Noble Rot…Ale???

noble rot dogfish headBeer’s gone wild!

With the growth of micro-breweries over the past thirty years and a diverse consumer base, brewers are on the lookout for new ideas, ingredients, and styles, and aren’t afraid to push the boundaries of what beer can be.  Beer has been flavored with fruit for centuries, so it doesn’t seem odd that brewers would turn to their cousins in viticulture to find Beer’s new frontier.

Dogfish Head Brewery in particular has built their reputation courageous experimental beer styles.  Based in Milton, Delaware; Dogfish Head was founded by Sam Calagione in 1995. Originally building their reputation with a series of increasingly hoppy India Pale Ales (IPA), the brewery has proven itself to be fearless when it comes to making beer.  They produce a wide variety of ales with an even wider variety of ingredients.    Even if one does not like a particular beer, it is undeniable that their products are always fascinating.

The brewery spent most of first decade of the 21st century re-creating “Ancient Ales,” ales based on the residues of beer-styled beverages found in archaeological sites around the world.  These included “Chateau Jiahu” a beer based on residue dating back to 7th century China and “Midas Touch Golden Elixi,r” a strong ale made with Muscat, honey, and saffron.  With ingredients and styles like this, it doesn’t seem surprising that Dogfish Head would look to wine for a new ideas.

Noble Rot Small LabelIn 2010, Dogfish Head began to collaborate with Alexandria Nicole Cellars, a winery located in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA in Washington.  The winery supplied botrytis-infected Viognier must which the brewers used to create their “Noble Rot” Ale.  The brewery ferments the must together with the malt, creating a dry, complex and unique ale. It pours a light golden color and has a conflicted aroma, at times one can easily discern the characteristics of Viognier – a slightly sweet and tart apple and a faint hint of honey.  You almost expect to experience the flavors associated with Sauternes, especially honey.  Instead, the beer is light, crisp, and dry.  It marries the light fruity, floral components of Viognier with the malt backbone and carbonation of an ale.  It’s only as the beer warms that one can detect a pleasant honeysuckle that recalls Sauternes.

As microbreweries grow and expand, and brewers continue to venture to find the next frontier, it makes sense to expect to see more beers influenced by wine.  From grape juice to wine barrels to yeasts, breweries will be able to incorporate different elements at different stages of production, further cementing America’s new tradition of fearless beer production.

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Post authored by Ben Coffelt  – bcoffelt@societyofwineeducators.org

Guest Post: Turbiana, is it Trebbiano…or not?

TurbianaToday we have a guest post from Wai Xin, a wine educator based in Singapore.  Xin brings us on a fascinating journey to get to the truth about Turbiana!

Modern DNA profiling ability has enabled researchers to name most grapes and their parentage. But for those who won’t be spending time on reports, they find the proof in the glass. While not always exact, some characteristics that run in the vine family can be tell-tale signs of its lineage, with slight variations attributed to vintage and geographical differences. But if you need a grape to stump someone, try Turbiana.

Sitting at a Zenato wine dinner three months ago, I overheard diners and their enthusiasm to taste the flagship wines – two vintages (2005 & 2006) of Sergio Zenato Riserva and a 2008 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. All rich and opulent, and should you have a case of the 2005 Sergio Zenato Riserva, it is certainly a good time to start exploring. But what really started the discussion among nearby wine specialists wasn’t the Amarone, they were two dry whites from Lugana.

Lugana is a small region south of Lake Garda, sitting near the border of Veneto and Lombardy. As often happens to a small region nestled between two large areas, it is often overlooked.

To try and figure out Lugana, I pulled my phone out from pocket and conjured my secret stash of wine resources. A Dropbox account containing handy resources such as maps, scholarly texts, and in this case, 521 official documents detailing all the approved Italian wine regions from IGT to DOCG.

“I vini a denominazione di origine controllata “Lugana” devono essere ottenuti dalle uve provenienti dal vitigno Trebbiano di Soave localmente denominato Turbiana o Trebbiano di Lugana.”

white wine tastingIn loosely translated essence, “Trebbiano di Soave, in local terms Turbiana or Trebbiano di Lugana.” Trebbiano and Soave sounded familiar enough to us. Done deal.

Or is it?

Two weeks after that dinner, on a friend’s insistence I met Fabio Zenato from Le Morette. “You must meet this man and his wines” my friend said, “I have never tried this variety before.”

At our meeting, an assortment of sparkling, dry, red and dry white wines were laid out on the table, and the word Lugana caught my eyes again. But instead of calling it a Trebbiano di Soave, Fabio addressed it with an alien name Turbiana. Tur. Interesting…

Very often Trebbiano, one of the most planted varieties in Italy, has its name appended with a region. Names like Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, Trebbiano di Soave, Trebbiano di Romagna and others are aplenty. The French call it Ugni Blanc, but even with that, it is still one of the many French synonyms.

In 2001, a group of researchers from University of Milan looked into the differences between these “Trebbiani” and other grape varieties that could be related. The result showed huge genetic differences suggesting that most Trebbiano, if related, must be cousins. Two grapes showed remarkable resemblance; Trebbiano di Soave and Verdicchio were 99% similar, while Turbiana differed slightly with Verdicchio at 97%.

Fabio supported the 2001 study. With this result, he can prove his claim since it had clearly demonstrated that Turbiana was significantly different from Trebbiano. I support his cause, and by calling it Trebbiano, it only misrepresents the Lugana native to a distant family. To get things right, Trebbiano di Lugana needs to be correctly known as Turbiana, and Trebbiano di Soave as Verdicchio.

lugana vineyardsIn Singapore, Lugana wines are almost non-existent with only a handful of merchants carrying one or two labels. The Zenato Luganas are available in Crystal Wines, while Monopole carries a Lugana from Tommasi owned Villa Giradi. Fabio’s visit to Singapore in October was to look for an importer. In December, his wines were showcased over a Veneto wine dinner, but as of today, I am not certain if anyone was confident to take up the distribution rights.

With my few experiences of Turbiana, it had came across being neutral and shapeable. While at other times, fully expressive of its fruits and minerals. Such unpredictability can make it difficult to handle, yet intriguing for some. The name change will do some good, but first it has to overcome the many obstacles ahead.

Tasting Notes: 

Zenato Lugana DOC San Benedetto 2012 – Hint of ripe tropical fruits showed initially and supported by a more melon-like aroma. While the palate was crisp and bone dry, the fruit flavors that showed on the finish was a welcoming touch. A simple wine but paired fine with fresh seafood.

Zenato Lugana Riserva “Sergio Zenato” 2007 – Having aged in oak barrels, tinge of smoky aroma overshadowed a neutral fruit. Palate had a light hint of residual sweetness and finished off with good roundness. Rather akin to a rich Chardonnay.

Le Morette Lugana DOC Mandolara – Youthfulness of the wine showed both in glass and palate. A gentle expression of fresh apple and flowers, the steel-like palate was driven by pronounced salty mineral touch that cut from beginning to finish.

Le Morette Lugana DOC Benedictus  Keeping the skin with the juice gave a nice straw gold tone and dense phenolic volume. Partially fermented in small oak barrels also imparted spicy note to the rich spectrum of aromas. If there’s a lack of description for the wine, one can say there’s a taste of grape flesh within.

Wai Xin, CSW, FWS is a wine communicator based in Singapore. He describes his journey to wine as follows – “I woke up one day and decided to throw my Java coding career out of the window for a lifetime of intoxication. Believing strongly that wine is for enjoyment and not a trading commodity, I encourage sensible, affordable drinking and the exploration of individual preferences.”

Wai Xin is the author of a blog entitled “Wine Xin- The Babbler”, as well as a contributing author for EnjoyWine.Sg and ChubbyHubby.Net (a food, family, and lifestyle blog). Xin may be reached at this.is@winexin.sg or via twitter @Winexin.

Note from Jane N:  What I find most interesting about Xin is his “98” score on the CSW – very impressive!!

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SWE Mini-Conference in St. Louis!

St. LouisFebruary 28th in St. Louis, MO: We will be having a free day of seminars that will take place at the Hyatt Regency St. Louis at the Arch located at 315 Chestnut Street, St. Louis, MO, 63102.  Sessions will begin at 1pm and will include:

A Snapshot of Classified Bordeaux – Presented by Paul Wagner:  Eight classified growth Bordeaux from the same vintage will clarify the remarkable difference in the seven appellations that are represented in this tasting.  It’s a chance to learn the language of Bordeaux, understand the nuances of its wines, and master the big picture of France’s most famous table wines.

The Secret Life of Pinot NoirPresented by Jane Nickles, CSS, CWE: Pinot Noir…it’s temperamental, it ripens too early, it has thin skin and it’s just plain complicated. It’s been called the heartbreak grape, and we’ve probably all been burned.  At the same time, the  delicious, haunting flavors of a good Pinot Noir – including include cherries, berries, smoke, spice, earthiness, brambles, truffles (and that’s just the beginning) – can inhabit your memory like a permanent smile. Join “Miss Jane” Nickles, CWE for a tasting of some excellent examples of this finicky wine and an exploration of the “secret life” of Pinot Noir.  

Blind TastingBlind Faith – Test Your Tasting SkillsPresented by Gary Spadafore CSS, CWE & Guy Stout CSS, CWE, MS:  Join Gary and Guy for a unique presentation that will sharpen your sensory evaluation skills. Do you feel lucky? Well, do you? Attendees will taste four white wines and four red wines and “vote” on their attributes. You will earn points for correct answers and then wager them if you want to increase your point total, all the while increasing your sensory evaluation skills. Prizes awarded for top performers.

Members can join us for an incredible day as we taste and learn about wines from around the world. To RSVP, please contact Ben Coffelt:
bcoffelt@societyofwineeducators.org .

This event is open and free to all current members of the SWE.

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Move over Big Gulp…Riedel’s in Town!

Riedel Coke CropAs I swirl my lovely Riedel glass, I detect hints of cinnamon, allspice, cherry, currant, and anise.  Could it be Côtes du Rhône, Oregon Pinot Noir, or perhaps Chianti?

Maybe for dinner…but for lunch today I am savoring Coca-Cola from the latest creation of Riedel, the renowed  Austrian glass company that made its name by creating the “perfect” wine glass for just about every wine type and variety imaginable.  (Their Zinfandel glass is,  in my opinion, the perfect all-around wine glass, as well as an object of subtle and timeless beauty.)

To create their signature Coca-Cola Riedal glass, the company has combined the style of the top of their Riedel-O Sauvignon Blanc glass with a slight curvature through the middle, a bit of a flare and a short, flat base.  It’s slightly reminiscent of a classic roadhouse “coke” bottle of years past. But this is serious stuff – if you believe in Riedel (and just about all the wine lovers I know truly do believe) you believe this glass will enhance the flavor and experience of your Coca-Cola.

Riedel Coca-Cola AdDon’t be tempted to cheat, however…the glassware comes with a stern warning.  It is not  designed for Diet Coke, and definitely will not work with Pepsi, Sprite, or Dr. Pepper.  I am determined, however, to see for myself how it works with a Rum & Coke. (I am sure George Riedel would approve.)

The Coca Cola+Riedel glass is available at retail for about $19 a glass or $29 for a set of two.

For more information, see the Riedel Website.

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Post authored by Jane A. Nickles, CWE – your SWE Blog Administrator – jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Onward to the Okanagan

Mission Hill Winery Overlooking Lake Okanagan

Mission Hill Winery
Overlooking Lake Okanagan

About 12,000 years ago, during the end an ice age, a cycle of flooding rushed through parts of Canada, Washington State, and Oregon.  These floods ran with the force equivalent to 60 Amazon Rivers and eroded large portions of rock and deposited high quality soil as far south as the Willamette Valley.  In British Columbia, these floods helped create the Okanagan Valley, one of the most dynamic wine regions in Canada.

The Okanagan Valley, located east of Vancouver, is a beautiful landscape filled with hills and lakes.  The region benefits from large deposits of fertile soils left behind by the ice sheets, dispersed over time by wind and water.  The area has a continental climate, moderated by Lake Okanagan.  The surrounding mountains help restrict rain, and the southern part of the valley, which borders the Sonora Desert, benefits from the desert’s warm, dry air.  All these factors work together to create a patchwork of unique microclimates capable of producing quality vinifera grapes.

Rocky Hills of the Okanagan Valley

Rocky Hills of the Okanagan Valley

Inhabited originally by the Okanagan Tribe; fur traders, miners, and missionaries moved into the region in the early 19th century.   The first vines were planted in 1859 at the Oblate Mission by Charles Pandosy and were used to produce sacramental wine.  Eventually, the region became known as a fruit growing region, especially once modern irrigation systems were introduced in the 1930s.  It was not until the 1970s that growers begin to experiment with vitis vinifera and the area was planted with small amounts of German varieties, such as Riesling, Ehrenfelser, and Scheurebe.

Since that time wine culture in the Okanagan Valley has expanded dramatically. In 1996 there were about 45 wineries.  Today, there are over 120, most of them family owned and operated.  The vineyards are not limited to a handful of varieties, but dozens.  The diversity of microclimates allows for almost any kind of grape to successfully grow.  Where one winery produces Syrah and Merlot wineries less than forty miles away are growing Pinot Noir or producing ice wines.

Mission Hill Winery

Mission Hill Winery

For now, most of the wine is sold primarily at the wineries with some distribution throughout BC.  This may soon change as regional associations and proponents attempt to ease Canadian laws on wine shipments and distribution.  Although the wines are not yet readily available in the USA or Europe, we have our fingers crossed that this may soon change.

For more information, see the Wines of British Columbia website.

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Post authored by Ben Coffelt  – bcoffelt@societyofwineeducators.org

It’s Official: Cabernet is King!

Photo:  www.adelaide.edu.au

Photo: www.adelaide.edu.au

If you are a Cabernet Sauvignon lover, rejoice! According to a new report issued today (January 6, 2014), Cabernet Sauvignon is now the most widely planted wine grape variety (by vineyard area) in the world.

This piece of news is actually the result of decades worth of research conducted by the University of Adelaide; funded by Australia’s Grape and Wine Research and Development  Corporation. 

The report, entitled “Which Winegrape Varieties are Grown Where:  A Global Empirical Picture,” is purported to be the first complete database of the world’s winegrape varieties, compiled using data from over 44 countries.

The database and its narrative, which has more information than most of us have ever even dreamed of, is available for free download, courtesy of the University of Adelaide:  just click here.

According to the report, the top ten wine grape varieties grown worldwide are currently:

  1. Cabernet Sauvignon
  2. Merlot
  3. Airén
  4. Tempranillo
  5. Chardonnay
  6. Syrah
  7. Garnacha Tinta
  8. Sauvignon Blanc
  9. Trebbiano Toscano
  10. Pinot Noir

Red Grapes 3.3Other interesting pieces of information include the top five winegrapes that have increased in vineyard volume over the past ten years, which are:  Tempranillo (#1), Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Chardonnay (#5).  Accordingly, the five grapes that have declined the most in vineyard volume are Airen at #1, followed by Mazuelo, Grasevina, Garnacha Tinta, and Trebbiano Toscano.

The report (all 670 pages of it) is a wealth of information – so much so that you should wait to download it until you have a large block of free time!

For More Information:  The University of Adelaide , Australia’s Grape and Wine Research and Development  Corporation

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Post authored by Jane A. Nickles, CWE – your SWE Blog Administrator – jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Is that Kona in your Coffee?

Hawaii Big IslandCoffee was first introduced to Hawaii in about 1813, via an ornamental coffee tree brought to Honolulu by Don Francisco de Paula y Marin, the Spanish physician to King Kamehameha the Great.  Soon, it became an agricultural mainstay of the islands, along with sugar cane and pineapple.

However, several circumstances combined to reduce the amount of coffee grown on the Hawaiian Islands, including the coffee blight of 1858, the result of an insect infestation; the world coffee crash in 1899, and the labor-intensity of coffee agriculture.

Of the small amount of land growing coffee in Hawaii today, the most famous region is Kona.  Located on the western slopes of the Big Island of Hawaii, the Kona district contains the heart of Hawaii’s “coffee belt,” which is about two miles wide and at the highest point measures 2,000 feet in elevation.  The area has a microclimate ideally suited to growing coffee, in part because the prominent volcanoes provide rich soil and help block the rains that fall prominently on the eastern side of the island.  The small size of the growing area and the high quality beans it produces contribute to a high price and a high demand.

Coffee on TreeThere are two types of Kona coffee, each with several grades.  Grades are determined by size, density, moisture content, and defects.  Type I grades are Extra-Fancy, Fancy, Kona #1, and Prime.  The grades for Type II are Kona #1 Peaberry and Kona Peaberry Prime.  The term “peaberry” refers to the shape of the bean.  Normally the fruit of the coffee plant contains two beans that develop with flattened facing sides, however, if only one of the two seeds is fertilized, the single seed develops into an oval (or pea-shaped) bean.  Kona is, along with Tanzanian Coffee, one of the two main types of coffee associated with peaberry beans.

These grades originated in the 1980s, when the word Kona was used on a wide variety of products.  In order to protect the region of origin and control the quality of the product, the Hawaii Department of Agricultural created the grades and required inspection of beans, proof of geographic region of origin, and proper labeling of its coffee.

Coffee labeled as Kona must be completely from the Kona District and include the identifier “100% Kona Coffee,” a phrase trademarked by the Hawaiian Department of Agriculture in 2000.  Kona Blends are allowed and may be a combination of Kona and beans from other regions, but must contain at least 10% Kona beans with the percentage of Kona beans clearly displayed.

As with other coffee regions, the producers and the state have had to be very protective over the Kona name and label, as some third-party companies were found to be labeling Central American coffee as Kona.  These mislabeled beans made it to coffee-store chains such as Starbucks and Peet’s, who upon learning of the issue contributed to a settlement and agreed to buy future beans directly from Kona farmers.

If this story sounds similar to those you have heard regarding wine, brandies, types of cheese and other agricultural products, you are correct!

If you would like to learn more about coffee, you may be interested in SWE’s Beverage Specialist Certificate program, which in addition to coffee, includes information on wine, beer, spirits, sake, tea, bottled water, and ready-to-drink beverages.

 

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Post authored by Ben Coffelt  – bcoffelt@societyofwineeducators.org