Dispatch from the Lessini Mountains (and the Monti Lessini DOC)

Rural landscape on the hills near Riolo Terme and BrisighellaThe Lessini Mountains (Monti Lessini)—located in Italy’s Veneto, tucked between the cities of Verona (to the south) and Vicenza to the east—are the southernmost mountain group of the Eastern Alps. This hilly area stretches out in a fan-like shape along the east shores of the Adige River just as the river heads out of the higher Alps and takes an eastward turn towards its mouth on the Adriatic Sea. The northern portion of the mountain range encompasses the wild and rugged Parco Naturale Regionale della Lessinia (Lessinia Regional Nature Park).

From a wine-lover’s perspective, the Lessini Mountains are home to the Moni Lessini and Lessini Durella DOCs and located just to the north/northeast of the Valpolicella and Soave appellations. The region also has some news for wine lovers, as there has been a bit of re-shuffling of the rules.

Here are the details: the Monti Lessini DOC has recently (as of May 2023) been updated to include quality sparkling wines (vino spumante di qualità) in addition to its previous line-up of still wines. This move is a bit more complicated than it sounds, as sparkling wines have been produced in the region for a while and were previously allowed under appellation rules before being spun-off in a separate appellation (Lessini Durello DOC) in 2011. With this new revision, they are allowed back in the Monti Lessini DOC, while they remain a product of the Lessini Durello DOC.

Relief map of Veneto_Page_2There are a few subtle differences between the two sparkling wine appellations. For one, the Monti Lessini DOC is approved only for quality sparkling wines made using the traditional production method; wines of the Lessini Durello DOC may be traditional method or Charmat (bulk method). There is also a difference in the minimum alcohol…Monti Lessini DOC requires 11.5% minimum abv; the minimum for the Lessini Durello wines is 11%.

  • The newly-approved quality sparkling wines of the Monti Lessini DOC must all be made using the traditional production method—meaning the second fermentation and lees aging must occur in the same bottle the wine is sold in. All of the sparkling wines of the appellation must be produced using a minimum of 85% Durella grapes; the remaining 15% may comprise Garganega, Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay, or Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir) as secondary varieties. A range of sweetness (from dry [zero dosage or pas dosé] to demi-sec [semi-sweet, 30 to 50 g/L of residual sugar]). Within these parameters, three styles of sparkling wine may be produced:
    • Monti Lessini Spumante—these wines are described as having “fine, persistent foam;” straw-yellow color; and a slight hint of yeast-derived aromas.
    • Monti Lessini Spumante Riserva—these wines are described as having “intense, fine bubbles;” color ranging from straw-yellow to gold, and intense, complex aromas as derived from extended yeast aging.
    • Monte Lessini Crémant—these wines are described as having “fine, creamy bubbles” and will typically show yellow-gold colors and intense aromas derived from extended yeast aging.
  • The Monti Lessini DOC continues to allow for the production of a range of still (non-sparkling) styles of wine, including the following:
    • Monti Lessini Bianco (minimum 50% Chardonnay, the remainder may comprise Chardonnay or any combination of Durella, Garganega, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, or Pinot Noir (vinified as a white wine)
    • Monti Lessini Durello (min. 85% Durella)
    • Monti Lessini Pinot Nero (min. 85% Pinot Nero [Pinot Noir])
    • Monti Lessini Passito (min, 85% Durella; grapes must be dried for a minimum of two months prior to vinification)

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

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