Search Results for: agave

Conference Preview: Agave Intensive…No, Really!

Agave arthurToday we have a conference preview from Arthur Black. Arthur tells us about his session entitled “Agave Intensive – No, Really!” Read on to see what this session has in store…

Do not overlook the often-abused word, “Intensive” in the title of this seminar. Those unfamiliar with agave-based spirits are welcome to come play with us, as Agave Intensive is comprehensive and builds upon itself, but the material covered is hard core and the spirits tasted are serious, amazing, beautiful and some of the most “spiritual” spirits on the planet.

Imagine walking through an orchard in the highlands of Oaxaca at 8,000 feet elevation with a palenquero who points towards a Sierra Negra sub-species of agave and tells you that his grand father planted it over 35 years ago and he has walked past it everyday of his life and in two weeks time he will harvest, cook, ferment and distill it. Yeah, welcome to the world of artisanal mezcal and “other” agave-based spirits.

Most spirit aficionados and even trade persons have never had the pleasure nor are they familiar with mezcals based on the agave species Tobala or Cuixe, nor those which have been percolated through dead animals and distilled in amphora, nor know the likes of the obscure Mexican distillates Sotol, Bacanora and Raicilla. To experience such spirits is a rare trip into oddity, beauty and meditation. For many reasons, which will be covered in this Agave Intensive discussion, these works of art are the world’s most laboriously crafted and transcendent spirits in the world.

agave arthur 2Outside of its manifestation as spirit, the agave plant alone is fascinating enough. Its entrenched in the mores of Central American-Mexican culture with no shortage of myth, lore and cultural utility. The agave plant is simultaneously the source of the Americas’ first fermented beverage and first distilled beverage. These sharp, monocarpic, pointy plants can grow to be larger than a small car and some species can take decades to mature. One mezcalero once told me, “these ancient plants are what the dinosaurs ate!”

In this seminar, we will taste mezcal from Michoacan and Oaxaca, made from Cuixe (which grows three meters tall), Tobala, Mexicano and Espadin, as well as mezcal de ollo from one palenquero outside of Sola de Vega. Of course, you can’t have an agave discussion without tasting pechuga! We will taste and discuss the Dasylirion based Sotol from Chihuahua,   in addition to Espadin based Bacanora from Sonora.

Arthur Black is one of few young beverage industry educational leaders in the country, acquiring many titles and accreditations over 15 years of intense study. Arthur is the Corporate Wine and Spirits Sales Manager for RNDC, a leading national wholesaler of fine wine and spirits. In addition to his role at RNDC, Arthur is a Certified Specialist of Wine, a Certified Spanish Wine Educator, a Certified French Wine Educator, a Certified Sake Specialist, Certified Spirits Specialist, Advanced Sommelier, and Level 1 Cicerone. Arthur is also the founder of the non-profit, Indiana Craft Beverage Association, an educational and promotional body dedicated to driving quality beverage programming in trade in Indiana and the Mid-West.

Arthur’s session, “Agave Intensive – No, Really!” will be held on Thursday morning, August 13th as part of SWE’s 39th Annual Conference, to be held in New Orleans.

 

 

 

 

SWE’s Virtual Conference Agenda 2024

Save the Date Virtual Conf 2024It’s here! SWE is pleased to announce the agenda for our 2024 Virtual Conference—an online event scheduled for Friday, April 26 and Saturday, April 27 (2024). We have two full days of conference programming for you—with one day (Friday) dedicated to wine and one day (Saturday) dedicated to spirits. These events are based around live, interactive webinars created by our highest-rated and most accomplished conference presenters. These sessions are offered free-of-charge to all members of SWE, and you are welcome to attend as many (or as few) sessions as you like. To secure your spot, please contact Danielle LaRosa of the SWE Home Office at dlarosa@societyofwineeducators.org

Click here to download a pdf of SWE Virtual Conference 2024 – Taste Along Beverage Suggestions These products may be purchased locally and tasted along with the live webinars. Keep in mind, however, that these webinars will be fun and meaningful whether you choose to taste-along or not.

  • Friday, April 26 (all times central)
    • 10:00 am (central time): Unknown Rhône, presented by Jane A. Nickles, CSE, CWE, MBA. From the sands of the Camargue to the méthode ancestrale sparkling wines of the Clairette de Die AOC, this session will focus on some of the fascinating obscurities to be found in France’s Rhône Valley. Topics will include wine, food, grapes, places, a bit of history, and a museum of chocolate!
    • 12:00 noon (central time): Franciacorta Unveiled—A Journey through Italy’s Prestigious Sparkling Wine Region. At the heart of Franciacorta lies a commitment to excellence and an unwavering dedication to producing world-class sparkling wines. Join May Matta-Aliah—DipWSET, CWE, and US Educator for Franciacorta—as she takes us on a tour to this hidden gem nestled amidst gentle hills and moderated by lake breezes. Marrying time-honored techniques and modern innovation, winemakers in Franciacorta craft wines of elegance, depth, and complexity. The seminar will explore the diverse styles of Franciacorta, from the refreshing Brut to the silky Satèn, and from the vibrant hues of Rosé to the range of single vintage wines.
    • 2:00 pm (central time): The Art of Blending—A Winemaker’s Touch. Join us for an exclusive exploration into the world of winemaking with Elizabeth Kester, the esteemed Winemaker and Director of Winemaking from Wente Vineyards. In this presentation, Elizabeth will unveil the secrets behind the art of blending, offering insights into the meticulous process that transforms grapes into extraordinary wines. With over 15 years of experience, Elizabeth will share how she balances science and intuition to make award-winning wines. Even if a wine is varietally labeled, most have some amount of blending. Why do winemakers blend, and how do they do it? Learn more during this captivating webinar from the expert herself. Whether you’re a wine connoisseur or an aspiring enthusiast, this event promises an enriching experience, shedding light on the craftsmanship behind some of the world’s finest wines.
    • 4:00 pm (central time): Malbec Argentino, a History of Success. Located in wide valleys and on sloping plains, the wine regions of Argentina form a strip at the foot of the Andes Mountain range that extends from north to south, latitudes 23 ° to 45 °. In recent years, restless producers have pushed the wine frontier—to the west, into the heights, and towards the south and east—looking for the cooler temperatures of the southern latitudes or the influence of the ocean. From the high-altitude vineyards in the North, down through the aridity of Cuyo and the plains of Patagonia, to the new projects on the edge of the Atlantic, Argentine wines offer an endless range of flavors that reflect the identity of each region. Join Veronica Kathuria on a trip through the diversity of Argentina, as each region prints a distinctive character and profile on its grapes… especially as experienced by Malbec.
  • Saturday, April 27 (2204)
    • 10:00 am (central time): German Grown—A look at the spirits of Germany, presented by Ben Coffelt, CSS, CSW. While Italian and French products seem to dominate the conversation, Germany also makes some significant contributions to the world of spirits. In this session, we will review some of the bitters, spirits, and apéritifs  produced in Germany. While discussing the history, production, and uses of spirits that are German Grown, we’ll get to know Kirschwasser, Himbeergeist, Steinhäger, Underberg, and even the much maligned (but still beloved) Jäegermeister.
    • 12:00 noon (central time): The Four Great Brandies of France. A review of French Eau-de-Vie, Cognac, Armagnac, and Calvados presented by Hoke Harden, CSE
    • 2:00 pm (central time): Tequila Additives—A Big Deal? Presented by Hugh Lander, CSS. Learn why the industry is buzzing about additive-free Tequila. 20 years ago, Tequila began its move into premiumization as 100% Blue Agave brands replaced the lower quality mixto formulations.  Today, with over 2,000 brands in the market, Tequila is differentiating itself based on the use of additives.  In this presentation you will learn about why some distillers use additives, what additives are allowed, and what the future of Tequila regulation might look like.
    • 4:00 pm (central time): Smoke Signals—Peat and its Influence on Whisky. Presented by Gary Pickard, CSE. This session will dive into the world of smoky flavors. We will break down the mystery behind peat and the flavor compounds contained therein, how it is utilized and measured within whisky production, discuss the long-term environmental effects of peat reliance, and take a look at some products on the market affectionately known as Smoke Monsters. 

 

(More) New Rules Adopted for US Spirits

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Subtitle: and now we know what grains are!

On February 9 (2022), the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) of the United States published a(nother) final rule regarding the modernization of the labeling and advertising regulations for wine, distilled spirits, and malt beverages. This new ruling clarifies and expands upon some of the changes that were initially made in “phase 1” of the rule, issued back in April of 2020.

While dedicated students of distilled spirits (and malt beverages) might want to read the entirety of the rule, here are a few of the more significant updates:

  • The definition of “grains” as used in the production whisky/whiskey and other grain spirits has (at long last) been finalized. Now, we can easily point to the official TTB definition of grains, and it reads as follows:  Grains—Includes cereal grains and the seeds of the pseudo-cereals amaranth, buckwheat, and quinoa.
    • For the laypeople among us, the dictionary definition of “grain” typically reads as follows: Any grass cultivated for the edible components of its grain (composed of the endosperm, germ, and bran). The most widely cultivated grains in the world include wheat, barley, oats, rye, millet, corn (maize), triticale (a hybrid of wheat and rye), rice, and sorghum.
  • Removing some restrictions on the use of pictures of the American flag on product labels
  • Revising the production category (Standard of Identity) for “Distilled Spirits—Specialty Products.” This is a category that allows those spirits that fall outside of the other (more specifically defined) categories to be legally labeled and distributed. The type of spirits that will utilize this category are typically those that include additives (caramel coloring, sugar, flavoring, etc.) that are not allowed under a more specific classification. These specialty spirits are allowed to use “distinctive or fanciful names.”
    • For the record, the Standards of Identity now include 13 spirit categories, as follows: Neutral Spirits (includes vodka), Whisky, Gin, Brandy, Blended Applejack, Rum, Agave Sprits, Absinthe, Cordials & Liqueurs, Flavored Sprits, Imitation Spirits, Diluted Spirits, and Distilled Spirits—Specialty Products.

P.S. Heads up, wine lovers! The “small print” of this press relates includes the following statement: “This final rule reorganizes parts 5 (distilled spirits) and 7 (malt beverages) of the regulations, as proposed in the NPRM.  We plan to publish a revised part 4 (wine) in the future.”

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

New Rules Adopted for US Wine, Beer, and Spirits

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At long last, the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) of the United States  has finalized a new set of rules, known as the “Modernization of the Labeling and Advertising Regulations for Wine, Distilled Spirits, and Malt Beverages.” This rule was published today (April 1, 2020) and goes into effect on May 3. The original proposal was first announced in November of 2018 and has gone through several rounds of (often cantankerous) public comment and debate.

One of the most debated (and certainly most controversial) parts of the proposed new regulations sought to limit the definition of oak barrels (as used in the aging of distilled spirits) to only include cylindrical drums of approximately 50 gallons. During the public comment periods, the TTB received nearly 700 comments on this issue, almost all of which expressed opposition. The proposal was seen to limit the creativity of distillers that prefer to use smaller—or differently-shaped—barrels and to incur a financial barrier to entry as well. The good news is that this part of the proposal was NOT adopted into the final rule.

The majority of the new rules apply to the production, process of label approvals, importation, and distribution of alcoholic beverages. However, there are many parts of the new rules that are of interest to wine and spirits professionals as well as enthusiasts. Some of these changes are discussed below.

Vodka: The definition of vodka has been updated to read as follows: “Vodka” is neutral spirits which may be treated with up to two grams per liter of sugar and up to one gram per liter of citric acid. Products to be labeled as vodka may not be aged or stored in wood barrels at any time except when stored in paraffin-lined wood barrels and labeled as bottled in bond. (The requirement for US vodka to be “without distinctive character, aroma, taste, or color” will be rescinded.)

Agave Spirits: Agave Spirits (as a class of products) have been defined (for the first time in the US). The new definition reads as follows: “Agave spirits” are distilled from a fermented mash, of which at least 51 percent is derived from plant species in the genus Agave and up to 49 percent is derived from other sugars. Agave spirits must be distilled at less than 95 percent alcohol by volume (190° proof) and bottled at or above 40 percent alcohol by volume (80° proof). Tequila and Mezcal are specifically defined as products of Mexico, made in compliance with the laws and regulations of Mexico.

Triple-distilled(?): Tighter restrictions on claims of the “number of times distilled” were implemented. According to the new rules, a distillation means a single run through a pot still or a single run through a column of a column still. Previously, some distillers claimed one “distillation run” for each plate found in a column still (as in “distilled one hundred times!”).

The document outlining these new rules is several hundred pages in length, but if you have the time and the fortitude, check it out for yourself here.

References/for more information:

We’ll be keeping an eye on the news concerning these new laws as they develop!!

“For everything good, Mezcal…for everything bad, the same”

Agave Americana

Agave Americana

Oaxacans love their mezcal, as they should. A popular saying in the region is “para todo mal, mezcal, y para todo bien también” (“For everything bad, mezcal; for everything good, the same”)

The production of products bottled as mezcal is centered around the state of Oaxaca. The state of Oaxaca is a prime growing area for the preferred base material for mezcal – a variety of agave known as agave americana, often referred to as maguey. In addition to maguey, twenty-eight other varieties of agave may be used in the production of mezcal, with the most common being agave potatorum and agave salmiana.

Mezcal derives its name from a Nahuatl Indian word, mexcalmetl, which loosely translates as “agave plant.” Mezcal often has a “smokier” or “earthier” aroma than tequila, in part because of the varieties of agave used, but also because of the tradition of cooking the piñas in earth-covered pits. Grinding methods vary, and mezcal producers commonly use agave fibers in the fermentation must to add character.

Santo Domingo Church in Oaxaca

Santo Domingo Church in Oaxaca

While most mezcals are produced using 100% agave, the distiller may also add various fruits and herbs to the must during the fermentation process. Thus, mezcal is produced in an almost infinite number of local variations. Mezcal may be labeled reposado or añejo, depending on the length of time it spends in cask, but many are bottled without cask aging. There is also a variant of mezcal called mezcal de olla. In this type, the must is distilled in a clay pot, called an olla, with a vapor-condensing coil attached to the cover.

While many people think they have bought or seen a bottle of tequila with a worm in it, they are mistaken, as the “worm in the bottle” is instead found only in some variations of mezcal, specifically those produced in the state of Oaxaca. The origin of the worm in the bottle is considered an old-fashioned way of certifying the strength of alcohol: if the worm decayed there was too little alcohol to preserve it; if the worm stayed intact there was sufficient alcohol for drinking.

The mezcal worm is actually the larva of one of the two moths that live on the agave plant. There are two types of worms: the red, gusano rojo, which thrives in the root of the plant, and the white or gold, gusano de oro, which is found on the leaves. Today, the worms are bred commercially for inclusion in mezcal. Although the worm is used as a marketing strategy, top-quality mezcal is generally not bottled with a worm.

A shot of mezcal with sal de gusano

A shot of mezcal with sal de gusano

The traditional way to drink mezcal is straight, sipped slowly and savored. Mezcal is sometimes accompanied by orange slices and “sal de gusano,” a Oaxacan salt blended with the ground larva of those famous gusano (worms). While it is difficult (and somewhat risky) to generalize about such things, the following flavors are often detected in mezcal: light smoke, nutty, caramel/brown sugar, floral, citrus, pumpkin, tropical fruit, dried fruit, green vegetal/celery, leathery/earthy.

As with many traditional beverages, mezcal has become part of the “craft cocktail culture,” and modern bartenders are creating smoky-yet-refreshing cocktail recipes using mezcal. Click here for a recipe, created by Scott Baird of Comal in Berkeley. Called The Palomaesque, this mezcal-based version of the classic Mexican cocktail, The Paloma, uses mezcal, grapefruit juice, lime juice, honey, and Cocchi Americano. Having just tried it myself, I can guarantee that it is delicious!