Conference Preview: Noble Nebbiolo

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Today we have a conference preview from Alan Tardi. In this post, Alan tells us about his upcoming session on Nebbiolo-based wines entitled “Noble Nebbiolo.” He even gives us a sneak peak at the amazing wines that will be served. Alan’s session is offered as part SWE’s 43rd Annual Conference, to be held August 14 –  16 in Washington DC.

In Vino Nobils?

While it is often challenging to articulate wine in words, the term ‘noble’ is a particularly loaded one, partly because it is used in so many different contexts.

To begin with, there are categoric uses of the word. “Noble Grapes” refers to a group of varieties that have achieved prominence throughout the world, but membership in this elite group is somewhat subjective, ranging from six—Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Merlot—to 18 or more. What’s more, it is unclear who first created this group or why the most popular, most adaptable, most widely dispersed, commercially viable and therefore most common grape varieties of all should qualify them as noble.

In Alsace, noble status has been officially conferred on four specific varieties: Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris and Muscat. Only these grapes can be used for Grand Cru or Sélections de Grains Nobles categories, while a wine labeled Gentil must be made up of at least 50% of them.

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There are also literal associations. The phrase “King of wines and wine of Kings” has been applied to a number of wines throughout history (Barolo and Champagne, for example) both because members of the nobility took a particular liking to them and because they were produced on estates belonging to members of the noble class. At the end of his dithyrambic poem “Bacco in Toscana” published in 1685, author Francesco Rambi declares “Montepulciano is the King of all wines!” after which it became known as Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. And Louis the XV, King of France, is said to have offered his official chief mistress Madame Pompadour a glass of Tokaji calling it “Vinum Regum, Rex Vinorum” (Wine of Kings and King of Wines).

Finally, the term is often used in a descriptive sense. Wine writers and tasters sometimes use noble as an adjective to describe the character of a grape variety or a wine made from it, as I am doing by calling my session at the 43rd annual conference of the Society of Wine Educators “Noble Nebbiolo.”

But what does it actually mean? Or, to put it another way, what are the characteristics of a grape variety or the wine made from it that could justifiably be described as noble?

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Before going any further, let me clarify that my session will focus on one grape variety, Nebbiolo, and feature wines in a range of typologies from the principal appellations and diverse terroirs of the three regions of northern Italy—Piemonte, Lombardia and Valle d’Aosta—that constitute its traditional home.

Just as noble people, actions or sentiments are not all the same, it is perfectly reasonable to expect that a given grape variety would express its inherent noble qualities in different ways, and that even members of the same clan or dynasty (or grape variety, in this case) would over time develop different characteristics based on the location of their domain.

So, what basic “noble” characteristics can be attributed to the Nebbiolo grapevine itself? It is a late-ripening grape which means that it often reaches maturity in mid- to late fall, long after most others have been harvested, when the days get short, the nights get cold and fog (‘nebbia’ in Italian) covers the vineyards, all of which one might say contributes austerity, restraint and a haughty aloofness to its regal character. Winegrowers must often wait with patient deference for the grapes to ripen and for a slow fermentation to run its course, and consumers must often wait for Nebbiolo-based wines to open up and show what they really have to offer.

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Nebbiolo-based wines generally have pronounced natural tannin, notable acidity, a pale transparent color, and a surprising capacity to age and develop over time, acquiring layers of complexity as it matures.

Sometimes (as participants will see during the class) grapes from young vines or less favorable sites can be harvested a bit early to retain their crisp acidity and tart fruit and be made into a rosato or sparkling wine. In such cases the ‘noble’ lineage of the grape takes the shape of a frolicking prince or princess. But the most noble expressions of Nebbiolo tend to come from older vines harvested at peak maturity in exceptional vineyard sites with low yields, slow long fermentation and extended aging.

Finally, and contrary to membership requirements of the Noble Grapes Club, Nebbiolo is extremely selective about where it will sink its roots and reign. With the exception of some sporadic New World experiments and one isolated southern outpost, Nebbiolo grows only in specific areas of northern Italy. And this high degree of selectivity about where it will (and will not) grow seems to suggest a sort of noble birthright. But wherever it does grow, Nebbiolo demonstrates an astounding ability to express nuances of the particular environment and a particular growing season, and then transfer these factors into the wines it produces, which most always occupies top billing on the roster of wines in that area. In this sense, Nebbiolo wines are truly a noble representative of the place that they come from.

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Of course, when it comes to wine, we can talk about it all we like, but the best spokesperson for a grape variety are the wines that are made from it. In order to ‘hear’ what they have to say you need to taste them. And that is precisely what we will do in this “Noble Nebbiolo” session.

We have a stellar lineup of 100% Nebbiolo wines in a variety of typologies (traditional method sparkling, rosato, appassimento) from all of the principal growing areas and appellations including Lombardia (Valtellina), Valle d’Aosta (Donnas), Alto Piemonte (Ghemme, Gattinara, Carema), Langhe (Barolo) and Roero.

While exploring these extremely diverse expressions of Nebbiolo based on growing area, vintage and winemaking practice, we will also look for common threads—for the fundamental inherent character of the grapevine—that run between them. And at the end we may even try to determine whether, in fact, the descriptor “noble” is an appropriate one.

You can’t have a wine tasting without wines, so here’s a big shout out of gratitude to the great producers and importers that made these exceptional examples of Nebbiolo available for my presentation at the Society of Wine Educators conference 2019:

Wineries:

Importers:

Alan’s session, “Noble Nebbiolo” will be held on Friday, August 16 at 1:15 pm as part of the Society of Wine Educator’s 43rd Annual Conference, to be held in Washington DC.

Are you a conference speaker that would like to share a preview of your session? Contact Jane A. Nickles at jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

News from Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine: Four New Sub-zones Approved

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On Wednesday, June 19, 2019 France’s Institut National de l’origine et de la Qualité (INAO) approved a revision of the Cahier des Charges of the Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine AOC and in doing so, approved four new sub-zones for the appellation. These geographical indications are sometimes referred to as Crus, or Crus Communaux (cru communal zones).

This new announcement means that the appellation now contains seven sub-zones including Clisson, Gorges, and Le Pallet (approved in 2011). These seven sub-zones represent the highest-quality wines (and very limited production) from the large and Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine appellation.

The Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine AOC is located in the Pays Nantais area of France’s Loire Valley, and is known for still (non-sparkling) white wines produced using 100% Melon de Bourgogne grapes. Much of the production is produced in the sur lie style, requiring that the wine be aged on the lees (expired yeast cells) until at least March 1 of the year following the harvest. (A sub-zone designation typically requires longer minimum sure lie aging times as well as other specific standards required for qualification.)

Map of Muscadet via: https://www.vinsvaldeloire.fr/en

Map of Muscadet via: https://www.vinsvaldeloire.fr/en

The new sub-zones are as follows:

Goulaine: Goulaine is the northernmost as well as the largest of the seven crus of Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine AOC. This area is dominated by a series of small hills overlooking the Marais de Goulaine (a swampy area known as the Marsh of Goulaine). Top soils are coarse and sandy; subsoils are mainly metamorphic (gneiss and schist). Vines in the Goulaine sub-zone tend to have early bud break and are often the first vines in the area to be ready for harvest.

Château-Thébaud: The Château-Thébaud sub-zone is located in the southwest portion of the Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine AOC, just to the north of Clisson. The area consists mainly of hills and hillsides, some of them steep and wooded. Many of the finest vineyard sites are located near the Maine River as it flows through this area in a north/northwest direction. Soils are mainly sandy/stony atop granite and gneiss.

Detail of the map of Muscadet via: https://www.vinsvaldeloire.fr/en

Detail of the map of Muscadet via: https://www.vinsvaldeloire.fr/en

Monnières-Saint-Fiacre: The Monnières-Saint-Fiacre cru—also located just to the north of the Clisson subzone—lies just to the east of Château-Thébaud. The vineyards are planted on a succession of hillsides spread over eastern bank of the River Sèvre, extending into the surrounding valleys and woods. The soils consist primarily of sandy loam over a subsoil of gneiss and some clay.

Mouzillon-Tillières: Mouzillon-Tillières is located to the north of the River Sèvre, to the north/northeast of the Gorges sub-zone. It is centered around the Sanguèze River (a 44km-/27 mile-long tributary of the Loire).  The vines are planted on a series of small hillsides and outcrops along both the sides of the river. The soils are mainly composed of sand and clay over gabbro bedrock (gabbro is an igneous rock created by the slow, underground cooling of magma).

Keep those flashcards handy: According to the website of Loire Valley Wines (Vins de Val de Loire), three more areas— La Haye-Fouassière and Vallet (in Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine), as well as Champtoceaux (located within the Muscadet Coteaux de la Loire AOC)—are being considered for sub-zone status.

Please note that while you will be able to see these subzones on wine labels beginning with the 2018 harvest, the new-and-improved Cahier des Charges for the Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine AOC (as linked below) will still need to wind its way through the EU registration process.

Click here for more information on Muscadet (note the details on the Clisson, Gorges, and Le Pallet sub-zones near the bottom of the page).

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

References/for more information:

Modern Vodka for Canada: Canada Updates its 60-year-old Vodka Standards

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Effective today (June 26, 2019), the government of Canada has updated its labeling laws for vodka. This is the first change in the country’s laws regarding vodka since 1959. The change was announced via publication in the Canada Gazette, Part II, Volume 153, Number 13.

These new laws—as set forth in the Food and Drug Regulations of Canada—include the following standards:

  • Canadian vodka may be produced from cereal grains, potatoes, or other agricultural products such as fruit, dairy products, or honey
  • If produced from a base ingredient other than potatoes or grains, it must be stated on the label using terminology such as “vodka produced from grapes” or a phrase such as “produced from apples” in close proximity to the term “Vodka” on the label
  • Canadian vodka should be rendered neutral (without distinctive character, aroma, or taste) during its production process, which may include (but does not require) charcoal filtration.

These new standards are an update of the previous laws, which permitted Canadian Vodka to be produced using potatoes or cereal grains only, and required that all Canadian vodka undergo charcoal-filtration.

It is expected that these new laws will encourage innovation in the Canadian distilling industry while facilitating international trade.

Sounds like today is a great day to taste-test some Canadian vodka! May I recommend Crystal Head Vodka (Dan Aykroyd will thank you), Iceberg Vodka, or perhaps a dry martini made with Polar Ice?

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

References/for more information:

 

Castilla-La Mancha (and Spanish Wine) has a Very Good Day: Three New Vinos de Pago approved!

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The estate wines of Spain hare having a good week! Last Wednesday (June 12, 2019) the EU approved three new Vinos de Pago as protected designation of origin/PDO wines of Spain.

All three of these newly-registered Pagos are located in the comunidad autónoma of Castilla-La Mancha—making a total of 11 Pagos (out of Spain’s new current total of 18) located within the region. According to the fresh-off-the-presses documentation, the details concerning these PDOs include the following:

Vino de Pago Vallegarcía

  • Location: Specified parcels in the municipality of Retuerta del Bullaque (Ciudad Real); located within the VdlT Castilla; the area is close to and influenced by the Bullaque River; soils of the region are known for high acidity/low pH
  • Allowed grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Viognier
  • Types/styles of wine:
    • Viognier: Both stainless steel and French oak barrels are used for fermentation; wine is lees aged for a minimum of 6 months
    • Red˜single-variety and blends: Both stainless steel and French oak barrels are used for fermentation; maceration lasts for 7 to 28 days; oak and barrel aging are utilized but minimum aging time is not specified
  • Other notes: The use of pre-fermentation maceration (cold soak) is common; must and wines are gravity-fed through much of the production process; both red and white wines are known for their herbal aromas (described in the white wines as white flowers, lavender, and rosemary and in the red wines as Mediterranean scrub and lavender)
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Vino de Pago La Jaraba

  • Location: Specified parcels in the municipality of El Provencio (Cuenca); within the confines of the existing La Mancha DO; the area has almost no hills and sits at a consistent elevation of 700 meters (2,300 ft) above sea-level; vineyards are surrounded by oak and pine forests
  • Allowed grape varieties: Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Graciano
  • Types/styles of wine:
    • Red blend of Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Graciano; aged in oak barrels for at least 9 months followed by aging in the bottle for at least 9 months
    • Red blend of Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot; aged in oak barrels for at least 6 months followed by aging in the bottle for at least 6 months
    • Varietal Merlot (red): 100% Merlot, aged in oak barrels for at least 6 months followed by aging in the bottle for at least 6 months
  • Other Notes: Wine may be fermented in stainless or French oak; fermentation process is initiated via the “grapes’ own microbial flora”
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Vino de Pago Los Cerrillos

  • Location: Specified parcels in the municipality of Argamasilla de Alba (Ciudad Real); the area is locally referred to as the “Vega Alta” section of the Guadiana River
  • Allowed grape varieties: Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah
  • Types/styles of wine:
    • Varietal Tempranillo (red); 100% Tempranillo, aged in oak for at least 30 days
    • Varietal Syrah (red); 100% Syrah, aged in oak for at least 6 months
    • Red blend of Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon; aged in oak for at least 6 months
    • “Private Collection” red blend of Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon; aged in oak for at least 13 months
    • “Cabernet Sauvignon de Familia” (Family Reserve Cabernet); 100 % Cabernet Sauvignon; aged in oak for at least 24 months followed by at least 18 months of bottle aging
  • Other notes: Grapes are harvested between 5 o’clock and 11 o’clock in the morning; wine is fermented in stainless steel; délestage (rack-and-return) is used throughout the fermentation process; wine is not pressed but is clarified via racking

Welcome to the world, Vino de Pago Vallegarcía, Vino de Pago La Jaraba, and Vino de Pago Los Cerrillos!

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

References/for more information:

Nizza DOCG: Official at Last!

Photo via: https://ec.europa.eu/info/food-farming-fisheries

Photo via: https://ec.europa.eu/info/food-farming-fisheries

Nearly five years after its approval by Italy’s Ministry of Agriculture and its original application to the EU, the Nizza DOCG is signed, sealed, and delivered…and has received its final approval and registration as an EU-protected designation of origin (PDO) product for its Barbera-based red wines.

Click here to view the announcement in the June 12, 2019 edition of the Official Journal of the European Union.

We’ve been enjoying the deep red wines of the Nizza DOCG (produced in Piedmont, Italy) for several years now, but as a reminder, here are the rules and regulations for Nizza DOCG wines:

  • The place: All grapes must be grown within a delineated geographic zone, which was an already-established subzone of the Barbera d’Asti DOCG. The allowed communes of production include Agliano Terme, Belveglio, Calamandrana, Castel Boglione, Castelnuovo Belbo, Castelnuovo Calcea, Castel Rocchero, Cortiglione, Incisa Scapaccino, Mombaruzzo, Mombercelli, Nizza Monferrato, Vaglio Serra, Vinchio, Bruno, Rocchetta Palafea, Moasca, and San Marzano Oliveto.
  • The vines: Every vineyard destined for the Nizza DOCG must be registered with the Consortium and tout particular soils and exposures.  Vines must be entirely estate, planted on the slopes of hills facing south-east to south-west.
  • The harvest: Harvest must be done entirely by hand.
  • The grapes: 100% Barbera
  • Alcohol: Minimum 13% abv
  • Aging: Total minimum aging is 18 months from January 1 of the year following harvest. Total aging time must include at least 6 months in oak.
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In addition, all wine bearing the “Nizza DOCG” designation must meet the standards set forth by the consortium for organoleptic properties and laboratory analysis. If a wine does not meet with the consortium’s approval, it may be de-classified and bear the title of Barbera d’Asti DOCG, Monferrato Rosso DOC, Piemonte Barbera DOC, or Piemonte Rosso DOC (assuming, of course, that the wine meets the standards of the individual appellation). Interestingly enough, one facet of the consortium’s laboratory analysis is a  minimum requirement of 26 g/L “dry extract.”

Welcome to the world, Nizza DOCG—or perhaps we should say “Congratulations on your promotion, Nizza DOCG!” Either way, it’s great to see Nizza get the respect it deserves!

P.S. The EU must have had a busy week, as the June 12, 2019 edition of the Official Journal of the European Union noted the official registration of three other wine appellations—we’ll have more information on this tomorrow!

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

References/for more information:

Conference Preview: Treasure Hunting in Argentina—Looking for New and Exciting Wines

Today we have a conference preview from Nora Z. Favelukes. Nora has been one of top-rated speakers at SWE’s Annual Conferences over the last few years, and we are thrilled to have her back again in 2019. In this post, Nora tells us about her amazing adventures in Argentina—and the wines that she’ll be sharing with her very lucky audience during her session “Treasure Hunting in Argentina: Looking for New and Exciting Wines”—to be held this August in Washington DC as part of SWE’s 43rd Annual Conference.

“For the past 30 years, I have followed the Argentine wine industry as it emerged on the world stage. It evolved from selling all their production in the domestic market to looking-out, emulating international wine styles; to looking inwards, with a fuller understanding of their own regions and terroirs. Today, modern pioneers of this new movement are creating new wine regions in the North, South, East, and West of Argentina with a renewed passion and vision.

Every way you go, producers and winemakers are crisscrossing frontiers in an explosion of creativity expanding into new altitudes, soil mapping, adopting sustainable and biodynamic practices, experimenting with micro-terroirs, Nomblot eggs and micro-vinifications. We cannot discount the influence of new local producers coming to the wine business with open and fresh eyes; new joint ventures between European, American and local wineries; the influence of foreign investments and the impact of the French, Italian and American flying winemakers.

In 2018, Maria Laura Ortiz, renowned Argentine Sommelier and Wine Consultant and I, partnered in a new joint venture, GO TO WINE to assist premium quality South American wineries to export worldwide. In preparation for our upcoming seminar at SWE’s Annual Conference, Maria Laura and I have hunted for those unique treasures that best represent the diversity of the Argentine wine industry of today.”

The Cliffs near Costa & Pampa

The Cliffs near Costa & Pampa

Adventures East—South Atlantic Ocean Wines 

On the Shores of the Unthinkable: Costa & Pampa Albariño—Chapadmalal, Buenos Aires: Located 211 miles south of Buenos Aires, Argentina’s capital city and four miles west from the South Atlantic Ocean, Costa & Pampa’s first vintage was release in 2014. The climate, unlike that of mountainous areas, is humid and cold; ideal for short cycle varieties resulting in fresher and delicate wines, with great aromatic complexity and good volume.

In Chapadmalal, I found not only a region that is geographically similar to that of Champagne in France, but also a farmer willing to take a chance on this amazing experiment who leased 30 acres of his land for us to convert into a vineyard” stated Daniel Pi, Trapiche’s Head Winemaker.

The coastal landscape of Patagonia

The coastal landscape of Patagonia

Coastal Patagonia’s Only Winery: WAPISA Pinot Noir—San Javier, Rio Negro: “Wapisa” is the indigenous Patagonian word for “whale” who frequent the nearby the coast of our vineyards. Located just 12 miles from the Atlantic Ocean on the banks of the Río Negro, Wapisa is the only winery in this Argentine Patagonian terroir, which bears strong similarities to Bordeaux.

“When we arrived in this area, the land was barren and we had to start from scratch” said Patricia Ortiz, Wapisa’s owner “What started as a gamble, today is a great project with an incredible team that continuously pushes us to keep growing.” 

Wapisa is a proud Partner in Conservation of the  California Ocean Alliance.

La Pampa Landscape

La Pampa landscape

Adventures South—Wines of Patagonia’s continental, arid climate

The Raw and Untapped Potential of La Pampa: Bodega del Desierto Desierto Pampa Cabernet Franc—Alto Valle del Rio Colorado, La Pampa: In 2001, when a team of Argentine entrepreneurs with a budding interest in wine, saw the raw and untapped potential of the Alto Valle del Rio Colorado (635 miles southwest of Buenos Aires City) decided just there and then, to become the first wine producers in this region. Their vision was complemented by a qualified and courageous group of experts – all with the same pioneering spirit.

“The Pampean terroir is ideal for Cabernet Franc due to the extreme dryness, the constant wind and the dramatic thermal amplitude” stated Sebastian Cavagnaro, Bodega del Desierto’s Chief Winemaker.

Early frost in the Patagonia Extreme

Early frost in the Patagonia Extreme

Patagonia Extreme: Bodega Otronia 45 Rugientes White Blend—Colonia Sarmiento, Chubut: Located in Sarmiento, Chubut at 45°30′ south latitude and 1,150 miles south of Buenos Aires, Bodega Otronia is a pioneer in developing extreme vineyards in the world. Founded in 2011, this state-of-the-art winery will release its first vintage this coming Fall. Due to the frosts during the vegetative cycle, 62-mile winds and the cold and semi-arid climate, Otronia’s 123 acres of vineyards are disease-free and Organic Certified.

“Because of the unique characteristics of our terroir, our wines develop elegant complex aromas with natural acidity and great phenolic maturity” summarized Máximo Rocca, Bodega Otronia’s Commercial Director.

Adventures Northwest—High Altitude Andean Mountain Wines: The Land of the Iconic Torrontés

At the top of the Cafayate Valley

At the top of the Cafayate Valley

Bodegas Etchart Cafayate Gran Linaje Torrontés—Cafayate Valley, Salta: Founded in 1850 in what was then an unexplored region, Bodegas Etchart is the oldest operating winery in the Cafayate Valley and, the leading producer of Torrontés in the country. At 5,600 feet above sea level, deep sandy soils and extreme thermal amplitude this unique variety to Argentina thrives. “We are constantly working on improving the quality of our wines. From blending wines with same grapes sourced from old and younger vineyards, fermenting with wild yeasts, lowering the alcohol content and increasing the aging potential of our white wines” said Victor Marcantoni, Bodegas Etchart’s Head Winemaker.

Adventures West: Wines of the Andes Mountains

Digging in Gualtallary

Digging in Gualtallary

It’s the Soil that Makes the Difference: Doña Paula Selección de Bodega Malbec—Gualtallary (Uco Valley, Mendoza): Doña Paula in Mendoza is the test area for a unique study: the Terroir-in-Focus Research Program dedicated to the study of the influence of the climate and soils on Malbec. Founded in 1997, Doña Paula rapidly became one of Argentina’s leading producers and exporters of Estate bottled wines worldwide.  

“The best micro-vinifications are the ones with grapes sourced in Gualtallary from limestone and rocky soils” said Doña Paula’s Chief Winemaker, Marcos Fernandez ,It produces intense wines, with great minerality and sharp tannins.”

Syrah and Garnacha Vineyards

Syrah and Garnacha Vineyards

Unusual Blends: Proemio Wines Syrah/Garnacha—Russel, Mendoza: Marcelo Bocardo, third generation winemaker and the descendant of a traditional Italian immigrant family to Mendoza founded Proemio in 2001. This small boutique winery is dedicated to the production of wines that reflect their authentic geographical identity through sustainable and organic agriculture.

“When I purchased this vineyard ten years ago” stated Marcelo Bocardo, Proemio’s Winemaker and Owner. “I found 17 acres planted with both Syrah and Garnacha. I decided there and then to co-ferment the grapes and make this unique blend where the spiciness of the Syrah is enhanced by the vibrant freshness and acidity of the Garnacha.” 

Andeluna Cabernet Franc—Gualtallary (Uco Valley, Mendoza): From its inception in 2003 and under the leadership of the Barale family, Andeluna was designed to become one of Argentina’s top producers. Their vineyards at 4,265 feet above sea level in Gualtallary, Uco Valley – the most sought after wine region in Mendoza – its rocky soils, great thermal amplitude, and sustainable practices under the careful guidance of Manuel Gonzalez Bals it’s Chief Winemaker and the consulting of  Hans Vinding-Diers.

Snow-capped Andes Mountains and vineyards

Snow-capped Andes Mountains and vineyards

“I particularly like the area of ​​Gualtallary” stated Manuel, “The loamy-sandy-stony soils and climate, together with the low pH, thick skins and small berries intensify the aromatic expression, freshness, structure and elegance of our wines.”

About the speaker: Nora Z. Favelukes is a pioneer of premium South American wines in the United States. As an influencer, skilled spokesperson, moderator, negotiator and a natural diplomat with years of international experience, Ms. Favelukes understands the inner workings and complexities of the US, South American and European wine markets and is the president of QW US Market Experts, a wine and spirits consultancy. She is also a noted speaker specializing in European and South American wines and the US Wine Market.

Nora’s session, “Treasure Hunting in Argentina—Looking for New and Exciting Wines” will be held on Friday, August 16 at 4:45 pm as part of the Society of Wine Educator’s 43rd Annual Conference, to be held in Washington DC.

Are you a conference speaker that would like to provide a preview of your session? Contact Jane A. Nickles at jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Conference Preview: Virginia Wine Today—and in its 5th Century

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Today we have a post from Richard Leahy, a Charlottesville, Virginia-based wine professional. Richard will be leading a session entitled “Virginia Wine: 400 Years Young and World-Class” as part of SWE’s 43rd Annual Conference, to be held this August in Washington DC. Read on as Richard tells us about the little-known history of Virginia wine.

The “Acte Twelve” of the Jamestown Assembly in 1619 mandated the planting of at least ten European grapevines per household, so we are now moving in to Virginia’s fifth century of documented winegrowing.

Twenty five years ago Virginia wine was little more than a curiosity. In 2012, Steven Spurrier, the renowned British wine critic for Decanter, said “My favorite North American wine region is Virginia, because it makes the kinds of wines I like to have a second glass of.” Richard Leahy, author of Beyond Jefferson’s Vines, the definitive book on Virginia wine, will take you through highlights of the Virginia wine story, and with a curated tasting, show you the diversity and quality of Virginia wine as it moves into its fifth documented history.

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This session will highlight some of the fascinating milestones in Virginia wine history, explain the many natural challenges of viticulture in this climate, and review the most popular wine grapes of the state. We’ll explore the ways that Virginia wines demonstrate the state’s unique terroir and take a glimpse into the future of Virginia wine.

You’ll enjoy Chardonnay that is more like that of Burgundy than California and Meritage with the unique spice and violets of Petit Verdot. Attendees will be able to taste why Cabernet Franc has undergone a renaissance in style and quality as Virginia’s most consistent red grape, and enjoy the freshness and balance of local Sauvignon Blanc. (And there’s more!)

After enjoying this class, you’ll be well-prepared to not only enjoy Virginia wines, but to show them (and your new knowledge) off to friends. After all, if Virginia wine was Thomas Jefferson’s dream, let’s toast that 200 years later we can enjoy it today!

Richard’s session— Virginia Wine: 400 Years Young and World-Class—will be held on Thursday, August 15 (2019) at 10:30 am as part of the Society of Wine Educators’ 43rd Annual Conference, to be held in Washington DC.

Richard LeahyAbout the presenter: Richard Leahy is a wine professional based in Charlottesville, Virginia and coordinates the conference program for the Eastern Winery Exposition, the largest wine industry trade show east of the Rockies. He has been writing about wines of Virginia and the East since 1986, and in May 2012 his book Beyond Jefferson’s Vines, the definitive book on Virginia wine, was published to high praise from reviewers and is now available on Amazon.com in a revised second edition. Richard is a member of the American Wine Society and the Circle of Wine Writers, and also has a website and blog (richardleahy.com) focused on wines of the East.

Are you a conference speaker that would like to provide a preview of your session? Contact Jane A. Nickles at jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

More Than a Glass: A Brief History of the Tiki Mug (Conference Preview 2019)

Today we have a post from Ben Coffelt, CSW. Ben will leading a session entitled “Tiki Time” as part of SWE’s 43rd Annual Conference, to be held this August in Washington DC. Read on as Ben tells us about a very important part of Tiki culture—the history of the Tiki mug.

Tiki mugs used by LA Speakeasy. Photo by Vincent Navarro, via Wikimedia Commons.

Tiki mugs used by LA Speakeasy. Photo by Vincent Navarro, via Wikimedia Commons.

The Tiki mug is one of the most beloved and defining aspects of Tiki culture. In the heyday of the Tiki craze, mugs could be found in almost every home in America. Where did the practice of serving elaborate tropical drinks begin and how have they re-emerged?  While some would characterize Tiki mugs as ceramic glasses specifically depicting tikis (Polynesian idols), for the purposes of our brief history, we will be referring to all mugs used to serve Tiki drinks as “Tiki mugs.”

The first ceramic mugs were used by Trader Vic at his eponymous restaurant in the 1940s. While the original motivation for using ceramic mugs is unknown, Tiki expert and author of “The Book of Tiki”, Sven A. Kirsten, points to an evolution of the increasingly elaborate presentation of drinks at Polynesian restaurants at the time. One of the first mugs was used for the Samoan Fog Cutter and the first vessel to feature a representation of a Tiki was on a drink called the Tiki Bowl. These mugs helped contribute to the sense of escapism that Tiki bars channeled. Fueled by an increasing American interest in Polynesia and Hawaii, the mug would grow from this humble start.

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Photo via Los Angeles Islander Life Magazine, circa 1960 (public domain)

In 1955, Bob Bryant, a former bartender at Trader Vic’s, opened Tiki Bob’s in San Francisco. This is most likely the birthplace of the first mug to be done in a Tiki idol style. Soon, other Polynesian and Tiki restaurants were having their own mugs made in a greater variety of shapes and done as tikis, coconuts, bamboo, or volcanoes. By the 1960s large manufacturers, such as Otagiri Mercantile Company, began producing them on a commercial scale. Restaurants had their logos added and used them as souvenirs for guests. The trend became so popular that Holland Mold Inc made ceramic molds for people to use at home to create their own Tiki mugs. They often became as important, if not more so, than the drink they held.

By the mid-1970s, Tiki was out of fashion as were the drinking vessels associated with it. Once cherished mugs ended up discarded or donated to thrift stores. Others gathered dust, forgotten on shelves or in cabinets. Classic bars and restaurants closed. Tiki was viewed as old fashioned and discos and nightclubs became the norm.

As Tiki re-emerged in the 1990s it was as a celebrated mid-century aesthetic. Décor and mugs were viewed more as art and pop art pieces, than simple decorations. Vintage mugs became sought after collectibles. Enthusiasts and collectors scoured flea markets for lost gems. The internet revolutionized the ability to hunt down hard to find mugs and offered more information on producers and history than ever before. Ebay currently has 8,000 mugs listed for sale. The website Ooga-Mooga! allow collectors to publicly display their collections and connect with others who are willing to trade or sell mugs.

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Now the mug has returned not just at dedicated Tiki restaurants, but many bars will feature one or two Tiki drinks in themed glassware. Contemporary Tiki bars like Three Dots and a Dash in Chicago and Latitude 29 in New Orleans, feature modern, custom takes on mugs or recreations of classic designs often made by Tiki Farm or Bosko. Beautifully constructed cocktails served in elaborately designed ceramicware are perfect for Instagram. Last fall, approximately one thousand people lined up at Disneyland to try to obtain a new limited release. The mug has come full circle back to a place of prominence in American bar culture.

Ben’s session—Tiki Time—will be held on Wednesday, August 14 (2019) at 10:30 am as part of the Society of Wine Educators’ 43rd Annual Conference, to be held in Washington DC.

Are you a conference speaker that would like to provide a preview of your session? Contact Jane A. Nickles at jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Conference Preview 2019: Georgia on my Mind

Metekhi Cathedral

Metekhi Cathedral

Today Jim Laughren, CWE brings us a preview of a session to be presented at SWE’s 43rd Annual Conference, to be held on August 14th through 16th in Washington, DC. Read on as Jim tells us about the land (and wines) of the Republic of Georgia.

There is a land far, far away, nestled in the bosom of mountains high and rugged.  A land connecting kingdoms and nations east and west, it’s valleys once a crossroads of ancient trade routes. Hawks soar among the snow-capped peaks, and crystalline waters tumble and swirl through channels of rock and stone. A land whose hillsides are covered with vines and whose people are both warm and fierce. Silks and tapestries, sugar and spice, teas and porcelain and gold and ivory for countless centuries passed along its roads and rivers, wending in caravans from village to village.

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There is a land far, far away, coveted by many, its position well placed, home to a proud and spirit-filled people. A land invaded countless times, by kings and potentates, by czars and chieftains, by shahs and sheiks and sultans, a land that has been ruled by many even while those born to it planned and fought and strove to throw off the unwelcome yokes of conquest. A land where the earth is like unto a mother, the azure skies a cap of glory on high, hidden monasteries the custodians of faith and future.

There is a land far, far away, called after the sixth generation of Noah, a land old and beloved to its own long even before the days of Mesopotamia, before the ziggurats of Eridu, before Pharaoh walked the banks of the Nile, a land of small shelters and peaceful villages, a land where wine was made within the embrace of the earth, stored and shared much as it is today. A land whose people would be welcomed and greeted afar, for they carried with them the secret of wine, of nurturing the vineyards and bringing forth the magical drink.

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You are welcome to join us as we explore this special land and its many gifts. You are welcome to taste the wines, made as they have been for millennia, from grapes with names unknown to most, with flavors most intriguing, and perhaps, if we are fortunate, with the same joy and appreciation as the defenders of this land, the creators of ghvino themselves feel towards this everlasting gift.

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Jim’s session—Georgia on my Mind—will be held on Friday, August 16 (2019) at 4:45 pm as part of the Society of Wine Educators’ 43rd Annual Conference, to be held in Washington DC.

About the speaker: Jim Laughren, CWE, is a wine writer and educator, a former importer and distributor, and the author of “50 Ways to Love Wine More: Adventures in Wine Appreciation” and “A Beer Drinker’s Guide to Knowing and Enjoying Fine Wine.” He has recently returned from what he terms a “pilgrimage” to the Republic of Georgia and will be sharing impressions, photographs, and, of course, wines from his visit. On August 15th, from 6:30 to 7:30 pm he will also be appearing at Kramerbooks, 1517 Connecticut Ave NW, Washington DC for a signing of his book, “50 Ways to Love Wine More.”

Are you a conference speaker that would like to provide a preview of your session? Contact Jane A. Nickles at jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Zirbenz, Vermouth, Gruyère: Gifts of the European Alps

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The European Alps—stretching from France, Italy, and Switzerland through Germany and Austria and Slovenia—contain within them a diverse series of ecosystems. These include the Alpine lowlands—rich with deciduous trees and ideal for farming and vineyards. Higher up, the area is known for conifer forests of fir, spruce, and pine. Above the tree line, the valleys explode with the plants of the Alpine meadows: herbs, grasses, wildflowers, and shrubs.

The bounty of the Alps is reflected in the wine, food, and spirits of the region. These include:

  • Absinthe: The first-ever Absinthe Distillery was opened in 1797 by Henri-Louis Pernod in the Swiss town of Couvet [now part of Val-de-Travers])
  • Vermouth: The town of Chambéry, located in the Alps of Eastern France, has long been a center of vermouth production and is now home to several brands of vermouth including Dolin, Routin, and C. Cosmoz.
  • The wines of the Alps, which include those produced in the French regions of Jura and Savoie and Italy’s Val d’Aosta.
  • The wines of Switzerland, which include some fascinatingly obscure wines produced from the native grapes of region—such as Chasselas, Amigne of Vétroz, and Cornalin du Valais.
  • Botanical liqueurs: A range of fascinating and historic botanical liqueurs that includes Chartreuse, Génépy des Alpes, and Bonal.
  • Cheese: The legendary dairy farms of the Alps produce a range of cheeses that includes Emmental, Gruyère, Appenzeller, Comté, Abondance, and Fontina Val D’Aosta (as well as fondue and raclette).
Photo by Moroder (derivative work) via Wikimedia Commons

Photo by Moroder (derivative work) via Wikimedia Commons

And then there’s Zirbenz, known as the Stone Pine Liqueur of the Alps. Zirbenz is a sweet, slightly bitter, fruity, and resinous liqueur flavored with the immature fruit (cones) of the Zirbelkiefer tree (also known as the Arolla Stone Pine Tree). The Arolla Stone Pine grows in the Alps and Carpathian Mountains of central Europe, and can thrive at elevations up to 2,300 meters (7,500 ft) above sea level.

Zirbenz is produced at the Josef Hofer Distillery in Steiermark (Styria), Austria. After the unopened (immature) cones of the trees are harvested, they are sliced open and macerated in a base spirit. This provides the liqueur with its natural earthy-red color and its slightly bitter, tannic finish. It’s something you have to experience to believe.

References/for further learning: