Guest Post: Georgia—Indigenous and Ancient

Today we have a guest post from Evan Davis, CS, WSET 3, CSW. Evan tells us a bit about what he learned during a recent trip through the winelands of Georgia.

Georgia MapWhile many countries and emerging regions of the world have made their bones attempting to grow familiar French grape varieties, in the country of Georgia, winery owners have taken a different approach. All chips are in on traditional Georgian grape varieties.

Travel to Georgia, and you’ll enter a world apart and distinctly different from the rest of the wine world. Not leastways because of the long and oppressive Soviet regime, which—beginning in the 1920s—effectively ended winemaking as a free and commercial enterprise until the dissolving of the Soviet Union in 1991. In fact, of the nearly 125 million 750ml bottles exported in 2022, over 87 million of those bottles were exported to Russia. This is around 70%—and, with the US export share being a mere 1.1 million bottles, this is something the Georgians are hoping to change.

Just how are they going to accomplish this? With an intense focus on their strengths. Ask any Georgian winery owner what the most important strength of their winemaking heritage is, and you’ll get several answers. The nearly 8000-year history of making wine, the practice of making wine in Qvevri, and the veritable kaleidoscope of their indigenous grape varieties to name a few.

georgia grapesGeorgia currently boasts as many as 525 endemic grape varieties. Of these, approximately 30 are used in commercial agriculture today. As a matter of fact, the country’s main wine region—Khaketi in eastern Georgia—is planted almost entirely with just a few leading grape varieties. However, even with these (5 or 6) most commonly planted grapes, a wealth of tasting experiences awaits the wine lover.

All the main grape varieties are made in both Qvevri and the “western” or modern style. The use of Qvevri—large handmade clay fermentation vessels buried in the ground—represents the ancient and unique practice of winemaking in Georgia. Alternatively, the western (modern) style of winemaking is focused on taking advantage of technological advances to produce clean, varietally correct wines using less labor-intensive production methods.

Rkatsitelli for example, is one of the most planted grape varieties in Georgia. At 63% of the total harvest in 2022, this thick-skinned white grape variety is the darling of Georgian winemakers. Rkatsitelli translates to “red horn” referring to the reddish hue the stems of this variety develop when lignified. When produced in the western style, it produces bright, tangy wines with crisp acidity and notes of lime zest, green apple, fennel and tarragon. If made in Qvevri, the wines take on a whole new character and complexity of texture, displaying aromas and flavors of dried orange peel, marmalade, dried flowers and curry spices. Fenugreek and coriander come to mind.

Georgia LandcapteMtsvane on the other hand, is a thinner-skinned white grape variety that has much more pronounced floral tones. It is a very successful blending partner to Rkatsitelli. This is particularly true in the wines from the region of Tsinandali, considered to be Georgia’s flagship white wine. While still bright and crisp, Tsinandali wines have an extra dimension of texture, intensity and floral lift not present in 100% Rkatsitelli wines. Tsinandali wines are not made in Qvevri, must come from within the designated boundaries of Tsinandali, and must be dominated by Rkatsitelli, with 15% Khakuri Mtsvane allowed in the blend.

Mtsvane itself is often used to make monovarietal wines in Qvevri, with a broader, open-knit palate as compared to the intensely textural Rkatsitelli. Other white varieties one encounters sporadically are Kisi, Khikvi, Tsolikouri, and Krakhuna.

Winemaking for the white wines made in the western style is typically straightforward. Regardless of grape, the wines are usually stainless steel fermented, and malolactic fermentation is blocked to retain the racy, crisp acidity. Some may be aged in oak barrels, though mostly the wines are rested in tank with light lees stirring and bottled young and fresh. Don’t mistake this for not having a capacity to age. Rkatsitelli is particularly age worthy, due to its high acidity, intensity, and textural components caused by its thicker skin.

QuerviIf racy, brilliant wines are the norm for the whites, the red wines of Georgia couldn’t be at the farther end of the spectrum. Nearly all Georgian red wines are produced from the Saperavi grape.

Saperavi is a teinturier grape, meaning the veins of its flesh are red. This makes it impossible to make a white wine from Saperavi, no matter how gently the skins are pressed. The most famous teinturier grape most have heard of is Alicante Bouschet from Portugal. Like Alicante, Saperavi produces red wines deep with color and rich with tannins and intense flavors. These are wines which have all the components necessary to age and improve in the bottle.

Saperavi, which represented 30% of the total harvest in 2022 is made in a wide range of different styles. From fresh young wines with bright fruit flavors, to more serious expressions aged in French barriques and even semi sweet reds. Saperavi is also often made in Qvevri.

When bottled without oak aging, Saperavi displays flavors and aromas of fresh blackberries, mulberries, violets, a touch of black pepper and dried herbs. When aged in barrel, the wines naturally take on a more baked and jammy character to the fruit, with lots of cedary and tobacco tones mingled with espresso. The most serious and age worthy examples of Saperavi come from the fabled area of Mukuzani in the Khaketi region. Wines labeled Mukuzani must be made from 100% Saperavi and aged a minimum of three years in cask.

There is also a controlled appellation of origin for semi-sweet wines made from Saperavi : Kindzmarauli, in the region of Khaketi. Traditionally, most of this wine was exported to Russia, and it was extremely popular during Soviet times. It is still popular in Russia today. Taste wise, though the wine is sweet, it does have enough juicy acidity to keep it from being cloying. I like to describe it as a a darker, more structured and non-effervescent version of Brachetto d’Acqui. When made in this sweeter style, the pretty violet and iris floral tones are turned up to 11. It is a great pairing with spicy dishes, though care should still be taken with spice because the tannins are still present.

Though Georgia sits a world away from the rest of the wine world, the country’s pride and passion for its heritage is staggering. Its food, culture and grape varieties are not only unique, but diverse and delicious.

About the author: Evan Davis is a regional Wine Educator for Spec’s Wine, Spirits and Finer Foods in Austin, Texas. A classically trained chef, Evan cut his teeth working in some of Austin’s finest restaurants. His passion for wine blossomed through a passion for food, and a culinary exploration trip to the Napa Valley eventually sparked a full-on obsession and a career in wine.

Photo credits: Evan Davis

 

 

Guest Post: The Wine Industry of Uruguay Today

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Today we have a guest post from Elizabeth Yabrudy, CSS, CSW, CWE. Elizabeth is a member of SWE’s Board of Directors and a wine professional who recently move to Uruguay. In this informative post, she brings us up to date on the dynamic world of Uruguayan wine.

“A glass of Albariño, please!”

I just asked for it when I sat down in the hall of Iberhouse, the new concept of Iberpark, one of the most important liquor stores in Montevideo. And yes, I am in Uruguay’s capital city, wishing to drink a glass of Uruguayan Albariño. If you are surprised, you haven’t been paying attention to what the wine world has said lately about this small but amazing wine country.

I have been following the wines of Uruguay since 2000. Over the years I have tasted some good— and some not so good—wines, but also some incredible jewels. For quite a while, the wines of Uruguay were all about Tannat (varietals and blends), always powerful wines, full of tannins and flavor. At the beginning, I would say until 2010 or maybe a little later, this industry was talking solely about this French grape that turned to be the iconic grape of Uruguay.

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But the Uruguayan wine industry is now so much more than just Tannat. It has evolved in a beautiful way. Now you find a country that offers different profiles of Tannat (talking not only about vinification, but also about a sense of place), excellent whites which have made Albariño the superstar, and a great portfolio which includes other varieties like the less known Arinarnoa and Marselan, but also excellent Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier, and so many others.

According to the official data from Inavi (National Institute of Viticulture), there are around 6,000 hectares of cultivated area, more than 1,180 vineyards located in 17 of the 19 departments of Uruguay, and plus 860 producers. This year (2023) Uruguay produced around 70.000.000 kilograms, as indicated by Eduardo Felix, Inavi’s Technical Advisor. This is less than the last official data published (2022) when it was registered a production of 102.616.440 kilograms, and this is mainly due to the drought that the country has been experiencing. Felix appointed during our phone interview, that 30% goes to the export market (Brazil and the United States are the most important markets, followed by England, Canada, Mexico, Sweden and Finland), and the rest is consumed locally. They are expecting this percentage to increase.

As an interesting fact, Marcos Carrau -Production Manager at Bodegas Carrau and a member of the 10th generation of Carrau’s Family- tells that when his grandfather started his export project in the 70s, it was considered of national interest because he wanted to produce fine wines in a 750ml bottle, with the goal of exporting part of his production. By that time, the entire production was just for the local market, and neither bottle packaging nor quality wine was the rule.

Vineyards at Bodega Casa Grande

Vineyards at Bodega Casa Grande

For a long time, when people used to talk about Uruguayan fine wine, they were mainly talking about wines made in the departments of Canelones and Montevideo, which accounts for 78% of the total planted area (66% and 12%, respectively). But things have changed. Even when the major production is still located in these areas, other regions are making excellent and recognized labels. As a side note, a high percentage of wineries are now part of Uruguay Sustainable Viticulture Program, a program committed to produce wines which come from traceable, environmentally friendly systems.

ATLANTIC WINES: Uruguay is located in the same parallels of some of the vineyard lands of Argentina, Chile, South Africa, Australia and New Zealand (30° to 35° of south latitude); however, for many reasons Uruguay tends to be comparable to European wine regions, particularly because it has a huge Atlantic influence on its wine regions.

As previously said, you can find vineyards almost everywhere in the country but the southern part, closest to the coast, is by far the most important zone in terms of fine wine production. Canelones and Montevideo take the lead, followed by Maldonado (where the famous Punta del Este is located), Colonia and San José.

Map via: https://uruguay.wine/es/regiones/

Map via: https://uruguay.wine/es/regiones/

Uruguay is relatively flat, with some areas with gentle slopes, so altitude does not play a big role in terms of viticulture. What is more important is the proximity to the water, as Tim Atkin -Wine Writer and Master of Wine- explained when I asked him about the expression of the different Uruguayan wine regions. This is not only about the ocean, Uruguay has also a marked influence from the Río de la Plata, an estuary formed by the union of Paraná River and Uruguay River, and the vineyards closer to these rivers are warmer than those more to the east, with major influence of the Atlantic.

There are different types of soils, the majority generated from a sedimentary basin in Montevideo/Canelones. The area around Melilla (Montevideo) contains more clay, while Las Violetas (Canelones) is characterized by silt/clay sediments. Other areas in this department contain pink granite as well, like where Bodega H. Stagnary is located. The so called Oceánica/Atlántica region, where Maldonado is located, is the zone with the most Atlantic influence, higher altitude than the rest of the wine regions, and also a bigger geological diversity: crystalline rocks with some quartz incrustations, alluvial and gravel soils in the valley, and weathered granite. All of them have formed, throughout millennia, the ballast of the region, a soil full of minerals which gives rise to one of the greatest wines of Bodega Garzon: Balasto. To the west, in Carmelo, located in Colonia’s department, climate is influenced by the estuary of the Río de la Plata. Daniel Cis, oenologist of Bodega Campotinto and wine consultant of many wineries in the area, explains that “for our location, we typically are one or two degrees Celsius warmer than other wine regions and, as a result, it gives us around one week of ripeness ahead”. About the soils, he says, “in general the area has deep soils, with a low level of clay. Very permeable soils with good drainage, which is essential to prevent fungal attack”.

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Uruguay is a four-season country, but not extremely marked. During summer, temperatures are mild to hot, and drop at night giving a considerable diurnal swing, which is great for the grapes; in winter, the weather is not excessively cold. Uruguay used to have an abundance of good quality water thanks to the proximity of numerous rivers; however, due to climate change, things are different today and, unlikely before, Uruguayans are now worried about drought. This is one of the challenges the industry is facing. Eduardo Felix from Inavi explains that vintages in Uruguay are not stable. Last year and this year were very atypical. “We had a 30% harvest loss, but quality has improved according to producers”, Felix said. This is related to the quote of Tim Atkin in his 2021 Uruguay Special Report, where he says that “climate change is, by and large, a boon for its wine industry”. I had the chance to ask Tim if he was still thinking the same way, and he said yes. “Maybe in summer slightly warmer regions are having problems with the absence of rain and the heat; but generally speaking, these early vintages have been a very good thing”. I also had the opportunity to visit in February/March Bodegas Carrau and Bodega Casa Grande. Marcos Carrau and Florencia de Maio coincide, saying that due to the dry season, the harvest was brought forward, giving as a result a very healthy bunches, grapes with lots of sugar, good acidity, and right phenolic ripeness. Less quantity, more quality.

Daniel Cis also commented that “the vines are responding very well, especially because Uruguay tended to have very high humidity levels and now it is all the way around. We are thinking of irrigating vineyards for new plantings and, for the older vineyards, have irrigation as an option to not compromise the grape quality, in case the drought continues.

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In January, Leo Guerrero, Sommelier and Iberpark Brand Ambassador, prepared for me a sensational wine tasting. “I want you to taste different varieties, but also different zones from Uruguay”, he said. We had the chance to taste a delicate Rosato di Sangiovese from Bodega Sierra Oriental (Maldonado), a vibrant Albariño from Bodega Casa Grande (Canelones), a natural Barbera wine made by Pablo Fallabrino (Canelones), a lovely Tannat del Litoral from Bodega Campotinto (Carmelo), and a splendid and elegant Salto Chico Tannat Reserva Especial (Salto). It was a great opportunity to taste the expression of different Uruguayans regions: the minerality from Maldonado, which come from the soil but also from the ocean breezes (saltiness!); the roundness of the wines from Canelones (great balance!), the “stone minerality” and the intense nose from Carmelo (warmer zone, river influenced!), and the sweet ripeness from Salto (northern and warmer climate).

Having said that, it looks like today the Uruguayan wine industry is not only about Tannat…we are talking about a wine country that is capable of producing great wines, with an impressive diversity in terms of grape varieties, regions, and styles. A wine scene which is increasingly diverse, according to Tim Atkin, who also told me: “I think the potential is definitely huge, and what we are seeing now is just the beginning of a fine wine culture”.

 THE WINE SCENE AND ITS ACTORS: The industry had experienced some important changes since 1990, when the Vineyard Conversion Pilot Program (Programa Piloto de Reconversión del Viñedo) began. The area planted with low quality vines was reduced and the different varieties of Vinifera grapes have been cultivated in areas where they show their best potential. The industry has been focused since then on making more fine wines than common wines. New oenologists, younger generations taking important roles in the family wine business, and old “new” grapes listed in many wineries’ portfolios are some of the latest changes in the industry. According to Daniel Cis, “we are now studying soils and climate, thinking what to plant and where to plant the vines. Precision viticulture, looking for which variety is going to give better results in which site.”

The author, Elizabeth Yabrudy with Marcos Carrau

The author, Elizabeth Yabrudy with Marcos Carrau

I personally feel that Tannat-based wines have experienced a great evolution. I remember drinking -some twenty years ago- red wines from Uruguay that were very oaky, too powerful (and not in a positive way), full of immature tannins. But today, things are very different, although some people still think that the use of oak is still not well managed. For Tim Atkin “the local market is still a little too dependent on oak, and many people are making wines with oak to sell it in the local market, and that excess of oak is necessarily not something that people is looking for on export markets”. But it is important to mention that the way Uruguayan oenologists are utilizing oak is different now.

Daniel Cis agreed with Atkin. “To improve our winemaking, we have decreased the oak level, even if a part of the market asks for it. We have to keep looking for place and fruit expression, especially if we want something more than a wine from Uruguay, but a wine from a specific zone of Uruguay.”

According to Eduardo Felix, “we went from producing ´frenchified wines´ (15%to 16% abv., with overripe berries, hard and heavy wines, full of oak…) to produce more ´italianized wines´ (fresher and fruiter, micro-oxigenated, aged in botti grandi instead of regular barrels…)”. And that is basically the same message I received from Marcos Carrau, who commented “today we have a kinder and friendlier Tannat, with lower alcohol content, better balanced […]. We use French and American oak, and Tannat seems to like the last one very well”. Daniel Cis says: “we changed for good. Our Tannat is now drinkable, concentrated and expressive, but not rough”.

The great thing about Tannat, the icon red grape of Uruguay with 27% of vineyard acreage, if that it is a very versatile grape: you can get carbonic maceration wines (e.g. Pizzorno Mayúsculas Tannat Maceración Carbónica), passing through wines without or with just a bit of oak (e.g. Campotinto Tannat del Litoral, Cerro del Toro Tannat Línea Clásica or Familia Deicas Atlántico Sur), and to find wines with medium to long aging like Gran Tanaccito from Bodega Casa Grande or Bouza Tannat B28, among many others. Besides, there are beautiful rosés like Artesana Tannat Rosé, as well as some sparkling wines (e.g. Río de los Pájaros Brut Nature Tannat, from Bodegas Pisano), many blends (e.g. Artesana Tannat/Zinfandel, Juan Carrau Tannat/Cabernet Sauvignon, Bouza Monte Vide Eu from Tannat/Merlot/Tempranillo), and last but not less, the sweets Tannat liquors.

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A great wine exercise is to taste a flight of Tannat with similar winemaking techniques, from different Uruguayans wine regions. If you do so, and you are not a Tannat lover yet, here is a comment from Florencia de Maio, the young oenologist of Bodega Casa Grande, that could inspire you: “usually people do not fall in love with Tannat at first sight. Tannat wine is shy… usually it does not say too much in the nose, but when you learn to know it, you know that the best will come when you feel all the flavors in your mouth”.

Uruguay’s wine regions have been compared many times with Bordeaux, France, mostly because of the maritime climate, even when Uruguay used to have more rainfall than Bordeaux (things have changed the last few years!). In any case, it is not a coincidence that some of the new grapes approved in Bordeaux (2021) have been cultivated in Uruguay for some years now, giving excellent results.

Talking about the whites, there is Albariño, that has become the spoiled girl. It is no longer a fashion grape, it has, as Tim Atkin mentioned, “a massive potential”. There is a fact that Tim also commented on, and it is that many wineries are planting it, producing good examples with this grape. “There is something about Albariño, particularly when the wines come from Maldonado, where you can get closer to the ocean, the ocean breezes, the volcanic soils on the slopes… Again, I think there is a lot of potential for Albariño and, for me, it is Uruguay´s best white grape”, affirmed Tim. Of course, when we talk about Maldonado, it is impossible not to think about Alto de la Ballena that was the first winery in the area (2001) and, of course, about Bodega Garzon, probably the biggest winery in Uruguay, main wine exporter, responsible in a great way for putting the name of Uruguay in the map as a wine country producing high quality wines.

The Winery at Bodegas Carrau

The Winery at Bodegas Carrau

However, the history of the Albariño in Uruguay began with Bodegas Bouza. As Cristina Santoro—Exports & Marketing Manager—told me that the Bouza family is from Spanish origin, specifically Galician. “When they started the project and thought about the varieties they wanted to have, of course Albariño came right away […]. It was planted in 2000, and the first harvest was in 2004”.

The French Viognier has also registered an increase in both, vineyard area and production, of course, not as significant as Albariño. It is not very well known yet, and is not an easy grape to cultivate but its defenders told me that if you control the Viognier in the vineyard and recognize its versatility, it is so great. Viognier is becoming the white grape of Carmelo, and it is one of the favorite grapes of Daniel Cis.

When I asked Eduardo Felix -who by the way was responsible for the first Albariño´s harvest in Bouza and Garzón- about the future of the Uruguayan wine industry, he told me that “the issue of water deficit and climate change leads to wonder what viticulture we are going to aim for. The focus is on the following grapes in terms of the reds: we will stick with Tannat, but we will pay attention to Merlot, Marselan and Arinarnoa”, he said.

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Marselan and Arinarnoa have registered a recent increase in Uruguay, not only in area, but also in production. Both red grapes are also now on the list of the varieties allowed to be in Bordeaux blends.

Uruguay has planted more than 185 hectares of Marselan (3% of the total of the total vineyard hectares). It is a French cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache, created by professor Paul Truel more than sixty years ago (1961). Marselan is very well adapted to Uruguay, where it has been planted for around 20 years. It is a variety highly resistant to fungi and other common diseases of the vines, which is perfect for the country climate. There are many wineries producing 100% Marselan in Uruguay. Some of them are Establecimiento Juanicó, Bodegas Carrau, Bertolini & Broglio, Dardanelli, and Chiapella, among others. You can find diverse styles, young/fresh to bold/intense, but generally purple in color, fruity aromas, with medium to high acidity, and medium tannins.

Talking about Arinarnoa, there are only about 63 hectares planted, which is around 1% of the total area planted with vines. However, this aromatic and fruity grape has conquered many winemakers in the country. It is also a French grape, a cross between Tannat and Cabernet Sauvignon, created in Bordeaux, in 1956, by the French Basque researcher Pierre Marcel Durquety from the Institut National de la Recherche Agronomique. It found a home in Uruguay since 1980, and from there has been showing a significant growth, especially in the last twelve years (it grew from around 10 hectares in 2011 to more than 60 in 2021); it also behaves greatly in the vineyard when its production is controlled, and also is great in oenological terms. It matures late in the harvest season, usually after Tannat but before Cabernet Sauvignon.

I would say that one of the main promoters of the cultivation and growth of Arinarnoa is Florencia De Maio, who also happened to be the fourth generation of viticulturists and winemakers in her family. She says that Arinarnoa is the future of Uruguay. During my visit to Bodega Casa Grande, she told me “no one got much out of it for varietals, it was used for blends because it has a lot of aromas and a lot of color. We launched our first 100% Arinarnoa in 2013. We have been testing and changing the style, including passing it through oak, because we understood that it has potential to evolve”.

The author, Elizabeth Yabrudy in the vineyards at Bodegas Bouza

The author, Elizabeth Yabrudy in the vineyards at Bodegas Bouza

Bodegas Carrau also has a very expressive and elegant Arinarnoa. I had the chance to taste it with Marcos Carrau. The winery has around one hectare of Arinarnoa, planted in Las Violetas, Canelones, since 1996. However, the first varietal showed up in the market in 2018, as a part of the Colección de Barricas line.

Other producers of Arinarnoa are Giménez Méndez, Bresesti, Cantera Montes de Oca and Cerro Chapeu. Do you know what to expect? In case you have not tasted it yet, it has a deep red color, shows fruits and spices in the nose, has a great tannic structure and good acidity. Excellent when young, but also capable of interacting with oak without losing its varietal expression. The trend of Uruguayan winemakers is to apply second-use barrels or Hungarian oak to avoid overshadowing the fruity expression of the variety.

SURPRISE! MORE WINES TO TASTE: Now you know that Uruguay produces excellent Tannat, Marselan and Arinarnoa, and if you like white grapes, you have to try their Albariño and Viognier. But this is not all! If you come to Uruguay, make good friends because you will have to uncork so many bottles of wine.

In the red field, you must try their wonderful Merlot, but also buy some of their Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Nebbiolo wines. According to Tim Atkin, “Cabernet Franc has a good future, although I would look over some other varieties like Sauvignon Blanc which I think has a good potential”. So for whites, taste their Sauvignon Blanc and look for the few Petit Manseng they have, including the one from Bodegas Carrau.

If you like Spanish varieties, also check out the Tempranillo wines, especially Bouza! If you are an Italian grape lover -and also curious about Natural wine-, Pablo Fallabrino has a lot to offer: from Arneis to Nebbiolo, passing through Barbera and Dolcetto, and some other grapes. Bouza has an enchanting Riesling that is a must, Artesana is the only winery with a portfolio where Zinfandel is one of the main varieties, and Florencia from Bodegas Casa Grande is probably releasing this year another grape that make her eyes spark when she talks about it: Caladoc, another French grape, a cross between Garnacha and Malbec. If you like sparkling wines, they have excellent ones too!

Not in Uruguay? You will probably only find in the stores some Tannat, a few bottles of Albariño, and perhaps Merlot, Cabernet and Tannat-based blends. If you go to Brazil, you will have a better chance to get some Marselan or Arinarnoa, as well as other great bottles made in Uruguay.

But if you visit this beautiful country, do not hesitate to allocate part of your travel budget to buy Uruguayan wines and to visit some wineries in the different wine regions, taking Los Caminos del Vino and some other paths. The portfolio is huge, and wines and wineries are both worth it!

Elizabeth Yabrudy

I would like to thank to the following people who took the time to talk with me about the Uruguayan Wine Industry:

  • Eduado Felix, Inavi’s Technical Advisor (January 19, 2023)
  • Leo Guerrero, Sommelier and Iberpark Brand Ambassador (January 23, 2023)
  • Cristina Santoro, Bodegas Bouza Exports & Marketing Manager (January 25, 2023)
  • Marcos Carrau, Production Manager at Bodegas Carrau (February 10, 2023)
  • Tim Atkin, Wine Writer and Master of Wine (February 13, 2023)
  • Daniel Cis, Oenologist of Bodega Campotinto (February 20, 2023)
  • Florencia de Maio, Oenologist of Bodega Casa Grande (Febrero 22, 2023)

References/For more information:

About the author: Elizabeth Yabrudy, CSS, CSW, CWE is a sommelier and journalist currently residing in Uruguay. To date, she is the only South American to have achieved the Certified Wine Educator designation from the Society of Wine Educators. In addition, Elizabeth is the winner of the 2018 Banfi Award, having received the highest combined total score of any candidate sitting the CWE in 2018. She stays busy teaching and writing about wine and spirits, as well as leading tastings and service training. In addition to her wine and spirits credentials, Elizabeth has a Master’s Degree in Electronic Publishing from City University in London. You can find her on Instagram: @eyabrudyi

Photo credits: Elizabeth Yabrudy

Guest Post: Walla Walla Wine Country—the Soils with a Story

A Red Barn in the wheat field of the Palouse, Washington State,Today we have a guest post from Darla Hoffmann, CS, CSW. Darla tells us about her recent trip to the Walla Walla Wine Country with a special focus on the vineyard soils.

While visiting Walla Walla, it’s hard not to glorify the impact of the Missoula Floods. The massive amounts of water that plowed through this part of the earth 12,000 to 18,000 years ago created the rugged mountain formations and current landscapes. It left behind an array of soils from loess, silt, sand, and volcanic in some parts to marine sedimentary and granite in others. This catastrophic event brought such fortune to the present-day terrain and is largely responsible for the beauty and agriculture that now exists.

Walla Walla is approximately a four-hour drive from Boise, Idaho. The drive curves along parts of the Snake River and leads to a dramatic sighting of wheat farms that blanket both sides of the road. An important piece of the economy, I appreciated the views of unharvested wheat for miles. However, we ultimately saw the combine harvesters hard at work and, imagined the auspicious state of affairs for bread, baked goods, and beer.

Photo credit: Darla Hoffman

Photo credit: Darla Hoffman

The Walla Walla region has become one of the Northwest’s most important wine-producing regions. The Walla Walla Valley is a sub-AVA within the Columbia Valley. Two-thirds of the AVA is in Washington and one-third is in Oregon.  The Milton-Freewater Rocks District is a sub-ava within the Walla Walla Valley that resides completely in Oregon. As of 2018, about 56.7% of the vines were grown in Washington and 43.3% in Oregon, with 25.8% of Oregon plantings in The Rocks District. Even though a large amount of fruit comes from the Oregon side, most of the wineries are in Washington with only a handful in Oregon.

The sunny region enjoys cool evening temperatures, with minimal rainfall due to its location east of the Cascade Mountains. These diurnal shifts are responsible for the high acid and alcohol levels developed in the grapes. The climate crisis has been challenging for the region as every year is hotter than the last. Walla Walla’s hot summers and cold winters deem thicker-skinned, hearty grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah preferred plantings. Bordeaux varieties like Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Malbec also thrive in these parts. Although it’s mostly red wine country, Chardonnay and Riesling are some of the whites that have made a name for themselves.

SAMSUNG CSCAs the wine belt indicates, the appropriate latitude for grape growing is anywhere between 30° and 50°. Walla Walla sits at 46°; if you draw a line across the globe, you’d notice 46° is midway between Burgundy and Bordeaux in France. Although Bordeaux has long warm sunny days, it is unlike Walla Walla in that it is influenced by a maritime climate. Nonetheless, what makes these regions similar is that they both owe their soils to the freezing and melting of glaciers of years ago. The deposit of these rocks and gravel provides excellent drainage and helps absorb and radiate heat both at the grapes and into the soils beneath.

Moreover, the Rhone Valley of France, sitting at about 44° latitude on the map just south of Burgundy, has an abundance of rocky soils – like what you will find in the Walla Walla Valley. Syrah, native to the Rhone Valley, adapts well to these rocky soils. The Milton-Freewater Rocks District AVA in Oregon’s Walla Walla Valley is named and known by these infamous rocks. Furthermore, some distinct aromas and flavors come from The Rocks District. Although the climate is mostly consistent all over Walla Walla, wine from this region delivers funkier, smoky, almost gamey notes. These characteristics are commonly found in Syrah from the Rhone Valley as well. Some say this is a by-product of the precious, rocky soils.

Photo Credit: Darla Hoffman

Photo Credit: Darla Hoffman

There are approximately 120 wineries in the Walla Walla region, considered the unofficial capital of Washington Wine Country. Although not as widely sourced for retail nationwide as wine from California, or even the Willamette Valley, Oregon, they are gaining more visibility each year. The Walla Walla Valley is the three-time defending champion (2020-2022) and five-time finalist (2018-2022) in USA Today’s annual 10 best reader’s choice awards for America’s Best Wine Region. A few of my winery recommendations include Va Piano, Canvasback, Caprio Cellars, and Balboa Winery in Washington—along with Ducleaux Cellars, Rôtie Cellars, and Watermill Winery in Oregon.

About the author: Darla Hoffmann is a wine and travel journalist, Certified Sommelier, Certified Specialist of Wine, and owner of About Wine, a wine education and marketing company. Darla is a freelance writer and has her own blog on wine and travel throughout the world. She was the lead writer for AZ UNCORKED/the Arizona Wine Festival and The Arizona Wine Guide. Darla is a current member of the International Food, Wine & Travel Writers Association (IFWTWA), The Society of Wine Educators, and The Wine Century Club. She conducts wine classes and tastings at various venues all over the country and provides sales and marketing support to the wine industry in the form of tasting videos, articles & blogs, events, and staff education, account development, and client relationships. You can contact Darla via her website.

 

Guest Post: Nicholas Longworth: The “Father of the American Wine Industry”

Today we have a guest post from Marty Nott. Marty is a recently-minted CSS, and while in our CSW Online Prep Class he expressed an interest in Nicholas Longworth, one of the “important names in American wine history” mentioned in the introduction to chapter 16. I mentioned that it might make for a fascinating blog post, and here is the result of Marty’s research and writing. Thanks very much to Marty for this fascinating look at a little-known, but highly important part of American wine history. 

Portrait of Nicholas Longworth by Robert S. Duncanson (from the collection of the Cincinnati Art Museum; photograph in the public domain)

Portrait of Nicholas Longworth by Robert S. Duncanson (from the collection of the Cincinnati Art Museum; photograph in the public domain)

He was an unlikely character working with an unlikely grape in an unlikely location that would nevertheless become the cradle of American winemaking: The state of Ohio.

Yes, Ohio.

Born in 1783 in New Jersey, Nicholas Longworth arrived in Cincinnati, Ohio, by flatboat at age 20. At that time, the city was only a frontier hamlet of about 750 people on the banks of the Ohio River. Longworth’s father—a Revolutionary War-era loyalist to the Crown of England—had lost most of his land and wealth to confiscation after the war, so Nicholas spent his boyhood in poverty. For a while, he was apprenticed to a shoemaker, and later his parents sent him to clerk for an older brother in South Carolina before he headed to Ohio on his own.

After studying law under a respected local judge, Longworth opened his own practice and thrived in the booming community of Cincinnati. He quickly acquired large real estate holdings, in part by taking land as payment in lieu of legal fees. In the 1820s, he stopped practicing law to manage his real estate empire and pursue his two primary avocations: horticulture and art. He had already become fabulously, sustainably wealthy. In 1850, Longworth paid the second-highest tax bill in the United States; by one estimate, at the peak of his fortune and adjusting for inflation, Longworth’s net worth places him among the 40 wealthiest Americans of all time.[1] Good thing; he had expensive hobbies.

His properties just northeast of Cincinnati’s heart overlooked the Ohio River and included what was later named Mt. Adams, a south-facing and steep ridge that had been stripped of its forest by early settlers for lumber with which build their homes and shops.

In 1813, he began planting vineyards on that slope, concentrating first on the now-extinct Alexander grape. Alexander was considered an accidental hybrid of a native Labrusca species with a European Vinifera vine that was probably planted by colonial Pennsylvania Governor William Penn near Philadelphia, in one of many failed early attempts to grow Vinifera in the colonies. Theoretically, the Labrusca genes allowed the Alexander to survive and the Vinifera genes improved its taste.

Longworth found the only way he could make drinkable wine of Alexander was to add sugar and fortify it with brandy so that what he called “a tolerable imitation of Madeira” was about 20 percent alcohol by volume (40 proof). Cincinnati was (and still is) in the heart of American whiskey territory, and Longworth – a believer in “moderate temperance” – was dismayed at the region’s jug liquor habits. He hoped to produce a wine satisfying and attractive enough to replace whiskey, aiming for a drinkable, dry table wine of 12 percent alcohol or less. His high-test Madeira knockoff wouldn’t do, so he kept looking for a more suitable grape.

Photographic plate of Catawba grape from the book The Grapes of New York, 1908 by Ulysses Prentiss Hedrick (public domain)

Photographic plate of Catawba grape from the book The Grapes of New York, 1908 by Ulysses Prentiss Hedrick (public domain)

In 1825, Longworth bought some vines of the Catawba grape, eventually finding that it did well in the Ohio Valley and that it made a better wine, though still with the notorious foxy traits of Labrusca. Thinking that the skins might be the source of Catawba’s musty taste and aroma, Longworth began separating the juice from the skins before fermentation. This produced a dryer and lower-alcohol blush wine. It was less expensive than imported wines and similar enough to Rhine Valley wines that the new Catawba wine proved popular with the waves of German immigrants arriving in the Ohio River Valley, who also became willing workers for Longworth’s expanding vineyards.

However, most of the area’s population thought that Longworth’s Catawba wine resembled a sour cider, so they didn’t buy it. Determined to create a commercial success, Longworth continued experiments with other production processes and grapes. Shades of Dom Perignon centuries earlier, Longworth’s wine fortunes changed with an accident. In 1842, a batch of the Catawba wine was mistakenly put through a second fermentation, resulting in a sparkling wine more pleasing and—to Longworth’s intuition—more promising than his still wine.

Problem: Longworth didn’t know how to make good sparkling wines—at least, not on purpose.

Solution: He went to France and brought back winemakers from Champagne to teach him and his employees how to make a proper bubbly. He built a cellar especially for the purpose, and his French winemakers introduced the Methode Champenoise. It was a noisy and sticky education, as bottles kept exploding from the pressure—42,000 of them in one year alone. Undeterred, Longworth bought more bottles, hired more winemakers—see “fabulously wealthy” above—and began selling the sparkling Catawba as soon as his first unexploded batches came of age.

Longworth’s German clientele liked it—a lot—and finally, so did the non-Germans around Cincinnati. He began shipping it out of Ohio, and soon East Coast aristocrats who previously sipped only European wines were demanding Longworth’s sparklers. By the mid-1850s, Longworth was advertising his sparkling Catawba nationally, producing 100,000 bottles a year, and making a tidy profit from it. The Longworth winery is generally credited with being the first successful commercial winery in the United States, and his sparkling Catawba was unarguably the first commercially viable sparkling wine made in the United States.

One account tells us, “Robert Browning drank it. In the ‘Illustrated London News,’ Charles Mackay said that it ‘transcends the Champagne of France.’”[2] Longworth sent a case of it to the poet Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, who found it inspiring enough to write a poem in tribute – “Catawba Wine.”

Longworth’s terraced vineyards on Mt. Adams (Image from a pamphlet advertising Longworth's wines, 1866)

Longworth’s terraced vineyards on Mt. Adams
(Image from a pamphlet advertising Longworth’s wines, 1866)

Longworth’s success launched an industry in the Cincinnati region; by 1859 there were 2,000 acres of vineyards producing more than 600,000 gallons of wine annually. Most of that was Catawba still wine, as sparkling wine production required deeper pockets than most vintners had.

The boom, however, was short-lived. Nicholas Longworth died in 1863 at age 80, depriving the young industry of its deepest pockets and his well of energy and dedication. Around that same time, black rot and powdery mildew flourished in the region’s humid summers and decimated Ohio’s vineyards. Catawba vines turned out to be increasingly susceptible to the rot as they aged, and by then many were in maturity or beyond. Such problems were not well understood at the time, and there was no simple or affordable cure.

With his immense wealth, Longworth could have absorbed his losses had he lived longer, but other vintners in the region could not. Simultaneously, the American Civil War created a shortage of manpower for the vineyards and offered other ways for entrepreneurs to make a living. By 1870, Longworth’s heirs closed his bottling plant, and what remained of Ohio’s wine industry was shifting north to the shores of Lake Erie.

Over his lifetime, Longworth helped Cincinnati grow into a city of more than 160,000, and his presence remains visible in the area today. He is as well known for his patronage of regional artists as for his winemaking, and his mansion—a wood-framed architectural treasure he bought in 1830 and named Belmont—still stands in downtown Cincinnati, housing the Taft Museum of Art. The slopes of Mt. Adams where he planted his first vineyards now feature urban neighborhoods, parks, and expressways, but Cincinnati remains at the center of today’s Ohio River Valley American Viticultural Area (AVA), the largest in square mileage of Ohio’s five AVAs.

Longworth’s family legacy still touches American art and politics. One of his granddaughters, the pottery artist Maria Longworth Nichols Storer, co-founded Rookwood Pottery in Cincinnati, which is still in business and a familiar name to antique lovers (hello, Antiques Roadshow!). One of his great-grandsons, Nicholas Longworth III, became an attorney and Ohio politician of note who served in the U.S. House of Representatives for almost 30 years in the early 20th century, including six years as Speaker. He married President Theodore Roosevelt’s famously sharp-witted daughter Alice in a 1906 White House ceremony, and the Longworth House Office Building in Washington, DC, is named for him.

To learn more:

[1] https://www.philanthropyroundtable.org/almanac/people/hall-of-fame/detail/nicholas-longworth

[2] http://www.weekendwinery.com/wineryinsight/Article_Jul03.htm

About the author: Marty Nott (Rochester, NY) is retired from a public relations career and earned his CSS in January 2020. He is studying for the CSW exam and then plans to pursue the CSE certificate.

Guest Post: A Trip to the Santa Ynez Valley

Koehler Winery

Koehler Winery

Today we have a guest post from SWE member Jan Crocker, CSW. Jan, a current resident of southern California,  earned her Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) certification in 2016 and is currently studying for the Certified Specialist of Spirts (CSS).  Wish her luck!

For more than a decade, the Santa Ynez Valley meant Pinot Noir and “Sideways” to wine and movie fans alike. With many of the film’s scenes shot inside The Hitching Post II steakhouse in nearby Buellton, restaurant-goers bemoaned the near-impossibility of getting a seat inside the eatery, let alone at its newly famous bar. Of course, customers lucky enough to secure a table ordered the wine that made the restaurant famous: Hitching Post “Highline” Pinot Noir.

During the 16 years after the release of “Sideways,” however, the valley has evolved into far more than a haven for bright, zesty Pinot Noirs and lively Chardonnays. It is now home to 120 wineries that produce 31 different varieties, with lesser-known grapes Lagrein, Cinsault, and Grenache Blanc thriving in the AVA’s vineyards alongside the more famous mainstays. Often thought to share the balmy temperatures of nearby Santa Barbara, its summer afternoons are surprisingly toasty, with the mercury often touching 90 degrees Fahrenheit – and its nights dropping to the low 50s, even at the end of July.

Brander Syrah Rose'

Brander Syrah Rose’

The Santa Ynez Mountains provide a rain shadow for the region, sealing in daytime sunshine and warmth that benefit Rhône varieties Syrah, Grenache Noir, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, and Viognier. Additionally, brisk late-afternoon winds and the sandy, largely infertile soils of the region’s lower elevations favor these classic grape varieties.

Two years ago, my husband and I were lucky enough to spend five lovely, warm summer days in Santa Ynez. We managed to visit seven wineries and three tasting rooms—Stolpman Vineyards, Dragonette Cellars, and Flying Goat Cellars. These three wineries are required to have their on-premise tasting facilities separate from their wine-production sites for a good reason—their vineyards are located well in the region’s inland reaches, near Happy Canyon and Ballard, where narrow, winding roads are the norm.

Jan and David Crocker at Brander Winery

Jan and David Crocker at Brander Winery

Although we found our way to wineries on the outskirts of the Foxen Trail—Brander Vineyard & Winery as well as Sunstone Winery come to mind—we gravitated toward the Rhône-esque wineries nearest Los Olivos, the tiny town roughly six miles from Buellton. Surprises and learning awaited us; my Pinot Noir-loving husband and yours truly, a fan of old-world Syrah to the core, both found selections we loved. Flying Goat’s Rio Vista Vineyards’ Pinot Noir spoke to his enjoyment of Dijon-driven Pinot Noirs, while I went weak in the knees over Melville Vineyards’ “Donna’s” Syrah, intensely soulful and brooding. Both of us discovered Koehler Winery—a site we has never heard about before—but have since been eager to suggest to wine fans.

Absolutely, we’ll return to the Valley over the next year or so, delighted to revisit our favorite wineries—and excited to explore new ones as they open.

 

Ramona Valley Redux

Photo credit: Jan Crocker

Photo credit: Jan Crocker

Today we have a guest post from SWE member Jan Crocker, CSW. Jan earned her Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) certification in 2016 and is currently studying for the Certified Specialist of Spirts (CSS).  Wish her luck!

Now entering its early adolescence as the United States’ 162nd American Viticultural Area (AVA), the Ramona Valley AVA continues to evolve. Not unlike a resilient young teen, though, the region has stared down a few challenges over the last couple of years, and made further progress in its growth.

In my first piece three years ago about the Ramona Valley, I’d mentioned that my husband and I had visited the region four times. Fast forward to fall 2019: We’ve now spent eight outings there, discovering new wineries, returning to those that are “old friends,” and taking in the wild beauty of its distinctive natural landscape.

Before Ramona Redux, however, here’s Ramona Recap: a primer of the region for anyone unfamiliar with it.

The third AVA in the South Coast “super AVA,” the Ramona Valley is in north-central San Diego County, attaining its designation in January 2006. At 33.1 north, it’s 25 miles west of the Pacific Ocean and roughly 35 miles northeast of San Diego. Its altitude – an average of 1,400 feet above sea level – provides for solid diurnal swings; wine grapes benefit from its chilly nighttime lows and toasty mid-day highs. Neighbor community Julian, home to several apple orchards, crisp autumns, and chilly winters with occasional snow, is 22 miles east of Ramona, and is 4,200 feet above sea level.

Photo credit: Jan Crocker

Photo credit: Jan Crocker

Granite, decomposed and rocks alike, is a trademark of Ramona terroir. Its tiny particles provide a subtle sparkle in the soil, and its boulders make their presence known on the likes of nearby 2,800-foot Mount Woodson and on the region’s numerous hills. The proprietors of Vineyard Grant James made that granite part of their winery’s identity, opting to showcase it for their entrance.

The AVA sits among the region’s neighboring mountains and hills, with Mount Woodson, the Cuyamaca Mountains, and Mount Palomar providing a rain shadow from ocean fog and chill. It’s home to a 14 ½-mile stretch of terrain with 89,000 arable acres over 139 square miles – and, according to the proprietors of Barrel 1 Winery and Poppaea Vineyard, “at least 11 different microclimates.”

On average, annual Ramona rainfall reaches a modest 16 inches. Winter evenings often drop into the low 30s, while the mercury often touches the low-to-mid nineties on summer days. (We’ll return to a historically high temperature that’ll likely remain for years in winegrowers’ and winemakers’ memories.)

Photo credit: David Crocker

Photo credit: David Crocker

Southern California’s “soft chaparral,” with ample quantities of sage and rosemary, is the story of Ramona’s flora – on display at the entrance to Woof ‘n Rose Winery. Indeed, those herbs find their way into nearly all of the 41 wines we’d sampled during our most recent stay. It’s little wonder that the components of Ramona’s semi-arid, rather warm Mediterranean climate make it an ideal home for robust, sun-loving grapes from the Rhone Valley and the southern half of Italy – as well as other, equally hardy varietals that prosper from good amounts of sunshine, heat, and breeze.

As for the toasty: The Ramona Valley sizzled in the early summer of 2017, with a 102-degree high the second week of July. (Anza-Borrego State Park, nearly 45 miles east of Ramona, reached 124 degrees that day.) About three weeks earlier, Ramona endured days of devastating heat, with one afternoon at 98. These days highlighted one of the toughest climactic challenges that local winegrowers had faced in years, as one winery lost its entire ’17 harvest. Another, according to Ramona Ranch Vineyards‘ co-owner Teri Kerns, “lost half of its grapes that year.”

Despite its recent challenges, the Ramona Valley AVA has made solid, significant growth since 2016. The region is now home to at least 60 bonded wineries, 22 with tasting rooms. Three new wineries have debuted since 2015: Barrel 1 Winery, Crystal Hill Vineyard, and Correcaminos Vineyard.

Photo credit: David Crocker

Photo credit: David Crocker

Two more concerns, albeit considerably lesser ones, surfaced in the Ramona Valley in fall 2019. On Oct. 28, the Sawday Fire torched 95 acres of terrain between Ramona and Julian; to the relief of the area’s residents and wineries, the flames stayed far from structures and vines alike. No matter: The area’as winery owners and staffers were on stand-by mode that day, ready to vacate their premises if necessary.

A day later, Ramona Ranch Vineyards’ co-owner/winemaker Micole Moore expressed his concern in his Oct. 29 post on Facebook. “Earthquake!” he posted regarding the shallow 3.6-magnitude that rattled Ramona that morning, its epicenter 27 miles northeast at Lake Henshaw.

Obviously, wildfires and quakes are part of southern California life. Still, to have two of Mother Nature’s trademark events of the state occur in as many days left Ramona, for a lack of a better phrase, a bit shaky.

Barrel 1, in the middle of Ramona’s Goose Valley, benefits from some of the region’s most moderated temperatures. “We’re in a valley, in a valley,” mentioned one of the winery’s directors. “That’s why it’s about 10 degrees cooler here than anywhere else.” To that point, Barrel 1 features three white wines in its regular tasting lineup: an opulent, intensely perfumed, luscious Muscat that undergoes complete fermentation, a Viognier aged in stainless steel, and another Viognier that’s matured in neutral oak – a deep-gold beauty that offers rich layers of tropical fruits, peach, tangerine, and honey.

Photo credit: David Crocker

Photo credit: David Crocker

The ascent of sun-friendly white varietals in the region, Ramona Ranch Vineyards’ Kerns pointed out, is the happy by-product of the recent success of the area’s wineries. She mentioned that the main obstacle for making white wines was the price tag of cold-fermentation machines, a formidable $100,000. With enough money saved over the years, winery owners were at last able to produce white grapes that took easily to the region’s terroir. Her “Burlesque” blend is ample proof of Ramona’s promise with whites, a vibrant, fragrant blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Muscat, and Symphony, a crossing of vinifera varieties Muscat of Alexandria and Grenache gris. The winery’s single-varietal Sauvignon Blanc struts its elegant acidity with help from the sturdy granite; it’s a beauty that’d likely impress fans of Bordeaux blanc – and it’s a personal favorite of mine.

In the Grasslands region, proprietor/winemaker Mike Kopp of Kohill Winery follows suit with his estate Sauvignon Blanc. Lemongrass, lime, white pepper, and a hint of sea salt offer a bright counterpoint to the subtly rich Semillon, 25 percent of his nuanced white Bordeaux.

Other Ramona Valley AVA wineries have found surprising success with varietals that’d initially seem to be ill suited for the hot summers and sturdy winds characteristic of the area. Veteran winemaker/proprietor Eric Metz of Lenora Winery, home of focused, bright reds and whites, crafts a fresh, flinty, and citrusy Chardonnay that’d delight fans of Burgundian whites, especially Chablis. Likewise, Vineyard Grant James’ Susanne Sapier’s Chardonnay is similarly vibrant and zesty, with limited aging in neutral oak.

Jan Crocker, CSW - our guest blogger. Photo credit: David Crocker

Jan Crocker, CSW – our guest blogger. Photo credit: David Crocker

Likewise, Albarino has found an excellent, albeit unlikely, home in Ramona. Renderings here lead the way with heady scents and flavors of peach, navel orange, tangerine, pineapple, mango, and passionfruit, with subtle acidity and minerality that bring the ripe flavors front and center. Marilyn Kahle, co-owner and winemaker at Woof ‘n Rose Winery, makes sure her compelling, complex Grasslands Albarino is varietally on point, although the valley’s warm climate and abundant sunshine provide for a different style that’s decidedly different from those from Rias Biaxas’ cool maritime climes. (On the red side of the story, she makes a gorgeous, opulent Alicante Bouschet that provides deep, succulent red and black fruits, baking spices, and a finish that’s long and astounding.)

As with our first extended trip to Ramona in August 2016, Lady Nature was surprisingly kind to us, with afternoons barely reaching 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Many late Septembers in the area deliver afternoons in the mid-90s, so wine fans opt for cool shade under the covered patios which nearly all wineries provide. Woof ‘n Rose, Ramona Ranch Vineyards, and Vineyard Grant James offered us that comfort, as well as stunning views of the region’s terroir.

 

Guest Blogger: Diving into the DO Valencia

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Today we have a guest post from Elizabeth Yabrudy, CSS, CSW, CWE. Elizabeth takes us on a deep dive into the wines of the Valencia DO!

When we think about Spanish wines, usually Rioja, Ribera del Duero and/or Cava are the denominations that come into our minds, but never Valencia, right?

Valencia, the city, is Spain’s third largest, after Madrid and Barcelona. The autonomous community—under the same name—has three protected denominations of origin: DO Valencia, DO Utiel-Requena and DO Alicante. The DO Valencia was created in 1932, although its wine production date backs to the Phoenicians.

According to the Spanish Wine Market Observatory (OeMV, by its initials in Spanish), Valencia as an autonomous community ranks fourth in Spanish wine production by volume, after Castilla-La Mancha, Extremadura and Cataluna, with 5.8% (2.4 Mhl) of the total.

Saint Mary's Square, Valencia

Saint Mary’s Square, Valencia

The DO Valencia: The DO Valencia is located in Spain’s east coast (on the Mediterranean Sea), with the DO Carinena to its north; the DO Alicante to the south; and the DO Utiel-Requena (as well as part of the DO Manchuela, DO Almanza, and DO Yecla) to the west. It covers 18,060 hectares (44,600 acres), and includes four sub-zones:

  • Alto Turia
  • Valentino
  • Moscatel de Valencia
  • Clariano

The region covered by the DO Valencia also includes some land that lies within the province of Albacete, as well as in some areas (less than 30% of either of each DO) in the communities of Utiel-Requena and Alicante.

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The Alto Turia subzone, located in the northwest of the Province, produces dry white wine only. It is a mountainous zone, with extreme temperatures and a wide diurnal swing, where mostly white grapes are cultivated in an altitude between 700 and 1100 meters (2,300 and 3,610 feet) above sea level. Merseguera and Macabeo are the main varieties, but other whites are also allowed.

Valentino is situated almost in the center of the autonomous community of Valencia. The area under vine is lower in elevation than Alto Turia, just 200 to 650 meters (660 to 2,130 feet)above sea level. It is a sub-one where both, white and red grapes, can be found. Merseguera, Macabeo and Planta Fina are the most common of the whites, but Semillon and Chardonnay can also be found. Garnacha Tintorera, Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon are the most planted reds. The wines of Valentino are produced in many styles, as the soil and climate are very diverse, but in any case, alcohol strength tend to be higher than in other zones.

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Moscatel de Valencia is located south of Alto Turia and Valentino, and is more highly influenced by the Mediterranean breezes. Of course, the main grape here is Moscatel, mainly used to produce Vin de Liqueur (“Vino de Licor” or “Mistelas”). Vineyards are no more than 250 meters (820 feet) above the sea level.

Clariano, in the south of the DO Valencia, is an area with two different climates due to the presence of both valleys and mountains. White grapes are primarily cultivated in the area closest to the sea, while the interior—with warmer temperatures and higher elevations—is planted mainly to red grapes including Garnacha Tintorera, Monastrell, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Tempranillo.

Grapes and Wine Styles: The focus of the DO Valencia is on indigenous grapes. Most producers strive to showcase the authenticity of the region, even when they also cultivate international red and white varieties. The wines—both white and red—tend towards freshness, with good acidity and a mineral (even salty) character. The fruitiness is the main characteristic in the nose and the palate. However, this region is well known for its famed dessert wines.

The authorized grape varieties are:

  • Whites: Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Macabeo, Malvasía, Merseguera, Moscatel de Alejandría, Moscatel Grano Menudo, Planta Fina de Pedralba, Planta Nova, Pedro Ximénez, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Tortosí, Verdejo, Verdil and Viognier
  • Reds: Bobal, Bonicaire, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Forcallat Tinta, Garnacha, Graciano, Malbec, Mandó, Marselán, Mencía, Merlot, Monastrell, Mazuelo, Petit Verdot, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Tempranillo and Tintorera.
Xàtiva Castle, Valencia

Xàtiva Castle, Valencia

Click here for a pdf detailing the styles of wine produced in the region: The wines of the Valencia DO

Valencia has its own port on the Mediterranean Sea—the fifth busiest seaport in Europe, and the largest in Spain. Because of its location, this community has been strongly focused on markets outside Spain rather than at home, maintaining the impetus on high quality products.

More than 500 wineries are located in Valencia, and the region now has its own wine route—the Ruta del Vino DO Valencia—helping to increase enotourism in the area. If you can find a wine from Valencia, don’t hesitate to buy it. Valencia is also home to two high-quality Vinos de Pago: Vino de Pago El Terrerazo and Vino de Pago Los Balagueses. You are guaranteed a great Spanish wine experience!

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About the author: Elizabeth Yabrudy, CSS, CSW, CWE is a sommelier and journalist residing in Venezuela. To date, she the only Venezuelan—and the only South American—to have achieved the Certified Wine Educator designation from the Society of Wine Educators. In addition, Elizabeth is the winner of the 2018 Banfi Award, having received the highest combined total score of any candidate sitting the CWE in 2018. She stays busy teaching and writing about wine and spirits, as well as leading tastings and service training. In addition to her wine and spirits credentials, Elizabeth has a Master’s Degree in Electronic Publishing from City University in London. You can find her online at ElizabethYabrudy.wordpress.com.

References/for more information:

Guest Blogger: Bucket List Bianco

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Today we have a guest post from a frequent contributor that we know as Candi, CSW. Read on to see how Candi learned to appreciate unique Italian wines.

The wine geek in me has several bucket list destinations. Places that I want to visit when the time is right and before aging overtakes my ability to travel with enjoyment. At the top of the list is Italy. Followed by Spain and Chile. Back to Numero Uno.

The nearest major city, where I do my Somm volunteer gigs, is second tier in terms of population, density, etc. Not at the level of New York, Atlanta, Dallas, Washington D.C., or Boston. But our city was recently a stop on a major tour sponsored by the Italian Ministry of Economic Development and the Italian Trade Agency, along with the Italian wine industry.

In my opinion, we live in difficult economic times. And a few European countries that have significant challenges appear to be engaging in this type of effort to promote their wine industry. I attended a Spanish event two years ago.

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Two months ago, the word went out in the local Somm community. Italian event coming! A big “get”, to use a journalism term. Or a “score”. Or just recognition that our community is becoming more established as an American wine industry destination. And the message to us was clear: please attend. We need a large head count. So I checked event date and time with my beloved Designated Driver (i.e., husband). All clear.

Hmmm. Italian. Trade only; complimentary. Bucket list destination. It doesn’t get much better than that. Ticket obtained.

My typical pre-event planning includes using the list of vintners and, if possible, wines to be poured to establish a target list. My method has worked very well for me lately. By targeting 15-20 wines to taste, with a break in the middle, I am able to enjoy and evaluate those wines before palate fatigue sets in. Further, I am being safe, responsible, and professional.

For this event, I had a list of vintners. That’s it. And searching wines produced, much less typical prices per bottle, was challenging. I learned at the event that this was because about 40% of the vintners do not currently import their wine into the United States. Of course, some were looking for distribution. But that 40% were truly bucket list. They were bringing Italy to me. How considerate!

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Event day. Lovely sunny weather, indoor venue in an area I’d never visited. Nice facility, nice layout. In the room’s center, the vintners were arranged by number in the brochure we then received. And, fortunately, there was now a list of each wine to be poured by each vintner. Geek heaven.

A first for me: at my initial pour, the vintner suggested trying the whites at various other tables before coming back and trying the reds. That made sense to me, as I know that many Italian reds are big, masculine, up-front, choose your term. Starting with or mixing reds could indeed diminish my appreciation of the whites. And I’ve had a tendency to focus on Italian reds in the past. Why not try another way?

The end result: I developed such an appreciation for the white wines that they became a great learning experience for me. I’d say at least 40% of the wines tasted were Bianco, 10% Rosato (my bridge wines) and maybe 50% Rosso.

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The Biancos, as a group, seemed to have more purity and depth than my prior experience. Here are a few impressions, by varietal.

My top choice: a 2017 50/50 blend of Greco and Fiano, IGT Campania. A creative blend. Greco seems to add up-front aromas & impact, while Fiano contributes further acidity. There is definite complexity. Imported.

Second choice: Greco di Tufo, Campania DOCG: poured 2018 En Primeur. Aroma drew me in: distinguished that as more complex than, for example, typical Fiano. I will certainly seek out examples to confirm. Almost no traffic at that particular table, which meant more time with the vintner. Not imported.

Vermentino, IGT Tuscany: poured 2018 En Primeur. Dry, no oak, definitely more complex than previous versions tasted. Not imported.

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Bellone, IGT Lazio: poured 2018 En Primeur. Pleasantly dry, distinct minerals, maybe bit of citrus. Friendly and interesting. Apparently a white clone of a red grape. Imported.

Falanghina Campania DOC: poured 2018 En Primeur. 100% Falanghina. Deep straw color, clearly darker than the Fiano which was harvested earlier. Clear floral and citrus aromatics, citrus more defined on the palate. Not imported.

Fiano Campania DOC: poured 2018 En Primeur. 100% Fiano. Striking clarity, aromas and palate show a hint of complexity, but definite appeal. Same vintner as the Falanghina. Not imported.

Malvasia Puntinata Lazio17 DOC. Also known as Malvasia del Lazio. Reminded me vaguely of Viognier. White flower aromatics more dominant, followed by citrus. Both noted on palate, where citrus made more of an impression. Interesting that some websites describe Viognier as a dry white floral! Not imported.

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Brut Rosato: poured 2018 En Primeur. Per the vintner, 85% Lambrusco, 15% Pinot Noir. My first Lambrusco, and a lovely introduction. Deep rose color, mid-size bubbles.  Aromatics are fruit-forward, which carries through to the palate. But there is definite acidity and, as is my personal preference, it is indeed dry. Maybe I can credit the Pinot Noir for that impact; the vintner delivered. Imported.

Rosato Sicila DOC: poured 2018 En Primeur. Per the vintner, 100% Nero d’ Avola. Another deep pink wine, this time a still wine with good clarity. Aromatics of fruit and citrus in balance. Confirmed on palate. A very nicely done dry Rose’ that makes no attempt to imitate Provencal versions. Imported.

After the whites and rosatos, it became apparent that it was time for a break. I had been carefully hydrating, with still bottled water and a few sips of Italian sparkling water as well. But a sit down and pause to take further notes and be safe was required. I know when that time occurs.

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This event had a feature I’d never seen before and I wish all tasting events had. Along the sides of the room, there were several tables with chairs. Intended for participants to use. That was a way to encourage people to take a break and to promote tasting responsibly. I ended up sharing a table with 3 others, and for the second portion of the tasting, it rather turned into a fun little cocktail party! One of us would go get a sample, then share the glass for an aromatic check with others. If they were interested, they could get pointed to a sample. I chose most of the reds, after my break, by their recommendation.

A few key Rosso impressions:

My top choice: a Tuscan Blend DOCG 2013. Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. Since the percentage of grape usage was in that order, it worked for me as I am a fan of the first two. A balanced, complex wine that stood out even though palate fatigue was imminent.

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Second choice: A Chianti Gran Selezione 2015. This was my personal favorite of 3 Tuscans poured by the vintner. Since I prefer the sour-cherry impact of Sangiovese, this may be why the wine outshone the Super Tuscans.

A Primitivo di Manduria Riserva DOP 2015. Per the vintner, 100% Primitivo. They were pouring several Primitivos. I wanted to try the one they chose as the least similar to American Zinfandel. I’m one who believes there is a slight genetic difference and I wanted to test my theory. My impression was that this wine was distinctly drier, without any of the jammy notes I have often noted in a Zinfandel. The Primitivo would clearly pair well with red food, not so much with the beef and pork we often enjoy with American Zinfandel.

Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2014. 100% Sangiovese. It was a goal to taste Brunello. Solid aromatics, so distinct that other tasters at the table went to try. Sour cherry, clearly astringent and tannic on palate. Long, long finish.

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Due to targeted tasting I missed the Aglianico Taurasi and Aglianico Campania. Along with a Cesanese and an Amarone. And many other Rossos. For me, the whites made such a favorable impact that it was well worth it. There will be other Rosso opportunities. I hope.

A few overall impressions: both Bianco and Rosso blends were good examples of each grape adding its unique contributions. Whether fruit, acid, tannin, structure, aromatics or a combination. And, I was attracted to mid-priced wines more than the most expensive ones; prices were discovered after the tasting. Whether this is palate preference or my frugal soul, it doesn’t matter to me. My palate is my source of enjoyment.

Further, I have a practice of 3 to 4 sips of water for every sip of wine. I had a second wine glass that I kept filled with the Italian sparkling water during my tasting of the Rossos. This was smart because the carbonation naturally reduced the amount of wine consumed. I will continue that experiment in the future.

As I learned from the distributors I met, the best toast is Salute! So Salute! And Cheers to Bucket List Bianco!

Guest Post: Ampelos Cellars: Triple-Certified and Rocking the Sta. Rita Hills

Today we have a guest post from Kate Brandt. While Kate was a student in my CSW online prep class, she mentioned on our class forum that the winery where she worked—Ampelos Cellars—was the first vineyard in the US to be “triple certified” organic, biodynamic, and sustainable. I was fascinated by her story and asked if she would like to write a blog post about the company. Lucky for us, she agreed, and we are so thankful to have Kate tell us this fascinating tale!

The Story of Ampelos Cellars, by Kate Brandt

As a Navy Spouse, I have had the opportunity to travel all over the world and visit some amazing places.  While living in Italy, I visited a small, 7-generation, family owned, organically farmed vineyard.  It was there I had my ‘A-HA’ wine moment and knew I wanted to spend the rest of my life learning about wine. It wasn’t until eight years later, when our family was stationed at Vandenberg Air Force Base in Central California that I got that opportunity … when I started working for Ampelos Cellars.

Peter and Rebecca Wonk

Peter and Rebecca Wonk

Owned and operated by Peter and Rebecca Work, Ampelos Cellars is the first vineyard in the United States to be triple certified Organic (USDA CCOF Organic), Biodynamic (Demeter) and Sustainability in Practice (SIP).  Located in the beautiful Santa Rita Hills wine region, Ampelos Cellars focuses on creating minimally invasive wines that tell a fantastic story about the soil and vines, making it easy for the consumer to enjoy the wines while creating their own great memories and stories to tell.

Peter and Rebecca bought their property in 1999 for a future a retirement project.  What a great and romantic dream, to wake up in the morning and have coffee while watching their dogs run through the vines, right!?  Then, a series of cancelled meetings following the 9/11 World Trade Center attack had them thinking they were done with the corporate world.  They pushed up their retirement dream and started in making wine full time.  In 2001, they planted their first vines – Pinot Noir, Syrah, Grenache and Viognier.  In 2004, they harvested their first 15 acres, and, in 2006, they converted their vineyard to organic and biodynamic farming.  They achieved their SIP certification in 2008, and their organic and biodynamic certifications in 2009.

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But what do all these certifications mean to the world of wine?

Organic Farming: Simply put, the main concept of organic farming is zero impact on the environment.

Organic farming follows standards for the use of natural fertilizers such as compost manure and biological pest control such as ladybugs and chickens instead of synthetic pesticides.  Also, organic farming uses techniques such as crop rotation, cover cropping and reduced tillage. This exposes less carbon to the atmosphere resulting in more soil organic carbon.  All of these practices are aimed to protect the earth, thus feeding the soil to feed the plant.

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Biodynamic Farming: Biodynamic farming was originally introduced in 1924, when a group of European farmers approached Dr. Rudolf Steiner (noted scientist, philosopher, and founder of the Waldorf School) after noticing a rapid decline in seed fertility, crop vitality and animal health.

Quartz crystals are buried in female cow horns because they are made of silicon which add more nutrients to the soil

Quartz crystals are buried in female cow horns because they are made of silicon which add more nutrients to the soil

It was the first of the organic agricultural movements when an English Baron, Lord Northbourne, coined the term “organic farming”, and the concept of “farm as an organism” was adapted.  It has similar ideas to organic farming in that it practices soil fertility and plant growth. However, there is a larger emphasis on spiritual and mystical perspectives such as choosing when to plant, cultivate or harvest crops based on phases of the moon or zodiac calendar.

Some biodynamic compounds used include:

  • Cow manure sprayed in the soil — Stimulates soil structure, humus formation, bacteria, soil life, fungi and brings energy and vitality to the roots. This regulates levels of limestone and nitrogen in the soil and increases water holding capacity of the soil.
  • Silica (quartz crystals) sprayed on the foliage — Allows leaves, shoots and clusters to enhance their use of light and heat. It improves photosynthesis, and assists with the plants assimilation of atmospheric forces.
  • Yarrow added to the compost pile — Attracts trace elements of sulfur and potassium, aiding plant growth.
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Sustainability In Practice: While Organic Certification only addresses the prohibition of synthetic pesticides and fertilizers, SIP addresses the whole farm by looking at how the farmer gives back to the community, environment and business.  The main goal is to help ensure both natural and human resources are protected.

There are 10 areas of SIP practices. Examples include:

  • Conservation and Enhancement of Biological Diversity — enhances and protects a biologically diverse agricultural ecosystem while maintaining productive vineyards.
  • Vineyard Acquisition/Establishment and Management — focuses on the decisions affecting the vineyard’s ability to sustainably produce high quality fruit with minimum inputs and manipulations.
  • Soil Conservation and Water Quality – focuses on protecting the resources necessary for plant life including land, soil, and water.
  • Pest Management – focuses on pest management rather than pest control, including controlling weeds, root insects, canopy insects, and diseases.
Chickens used for pest control and natural fertilizer to the soil

Chickens used for pest control and natural
fertilizer to the soil

Differences between the main farming practices:

  • Conventional
    • Get the biggest yields possible
    • Spray artificial pesticides and fertilizers
    • Quick profitability
  • Organic
    • Does not spray artificial pesticides or fertilizers
    • Does not focus on other farming aspects (energy, fertilizer, water conservation, etc.)
  • Biodynamic
    • Treats the whole ranch as one system; everything is in balance with Mother Nature
    • Waste of one thing is the energy for something else.
  • Sustainability In Practice
    • Focuses on energy, employee practices, water conservation, for example
    • Breaks farming down into 10 areas (some listed here): energy, water conservation, social equity, pest management, etc.

Ampelos is the Greek word for vine. Peter and Rebecca named the winery Ampelos because they believe every great wine begins with the vine and health of the vineyard. They have successfully achieved their dream of creating well-crafted, clean, natural wines through eco-friendly wine making. When I was in Italy, I realized I wanted to start a journey of my own in the wine industry. I had no idea then my journey would bring me full circle to a family-owned, triple-certified vineyard. I am lucky to learn from Peter and Rebecca and benefit from their experiences with every bottle I share as I continue on my voyage of wine with a full glass!

About the author: Kate Brandt is a proud Navy spouse and mother of two energetic girls.  She loves to travel, learning about (and drinking) wine, and enjoying treasured friendships.

Guest Post: Wine as a Small Business: Surviving and Thriving?

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Today we have a guest post from a frequent contributor that we know as Candi, CSW. Read on to see how Candi learned to appreciate some local small businesses that just happen to be wineries.

Small business is part of my DNA. All of my grandparents were family farmers. My father’s main business was a small electronics firm; as soon as he could, he too purchased a small farm. My brother and I each became self-employed after years of working as an employee. It’s just who we are.

So it stands to reason that I would seek out and support small businesses when it makes financial sense. I may be frugal, but I’m willing to pay a bit of a premium to support local restaurants, shops, etc.

Given my passion for vino, I have sought out opportunities to support small wineries. When we do a tasting trip, I seek out small vintners that I may have never even experienced for the target list. Extra points if the wines can’t be found elsewhere. Over time, direct-from-winery purchases have increased. Why not support wine as a small business and, sometimes, as a small farm?

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Very recently, I learned of a local event that would focus on small California family-owned wineries. It was one of my small-vintner buddies who clued me in, as he would be there. Sounds like another way to get a perspective on wine as a small business, not to mention a perfect way to spend a weekend afternoon. And my trusty designated driver, i.e. husband, willing to step up. I’m there. I’m so there.

The event was organized by an association for its members. More than 60 wineries participated. About 80% of the wineries have an annual case production of less than 10,000; about 30% produce 1,000 or fewer cases per year. Most major regions and a cross-section of AVAs were represented. It appeared that the wineries were targeting visibility to brokers, distributors, on-premise trade, and even direct-to-consumer.

My standard approach to an event of this magnitude is to do pre-event research. Just like tasting trips, I want to narrow the focus. As a professional, I’ve learned that I have a limit before palate fatigue sets in. For safety, education and enjoyment, I respect my personal limitations. To their credit, the association provided detailed information well in advance of the event. Even a spreadsheet listing participants, price ranges, key varietals, and contact information was available. Perfect.

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Prior to the event, I began to receive e-mails from some of the wineries. These detailed what wines would be poured, reminded me to stop by, etc. About 15% of the vintners sent these messages. A nice touch and a way to build anticipation.

For the event, I took a hard copy of my target list. Onsite, things were well-organized and staffed with ample volunteers. User-friendly organization, complete with tables in alphabetical order. A promising start.

Advance information, particularly the winery spreadsheet, proved to be very helpful. I did chat with a few attendees, seemingly Millennials, who preferred the app for smartphones that was also provided prior to the event. Not my cup of tea, nor my glass of vino. Multiple media strategies, however, can be a key way to increase exposure. Whatever is most user-friendly to the attendee is likely be adopted and appreciated.

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Armed with my trusty personal bottle of water, I began to execute my plan. As I limit the number of stops, it allows more time to chat with each vintner and to learn any geeky details or back story they care to share. Fortunately, there was less crowding than I’ve experienced at some events. The best part, for me, is learning from the vintners and staff. Less crowding means I don’t have to move on to be polite.

I learned of some wineries that were founded by “dreamers” later in life as an additional career. Some harvested grapes from tiny plots within key vineyards. Many continue to experience the high cost of doing business, particularly in glam areas like Napa and Sonoma. Most have opened since 2000, some as recently as 2017 and 2018.

Photo via: https://www.rescuedogwines.com/

Photo via: https://www.rescuedogwines.com/

Wineries were generally pouring current releases; there were a few new releases from vintages as new as 2016 for reds and 2018 for whites and roses’. My most interesting takeaway was the vast cross-section of varietals; clearly, some of the vintners had favorite grapes and chose to work with them. And, as I worked my way through my plan, I began to see just how many different varietals I could experience.

To illustrate, here is a list of a few of the wines that made a favorable impression. Granted, pricing and availability vary by location. But due to my frugal mindset, all wines listed are generally priced in the mid double-digits or less.

All of the wines except for Tablas Creek were new to me. I was learning that survival, even thriving, depend upon continued, increasing visibility as a key success factor. And not just for wineries. There were some other encounters. Many with…owners of small businesses.

This was an event done in a no-frills manner. The association relied upon a few sponsors for basic bread, cheese, and crackers so that palates could be cleansed and attendee risk managed. I met a few sponsors, and learned where I can buy their very tasty stuff locally.

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I saw one of my gym buddies there. Her husband is chef/owner of a restaurant. Another small business to seek out and support. Another business card into my bag.

I met the head bartender from one of our favorite restaurants; in fact, the place where we celebrated an anniversary. He noted that their top-selling brand is, yes, from a small winery.

I met folks visiting the area from Oregon. I now have a few recommendations of small wineries in their area to consider on our next tasting trip there.

So it wasn’t just the wineries that were getting increased exposure at the event. My opinion: small businesses need ongoing visibility to survive and even to thrive. That means multiple methods of communication: websites, focused e-mails, social media, word of mouth, any way to get their presence and their story out there.

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Maybe it was just a coincidence. The day after the event, I received an e-mail from a winery. They were liquidating and offering closeout pricing on their remaining inventory. One of those places where I’d signed up for a list years ago, so long ago that I forgot I subscribed to the list. Certainly the first message I’d had from them in years. A case study in what not to do? Possibly.

Since the event, I’ve received e-mails from several of the wineries. Reminders of what was poured, coupon codes for post-event discounts, thank-yous for stopping by. Follow-up and follow-through. Very wise.

If this event was any indication, small wineries remain alive and well. I also realized though, that it’s all about visibility, communication, flexibility, and just being out there.

As a small business owner, I will continue to support the same. Will you consider doing so as well? It is your choice. My choice is….

Small Winery Cheers!