Category Archives: News of The Wine World

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

On July 1, 2021, the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States announced a newly-approved American Viticultural Area (AVA) for Washington State: Goose Gap AVA. When this new AVA comes into force—on August 2, 2021—the total number of AVAs in the United States will be 256; of these, 19 will be located in Washington State.

Goose Gap is the third new AVA to be approved in Washington State this year; two others—The Burn of Columbia Valley and White Bluffs—were announced just last month (June 17, 2021).

The Goose Gap AVA—a sub-region of both the Yakima Valley AVA and the larger Columbia Valley AVA—is located in Washington State’s Benton County. The triangle-shaped area is tucked between (and to the south of) the Red Mountain AVA and the tiny Candy Mountain AVA.

According to the petition—submitted by Alan Busacca, PhD, on behalf of the Goose Gap Winegrowers Association—the distinguishing features of the Goose Gap AVA include its topography and soils, as discussed below:

Topography: The Goose Gap AVA surrounds (and is mainly to the north of) a basalt ridge known as Goose Hill (sometimes referred to as Goose Mountain). The topography of the area is such that most of the south- and southwest-facing slopes in the area are too steep for successful viticulture; therefore, many of the new AVA’s vineyards are planted on north- and northeast-facing slopes. As a result, the vines in the Goose Gap AVA receive less solar radiation than those planted on the south- and southwest-facing slopes of the nearby appellations, leading to longer growing periods and later harvest dates for the vines of the Goose Gap.

The elevation within the Goose Gap AVA ranges from 577 feet (176 m) above sea level (at the southern boundary) to 1,339 feet (408 m) atop of Goose Hill.

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Soils: Many of the soils in the area—covering about 65% of the appellation—consist of wind-blown loess over layered silt and fine-textured sand. In many spots, this topsoil extends for six feet with no hardpan or other root impediments. Other areas of the appellation are also covered by loess, but with varying depths of loess as well as vary amounts of fractured basalt and flood sediment atop the underlying basalt bedrock. The soils of the Goose Gap AVA contain a higher overall percentage of loess, silt, and sand than the soils of the surrounding areas.

The area within the Goose Gap AVA covers a total of 8,129 acres; of these, 1,800 acres (728 ha) are planted to vines. The region is currently home to two commercial vineyards—including the 1,700-acre (688 ha) Goose Ridge Estate Vineyard—and one bonded winery (Goose Ridge Winery). Commercial vineyards specializing in Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot have been planted in the area since 1998. Other forms of agriculture—including apple orchards, cherry orchards, alfalfa fields, and sheep grazing are traditional to the area.

About that name: The new AVA is located along the migratory path of several flocks of wild geese. The local use of the term “Goose Gap” as well as “Goose Hill” can be traced back to the early 1900s. The area bears the tales of many legendary goose hunts from the 1800s; First Peoples are known to have hunted geese in the area as well.

References/for more information:

• Federal Register- Establishment of the Goose Gap AVA
• Petition to Establish the Goose Gap AVA
• Exhibits – Petition to Establish the Goose Gap AVA
• Washington State Wine (washingtonwine.org)

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer Map

On June 17, 2021, the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States approved the Palos Verdes Peninsula AVA. When this new AVA comes into force—on July 19, 2021—the total number of AVAs in the United States will be 255, of which 142 will be in California.

The Palos Verdes Peninsula area—located in the southwestern corner of Los Angeles County—hugs the Pacific Ocean coastline about 25 miles west of downtown Los Angeles. The region includes the cities of Palos Verdes Estates, Rolling Hills Estates, Rancho Palos Verdes, and Rolling Hills, California. The area is highly regarded for its sweeping views of the ocean and the Los Angeles city skyline, gated communities, and high-dollar homes. However, the area has a long history of agriculture—including some viticulture—and wine continues to be produced in the area.

According to the original petition—spearheaded by James York of Catalina View Wines and submitted on behalf of a group of Palos Verdes Peninsula winegrowers—the area’s distinguishing characteristics include its topography, soils, and climate. These are discussed below:

Topography: The area within the Palos Verdes Peninsula AVA consists of low rolling hills (technically part of the Coast Range) situated between the Los Angeles Basin and the Pacific Ocean. Elevations range from sea level (on the region’s western and southern edges) to 1,460 feet/445 m above sea level at San Pedro Hill. Many of the region’s vineyards are planted on moderate south- or southeast-facing slopes. 

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer Map

Soils: The soils of the region include Altamont Clay Adobe, Altamont Clay Loam, and Diablo Clay Adobe. These soils are composed primarily of fine-grained sandstone, weathered shale, silt, and calcareous clay.  These soils retain allow for moisture retention in dry weather while allowing for drainage during rainy times.

Climate: Like many areas of Southern California, the Palos Verdes Peninsula AVA has an overall Mediterranean Climate coupled with the coastal influence of the nearby Pacific Ocean. The area typically experiences warm, dry summers (temperatures rarely exceed 84°F/29°C) and mild winters with limited rainfall.

The Palos Verdes Peninsula AVA includes a total of 15,900 acres; of these, just over 7 acres are currently planted to vines. Two producing wineries—Catalina View Wines and La Caze Family Vineyard—are located within the region. The leading grape varieties include Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot

Welcome to the world, Palos Verdes Peninsula AVA!

References/for more information:

• Federal Register – Establishment of the Palos Verdes Peninsula AVA
• Petition to Establish the Palos Verdes Peninsula AVA
• Palos Verdes as wine region? Jim York wants Peninsula-grown grapes in your glass. – Southbay (goldenstate.is)

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer Map

On June 17, 2021, the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States approved two new American Viticultural Areas (AVAs): the White Bluffs AVA and the Burn of Columbia Valley AVA. When these new AVAs come into force—on July 19, 2021—the total number of AVAs in Washington State will be 18.

This article will focus on the Burn of Columbia Valley AVA. Click here for an article focusing on the While Bluffs AVA.

The Burn of Columbia Valley AVA (a sub-region of the Columbia Valley AVA) is located in the southwest corner of the Columbia Valley AVA, along a stretch of benchland on the north bank of the Columbia River. It is situated between the Horse Heaven Hills AVA (to its east) and the Columbia Gorge AVA (to its west). Its location along the Columbia River places it adjacent to the border between Washington State and Oregon—although it lies 100% in Washington State.

The petition to establish The Burn of Columbia Valley AVA (originally slated as “The Burn”) was submitted by Kevin Corliss of Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, Joan Davenport (Professor of Soil Sciences at Washington State University), and John Derrick of Mercer Ranches. According to the petition, the area’s distinguishing features include its topography, climate, and soils—as discussed below.

Topography: The area within the new AVA is situated on a moderately-elevated, gently sloping benchland above the Columbia River. The (generally) southeast-facing slope averages just over 7% grade.

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer Map

Climate: The area is considered (overall) one of the warmer regions of the Columbia Valley. However, due to the persistent winds from the Columbia Gorge, the heat (as measured by “degree days”) accumulates much more slowly than in the surrounding areas. As a result, the growing season is extended—the grapes in this area are often among the last to be harvested in the state. This lengthy growing season allows for deep flavor development and excellent acid retention in the grapes.

Soils: The soils within the new AVA—dominated by Walla Walla silt loam—are, in many aspects, similar to those of the surrounding areas. However, the soils within The Burn contain a higher proportion of organic matter and lower levels of sand/sandy loam—and, as a result, the soils of The Burn have higher water- and nutrient-retention capacity. This means that the region has a lower need for supplemental irrigation, a lower need for the use of supplemental vine nutrients, and a reduced risk of winter vine injury as compared to the surrounding areas.

The triangle-shaped Burn of Columbia Valley AVA covers a total of 16,870 acres. Of these, approximately 1,500 acres/607 ha have been planted to vines. The region contains two commercial vineyards and no bonded wineries (as of 2021). This is a young growing area; while vines have been planted in the area since 2002, the majority of the vines have been planted since 2015. Cabernet Sauvignon is the leading variety, followed by Syrah, Malbec, Chardonnay, and Sangiovese.

About that name: there is no easy consensus on where the name—The Burn—originated, although there is plenty of evidence that it has been used in reference to the area for generations. The Burn might refer to a local legend that tells of early settlers who set fire to the benchland every fall in order to rejuvenate the native grasses and provide for their horses in the springtime. It could also be based on the Gaelic- German- and English-inspired use of the term burn (as in Bannockburn)—or born (as in Padderborn) or bourne (as in Melbourne)—to refer to a stream or a river.

Welcome to the world: The Burn of Columbia Valley AVA!

P.S. The TTB has also announced a new AVA in California—Palos Verdes Peninsula—to be effective on July 19, 2021. Click here for more details. 

References/for more information:

• Federal Register-Establishment of the Burn of Columbia Valley AVA
• Petition to Establish The Burn of Columbia Valley AVA
• Washington State Wine (washingtonwine.org)

 Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Château d’Amboise

Amboise is a tiny French town situated on the banks of Loire River (about 17 miles/27 km east of Tours) and just a short drive (11 miles/18 km) away from the awe-inspiring Château de Chenonceau.

Despite its small stature, Amboise has a lot going for it. For one, it is home to the Château du Clos Lucé, originally built by the Hugues d’Amboise (nobles of the House of Amboise) in 1471. The Château du Clos Lucé has had several famous occupants, including Leonardo da Vinci who resided in the palace for the last few years of his life. Upon his death in 1519, the great artist was laid to rest in the nearby Chapel of St Florentin. When the Chapel of St. Florentin was razed at the end of the 18^th century, Leonardo’s tomb was moved to the grounds of the Château d’Amboise. (At least that is what most people believe; there are some skeptics.)

Grounds of the Château de Chanteloup

Amboise is also home to what might be the only pagoda ever built on the banks of the Loire—the pagoda of the Château de Chanteloup—and the Parc des Mini-Chateaux—a theme park where you can walk among 40 miniature renditions of the famous castles, gardens, and villas of the Loire.

Amboise is also known for its wine; much of which is bottled under the Touraine-Amboise appellation. Amboise is currently one of the five sub-zones/geographic indications that are allowed to append their name to the Touraine AOC designation—as long as the mandated, specific standards are followed. There are rumors afloat that Amboise will (someday soon) apply for a separate AOC, however, this has not yet approached the national level.

There have, nevertheless, been some recent changes to the rules and regulations concerning the wines of the Touraine-Amboise AOC. These include revisions to the allowed grape varieties, viticultural practices, and character of the finished wine. The most substantive of these changes concern the allowed grape varieties, as follows:

• Varietal composition of red wines: Must be 100% Côt. They take Côt seriously in Amboise and consider it a specific (and historical) local variation of Malbec. Though previously allowed, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Gamay are no longer permitted to be used in the red wines of the Touraine-Amboise AOC.
• Varietal composition of rosé wines: May be produced using any proportion of Côt and/or Gamay. Though previously allowed, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc are no longer permitted to be used in the rosé wines of the Touraine-Amboise AOC.

Map of the Touraine AOC (showing the Amboise subzone) via the INAO

Touraine-Amboise AOC white wines are required to be 100% Chenin Blanc (this standard has not changed).

Note: For the serious wine students in our audience—the other four subzones of the Touraine AOC are as follows: Mesland, Azay-le-Rideau, Oisly, and Chenonceaux.

References/for more information:

• Cahier des Charges Touraine AOC updated April 2021
• Journal of the EU-April 24 2021-regarding Touraine Amboise
• https://www.vitisphere.com/news-88996-Amboise-wines-move-away-from-Touraine.htm
• https://www.amboise-valdeloire.co.uk/destination-amboise/chateaux-and-gardens/parc-mini-chateaux/
• https://www.loirevalley-france.co.uk/outings/gardens/romantic-gardens/pagoda-chanteloup
• https://www.inao.gouv.fr/var/inao_site/storage/repository/editeur/files/pdf/Cartes/AOC_Touraine_A_12062009.pdf

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Map via: https://consorziobardolino.it/

Heads up, wine students of the world! In the April 12, 2021 edition of the Gazzetta Ufficiale della Repubblica Italiana (Official Journal of Italy), it was announced that there have been a few changes made in the rules and regulations of the Bardolino DOC. Bardolino—located on the banks of Lake Garde in Italy’s Veneto—is well-known for its lively red and rosé (chiaretto) wines based on the Corvina grape variety.

The main update involves three new subzones of the Bardolino appellation. These new regions—La Rocca, Montebaldo, and Sommacampagna—have been approved for use upon the release of the region’s 2018 vintage. The previously existing Bardolino Classico subzone will remain in place and is unaffected by the changes.

According to the website of the Consorzio di Tutela Chiaretto e del Bardolino, the newly approved subzones represent a historical view of region. These areas have been recognized since the 19^th century, when they were documented by a local scholar known as Giovanni Battista Perez. These subzones were not, however, written into the original specification of the Bardolino DOC (first established in 1968).

Here is some information about each of the new subzones:

Bardolino-La Rocca takes up the entirety of the area adjacent to Lake Garda, and represents the ancient district of Bardolino, which has ties to the Roman Empire and was mentioned in the 12^th century as a free commune. In the 1200s, the area was expanded and fortified under the “protection” of the Scaligeri of Verona; after the fall of the Scaligeri the area become part of the Republic of Venice.

Map indicating the (previously existing) Bardolino Classico subregion

Bardolino-Montebaldo encompasses the area of the eastern foothills of Monte Baldo Mountain Range. The Monte Baldo Range—part of the larger Garda Mountains—is basically a mid-level ridge running parallel to (and east of) to Lake Garda for about 25 miles (40 km).  The area around the Monte Baldo Mountains is often called “the Garden of Europe” due to the incredible plant biodiversity (and copious beautiful wildflowers) of the area.

Bardolino-Sommacampagna accounts for the rolling hills in the southern reaches of the district.  The area takes its name from the commune of Sommacampagna, located in the southeast of the zone.

Note: As with all such updates, this change will need to wind its way through EU approval; however, as the Italian government has granted their approval, we should begin to see the new subzones appear on wine labels with the release of the wines of the 2018 vintage.

References/for more information:

• Bardolino subzones-announcement in Gazzetta Ufficiale
• Map of the new subzones of Bardolino (pdf, via the Consorzio)
• Website of the Consorzio di Tutela Chiaretto d del Bardolino https://consorziobardolino.it/
• https://ilgardaonline.it/en/listings/monte-baldo/
• https://www.bardolinoitaly.com/history.php

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Graphic via https://www.germanwines.de/

Ask any wine student, and they will be eager to tell you: German wines are confusing. When you consider the combination of gothic-style script on labels, overlapping levels of the Prädikat, and a seemingly never-ending list of places-of-origin (only some of which are government-approved and therefore considered official)—most wine educators would agree.

Hang on to your hats, wine lovers, because the categorization and classification of German wines is about to change, and it is yet to be seen whether these changes will make the study of German wines easier, or even more (shall we say) complex.

Before we dive in, take heart: these changes are still in the works. While producers can implement the changes immediately, they are not required to do so until the 2025 vintage—and there is still quite a bit of regulatory work to be done. Nevertheless, here is what has been announced so far:

The hierarchy (and label terminology) for Prädikatswein—based on ripeness levels (must concentration) at harvest—will remain unchanged.

A new system (hierarchy)—based on geography and the philosophy of the smaller the area, the higher the quality—will come into force. This geography-based set of classifications will apply to PDO (protected designation of origin) wines only—both still and sparkling—and may be used for both Qualitätswein and Prädikatswein.

This geography-based hierarchy is not entirely new; current students of wine will recall the four levels of German wine place-of-origin categories—Anbaugebiete (area), Bereiche (region), Grosslagen (village), Einzellagen (vineyard)—currently in use. This new system changes the terminology up a bit, adds a few levels of specificity, AND allows for the regulation of grape varieties and wine styles at the higher levels. (Specific information on what these regulations will be is to-be-determined and is expected to be released over the next few months/years.)

Here is the new categorization of German wine place-of-origin terms, in order from largest (and—theoretically, less specific in qualifications and lowest in quality) to smallest (and—theoretically, with the most specific qualification and highest in quality).

• Anbaugebiet (area): This refers to Germany’s 13 quality wine regions (Anbaugebiete) and has not changed. Grapes may be grown in any part of the area, and the wine will carry the name of the area—such as Mosel, Rheinhessen, or Pflaz—on the label.
• Region: Each Anbaugebiet will be broken down in several specified areas (such as those previously referred to as Bereiche or Grosslagen). These regions will span several political areas such as communes or districts.
• Ortsweine (village): Named for a specific village; must reflect the typical grape varieties and wine style of the village. These wines must be produced from grapes harvested at least the Kabinett-level of ripeness and may not be sold before December 15 of the harvest year.
• Einzellage (vineyard): These wines must be produced in accordance with the grape varieties and wine styles typical of the vineyard. In addition, all wines at this level of the hierarchy (and above) must be made from grapes that are harvested at the ripeness/must concentration threshold as defined for the area’s Kabinett level grapes (or higher). The name of the Einzellage (vineyard) must appear on the wine label alongside the name of the region. These wines may not be sold before March 1 of the year following the harvest.
• Erstes Gewächs: This designation is made for a sub-plot of a vineyard and comes with a long list of qualifications, which may include specific grape varieties, methods of production, sensory characteristics, and limits on yield. This category is reserved for dry wines made from a single grape variety only. The quality level may be thought of as the “second-highest ranking” in the area, such as is reserved for Burgundy’s Premier Cru vineyards.  These wines must be vintage-dated and may not be sold before March 1 of the year following the harvest.
• Grosses Gewächs: This designation may be considered the highest level in the category (similar to the Grand Cru vineyards of Burgundy). The qualifications are also steep—in addition to regulations on grape varieties, production methods, and sensory characteristics—the wine must be dry; and it must be produced from a single vineyard, a single grape variety, and a single vintage year. At this level, white may be sold after September 1st of the year following harvest, and red wines may not be sold until June 1st of the second year after harvest.
  • Smaller plots of land known as Gewannen (singular: Gewann) may also be defined within the Erstes Gewächs or the Grosses Gewächs.

Side note: according to the press release linked below, “Associations that already use the terms Grosses Gewächs and Erstes Gewächs may continue to use them if they meet certain minimum requirements from the wine ordinance, for example with regard to grape varieties, yields, harvest regulations or the taste profile.”

Reference/for more information:

• Press release from Wines of Germany (in English)

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org