Mini Updates from the World of Wine and Spirits

Europe Map with Famous Landmarks.Attention, flashcard brigade! The EU has recently approved a few updates to their wine and spirit regulations. While none of these seem to be too earth-shattering, they are certainly worth a look.

Production update in Cognac:  The Cahier des Charges for the Cognac AOC has been updated to allow for the new-make spirit taken off the still after the second distillation run (la deuxième chauffe or bonne chauffe) to have a maximum of 73.7% alcohol by volume. This was raised from the previous maximum of 72.4% due to hausse des températures du fait du changement climatique ce qui entraine une augmentation du taux alcoométrique volumique des vins (“rising temperatures due to climate change, which leads to an increase in the alcoholic strength by volume of the base wine”).

Name change in Emilia-Romagna: The Colli Bolognesi Classico Pignoletto DOCG—created in 2010 for white and sparkling wines made from a minimum of 85% Pignoletto Grapes (also known as Grechetto Gentile)—has dropped the term “Classico” from its title. These styles of wine—from the appellation now known simply as the Colli Bolognesi Pignoletto DOCG—are a mainstay of the region, and were previously produced under the Colli Bolognesi DOC. As befits the name, the Colli Bolognesi Pignoletto DOCG is located somewhat in the center of Emilia-Romagna and surrounds the city of Bologna.

Name change in Veneto: The Bianca di Custoza DOC—located on the southeastern tip of Lake Garda and just south of Bardolino—has officially changed its name to Custoza DOC. (Two names—Bianca di Custoza DOC and Custoza DOC were previously recognized, but a recent legal decree changed the title permanently to Custoza.) The appellation is currently approved for a range of white wines (dry, sweet, and sparkling) based around a blend of white grapes featuring Cortese, Friulano, Garganega, and/or Trebbiano Toscano. The name change could imply a future move to include other styles of wine in the appellation’s production—we will have to keep an eye out for any such developments.

New Spirit GI: Italy has earned GI recognition for Grappa della Valle d’Aosta (aka Grappa de la Vallée d’Aoste), a pomace spirit produced grapes grown (and wine produced) anywhere within the province of Valle d’Aosta. Grappa della Valle d’Aosta may be bottled unaged or it may be oak-aged. This product is quite interesting as it is allowed to contain limited amounts of honey and may be flavored with local botanicals—such as juniper and artemisia—based on local traditios. Grappa della Valle d’Aosta is Italy’s tenth appellation dedicated to grappa. Other regions with specifically defined appellations for grappa include Barolo, Sicily, Lombardy, Friuli, Trentino, Veneto, Alto Adige, and Piedmont.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Welcome to the World, Osttiroler Pregler!

Photo via: https://spirits.eu/

Photo via: https://spirits.eu/

The world just gained another geographical indication for spirits (as defined and protected by the European Union), and this makes for a total of 256!

The new spirit—technically classified as a fruit spirit, although Americans might be tempted to refer to it as apple and pear brandy—is know as Osttiroler Pregler. In plain language, it is an apple-and-pear distillate produced in the East Tyrol, Austria.

As is expected of a product protected by a geographical indication, there is a lengthy list of rules and regulations that must be followed in order for a product to be awarded the name of Osttiroler Pregler GI. These include the following:

  • It must be fermented and distilled in the political region of Lienz (East Tyrol), from fruit grown within the defined region.
  • The allowed base ingredients include apples and pears. In some cases, locally grown plums may also be included.
  • It must be bottled at a minimum of 40% abv.
  • It must be dry; sugar may be present only to a maximum level of 4 g/L.
  • It must be clear and colorless in appearance.
  • The newly distilled spirit must be aged for a minimum of four weeks in inert (stainless steel or glass) containers; oak contact of any kind is prohibited.
  • The predominant aroma and flavor must be of apples; pear flavors must remain in the background. Other background aromas and flavors typical include flowers, banana, apple peel, dried pear, and (if plums are used) almond.

Map OsttirolaEast Tyrol (German: Osttirol)—sometimes known as “the roof of Austria—is tucked into the Central Eastern Alps and contains the highest mountains in the country. The region includes Austria’s highest peak—the Grossglockner—topping out at 12,461 feet/3,798 meters above sea level). The region includes the district of Lienz as well as the market town of Matrei in Osttirol. The name Osttirol—referring to the mountains of Tyrol—is included in the geographical indication of the new product (which may be referred to as simply Pregler or Osttiroler Pregler.

Fruit orchards—including apples, pears, and plums—are traditional to East Tyrol. Literature proclaiming the beauty of the produce of Lienz dates back as far 1588, when the poem Der fürstlichen Grafschaft Tyrol Landtreim (Rhyme of the Princely County of Tyrol) extolled the quality of the apples of the region.

Welcome to the world, Osttiroler Pregler!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

 

 

New for 2021—Standards for Japanese Whisky

Miyagikyo Distillery in Sendai Japan

Miyagikyo Distillery in Sendai Japan

While it has been something of a well-kept secret, the truth remains: some of the Japanese whisky sold in your neighborhood liquor stores may not have been produced in Japan. Under (previous) standards, it is possible that your Japanese whisky (whiskey) was a blend containing a base whisky made in Scotland (or elsewhere) or blended with a portion of non-grain-based spirit. In addition, it may have been aged for a noticeably short period of time. (Important note: this does not apply to all—or even most—Japanese whisky, but the possibility is out there.)

However, as of April 1, 2021, a new set of rules, as defined by Japan Spirits & Liqueurs Makers Association, will come into force for its association members. Please note that these rules are not the result of legislation and are therefore not legally enforced by government entities. However, many whisky producers in Japan are indeed members of the association and will therefore be in observance. Producers will have until March 31, 2024 to bring all their products into compliance.

These new regulations include the following standards for Japanese Whisky:

  • Base ingredients: limited to malted grains, other cereal grains, and water extracted in Japan. Malted grains must always be used.
  • Production process: saccharification, fermentation, and distillation must be carried out at a distillery in Japan.
  • Aging: the spirit must be aged in Japan in wooden casks (maximum capacity of 700 liters) for a minimum of 3 years
  • Bottling proof: minimum 40% abv
  • Additives: caramel coloring is allowed
'From the Barrel' Nikka whiskey

‘From the Barrel’ Nikka whiskey

Products in compliance with the new regulations will be labeled with the term “Japanese Whisky” (or “Japanese Whiskey”) with no additional verbiage placed between the two words. In addition, products must comply with the new rules to use any of the following on the label: geographic locations in Japan, pictures of the Japanese flag, names of people that evoke Japan, terms associated with the history of Japan, or the names of Japanese rivers or mountains.

Products that continue to contain sprits not produced in Japan may be labeled as “world blends” or “world whisky.” Alternatively, they may remain unspecific as to origin.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Nathan “Nearest” Green, Master Distiller

Photo of Jack Daniels with George Green (Nearest Green's son) via: https://www.jackdaniels.com/en-us/vault

Photo of Jack Daniels with George Green (Nearest Green’s son) via: https://www.jackdaniels.com/en-us/vault

Within the world of spirits, students and connoisseurs alike quickly learn that the story and history of a spirit, the lore behind the bottle, can be as compelling as the actual beverage. Knowing about the people that spent their lives making the products we love allows us to feel connected to them and the entire tradition around those drinks. However, it is very often the case that we do not have the entire story. It takes the work of historians and writers to uncover the stories behind the stories. It took this kind of work to bring one remarkable man out of the shadows of history and into the light of the present day – Nathan “Nearest” Green or as he was known to his friends and family “Uncle Nearest.”

Nearest Green was born into slavery sometime in the early 1800s. The history of his early life is hard to piece together, but by the mid-1800s he was held by a company called Landis & Green which would hire out Green’s labor. Lutheran Minister Dan Call hired Nearest in the 1850s through this company. Call ran a farm, a successful general store, and a still in Lois, TN, just outside of Lynchburg. From all available accounts, Nearest acted as the head distiller for the operation, which was not an uncommon role for enslaved African Americans throughout America.

After working and running the still for Call for some time, a pre-teen Jack Daniels arrived at the operation intent on learning how to make whiskey. Call referred to Nearest as the “best whiskey maker” he knew, making him an ideal mentor for the young Daniels. The two spent years working side by side, making whiskey throughout the entire course of the Civil War. Nearest’s enslavement formally ended with the passage of the 13th Amendment, and after which he chose to continue working with Daniels and Call. By the late 1860s the whiskey business was thriving and after Call had a crisis of conscience he sold his stake to Daniels which resulted in the creation of the Jack Daniel Distillery. Nearest became its first head distiller, the equivalent to a modern-day master distiller.

Nearest worked alongside Jack Daniels for many years, up until his retirement in the 1880s. His career and success made him one of the wealthiest men in Lynchburg and his dedication to distillation became a family tradition. His sons, George and Eli, went to work for Daniels, as well as several of his grandchildren. Ultimately, over the past century and a half, seven generations of Green’s descendants have worked for the Jack Daniels distillery.

Original office building on the grounds of the Jack Daniel's Distillery (Lynchburg, Tennessee)

Original office building on the grounds of the Jack Daniel’s Distillery (Lynchburg, Tennessee)

Nearest Green’s story was common knowledge to the families of Lynchburg. Past historians also knew of his contributions to Tennessee and American whiskey. Yet it was not until a few years ago that the man and legend of Nearest Green entered the mainstream public consciousness – primarily through the work of author Fawn Weaver. Over the course of a year of research, Weaver assembled the facts and pieces of Nearest’s life, spending countless hours interviewing his descendants and the people of Lynchburg. Through oral history, historic records, and artifacts, we now have a more complete look at the early days of Jack Daniels and the indispensable impact Nearest had upon it.

The legacy of Nearest Green is preserved today in several ways. There’s a non-profit organization, the Nearest Green Foundation, dedicated to preserving and sharing the history of Nearest. There’s also a scholarship program, the Nearest Green Legacy Scholarship, dedicated to helping provide educational opportunities to descendants of Nearest. And, perhaps most famously, the Tennessee whiskey brand, Uncle Nearest, that bears his name in tribute to his achievements as an African American distiller in the nineteenth-century.

About the author: Ben Coffelt, CSS, CSW serves as a Sales Director for the Society of Wine Educators (SWE). Originally from California, Ben Coffelt started his wine and spirits career leading customer tastings and staff trainings at Trader Joe’s. His love of history drives his interests, and he’s always eager to learn about a new place, person, or product. He can often be found sipping rum with his French Bulldog, Hobbes.

References/for more information:

A Toast to Bobby Burns on Burns Night

Portrait of Robert Burns by Alexander Nasmyth (1787) - Scottish Natinal Portrait Gallery (Image: public domain)

Portrait of Robert Burns by Alexander Nasmyth (1787) – Scottish Natinal Portrait Gallery (Image: public domain)

Robert Burns was born on January 25, 1759 and passed way—far too soon—on July 21, 1796. Burns, often referred to as the National Poet of Scotland, was a prolific poet and lyricist who created more than 700 works throughout his life. He is perhaps best-known as the author of “Auld Lang Syne,” “My Luve is like a Red Red Rose,”and “Tam o’ Shanter.”

On the fifth anniversary of his death, a group of Burns’ friends gathered in his childhood home town of Alloway for a memorial supper. It must have been quite a dinner, as a variation of Burns Nicht (Burns Night) has been celebrated every year since. These days, Burns Night is often recognized on January 25—the poet’s birthday.

Burns Night is typically celebrated with an elaborate, ceremonial Burns Supper consisting of bagpipes, blessings, multiple courses of Scottish dishes, the formal presentation of the haggis (the main course), and—of course—recitations and other performances of the famous poets works.

The Burns Monument in his hometown of Alloway, Scotland

The Burns Monument in his hometown of Alloway, Scotland

Throughout the event, there are multiple toasts and speeches accompanied by Scotland’s famous water of life—Scotch whisky. Choose your favorite: Johnnie Walker, Dewar’s, and Ballantine’s are among the top-selling brands. In my house, we typically reach for Macallen 12 year (his favorite) or Glengoyne 21 year (her top choice).

Or, perhaps you’d prefer to toast with a Bobby Burns Cocktail made with Scotch, red vermouth, and Bénédictine? Don’t forget the lemon peel garnish.

If you’d like to have a Robert Burns celebration of your own, here are a few links to his famous works (via the BBC website). After a few nights of practice, you should be ready for the party—just don’t forget the Scotch whisky.

What will you be serving for Burns Night this year?

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

New for Norway: Norsk Vodka and Norsk Akvavit PGI

Photo via the EC: https://ec.europa.eu/info/food-farming-fisheries

Photo via the EC: https://ec.europa.eu/info/food-farming-fisheries

It is a good day to celebrate in Norway—the European Union has granted approval for two new Protected Geographical Indications (PGIs) for the distinctive spirit drinks of Norway: Norsk Vodka (Norwegian Vodka) and Norsk Akvavit (Norwegian Aquavit).

Norsk Vodka is defined as a “clear, transparent and colorless” spirit, bottled at a minimum of 37.5% abv (products up to 60% abv are also allowed). It must be produced using potatoes or grains as its base ingredient, and it must be mashed, fermented, and distilled within the borders of the Kingdom of Norway. It is, however, allowed to be diluted (with water) and bottled outside of the country.

One interesting part of the EU standard is that Norsk Vodka must be fermented using cultivated yeast as opposed to spontaneous fermentation. The use of cultivated yeast produces a base ferment that is low in congeners. Another part of the regulation states that the spirit must be distilled to a minimum of 96% abv (192°). According to the technical file, these factors combine to create a clean, fresh-tasting finished product free of the “burning aftertaste” that sometimes accompanies a shot of vodka.

With the approval of Norsk Vodka, there are now six countries with PGI status for their distinctive vodka: Norway, Poland, Sweden, Finland, Lithuania, and Estonia.

Photo via the EC: https://ec.europa.eu/info/food-farming-fisheries

Photo via the EC: https://ec.europa.eu/info/food-farming-fisheries

A PGI for Norsk Akvavit (which may also be referred to as Norsk Akevitt, Norsk Aquavit, or Norwegian Aquavit) was also approved this week. Norsk Akvavit may be bottled at a variety of strengths, ranging from 37.5% to 60% alcohol by volume. Potatoes are the only allowed base ingredient, and a minimum of 95% of the potatoes must be of Norwegian origin.

The main flavorings must be derived from caraway or dill, and the product should contain specific amounts of the flavor-rich substances limonene (reminiscent of citrus) and carvone (found in caraway, dill, and spearmint). Other botanicals may be used to flavor Norsk Akvavit, including (but not limited to) aniseed, celery seed, chamomile, coriander seed, fennel seed, grains of paradise, dried lemon peel, dried bitter orange peel, and star anise.

After flavoring, the Norsk Akvavit must spend a minimum of 6 months in oak casks (provided the casks are smaller than 1,000 liters in volume), or 12 months minimum in larger casks.  It is traditional to age the akvavit in barrels that previously held fermented beverages such as Sherry, Madeira, and Port wine; however, new barrels are also allowed. As a result, Norsk Akvavit may be bottled in a range of colors from water-white to dark amber.

Raise a glass to Norway!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Modern Vodka for Canada: Canada Updates its 60-year-old Vodka Standards

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Effective today (June 26, 2019), the government of Canada has updated its labeling laws for vodka. This is the first change in the country’s laws regarding vodka since 1959. The change was announced via publication in the Canada Gazette, Part II, Volume 153, Number 13.

These new laws—as set forth in the Food and Drug Regulations of Canada—include the following standards:

  • Canadian vodka may be produced from cereal grains, potatoes, or other agricultural products such as fruit, dairy products, or honey
  • If produced from a base ingredient other than potatoes or grains, it must be stated on the label using terminology such as “vodka produced from grapes” or a phrase such as “produced from apples” in close proximity to the term “Vodka” on the label
  • Canadian vodka should be rendered neutral (without distinctive character, aroma, or taste) during its production process, which may include (but does not require) charcoal filtration.

These new standards are an update of the previous laws, which permitted Canadian Vodka to be produced using potatoes or cereal grains only, and required that all Canadian vodka undergo charcoal-filtration.

It is expected that these new laws will encourage innovation in the Canadian distilling industry while facilitating international trade.

Sounds like today is a great day to taste-test some Canadian vodka! May I recommend Crystal Head Vodka (Dan Aykroyd will thank you), Iceberg Vodka, or perhaps a dry martini made with Polar Ice?

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

References/for more information:

 

Big News: The EU Publishes the 2019 Spirit Drinks Regulations

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Big news! After years of parliamentary debate, the new spirits regulations of the EU—known as the rules regarding the “Scope, Definition, and Categories” of Spirits Drinks—has been published in the Official Journal of the European Union (May 17, 2019). These new rules will apply beginning on May 25, 2021.

The most interesting updates (imho) are those that implement some limits on the inclusion of sugar or other sweeteners. For instance:

  • Vodka “may be sweetened in order to round off the final taste. However, the final product may not contain more than 8 grams of sweetening products per litre.”
  • Rum “Rum may be sweetened in order to round off the final taste. However, the final product may not contain more than 20 grams of sweetening products per litre.”
  • Whisky (whiskey) was never allowed to contain sweeteners under the EU laws, however, the new regulation states it quite clearly: “Whisky or whiskey shall not be sweetened, even for rounding off the taste, or flavoured, or contain any additives other than plain caramel used for adjusting the colour.”

The new laws also provide the following definition of “single malt” whisky: “The legal name of ‘whisky’ or ‘whiskey’ may be supplemented by the term ‘single malt’ only if it has been distilled exclusively from malted barley at a single distillery.”

In addition, under the new regulations, there will be 44 categories of EU spirits. (Under the previous regulations, there were 46.) The changes to the categories include the following:

  • Category 13: The name “Bierbrand or eau de vie de bière” has been updated to read “Beer Spirit”
  • Category 28: The spirit known as “Anis” may also be known as “janeževec”
  • Category 32: A category for “Sloe-aromatised spirit drink” or “Pacharán” has been added
  • The separate category for Crème de cassis has been eliminated, but the product has been added to the discussion of Category 14 “Crème de (supplemented by the name of a fruit or other raw material used)”
  • The separate product categories for Guignolet and Punch au rhum have been eliminated, but definitions for these products have been added to the category of liqueurs (category 33)

The following specific rules are also noted:

  • Rum-Verschnitt is a product of Germany made by mixing rum with neutral spirits.
  • Slivovice, produced in Czechia, is a blend of plum spirit (plum brandy) and neutral spirits.
  • Guignolet Kirsch, produced in France, is a mixture of guignolet and kirsch.

These laws do not change the current geographical indications of any spirits; all PGI- and PDO-designated spirits remain as such.

It will be fascinating to see how these new rules affect the spirit drinks we know and love!

If you are so inclined, you may read all 127 pages of the new regulations here: New Spirits Drinks Regulations EU May 2019

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles, your blog administrator

 

Conference Recap: Specifically Spirits

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The SWE crew is just back from our first-ever “Specifically Spirits” mini-conference (held in Washington DC on April 26, 2019), and we are pleased to declare it a great success! We’d like to thank our attendees, many of whom were first-time participants in an SWE program. For those of you who couldn’t make it, here are a few of the highlights.

First up: “Herbs and Flowers, Weeds and Seeds: The Beauty of Botanicals” presented by Jane A. Nickles, CSE, CWE (yours truly). This session presented six botanically-infused spirits, while concentrating on the botanical components themselves. Attendees were each provided with nine (super-cute) labeled jars containing the botanicals and were encouraged to sniff, crush, and taste each one. The featured botanicals included juniper berry, coriander seed, angelica root, orris root, cardamom, cubeb berry, bergamot, rose hips, and allspice.

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Each botanical was introduced along with a little bit of scientific (botanical) information, its typical aroma/taste profile, and bits of its local lore. For instance, did you know that allspice is named for its aromas (described as a cross between cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, and clove), but was originally believed to be black pepper—which is while it is often referred to as pimento or pimienta? Or that orris root is the dried root of the lovely iris flower?

The spirits (and botanicals) tasted included the following: Bluecoat American Dry Gin (featuring juniper berry, coriander seed, and angelica root), Drumshanbo Slow Distilled Gunpowder Irish Gin (featuring orris root and cardamom), Bobby’s Schiedam Dry Gin (featuring cubeb berry), Sacred Rosehip cup (featuring rosehips), and Italicus Rosolio di Bergamotto (featuring Bergamotto di Reggio-Calabria). Attendees were gifted a “botanical aroma kit” featuring 10 glass vials with aromatic botanicals as well as a selection of botanical teas and candies.

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Next up was “American Spirit,” presented by Ben Coffelt, CSW and Shields Hood, CSS, CWE. This session traced the history of the United States along with the history of American whiskey. Here’s how Shields and Ben describe the session: George Washington’s presidency. The Civil War. The Railroad. The Industrial Revolution. World War II. Through almost every step of the American journey, one spirit has been our constant companion: whiskey. From early Monongahela ryes to our modern finished bourbons, attendees will learn about the role whiskey has played in American culture and history.

The whiskeys that were presented (and tasted) included the following: Henry McKenna 10 Year Single Barrel Bottled-in-Bond Kentucky Straight Bourbon, Old Forester 1920 Prohibition Style Kentucky Straight Bourbon, Jack Daniel’s Sinatra Select Tennessee Whiskey, Whistle Pig 10 Year Straight Rye Whiskey, and Wild Turkey Master’s Keep Revival Kentucky Straight Bourbon.

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Following lunch, attendees were treated to a session by the name of “That’s the Spirit 2019,” presented by Trudy Thomas, CSE, CSW. Trudy is the Director of Beverage operations at the Gaylord Opryland Resort and Conference Center, and her session revolved around the latest trends that she has observed throughout the resort’s more than twenty food and beverage outlets, as well as her in-depth knowledge of the industry as a whole.

The trends (and spirits) that were featured in Trudy’s session included the following: craft vermouth (featuring Trincheri Sweet Vermouth), drinking globally (featuring Roku Gin), American brandy (featuring Copper & Kings Brandy American Craft Brandy), private barrel programs (featuring Casa Noble Single Barrel Reposado Tequila), and the importance of the story behind the pour (featuring Piggyback Rye).

Our final session of the day was “Cognac: a Culmination of Excellence,” presented by Hugh Lander, CSS. Cognac has long had the reputation as the “king of brandies,” and its quality and complexity place it alongside the finest of fine whiskies. This information-packed session discussed just what it is that makes cognac unique among spirits—starting with the region, the climate, the crus, and the soils.

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Hugh was able to break down the seemingly complicated aging requirements for cognac, and the audience was fascinated to learn that the reason some aging designations are in English (such as VSOP – “very special old pale”) rather than French is that England was historically considered the main market for cognac—and even today a huge majority of cognac is exported (and not consumed by the French)! To wrap it up, we discussed how the numerous regulations cognac must adhere to are actually the result of centuries of best practice in winemaking, distillation, and aging. The cognacs sipped along the way included Courvoisier VS, Remy Martin VSOP, Remy Martin 1738 Accord Royal, and Remy Martin XO.

An hors d’oeuvre reception and walk-around tasting featuring a range of spirits as well as local distilleries provided the capstone to the day. Featured distilleries included One Eight Distilling (Washington DC), Catoctin Creek Distilling Company (Purcellville, VA), Falls Church Distillers (Falls Church, VA), New Columbia Distilling (Green Hat Gin/Washington DC), Republic Restoratives (Washington DC), and KO Distilling (Manassas, VA). In addition, the lovely Sharron McCarthy was on hand to pour a delicious and minty Florio Fernet from Sicily, Sartori di Verona Villa Marzia Limoncello, and Castello Banfi Tuscan Grappa.

And a good time was had by all!

Cubeb Berry: It’s in your Gin

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I first encountered cubeb berries (pronounced kyoo-beb) at the Genius Gin Distillery in Austin. Our gin tour-and-tasting included a bit of a show-and-tell with various gin botanicals. My little group and I were quite impressed with ourselves as we readily recognized juniper berries, coriander seed, angelica root, cardamom, lime leaf, and lavender. And then there was this little bowl of what can only be described as “pepper with a tiny tail.” Not a one of us recognized it as cubeb berry.

As it turns out, our cutesy description made perfect sense, as cubeb berry (or cubeb pepper) is often called “Tailed Pepper” or “Java Pepper.”  Cubeb berries are produced from the unripened fruit of the Piper cubeba plant, a tropical climbing vine grown in Indonesia (primarily Java and Sumatra). The unripe fruit is left to dry, with the resulting product (cubebs) resembling a wrinkled black peppercorn with a cute little tail.

Piper cubeba, from Köhler's Medicinal Plants (1887—public domain)

Piper cubeba, from Köhler’s Medicinal Plants (1887—public domain)

Throughout history, the highly aromatic cubeb berries have been put to many uses, including perfume, medicine, and even cigarettes. Marshall’s Prepared Cubeb Cigarettes—which must have been something akin to clove cigarettes—was a popular American brand (back in the day).

Cubeb berries are also used in the culinary arts, and are described as aromatic, camphorous, slightly bitter, peppery (of course), and reminiscent of clove, nutmeg, and allspice.  They are often used in spice mixtures (primarily in Southeast Asia) and curries, and also pair well with roast meat, sausages, and charcuterie.

These days, the cubeb berry is becoming well-known for its use in gin. When distilled, the resulting flavor is often described as spicy-peppery-piquant (as would be expected). A gentler process (compounding or maceration) is equally likely to reveal monoterpene-based floral notes such as rose or lavender as well as a warm, earthy character.

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As most gin lovers know, in addition to the ubiquitous juniper berry, coriander seed and angelica root are the most widely-used gin botanicals. Cubeb berries might not even make the top ten list; but if you are a fan of Hendrick’s gin, Poetic License Gin, Blue Bottle Gin, Genius Gin, Valone Premium Pacific Gin, East London Dry Gin, or Bombay Sapphire…it’s in your gin.

References: for more information:

  • https://www.spicejungle.com/cubeb-berries
  • https://www.ginfoundry.com/botanicals/cubeb/

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator

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