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New Rules (in the New Year) for Cava!

  By admin | June 16, 2021 - 10:33 am | ,
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A typical New Year's Eve in Madrid ©Semmickphoto/123RF.COM

A typical New Year’s Eve in Madrid ©Semmickphoto/123RF.COM

When the clock strikes midnight on December 31 and we roll over into the new year of 2022, the wines of Cava will begin a new era—as a set of updates and revisions to the Cava regulations come into force.

These updates—centered on specificity in geographic indications as well as new aging tiers—have been in the works for years; and were first approved by the Consejo Regulador of the Cava DO (Denominación de Origen) back in 2019. Along with their publication in Spain’s Boletín Oficial del Estado (BOE/Official Gazette of Spain) on June 15, 2021, they are set to come into force as of January 1, 2022.

A new tier of aged wines—tied to some specific qualitative guidelines has been introduced. This tier includes the following designations:

  • Cava de Guarda, requiring at least nine months of again on the lees and that the wine be traceable from the vineyard to the bottle
  • Cava de Guarda Superior, requiring at least 18 months on the lees as well as the following standards:
    • The vines must be at least 10 years old
    • The grapes must be grown organically (granted with a five-year period allowed for transition)
    • Maximum yield: 10,000 kg/ha
    • The wine must be traceable from the vineyard to the bottle
    • It must be vintage-dated

The regulations for Cava Reserva also have been changed; Cava Reserva will now need a minimum of 18 months aging on the lees (up from the previous minimum of 15 months).

The regulations for Cava Gran Reserva (requiring a minimum 30 months of aging on the lees) and Cava de Paraje Calificado (produced using grapes grown in a recognized vineyard and aged on the less for a minimum of 36 months) have not changed.

Map via the CAVA DO: www.cava.wine/en

Map via the CAVA DO: www.cava.wine/en

In addition, these new changes bring some long-awaited specificity to the geographical definition of Cava. This is exciting because it represents the first time that Cava will be allowed to list a specific place-of-origin (aside from just the far-flung “Cava” designation) on the label. These new geographical indications include four basic zones:  Comtats de Barcelona, Valle de Ebro (Ebro Valley), Viñedos de Almendralejo, and Levante.

Here is a bit of detail about each of these zones:

  • Comtats de Barcelona: This zone covers wine produced in Catalonia, representing as much as 95% of the total production of Cava. The area contains five (very terroir-specific) sub-zones: Valls d’Anoia-Foix, Serra de Mar, Conca del Gaia, Serra de Prades and Pla de Ponent.
  • Valle de Ebro (Ebro Valley): This zone—the northernmost of the Cava DO—is tucked between several mountain ranges and lies alongside the Ebro River (overlapping a portion of the Rioja DOCa). There are two sub-zones: Alto Ebro and Valle del Cierzo.
  • Viñedos de Almendralejo: This small area follows the borders of Almendralejo, a town in the Extremadura region. This area is located quite a way inland—close to the Portuguese border—and represents the area furthest southwest in the Cava D.O.
  • Levante: This area—located in eastern Spain on a high plateau in the province of Valencia—follows the borders of the town of Requena. (Note: the name Levante is considered temporary, so we may have another update soon!)

The website of the Consejo Regulador de Cava has some excellent, sub-zone-specific maps.

The Cava DO has also announced that more changes are in the works—specifically, that all top-tier Cava (including Cava Reserva, Cava Gran Reserva and Cava de Paraje Calificado) will be 100% organic by 2025. We will keep an eye on that!

Note: As with all such updates, this change will need to wind its way through EU approval; however, as the Spanish government has granted their approval, the changes will be in force (as scheduled) on January 1, 2022. If the EU fails to approve the amendment, the regulation will be rescinded (although this is quite unlikely to happen).

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

 

 

It’s Official: Twelve Cava de Paraje Calificado Zones Announced!

  By admin | July 18, 2017 - 9:24 am | ,
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Photo via: http://www.docava.es/en/gallery/ii-excellence-cava-awards/

Photo via: http://www.docava.es/en/gallery/ii-excellence-cava-awards/

Update—November 22, 2017: Of the 12 estates originally listed, only 9 passed the final quality control process and will be producing Cava de Paraja Calificado this year. The 9 estates are: Argicola Casa Sala, Alta Alella, Cordoníu, Gramona, Juvé Y Camps, Recardo, Sabaté i Coca, Torelló, and Vins el Cep. 

Last week, on July 13, 2017, Isabel García Tejerina —the Spanish Minister of Agriculture, Fishing, Food and the Environment—announced the first 12 zones to have earned the designation of Cava de Paraje Calificado (Qualified Estate [Zone] of Cava).

The first 12 designated zones and the anticipated wines are as follows. It is a bit confusing as the name of the zone is sometimes/sometimes not the same as the proposed name of the wine, but we’ve tried to make it clear. In any case, the name of the zone is listed first (and highlighted in bold), followed by the name(s) of the wines, and then the producer.  Links are provided for all the producers.

  • Torelló Zone, the name of the wines are Gran Torelló and 225—produced by Can Martí de Baix
  • Turó d’en Mota Zone, the name of the wine is Turó d’en Mota—produced by Recardo
  • Serrall del Vell Zone, the name of the wine is Serral del Vell— produced by Recardo  
  • Vallcierera Zone, the name of the wine is Mirgin—produced by Alta Alella  
  • La Capella Zone, the name of the wine is La Capella—produced by Juvé & Camps
  • Can Sala Zone, the name of the wine is Casa Sala—produced by Agrícola Casa Sala/Freixenet
  • La Pleta Zone, the name of the wine is La Pleta—produced by Codorníu
  • El Tros Nou Zone, the name of the wine is El Tros Nou—produced Codorníu
  • La Fideuera Zone, the name of the wine is La Fideuera—produced by Codorníu
  • Claror Zone, the name of the wine is Can Prats—produced by Vins el Cep
  • Font de Jui Zone, the name of the wines are Enoteca, Cellar Batlle, and Ill Lustros—produced by Gramona
  • Terroja Zone, the name of the wine is Sabaté i Coca Reserva Familiar—produced by Sabaté i Coca/Castellroig

The newly-designated wines are scheduled to hit the market towards the end of 2017; it seems the last step in the process is the design and approval of new labels to designate the Cavas de Paraje Calificado status of the wines.

The application process for Cavas de Paraje Calificado is still open, and more estates may be designated in the near future.

References/for more information:

 

Announcing Cava de Paraje Calificado!

  By admin | June 15, 2016 - 8:02 pm |
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Pedro Bonet at the announcement of the new category (Photo via http://www.crcava.es)

Pedro Bonet at the announcement of the new category (Photo via http://www.crcava.es)

On Monday, June 13th, the consejo regulador of the Cava DO held a press conference at a Barcelona landmark– el Palau de la Música Catalana (the Palace of Catalan Music)–to announce to the world their new category of Cava DO wines, Cava de Paraje Calificado (Qualified Single Estate Cava).

This new category of sparkling wines (within the existing Cava DO) is reserved for single-vineyard, estate-produced wines. The intention of the category is to bring prestige to meticulously produced Cava, crafted from grapes from a “smaller area approved especially as extraordinary and unique for its soil and climate conditions.”

Wines bearing the seal of Single Estate Cava will need to abide by all of the basic rules of the Cava DO in regards to grape varieties, production methods, sweetness levels and the like, and will have the following more specific qualifications as well:

  • Vines must be at least 10 years old
  • Grapes must come from a vineyard whose entire production is dedicated to Single Estate Cava
  • Grapes must be hand-harvested and must be transported to the winery intact
  • Maximum production of 8,000 kg per hectare (equivalent to 8.8 tons per hectare [as opposed to 12 tons per hectare for other categories of Cava])
  • Musts may not be chaptalized or acidified
  • Minimum acidity 5.5 grams per liter (per cuvée)
  • Minimum of 36 months of sur lie (in-bottle) aging
  • Brut-level sweetness or drier
  • Complete traceability from vine to shelf
Photo via http://www.crcava.es

Photo via http://www.crcava.es

According to Pedro Bonet, chairman of the Cava Regulatory Board, Single Estate Cava “has been created in order to place cavas at the top of the quality wines pyramid and to do justice to its quality of this sparkling wine.” It not yet clear when we may expect to see Cava de Paraje Calificado on the shelf, but when we do, it will certainly be a reason to celebrate. Salud!

References/For more information:

Post authored Jane Nickles, your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

 

Conference Preview: Not all Cavas are Created Equal

  By admin | May 27, 2016 - 10:20 am |
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Today we have a Conference Preview on a session to be presented by Tracey Ellen Kamens. Tracey’s  session is entitled Not all Cavas are Created Equal. 

The last time the Society of Wine Educators held its annual conference in Washington, D.C., I took my cue from the conference theme of “Red, White & Bubbles” and championed the sparkling wines of the “good ole USA.” I’m still a big fan of sparklers, but this time, I will turn my attention to Cava!

While Cava and Champagne are both Traditional Method sparklers that begin with the letter “C,” that’s generally where the comparison ends. We tend to think of Champagne as a high quality wine, while Cava might be cheap and cheerful, but that’s about it.

For a long time, I, too, never thought particularly highly of Cava. But, more recently, I had the opportunity to visit Catalonia, and, once there, was pleasantly surprised by the care and concern that went into the production of these sparkling wines at several of the producers we visited.

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Moreover, Champagne and Cava have a lot more in common than meets the eye, at least when looking at production by the numbers—as shown in the accompanying graphic.

The more I tasted the wines at places like Augusti Torello Mata, Juve Y Camps and Recaredo, I began to realize that high quality Cava is not an oxymoron. In fact, in some cases, dare I say it– the terms “Cava” and “luxury” might actually exist side by side.

After further exploration, I learned that these producers are breaking the rules, or rather, they are exceeding them by leaps and bounds, with lowered yields, longer aging and many other commitments to quality grape growing and winemaking.

Admittedly, not all Cavas are well made–with the oceans of Cava washing up on U.S. shores each year, there is still a lot of so-so Cava out there. But, if we are honest–just as there are better-made Champagnes and better-made Proseccos (particularly Prosecco Superiore)–it’s hard to paint all Cavas with a single bad brush.

Still not convinced? Of course, the proof is in the tasting. Come join me for my presentation at this year’s SWE conference (Friday, August 12 at 10:30 AM) to taste for yourself, where the line-up will include wines from:

  • Alta Alella
  • Augusti Torello Mata
  • Can Recaredo
  • Casa Sala
  • Gramona
  • Juve Y Camps
  • Pares Balta
  • Perelada
  • Vins El Cep
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Tracy Ellen Kamens is a wine educator, writer and consultant who combines her passion for teaching with her love of wine. In addition to serving as president of Wine TEKnologies, Tracy currently serves as a Wine Expert for Wine Ring, Inc, a consumer-oriented app. She is an Ambassador for both the Napa Valley Vintners and the Crus Bourgeois du Médoc and is a frequent presenter at international wine conferences. Tracy has written for various publications including Palate Press magazine and The SOMM Journal and was a Fellowship Recipient for the Professional Wine Writers’ Symposium. She holds a doctorate of education from the University of Pennsylvania, the Certified Wine Educator credential from the Society of Wine Educators and the Wine & Spirits Education Trust’s Diploma of Wine & Spirits.

Tracey’s session—Not all Cavas are Created Equal—will be held on Friday, August 12, 2016 at 10:30 am pm as part of SWE’s 40th Annual Conference, to be held in Washington, DC.

 

The Judgment of Orlando—SWE Conference Recap 2021

  By admin | August 26, 2021 - 11:33 am |
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Today we offer a recap of a session—The Judgment of Orlando—from the 45th Conference of the Society of Wine Educators, written by session presenter Alan Tardi

I recently had the pleasure of conducting a session at the Society of Wine Educators 45th Annual Conference, live and in person after a 2-year hiatus due to the pandemic. While I am always pleased to be invited to present at conference, this time I felt a bit jealous of the participants sitting in the ballroom.

Each person had their own well-spaced table, and on the table were 12 exceptional sparkling wines. Of course, I had 12 wines in front of me too, but I was standing up talking rather than sitting down tasting and, unlike the audience, I already knew what the wines where!

All of them—with one exception—were made using the Méthode Champenoise, known as the Traditional Method anywhere outside of Champagne. And, while I gave a brief discourse on the origin and evolution of sparkling wine, the audience embarked on a sort of treasure hunt, tasting through the wines in front of them, without having been given any indication of what they were.

Then we addressed each of the wines one by one: Is this wine Champagne or is it not Champagne? If it is not Champagne, is it from the Old World or New? More importantly, why? And what are these impressions and deductions based on?

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There were 4 Champagnes, 4 Old World sparklers and 4 New World, but none of the participants knew this and the tasting order was intentionally mixed up. All the wines were carefully selected and of extremely high caliber, and each of them was unique yet very representative of its specific place of origin.

From Champagne, there were two classic Maison and two grower-producers. Pierre Gerbais‘ “L’Originale” from the southern department of the Aube, was made from 100% Pinot Blanc (aka Vrai Blanc) from a vineyard planted in 1904, while Aurelien Laherte‘s “Les 7” was comprised of all seven permitted grape varieties of Champagne made from a base wine that came from a perpetual reserve started in 2003.

The 167th edition of Krug’s “Grande Cuvée” (base year 2011) was a masterful assemblage of the three principal grape varieties of Champagne consisting of 191 different wines, including a healthy amount of reserve wines going back to 1995. The iconic “Clos des Goisses” 2005 of Philipponnat (which traces its winegrowing origins back to 1522), was comprised of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from within the steep enclosed vineyard, a wine that many believe constitutes the first site-specific bottling of Champagne.

Other Old-World wines included the “Classic Cuvée” (base year 2011) from Nyetimber, located in Southern England in an area that is, geologically speaking, an extension of the chalky Paris Basin which plays a huge role in the northern Champagne growing area of the Marne. From Trentino in northern Italy, we had a 100% Chardonnay from a single vineyard about 600 meters above sea level that spent 8 years on the lees. This special bottling, made only in exceptional vintages, is named after the founder of the winery (1902) who went to Champagne, fell in love (with the wine), and was compelled to make a champagne-style wine in his homeland, laying the foundation for what is now known as Trento DOC.

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Something similar happened a century earlier when a member of the Raventós family—which traces its winegrowing activity in the Penedès area of Catalonia to 1497—returned home from Champagne in 1872 determined to make a sparkling wine using the Champagne method but with the native grape varieties of his region. It was a big success; many others in the area started to make it and Cava was born. Ironically, Raventós decided to withdraw from the Cava DO in 2012 because they felt that the integrity of the appellation they essentially created had been severely compromised. The wine we tasted was made of 100% Xarel.lo grapes personally selected by Josep Maria Raventós i Negra from the 2005 vintage which spent about 6 years on the lees.

There was also another wine from Italy, a sort of red herring in the form of a Prosecco DOCG made from very old vines in Valdobbiadene by Paolo Bisol of Ruggeri winery. What made it very unusual was that this wine spent four years in an autoclave on the lees (plus one year in bottle) which gave it some subtle autolytic hints resonant of something one might find in a vintage champagne. [This was an experiment; only 4500 bottles were made, they’re practically gone now and bottles for this event had to be sent from Italy.]

New World selections consisted of four prestige-level wines: “Cuvée Clive”, a Cap Classique from Graham Beck Estate, South Africa; Schramsberg “Reserve”, from one of California’s oldest non-mission wineries (founded 1862) that was re-born as sparkling specialist by the Davies family in 1965; “Le Reve” from Domaine Carneros, a winery started by Claude Taittinger in 1987; and “L’Hermitage” from Roederer Estate (founded 1982), offshoot of another highly respected and well-established maison of Champagne.

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With 12 exceptional wines to taste, deduce, critique and explore, we didn’t have time to go into great detail or compare peoples’ contrasting impressions of the wines. And, unlike the 1974 “Judgment of Paris” tasting organized by Steven Spurrier (RIP) in which cabernet sauvignon-based wines from California won out over Bordeaux in a blind tasting, there was no clear consensus in Orlando and participants were quite divided (or ambiguous) about whether a wine was Champagne or not, or whether it was Old World or New.

But that was perfectly fine. The structure of this presentation was not intended so much as a contest to determine the ‘best’ but rather as an opportunity sharpen our faculties of taste, make some deductions about what we tasted, and explore the impact of provenance and production method unhindered by prejudice — not to mention have fun and taste some great wines together, in person!

I do hope participants found it enjoyable and insightful.

P.S. If you weren’t able to be there, you might like to pick a few bottles and create your own ‘judgment’ tasting! Click here for a Wine List-Judgment of Orlando as presented by Alan Tardi

–Alan Tardi

You might also like to pick up a copy of my book “Champagne, Uncorked.” I’m offering SWE members a 25% discount off cover price (plus cost of shipping) and would be happy to sign it if you wish. Write to me at alantardi@aol.com and I will send you an order form. Click here for more information about the SWE Discount for Champagne Uncorked by Alan Tardi

The Triumph of Trepat

  By admin | April 8, 2021 - 9:14 am | ,
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14989542 - trepat black grape, is a native variety of the conca de barbera. catalonia

Trepat is a relatively unknown red grape variety. At last count, there were just shy of 1,000 hectares (2,400 acres) planted in the world. Most—if not all—of these plantings are in Spain, mainly in Catalonia; although there are a few plantings in Valencia and Murcia (where the grape goes by the synonym Bonicaire).

If Trepat has any claim to fame at all, it is due to its use in Cava, one of the leading sparkling wines of Spain. If you’ve been a student of wine for longer than a year, you were most likely taught that Trepat was allowed for use in Cava, but only in rosé. This certainly was true from 1998 until the middle of 2020. However, in June of that year (just in time for the update to be included in the 2021 edition of the Certified Specialist of Wine Study Guide), the Pliego de Condiciones for the Cava DO was updated and the limitation on the use of Trepat was repealed.

Thus, it seems we are witnessing the Triumph of Trepat.  The reason for the change in Cava’s handling of Trepat—as stated in the Official Journal of the EU—is as follows: “In 1998, commercial development of rosé Cava began and the use of the Trepat variety was authorized for making rosé Cava. At present, with demand for rosé wines more than covered, and taking into account the good qualitative assessment of wines made from the Trepat variety, we consider that making white Cava (blanc de noirs) from the Trepat variety is an option of product diversification that does not take away from the quality of the Cava. Therefore, we decided to authorize this proposal so that white Cava may also be obtained from this variety.”

Trepat is a robust grape variety that tends to produce large, compact bunches of thick-skinned grapes. Its lack of popularity (in terms of plantings) may be due to its tendency to early budding and late ripening, making the vines somewhat susceptible to spring frost and harvest time rains.

Red wines produced from Trepat are produced in Catalonia’s Conca de Barberà and Costers de Costers del Segre DOs tend to be pale in color and feature aromas and flavors of red fruit (strawberry, raspberry, red cherry) and sweet spices (cinnamon). A touch of citrus/orange peel bitterness often accompanies the finish.

Cava Pere Mata TrepatTrepat seems to make its best appearances in rosé, both sparkling and still. Several leading Cava producers use the grape in their pink bubbly as well as Trepat rosé (still/non-sparling). One great example is Cava Portell/Vinicola de Sarral, who produces a Trepat-based Portell Rosat Brut Cava as well as a 100% Trepat rosé bottled under Conca de Barberà DO. The Conca de Barberà rosé is described as having aromas of peaches and strawberries along with a crisp, juicy acidity.

Another nice example is the 100% Trepat Cava Rosat produced by Pere Mata; this wine is described as having aromas of “raspberries, cranberries, and hibiscus flowers.” The upstarts of the Spanish sparkling wine world—producers of Corpinnat—are also proponents of Trepat: see Castellroig’s Reserva Brut Rosat for a fascinating example.

Keep an eye out for Trepat…and taste the triumph! 

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Dispatch from Béziers (and the Coteaux de Béziers IGP)

  By admin | November 30, 2020 - 4:02 pm |
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Photo of The Pont Vieux and Béziers by logopop via Wikimedia Commons

Photo of The Pont Vieux and Béziers by logopop via Wikimedia Commons

The area around the town of Béziers—located just north of the River Orb, about 6 miles (9.5 km) from the Mediterranean Sea in the Hérault Department of southeast France—is known to be one of the oldest cities in France. Believed to have been inhabited since 575 BCE, this sleepy town in the Languedoc has more than its fair share of historic landmarks.

These include the Pont Vieux—a Romanesque stone bridge with asymmetrical arches built in the 13th century—as well as the Saint-Nazaire Cathedral (Béziers Cathedral), built in the 14th century after its predecessor burned down in 1209 CE. The Canal de Midi runs through the town, carried over the Orb River via the Pont-canal de l’Orb (Orb Aqueduct), completed in 1858—and said to be one of the oldest and longest aqueducts on the canal.

The wines produced in and around Béziers have been famous for hundreds (if not thousands) of years; remnants of earthenware wine vessels containing the imprint “white wine of Baeterrae” (the Roman name for the town) have been found in excavations near Rome.

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In modern times, the vineyards of the area are produced under the Coteaux de Béziers Indication Géographique Protégée/IGP (Protected Geographical Indication/PGI). The majority of the appellation’s vineyards are located between the Libron River and the River Orb. There are currently around 20,000 hectares (acres) planted to vine as well as over 20 independent wineries and 3 winery co-ops. There is some overlap between the area covered by the Coteaux de Béziers IGP and the Languedoc AOC, although most of the Coteaux de Béziers IGP is tucked into the area surrounding the larger appellation.

The Coteaux de Béziers IGP produces still (non-sparkling) wines in red, white, and rosé. The specifics of the wines are discussed below:

  • Red wines: Red wines (either single-varietal or blends) may be produced from a long list of red grapes. Those most commonly used include Grenache, Syrah, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. The color may range from deep ruby red to garnet/purple. Young wines show aromas of red and black fruits; with time, these may develop into notes of mint, licorice, and spice.
  • Rosé: May be produced from a long list of grapes, and are typically produced as blends suing Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah. They are fruity and crisp; and range from pale pink to salmon pink in color.
  • White: The white wines may be produced as single-varietal wines or blends. A long list of varieties are allowed for use; those most widely grown include Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Vermentino, Marsanne and Grenache Blanc.
Photo of La cathédrale Saint-Nazaire de Béziers by VPE via Wikimedia Commons

Photo of La cathédrale Saint-Nazaire de Béziers by VPE via Wikimedia Commons

Astute students of wine might be interested in the fact that Coteaux de Béziers IGP is a new title; the name was changed from Coteaux du Libron in December of 2019. The reason for the name change, as stated on the original petition, is as follows: “The geographical reference ‘Libron’ is little known (the Libron is a coastal river in the department of Hérault), and the group wishes to replace it by referring instead to the town of Béziers, which forms part of the geographical area of production.”

References/for more information

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Guest Post: Mediterranean Magic at Bodega Alta Alella Mirgín (DO Alella)

  By admin | November 8, 2020 - 10:08 am |
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Braving the heat surrounded by glorious nature

Braving the heat surrounded by glorious nature

Today we have a guest post from Caroline Abbott who is visiting Bodega Alta Alella Mirgin in the Catalonia’s Alella DO. Caroline wrote this piece following a 29-day trip around Spain during which she visited 17 wineries and traversed over 4,000 km (2,500miles) along Spain’s eastern coast. We thought it made for an excellent “travel daydream” in these difficult-to-travel times.

The Mediterranean’s blue-green waves glitter in the background, the sun shines brightly, threatened by impending charcoal clouds. The vineyards’ leaves and branches sway in the saline sea breeze, the vines are heavy with grape clusters ready to be picked at the harvest that has already begun.

I am at Bodega Alta Alella Mirgín, the closet winery to Barcelona situated on the Costa del Maresme, 20km from the city center. Nestled in the Parque Natural Serralada de Marina, the property actually stands in two towns, Alella and Tiana, and prides itself on its organic farming ethos and family-owned origins. Founded by the previous Technical Director of Sparkling for Martini & Rossi Josep María Pujol-Busquets Guilléns and his wife Cristina, it is now mostly now run by his daughters Mireia and Georgina, a biologist and nutritionist who dedicate themselves to the family trade with dedication and precision.

Gorgeous concrete eggs

Gorgeous concrete eggs

The visit is graciously given by Valérie Veilleux, the Brand Ambassador who is a whiz at all things marketing, communication, wine tourism, distributor management, languages (she speak 4 languages and oversees the translations for everything) – you name it! We had met at the Salón de Vinos Radicales in Madrid back in February (before all of our lives changed due to the wretched virus) and I was instantly hooked, spending more time at her table and taking copious notes than at any other. I promised to visit, and a mere six months later, here I was, with those same notes in hand, ready to link the impressive wines tasted to their origins.

A small, vivacious woman with a big grin, warm heart, and razor-sharp mind, she meets me at the entrance in a huge, dusty Cadillac and proceeds to drive me all around the vineyards, explaining every feature with extreme detail and gusto. I barely have to ask any questions, as an astonishing wealth of information pours forth regarding anything and everything related to the property and wines. Set in an amphitheatre-shaped area between 50 and 320 meters above sea level, their main varietals include Pansa Blanca, better known as the Cava star Xarel-lo, Pansa Rosada, a clone of Xarel-lo with little tannin and beautiful dusty-pink grapes, Chardonnay, Macabeo (Viura), Syrah, and Mataró (Catalán for Monastrell).

Heaven in a bottle

Heaven in a bottle

The soil is called sauló, a very fertile granitic sandy subsoil formed by a geological substrate of granites that, in certain environmental and hydrological conditions, decompose very easily, forming the soil characteristic of this area. Its high acidity, low limestone content, and good natural drainage create the perfect combination for the minerality and salinity expressed in the wines. I had never experienced vineyards such as these, with so much natural vegetation that varies significantly from parcel to parcel (aromatic herbs, edible flowers, bamboo, pine trees, and the rieras – sandy flooding zones at the lowest elevation with an almost tropical climate.

After the in-depth explanation of the terroir, she leads me to the winery, bustling with staff cleaning and shutting down after a long, hot day of harvesting and pressing. She leads me into a unique cellar with barrels and bottles for aging right across from a rock wall of the same granite on which we had just walked. I am pretty sure that was the most “natural” cellar I have ever seen! She explained what the fun contraptions in the winery were, such as milk machines for cryo-maceration, tiny tanks for micro-macerations, and several concrete eggs they have recently discovered as perfect for Pansa Rosada, as the concrete provides just the perfect amount of tannins and the natural bâtonnage brings out the complexity and mouthfeel so pleasing on the palate. They even had an artist manufacture some special amphorae made with a percentage of their sauló soil for that added “terroir factor”.

The aging cellar

The aging cellar

Our last stop before stopping in the shop to pick up some bottles to take with us was in the Cava Vella, the cellar with the prized last few bottles of previous vintages and the incredible Mirgin Exeo and Opus Cavas, aged entirely with a cork and with the rémuage and dégorgement scrupulously completed dry and by hand (without the usual freezing of the necks to remove the yeast). What a treat to see all of this in person!

A quick stop by the wine tourism center with a sleek kitchen and underground events space concluded the visit. We chose a Mirgin Opus Cava de Paraje Calificado and 2019 Tallarol, their no-sulfites-added rendition of Pansa Blanca, for drinks and tapas at the local vermutería with Gonzalo Garnacho, the Export Manager. She generously suggested I stock up on a few faves to take with me later, including the brand-new 2019 Asarvos amber wine experiment that was just calling my name and 2019 Cau d’En Genis, a top-seller with which I was not familiar.

Day transitioned into evening as we enjoyed one another’s company well past dark, forging friendships and relationships that are the beating heart of the wine world. Part of the reason I am visiting these wineries is to show these incredibly hard workers my love and appreciation, and to share their dedication and commitment to the ever-more-difficult world of wine in the midst of climate change and the global pandemic. They are superstars, and I am honored to have been offered a glimpse into their passionate endeavors.

Moltes gràcies per a tots vosaltres – salut!

About the author: Caroline Abbott, CSW, CSS, WSET 3 was born to American parents in Madrid and grew up there.  As a teenager, she knew that the world of artisanal alcoholic beverages was her vocation. Before graduating with a BS in Entrepreneurship and Managements in 2011, she delved headfirst into the worlds of hospitality, brand ambassadorship, trade shows, and sales.  These eventually led to a Market Manager position for a New England beverage brokerage firm.The final catalyst for deciding wine was her future was selling a global portfolio while studying for the CSW exam in 2015. After an organic winemaking stint in Hungary and globetrotting for 8 months, she landed in Melbourne, Australia.  Working there with the top Spanish-wine importer inspired her to take the leap back to her native country.  During another 5 months of travel, she launched her bilingual translations business, Vinotations.  The long Covid quarantine was the impetus for her longtime dream to come true: traveling solo to visit 17 Spanish wineries in 29 days!  This blog post was born from that odyssey. Currently, she loves being back home in Madrid, after 11 years away.  In addition, she is Marketplace Success Manager in Spain for Vivino, the world’s most-downloaded wine app. 

  • This post was originally published on Caroline’s blog, Vinotations.
  • Photo credits:  Valérie Veilleux, Director of Communications at Alta Alella

 

Dispatch from the Vino de Pago Chozas Carrascal

  By admin | May 13, 2020 - 5:31 pm | ,
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Photo via: http://chozascarrascal.com/vina/

Photo via: http://chozascarrascal.com/vina/

Bodega Chozas Carrascal—located in Valencia, Spain—was founded by the husband-and-wife team of Julian Lopez and Jose Maria Peidro in 1990. The poetic-sounding name of the estate is based on the nickname (“Chozas”) of one of their grandfathers, and a type of scrub oak tree native to the Mediterranean (Quercus coccifera, aka carrascal) that—once upon a time—were widespread in the area.

Thirteen years after their purchase of the property—in 2003—the winery released its first wine. These early wines, bottled mainly under the Utiel-Requena DO, included a range of red, white, rosé, and sparkling wines based on the traditional grapes of the region (Bobal, Monastrell, Garnacha, Tempranillo and Macabeo) as well as some international varieties, including Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Voigner, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc.

In 2012, 30 hectares within the Chozas Carrascal estate were approved by the Spanish government as a Vino de Pago. Just a few days ago (on May 11, 2020), the designation was approved by the European Commission and published in the Journal of the EU. (It’s official!)

Bodega Chozas Carrascal continues to produce a wide range of wines, including reds, whites, and rosé bottled under the Utiel-Requena DO as well as sparkling wines (Cava DO). Their current releases include the following four wines bottled under the Vino de Pago Chozas Carrascal designation:

  • Las Tres: a white blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Macabeo; barrel-fermented, fermented in oak, and oak-aged for 8 weeks with daily lees stirring
  • Las Ocho: a red blend of 8 grapes; each grape is vinified separately with the final blend aged for 14 months in French oak
  • Las Quatro: a young (joven) rosé made from co-fermented Tempranillo, Garnacha, Syrah, and Merlot
  • Cabernet Familiar: 100% Cabernet Franc, aged for 9 months in new French oak
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The regulations of the Vino de Pago Chozas Carrascal allow for the production of these four styles of wine, in accordance with the following standards:

  • 100% Cabernet Franc (monovarietal/dry red):
    • Minimum of 5 months of oak aging
    • Abv of at least 13%
  • Dry red blends:
    • Grape varieties: Bobal, Monastrell, Garnacha Tinta, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, and Merlot
    • Minimum of 5 months of oak aging
    • Abv of at least 13%
  • Dry white blends:
    • Grape varieties: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Bland, and Macabeo (Viura)
    • Fermentation must occur in oak barrels
    • No aging requirement
    • Abv of at least 12.5%
  • Dry rosé:
    • Grape varieties: Syrah, Merlot, Garnacha, and Tempranillo
    • Stainless steel fermentation followed by “oak maceration” for a minimum of three weeks
    • Abv of at least 12.5%
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The Chozas Carrascal property includes an olive orchard, a spa, and an impressive array of wine tourism/tasting experiences. Time to plan a road trip (once it is safe to travel again).

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Guest Blogger: Diving into the DO Valencia

  By admin | September 14, 2019 - 11:12 am | ,
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Today we have a guest post from Elizabeth Yabrudy, CSS, CSW, CWE. Elizabeth takes us on a deep dive into the wines of the Valencia DO!

When we think about Spanish wines, usually Rioja, Ribera del Duero and/or Cava are the denominations that come into our minds, but never Valencia, right?

Valencia, the city, is Spain’s third largest, after Madrid and Barcelona. The autonomous community—under the same name—has three protected denominations of origin: DO Valencia, DO Utiel-Requena and DO Alicante. The DO Valencia was created in 1932, although its wine production date backs to the Phoenicians.

According to the Spanish Wine Market Observatory (OeMV, by its initials in Spanish), Valencia as an autonomous community ranks fourth in Spanish wine production by volume, after Castilla-La Mancha, Extremadura and Cataluna, with 5.8% (2.4 Mhl) of the total.

Saint Mary's Square, Valencia

Saint Mary’s Square, Valencia

The DO Valencia: The DO Valencia is located in Spain’s east coast (on the Mediterranean Sea), with the DO Carinena to its north; the DO Alicante to the south; and the DO Utiel-Requena (as well as part of the DO Manchuela, DO Almanza, and DO Yecla) to the west. It covers 18,060 hectares (44,600 acres), and includes four sub-zones:

  • Alto Turia
  • Valentino
  • Moscatel de Valencia
  • Clariano

The region covered by the DO Valencia also includes some land that lies within the province of Albacete, as well as in some areas (less than 30% of either of each DO) in the communities of Utiel-Requena and Alicante.

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The Alto Turia subzone, located in the northwest of the Province, produces dry white wine only. It is a mountainous zone, with extreme temperatures and a wide diurnal swing, where mostly white grapes are cultivated in an altitude between 700 and 1100 meters (2,300 and 3,610 feet) above sea level. Merseguera and Macabeo are the main varieties, but other whites are also allowed.

Valentino is situated almost in the center of the autonomous community of Valencia. The area under vine is lower in elevation than Alto Turia, just 200 to 650 meters (660 to 2,130 feet)above sea level. It is a sub-one where both, white and red grapes, can be found. Merseguera, Macabeo and Planta Fina are the most common of the whites, but Semillon and Chardonnay can also be found. Garnacha Tintorera, Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon are the most planted reds. The wines of Valentino are produced in many styles, as the soil and climate are very diverse, but in any case, alcohol strength tend to be higher than in other zones.

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Moscatel de Valencia is located south of Alto Turia and Valentino, and is more highly influenced by the Mediterranean breezes. Of course, the main grape here is Moscatel, mainly used to produce Vin de Liqueur (“Vino de Licor” or “Mistelas”). Vineyards are no more than 250 meters (820 feet) above the sea level.

Clariano, in the south of the DO Valencia, is an area with two different climates due to the presence of both valleys and mountains. White grapes are primarily cultivated in the area closest to the sea, while the interior—with warmer temperatures and higher elevations—is planted mainly to red grapes including Garnacha Tintorera, Monastrell, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Tempranillo.

Grapes and Wine Styles: The focus of the DO Valencia is on indigenous grapes. Most producers strive to showcase the authenticity of the region, even when they also cultivate international red and white varieties. The wines—both white and red—tend towards freshness, with good acidity and a mineral (even salty) character. The fruitiness is the main characteristic in the nose and the palate. However, this region is well known for its famed dessert wines.

The authorized grape varieties are:

  • Whites: Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Macabeo, Malvasía, Merseguera, Moscatel de Alejandría, Moscatel Grano Menudo, Planta Fina de Pedralba, Planta Nova, Pedro Ximénez, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Tortosí, Verdejo, Verdil and Viognier
  • Reds: Bobal, Bonicaire, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Forcallat Tinta, Garnacha, Graciano, Malbec, Mandó, Marselán, Mencía, Merlot, Monastrell, Mazuelo, Petit Verdot, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Tempranillo and Tintorera.
Xàtiva Castle, Valencia

Xàtiva Castle, Valencia

Click here for a pdf detailing the styles of wine produced in the region: The wines of the Valencia DO

Valencia has its own port on the Mediterranean Sea—the fifth busiest seaport in Europe, and the largest in Spain. Because of its location, this community has been strongly focused on markets outside Spain rather than at home, maintaining the impetus on high quality products.

More than 500 wineries are located in Valencia, and the region now has its own wine route—the Ruta del Vino DO Valencia—helping to increase enotourism in the area. If you can find a wine from Valencia, don’t hesitate to buy it. Valencia is also home to two high-quality Vinos de Pago: Vino de Pago El Terrerazo and Vino de Pago Los Balagueses. You are guaranteed a great Spanish wine experience!

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About the author: Elizabeth Yabrudy, CSS, CSW, CWE is a sommelier and journalist residing in Venezuela. To date, she the only Venezuelan—and the only South American—to have achieved the Certified Wine Educator designation from the Society of Wine Educators. In addition, Elizabeth is the winner of the 2018 Banfi Award, having received the highest combined total score of any candidate sitting the CWE in 2018. She stays busy teaching and writing about wine and spirits, as well as leading tastings and service training. In addition to her wine and spirits credentials, Elizabeth has a Master’s Degree in Electronic Publishing from City University in London. You can find her online at ElizabethYabrudy.wordpress.com.

References/for more information: