Monthly Archives: March 2020

Towards a Definition of (French) Natural Wine

  By admin | March 25, 2020 - 9:35 pm |
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Logo via Syndicat Vin Nature

Logo via Syndicat Vin Nature

The debate over natural wine has raged on for years now.  To some wine aficionados, it is the only wine that matters, to others it is all but undrinkable. This debate—whether to love, hate, or disregard “natural” wine—will surely continue for generations.

However, it seems that the industry is inching closer to the goal of codifying a definition of “natural wine.” A few regions have even agreed to disagree on a definition, including—according to multiple recent news sources—the mother ship of wine producers, France.

This information was first brought to our attention via the publication of the headline La Dénomination “Vin Méthode nature” Officiellement Reconnue (“The name wine–nature method is officially recognized”)—published on March 6, 2020 via food-and-wine journal Atabula.

Before we bang the gong too loudly, there are a few things to note about this latest development. For starters, it does appear to be quite relevant in that France has agreed upon the parameters of natural wine. However, it should be noted that due to previous laws prohibiting the use of the term “natural” on wine labels, the approved term is Vin Méthode Nature (“nature method wines”)—NOT naturel nor naturelle.

In addition, approval of the label term has not yet been announced by the INAO, nor published on the website of the Ministère de l’agriculture et de l’alimentation (French Ministry of Agriculture and Food). Nevertheless, it has been approved by the Directorate General for Competition, Consumption and the Suppression of Fraud (la Direction générale de la Concurrence, de la Consommation et de la Répression des frauds/DGCCRF) that previously opposed the use of the term “natural.” As such, the term “Vin Méthode Nature” has been approved as a validated private label and may soon appear on bottles of French wine. Compliance wit the charter will enforced by the DGCCRF.

The effort to have the new label approved has been spearheaded by Le Syndicat Vins Nature’l (the Union of Natural Wines), presided over by Jacques Carroget (proprietor of Domaine la Paonnerie in France’s Loire Valley). It is estimated that up to sixty wines may apply to be granted use of the term (and logo) for the release of the 2019 vintage.

According to the new regulations, the following is required in order to use the label term Vin Méthode Nature and the logo:

  • Vineyards must be organically farmed, as represented by organic certification, second-year organic conversion, or private Nature and Progress charter
  • Grapes must be hand-harvested
  • Use of indigenous yeasts
  • No sulfur added before or during fermentation. Note that there are two versions of the logo available, one that declares “without added sulfites” (for wines containing less than 10 mg/L); and one that declares “less than 30 mg sulfites.”
  • No must adjustments (acidification, chaptalization, etc.)
  • No “recourse to brutal and traumatic physical techniques,” which specifically excludes reverse osmosis, filtration, flash pasteurization, and thermovinification.
  • Click here to see the entire list via the Charter of Syndicat de défense des Vins Nature’l

We’ll be watching for updates and will post more information on these developments as they are released.

Graphic via Syndicat Vin Nature

Graphic via Syndicat Vin Nature

References/for more information:

On the Radar: Dr. Jennifer Broderick, CSW

  By admin | March 22, 2020 - 12:34 pm |
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Dr. Jennifer Broderick hiking the vineyards of Germany!

Dr. Jennifer Broderick, CSW hiking the vineyards of Germany!

Dr. Jennifer Broderick, CSW, grew up in two college towns:  Lawrence, Kansas, then Middletown, Connecticut, where her father was a professor of Political Science.  She studied English at the University of Hawaii (where her father also taught for a time), then switched paths and received her undergraduate degree in Social Work from South Connecticut State University.  From there she spent several years in the restaurant business in Connecticut and Massachusetts.  Graduate degrees came later in life, with an MBA from University of Phoenix in 2010 and an Ed.D. in Higher Education Leadership from Johnson and Wales University in 2016.

Jennifer’s experience in the restaurant trade is both wide and deep;  she had a long career as a general manager, managing partner, proprietor of some large corporate restaurant chains, and she even did a 10 year stint as a dry cleaner (so if you need a wine stain taken out, just ask).

Dr. Broderick joined the faculty of Johnson and Wales University in 2012, and is presently an associate professor in the College of Culinary Arts at the university’s Harborside Campus in  Providence, Rhode Island, and has served as the department chair for Beverage and Dining Services since Edward Korry, former president of the Society of Wine Educators (SWE), retired.

For eight years, Jennifer has taught beverage and dining courses to freshmen and sophomores as well as capstone dining course to seniors.  She also teaches leadership, human resources, and research courses in JWU’s College of Online Education. Having had to continue her learning while fully employed, Jennifer is a proponent of learning and teaching online.  Last summer she was the faculty leader for the JWU Study Abroad 500 Corks Sommelier program in Germany and France; in March, she’ll be leading students on the volcanic wines Study Abroad program in the Azores.

Dr. Broderick is an honored member of the JWU faculty.  She was recognized with the Distinguished Scholarship Award in 2015, 2016, and 2017, and she received the Dean’s Award for Professional Development in 2017.  Additionally, she has been working hard on her professional credentials:  she earned her Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) in 2013 (with a shout-out to Edward Korry’s preparation class and Miss Jane’s Bubbly Professor materials).  She is a Certified Hospitality Educator, holds the WSET Level 2 in Spirits, and is working toward her Certified Specialist of Spirits (CSS) with the Society of Wine Educators.

Jennifer counts SWE as a significant influence in her life and she is excited about keeping up the association.  She has been a volunteer at the summer conference every year since the 2014 conference in Seattle, and genuinely enjoys working with Shields Hood, the SWE office team, and the other volunteers.  As Jennifer puts it:  “I am inspired by those who have studied wine for many years, and I feel honored to be surrounded by such knowledgeable people; it is because of my involvement with the SWE that I’ve truly become hooked on learning more about wine!  I truly appreciate the incredible opportunity that I have, to further my wine studies and wine appreciation by continuing my participation in SWE events.”

Guest post written by Reverend Paul Bailey

If you are a SWE certificate holder and would like to be featured in our “On the Radar” series, please contact our Director of Education and Certification, Jane A. Nickles: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Dispatch from Soave (and 33 New Crus)

  By admin | March 17, 2020 - 2:41 pm | ,
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Map of the traditional regions of Soave/credit: Casa del Vino (own work) via Wikimedia Commons

Map of the traditional regions of Soave/credit: Casa del Vino (own work) via Wikimedia Commons

Soave DOC—Veneto’s beloved Garganega-based white wine—has entered a new phase with the approval of 33 new subzones. The new geographical indications were approved by the Italian Ministry of Agriculture in October of 2019—and as of March 2020, they have been approved and published in the Official Journal of the European Union.

The Soave zone has traditionally contained two subzones: Soave Classico and Soave Colli Scaligeri. The Classico zone—the original, central part of the region located about 10 miles east of the city of Verona—consists of an expanse of rolling hills within the communes of Soave and Monteforte d’Alpone. The discontinuous Colli Scaligeri subzone contains a series of hillsides surrounding the city of Verona. The name is a reference to the Della Scala family (the Scaligeri)—former Lords of Verona and once-upon-a-time owners of the land.

Vigne del Soave—a comprehensive project to map the Soave region by soil types, elevation, micro-climate, topography, and historical usage—has been in the works via the Soave Consortium for over a decade. The project was completed in 2019 with the formal designation of 33 unique geographical subzones officially known as “Additional Geographical Units” or Unità Geografica Aggiuntiva.  

Photo via: https://ilsoave.com/

Photo via: https://ilsoave.com/

The 33 new Crus of Soave are as follows: Castelcerino, Colombara, Froscà, Fittà, Foscarino, Volpare, Tremenalto, Carbonare, Tent, Corte Durlo, Rugate, Croce, Costalunga, Coste, Zoppega, Menini, Monte Grande, Ca ‘del Vento, Castellaro, Pressoni, Broia, Brognoligo, Costalta , Paradiso, Costeggiola, Casarsa, Monte di Colognola, Campagnola, Pigno, Duello, Sengialta, Ponsarà, Roncà–Monte Calvarina.

Of the 33 newly-designated areas, 28 are located within the Classico Zone. Two—resting atop volcanic soils—are located near the commune of ​​Roncà (to the north and east of the Classico Zone), and three are in the limestone hills located in the western portion of the region.

The new designations are approved for use beginning with the wines of the 2019 vintage.

Click here for an interactive map of the 33 crus of Soave, via the website of the Consorzio Soave.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Dispatch from Empordà: Carignan Blanc is Official

  By admin | March 4, 2020 - 6:13 pm | ,
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Graphic via: https://www.doemporda.cat/

Graphic via: https://www.doemporda.cat/

Empordà—a Spanish wine region (denominación de origen/DO)—is located in the northern reaches of Catalonia, just to the south of the Banyuls AOC in France’s Roussillon region. Viticulture and wine production in the area surrounding modern-day Empordà can be traced back to Greek settlements in the area (circa 600 BCE), and is known to have flourished throughout the Middle Ages.

Viticulture and winemaking in the area took quite a blow from phylloxera, in the late 1800s, but by the middle of the 20th century vineyards had been re-planted and wine from Empordà was flowing once again. The area first received DO status in 1975, when it was known as Empordà–Costa Brava, in order to take advantage of the area’s reputation as a beautiful beach-side destination and food-and-wine hotspot. While the area’s reputation remains intact, the name of the wine region was changed to simply Empordà DO in 2006.

The Empordà DO is approved for a long list of grape varieties and an equally impressive list of allowed wine styles. These include still (non-sparkling) wines in red (tinto), white (blanco) and rosé (rosado), as well as sparkling wines (vino espumoso), fizzy/slightly sparkling wines (vino de aguja) and fortified wines (vino de licor). Specialties of the region include Garnatxa del Empordà, a sweet, fortified wine made from sun-dried Garnacha grapes, and Moscatell del Empordà, produced using Moscatel de Alejandría and/or Moscatel de Grano Menudo (Muscat of Alexandria and/or Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains).

Photo via: https://www.doemporda.cat/

Photo via: https://www.doemporda.cat/

The white wines of Empordà are in the news this week. Just yesterday (March 3, 2020) it was announced that an amendment to the region’s pliego de condiciones had been approved and published in the Boletín Oficial del Estado de Espana (Official Bulletin of Spain). This proposal had been in the works for several years; and allows for the use of the Cariñena Blanca (Carignan Blanc) grape variety to be used in the wines of the region. The Empordà DO is the first to allow the use of Cariñena Blanca in its wines.

Cariñena Blanca is a white-skinned mutation of Carignan Noir (also known as Cariñena, Samsó, or Mazuelo). By all accounts, it has been grown and used in the white blends of the region for generations —the region even boasts some 100-year-old Cariñena Blanca vines—despite the fact that it was never entered into the list of official varieties for Spain. This has all changed now, as the official list of recommended grape varieties for the DO now includes Cariñena Blanca, in addition to Garnatxa Blanca (Grenache Blanc), Macabeu (Macabeo/Viura), and Moscatel d’Alexandria. Other authorized white varieties include Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, and Xarel·lo

There are currently about 55 wine-producing estates and just over 1,825 hectares/4,510 acres planted to vine in the Empordà DO.  Perhaps one of the estates will produced a varietal Cariñena Blanca in 2020—it could happen!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Vino Naranja del Condado de Huelva PGI

  By admin | March 2, 2020 - 7:49 am |
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Graphic via: https://docondadodehuelva.com/

Graphic via: https://docondadodehuelva.com/

Spain has one aromatized wine that holds a designated appellation of origin: Vino Naranja del Condado de Huelva. The name translates to Orange Wine of Condado de Huelva—however, this is a flavored wine macerated with actual oranges—not to be confused with the traditional skin-macerated white wines that are known as “orange wine” in many parts of the world. (No one ever said the wine world was void of confusing terminology—and they never will!)

Vino Naranja del Condado de Huelva is produced in the exact same defined geographical area as the slightly-better-known table wines of the Condado de Huelva DO. The region is located in on Andalucía’s Atlantic coast, about 45 miles/72 km northwest of Sanlúcar de Barrameda.

Vino Naranja del Condado del Huelva is produced using a base wine comprised exclusively of the products of the Condado de Huelva DO. The base may be a Condado de Huelva DO white wine, or a mistella (grape must that is muted [fortified] with grape spirits before or during fermentation). The preferred grape variety for these wines is the indigenous Zalema variety; however, the list of allowed grape varieties also includes Palomino Fino, Pedro Ximénez, Moscatel de Alejandría, Colombard, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay.

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To produce the aromatized wine, dried bitter orange peels are macerated with locally-produced grape spirit. This maceration must continue for at least six months; and must comprise at least 200 grams of dried orange peels per liter of spirit. One the maceration is complete; the flavored spirit is combined with the base wine.

Vino Naranja del Condado must next be oak-aged (in barrels of 650 liters or less) for a minimum of two years. This aging is typically done in a solera system, producing a concentrated, complex, and deeply oxidized wine with a dark amber color. The product is made in both dry and sweet styles. Fresh or concentrated grape must from the Condado de Huelva DO is allowed to be added as a sweetener.

Vino Naranja del Condado de Huelva is often served slightly chilled alongside savory appetizers and/or meals. It may also be enjoyed “on the rocks” with or without water or soda water. Many people feel that serving the wine with ice brings out the sweet character of the wine, making it an excellent accompaniment to sweet foods.

Graphic via: https://docondadodehuelva.com/

Graphic via: https://docondadodehuelva.com/

Vino Naranja del Condado de Huelva has been produced in the region for hundreds of years. Many references date its production back to 1770, and list Bodegas del Diezmo Nuevo as one of the original producers. Vino Naranja del Condado de Huelva was granted a protected geographical indication (PGI) of the European Union on March 14, 2017

Alas, It is not yet widely available outside of Europe, but for those lucky enough to be traveling to Spain in the near future—be sure and check it out (and bring us all a bottle)!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org