Newsflash from France: (Some) Innovations Allowed for AOC Wines

In a newsflash from France, AOC wines—in some cases, to a limited degree and with specific pre-approval—are now allowed to innovate (just a little).

To put it more precisely, during a meeting of Le Comité National des Appellations d’Origine relatives aux Vins et aux Boissons Alcoolisées (The National Committee of Appellations of Origin for Wines and Alcoholic Beverages) held over June 29 and 30^th (2023), it was decided that the AOC wines of France would be allowed to use some innovations/experimentation (up to a maximum of 10% of total production) in their vineyard plantings, varietal composition, and farming/production techniques.

For instance, appellations are allowed to apply for permission to use small amounts of “VIFA” grapes (varieties of interest for adaptation purposes). This directive has been in existence for a few years, and it is reported that about 20 appellations (including the Bordeaux AOC and Champagne AOC) have received permission to add (very limited amounts of) newly approved grape varieties to their vineyard plantings and blends.

• The new ruling takes this concept a bit further, but comes with an extensive list of caveats, as explained below:
  • Any newly approved grape varieties will be limited to a maximum of 10% in any particular wine.
  • There is a limit of one innovation per each main section of the product specification (cahier des charges). This allows for some experimentation in vineyard management, and/or winemaking practices.
  • Approval (if granted) will be based upon the review of a written request, will be subject to ongoing analysis and review, and will be subject to time limitations.

These changes are meant to provide the French wine industry with a capacity for resilience in the face of “contemporary challenges such as climate change, ecological emergency, societal expectations.” (The press release reads as follows: Face aux enjeux contemporains – dérèglement climatique, urgence écologique, attentes sociétales… la filière viticole fait de l’innovation technique, un des éléments clefs de sa capacité de résilience.)

References/for more information:

• Comité national des Appellations d’origine Viticoles June 2023
• Retour sur le Comité national des appellations d’origine viticoles – 29 et 30 juin 2023 (inao.gouv.fr)
• French AOC wines can now experiment (vitisphere.com)

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org