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Guest Post: Ampelos Cellars: Triple-Certified and Rocking the Sta. Rita Hills

  By admin | May 11, 2019 - 11:03 am | ,
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Today we have a guest post from Kate Brandt. While Kate was a student in my CSW online prep class, she mentioned on our class forum that the winery where she worked—Ampelos Cellars—was the first vineyard in the US to be “triple certified” organic, biodynamic, and sustainable. I was fascinated by her story and asked if she would like to write a blog post about the company. Lucky for us, she agreed, and we are so thankful to have Kate tell us this fascinating tale!

The Story of Ampelos Cellars, by Kate Brandt

As a Navy Spouse, I have had the opportunity to travel all over the world and visit some amazing places.  While living in Italy, I visited a small, 7-generation, family owned, organically farmed vineyard.  It was there I had my ‘A-HA’ wine moment and knew I wanted to spend the rest of my life learning about wine. It wasn’t until eight years later, when our family was stationed at Vandenberg Air Force Base in Central California that I got that opportunity … when I started working for Ampelos Cellars.

Peter and Rebecca Wonk

Peter and Rebecca Wonk

Owned and operated by Peter and Rebecca Work, Ampelos Cellars is the first vineyard in the United States to be triple certified Organic (USDA CCOF Organic), Biodynamic (Demeter) and Sustainability in Practice (SIP).  Located in the beautiful Santa Rita Hills wine region, Ampelos Cellars focuses on creating minimally invasive wines that tell a fantastic story about the soil and vines, making it easy for the consumer to enjoy the wines while creating their own great memories and stories to tell.

Peter and Rebecca bought their property in 1999 for a future a retirement project.  What a great and romantic dream, to wake up in the morning and have coffee while watching their dogs run through the vines, right!?  Then, a series of cancelled meetings following the 9/11 World Trade Center attack had them thinking they were done with the corporate world.  They pushed up their retirement dream and started in making wine full time.  In 2001, they planted their first vines – Pinot Noir, Syrah, Grenache and Viognier.  In 2004, they harvested their first 15 acres, and, in 2006, they converted their vineyard to organic and biodynamic farming.  They achieved their SIP certification in 2008, and their organic and biodynamic certifications in 2009.

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But what do all these certifications mean to the world of wine?

Organic Farming: Simply put, the main concept of organic farming is zero impact on the environment.

Organic farming follows standards for the use of natural fertilizers such as compost manure and biological pest control such as ladybugs and chickens instead of synthetic pesticides.  Also, organic farming uses techniques such as crop rotation, cover cropping and reduced tillage. This exposes less carbon to the atmosphere resulting in more soil organic carbon.  All of these practices are aimed to protect the earth, thus feeding the soil to feed the plant.

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Biodynamic Farming: Biodynamic farming was originally introduced in 1924, when a group of European farmers approached Dr. Rudolf Steiner (noted scientist, philosopher, and founder of the Waldorf School) after noticing a rapid decline in seed fertility, crop vitality and animal health.

Quartz crystals are buried in female cow horns because they are made of silicon which add more nutrients to the soil

Quartz crystals are buried in female cow horns because they are made of silicon which add more nutrients to the soil

It was the first of the organic agricultural movements when an English Baron, Lord Northbourne, coined the term “organic farming”, and the concept of “farm as an organism” was adapted.  It has similar ideas to organic farming in that it practices soil fertility and plant growth. However, there is a larger emphasis on spiritual and mystical perspectives such as choosing when to plant, cultivate or harvest crops based on phases of the moon or zodiac calendar.

Some biodynamic compounds used include:

  • Cow manure sprayed in the soil — Stimulates soil structure, humus formation, bacteria, soil life, fungi and brings energy and vitality to the roots. This regulates levels of limestone and nitrogen in the soil and increases water holding capacity of the soil.
  • Silica (quartz crystals) sprayed on the foliage — Allows leaves, shoots and clusters to enhance their use of light and heat. It improves photosynthesis, and assists with the plants assimilation of atmospheric forces.
  • Yarrow added to the compost pile — Attracts trace elements of sulfur and potassium, aiding plant growth.
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Sustainability In Practice: While Organic Certification only addresses the prohibition of synthetic pesticides and fertilizers, SIP addresses the whole farm by looking at how the farmer gives back to the community, environment and business.  The main goal is to help ensure both natural and human resources are protected.

There are 10 areas of SIP practices. Examples include:

  • Conservation and Enhancement of Biological Diversity — enhances and protects a biologically diverse agricultural ecosystem while maintaining productive vineyards.
  • Vineyard Acquisition/Establishment and Management — focuses on the decisions affecting the vineyard’s ability to sustainably produce high quality fruit with minimum inputs and manipulations.
  • Soil Conservation and Water Quality – focuses on protecting the resources necessary for plant life including land, soil, and water.
  • Pest Management – focuses on pest management rather than pest control, including controlling weeds, root insects, canopy insects, and diseases.
Chickens used for pest control and natural fertilizer to the soil

Chickens used for pest control and natural
fertilizer to the soil

Differences between the main farming practices:

  • Conventional
    • Get the biggest yields possible
    • Spray artificial pesticides and fertilizers
    • Quick profitability
  • Organic
    • Does not spray artificial pesticides or fertilizers
    • Does not focus on other farming aspects (energy, fertilizer, water conservation, etc.)
  • Biodynamic
    • Treats the whole ranch as one system; everything is in balance with Mother Nature
    • Waste of one thing is the energy for something else.
  • Sustainability In Practice
    • Focuses on energy, employee practices, water conservation, for example
    • Breaks farming down into 10 areas (some listed here): energy, water conservation, social equity, pest management, etc.

Ampelos is the Greek word for vine. Peter and Rebecca named the winery Ampelos because they believe every great wine begins with the vine and health of the vineyard. They have successfully achieved their dream of creating well-crafted, clean, natural wines through eco-friendly wine making. When I was in Italy, I realized I wanted to start a journey of my own in the wine industry. I had no idea then my journey would bring me full circle to a family-owned, triple-certified vineyard. I am lucky to learn from Peter and Rebecca and benefit from their experiences with every bottle I share as I continue on my voyage of wine with a full glass!

About the author: Kate Brandt is a proud Navy spouse and mother of two energetic girls.  She loves to travel, learning about (and drinking) wine, and enjoying treasured friendships.

Guest Post: Wine as a Small Business: Surviving and Thriving?

  By admin | May 6, 2019 - 7:43 am |
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Today we have a guest post from a frequent contributor that we know as Candi, CSW. Read on to see how Candi learned to appreciate some local small businesses that just happen to be wineries.

Small business is part of my DNA. All of my grandparents were family farmers. My father’s main business was a small electronics firm; as soon as he could, he too purchased a small farm. My brother and I each became self-employed after years of working as an employee. It’s just who we are.

So it stands to reason that I would seek out and support small businesses when it makes financial sense. I may be frugal, but I’m willing to pay a bit of a premium to support local restaurants, shops, etc.

Given my passion for vino, I have sought out opportunities to support small wineries. When we do a tasting trip, I seek out small vintners that I may have never even experienced for the target list. Extra points if the wines can’t be found elsewhere. Over time, direct-from-winery purchases have increased. Why not support wine as a small business and, sometimes, as a small farm?

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Very recently, I learned of a local event that would focus on small California family-owned wineries. It was one of my small-vintner buddies who clued me in, as he would be there. Sounds like another way to get a perspective on wine as a small business, not to mention a perfect way to spend a weekend afternoon. And my trusty designated driver, i.e. husband, willing to step up. I’m there. I’m so there.

The event was organized by an association for its members. More than 60 wineries participated. About 80% of the wineries have an annual case production of less than 10,000; about 30% produce 1,000 or fewer cases per year. Most major regions and a cross-section of AVAs were represented. It appeared that the wineries were targeting visibility to brokers, distributors, on-premise trade, and even direct-to-consumer.

My standard approach to an event of this magnitude is to do pre-event research. Just like tasting trips, I want to narrow the focus. As a professional, I’ve learned that I have a limit before palate fatigue sets in. For safety, education and enjoyment, I respect my personal limitations. To their credit, the association provided detailed information well in advance of the event. Even a spreadsheet listing participants, price ranges, key varietals, and contact information was available. Perfect.

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Prior to the event, I began to receive e-mails from some of the wineries. These detailed what wines would be poured, reminded me to stop by, etc. About 15% of the vintners sent these messages. A nice touch and a way to build anticipation.

For the event, I took a hard copy of my target list. Onsite, things were well-organized and staffed with ample volunteers. User-friendly organization, complete with tables in alphabetical order. A promising start.

Advance information, particularly the winery spreadsheet, proved to be very helpful. I did chat with a few attendees, seemingly Millennials, who preferred the app for smartphones that was also provided prior to the event. Not my cup of tea, nor my glass of vino. Multiple media strategies, however, can be a key way to increase exposure. Whatever is most user-friendly to the attendee is likely be adopted and appreciated.

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Armed with my trusty personal bottle of water, I began to execute my plan. As I limit the number of stops, it allows more time to chat with each vintner and to learn any geeky details or back story they care to share. Fortunately, there was less crowding than I’ve experienced at some events. The best part, for me, is learning from the vintners and staff. Less crowding means I don’t have to move on to be polite.

I learned of some wineries that were founded by “dreamers” later in life as an additional career. Some harvested grapes from tiny plots within key vineyards. Many continue to experience the high cost of doing business, particularly in glam areas like Napa and Sonoma. Most have opened since 2000, some as recently as 2017 and 2018.

Photo via: https://www.rescuedogwines.com/

Photo via: https://www.rescuedogwines.com/

Wineries were generally pouring current releases; there were a few new releases from vintages as new as 2016 for reds and 2018 for whites and roses’. My most interesting takeaway was the vast cross-section of varietals; clearly, some of the vintners had favorite grapes and chose to work with them. And, as I worked my way through my plan, I began to see just how many different varietals I could experience.

To illustrate, here is a list of a few of the wines that made a favorable impression. Granted, pricing and availability vary by location. But due to my frugal mindset, all wines listed are generally priced in the mid double-digits or less.

All of the wines except for Tablas Creek were new to me. I was learning that survival, even thriving, depend upon continued, increasing visibility as a key success factor. And not just for wineries. There were some other encounters. Many with…owners of small businesses.

This was an event done in a no-frills manner. The association relied upon a few sponsors for basic bread, cheese, and crackers so that palates could be cleansed and attendee risk managed. I met a few sponsors, and learned where I can buy their very tasty stuff locally.

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I saw one of my gym buddies there. Her husband is chef/owner of a restaurant. Another small business to seek out and support. Another business card into my bag.

I met the head bartender from one of our favorite restaurants; in fact, the place where we celebrated an anniversary. He noted that their top-selling brand is, yes, from a small winery.

I met folks visiting the area from Oregon. I now have a few recommendations of small wineries in their area to consider on our next tasting trip there.

So it wasn’t just the wineries that were getting increased exposure at the event. My opinion: small businesses need ongoing visibility to survive and even to thrive. That means multiple methods of communication: websites, focused e-mails, social media, word of mouth, any way to get their presence and their story out there.

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Maybe it was just a coincidence. The day after the event, I received an e-mail from a winery. They were liquidating and offering closeout pricing on their remaining inventory. One of those places where I’d signed up for a list years ago, so long ago that I forgot I subscribed to the list. Certainly the first message I’d had from them in years. A case study in what not to do? Possibly.

Since the event, I’ve received e-mails from several of the wineries. Reminders of what was poured, coupon codes for post-event discounts, thank-yous for stopping by. Follow-up and follow-through. Very wise.

If this event was any indication, small wineries remain alive and well. I also realized though, that it’s all about visibility, communication, flexibility, and just being out there.

As a small business owner, I will continue to support the same. Will you consider doing so as well? It is your choice. My choice is….

Small Winery Cheers!

Conference Recap: Specifically Spirits

  By admin | April 29, 2019 - 8:08 am | , ,
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The SWE crew is just back from our first-ever “Specifically Spirits” mini-conference (held in Washington DC on April 26, 2019), and we are pleased to declare it a great success! We’d like to thank our attendees, many of whom were first-time participants in an SWE program. For those of you who couldn’t make it, here are a few of the highlights.

First up: “Herbs and Flowers, Weeds and Seeds: The Beauty of Botanicals” presented by Jane A. Nickles, CSE, CWE (yours truly). This session presented six botanically-infused spirits, while concentrating on the botanical components themselves. Attendees were each provided with nine (super-cute) labeled jars containing the botanicals and were encouraged to sniff, crush, and taste each one. The featured botanicals included juniper berry, coriander seed, angelica root, orris root, cardamom, cubeb berry, bergamot, rose hips, and allspice.

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Each botanical was introduced along with a little bit of scientific (botanical) information, its typical aroma/taste profile, and bits of its local lore. For instance, did you know that allspice is named for its aromas (described as a cross between cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, and clove), but was originally believed to be black pepper—which is while it is often referred to as pimento or pimienta? Or that orris root is the dried root of the lovely iris flower?

The spirits (and botanicals) tasted included the following: Bluecoat American Dry Gin (featuring juniper berry, coriander seed, and angelica root), Drumshanbo Slow Distilled Gunpowder Irish Gin (featuring orris root and cardamom), Bobby’s Schiedam Dry Gin (featuring cubeb berry), Sacred Rosehip cup (featuring rosehips), and Italicus Rosolio di Bergamotto (featuring Bergamotto di Reggio-Calabria). Attendees were gifted a “botanical aroma kit” featuring 10 glass vials with aromatic botanicals as well as a selection of botanical teas and candies.

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Next up was “American Spirit,” presented by Ben Coffelt, CSW and Shields Hood, CSS, CWE. This session traced the history of the United States along with the history of American whiskey. Here’s how Shields and Ben describe the session: George Washington’s presidency. The Civil War. The Railroad. The Industrial Revolution. World War II. Through almost every step of the American journey, one spirit has been our constant companion: whiskey. From early Monongahela ryes to our modern finished bourbons, attendees will learn about the role whiskey has played in American culture and history.

The whiskeys that were presented (and tasted) included the following: Henry McKenna 10 Year Single Barrel Bottled-in-Bond Kentucky Straight Bourbon, Old Forester 1920 Prohibition Style Kentucky Straight Bourbon, Jack Daniel’s Sinatra Select Tennessee Whiskey, Whistle Pig 10 Year Straight Rye Whiskey, and Wild Turkey Master’s Keep Revival Kentucky Straight Bourbon.

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Following lunch, attendees were treated to a session by the name of “That’s the Spirit 2019,” presented by Trudy Thomas, CSE, CSW. Trudy is the Director of Beverage operations at the Gaylord Opryland Resort and Conference Center, and her session revolved around the latest trends that she has observed throughout the resort’s more than twenty food and beverage outlets, as well as her in-depth knowledge of the industry as a whole.

The trends (and spirits) that were featured in Trudy’s session included the following: craft vermouth (featuring Trincheri Sweet Vermouth), drinking globally (featuring Roku Gin), American brandy (featuring Copper & Kings Brandy American Craft Brandy), private barrel programs (featuring Casa Noble Single Barrel Reposado Tequila), and the importance of the story behind the pour (featuring Piggyback Rye).

Our final session of the day was “Cognac: a Culmination of Excellence,” presented by Hugh Lander, CSS. Cognac has long had the reputation as the “king of brandies,” and its quality and complexity place it alongside the finest of fine whiskies. This information-packed session discussed just what it is that makes cognac unique among spirits—starting with the region, the climate, the crus, and the soils.

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Hugh was able to break down the seemingly complicated aging requirements for cognac, and the audience was fascinated to learn that the reason some aging designations are in English (such as VSOP – “very special old pale”) rather than French is that England was historically considered the main market for cognac—and even today a huge majority of cognac is exported (and not consumed by the French)! To wrap it up, we discussed how the numerous regulations cognac must adhere to are actually the result of centuries of best practice in winemaking, distillation, and aging. The cognacs sipped along the way included Courvoisier VS, Remy Martin VSOP, Remy Martin 1738 Accord Royal, and Remy Martin XO.

An hors d’oeuvre reception and walk-around tasting featuring a range of spirits as well as local distilleries provided the capstone to the day. Featured distilleries included One Eight Distilling (Washington DC), Catoctin Creek Distilling Company (Purcellville, VA), Falls Church Distillers (Falls Church, VA), New Columbia Distilling (Green Hat Gin/Washington DC), Republic Restoratives (Washington DC), and KO Distilling (Manassas, VA). In addition, the lovely Sharron McCarthy was on hand to pour a delicious and minty Florio Fernet from Sicily, Sartori di Verona Villa Marzia Limoncello, and Castello Banfi Tuscan Grappa.

And a good time was had by all!

Guest Post: Wine, Vocation, Authenticity

  By admin | April 27, 2019 - 9:20 am |
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Today we have a guest post written by Reverend Paul Bailey discussing wine, vocation, and authenticity. Read on for some excellent insight into all of the above!

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A Champagne does not, so far as I know, spend its life pining to become Madeira; even though both are superb wines.  And the people who make these wines clearly don’t get them mixed up. What they do is work with the wines in such a way that they become most fully what they are intended to be, not what something else is supposed to be.

A person making Madeira wants to make the best Madeira possible, I hope.  Winemakers want their fine wines to most winsomely express their terroir, their heritage, their nature as a particular grape.  And, if they are just making a wine to glug without thinking about it, to make the truest one of those.  What a winemaker wants to do, I hope, is encourage the raw product, the grape, to assume its authentic vocation, to become what the grape really wants to be in fullness, as it becomes wine.

The whole process teaches respect, for the grape, and for the people working with it, and for the earth that makes it all possible.  Authentic vocation is simply doing what you’re supposed to be doing, being who you are supposed to be, hearing one’s deepest interior calling and responding.

Van Gogh's Starry Night - Google Art Project/Public Domain

Van Gogh’s Starry Night – Google Art Project/Public Domain

There are a number of factors to an authentic vocation, but two seem to me prominent.  First, that what you are doing, who you are, is consistent with your personality, your talents, your skills, your hopes and dreams. 

I remember once standing awestruck in front of Van Gogh’s celebrated painting Starry Night and it became so clear that whatever else may have been going on with the artist, he was responding to the talents he had, the skills, the vision, the insistent longing to be a painter.  Troubled as Van Gogh was, he was nevertheless in that sense in harmony with himself, because he wasn’t working against himself, doing something that was at odds with what he longed for or could do. He wasn’t trying to do or to be something that wasn’t him.

Working in the wine world is a fairly esoteric occupation, and I imagine as a result that most people are involved in it because they want to be and are good at what they do.  But, who knows?   So just to ask:  in terms of occupation and just your personality, do you sense that you are living the life you are supposed to live?  Is your work consistent with your personality?  Is your work fun?  Does it satisfy you, meet your deepest longings? Does it perhaps leave you feeling tired and frustrated? What could that be trying to tell you? 

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And the second piece of authentic vocation (whether occupational and personal) for me is that it contains an element of aspiration, that there is something about it that draws you to reach for the stars, to strive, so that whatever it is you are doing, you are not settling, but are always reaching to be better.  Absolute perfection may not exist of course, but that should in no wise discourage us from being on the pilgrimage toward it, because the striving, the careful attention, the learning, the longing, is how great wine is made, and how great people are made.

Winemakers seem to be people that aim high, experiment, adjust, dream. Does your work have you reaching upward?  Conversely, have you fallen into settled habits and don’t desire anything better?  People with authentic vocations seem to be always thirsting, expanding their reach, seeking something greater. Are you wanting to be better; what, in your work or in your life, are you striving for?

What about you? Is your vocation authentic?

Guest post written by Reverend Paul Bailey

 

Dispatch from the Muscadet AOC

  By admin | April 20, 2019 - 11:02 am | ,
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The Erdre River at Nantes

The Erdre River at Nantes

There are some people that consider Muscadet to be a rather uninteresting wine. After all (they may argue), it’s old-fashioned, it is a mono-cépage (wine produced from a single grape variety), and the grape itself—Melon de Bourgogne—is rather neutral in aromas and flavors. 

Others would argue that Muscadet—the leading wine of the Loire Valley’s Pays Nantais and produced in four separate appellations including Muscadet AOC, Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine AOC, Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu AOC, and Muscadet Coteaux de la Loire AOC—is complex, delicious, and fascinating. After all, the Pays Nantais is itself somewhat complicated, with a great diversity in its topography, soils, and micro-climates. Combine that with the fact that the wine is often put through sur lie aging, and you have a region that can produce a wine that may show up in a variety of styles from light, citrus, and mineral-scented to rich, yeasty, and full of tropical fruit flavors.

While we’re on the subject of Muscadet, here are a few more fascinating facts about the grape, the wine, and the region:

The Year was 1937: The Muscadet AOC was originally approved on September 23, 1937—making it one of the oldest AOCs for wine in France. The very first wine-specific AOCs were approved on May 15, 1936.

Photo of Lake Grand-Lieu via www.france-voyage.com

Photo of Lake Grand-Lieu via www.france-voyage.com

La Lac de Grand-Lieu: Lake Grand Lieu (La Lac de Grand-Lieu) is located about 8 miles (14 km) south of the city of Nantes. The lake stretches across 6,000 hectares in winter, when it is considered the largest natural lake in France. Lake Grand Lieu was ceded to the country of France in the early 1980s under the condition that it be declared a national nature reserve. The lake contains four distinct habitats—including open water, a water lily bed, a reed bed and several meadows that flood for six to eight months a year. More than 500 species of plants make their home on the lake, and over 270 species of birds fly through the region each year along their migratory route towards the Atlantic Coast. The area is also home to ducks, geese, otters, and frogs. As the lake is 100% a nature preserve, access is limited and most forms of boating and fishing are not allowed. However, there are 7 members of the traditional fishing community that have been assigned a special authorization to fish during certain times of the year.

Le Muscadet Nouveau est arrivé: Muscadet AOC is allowed to be bottled using the term “Nouveau” or “Primeur.” Muscadet Nouveau AOC may be released on the third Thursday of November (which is, it seems, a very good day to host a wine party).

Map of the Muscader AOC via the INAO

Map of the Muscadet AOC via the INAO

The Muscadet AOC: The Muscadet AOC is large area, starting just east of the place where the Loire River meets the Atlantic Coast and extending inland for almost 55 miles (90 km) to the western edge of the Anjou District. The majority of the area is located within the Loire-Atlantique Département, but small portions extend into the Maine-et-Loire and Vendée Département as well. Many of the vineyards are located to the south and east of the city of Nantes; others are concentrated along the Loire River (and its famous tributaries, including the Sèvre, the Erdre, and the Maine) as well as the area surrounding Grand Lieu Lake.

Clisson, Gorges, and Le Pallet: The Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine AOC, tucked between the Sèvre and the Maine Rivers close to where they flow northwest in the Loire River, contains three (smallish) sub-regions: Clisson, Gorges, and Le Pallet. These three sub-regions are delineated based on soil types—Clisson is granite-based, Gorges rests on clay and gabbro, and Le Pallet is known for gneiss and quartz. Wines labeled with these sub-regions—often referred to as crus—must be produced from grapes grown on these soils. The three sub-regions also have varying requirements for sur lie aging and total aging before release, and wine are often aged on the lees for two years or more. Click here for a map of the sub-regions of the Muscadet Sevre et Maine AOC, via the INAO.

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Le Grand Hiver:  On January 5, 1709, much of Northern Europe woke up to a deep freeze. The freezing temperatures—which spread from England (where they called it “The Great Frost”) across France (where they called it Le Grand Hiver) and Northern Italy, through Scandinavia and parts of Russia—lasted almost three months. This was considered to be the coldest winter in Europe in over 500 years. During this time, Elizabeth Charlotte, the Duchess of Orléans wrote a letter from her Loire Valley home exclaiming, “Never in my life have I seen a winter such as this one; the wine freezes in bottles.” Not long after The Great Frost, red grapes were outlawed in Nantes and the area became (for a time) a white wine-only region. It was during this time that the cold-hardy Melon de Bourgogne grape came to dominate the vineyards of the Pays Nantais.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles, your blog administrator…

Welcome to the World, VCIG Cebreros!

  By admin | April 11, 2019 - 3:25 pm |
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Logo of the DOP Cebreros via http://dopcebreros.com/

Logo of the DOP Cebreros via http://dopcebreros.com/

After several years of application status, the wine region of Cebreros has (as of April 11, 2019) been recognized as a Vino de Calidad Indicación Geográfica (VCiG) by the European Union.

In the Spanish system of wine classification, VCIG wines are included in the protected designation of origin (DOP/PDO) tier. The VCIG classification is seen as a “stepping stone” to the higher designation of origin (DO) status. VCIG areas are considered eligible for promotion to DO after five years.

The new appellation is located in the southern section of the province of Ávila, which is itself located in southern section of the autonomous community of Castilla y León. The region stretches across 35 municipalities and includes a portion of the Sierra de Gredos mountain range as well as the valleys of the Alberche and the Tiétar Rivers (both tributaries of the Tagus/Tejo).

The area has a long history of wine production, dating as far back as 1273 when the oak forests of the area began to be cleared to make room for agriculture, including vineyards and wine production. These days, the area has over 375 hectares (927 acres) planted to vine. 70% of the vineyards are Garnacha Tinta (red Grenache), sometimes known by the local name “Gironet.” The remainder is mostly Albilla Real (a white variety).

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The VCIG is approved for the production of still (non-sparkling) wines in red, white, and rosé. Some of the details of these wines are as follows:

  • Red Wines: Must be produced from a minimum of 95% Garnacha Tinta, should be “clear in appearance, with cherry-red tones and touches of violet;” minimum 13% abv
  • White wines: Must be produced using 100% Albillo Real grapes, should be “clear and brilliant, with a fruity fragrance;” minimum 12% abv
  • Rosé wines: Must be produced from a minimum of 95% Garnacha Tinta, should be “clear and brilliant, and their color ranges from pale pink to strawberry-pink or raspberry;” minimum 12% abv
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The VCIG Cebreros is not located within any of Spain’s other protected designations of origin (PDOs) for wine. It is, however, located within the larger Vino de la Tierra-Castilla y León appellation (a protected geographical indication, or PGI) that covers the entirety of the autonomous community of Castilla y León.

Welcome to the world, VCIG Cebreros!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles, your blog administrator

Meet the Board: Meg Hansen, CSW, CSS

  By admin | April 6, 2019 - 12:18 am | ,
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Meg Hansen enjoying a tasting at Frank Family Vineyard in Napa

Meg Hansen enjoying a tasting at Frank Family Vineyard in Napa

Meg (Margaret) Hansen, CSW, CSS is one of the newest members of the Society of Wine Educators (SWE) Board of Directors. Several years ago, Meg experienced an amusing “accidental” introduction to SWE as she was serving on the wine committee of the Minnehaha Country Club. It seems that the club’s chef was scheduled to take the Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) exam, but by the time the exam rolled around he was no longer employed there. As such, Meg had a “last minute” opportunity to step up and take the exam and by doing so, became determined to learn more about wine and to achieve the CSW. Within a short time, she had earned the CSW as well as the Hospitality Beverage Specialist Certificate (HBSC) and the Certified Specialist of Spirits (CSS) as well. Meg is currently a Certified Wine Educator (CWE) aspirant and has attended the last three conferences as well as dozens of our certification summits and webinars!

In her professional life, Meg is a physician assistant who at one time practiced in the allergy and asthma field and served as a professor in the South Dakota University physician assistant program. For the past 13 years she has been the executive director of the South Dakota Board of Medical and Osteopathic Examiners—the licensing board for physicians and allied health professions who hold a South Dakota license.

As the chair of the Minnehaha Country Club’s wine committee, Meg leads a group that organizes monthly wine dinners and tastings designed to educate the club’s staff, members, and public guests about the wide world of wine and spirits. She wears her CSW and CSS pins at every opportunity and if they do not get noticed, much to the chagrin of her family, she is more than happy to point them out.

Welcome to the Board, Meg Hansen!

Dispatch from Vinos de Madrid DO (and the announcement of a new sub-region)!

  By admin | April 3, 2019 - 7:45 am | ,
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Madrid is a beautiful city, known for world-class dining amazing scenery, and beautiful architecture. If you visit, you’ll want to take in the Prado Museum as well as the Museo Reina Sofia, Retiro Park, the Gran Via, and the Palacio Real (just to get you started).

Madrid is also the name given to one of the seventeen autónomias (autonomous communities) of Spain. The autónomia of Madrid is located somewhat in the middle of the country, bordering Castilla–La Mancha and Castilla y León. The city of Madrid is the capital city of the area and—with a population of over 3 million people—by far the largest.

Logo via: http://www.vinosdemadrid.es/es/

Logo via: http://www.vinosdemadrid.es/es/

The autónomia of Madrid is also a wine-producing area, and has its own geographical indication: Vinos de Madrid Denominación de Origen (DO). The Vinos de Madrid produces a wide range of wines, including tinto (red), blanco (white), and rosado (rosé). The main authorized grape varieties for these wines are as follows:

  • Red and rosé: Tinto Fino (Tempranillo), Garnacha Tinta (Grenache Noir), Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, or Syrah
  • White: Malvar, Albillo (Albillo Real), Airén, Viura (Macabeo), Torrontés, Parellada, Moscatel de Grano Menudo (Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains)

Traditional Method sparkling wines—known as Vino Espumoso—are produced as well. Vino Espumoso de Madrid is required to be aged on the lees for a minimum of 9 months; however, the only producer in the region—Bodegas Jesús Díaz e Hijos—ages their bubbly sur lie for at least three years. The grapes allowed in the sparkling wines of Vinos de Madrid DO include the following Albillo (Albillo Real), Torrontés, Viura (Macabeo), Parellada, Malvar, Garnacha Tinta (Grenache Noir) and Tinto Fino (Tempranillo).

Map via www.vinosdemadrid.es

Map via www.vinosdemadrid.es

The DO is also approved for the production of a unique wine known as Vino Sobremadre. Vino Sobremadre is produced in both red and white styles, and involves a post-fermentation maceration of 90 to 180 days on the grape skins and lees (the madre).

The Vinos de Madrid DO was first established in 1990. Soon thereafter, three sub-regions— Arganda, Navalcarnero, and San Martín de Valdeiglesias—were approved. On March 20, 2019, the Consejo Regulador announced a new sub-region to be known as El Molar.

The new sub-region of ​​El Molar is the only one located in the north of the Vinos de Madrid region, and currently has approximately 600 hectares (1,500 acres) planted to vine (mainly Granacha Tinta and Malvar). The El Molar region stretches between the River Guadalix and the River Jarama, stretching into the Sierra Norte de Madrid Mountains (part of the Sierra de Guadarrama Range) and the Jarama Valley. Wineries in this area are located just to the north of the city of Madrid—and close enough for a day trip. If you leave by 5 pm, you can be back in the city for dinner at the Mercado de San Miguel.

 References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles, your blog administrator

Lucky Lucido

  By admin | March 16, 2019 - 11:07 am | ,
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According to the website of the Consorzio di tutela vini Sicilia DOC, wines produced from the Cataratto Bianco Comune and Cataratto Bianco Lucido varieties may now be labeled using the term “Lucido.”

Lucido is a historical name for the Catarrato grape, and the Consorzio has taken this step due to the belief that the grape variety “Cataratto” is not widely known, and—particularly in the international markets—considered hard to pronounce. It is believed that these factors are making the wine less appealing to some consumers.

Catarrato is an ancient grape variety and native to the island of Sicily. According to Jancis Robinson, et al, in the book Wine Grapes, it was described as a Sicilian wine grape in 1696 by the Italian naturalist Francesco Cupani in the work “Hortus Catholicus.” Catarrato/Lucido is believed to be an offspring of the Garganega grape variety (which is itself best-known famous as the main grape variety of the Soave DOC). Garganega is also mentioned as the likely parent of Albana, Malvasia Bianca, and Trebbiano Toscano (among others)—giving the grape many possible siblings. Catarrato itself—along with Muscat of Alexandria—is believed to be the parent of Grillo, another important Sicilian variety.

Photo via: siciliadoc.wine/en/

Photo via: siciliadoc.wine/en/

Two “types” of Catarrato are often cited in wine documents (and wine labels): Cataratto Bianco Comune and Cataratto Bianco Lucido. Previously, it was assumed that these terms represented two distinct grape varieties, but recent evidence has shown that they are merely two clones of the same variety. According to Wine Grapes, it is proper to use the name “Catarrato Bianco” to refer to either clone. In this new ruling by the Consorzio of the Silcilia DOC, the name Lucido may apply to either clone.

Catarrato is the most widely grown grape on the island of Sicily, and despite its relative lack of acclaim, is the second-most-widely grown white grape in all of Italy. One reason for its relative obscurity is no doubt that a good deal of Catarrato grapes are used in wine destined for distillation, as grape concentrate, or in the production of sweet versions of Marsala. However, when grown in optimal conditions and used to produce a varietal or blended wine, it can be quite interesting. Well-done Catarrato-based wines tend to show aromas and flavors of citrus (lemon, tangerine, grapefruit), red apples, fresh herbs, almonds,  and a distinct minerality. Such wines tend to be somewhat full-bodied and rich in floral aromas, often leading to a comparison with varietal wines produced from Viognier.

Photo via: www.donnafugata.it

Photo via: www.donnafugata.it

One of the most widely-distributed Catarrato/Lucido-based wines I have found is Donnafugata Anthìlia Sicilia DOC. According to the winery website, “The 2018 vintage is characterized by a fresh and fragrant bouquet with fruity and floral notes. A very versatile wine, ideal with fish and vegetarian first and second courses.”

While Catarrato/Lucido is often used to produce a single-variety wine, it is also an excellent blending partner with other international and native Sicilian grapes. Typical blending partners for Catarrato/Lucido include Chardonnay, Grillo, Inzolia, Viogner, and Fiano.

In addition to the Sicilia DOC, the Catarrato grape  is approved for use in the wines of many of the DOCs of Sicily, including the Alcama DOC, Etna DOC, Salaparuta DOC, and the Marsala DOC (among others). At this point, it is unclear whether or not the “Lucido” synonym will be used (or allowed to be used) outside of the Sicilia DOC.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles, your blog administrator…

The New DACs: Südsteiermark, Vulkanland Steiermark, and Weststeiermark

  By admin | March 9, 2019 - 12:02 pm | ,
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Riegersburg Castle Steiermark

Riegersburg Castle Steiermark

Late last year, the wine world began to hear rumblings of three new Districtus Austriae Controllatus- (DAC-) designated wine-growing regions to be confirmed in the Austrian state of Styria (Steiermark). As of March 3, 2019, we can confirm that these three new DACs— Südsteiermark DAC, Vulkanland Steiermark DAC, and Weststeirmark DAC—have published their Verordnungen (regulations) and are officially in force..

The wines of all three new DAC regions may be produced under the following classifications:

  • Gebietswein: Regional wine
  • Ortswein:  “Village wine” from certain designated villages
  • Riedenwein: Single-vineyard wines from classified estates

Read on for a summary of the new regulations concerning these wine regions.

Vineyards surrounding Riegersburg Castle

Vineyards surrounding Riegersburg Castle

Südsteiermark DAC: Sauvignon Blanc, the leading grape of the Südsteiermark, is planted in nearly 20% of the region’s vineyards. However, this is a large growing area—currently there are 6,234 acres/2,563 hectares planted to vine; and Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay are well-represented as well. The area makes for a stunning landscape, with rolling hills punctuated by staggering slopes—some with an incline as steep as 45°. The soils in the flatter regions are primarily marine sediment, while the hills and slopes contain marl and conglomerate soils. The climate during the growing season tends to warm and humid days combined with cool nights, allowing for a long vegetative cycle and complex, concentrated grapes. 

Other details of the Südsteiermark DAC include the following:

  • Grapes allowed: Welschriesling, Pinot Blanc, Morillon (Chardonnay), Pinot Gris, Riesling, Muscat, Sauvignon Blanc, and Traminer (Savignin); wine may be single-variety or blends. Grapes must be hand-harvested.
  • Required aging: Wines made from Welschriesling grapes may be sold at any time; for all other varieties, the wine may not be sold before March 1 of the year following harvest. Wines designated by a village or single vineyard (Riedenwein) designation may have longer required minimum aging times.
  • Wine Styles: Wines are required to be vinified dry and have a stated maximum of 0.4% RS. Wines produced from Riesling or Traminer (Savignin) must display the word “Trocken” (dry) on the label.
  • Ortswein: Designated “villages” approved for the production of Ortswein include Kitzeck-Sausal, Eichberg, Leutschach, Gamlitz, and Ehrenhausen.
Uhrtum Clock Tower

Uhrtum Clock Tower

Vulkanland Steiermark DAC: As its name implies, Vulkanland Steiermark is rich in volcanic soils often said to help imbue the wines of the region with a distinct character that has been described as “mineral-spice.” The area has 3,765 acres/1,524 ha planted to vines, many of them planted on the slopes of the area’s long-dormant volcanoes, some reaching elevations as high as 1,968 feet/600 meters. The area has a particular affinity for rich, medium-to-full-bodied Sauvignon Blanc, assisted by the warm, dry days and cool, crisp nights typical of the growing season. Klöcher Traminer, known for a rich floral aroma redolent of roses, is sometimes made as a semi-sweet (halbtrocken) wine, and is one of the few wines of the region that may be produced in fully sweet style (labeled as a Prädikatswein).

Other details of the Vulkanland Steiermark DAC include the following:

  • Grapes allowed: Welschriesling, Pinot Blanc, Morillon (Chardonnay), Pinot Gris, Riesling, Muscat, Sauvignon Blanc, Traminer (Savignin); wine may be single-variety or blends. Grapes must be hand-harvested.
  • Required aging: Wines made from Welschriesling grapes may be sold at any time; for all other varieties, the wine may not be sold before March 1 of the year following harvest. Wines designated by a village or a single vineyard (Riedenwein) designation may have longer required minimum aging times.
  • Wine Styles: With a few exceptions (as detailed below), wines are required to be vinified dry and have a stated maximum of 0.4% RS. Wines produced from Riesling or Traminer (Savignin Blanc) must display the word “Trocken” (dry) on the label.
  • Ortswein: Designated “villages” approved for the production of Ortswein include Klöch, Straden, St. Peter, Tieschen, St. Anna, Kapfenstein, Riegersburg and Oststeiermark.
  • Unique Sweets: Klöcher Traminer, which may be produced in a semi-dry style, or—if labeled as a Prädikatswein—as a sweet wine, may not be sold until April 1 of the year following the harvest.
The Municipality of Puch bei Weiz

The Municipality of Puch bei Weiz

Weststeirmark (West Styria) DAC: There are currently about 1,350 acres/546 ha planted to vine and 127 wineries located in Weststeiermark. The terroir of Weststeiermark is described as rolling hills punctuated by steep inclines, many of which house vines at elevations of up to 1,970 feet/600 m. The climate during the growing period is warm and quite humid. The soil of Westeiermark is based on a combination of gneiss and mica-rich schist.

As of the publication of the new Westeiermark DAC, the “Schilcherland DAC” for Schilcher Rosé (approved in October of 2017) is no longer in force—however, the wine continues to be produced as a specialty of the area, labeled as “Schilcher Klassik Westeiermark DAC.” A range of styles of Schilcher Rosé are permitted, include still, frizzante, and fully sparkling.

Other details of the Weststeiermark DAC include the following:

  • Grapes allowed: Blauer Wildbacher (Schilcher), Welschriesling, Pinot Blanc, Morillon (Chardonnay), Pinot Gris, Riesling, Muscat, Sauvignon Blanc, and Traminer (Savignin); wine may be single-variety or blends. Grapes must be hand-harvested.
  • Required aging: Wines produced from Welschriesling and Blauer Wildbacher (Schilcher) grapes may be sold at any time; for all other varieties, the wine may not be sold before March 1 of the year following harvest. Wines designated by a village or single vineyard (Riedenwein) designation may have longer required minimum aging times.
  • Wine Styles: Wines are required to be vinified dry and have a stated maximum of 0.4% RS. Wines produced from Riesling or Traminer (Savignin Blanc) must display the word “Trocken” (dry) on the label.
  • Ortswein: Designated “villages” approved for the production of Ortswein include Ligist, Stainz, Deutschlandsberg, and Eibiswald.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles, your blog administrator…