Category Archives: News of The Wine World

There’s a New Grape in Town: Ciliegiolo

  By admin | November 17, 2020 - 10:11 am | ,
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Photo of Ciliegiolo by Fabio Ingrosso via Wikimedia Commons

Photo of Ciliegiolo by Fabio Ingrosso via Wikimedia Commons

The TTB (Trade and Tobacco Tax Bureau of the US government) recently approved the (red) Ciliegiolo grape variety for use on American wine labels. This means that we may soon be able to purchase varietally-labeled Ciliegiolo wines produced and distributed in the US!

The name Ciliegiolo translates (in Italian) to small cherry and is said to indicate the cherry-like aroma of the fresh grapes. Ciliegiolo has been determined to be related to Sangiovese, and is most likely the result of a natural (once-upon-a-time) cross of Sangiovese and Calabrese di Montenuovo (a red grape, native to Campania that is also assumed to be a parent of Sangiovese).

There are currently about 7,600 acres (3,100 ha) of Ciliegiolo grown in Italy. Most of it is found in Tuscany, but small amounts are believed to be growing in many other regions of Italy as well. It is assumed that only around 10% of the total plantings are used in PDO wines; most of the rest is used in IGT wines or makes its way into wines classified simply as “vino.”

Graphic via: www.sassotondo.it/en/ciliegiolo

Graphic via: www.sassotondo.it/en/ciliegiolo

Ciliegiolo is allowed for use in several IGT wines of Italy, including Toscana IGT, Veneto IGT, and Campania IGT. As such, it may show up in DOC/DOCG wines under the allowance that many such appellations have for small amounts of “other” grapes permitted to be used in the blend. For instance, in the Chianti DOCG, winemakers may include a “maximum 30% combined other grapes authorized for Toscana.” Ciliegiolo is listed a primary grape variety in a list of Italian DOC/DOCG wines—I counted 16, most of them somewhat obscure—to include the Amelia DOC (Umbria), Colline Lucchesi DOC (Tuscany), and Portofino DOC (Liguria).

Sassotondo Estate, located in Sovana, produces a 100% Ciliegiolo wine that is bottled under the Maremma Toscana DOC. The winery website describes the wine a “ruby red in color” and with aromas and flavors of “red fruits, plum, licorice, and the typical touch of ground white pepper.”

It will be fascinating to see how this Ciliegiolo grape fares in the US!

Click here to see the full list of grapes recently awarded administrative approval for use on American wine labels, per the website of the TTB.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Welcome to the World, Terre Alfieri DOCG!

  By admin | October 22, 2020 - 7:38 am | ,
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Photo of the town of Magliano Alfieri by Alessandro Vecchi, via Wikimedia Commons

Photo of the town of Magliano Alfieri by Alessandro Vecchi, via Wikimedia Commons

Piedmont’s Terre Alfieri wine region has just been promoted from a denominazione di origine controllata (DOC) to a denominazione di origine controllata e garantita (DOCG) wine producing region!

With this latest promotion, Italy is now home to 76 DOCGs. Terre Alfieri is the 18th such region located in Piedmont—solidifying Piedmont’s “first place” status among Italy’s 20 regions in terms of number of DOCGs (Veneto is second, having a total of 14).

The Terre Alfieri DOCG—located just to the east (and slightly north) of the Roero DOCG—includes seven communes located in the province of Asti (Antignano, Celle Enomondo, Cisterna, Revigliasco, San Damiano, San Martino Alfieri, and Tigliole) and four in the province of Cuneo (Castellinaldo, Govone, Magliano Alfieri, and Priocca).

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Terrie Alfieri DOCG produces two styles of wine: red wines based on Nebbiolo and white wines based on Arneis. These are the same two styles of wine that were previously made when the region was a DOC, and the same two that its neighbor—the Roero DOCG—produces. A few rules and regulations have been updated with the recent promotion to DOCG status, which now reflects the following standards:

  • Terre Alfieri Arneis: minimum 85% Arneis, minimum 12% abv
  • Terre Alfieri Arneis Superiore: minimum 85% Arneis, minimum 12.5% abv, minimum 6 months aging
  • Terre Alfieri Nebbiolo: minimum 85% Nebbiolo, minimum 13% abv, minimum 4 months aging
  • Terre Alfieri Nebbiolo Superiore: minimum 85% Nebbiolo, minimum 13.5% abv, minimum 1 year of aging (including 6 months in wood)
  • Terre Alfieri Nebbiolo Riserva: minimum 85% Nebbiolo, minimum 13.5% abv, minimum 2 years of aging (including one year in wood)

The region—named for the noble Alfieri family that ruled these lands many generations ago—was first awarded DOC status in 2009.

Welcome to the world, Terre Alfieri DOCG!

Note: As with all such updates, this change will need to wind its way through EU approval; however, as the Italian government has granted their approval, the changes can be implemented in the meantime. Most likely, the Terre Alfieri DOCG will apply as of the release of the wines of the 2020 vintage. If the EU fails to approve the amendment, the regulation will be rescinded (although this seems unlikely to happen).

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Nyons: and then there were 22 (Geographic Designations of the Côtes du Rhône-Villages AOC)

  By admin | October 20, 2020 - 9:29 am | ,
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Photo of the Pont de Nyons by M. Minderhoud, via Wikimedia Commons

Photo of the Pont de Nyons by M. Minderhoud, via Wikimedia Commons

Congratulations are in order for the commune of Nyons! Nyons has very recently been promoted from the large pool of 90+ communes that produce wine under the Côtes du Rhône-Villages AOC; and is now a designated geographical designation (dénomination géographique complémentaire) of the appellation. This means that we will soon be able to see red wines labeled under the Côtes du Rhône-Villages-Nyons AOC.

Nyons is a commune (population around 8,000) located in the Drôme department of southeastern France. The commune—situated squarely within the eastern side of the Rhône Valley vineyard area—can be found about 5 miles (8 km) east/northeast of the Vinsobres AOC. The town straddles the Aigues (Eygues) River—a tributary of the Rhône that flows from its source in the Baronnies Mountains for about 80 miles/112 km before it joins the Rhône at the town of Caderousse.

The town is notable for the medieval Pont de Nyons (Nyons Bridge) built between 1361 and 1407 CE (and still in use)! The bridge boasts a single span of 40.53 meters/133 feet, which was an impressive feat of engineering at the time.

In addition to its powerful red wines (cultivated in the region since Roman times), Nyons is famous for its olive orchards, processed olives, and olive oil. Two distinctive products of the region—olives noires de Nyons (black olives of Nyons) and huile d’olive de Nyons (olive oil of Nyons)—have protected geographical indication (PGI) status in the EU.

For serious students of wine: Nyons is the 22nd locality allowed to append its name to the AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages (you can find the complete updated list by clicking on the new Côtes du Rhône-Villages cahier des charges, linked below). The Côtes du Rhône-Villages AOC is mainly known for its red wines (based around Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Syrah), but produces some white blends and rosé as well. However, the geographic designation of Nyons is approved for the production of red wines only.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Welcome to the World, Ruster Ausbruch DAC!

  By admin | October 12, 2020 - 9:03 am |
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Map of the Ruster Ausbruch DAC via the Austrian Wine Marketing Board

Map of the Ruster Ausbruch DAC via the Austrian Wine Marketing Board

The historic, botrytis-affected sweet white wines produced in and around the Austrian city of Rust now have their own PDO (protected designation of origin). Welcome to the world, Ruster Ausbruch DAC! (DAC = Districtus Austriae Controllatus, which translates roughly to controlled Austrian district for the production of wine.) This makes for a total of 16 DAC regions in Austria, with the Ruster Ausbruch DAC being the first (and only) such designation exclusively for sweet wines.

Ruster Ausbruch DAC may be produced using any of the white grapes approved for use in the region. It may be produced as a single-variety wine or as a blend. The most commonly used grapes include Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc), Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris), Chardonnay (Morillon), Muskateller (Muscat), and Furmint.

The regulations for Ruster Ausbruch DAC include the following:

  • Must be produced exclusively from grapes harvested in the Free City of Rust
  • Must be entirely produced and bottled within the designated region
  • May be produced using any combination of the Qualitätswein grape varieties permitted in the region (white grapes only); approved grapes include Pinot Blanc (Weissburgunder), Muscat (Muskateller), Pinot Gris (Grauburgunder), Furmint, Chardonnay, Neuburger, and Welschriesling
  • Must comply with basic requirements for Trockenbeerenauslese grapes and wine
  • Mandatory harvesting by hand; selectively-picked botrytis-affected berries
  • Minimum must weight at harvest: 30° KMW
  • Minimum residual sugar: 45 g/l
Photo of the town of Rust by Herbert Lehmann, via the Austrian Wine Marketing Board

Photo of the town of Rust by Herbert Lehmann, via the Austrian Wine Marketing Board

Welcome to the world, Ruster Ausbruch DAC!

Note: As with all such updates, this change will need to wind its way through EU approval; however, as the Austrian government has granted their approval, the changes can be implemented in the meantime. Most likely, the Ruster Ausbruch DAC will apply as of the release of the wines of the 2020 vintage. If the EU fails to approve the amendment, the regulation will be rescinded (although this seems unlikely to happen).

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Welcome to the World, Candy Mountain AVA!

  By admin | September 25, 2020 - 4:30 pm | ,
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Photo of the Candy Mountain Vineyard by Kevin Pogue (provided by the Washington State Wine Commission)

Photo of the Candy Mountain Vineyard by Kevin Pogue (provided by the Washington State Wine Commission)

On September 24, 2020, the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States approved the Candy Mountain AVA. When this new AVA comes into force—on October 26, 2020—the total number of AVAs in the United States will be 251, of which 16 will be in Washington State.

Candy Mountain, located to the southeast of the Red Mountain AVA, is now the smallest AVA in Washington State (an honor previously held by Red Mountain). The new AVA lies entirely within the existing Yakima Valley AVA; however, the boundaries of the Yakima Valley AVA had to be expanded by 72 acres in order to make this possible. (This expansion was part of the approval process of the new AVA, and part of the “Final Rule” as published by the TTB.)

Map of the Candy Mountain AVA via Google Earth (provided by Heather Bradshaw of the Washington State Wine Commission)

Map of the Candy Mountain AVA via Google Earth and  Heather Bradshaw (provided by the Washington State Wine Commission)

The Candy Mountain AVA covers a total of 815 acres, with just over 110 acres currently planted to vines. There are two commercial vineyards—Candy Mountain Vineyard and Kitzke Cellars—in the area; Kitzke Cellars is a bonded winery specializing in Bordeaux-style blends. Plans for another bonded winery as well as an additional 200 acres of vines are in the works.

Candy Mountain is part of a chain of four small mountains in the area which includes Red Mountain, Badger Mountain, and Little Badger Mountain (all are part of the larger Yakima Fold Belt). The vineyards of the Candy Mountain AVA are on the mountain’s southwest-facing slope, on an incline that ranges from 2° to 20°. The soils are mainly thin, well-drained loess (wind-blown) silt atop basalt bedrock. The vines are planted at elevations ranging from 640 to 1,360 feet above sea level.  This is a warm, windy area; and rainfall is meager—sometimes as little as 6 to 8 inches per year.

The leading grapes of the appellation include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese, and Syrah.

Welcome to the world, Candy Mountain AVA!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

At Long Last: The Pouilly-Fuissé AOC has 22 official Premier Crus!

  By admin | September 4, 2020 - 8:29 pm | ,
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Photo via: https://www.pouilly-fuisse.net/en/

Photo via: https://www.pouilly-fuisse.net/en/

More than 12 years after the beginning of the process, the Pouilly-Fuissé AOC has 22 official premier crus!

As reported by Frédéric-Marc Burrier, president of the Union des Producteurs de Pouilly-Fuissé, the application process for France’s newest premier cru appellations began with an in-depth study of the soil, topography, and history of the Pouilly-Fuissé area. This part of the project included creating a detailed map of the appellation’s 217 lieux-dits and the painstaking delineation of the 22 plots that would hold the area’s highest classification (all of which had to be approved by the organization’s 250 member-producers).

The application was approved by France’s Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité (INAO) on September 3, 2020. The newly-approved premier crus represent 194 hectares—24% of the total area of the Pouilly-Fuissé AOC—and are spread over the four communes of the appellation: Chaintré, Fuissé, Solutré-Pouilly and Vergisson.

The Pouilly-Fuissé AOC, famous for white wines made using 100% Chardonnay, is located in Burgundy’s Mâconnais region. Pouilly-Fuissé is one of the five well-known, white-wine producing communal AOCs of the Mâconnais.  (For the wine students: the others include the Viré-Clessé, Saint-Véran, Pouilly-Vinzelles, and Pouilly-Loché AOCs.)

Pouilly-Fuissé is the first appellation of the Mâconnais to officially recognize specific climats as premier crus. The list is as follows:

  • Commune de Chaintré
    • Le Clos de Monsieur Noly
    • Les Chevrières
    • Aux Quarts
    • Le Clos Reyssier
  • Commune de Fuissé
    • Le Clos
    • Les Brulés
    • Les Ménétrières
    • Les Reisses
    • Les Vignes Blanches
    • Les Perrières
    • Vers Cras (shared with Solutré-Pouilly)
  • Commune de Solutré-Pouilly
    • La Frérie
    • Le Clos de Solutré
    • Au Vignerais
    • En Servy
    • Aux Bouthières
    • Aux Chailloux
    • Pouilly
    • Vers Cras (shared with Fuissé)
  • Commune de Vergisson
    • Les Crays
    • La Maréchaude
    • Sur la Roche
    • En France

Update: As of April of 2021, this amendment was approved by the EU.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Welcome to the World, Royal Slope AVA!

  By admin | September 2, 2020 - 12:29 pm | ,
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Photo of Royal Slope Vineyards, courtesy of Stillwater Creek Vineyard (via https://www.washingtonwine.org/)

Photo of Royal Slope Vineyards, courtesy of Stillwater Creek Vineyard (via https://www.washingtonwine.org/)

As for today (September 2, 2020) the world is poised to receive another American Viticulture Area: The Royal Slope AVA! When this new AVA comes into force—on October 2, 2020— total number of AVAs in the United States will be 250, of which 15 will be in Washington State.

The Royal Slope AVA—located in Washington State, entirely within the larger Columbia Valley AVA— is tucked between the Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley AVA (to the north), and Wahluke Slope AVA (to the south). The Royal Slope area is somewhat cooler than the Wahluke Slope, but considerably warmer than the Ancient Lakes region.

Royal Slope MapThe area is almost entirely located on a series of gently rolling, south-facing slopes with elevations ranging from 610 feet (186 m) to 1,756 feet (535 m) above sea level.  One corner of the area—known as the Frenchman Hills—was high enough to be unaffected by the Missoula Floods.

There are currently just over 1,900 acres/768 hectares planted to vines in the Royal Slope AVA. Over 20 different varieties of grapes are grown in the area, which currently contains 13 commercial vineyards and one bonded winery (Foxy Roxy Wines).

The Royal Slope area is famous for having produced Washington State’s first-ever 100-point Syrah (Wine Enthusiast): Charles Smith’s Royal City Syrah 2006, crafted using grapes sourced from Stoneridge Vineyard.

Welcome to the world, Royal Slope AVA!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Welcome to the World, Alisos Canyon AVA (and the Goldilocks Rhône Zone)!

  By admin | August 26, 2020 - 10:01 am |
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Map via: ttb.gov/wine/ava-map-explorer

Map via: ttb.gov/wine/ava-map-explorer

Santa Barbara County (located within California’s Central Coast AVA) has a new appellation: the Alisos Canyon AVA! The new AVA is located north of Highway 101, filling the gap between the Santa Maria Valley (to the north) and the Santa Ynez Valley AVA (to the south and east). With this new addition, Santa Barbara County will have a total of seven AVAs.

The new AVA will be effective as of September 24, 2020, at which time the total number of AVAs in the United States will be 249, of which 140 are in California.

The petition for the new AVA highlighted the following as some of the unique characteristics of the region:

  • Sandstone and shale-based soils, including a good deal of viticulturally significant Paso Robles formation soils (gravel [shale pebbles] combined with sand, clay, and limestone)
  • A consistent and unique climate (as compared to the areas that surround it); specifically, warmer (and with less fog) than the areas to the west and north, but cooler than those to the east.
  • Cooling maritime influence funneled into the region along the San Antonio Creek Drainage basin
  • Elevations ranging from 673 feet/205 meters to 1412 feet/430 meters
Geologic map of the Alisios Canyon AVA, via the original petition as submitted to the TTB

Geologic map of the Alisios Canyon AVA, via the original petition as submitted to the TTB

The area has been praised as being ideal for Rhône varieties, and has even earned the nickname “Goldilocks Rhône Zone” for its perfect balance of not-too-hot and not-too-cold.

The name of the AVA is derived from the traditional name of the eponymous canyon, “Cañada de los Alisos,” which translates to Canyon of the White Alder Trees.

To date, there are close to 240 acres of vines and nine commercially-producing vineyards, as well as one bonded winery—Martian Ranch and Vineyard—within the Alisos Canyon AVA.

Welcome to the world, Alisos Canyon AVA!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Dispatch from the Muscadet AOC

  By admin | August 19, 2020 - 7:11 am | ,
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The Muscadet AOC—known for crisp, dry, white wines based on the Melon (Melon de Bourgogne) grape variety—is located on the western edge of the Pays Nantais. While several appellations bear the name Muscadet, the over-arching Muscadet AOC encompasses the others—Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine AOC, Muscadet Coteaux de la Loire AOC, and Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu AOC. The Muscadet AOC contains 20,840 acres/8,430 ha of vines—including 3,950 acres/1,600 ha of vines approved just for the general appellation.

Recently, the Cahier de Charges for the Muscadet AOC has been revised (approved by the INAO as of April 28, 2020) and there are a few minor changes to report. Note that these changes apply only to the Muscadet AOC and for the time being, the rules and regulations for the other three Muscadets remain unchanged.

Here are the major updates:

  • Chardonnay is now listed as an accessory variety and up to 10% can be included in the blend. (Previously, Muscadet was required to be 100% Melon de Bourgogne with no other varieties allowed).
  • The amount of time that the wine is aged on the lees will be limited; the wines must be separated from the lees no later than July 31 of the year following harvest. (“Les vins sont séparés de leurs lies fines de vinification au plus tard le 31 juillet de l’année qui suit celle de la récolte”.) In practice, this limits the potential amount of sur lie aging to about ten months.
  • The term “sur lie” will not be allowed to be part of the wine’s name nor identification for products of the Muscadet AOC. It’s interesting to note that the term “sur lie” is conspicuously absent from the entire document, while the rules of the other three Muscadets specifically state that the wine’s name (the AOC) may be supplemented by the mention “sur lie” as long as the wine meets the defined production standards for use of the term.
Map of the Muscadet AOC via the INAO

Map of the Muscadet AOC via the INAO

In the  fine print of the new regulations (the section labeled as description des facteurs humains contribuant au lien/contributing human factors), it is explained that the producers of Muscadet AOC are moving away from the practice of sur lie aging in order to differentiate their wines from those of the other three Muscadets (Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine AOC, Muscadet Coteaux de la Loire AOC, and Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu AOC).

It looks like we can expect the Muscadet AOC of the future to be delicate, crisp, and dry with aromas of citrus (lemon, lime), green fruit (green apple, green pear), stone fruit (nectarine), fresh herbs, and white flowers. Sounds delicious!

Note: As with all such updates, this change will need to wind its way through EU approval; but (with the approval of the INAO) the changes can be implemented in the meantime. (Most likely this will apply as of the release of the wines of the 2020 vintage.) If the EU fails to approve the amendment, the regulation will be rescinded (although this seems unlikely to happen).

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Vlottenburg: An Eighth Ward for Stellenbosch

  By admin | August 2, 2020 - 12:52 pm | ,
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Photo of the Eerste River after heavy rains by Helononline via Wikimedia Commons

Photo of the Eerste River after heavy rains by Helononline via Wikimedia Commons

And then there were eight (wards of Stellenbosch): welcome to the world, Vlottenburg Ward!

A few weeks ago, the Wine and Spirit Board of South Africa announced the registration of the Vlottenburg Ward as part of the Stellenbosch Wine District. Stellenbosch—located in the Coastal Region of the Western Cape—is one of the best-known wine production areas of South Africa, as well as the educational and research center of the Cape Winelands.

The Vlottenburg Ward is located somewhat in the north central portion of Stellenbosch, between the southeastern edge of the Polkadraai Hills Ward and the Eerste River. The Eerste River arises in the Jonkershoek Mountains and flows west—directly through the Spier Estate—on its short (25-mile/40-km) journey to the Cape Flats and out to the Atlantic Ocean at False Bay.

WOSA Map of Stellenbosch with the previous seven wards highlighted; the red outline is the (unofficial) outline of the Vlottenburg Ward.

WOSA Map of Stellenbosch with the previous seven wards highlighted; the red outline is the (unofficial) outline of the Vlottenburg Ward.

The Vlottenburg Ward consists mainly of one southeast-facing hillside that slopes towards the Eerste River. As this is the Southern Hemisphere, the south-facing slopes create a cooler microclimate compared to the flat lands and northern-facing slopes that surround the area. The soils are primarily well-weathered granite, sand, and Table Mountain sandstone.

Some very well-known wineries are located within the boundaries of the Vlottenburg Ward. These include Spier Estate, Stellendrift, Boschkloof, and Skilpadvlei. This is a beautiful area and a wonderful home base for wine tourism in South Africa (once we are all able to travel safely).

With the approval of Vlottenburg, the Stellenbosch District now contains eight specific viticultural areas referred to as wards. Advanced students of wine might want to be able to recite the new list of the eight wards of Stellenbosch (in alphabetical order): Banghoek, Bottelary, Devon Valley, Jonkershoek Valley, Papegaaiberg, Polkadraai Hills, Simonsberg-Stellenbosch, and Vlottenburg.

Welcome to the world, Vlottenburg Ward!

Many thanks to Jim Clarke for his help in researching the Vlottenburg Ward. Check out Jim’s new book on South African wines here.

P.S. The wine industry of South Africa is struggling to stay alive during the COVID-19 pandemic. If you are able, you can help out by buying and drinking South African wine!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org