Category Archives: News of The Wine World

Welcome to the World, Virginia Peninsula AVA!

  By admin | August 27, 2021 - 4:08 pm |
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Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

On August 25, 2021, the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States announced a newly approved American Viticultural Area (AVA) for the Commonwealth of Virginia: the Virginia Peninsula AVA. When this new AVA comes into force—on September 24, 2021—the total number of AVAs in the United States will be 258; of these, 7 will be located in Virginia. Note: Virginia also contains portions of two multi-state AVAs: Shenandoah Valley (shared between Virginia and West Virginia), and Appalachian High Country (shared between Virginia, North Carolina, and Tennessee).

The Virginia Peninsula AVA covers a total of 673,059 acres in southeastern Virginia. The entirety of the area is located on the Atlantic Coastal Plain at elevations ranging from sea level to approximately 250 feet. The area is defined by the York and Pamunkey Rivers to the north and the James River to the south. The counties of James City, York, New Kent, and Charles City as well as several independent cities are included within the new AVA’s boundaries.

According to the original petition, the distinguishing features of the Virginia Peninsula AVA include the following:

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Climate: The area experiences a humid/subtropical climate, demonstrated by its long, humid summers and moderate to mild winters. The growing season averages 193 days and typically lasts between April 10 (average date of the last frost) and the end of October/beginning of November (typical harvest dates).

Weather-related challenges in the area include an average of more than 50 days with high temperatures above 90°F during the growing season (and the resulting slow down of photosynthesis) as well as frequent rain approaching the harvest season—as well as the occasional risk of tropical storms.

Geology: The topsoil in this low-elevation coastal plain includes sand, mud, and gravel—much of it formed during times of higher sea levels and/or coastal flooding. The underlying bedrock is marine sedimentary, comprised mainly of sandstone, marine fossils, and clay. These soils are easily fractured and conducive to viticulture.

At the time that the proposal was submitted (in September of 2020), just over 112 acres were planted to commercial vineyards. There are currently at least five commercial vineyards and five bonded wineries operating within the Virginia Peninsula AVA/. These include the Williamsburg Winery, Gauthier Vineyards, New Kent Winery, Saude Creek Vineyards, and Upper Shirley Vineyards.

A wide range of wine types and styles are produced within the Virginia Peninsula AVA. Classic vinifera grapes—including Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Chardonnay, Riesling, and Viognier—are well-represented, as are the (relatively obscure) vinifera grapes Tannat, Petite Verdot, and Petit Manseng. Hybrid varieties—including Norton, Chambourcin, and Vidal Blanc—are grown throughout the region as well.

Welcome to the world, Virginia Peninsula AVA!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

The Rise of Ramato: Dispatch from the delle Venezie DOC

  By admin | August 6, 2021 - 8:54 am | ,
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Logo of the delle Venezie DOC via: https://dellevenezie.it/en/

Logo of the delle Venezie DOC via: https://dellevenezie.it/en/

Dispatch from the delle Venezie DOC! The Disciplinare di Produzione for the delle Venezie DOC has been updated to allow for the production of rosato (rosé) and ramato styles of wine based on the Pinot Grigio grape.

As you may have guessed, there is a bit more to the story!

Winemakers in the northeast of Italy (namely Friuli-Venezia Giulia. Veneto, and the Trentino-Alto Adige) have successfully grown Pinot Grigio—brought to the region via France where it is known as Pinot Gris—for hundreds of years.

The area’s Pinot Grigio is typically produced as a dry, crisp, easy-to-love and fruity white wine with a light yellow(ish) color. This style of wine is enormously popular; so much so that a multi-regional DOC area—the delle Venezie DOC—was created in 2017 to grant these delightful wines a bit of the respect they deserve and allow varietally-labeled Pinot Grigio from Veneto Region, Friuli-Venezia Giulia Region, and the Trentino Province to wear the DOC label. (Sparkling Pinot Grigio and white wine blends—bianco—based around Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, Muller Thurgau, Garganega, Verduzzo, and/or Tocai Friulano are also approved for production under the delle Venezie DOC.)

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Despite the popularity of the fresh-and-fruity style of Pinot Grigio, winemakers in Italy’s northeast have traditionally spun Pinot Grigio into other styles of wine as well. A light pink rosato/rosé is created by allowing the juice (post-crush) to macerate alongside the skins of the grey/pink hued grapes for a short period of time (such as 6 to 10 hour, or perhaps us to 24 hours).  If the maceration on the skins is allowed to continue for a longer period of time—such as two weeks or more—the result can be a richly textured, copper-hued wine known a ramato—from the Italian word rame meaning copper. 

The ramato style of wine production is believed to have originated in Friuli-Venezia Giulia. Pinot Grigio Ramato was quite popular up until the 1960s, when exports of the more widely recognized style of Pinot Grigio from Santa Margherita and other wineries exploded in popularity. However, some producers continued production of rosato and ramato styles of Pinot Grigio, and like so many traditional products in the world of food and wine…these traditional products are increasingly appreciated once again. The delle Venezie Consorzio—in partnership with the Centro di Ricerca Viticoltura ed Enologia (Research Center for Viticulture and Enology) in Conegliano—has supported these efforts via research into 17 different clones of Pinot Grigio in an effort to identify those most appropriate for use in rosato and ramato.

The recent update in the delle Venezie DOC regulations acknowledges the historic significance—and current appreciation of the Pinot Grigio Rosato and Pinot Grigio Ramato produced in Italy’s northeast. Time to raise a glass!

Note: the delle Venezie DOC is also known as Beneških Okolišev (in Slovenian).

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Way to Go, Granada (Now a DO)!

  By admin | July 6, 2021 - 10:26 am |
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Graphic via: http://www.dopvinosdegranada.es

Graphic via: http://www.dopvinosdegranada.es

An updated list of wine appellations—DOPs and IGPs—published by Spain’s Ministry of Agriculture (Ministerio de Agricultura, Pesca y Alimentación) reveals that the Spanish wine region of Granada has been promoted to a Denominación de Origen (DO).

For the number-crunchers among us, this means that (as of June 2021) Spain now has 68 DOs, 2 DOCa’s, 7 VCIGs and 20 Vinos de Pago…for a total of 97 DOPs. See the attached List of DOP and VT Wines from Spain June 2021 for the names and numbers via straight from the source documentation.

Granada was was previously listed as a Vino de Calidad con Indicación Geográfica (VCIG)—which placed it in the top-tier of Spanish Wine Regions, but (theoretically) a step “lower” than the DOs.

According to the Pliego de Condiciones for the Granada DO, the appellation is approved for the production of a range of wine types and styles, including red, white, rosado (rosé), sparkling, and late harvest (de uvas sobremaduradas/over-ripe grapes). Here is a list of allowed grape varieties for the three main styles of wine:

Andalusia autonomous communityRed (Tinto) and Rosé (Rosado): Tempranillo, Garnacha Tinta, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah, Pinot Noir, Monastrell, Romé, and Petit Verdot.

White (Blanco): Vijiriego (Vijariego), Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Moscatel de Alejandría (Muscat of Alexandria), Moscatel de Grano Menudo (Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains), Pedro Ximenez, Palomino, Baladí Verdejo (Cayetana Blanca), and Torrontés.

Sparkling (Espumante): Vijiriego (Vijariego), Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Moscatel de Alejandría (Muscat of Alexandria), Moscatel de Grano Menudo (Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains), and Torrontés.

Map via: http://www.dopvinosdegranada.es

Map via: http://www.dopvinosdegranada.es

The Granada DO covers the entirety of the Province of Granada. Granada is located on the Mediterranean Coast and stretches across the Sierra Nevada Mountain Range to the border with Murcia and Castilla-La Mancha. The area is transversed by several rivers, the main one being the Genil (a tributary of the Guadalquivir). The central/northern portion of the province covers the Altiplano de Granada (Granada High Plains).

A single sub-region—Contraviesa-Alpujarra, located along the Mediterranean Coastline—has been approved. Sparkling wines produced using a minimum of 70% Vijiriego (Vijariego) supplemented by Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are a specialty of the  Granada-Contraviesa-Alpujarra DO.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

 

Welcome to the World, Ulupalakua AVA!

  By admin | July 5, 2021 - 11:11 am | ,
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WaianapanapaHere’s a first: Hawaii gets its very own American Viticultural Area (AVA)!

Despite being located in the tropics (the AVA itself sits at about 20°N latitude) and not being particularly well-known for grape-based viticulture or wine production, here it is: an AVA located in a small corner of the island of Maui—where grapes are grown and sent to a winery just a few miles away to be made into wine.

The Ulupalakua AVA is the first AVA to be approved in the state of Hawaii. When the new AVA comes into force on August 2, 2021, there will be a total of 257 AVAs in the United States.

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

According to the original petition for the AVA—submitted by Mark Beaman, the former winemaker at Maui Wines—the distinguishing features of area include its topography, soils, and climate, as discussed below:

Topography: The area within the Ulupalakua AVA contains a series of four distinct, southwest-facing areas of gently sloping benchlands. In contrast, the area surrounding the new AVA consists of steeper slopes, ravines, and exposed volcanic rock. The elevation of the vineyards in the AVA ranges from 1,560 feet/475 m (in the western portions) to 1,850 feet/564 m (in the east). 

Soils: The Ulupalakua AVA is located on the western slopes of Mount Haleakala—a massive shield volcano that covers more than 75% of the island of Maui. The soils of the area are predominantly composed of volcanic ash and the weathered remains of igneous volcanic rock. About 20% of the soil contains silt, loam, and clay. It is believed that they combination of soils creates an area that is fertile enough to support healthy vines, but not so fertile as to promote excessive foliage.

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Climate: The climate within the Ulupalakua AVA reflects its tropical location and rarely drops below 50°F/10°C or goes above 85°F/29°C. The region receives quite a bit of rain—an average of 30.7 inches of rainfall a year. However, it is noted that less than two inches per month tend to fall in July and August. While humidity can certainly be seen as an issue, this period of low summer rainfall reduces the risk of mildew and rot in the days leading up to the harvest, and the mild summertime temperatures protect again sunburn and heat stress.

It is believed that viticulture began in the area in the early 1800s when an immigrant from Portugal—Don Francisco de Paula Marin—imported vines into the region and made small amounts of wine. These days, the total area within the Ulupalakua AVA comprises 70 acres; of these, 16 acres are currently under vine. Leading grape varieties include Gewurztraminer, Chenin Blanc, Viognier, Grenache, Malbec, and Syrah. There is currently one commercial vineyard— Ulupalakua Vineyards owned by Maui Wine LLC—in the region. There are no bonded wineries within the AVA, but grapes are often sent to Maui Winery (located about just a few miles away) for processing.

The name “Ulupalakua” is derived from the native language of Hawaii and may be loosely translated as “breadfruit ripened on the back.” The folklore of the area tells of how the island’s king would request that his favorite fruit—breadfruit—be brought to his home on the west coast of Maui. Harvesters would pick the unripe fruit on the island’s eastern side and carry it to the king’s house on the other side of the island. The fruit would ripen on the journey and would be totally ripe by the time they reached (the area now known as) Ulupalakua.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

New Rules (in the New Year) for Cava!

  By admin | June 16, 2021 - 10:33 am |
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A typical New Year's Eve in Madrid ©Semmickphoto/123RF.COM

A typical New Year’s Eve in Madrid ©Semmickphoto/123RF.COM

When the clock strikes midnight on December 31 and we roll over into the new year of 2022, the wines of Cava will begin a new era—as a set of updates and revisions to the Cava regulations come into force.

These updates—centered on specificity in geographic indications as well as new aging tiers—have been in the works for years; and were first approved by the Consejo Regulador of the Cava DO (Denominación de Origen) back in 2019. Along with their publication in Spain’s Boletín Oficial del Estado (BOE/Official Gazette of Spain) on June 15, 2021, they are set to come into force as of January 1, 2022.

A new tier of aged wines—tied to some specific qualitative guidelines has been introduced. This tier includes the following designations:

  • Cava de Guarda, requiring at least nine months of again on the lees and that the wine be traceable from the vineyard to the bottle
  • Cava de Guarda Superior, requiring at least 18 months on the lees as well as the following standards:
    • The vines must be at least 10 years old
    • The grapes must be grown organically (granted with a five-year period allowed for transition)
    • Maximum yield: 10,000 kg/ha
    • The wine must be traceable from the vineyard to the bottle
    • It must be vintage-dated

The regulations for Cava Reserva also have been changed; Cava Reserva will now need a minimum of 18 months aging on the lees (up from the previous minimum of 15 months).

The regulations for Cava Gran Reserva (requiring a minimum 30 months of aging on the lees) and Cava de Paraje Calificado (produced using grapes grown in a recognized vineyard and aged on the less for a minimum of 36 months) have not changed.

Map via the CAVA DO: www.cava.wine/en

Map via the CAVA DO: www.cava.wine/en

In addition, these new changes bring some long-awaited specificity to the geographical definition of Cava. This is exciting because it represents the first time that Cava will be allowed to list a specific place-of-origin (aside from just the far-flung “Cava” designation) on the label. These new geographical indications include four basic zones:  Comtats de Barcelona, Valle de Ebro (Ebro Valley), Viñedos de Almendralejo, and Levante.

Here is a bit of detail about each of these zones:

  • Comtats de Barcelona: This zone covers wine produced in Catalonia, representing as much as 95% of the total production of Cava. The area contains five (very terroir-specific) sub-zones: Valls d’Anoia-Foix, Serra de Mar, Conca del Gaia, Serra de Prades and Pla de Ponent.
  • Valle de Ebro (Ebro Valley): This zone—the northernmost of the Cava DO—is tucked between several mountain ranges and lies alongside the Ebro River (overlapping a portion of the Rioja DOCa). There are two sub-zones: Alto Ebro and Valle del Cierzo.
  • Viñedos de Almendralejo: This small area follows the borders of Almendralejo, a town in the Extremadura region. This area is located quite a way inland—close to the Portuguese border—and represents the area furthest southwest in the Cava D.O.
  • Levante: This area—located in eastern Spain on a high plateau in the province of Valencia—follows the borders of the town of Requena. (Note: the name Levante is considered temporary, so we may have another update soon!)

The website of the Consejo Regulador de Cava has some excellent, sub-zone-specific maps.

The Cava DO has also announced that more changes are in the works—specifically, that all top-tier Cava (including Cava Reserva, Cava Gran Reserva and Cava de Paraje Calificado) will be 100% organic by 2025. We will keep an eye on that!

Note: As with all such updates, this change will need to wind its way through EU approval; however, as the Spanish government has granted their approval, the changes will be in force (as scheduled) on January 1, 2022. If the EU fails to approve the amendment, the regulation will be rescinded (although this is quite unlikely to happen).

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

 

 

Dispatch from Amboise (and the Touraine AOC)

  By admin | June 6, 2021 - 10:17 am | ,
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Château d'Amboise

Château d’Amboise

Amboise is a tiny French town situated on the banks of Loire River (about 17 miles/27 km east of Tours) and just a short drive (11 miles/18 km) away from the awe-inspiring Château de Chenonceau.

Despite its small stature, Amboise has a lot going for it. For one, it is home to the Château du Clos Lucé, originally built by the Hugues d’Amboise (nobles of the House of Amboise) in 1471. The Château du Clos Lucé has had several famous occupants, including Leonardo da Vinci who resided in the palace for the last few years of his life. Upon his death in 1519, the great artist was laid to rest in the nearby Chapel of St Florentin. When the Chapel of St. Florentin was razed at the end of the 18th century, Leonardo’s tomb was moved to the grounds of the Château d’Amboise. (At least that is what most people believe; there are some skeptics.)

Grounds of the Château de Chanteloup

Grounds of the Château de Chanteloup

Amboise is also home to what might be the only pagoda ever built on the banks of the Loire—the pagoda of the Château de Chanteloup—and the Parc des Mini-Chateaux—a theme park where you can walk among 40 miniature renditions of the famous castles, gardens, and villas of the Loire.

Amboise is also known for its wine; much of which is bottled under the Touraine-Amboise appellation. Amboise is currently one of the five sub-zones/geographic indications that are allowed to append their name to the Touraine AOC designation—as long as the mandated, specific standards are followed. There are rumors afloat that Amboise will (someday soon) apply for a separate AOC, however, this has not yet approached the national level.

There have, nevertheless, been some recent changes to the rules and regulations concerning the wines of the Touraine-Amboise AOC. These include revisions to the allowed grape varieties, viticultural practices, and character of the finished wine. The most substantive of these changes concern the allowed grape varieties, as follows:

  • Varietal composition of red wines: Must be 100% Côt. They take Côt seriously in Amboise and consider it a specific (and historical) local variation of Malbec. Though previously allowed, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Gamay are no longer permitted to be used in the red wines of the Touraine-Amboise AOC.
  • Varietal composition of rosé wines: May be produced using any proportion of Côt and/or Gamay. Though previously allowed, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc are no longer permitted to be used in the rosé wines of the Touraine-Amboise AOC.
Map of the Touraine AOC (showing the Amboise subzone) via the INAO

Map of the Touraine AOC (showing the Amboise subzone) via the INAO

Touraine-Amboise AOC white wines are required to be 100% Chenin Blanc (this standard has not changed).

Note: For the serious wine students in our audience—the other four subzones of the Touraine AOC are as follows: Mesland, Azay-le-Rideau, Oisly, and Chenonceaux.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Dispatch from Bardolino

  By admin | May 20, 2021 - 12:47 pm | ,
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Map via: https://consorziobardolino.it/

Map via: https://consorziobardolino.it/

Heads up, wine students of the world! In the April 12, 2021 edition of the Gazzetta Ufficiale della Repubblica Italiana (Official Journal of Italy), it was announced that there have been a few changes made in the rules and regulations of the Bardolino DOC. Bardolino—located on the banks of Lake Garde in Italy’s Veneto—is well-known for its lively red and rosé (chiaretto) wines based on the Corvina grape variety.

The main update involves three new subzones of the Bardolino appellation. These new regions—La Rocca, Montebaldo, and Sommacampagna—have been approved for use upon the release of the region’s 2018 vintage. The previously existing Bardolino Classico subzone will remain in place and is unaffected by the changes.

According to the website of the Consorzio di Tutela Chiaretto e del Bardolino, the newly approved subzones represent a historical view of region. These areas have been recognized since the 19th century, when they were documented by a local scholar known as Giovanni Battista Perez. These subzones were not, however, written into the original specification of the Bardolino DOC (first established in 1968).

Here is some information about each of the new subzones:

Bardolino-La Rocca takes up the entirety of the area adjacent to Lake Garda, and represents the ancient district of Bardolino, which has ties to the Roman Empire and was mentioned in the 12th century as a free commune. In the 1200s, the area was expanded and fortified under the “protection” of the Scaligeri of Verona; after the fall of the Scaligeri the area become part of the Republic of Venice.

Map indicating the (previously existing) Bardolino Classico subregion

Map indicating the (previously existing) Bardolino Classico subregion

Bardolino-Montebaldo encompasses the area of the eastern foothills of Monte Baldo Mountain Range. The Monte Baldo Range—part of the larger Garda Mountains—is basically a mid-level ridge running parallel to (and east of) to Lake Garda for about 25 miles (40 km).  The area around the Monte Baldo Mountains is often called “the Garden of Europe” due to the incredible plant biodiversity (and copious beautiful wildflowers) of the area.

Bardolino-Sommacampagna accounts for the rolling hills in the southern reaches of the district.  The area takes its name from the commune of Sommacampagna, located in the southeast of the zone.

Note: As with all such updates, this change will need to wind its way through EU approval; however, as the Italian government has granted their approval, we should begin to see the new subzones appear on wine labels with the release of the wines of the 2018 vintage.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

On the Riesling Radar: New Place-Specific Appellations in Store for Germany

  By admin | April 21, 2021 - 1:00 pm | ,
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Graphic via https://www.germanwines.de/

Graphic via https://www.germanwines.de/

Ask any wine student, and they will be eager to tell you: German wines are confusing. When you consider the combination of gothic-style script on labels, overlapping levels of the Prädikat, and a seemingly never-ending list of places-of-origin (only some of which are government-approved and therefore considered official)—most wine educators would agree.

Hang on to your hats, wine lovers, because the categorization and classification of German wines is about to change, and it is yet to be seen whether these changes will make the study of German wines easier, or even more (shall we say) complex.

Before we dive in, take heart: these changes are still in the works. While producers can implement the changes immediately, they are not required to do so until the 2025 vintage—and there is still quite a bit of regulatory work to be done. Nevertheless, here is what has been announced so far:

The hierarchy (and label terminology) for Prädikatswein—based on ripeness levels (must concentration) at harvest—will remain unchanged.

A new system (hierarchy)—based on geography and the philosophy of the smaller the area, the higher the quality—will come into force. This geography-based set of classifications will apply to PDO (protected designation of origin) wines only—both still and sparkling—and may be used for both Qualitätswein and Prädikatswein.

This geography-based hierarchy is not entirely new; current students of wine will recall the four levels of German wine place-of-origin categories—Anbaugebiete (area), Bereiche (region), Grosslagen (village), Einzellagen (vineyard)—currently in use. This new system changes the terminology up a bit, adds a few levels of specificity, AND allows for the regulation of grape varieties and wine styles at the higher levels. (Specific information on what these regulations will be is to-be-determined and is expected to be released over the next few months/years.)

Here is the new categorization of German wine place-of-origin terms, in order from largest (and—theoretically, less specific in qualifications and lowest in quality) to smallest (and—theoretically, with the most specific qualification and highest in quality).

  • Anbaugebiet (area): This refers to Germany’s 13 quality wine regions (Anbaugebiete) and has not changed. Grapes may be grown in any part of the area, and the wine will carry the name of the area—such as Mosel, Rheinhessen, or Pflaz—on the label.
  • Region: Each Anbaugebiet will be broken down in several specified areas (such as those previously referred to as Bereiche or Grosslagen). These regions will span several political areas such as communes or districts.
  • Ortsweine (village): Named for a specific village; must reflect the typical grape varieties and wine style of the village. These wines must be produced from grapes harvested at least the Kabinett-level of ripeness and may not be sold before December 15 of the harvest year.
  • Einzellage (vineyard): These wines must be produced in accordance with the grape varieties and wine styles typical of the vineyard. In addition, all wines at this level of the hierarchy (and above) must be made from grapes that are harvested at the ripeness/must concentration threshold as defined for the area’s Kabinett level grapes (or higher). The name of the Einzellage (vineyard) must appear on the wine label alongside the name of the region. These wines may not be sold before March 1 of the year following the harvest.
  • Erstes Gewächs: This designation is made for a sub-plot of a vineyard and comes with a long list of qualifications, which may include specific grape varieties, methods of production, sensory characteristics, and limits on yield. This category is reserved for dry wines made from a single grape variety only. The quality level may be thought of as the “second-highest ranking” in the area, such as is reserved for Burgundy’s Premier Cru vineyards.  These wines must be vintage-dated and may not be sold before March 1 of the year following the harvest.
  • Grosses Gewächs: This designation may be considered the highest level in the category (similar to the Grand Cru vineyards of Burgundy). The qualifications are also steep—in addition to regulations on grape varieties, production methods, and sensory characteristics—the wine must be dry; and it must be produced from a single vineyard, a single grape variety, and a single vintage year. At this level, white may be sold after September 1st of the year following harvest, and red wines may not be sold until June 1st of the second year after harvest.
    • Smaller plots of land known as Gewannen (singular: Gewann) may also be defined within the Erstes Gewächs or the Grosses Gewächs.

Side note: according to the press release linked below, “Associations that already use the terms Grosses Gewächs and Erstes Gewächs may continue to use them if they meet certain minimum requirements from the wine ordinance, for example with regard to grape varieties, yields, harvest regulations or the taste profile.”

Reference/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

 

 

Dispatch from the Toro DO

  By admin | April 12, 2021 - 4:17 pm |
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Photo of the Toro Vineyards vis dotoro.com

Photo of the Toro Vineyards via dotoro.com

The Toro DO, located on Spain’s Duero River just west of Rueda, has been making wine since pre-Roman times. It is even said that the rich, red wines of the area were a favorite of King Alfonso IX of León back in the 13th century.

Most of the wine produced in the Toro DO is based on the Tinta del Toro grape variety—considered to be a local clone of Tempranillo. This local variant has thicker skins and deeper color than the Tempranillo grapes grown in the neighboring regions of Ribera del Duero and Rioja. These robust grapes help are crafted into the rich, bold, and tannic red wines of the Toro DO. Perhaps this is why the region goes by the name Toro—the bull. 

Until recently, the red wines of the Toro DO were required to contain a minimum of 75% Tinta del Toro. While the remaining 25% was allowed to contain Garnacha, most wines were close to 100% Tinta del Toro.

However as of April 7, 2021—when the revisions were approved and published in the Official Journal of the EU—there have been a few changes made to the Pliego de Condiciones for the Toro DO, and we may soon start seeing some different styles of wine coming from Toro. These recent updates include the following:

Photo via dotoro.com

Photo via dotoro.com

Grape varieties allowed for use in the red wines of the Toro DO: The new regulations allow for the red wines of the area to be produced using a minimum of 75% Tinta del Toro or a minimum of 85% Garnacha Tinta. In either case, the remainder must contain Tinta del Toro and/or Garnacha Tinta—the only two red grapes allowed. The red wines of the Toro DO are known for being medium to full-bodied with gritty tannins and cherry to ruby red (for young wines) or cherry red to terracotta in color (for barrel-aged wines). The aromas are typically bold, redolent of red fruit (strawberry, raspberry), black fruit (blackberry, black cherry, plum), flowers (violet, dried roses), black pepper, cocoa, and vanilla.

Grape varieties allowed for use in the white wines of the Toro DO: White wines comprise a tiny percentage of the production of the Toro DO, however, the standards for Toro Blanco have been updated as well. The changes involve the approval of two new grape varieties: Albillo Real and Moscatel de Grano Menudo (Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains). These two new grape varieties can be used in any combination, alongside the two pre-existing white grapes of the appellation: Malvasía Castellana (also known as Cigüente or Doña Blanca in this area) and Verdejo. The white wines of the Toro DO are known for their aromas of fruit (peach, pear, apricot, green apple), flowers, and a green grass/herbal quality. If barrel aged, the wines may show some oxidation and aromas of wood, smoke, or hazelnut.

Map of the Toro DO and surrounding appellatons

Map of the Toro DO and surrounding appellatons

Grape varieties allowed for use in the rosé wines of the Toro DO: Toro rosato may now be produced using any combination of the area’s authorized grapes (red and/or white): Tinta del Toro, Garnacha Tinta, Albillo Real, Moscatel de Grano Menudo, Malvasía Castellana, and/or Verdejo. The rosé wines of the Toro DO are expected to be “pale to salmon pink in color” with “fresh red and/or black fruit aromas.”

Several other updates were also approved, many of them involving viticultural and winemaking practices for the Toro DO. These include an increase in allowed yield for Tinta de Toro and a removal of the previous limitation on the maximum allowed alcohol by volume (formerly 15 abv%). For more details on these changes, see the publication in the Official Journal of the EU dated April 7, 2021 (attached below).

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

The Triumph of Trepat

  By admin | April 8, 2021 - 9:14 am |
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14989542 - trepat black grape, is a native variety of the conca de barbera. catalonia

Trepat is a relatively unknown red grape variety. At last count, there were just shy of 1,000 hectares (2,400 acres) planted in the world. Most—if not all—of these plantings are in Spain, mainly in Catalonia; although there are a few plantings in Valencia and Murcia (where the grape goes by the synonym Bonicaire).

If Trepat has any claim to fame at all, it is due to its use in Cava, one of the leading sparkling wines of Spain. If you’ve been a student of wine for longer than a year, you were most likely taught that Trepat was allowed for use in Cava, but only in rosé. This certainly was true from 1998 until the middle of 2020. However, in June of that year (just in time for the update to be included in the 2021 edition of the Certified Specialist of Wine Study Guide), the Pliego de Condiciones for the Cava DO was updated and the limitation on the use of Trepat was repealed.

Thus, it seems we are witnessing the Triumph of Trepat.  The reason for the change in Cava’s handling of Trepat—as stated in the Official Journal of the EU—is as follows: “In 1998, commercial development of rosé Cava began and the use of the Trepat variety was authorized for making rosé Cava. At present, with demand for rosé wines more than covered, and taking into account the good qualitative assessment of wines made from the Trepat variety, we consider that making white Cava (blanc de noirs) from the Trepat variety is an option of product diversification that does not take away from the quality of the Cava. Therefore, we decided to authorize this proposal so that white Cava may also be obtained from this variety.”

Trepat is a robust grape variety that tends to produce large, compact bunches of thick-skinned grapes. Its lack of popularity (in terms of plantings) may be due to its tendency to early budding and late ripening, making the vines somewhat susceptible to spring frost and harvest time rains.

Red wines produced from Trepat are produced in Catalonia’s Conca de Barberà and Costers de Costers del Segre DOs tend to be pale in color and feature aromas and flavors of red fruit (strawberry, raspberry, red cherry) and sweet spices (cinnamon). A touch of citrus/orange peel bitterness often accompanies the finish.

Cava Pere Mata TrepatTrepat seems to make its best appearances in rosé, both sparkling and still. Several leading Cava producers use the grape in their pink bubbly as well as Trepat rosé (still/non-sparling). One great example is Cava Portell/Vinicola de Sarral, who produces a Trepat-based Portell Rosat Brut Cava as well as a 100% Trepat rosé bottled under Conca de Barberà DO. The Conca de Barberà rosé is described as having aromas of peaches and strawberries along with a crisp, juicy acidity.

Another nice example is the 100% Trepat Cava Rosat produced by Pere Mata; this wine is described as having aromas of “raspberries, cranberries, and hibiscus flowers.” The upstarts of the Spanish sparkling wine world—producers of Corpinnat—are also proponents of Trepat: see Castellroig’s Reserva Brut Rosat for a fascinating example.

Keep an eye out for Trepat…and taste the triumph! 

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org