Category Archives: News of The Wine World

Photo via wines of British Columbia: http://winebc.com/

Shuswap, Lillooet, Thompson Valley, and Kootenays…what do these four things have in common?

They are newly-approved geographical indications (GIs) for quality wine in British Columbia (Canada)!  These four areas are all located just north of Washington State,  inland from British Columbia’s coastal wine-producing regions—Vancouver Island, the Gulf Islands, and Fraser Valley—and somewhat to the north and east of the well-established Okanagan Valley and Similkameen Valley GIs.

Here’s a quick look at these four new regions:

Shuswap: Located in and around the shores of Shuswap Lake, the Shuswap GI is located just to the north of the Okanagan Valley in the mountains of the Coast Range (on the map, it’s located to the west of the city of Kamloops). At 50°59´N latitude, it is among the northern-most fine wine producing regions in the world.  This area has been producing wine since the late 1990s, focusing on cool-climate varietals. There are currently about 85 acres of commercial vineyards and ten licensed wineries in the area, including Larch Hills Winery, Baccarta Ridge Winery, Ovino Winery, and the irresistibly-named Edge of the Earth Vineyards. The name Shuswap is derived from the Shuswap (Secwepemc) First Nations people.

Map via Wines of British Columbia: http://winebc.com/

Lillooet: The Lillooet GI is located to the north of both the Fraser Valley and the Okanagan Valley, at just above 50°N in latitude. Despite this fact, however, the area can experience very warm days during the summer—as a matter of fact, this area sometimes clocks some of Canada’s highest temperatures during the summer days. The area is also dry, some years receiving as little as 13 inches (33 m) of rain. This is all due to the rain shadow and impressive gorges of the Coast Mountain Range. However, the high temperatures of the summer days drop steeply down at night, making this area slightly cooler overall than surrounding regions—considered the overall average temperature (hot days + cool nights). Commercial viticulture arrived in Lillooet in 2004, and there are currently 54 acres of vines, as well as one winery, Fort Berens Estate Winery in the area. The name is derived from the St’at’imc First Nations People, also known as the Lillooet Nation.

Thompson Valley: The Thompson Valley GI is located near the town of Kamloops—in and around the spot where the North Thompson River flows into the South Thompson River. Similar to the climate of Lillooet, the area is affected by the rain shadow of the Coast Mountains, and experiences some hot temperatures during the summer (accompanied by a nice diurnal swing). The area’s first commercial winery, Harper’s Trail Estate Winery, opened in 2012. The area boasts over 95 acres of vineyards and a handful of wineries—including Sagewood Winery and Privato Winery. The Thompson River and the Thompson Valley are named for David Thompson, an explorer and surveyor who mapped the entire length of the Columbia River in the early 1800s.

Photo via Wines of British Columbia: http://winebc.com/

Kootenays: The Kootenays area, located along the southern border of British Columbia just to the east of the Okanagan Valley, is sometimes referred to as the “first shores” due to the fact that, according to geologists, the area was the original west coast of North America. The region has long been planted with apple orchards and is known for its many cider, cyser, and mead producers. Grapes have also been planted here, among the rivers, lakes, and waterfalls, since 1995. The Kootenays GI currently has just over 68 acres planted to vines and a handful of wineries, including Ballie-Grohman Estate Winery, Wynnwood Cellars, and Skimmerhorn Winery.   The area is named for the Kootenay River (and Kootenay Mountain), which are themselves named for the Kutenai First Nations people.

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For those of you studying for advanced wine certifications, it might be noted that that British Columba now has a total of 12 GIs (10 GIs and two sub-GIs).   The entire list (as of October 1, 2018) is as follows:

• British Columbia GI
• Fraser Valley GI
• Gulf Islands GI
• Kootenays GI
• Lillooet GI
• Okanagan Valley GI (contains two sub-appellations: Golden Mile Bench GI and Okanagan Falls GI)
• Shuswap GI
• Similkameen Valley GI
• Thomson Valley GI
• Vancouver Island GI

*Keep those flashcards handy, however. There are two more sub-GIs in the pipeline: Skaha Bench and Naramata Bench (both of which are pending sub-GIs of the Okanagan Valley).

References/for more information:

• Wines of British Columbia: http://winebc.com/
• BC Wine Authority: http://www.bcvqa.ca/
• British Columbia – Wines of Marked Quality Regulation – July 27, 2018
• Media Kit Wines of British Columbia

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles – SWE’s Director of Education and Certification –  jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

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Enquiring wine students most likely know that Cava—Spain’s well-known and widely-popular traditional method sparkling wines—can be produced in various parts of Spain. While the majority of Cava DO is produced in Catalonia, in reality the geographical indication for Cava spreads across eight regions of Spain, including La Rioja (and overlapping portions of the Rioja DOCa). While somewhat of a rarity, there are about five wineries that produce Cava within the confines of the Rioja DOCa. They have, in the past, been bottled under the Cava DO (and may continue to be).

However….as of 2019, consumers will be able to drink sparkling wines produced under the Rioja DOCa. That’s right…sparkling Rioja—known as Vino Espumoso de Calidad de Rioja DOCa—is now a thing. This is a big change in the rules and regulations concerning the wines of the Rioja DOCa; part of a wave of modernization and re-organization of the Rioja DOCa that has been brewing for the last few years. You may recall that last year (in 2017), single-village designations and single-vineyard designations were approved for wines produced under the Rioja DOCa.

Espumoso de Calidad de Rioja DOCa may be produced in white (blanco) and rosé (rosado/rosat) styles, and must be produced using the traditional method of sparkling wine production with the second fermentation occurring in the bottle. Any of the grape varieties approved for use in the still wines of the Rioja DOCa may be used in the production of these sparkling wines. The approved grapes include the following white varieties: Viura, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Verdejo, Malvasía, Garnacha Blanca, Tempranillo Blanca, Maturana Blanca, and Turruntés—and these red varieties: Tempranillo, Garnacha Tinta, Mazuelo, Graciano, and Maturana Tinta.

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Further rules and regulations concerning Vino Espumoso de Calidad de Rioja DOCa include the following:

• The finished wines must contain between 11% and 13% alcohol by volume.
• All wines using the Espumoso de Calidad de Rioja DOCa must be sur lie aged (in the bottle, following the second fermentation) for a minimum of 15 months.
• Those wines labeled as “reserva” must be sur lie aged in the bottle for a minimum of 24 months
• Those wines labeled as “gran reserva” must be sur lie aged in the bottle for a minimum of 36 months
• These wines may only have a limited amount of sugar, and may only be produced in the following styles: Brut (less than 12 g/L of residual sugar), Extra Brut (less than 6 g/L of residual sugar), and Brut Nature (less than 3 g/L of sugar, no dosage allowed).
• Sparkling rosés must contain a minimum of 25% red grapes
• The term “Vino Espumoso Gran Añada” may be used for vintage wines with the vintage date stated on the label.

I am looking forward to trying a sparkling wine from the Rioja DOCa and will be on the lookout for one beginning in 2019. Let us know if you find one!

References/for more information:

• http://especiales.lomejordelvinoderioja.com/2017/espumosos-rioja.php
• https://www.thedrinksbusiness.com/2018/04/everything-you-need-to-know-about-riojas-new-rules/
• https://www.riojawine.com/es-es/consejo-regulador-doca-rioja/
• Pliego de Condiciones Rioja DOCa 2018

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles – SWE’s Director of Education and Certification –  jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

https://www.vdp.de/en/home/

Sekt gets Serious!

Last month (July 2018), the Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter (Association of German Prädikat Wine Estates, or VDP) has established a set of classifications—along with some strict regulations—regarding Sekt (sparkling wines) produced by its member estates.

The four levels of Sekt Classification mirror the already-established levels of the VDP pyramid for still wine and include (in increasing order of quality) VDP Gutswein, VDP Ortswein, VDP Erste Lage, and VDP Grosse Lage. All VDP Sekt must be harvested by hand, pressed via whole cluster pressing, and made using the traditional method (second fermentation in the bottle) of sparkling wine production. Additional regulations include the following:

• VDP Sekt Gutswein: Grapes must stem from Gutswein-designated estate vineyards, and the wine must be aged on the lees for a minimum of 15 months.
• VDP Sekt Ortswein: Grapes must stem from Ortswein-designated estate vineyards, and the wine must be aged on the lees for a minimum of 15 months.
• VDP Sekt Erste Lage: Grapes must stem from Erste Lage-designated estate vineyards, and the wine must be aged on the lees for a minimum of 36 months.
• VDP Sekt Grosse Lage: Grapes must stem from Grosse Lage-designated estate vineyards, and the wine must be aged on the lees for a minimum of 36 months.

According to the website of the VDP, the focus of this new quality strategy is “good sekt from the beginning”. Further details regarding the qualifications for each level of the VDP Sekt classifications may be found in the official documentation of the VDP Sekt Statute (see below).

References/for more information:

• https://www.vdp.de/en/news/details/artikel/vdppraedikatsweingueter-beschliessen-eigene-sektklassifikation-auf-grundlage-der-vdpherkunftspyramide/
• VDP Sekt Statute – English

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

The town of St. Chinian (Hérault Department)

As of July 5, 2018, the National Committee for Protected Geographical Indications of the Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité (INAO) approved a new PGI for France:  Terres du Midi PGI. The new PGI is approved for still, blended wines—in red, white, and rosé—produced in the Gard, Hérault, Aude and Pyrénées-Orientales departments. The new PGI is approved for use as of the 2018 vintage.

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With the approval of the Terres du Midi PGI, there are now a total of 75 wine-related PGIs in France. There are no plans, at this time, to eliminate any of the overlapping or the departmental IGPs of the area, which is centered on the Languedoc & Roussillon areas of France.

References/for further information:

•  https://www.inao.gouv.fr/Nos-actualites/Reconnaissance-de-l-IGP-Terres-du-Midi
• IGP Terres du Midi – Communiqué de presse
• Cahier des Charges – IGP Terres du Midi
• Click here for a map of the IGP Terres du Midi, via the Bottlair blog

Map via the TTB website, as found in the original petition, submitted on behalf of the Vineyard and Winery Operators of the Dahlonega Region of Northern Georgia (April 2015).

Welcome to the world, Dahlonega Plateau AVA! As of June 29, 2018 the TTB has approved the Dahlonega Plateau AVA, located in Lumpkin and White Counties in the state of Georgia. The new AVA will be effective as of July 30, 2018—and this brings the total number of AVAs in the US to 242.

The petition for the Dahlonega Plateau AVA was originally submitted in April, 2015 on behalf of the Vineyard and Winery Operators of Northern Georgia. The namesake Dahlonega Plateau is a long, narrow plateau located in the northern foothills of the Georgia Piedmont. (The Piedmont [in the eastern United States] is an elevated section of land stretching from New Jersey to central Alabama, tucked between the Atlantic Coastal Plain and the Appalachian and Blue Ridge Mountains).

Georgia’ Dahlonega Plateau covers most of Lumpkin, Dawson, White, Pickens, and Cherokee Counties; however, the AVA only covers the northeast section of the plateau. The Dahlonega Plateau AVA is about 133 square miles in size, and is includes (at last count) 7 wineries and 8 commercial vineyards totally just over 110 acres of planted vines. Area wineries include Cavender Creek Vineyards, Three Sisters Vineyards and Winery, Wolf Mountain Vineyards and Winery, and Accent Cellars (they also make cider!).

Map of the US Piedmont via USGS

According to the petition, the distinguishing features of the proposed Dahlonega Plateau AVA include the topography, described as gently rolling hilltops separated by wide valleys are an average elevation of 1,554 feet (474 m) above sea level. This warm and sunshine-drenched area is both well-suited for viticulture and distinct from the surrounding, more heavily wooded (and shaded) area.

The climate also differentiates the region within the AVA, as the area atop the Dahlonega Plateau is warmer than the area to its west and south, as the  cool air from the higher elevations sinks down and settles in the area below, creating a risk of frost damage in the lower elevations. The majority of the area within the AVA has a growing season between 190 and 200 days and is classified in the intermediate range of the Winkler scale as Zone 3 and 4. Annual rainfall is approximately 62 inches per year, including 17 inches during winter.

During the open comment phase of the application process, the TTB received just one comment. The commenter noted that the Dahlonega Plateau is a ‘‘gorgeous mountain region’’ that has ‘‘unique wine-growing characteristics’’ that qualify it as an AVA. Welcome to the world, Dahlonega AVA!

References/for more information:

• The Federal Registry for Friday June 29, 2018 announcing the establishment of the Dahlonega Plateau AVA: https://www.gpo.gov/fdsys/pkg/FR-2018-06-29/pdf/2018-14035.pdf
• https://cavendercreekvineyards.com/
• Dahlonega Plateau AVA Petition
• http://www.threesistersvineyards.com/
• http://www.wolfmountainvineyards.com/
• http://www.accentcellars.com/wine-list
• The US Piedmont via Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piedmont_(United_States)

http://www.astidocg.it/en/prodotto-gallery/

Every wine lover—whether we admit it or not—has enjoyed a glass of Asti Spumante (which the wine cognoscenti will refer to simply as “Asti”) or Moscato d’Asti with lunch, brunch, or on New Year’s Eve.

It is predictable and quite correct—in most cases—to dismiss these sweet wines as “easy to love,” “great for beginners,” or “just a simple little quaff.” However, if we dig into the disciplinare of the Asti DOCG, we see that a range of wines are allowed to be produced under the designation—including wines from three sub-zones, late harvest wines, and bottle-fermented wines—all of which have probably never been referred to as “simple.” Add to these complications the fact that the rules of the DOCG were recently changed to allow the production of dry wines under the Asti DOCG—and we’ll see that perhaps we need to change our minds about Asti.

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For starters in breaking down the wines of Asti, we can determine that all of the wines produced under the Asti DOCG (located in Piedmont, Italy) are sparkling or slightly so, and are, in all cases, produced using 100% Moscato Bianco (more commonly known [outside of Italy] as Muscat blanc à Petits Grains). That’s pretty must where the similarities end. The differences are discussed below, after a short discussion on sweetness.

How Sweet it is: There is no simple statement of required levels of sweetness for the various versions of Asti. The appellation’s disciplinare does, however, state a required level of alcolometrico volumico potenziale—potential alcohol volume (the abv that would be achieved if all of the fermentable sugar was allowed to convert to alcohol)—in other words, a required ripeness at harvest for each style of wine. In addition, there is a required level of alcolometrico volumico effettivo—the actual alcohol by volume stated for each wine. By doing a bit of math, we can determine the difference between each wine’s required potential alcohol and required actual alcohol —which (using more math) will reveal the approximate amount of sugar allowed or required to be in the finished wine. For the purposes of this discussion, we’ll use the following formula: Brix X 0.55 = Potential Alcohol (or, Potential Alcohol/.55 = Brix).  Note: This calculation is at best a generality, but it is a good-enough starting point for a discussion on the character of these wines.

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Asti DOCG: Asti DOCG is sometimes referred to as Asti Spumante; both terms are acceptable for use under the DOCG. Asti/Asti Spumante DOCG is produced via second fermentation in pressurized tanks (autoclaves) using the production method commonly referred to as the Charmat Method—known in Piedmont as the Metodo Marinotti.  By EU definition, spumante means “sparkling” and as such, the minimum pressure of the dissolved bubbles of Asti is 3 atm. For these wines, the required minimum potential alcohol is 11.5%. Until recently, the required actual abv was 6.0% to 9.5%; a bit of math tells us that the (previsouly) required minimum residual sugar was around 3.6% (making these wines demi-sec or dolce [semi-sweet to sweet]). However…

New! Asti Secco: In August of 2017, the regulations were revised, and the maximum required actual alcohol (formerly 9.5%) was deleted. This means that Asti DOCG may now be produced in a dry style.  The only change in the actual rules appears to be the deletion of the 9.5% maximum actual abv requirement, but the Asti DOCG Consortium is encouraging the use of the term “secco” for wines with a 11% minimum abv (actual), and the use of the term “dolce” for the traditional, sweet wines. (The revision in the disciplinare only applies to Asti/Asti Spumante DOCG and does not affect the wines described below.)

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Asti Metodo Classico DOCG: These wines, which may also be referred to as Asti Spumante Metodo Classico DOCG, are required to be produced using the Traditional (bottle-fermented) Method of sparkling wine production and must be aged on the lees for a minimum of nine months. The required minimum sweetness (based on a required potential minimum alcohol of 12% and a required actual alcohol of 6% to 8%) is approximately 7% residual sugar and are therefore all of these wines are sweet (dolce).

Moscato d’Asti DOCG: This is the beloved, sweet sipper that has recently become so popular (although experienced wine lovers see this as a prime example of “everything old is new again” popularity). Moscato d’Asti is made using the “partial fermentation” method of sparkling wine production (also—somewhat obviously—also known as the “Asti method”). This means these wines are made by one pressurized fermentation (only) that is interrupted while there is just a bit of bubble (a maximum of 2 atm) built up in addition to a good deal of sweetness still left in the wine.  The numbers of 11% minimum potential alcohol and 4.5% to 6.5% acquired alcohol means that these wines are always sweet with at least 8% residual sugar (to use generalized terms).

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Moscato d’Asti Vendemmia Tardiva DOCG: This late-harvest version of Moscato d’Asti requires a minimum potential alcohol of 14% and a acquired alcohol of 11%, meaning these wines will have at least (approximately) 5% residual sugar. This wine is not allowed to be chaptalized and must be aged for at least one year from the date of harvest.

Sub-regions: As for the sub-regions of the Asti DOCG, they are only approved for a few of the wines and (of course) they have a few of their own requirements:

• Canelli: This sub-zone (located in the center section of the DOCG) is only approved for Moscato d’Asti, and the wines using this designation must have a potential alcohol of 12% abv (slightly higher than the general requirement of 11%).
• Santa Vittoira d’Alba: This sub-zone (located to the west of the central DOCG zone) is approved for Moscato d’Asti and Moscato d’Asti Vendemmia Tardiva.  Moscato d’Asti Santa Vittoira d’Alba must have a potential alcohol of 12%. The vendemmia tardiva wines have quite a few unique requirements, including: a potential alcohol content of 15% and an actual minimum of 12% abv, a minimum aging of two years (beginning with January 1 of the year after the vintage year), and partial-drying of the grapes (post-harvest).
• Strevi: Like the Canelli sub-zone, Strevi (located on the eastern edge of the DOCG) is approved for Moscato d’Asti only, and the wines using this designation must have a potential alcohol of 12% abv (slightly higher than the general requirement of 11%).

Asti….like we said, so fun, fruity, simple, and (sometimes) sweet….and yet again, so complex.

References/for more information:

• http://www.astidocg.it/asti-secco/
• https://winemakermag.com/blogs/potential-alcohol-in-wine+
• https://www.guildsomm.com/
• https://italianwinecentral.com/
• Disciplinare Asti DOCG revised 2017

http://www.austrianwine.com/our-wine/austrian-sekt/

As serious students of wine might remember, Austria updated it wine laws—in quite a major overhaul—in July of 2016. As part of this mashup, the laws concerning PDO Austrian Sekt were revised, and as of this the 2017 harvest, these laws have been refined and come into effect. As such, it seems like a good time to take a deep dive into the new laws concerning bubbles from Austria!

The Basics: These regulations apply to “Austrian Sekt with Protected Designation of Origin” (Österreichischer Sekt mit geschützter Ursprungsbezeichnung [gU]). Such wines must be designated on the labeled as Qualitätsschaumwein or Sekt and one of the following terms: Klassik, Reserve, or Grosse Reserve (Grand Reserve). These wines must be produced using just the 36 grape varieties designated for use in Austrian Quality wines, although specific grapes or blends are not mandated. The carbon dioxide dissolved in the bottle must be a minimum of 3.5 atm.  (Click here for a list of the: The Austria 36-Grape Varieties)

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Austrian Sekt Klassik:

• May be produced using any sparkling wine production method
• Grapes must be sourced from one single Austrian State, which must serve as the wine’s appellation of origin
• Must be vinified in Austria
• Minimum 12.5% abv
• Minimum of 9 months aging on the lees; may be released to the consumer after October 22 of the year following harvest
• All styles (red, white, rosé) and all sweetness levels are allowed

Austrian Sekt Reserve:

• Must be made using the traditional method of sparkling wine production with whole-cluster pressing
• Grapes must be sourced from one single Austrian State, which must serve as the wine’s appellation of origin
• Must be hand-harvested
• (No regulations regarding abv)
• Minimum of 18 months aging on the lees; may be released to the consumer after October 22 of the second year following harvest
• Must be brut-level sweetness or drier
• May be red, white, or rosé, but rosé must be produced using red grapes only

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Austrian Sekt Grosse Reserve (Grand Reserve):

• Must be made using the traditional method of sparkling wine production with whole-cluster pressing
• Grapes must be sourced from one single Austrian winegrowing community, vineyard designation from registered sites permitted
• Must be hand-harvested
• (No regulations regarding abv)
• Minimum of 30 months aging on the lees; may be released to the consumer after October 22 of the third year following harvest
• Must be brut-level sweetness or drier (maximum 12 g/L R.S.)
• May be red, white, or rosé, but rosé must be produced using red grapes only

For many of us, it seems like these regulations come just in time for the winter holidays, giving us one more reason to reach for the bubbly!

References/for more information:

• http://www.austrianwine.com/our-wine/austrian-sekt/
• http://www.austrianwine.com/our-wine/austrian-sekt/sekt-gu-from-austria-protected-designation-of-origin-certified-quality/