Category Archives: News of The Wine World

Welcome to the World, Emilia-Romagna DOC!

Also known as: The Pignoletto Chronicles or Pignoletto: It’s a Grape (not a Place)! 

First things first: we are here to announce a significant event…the EU has approved and registered a new Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) appellation for Italian Wines: The Emilia-Romagna DOC. This new appellation is approved for white wines based on the Pignoletto grape variety. A range of white wine styles are allowed—including dry-and-still (non-sparkling) wine, sparkling wine, frizzante (slightly sparkling/fizzy) wine, and passito (dried-grape, sweet) wine. These wines will be labeled with some variation of the term Emilia Romagna Pignoletto DOC.

Be advised, however, that the story behind this new appellation is long, complicated, and fascinating. TL/DR: It’s complicated, but the Pignoletto DOC was never approved by the EU, and has changed its name to Emilia-Romagna DOC (which has been approved by the EU). 

Here goes…after several years of deliberation, the EU has spoken, and they have decided that Pignoletto is a grape, but not a place (and it cannot be an appellation). In accordance, the use of the term Pignoletto cannot be limited to any certain location, and the EU has denied Italy’s request to create the Pignoletto DOC. In addition, the disciplinare for the Pignoletto DOC has been removed from the website of Italy’s Ministry of Agriculture.

The rest of the story: Italy’s Ministry of Agriculture made an application (to the EU) back in 2014 for a new appellation to be known as the Pignoletto DOC. This occurred when it was discovered that the variety known in Emilia-Romagna as Pignoletto is identical to Grechetto di Todi, and nearly identical to Grechetto di Orvieto—a grape widely grown in Umbria and Marches (and elsewhere). In an attempt to limit the use of traditional name (Pignoletto) to the central area of Emilia-Romagna, a new appellation was proposed: Pignoletto DOC.

At the same time, a modification to the Colli Bolognesi DOC was published. The idea was that all of the Pignoletto-based wines—including dry, still, sparkling, and sweet styles—previously produced in the Colli Bolognesi DOC (and surrounding areas) would be labeled under the Pignoletto DOC. This would, in theory, define Pignoletto as a region, and as such, other areas would be prohibited from using the term Pignoletto to refer to Grechetto grapes.

The proposed modifications to the Colli Bolognesi DOC were accepted and registered by the EU in 2014. As a result, the Colli Bolognesi DOC is now approved for the production of red, white, and sparkling wines from a range of approved grapes; these include Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Trebbiano, Pinot Blanc (Pinot Bianco), Barbera, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon—but NOT Pignoletto.

However, as we now know, the EU chose NOT to approve the registration of the Pignoletto DOC. This left Italy with a conundrum: should they re-consolidate the separated DOCs? That sounds complicated and fails to solve the unique Problema Pignoletto.  Accordingly, a relatively simple solution was suggested: change the name. What could have/would have been the Pignoletto DOC will move forward as the Emilia-Romagna DOC.

Note: Another Pignoletto-based appellation—the Colli Bolognese Pignoletto DOCG—was created in 2004. The Colli Bolognesi Pignoletto DOCG is an ultra-small production appellation approved for Pignoletto-based white wines only (dry or off-dry [non-sparkling] wines only). The Colli Bolgonese Pignoletto DOCG has stricter standards—as per yield, planting density, and aging) as compared to the Pignoletto-based wines of the larger Emilia-Romagna DOC.

It was a long and winding road, but…Welcome to the World, Emilia Romagna DOC!

References/for more information:

• Disciplinare-Emilia Romagna DOC
• EU Council Implementing Deicsion Emilia Romagna DOC December 2023

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Photo via the Tarragona CR

The Tarragona DO—registered in 1947—is a diverse, discontiguous wine region located in Catalonia. The eastern section of the appellation stretches along Spain’s Mediterranean Coast, while a smaller outpost is located further inland. The area includes the coastal plain just south of Penedès, the foothills of the Serra de Montalt, and a portion of the Ebro River Valley.

As befits such a diverse area, the list of grape varieties allowed for use in the DO is long and involved. Leading red grapes include Garnacha Negre, Carignan (here known as Samsó or Carinyena), Tempranillo (Ull de Llebre), Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. White grapes include Garnacha Blanca, Chardonnay, Macabeo, Xarel-lo, Moscatel (Muscat), Parellada, and Sauvignon Blanc.

The catalog of wine styles allowed for production under the auspices of the DO is even more impressive and contains no less than ten styles of wine. Included are various styles of white, red, and rosé wine in addition to oxidized wines (vino rancio), sparkling wines, fortified wines, mistela, and late-harvest wine.

As of November 2023, as published in the Journal of the European Union, the Tarragona DO is approved for one more style of wine: Orange Wine (referred to as Vino Brisado in Spanish or Vin Orange in French).

The Orange Wine of Tarragona is a skin-contact white wine macerated on the skins, seeds, and (perhaps) stems of the grapes in addition to the juice. It may be produced using the same grape varieties as allowed in the appellation’s white wines—Chardonnay, Garnacha Blanca, Macabeo, Xarel-lo, Moscatel, Parellada, Sauvignon Blanc, or Malvasia (Subirat Parent)—as well as Xarel-lo Rosado (a pink-berried mutation of Xarel-lo). It is described as being clear and bright, and ranging in color from intense yellow to amber/orange. Primary, herbaceous, and vegetal aromas are typical, as is a good balance of acidity. Some bitter and/or tannic notes may be noted as well.

References/for more information:

• Tarragona Orange Wine EU Journal
• Tarragona DO 2023

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

The Côtes du Roussillon AOC covers certain dry wines—red, white, and rosé—produced in the Roussillon region located in the south of France. The appellation—located on the eastern side of the Pyrénées-Orientales department—enjoys a warm, Mediterranean climate and is described as a vast, east-facing amphitheater surrounded on three sides by mountains and on one side by the sea. Wine has been produced in the area since (at least) 600 BCE.

The Côtes du Roussillon AOC is a broad appellation approved for the production of dry, still (non-sparkling) red, white and rosé wines. The appellation’s cahier des charges (list of rules and regulations) has recently (as of November 2023) been given a detailed (complicated) update. While some of these changes may seem minor—such as moving accessory grapes to the list of principal grapes and small changes to allowed or required components of a blend—inquiring wine students will want to take note of the following:

• Changes that apply to the white wines of the Côtes du Roussillon AOC:
  • A maximum upper limit of 10 % for accessory varieties has been introduced
  • Two varieties—Viognier and Carignan Blanc—have been approved as accessory varieties

• Change that applies to the red wines of the Côtes du Roussillon AOC:
  • Accessory grapes may now comprise up to 30% of the total blend (previously, the maximum was 20%)

• Changes that apply to the rosé wines of the Côtes du Roussillon AOC:
  • Grenache Gris is now a principal grape (it was previously an accessory grape)
  • Carignan and Mourvèdre are now accessory grapes (they were previously principal grapes)
  • Accessory grapes may now comprise up to 30% of the total blend (previously, the maximum was 20%)
  • The (combined) minimum percentage for the main grape varieties (Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Syrah) has been reduced from 80% to 70%.

Considering the inclusion of these changes to the rules of the appellation, the wines of the are now defined as follows:

• The white wines of the Côtes du Roussillon AOC:
  • Principal varieties: Grenache balance, Macabeu, Tourbat/Malvoisie du Roussillon
  • Accessory varieties: Grenache Gris, Marsanne, Roussanne, Vermentino, Viognier, Carignan Blance
  • Must contain at least two grape varieties
  • No single grape may make up more than 80% of the total blend
  • Grenache Blanc, Macabeu, and Tourbat/Malvoisie du Roussillon—separately or combined—must comprise at least 50% of the blend
  • Accessory varieties may comprise a maximum (combined) of 10% of the blend

• The red wines of the Côtes du Roussillon AOC:
  • Principal varieties: Carignan, Grenache Noir, Mourvèdre, Syrah
  • Accessory varieties: Cinsault, Lledoner Pelut
  • Must contain at least two grape varieties
  • No single grape may make up more than 80% of the total blend
  • Accessory varieties may comprise a maximum (combined) of 30% of the blend

• The rosé wines of the Côtes du Roussillon AOC:
  • Principal varieties: Grenache Noir, Grenache Gris, Syrah
  • Accessory varieties: Carignan, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Lledoner Pelut, Macabeu
  • Must contain at least two grape varieties
  • No single grape may make up more than 80% of the total blend
  • Accessory varieties may comprise a maximum (combined) of 30% of the blend

We warned you it was complicated!

References/for more information:

• Cahier des Charges Côtes du Roussillon AOC 20231
• Cotes du Roussilloon EU Journal November 2023

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Photo by Chris Krebs via the Austrian Wine Marketing Board

As announced via the website of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board, the vineyards of Austria will be eligible for classification as of 2025. As such, the finest vineyards of the land may soon bear the title of Grosse Lage (Grand Cru) or Erste Lage (Premier Cru).

The legal basis for this official, nationwide classification system is the recently passed Wine Law Collective Decree of 2023. Established vineyards—designated as Rieden by some regional organizations—may first be designated as Erste Lage (Premier Cru). Vineyards so designated will be eligible for Grosse Lage (Grand Cru) status after five years.

• Additional qualifications for the new designations include the following:
  • Vineyards must be located within a Districtus Austriae Controllatus (DAC) region that has previously defined the three available quality levels of wine (Gebietswein/Regional Wine, Ortswein/Village Wine, and Riedenwein/Single-vineyard Wine)
  • Grapes must be hand-harvested
  • Maximum yields will be set, and are expected to be substantially lower than the general standard for the region
  • Designations must be approved by the National Wine Committee. Approval will require the submission of a detailed application describing the geography, soil, climate, historical significance, value, and potential quality of each vineyard and wine.

The ratings are expected to appear on wine labels beginning in 2025 (at the earliest).

References/for more information:

• https://www.austrianwine.com/press-multimedia/news/news-1/article/austria-defines-the-legal-basis-for-an-official-vineyard-classification-system
• Wine Law Collective Decree of Austria 2023 (only available in German)

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

August 25, 2023: The hybrids have officially arrived! As per an announcement via France’s Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité (INAO), a few select disease-resistant hybrid grape varieties will be allowed for use (as accessory varieties) in the wines of the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur AOCs.

The four newly-approved disease-resistant hybrid grapes—which will be making their way into the ground in the next few months—are as follows:

Floréal: Floréal: is an interspecific white hybrid produced via Villaris and a descendant of Muscadinia rotundifolia. The grape tends to be highly aromatic with high acidity and tropical fruit/tree fruit aromas and flavors. Floréal is approved for use in the white and rosé wines of the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur AOCs (with the exception of the white wines of the Bordeax-Haut-Benauge sub-region).

Sauvignac: Sauvignac (Blanc) is an interspecific white hybrid resulting from a descendant of Sauvignon x Riesling X an unknown hybrid (it’s complicated). The grape is known for aromas of tropical fruit and citrus, but it may lack acidity. Sauvignac is approved for use in the white and rosé wines of the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur AOCs (with the exception of the white wines of the Bordeax-Haut-Benauge sub-region).

Sauvignier Gris: Sauvignier Gris is an interspecific, grey (gris)-skinned hybrid created via Seyval Blanc and Zähringer (although there has previously been much confusion and debate regarding its parentage). The grape is known to have thick skins, a good deal of extract, and a somewhat neutral aroma. Sauvignier Gris is approved for use in the white and rosé wines of the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur AOCs (with the exception of the white wines of the Bordeax-Haut-Benauge sub-region).

Vidoc: Vidoc is an interspecific red hybrid produced via a descendant of Muscadinia rotundifolia and  Regent. The grapes are known to produce full-bodied red wines with deep color and spicy aromas. Vidoc is approved for use in the red and rosé wines of the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur AOCs.

The application of such “accessory varieties” (a group that includes all of these newly-approved hybrids) is going to remain minimal for the foreseeable future, as their combined use is currently limited to a maximum of 5% to 10% of the blend in any given wine. In addition, the INAO limits the total plantings of hybrid grape varieties to a maximum of 5% of any given estate’s holding.

Note: Rumor has it that the Médoc and Haut-Médoc AOCs have applied for permitted use of the same hybrid grapes as well as Voltis. We’ll be watching to see when and if this update is approved.

References/for more information:

• Bordeaux AOC Cahier des Charges August 2023
• Bordeaux Superieur AOC Cahier des Charges August 2023
• Floréal at Planet Grape: https://plantgrape.plantnet-project.org/en/cepage/Floreal
• Sauvignac at Planet Grape:  https://plantgrape.plantnet-project.org/en/recherche/Sauvignac
• Sauvignier Gris via the Wines of Austria website: https://www.austrianwine.com/our-wine/grape-varieties/white-wine/souvignier-gris/
• Vidoc at Planet Grape:  https://plantgrape.plantnet-project.org/en/cepage/Vidoc

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Tucked in between Bordeaux’s two famous rivers—the Dordogne and the Garonne—Entre-deux-Mers has been a white-wine-only appellation since its inception in 1937.

However, as of August 25 (2023), there’s been a (big) change, and Entre-deux-Mers is now approved for the production of red wines.

Grape varieties approved for use in the red wines of the Entre-deux-Mers AOC include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec (Cot), Cabernet Franc, and Petite Verdot. Carmenère is considered an “accessory variety” and is limited to a maximum of 30% of the final blend of any specific wine. In addition, the blend must consist of at least two grape varieties.

• Other regulations concerning Entre-deux-Mers Rouge include the following:
  • Minimum of 12% abv
  • Must undergo malolactic fermentation: maximum of 0.3 g/L malic acid
  • Must be vinified dry: maximum of 3 g/L residual sugar
  • Vines must also be planted at a minimum density of 4,500 vines per hectare (as compared to a minimum of 4,000 vines per hectare for [generic] Bordeaux AOC wines)

It is estimated that there are more than 5,700 hectares/14,000 acres of red grapes planted in the Entre-deux-Mers region that meet the density requirements. Red grapes grown in the remaining vineyards may continue to be made into wine that is bottled under the Bordeaux AOC or Bordeaux Supérieur AOC.

Note: as of the date of this post, the Entre-deux-Mers Haut Benauge sub-appellation is still approved for white wines only.

Welcome to the world, Entre-deux-Mers Rouge!

References/for more information:

• Entre-deux-Mers Cahier des Charges August 2023

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Base map via the TTB AVA Explorer (click to enlarge)

On August 28 (2023), the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States announced the approval of the Winters Highlands American Viticultural Area (AVA). The new AVA is located in portions of California’s Solano and Yolo Counties.

The Winters Highlands AVA is inland from the North Coast AVA and not located within any other AVA. The new AVA is situated between the California Coast Range and the Sacramento River Valley and includes the eastern most foothills of the northern Coastal Range with gentle to steep slopes at elevations ranging between I00 feet/30 m and 400 feet/120 m above sea level.

According to the original petition—submitted on behalf of Berryessa Gap Vineyards and originally submitted in November of 2023—the distinguishing features of the Winters Highlands AVA include its soil and climate—as described below.

Soil: The soils in the Winters Highlands AVA—consisting mainly of moderately well-drained clay and loam derived from sedimentary soils—tend to stay warm in the winter and cool in the summer. They are similar in parent material to the soils found in the surrounding areas; however, the texture differs due to variances in erosion and weathering.

Base map via the TTB AVA Explorer (click to enlarge)

Climate: The new AVA is located on the eastern (inland) side of the California Coast Ranges, which provides some shelter from the cooling effect of the Pacific Ocean. However, the Berryessa Gap—a break in the mountains where Putah Creek flows into Lake Berryessa—allows for some cooling effect (particularly in the evenings). As a result, while the new AVA has more degree days and is warmer overall than most of the surrounding areas; it does tend to be cooler at night and therefore benefits from the “warm days/cool nights” conditions beneficial to the cultivation of Mediterranean grape varieties.

The Winters Highlands AVA covers a total of 7,296 acres; of these, approximately 134 acres are currently planted with commercial vineyards (with another 60 acres in the planning stages). Petite Sirah, Tempranillo, Zinfandel, and Malbec are the leading red grape varieties; white varieties include Chardonnay, Albariño, Verdejo, and Sauvignon Blanc. There are currently three wineries—including Berryessa Gap Vineyards and Turkovich Family Wines—located within the new AVA (as well as several in the planning stages).

When the Winters Highlands AVA is brought into force—on September 28, 2023—the total number of AVAs in the United States will be 269; of these, 149 will be in California.

Welcome to the world, Winters Highlands AVA!

References/for more information:

• Establishment of the Winters Highlands AVA-TTB Final Rule
• Petition to Establish the Winters Highlands AVA

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Photo via: https://www.champagne-coessens.com/

The mere mention of the word “Champagne” brings visions of beautiful, bubbly wine…and rightfully it should, as the Champagne District is home to what is arguably the world’s most famous sparkling wine. The aligned appellation—the Champagne AOC—strictly defines the wines of Champagne and is valid only for use on certain French-produced, closely protected, and highly regulated sparkling wines.

However, winemakers within the Champagne Region—located about 100 miles/160 km east of Paris and covering portions of the Aube, Marne, Haute-Marne, and Ardennes departments—may also produce still (non-sparkling) wines under the Coteaux Champenois AOC.

The Coteaux Champenois AOC was originally established in 1974 and allows for white (blanc), rosé, and red (rouge) wines to be produced using the same grapes that are allowed in the sparkling wines of the Champagne AOC. Since 1974, the list of allowed grape varieties has read as follows: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Meunier (Pinot Meunier), Arbane, Petit Meslier, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Gris; however, in practice most of the region’s Chardonnay and Pinot Noir is used in the area’s sparkling wines.

Map of the Coteaux Champenois AOC via the INAO

Well-versed students of wine might recall that just a few months ago (December 2023, to be exact), the list of grape varieties approved for use in the Champagne AOC was expanded by one (very unique) white grape—Voltis. Voltis is a hybrid variety chosen in part due to “interests for the purpose of adaptation” (intérêt à fin d’adaptation) and to respond to the challenges of climate change.

As such, it should come as no surprise that the regulations concerning the grapes allowed in the non-sparkling wines of the Champagne region have also been updated. As of July 18, 2023, the Coteaux Champenois AOC allows for use limited of the Voltis grape variety. Mimicking the recent revisions to the Champagne AOC, Voltis will be limited to 5% of the vineyard area of any estate and no more than 10% of the final blend of any cuvée.

We’ll be watching to see what vineyards and estates begin using Voltis in the wines of the Coteaux Champenois AOC. It should be interesting!

References/for more information:

• Cahier de Charges – Coteaux Champenois AOC updated 2023
• Official Journal of the EU-July 18 2023
• Map of the AOC Coteaux Chapenois via the INAO

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org