Welcome to the World, Terre d’Abruzzo IGT!

Teramo, Abruzzo

Teramo, Abruzzo

As announced in the January 3 (2024) edition of the EU Journal, Italy has a new Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) classification for wine: the Terre d’Abruzzo IGT (aka Terre Abruzzesi). The new appellation is approved for a range of wine styles produced from grapes grown anywhere within the administrative region of Abruzzo.

BUT WAIT! Before all the wine students of the world (including me) let out a collective sigh and bemoan the growing number of appellations to study, note this: The Terre d’Abruzzo IGT is intended to replace the 8 IGTs currently scattered across Abruzzo. (We’ll have to wait to see the paperwork on this development, but it sounds promising.)

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Wine styles allowed under the Terre d’Abruzzo IGT include red (rosso), white (bianco), and rosé (rosato) in still (non-sparkling), frizzante (slightly sparkling), and passito (dried grape; red or white only) editions.

The list of grape varieties is long and varied. It includes several obscure, local varieties such as Mostosa, Passerina, and Pecorino; in addition to quite a few better-known Italian grapes such as Garganega, Moscato, Sangiovese, and Primitivo. International varieties—including Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Gris/Pinot Grigio—are on the list as well. (For a complete catalog of approved varieties, see the disciplinare, attached below.)

Blends (typically bottled under the appellation name) are allowed as well as certain varietals (which—per EU standards—must contain a minimum of 85% of the named variety). Red wines may be produced in the novello (young, lively, and fruit-forward) style.

Welcome to the World, Terre d’Abruzzo IGT!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

 

New EU Wine Labeling Laws in Effect!

European Union flag in front of the Berlaymont building, headquaFor several years, the Agricultural and Rural Development Council of the European Union (EU) has been working on a new set of labeling laws for wine and aromatized wine products. These laws—which are in effect as of December 8, 2023, and will apply to all wine released in the EU as of the 2024 vintage—are meant to provide consumers with additional information on a wine’s nutritional value and the ingredients used in the production of the wine.

  • For context, EU wines have always required the following information to be declared on wine labels, and will continue to do so:
    • The designation of the category of grapevine product (type or style of wine product)
    • The region of origin, which may be an appellation or simply indication of provenance
    • ABV (alcoholic strength percentage by volume)
    • The name of the bottler, producer, or vendor
    • Net contents
    • For sparkling wines, sugar level/content
  • Under the new laws, the following information must also be clearly stated on the wine label:
    • List of any ingredients that may cause allergies or intolerances; these include sulfites, eggs and egg-based products, milk and milk-based products
  • Under the new laws, the following information must be declared; however, it may be stated on the wine label OR available via electronic means such as a QR code:
    • Nutritional values including average values of energy (calories) as well as the amounts of fat, saturated fat, carbohydrates, sugar, protein, and salt.
    • List of ingredients, presented in descending order of weight, as recorded at the time of their use in the manufacture of the product. (Ingredients that make up less than 2% of the finished product may be listed in any order.) Additives must be listed according to the functional category, such as acidity regulators, preservatives/antioxidants, enrichments (such as concentrated grape must), or stabilizing agents. Yeast and alternative gases (as may be used in bottling) are considered processing aids and do not need to be listed as an ingredient.
    • Use-by date for de-alcoholized products

These rules—which in their current incarnation far exceed the labeling declarations required of wines produced or distributed in the United States—will apply to all wine (including American wine) distributed in the European Union.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

 

Welcome to the World, Emilia Romagna DOC (aka the Pignoletto Chronicles)

PignolettoWelcome to the World, Emilia-Romagna DOC!

Also known as: The Pignoletto Chronicles or Pignoletto: It’s a Grape (not a Place)! 

First things first: we are here to announce a significant event…the EU has approved and registered a new Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) appellation for Italian Wines: The Emilia-Romagna DOC. This new appellation is approved for white wines based on the Pignoletto grape variety. A range of white wine styles are allowed—including dry-and-still (non-sparkling) wine, sparkling wine, frizzante (slightly sparkling/fizzy) wine, and passito (dried-grape, sweet) wine. These wines will be labeled with some variation of the term Emilia Romagna Pignoletto DOC.

Be advised, however, that the story behind this new appellation is long, complicated, and fascinating. TL/DR: It’s complicated, but the Pignoletto DOC was never approved by the EU, and has changed its name to Emilia-Romagna DOC (which has been approved by the EU). 

Here goes…after several years of deliberation, the EU has spoken, and they have decided that Pignoletto is a grape, but not a place (and it cannot be an appellation). In accordance, the use of the term Pignoletto cannot be limited to any certain location, and the EU has denied Italy’s request to create the Pignoletto DOC. In addition, the disciplinare for the Pignoletto DOC has been removed from the website of Italy’s Ministry of Agriculture.

31776357 - white wine in a glass on a backgroundThe rest of the story: Italy’s Ministry of Agriculture made an application (to the EU) back in 2014 for a new appellation to be known as the Pignoletto DOC. This occurred when it was discovered that the variety known in Emilia-Romagna as Pignoletto is identical to Grechetto di Todi, and nearly identical to Grechetto di Orvieto—a grape widely grown in Umbria and Marches (and elsewhere). In an attempt to limit the use of traditional name (Pignoletto) to the central area of Emilia-Romagna, a new appellation was proposed: Pignoletto DOC.

At the same time, a modification to the Colli Bolognesi DOC was published. The idea was that all of the Pignoletto-based wines—including dry, still, sparkling, and sweet styles—previously produced in the Colli Bolognesi DOC (and surrounding areas) would be labeled under the Pignoletto DOC. This would, in theory, define Pignoletto as a region, and as such, other areas would be prohibited from using the term Pignoletto to refer to Grechetto grapes.

The proposed modifications to the Colli Bolognesi DOC were accepted and registered by the EU in 2014. As a result, the Colli Bolognesi DOC is now approved for the production of red, white, and sparkling wines from a range of approved grapes; these include Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Trebbiano, Pinot Blanc (Pinot Bianco), Barbera, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon—but NOT Pignoletto.

However, as we now know, the EU chose NOT to approve the registration of the Pignoletto DOC. This left Italy with a conundrum: should they re-consolidate the separated DOCs? That sounds complicated and fails to solve the unique Problema Pignoletto.  Accordingly, a relatively simple solution was suggested: change the name. What could have/would have been the Pignoletto DOC will move forward as the Emilia-Romagna DOC.

Note: Another Pignoletto-based appellation—the Colli Bolognese Pignoletto DOCG—was created in 2004. The Colli Bolognesi Pignoletto DOCG is an ultra-small production appellation approved for Pignoletto-based white wines only (dry or off-dry [non-sparkling] wines only). The Colli Bolgonese Pignoletto DOCG has stricter standards—as per yield, planting density, and aging) as compared to the Pignoletto-based wines of the larger Emilia-Romagna DOC.

It was a long and winding road, but…Welcome to the World, Emilia Romagna DOC!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

The Orange Wine of the Tarragona DO

Photo via the Tarragona CR

Photo via the Tarragona CR

The Tarragona DO—registered in 1947—is a diverse, discontiguous wine region located in Catalonia. The eastern section of the appellation stretches along Spain’s Mediterranean Coast, while a smaller outpost is located further inland. The area includes the coastal plain just south of Penedès, the foothills of the Serra de Montalt, and a portion of the Ebro River Valley.

As befits such a diverse area, the list of grape varieties allowed for use in the DO is long and involved. Leading red grapes include Garnacha Negre, Carignan (here known as Samsó or Carinyena), Tempranillo (Ull de Llebre), Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. White grapes include Garnacha Blanca, Chardonnay, Macabeo, Xarel-lo, Moscatel (Muscat), Parellada, and Sauvignon Blanc.

The catalog of wine styles allowed for production under the auspices of the DO is even more impressive and contains no less than ten styles of wine. Included are various styles of white, red, and rosé wine in addition to oxidized wines (vino rancio), sparkling wines, fortified wines, mistela, and late-harvest wine.

Tarragona DOAs of November 2023, as published in the Journal of the European Union, the Tarragona DO is approved for one more style of wine: Orange Wine (referred to as Vino Brisado in Spanish or Vin Orange in French).

The Orange Wine of Tarragona is a skin-contact white wine macerated on the skins, seeds, and (perhaps) stems of the grapes in addition to the juice. It may be produced using the same grape varieties as allowed in the appellation’s white wines—Chardonnay, Garnacha Blanca, Macabeo, Xarel-lo, Moscatel, Parellada, Sauvignon Blanc, or Malvasia (Subirat Parent)—as well as Xarel-lo Rosado (a pink-berried mutation of Xarel-lo). It is described as being clear and bright, and ranging in color from intense yellow to amber/orange. Primary, herbaceous, and vegetal aromas are typical, as is a good balance of acidity. Some bitter and/or tannic notes may be noted as well.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Dispatch from the Côtes du Roussillon AOC

Vineyard in Cevennes FranceThe Côtes du Roussillon AOC covers certain dry wines—red, white, and rosé—produced in the Roussillon region located in the south of France. The appellation—located on the eastern side of the Pyrénées-Orientales department—enjoys a warm, Mediterranean climate and is described as a vast, east-facing amphitheater surrounded on three sides by mountains and on one side by the sea. Wine has been produced in the area since (at least) 600 BCE.

The Côtes du Roussillon AOC is a broad appellation approved for the production of dry, still (non-sparkling) red, white and rosé wines. The appellation’s cahier des charges (list of rules and regulations) has recently (as of November 2023) been given a detailed (complicated) update. While some of these changes may seem minor—such as moving accessory grapes to the list of principal grapes and small changes to allowed or required components of a blend—inquiring wine students will want to take note of the following:

  • Changes that apply to the white wines of the Côtes du Roussillon AOC:
    • A maximum upper limit of 10 % for accessory varieties has been introduced
    • Two varieties—Viognier and Carignan Blanc—have been approved as accessory varieties
  • Change that applies to the red wines of the Côtes du Roussillon AOC:
    • Accessory grapes may now comprise up to 30% of the total blend (previously, the maximum was 20%)
  • Changes that apply to the rosé wines of the Côtes du Roussillon AOC:
    • Grenache Gris is now a principal grape (it was previously an accessory grape)
    • Carignan and Mourvèdre are now accessory grapes (they were previously principal grapes)
    • Accessory grapes may now comprise up to 30% of the total blend (previously, the maximum was 20%)
    • The (combined) minimum percentage for the main grape varieties (Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Syrah) has been reduced from 80% to 70%.

Village of Roussillon in the ProvenceConsidering the inclusion of these changes to the rules of the appellation, the wines of the are now defined as follows:

  • The white wines of the Côtes du Roussillon AOC:
    • Principal varieties: Grenache balance, Macabeu, Tourbat/Malvoisie du Roussillon
    • Accessory varieties: Grenache Gris, Marsanne, Roussanne, Vermentino, Viognier, Carignan Blance
    • Must contain at least two grape varieties
    • No single grape may make up more than 80% of the total blend
    • Grenache Blanc, Macabeu, and Tourbat/Malvoisie du Roussillon—separately or combined—must comprise at least 50% of the blend
    • Accessory varieties may comprise a maximum (combined) of 10% of the blend
  • The red wines of the Côtes du Roussillon AOC:
    • Principal varieties: Carignan, Grenache Noir, Mourvèdre, Syrah
    • Accessory varieties: Cinsault, Lledoner Pelut
    • Must contain at least two grape varieties
    • No single grape may make up more than 80% of the total blend
    • Accessory varieties may comprise a maximum (combined) of 30% of the blend
  • The rosé wines of the Côtes du Roussillon AOC:
    • Principal varieties: Grenache Noir, Grenache Gris, Syrah
    • Accessory varieties: Carignan, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Lledoner Pelut, Macabeu
    • Must contain at least two grape varieties
    • No single grape may make up more than 80% of the total blend
    • Accessory varieties may comprise a maximum (combined) of 30% of the blend

We warned you it was complicated!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

France has a New AOC—Sable de Camargue!

Map of Sable de Camargue via the INAO

Map of Sable de Camargue via the INAO

As of October 10 (2023), France has one more wine approved at the protected designation of origin (PDO)—also referred to as (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée/AOC) level: The Sable de Camargue. This region has a long history of producing unique gris– (light rosé-) style wines and was previously approved as a Vin de Pay (Indication Géographique Protégée/IGP) region. (The IGP has been cancelled and replaced by the AOC.)

The name of the appellation refers to the sandy soils (sable) of the Camargue—a vast plain and the largest river delta in Europe tucked between the two arms of the Rhône River just before it reaches the Mediterranean Sea.

The Sable de Camargue AOC is approved for light rosé wines only; in the Cahier des Charges the wines are referred to as vin gris and vin gris de gris. Both styles are required to be made using minimal or no skin contact (a method often referred to as “direct press”).

The wines are described as “pale salmon in color” with fruity (white fruit, citrus fruit, exotic fruit, red fruit), floral, and mineral aromas. The gris de gris wines are lighter in color, more subtle, and quite delicate in aroma and flavor.

The allowed grape varieties are as follows:

  • Sable de Camargue Gris:
    • Minimum 55% (combined) Grenache Noir, Grenache Gris, Carignan, Cinsault, Grenache Blanc, Marselan, Muscat of Alexandria, Syrah, Ugni Blanc, and/or Rolle (Vermentino)
      • Note: in practice, Grenache Noir and/or Grenache Gris form the backbone of most wines
    • Other allowed grapes include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc
  • Sable de Camargue Gris de Gris:
    • Only Grenache Gris is allowed

graphic-map-camargueThis area is highly unique due to its sandy soil, high winds, predominant humidity, and proximity to saltwater marshes. According to the Cahier des Charges, these factors combine to provide the grapes with a slow, even ripening; unique pink, bluish-grey color, and high levels of acidity. These factors, combined with the qualified production techniques create a style of wine known as vins des sables (wines from the sands).

Welcome to the world, Sable de Camargue AOC!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Guest Blogger—Move Over Beer: Wine Comes to Ballparks

Today we have a post written by guest blogger Matilda Parente, MD, CSW. Matilda is a good friend of SWE and has been one of most popular conference presenters in years past. Today, she tells us a story of wine and baseball…what’s not to love?

Photo credit: Matilda Parente

Photo credit: Matilda Parente

The end of the 2023 baseball season promises tight pennant races, riveting playoff series and—fans hope—a thrilling World Series. Wine lovers lucky enough to score game tickets have another reason to cheer, as wine worth a sip is popping up at ballparks across the country.

Wine has been moving in on beer—the traditional preferred ballpark beverage—since at least 1997. Wine service began that year for the San Francisco Giants’ home opener at Candlestick Park. Wine offerings went deep in 2013 when Zipz, a company that introduced a novel single-serve wine glass, partnered with Fetzer to bring a line of premium wine offerings to Major League Baseball crowds, hitting safely in San Francisco, Tampa Bay and Seattle.

In 2020, Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi struck a partnership with MLB to become its official wine, expanding upon its baseball-approved status as the official wine of the Los Angeles Dodgers.

The San Francisco Giants rallied around wine once again in 2022, when it became the first team in all professional sports to bring on a Master Sommelier—the Bay Area’s Evan Goldstein—with the aim to elevate an already robust ballpark wine program. Some of Goldstein’s pairing ideas have included a chilled Beaujolais Villages with a Louisiana Dog, an Argentine Malbec with nachos, and a lower-alcohol Merlot or Cabernet (Sauvignon or Franc) with tri-tip.

Photo credit: Matila Parente

Photo credit: Matilda Parente

At most ballparks now, food and beverage offerings have undergone a much-needed makeover. Fans no longer need to sacrifice game-day palates to rubbery hot dogs on bland bread washed down with a forgettable beer. Along with dozens of craft beer offerings, Petco Park in San Diego, named the 2023 best ballpark in the country by USA Today for the second year in a row, gives vinous-minded fans a line-up of 25 exceptional wines at its Belle Glos Wine Cellar and Belle Glos Wine Cave outposts. Wine pours can be found across the park’s exceptional food outlets, which include an outpost of Taiwan’s Din Tai Fung and San Diego’s own Puesto and Grand Ole BBQ y Asado, the latter two serving mouth-watering birria tacos and Argentine choripan, housemade chorizo and chimichurri on a warm bolillo roll.

The wine service at Petco Park is a far cry from that found at typical sporting venues; fans can choose from premium wines like the home-run offerings usually found at higher end restaurants. Bottles on the Reserve List can range from Cristal, red and white wines by Far Niente to Napa’s Hundred Acre. Best part about the $1,000 price tag? It’s a cashless venue. Fans can also order wine delivered to their seats, whether by 7-ounce pour or by the bottle, served in a souvenir Padres logo plastic carafe with stemless cups. Score early, as wine service at Petco ends with the first pitch of the 8th inning.

The stadium food and beverage revamp is coming in hot across the country. At Yankee Stadium, NYY Steak has become a destination steakhouse, complete with a smart, extensive wine list. Out west, the Seattle Mariners have partnered with Chateau Ste. Michelle for its many wine outlets at T-Mobile Park, which include wine on tap. Down south, the wine bar at the Houston Astros’ Minute Maid Park even serves frosés. But if your taste runs Veuve Clicquot instead, head to the park’s 19th Hole, said to have the largest wine selection in MLB. You know, Texas.

So, get out to the yard before the season ends and indulge in savory and out-of-the-box ballpark eats, served up with a glass or carafe of well-chosen wines worth a sip. Some say they make the crack of the bat sound even sweeter.

Matilda Parente, MD, CSW is a wine educator based in San Diego.

 

Austria: Here Come the Crus!

Photo by Chris Krebs via the Austrian Wine Marketing Board

Photo by Chris Krebs via the Austrian Wine Marketing Board

As announced via the website of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board, the vineyards of Austria will be eligible for classification as of 2025. As such, the finest vineyards of the land may soon bear the title of Grosse Lage (Grand Cru) or Erste Lage (Premier Cru).

The legal basis for this official, nationwide classification system is the recently passed Wine Law Collective Decree of 2023. Established vineyards—designated as Rieden by some regional organizations—may first be designated as Erste Lage (Premier Cru). Vineyards so designated will be eligible for Grosse Lage (Grand Cru) status after five years.

  • Additional qualifications for the new designations include the following:
    • Vineyards must be located within a Districtus Austriae Controllatus (DAC) region that has previously defined the three available quality levels of wine (Gebietswein/Regional Wine, Ortswein/Village Wine, and Riedenwein/Single-vineyard Wine)
    • Grapes must be hand-harvested
    • Maximum yields will be set, and are expected to be substantially lower than the general standard for the region
    • Designations must be approved by the National Wine Committee. Approval will require the submission of a detailed application describing the geography, soil, climate, historical significance, value, and potential quality of each vineyard and wine.

The ratings are expected to appear on wine labels beginning in 2025 (at the earliest).

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Bordeaux: Here Come the Hybrids!

10549052 - ripe grapes on grape-vine in autumn in vineyardAugust 25, 2023: The hybrids have officially arrived! As per an announcement via France’s Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité (INAO), a few select disease-resistant hybrid grape varieties will be allowed for use (as accessory varieties) in the wines of the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur AOCs.

The four newly-approved disease-resistant hybrid grapes—which will be making their way into the ground in the next few months—are as follows:

Floréal: Floréal: is an interspecific white hybrid produced via Villaris and a descendant of Muscadinia rotundifolia. The grape tends to be highly aromatic with high acidity and tropical fruit/tree fruit aromas and flavors. Floréal is approved for use in the white and rosé wines of the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur AOCs (with the exception of the white wines of the Bordeax-Haut-Benauge sub-region).

Sauvignac: Sauvignac (Blanc) is an interspecific white hybrid resulting from a descendant of Sauvignon x Riesling X an unknown hybrid (it’s complicated). The grape is known for aromas of tropical fruit and citrus, but it may lack acidity. Sauvignac is approved for use in the white and rosé wines of the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur AOCs (with the exception of the white wines of the Bordeax-Haut-Benauge sub-region).

15283784 - two bunches of gewurtztraminer white wine grapes on the vineSauvignier Gris: Sauvignier Gris is an interspecific, grey (gris)-skinned hybrid created via Seyval Blanc and Zähringer (although there has previously been much confusion and debate regarding its parentage). The grape is known to have thick skins, a good deal of extract, and a somewhat neutral aroma. Sauvignier Gris is approved for use in the white and rosé wines of the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur AOCs (with the exception of the white wines of the Bordeax-Haut-Benauge sub-region).

Vidoc: Vidoc is an interspecific red hybrid produced via a descendant of Muscadinia rotundifolia and  Regent. The grapes are known to produce full-bodied red wines with deep color and spicy aromas. Vidoc is approved for use in the red and rosé wines of the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur AOCs.

The application of such “accessory varieties” (a group that includes all of these newly-approved hybrids) is going to remain minimal for the foreseeable future, as their combined use is currently limited to a maximum of 5% to 10% of the blend in any given wine. In addition, the INAO limits the total plantings of hybrid grape varieties to a maximum of 5% of any given estate’s holding.

Note: Rumor has it that the Médoc and Haut-Médoc AOCs have applied for permitted use of the same hybrid grapes as well as Voltis. We’ll be watching to see when and if this update is approved.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

(News flash) Entre-deux-Mers AOC Sees Red!

Glasses red wineTucked in between Bordeaux’s two famous rivers—the Dordogne and the Garonne—Entre-deux-Mers has been a white-wine-only appellation since its inception in 1937.

However, as of August 25 (2023), there’s been a (big) change, and Entre-deux-Mers is now approved for the production of red wines.

Grape varieties approved for use in the red wines of the Entre-deux-Mers AOC include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec (Cot), Cabernet Franc, and Petite Verdot. Carmenère is considered an “accessory variety” and is limited to a maximum of 30% of the final blend of any specific wine. In addition, the blend must consist of at least two grape varieties.

  • Other regulations concerning Entre-deux-Mers Rouge include the following:
    • Minimum of 12% abv
    • Must undergo malolactic fermentation: maximum of 0.3 g/L malic acid
    • Must be vinified dry: maximum of 3 g/L residual sugar
    • Vines must also be planted at a minimum density of 4,500 vines per hectare (as compared to a minimum of 4,000 vines per hectare for [generic] Bordeaux AOC wines)

It is estimated that there are more than 5,700 hectares/14,000 acres of red grapes planted in the Entre-deux-Mers region that meet the density requirements. Red grapes grown in the remaining vineyards may continue to be made into wine that is bottled under the Bordeaux AOC or Bordeaux Supérieur AOC.

Note: as of the date of this post, the Entre-deux-Mers Haut Benauge sub-appellation is still approved for white wines only.

Welcome to the world, Entre-deux-Mers Rouge!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org