Category Archives: News of The Wine World

Now—as of December 2022—it seems like the grape modifications are marching onward, as three appellations located on Bordeaux’s Left Bank—Médoc AOC, Haut-Médoc AOC and Listrac-Médoc AOC—have embraced the changes as well.

These three appellations are all approved for red wines only (although there are rumors that the Médoc AOC may soon adopt the production of white wines). As such, the classic list of red Bordeaux grapes in these appellations—Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Merlot, Petite Verdot, and  Carmenère—has been supplanted with Arinarnoa, Castets, Marselan, and Touriga Nacional.

As is true with the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur AOCs, the new grapes are allowed to comprise a maximum of 5% of the vineyard area of any estate and no more than 10% of the final blend of any wine. Besides these limitations (and the still-concise list of approved grapes), the wines of all three appellations—Médoc AOC, Haut-Médoc AOC and Listrac-Médoc AOC—have no other rules concerning the number (or amounts) of grapes in the blend.

Stay tuned! More changes are in the works.

Note: As with all such updates, this change will need to wind its way through EU authorization; however, as the government of France has granted their approval, the changes are considered to be in force. If the EU fails to approve the amendment, the regulation will be rescinded.

References/for more information:

• Cahier des Charges Medoc AOC-Dec 2022
• Cahier des Charges Haut-Medoc AOC-Dec 2022
• Cahier des Charges Listrac-Medoc AOC-Dec 2022

The rumors have been circulating for more than a year, and as of December 10 (2022) it’s official: a glass of Voltis (or at least a bit of Voltis in your Champagne) might be in your future.

Back in August of 2021, the Growers’ Association in Champagne (Syndicat Général des Vignerons de la Champagne, or SGV) voted to allow limited plantings of the Voltis grape variety—a fungus-resistant, interspecific hybrid grape variety—for use in the wines of the Champagne AOC. As of November of 2022, the proposal was approved by France’s Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité (INAO), and the newly revised Cahier des Charges was published in the Journal Officiel de la République Française (Official Journal of the French Republic) on December 10, 2022.

Voltis contains DNA from Vitis vinifera, Vitis berlandieri, Vitis rupestris, and Vitis muscadinia. It was created via a collaboration between the INAO (Montpellier, France) and the Julius Kühn Institute (Siebeldingen, Germany). Classified as a fungus resistant PIWI variety (Pi = Pilz [fungus]; wi = widerstandsfähig [resistant]), Voltis is believed to be entirely resistant to powdery mildew and highly resistant to downy mildew.

Voltis is the first interspecific fungus resistant grape to be allowed for use in a French appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC) product, and just the second hybrid grape so allowed—after Baco Blanc (Baco 22A), which is allowed for use in the brandies of the Armagnac AOC. The Voltis grape is part of a group of experimental grapes being reviewed throughout France as d’intérêt à fin d’adaptation (“of interest for the purpose of adaptation”) that are intended to allow for the expansion of organic viticulture (based on reduced need for chemical herbicides and fungicides) and to respond to the challenges of climate change.

Voltis produces medium-sized and moderately compact bunches. The berries are medium-sized, thick-skinned, and somewhat neutral in flavor.

For the time being, Voltis will be allowed in the wines of the Champagne AOC on a ten-year trial basis. Voltis may comprise no more than 5% of the vineyard area of any estate. This update follows on the heels of a similar change recently seen in Bordeaux. 

Cheers to Voltis!

Note: As with all such updates, this change will need to wind its way through EU authorization; however, as the government of France has granted their approval, the changes are considered to be in force. If the EU fails to approve the amendment, the regulation will be rescinded.

References/for more information:

• CDC_Champagne updated with Voltis
• The Voltis Grape on the Catalogue des vignes cultivées en France
• The Voltis Grape (on the PIWI International website)

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

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Gigondas—located just to the north of Vacquerayas and Beames-de-Venise in France’s Southern Rhône Valley—has historically been known for its cathartic waters (Eau Purgative de Montmirail), its dramatic location at the foot of the jagged mountains of the Dentelles de Montmirail, and its rustic wines (red and rosé) based on Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre.

All of this remains true, but as of the 2023 vintage, Gigondas can boast another claim to fame: white wines! The newly approved Gigondas Blanc designation applies to dry white wines based on the Clairette Blanc grape variety.

• The regulations regarding these wines include the following:
  • Principal grape (cépage principal): Clairette Blanc must comprise a minimum of 70% of the blend (many wines may be 100% Clairette)
  • Complementary grapes (cépages complémentaires): Bourboulenc, Clairette Rose, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, blanc and gris, Marsanne, Piquepoul, and/or Roussanne may be included up to a maximum of 30% (combined)
  • Accessory grapes (cépages accessoires): Viognier and/or Ugni Blanc may be included up to a maximum of 5% (combined)
  • Minimum of 12% abv
  • Maximum of 3 g/L (approximately 0.3%) residual sugar

Map of the Gigondas AOC via the INAO (click to enlarge)

White grapes have been grown in Gigondas since antiquity.  However, when the original AOC for the region was granted back in 1971, it applied to red and rosé wines only. This meant that any white wine produced from grapes grown in the area would have to be labeled under a more generic appellation, such as the Côtes du Rhône AOC, Côtes du Rhône-Villages AOC, or the Vin de Pays (IGP) Vaucluse.

It is estimated that the region currently has about 16 ha/40 acres dedicated to white grapes, spread out over about 30 different owners. This is certainly a drop-in-the-bucket compared to the region’s 1,180 hectares/2,900 acres of red grapes. However, it is believed that amount of white wine made in the region may soon overshadow the region’s rosé, which currently accounts for a mere 1% of the total production.

The updated Cahier des Charges for the Gigondas AOC was published in the Journal Officiel de la République Française (Official Journal of the Republic of France) on September 23, 2022. Welcome to the world, Gigondas Blanc!

References/for more information:

• https://www.gigondas-vin.com/en/2022/09/15/the-gigondas-appellation-now-applies-to-white-wines/
• Cahier des Charges Gigondas AOC-September 2022
• Avis relatif à l’ouverture d’une procédure nationale d’opposition pour la demande de modification du cahier des charges relatif à l’appellation d’origine contrôlée « Gigondas » – Légifrance (legifrance.gouv.fr)

Ponte di Tiberio (the Bridge of Tiberius), Rimini

The province of Rimini is tucked into the southern corner of the region of Emilia Romagna, bordering the Adriatic Sea. It is just south of the province of Forlì-Cesena and wraps around the tiny enclave of San Marino (to the south); the rest of the southern border is shared with the region of Marches.

Its capital city—also named Rimini—is recognized as one of the leading beach resorts of all of Italy. The city was founded by the Romans in 268 BCE and is well-known for its numerous Roman and Renaissance monuments (including a Roman amphitheater) and museums (covering artifacts both ancient and modern). The city also features in a number of famous films—which might be expected, as it is the birthplace of Federico Fellini himself.

The province of Rimini has produced wine since the Roman times and continues to produce a range of wine and wine styles—some from locally specific grape varieties rarely seen outside of the area. The large Colli di Rimini DOC was created in 1996 and covers an area along the coastal plain and into the foothills of the Alps.

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NEWS FLASH (for wine students): The name of the Colli di Rimini appellation was recently changed (as of September 2022) to Rimini DOC.

The Rimini DOC is approved for two basic styles of blended wine—bianco (white) and rosso (red)—as well as four specific varietals. These are discussed below:

• Rimini Bianco: This is a dry, light- to medium-bodied white wine produced using a minimum of 30% Trebbiano. Up to 60% may comprise Bombino Bianco or Sangiovese (vinified as a white wine); the remainder (up to 10%) may be any white grape suitable for the region.
• Rimini Rosso: Rimini Rosso is a dry, medium- to full-bodied wine based on (at least 30%) Sangiovese. It may contain up to 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and/or Syrah. Up to 10% of the blend may comprise Alicante, Montepulciano, Petit Verdot, and/or Rebo (a Merlot X Teroldego cross).
• Rimini Cabernet Sauvignon: This is a dry, medium- to full-bodied red wine based on a minimum of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon.  (A super-Emilian, perhaps?)
• Rimini Sangiovese: This is a dry, medium- to medium-plus-bodied red wine based on a minimum of 85% Sangiovese.
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  Rimini Biancame: This is a dry, medium-bodied white wine produced using a minimum of 85% Biancame. Biancame is a rare grape—it is estimated there are only 5,000 acres/2,080 hectares planted worldwide; most of these are found in the area around Marches and Emilia-Romagna. It is sometimes known as Bianchello, and as such is the star of the (quite obscure) Bianchello del Metauro DOC of northern Marches.

• Rimini Rebola: This white wine—which may be produced either as a dry wine or a sweet wine (via the passito/dried grape production process)—is made using a minimum of 85% Grechetto Gentile. Grechetto Gentile is native to Emilia-Romagna, also known as Grechetto di Todi, formerly known as Rebola, and known in certain appellations as Pignoletto.

Alas, unless you are in Italy, it may be difficult to find wine from the Rimini DOC. Sounds like a great excuse for a road trip!

References/for more information:

• Extract from the EU Journal-Name Change Rimini DOC
• Rimini DOC-Name Change-Italy Ministry of Agriculture
• Disciplinaire-Rimini DOC
• Click here for a wine map of Emilia-Romagna, via Federdoc

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

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Wine classification systems are a big deal in Bordeaux. Even beginning wine students are familiar with the area’s famous Classification of 1855, and advanced students can tell tales of the Crus Classés of Graves (1953), the Cru Artisan (2002), and the Cru Bourgeois (2020).

And then there is the Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé, established in 1954 and positioned to be more modern and democratic, subject to reclassification every ten years. The ranking has, however, been met with a great deal of controversy in recent years, beginning with rumblings that the system has become overly complex and politicized. This was followed by a dizzying plethora of court cases and legal challenges that nearly annulled the classifications of 2006 and 2012, and by the time the 2020s rolled around, many people were wondering how the system would even survive.

The past few years have brought about even more controversy as three of the region’s top-rated Châteaux—Château Angélus, Château Ausone, and Château Cheval-Blanc—opted out of the system and declined to submit applications for the 2022 rankings.

As such, there has been much debate about the future of the Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé. However, now we know: just this morning (September 8, 2022), France’s Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité (INAO) has spoken, and the new classification has been released. Two properties—Château Figeac and Château Pavie—earned the coveted top ranking and are now recognized as Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé A. Note: Château Pavie thus retained its “A” level designation from the previous classifications, and Château Figeac was promoted from the “B” classification it had previously earned.

An additional twelve properties earned the designation of Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé B, while another 71 are hereby recognized as Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé. Click here for a complete listing of the new rankings, as well as further information from the INAO.

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Seven Sisters Country Park, East Sussex

Effective today (July 5, 2022), the UK has recognized its first post-Brexit protected designation of origin (PDO) for wine—the Sussex PDO. This designation is approved by the UK’s Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs (DEFRA) and applies to still and sparkling wine made in the area historically known as Sussex, referring to the present-day counties of East Sussex and West Sussex.

East Sussex and West Sussex are located in the far southeast of England, along the English Channel coast. They are bordered (to the north, east, and west) by the counties of Kent, Surrey, and Westchester. The area—which has a long history of grape and wine production—is known for its cool climate, high degree of sunshine (at 1,750 hours of sunshine a year, a bit higher than most of England) and chalk soils.

Sussex PDO sparkling wine may be either white or rosé and must be made using the traditional method of sparkling wine production. The wines must be “made principally” using Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. Arbane, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Petite Meslier, and Pinot Noir Précoce. Varying levels of sweetness are allowed.

• Other requirements for use of the Sussex Sparkling Wine PDO include the following:
  • No less than 3.5 atm of pressure
  • Minimum 11% abv
  • Minimum of 12 months aging (in the bottle) on the lees; 15 months of total bottle aging before release
  • Blanc de Blancs must contain a minimum of 90% Chardonnay
  • Blanc de Noirs must contain a minimum of 90% Pinot Noir and/or Pinot Meunier
  • Wine must be approved by a tasting panel

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The range of still wines produced under the Sussex PDO are described as “crisp dry whites to fruity red wines and elegant rosé.”  A substantial list of grapes is allowed for use in still wines produced using the Sussex PDO (there are 24, to be exact). These include the following: Acolon, Auxerrois, Bacchus, Chardonnay, Dornfelder, Gamay, Huxelrebe, Muller-Thurgau, Orion, Ortega, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir, Pinot Noir Précoce, Regent, Regner, Reichensteiner, Riesling, Rondo, Roter Veltliner, Schonburger, Siegerrebe, and Solaris.

• Other requirements for still wines produced under the Sussex PDO include the following:
  • Minimum 10% abv
  • Wine must be approved by a tasting panel

Leading wine estates in the area include Nyetimber, Rathfinney Estate, Bolney Wine Estate, and Artelium.

Note: This designation pertains to products distributed within the UK and is not (at this time) recognized by the EU. The UK retains its previously approved, EU-designated appellations of origin including English Wine PDO, Welsh Wine PDO, and Scotch Whisky GI.

References/for more information:

• Sussex Wine PDO – Product Specification – UK Scheme
• Sussex – GOV.UK (www.gov.uk)

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

On June 3 (2022) the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States announced the approval of the Upper Lake Valley American Viticultural Area (AVA). The Upper Lake Valley AVA represents the 8^th AVA located in Lake County, California.

The newly minted AVA—situated on the north shore of Clear Lake—covers a total of 17, 360 acres and is located entirely within the existing Clear Lake AVA. However, the area of the previously existing Clear Lake AVA was extended (along the northwest corner) in order to accommodate the new appellation within its boundaries.

• According to the original petition—written by Terry Dereniuk and originally submitted in 2018 on behalf of the Growers of Upper Lake County—the distinguishing features of the Upper Lake Valley AVA include its hydrogeology, soils, and climate, as described below.
  • Hydrogeology: The area of the Upper Lake Valley AVA covers a series of valleys running north-northwesterly from the shores of Clear Lake. These valleys (and the surrounding hillsides) sit at elevations of 1,330 feet to 1,480 feet above sea level; vineyards are currently planted along the valley floors and up into the hillsides—as high as 1,450 feet asl. The area—a transitional region between the Mendocino National Forest and the Clear Lake Basin—has a uniquely high water table (the boundary between the surface and the area where groundwater saturates the soil). This allows for a high degree of dry farming.
  • Soils: The area contains a wide range of soil types, and varies decidedly between the deep, level soils of the valley floors; the thin, well-drained soils on the hillsides; and the marshy areas closest to the lake. Much of the bedrock is composed of shale and sandstone; topsoils include combinations of silt, gravel, clay, and loam.
  • Climate:  The climate of the Upper Lake Valley AVA is slightly cooler than the surrounding areas. The median growing degree days (GDD) in the new AVA ranges from a low of 2,809 to a high of 3,343; in other areas of the Clear Lake AVA, the median high climbs as high as 3,811. The Upper Lake Valley AVA is thus classified as heat summation Region III—Region I is the coolest and Region V is the warmest—according to the often-cited Winkler Scale.

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

At this time, there are sixteen commercial vineyards, just over 300 acres planted to vine, and one winery located withing the Upper Lake Valley AVA. While a range of grapes—including Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel—are grown in the area, Sauvignon Blanc is the leading variety.

Note: June 3 was a busy day for the TTB, which saw the approval of four new AVAs, including Upper Lake Valley. The other three include Rocky Reach (WA), Paulsell Valley (CA), and Mount Pisgah-Polk County (OR). When all four of these AVAs are brought into force—on July 5, 2022—the total number of AVAs in the United States will be 266; of these, 146 will be in California.

Welcome to the world, Upper Lake Valley AVA!

References/for more information:

• Federal Register-June 3 2022-Establishment of the Upper Lake Valley AVA
• Upper Lake Valley AVA Petition
• Media Kit | Lake County Winegrape Commission

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org