Dispatch from Rimini (and the Rimini DOC)

Ponte di Tiberio (the Bridge of Tiberius), Rimini

Ponte di Tiberio (the Bridge of Tiberius), Rimini

The province of Rimini is tucked into the southern corner of the region of Emilia Romagna, bordering the Adriatic Sea. It is just south of the province of Forlì-Cesena and wraps around the tiny enclave of San Marino (to the south); the rest of the southern border is shared with the region of Marches.

Its capital city—also named Rimini—is recognized as one of the leading beach resorts of all of Italy. The city was founded by the Romans in 268 BCE and is well-known for its numerous Roman and Renaissance monuments (including a Roman amphitheater) and museums (covering artifacts both ancient and modern). The city also features in a number of famous films—which might be expected, as it is the birthplace of Federico Fellini himself.

The province of Rimini has produced wine since the Roman times and continues to produce a range of wine and wine styles—some from locally specific grape varieties rarely seen outside of the area. The large Colli di Rimini DOC was created in 1996 and covers an area along the coastal plain and into the foothills of the Alps.

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NEWS FLASH (for wine students): The name of the Colli di Rimini appellation was recently changed (as of September 2022) to Rimini DOC.

The Rimini DOC is approved for two basic styles of blended wine—bianco (white) and rosso (red)—as well as four specific varietals. These are discussed below:

  • Rimini Bianco: This is a dry, light- to medium-bodied white wine produced using a minimum of 30% Trebbiano. Up to 60% may comprise Bombino Bianco or Sangiovese (vinified as a white wine); the remainder (up to 10%) may be any white grape suitable for the region.
  • Rimini Rosso: Rimini Rosso is a dry, medium- to full-bodied wine based on (at least 30%) Sangiovese. It may contain up to 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and/or Syrah. Up to 10% of the blend may comprise Alicante, Montepulciano, Petit Verdot, and/or Rebo (a Merlot X Teroldego cross).
  • Rimini Cabernet Sauvignon: This is a dry, medium- to full-bodied red wine based on a minimum of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon.  (A super-Emilian, perhaps?)
  • Rimini Sangiovese: This is a dry, medium- to medium-plus-bodied red wine based on a minimum of 85% Sangiovese.
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    Rimini Biancame: This is a dry, medium-bodied white wine produced using a minimum of 85% Biancame. Biancame is a rare grape—it is estimated there are only 5,000 acres/2,080 hectares planted worldwide; most of these are found in the area around Marches and Emilia-Romagna. It is sometimes known as Bianchello, and as such is the star of the (quite obscure) Bianchello del Metauro DOC of northern Marches.

  • Rimini Rebola: This white wine—which may be produced either as a dry wine or a sweet wine (via the passito/dried grape production process)—is made using a minimum of 85% Grechetto Gentile. Grechetto Gentile is native to Emilia-Romagna, also known as Grechetto di Todi, formerly known as Rebola, and known in certain appellations as Pignoletto.

Alas, unless you are in Italy, it may be difficult to find wine from the Rimini DOC. Sounds like a great excuse for a road trip!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

The INAO has Spoken: the 2022 Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé

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Wine classification systems are a big deal in Bordeaux. Even beginning wine students are familiar with the area’s famous Classification of 1855, and advanced students can tell tales of the Crus Classés of Graves (1953), the Cru Artisan (2002), and the Cru Bourgeois (2020).

And then there is the Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé, established in 1954 and positioned to be more modern and democratic, subject to reclassification every ten years. The ranking has, however, been met with a great deal of controversy in recent years, beginning with rumblings that the system has become overly complex and politicized. This was followed by a dizzying plethora of court cases and legal challenges that nearly annulled the classifications of 2006 and 2012, and by the time the 2020s rolled around, many people were wondering how the system would even survive.

The past few years have brought about even more controversy as three of the region’s top-rated Châteaux—Château Angélus, Château Ausone, and Château Cheval-Blanc—opted out of the system and declined to submit applications for the 2022 rankings.

As such, there has been much debate about the future of the Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé. However, now we know: just this morning (September 8, 2022), France’s Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité (INAO) has spoken, and the new classification has been released. Two properties—Château Figeac and Château Pavie—earned the coveted top ranking and are now recognized as Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé A. Note: Château Pavie thus retained its “A” level designation from the previous classifications, and Château Figeac was promoted from the “B” classification it had previously earned.

An additional twelve properties earned the designation of Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé B, while another 71 are hereby recognized as Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé. Click here for a complete listing of the new rankings, as well as further information from the INAO.

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Welcome to the World, Gabilan Mountains AVA!

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer (click to enlarge)

On August 15 (2022), the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States announced the approval of the Gabilan Mountains American Viticultural Area (AVA). The new AVA is located entirely within the existing Central Coast AVA, slightly inland from the town of Salinas—and covering portions of Monterey and San Benito Counties.

The Gabilan Mountains AVA surrounds the existing Mt. Harlan and Chalone AVAs and is located adjacent/just slightly west of the San Benito, Paicines, Cienega Valley, and Lime Kiln Valley AVAs. The status of these AVAs will not change.

According to the original petition—written by Parker Allen of Coastview Vineyards and originally submitted in 2018—the distinguishing features of the Gabilan Mountains AVA include its elevation, climate, and soils—as described below.

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    Elevation: The Gabilan Mountains AVA is located in a mountainous region that places it at a significantly higher elevation than the surrounding areas. The average elevation within the AVA is 2,370 feet—above the heavy fog and marine layer that often affects other regions in the vicinity.

  • Climate: The Gabilan Mountains AVA has an overall cool climate. However, as previously mentioned, the Gabilan Mountains AVA has significantly less fog and cloud cover—and therefore more sunshine—than the surrounding areas. It also receives more rainfall by comparison; the area within the Gabilan Mountains AVA receives an average of 17.24 inches of rain per year (with over 12 of these received during the fall and winter months). By contrast, the area to the north receives 14.19 inches per year; the area just to the south receives just over 12 inches annually.
  • Soils: The soils of the Gabilan Mountains AVA are described as moderately coarse in texture, rich in calcium due to high limestone content, and supported by granite bedrock. These quick-draining soils are renowned for their ability to stress the vines during the growing season, resulting in thick-skinned, flavorful grapes. By contrast, the surrounding areas contain more find-to-medium textured alluvial soils, the result of past floods.
Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer (click to enlarge)

When the Gabilan Mountains AVA is brought into force—on September 14, 2022—the total number of AVAs in the United States will be 267; of these, 147 will be in California.

Welcome to the world, Gabilan Mountains AVA!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Türkiye to Visit, Turkey to Eat

Map TurkeyThe government of Turkey (the country) has officially changed the English name of the country to Türkiye (tur-key-YAY), the spelling and pronunciation used in the Turkish language. As of June (2022), the United Nations has approved the change and mapmakers everywhere are sure to follow suit.

Wine lovers recognize Türkiye as a transcontinental Eurasian country located in the Caucasus Region. Situated just to the south/southwest of Georgia, Türkiye is among the oldest wine-producing regions of the world.

Türkiye is home to over 600 Indigenous vinifera varieties; of these, at least 60—including Yapıncak (white), Papazkarası (red), Öküzgözü (red), Boğazkere (red), and Çalkarası (red)—are used for commercial wine production. International varieties—to include Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon—are also grown.

Istanbul at Sunset

Istanbul at Sunset

According to the OIV, as of 2018, the country contained 448,000 hectares of vines. The country is consistently among the top ten countries in the world in terms of vineyard acreage. However, Türkiye is also one of the leading global producers of table grapes and raisins—so only a portion of the vineyard crop is used for wine.

Students of distilled spirits will recognize Raki—an anise-flavored spirit as the national drink of Türkiye. When mixed with ice or water, raki turns milky white and due to this color, its sturdy levels of alcohol—many versions are 45% to 50% abv—and a plethora of local legends, raki is often referred to as lion’s milk (aslan sütü). Raki was originally produced from the pomace left over from winemaking. However, when pomace was in short supply, spirits were imported and processed with aniseed. Today, high-quality raki is produced from grapes—primarily of the Sultana and Razaki varieties, both of which are primarily table grapes and likely native to the country.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Welcome to the World, Sussex PDO!

Seven Sisters Country Park, East Sussex

Seven Sisters Country Park, East Sussex

Effective today (July 5, 2022), the UK has recognized its first post-Brexit protected designation of origin (PDO) for wine—the Sussex PDO. This designation is approved by the UK’s Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs (DEFRA) and applies to still and sparkling wine made in the area historically known as Sussex, referring to the present-day counties of East Sussex and West Sussex.

East Sussex and West Sussex are located in the far southeast of England, along the English Channel coast. They are bordered (to the north, east, and west) by the counties of Kent, Surrey, and Westchester. The area—which has a long history of grape and wine production—is known for its cool climate, high degree of sunshine (at 1,750 hours of sunshine a year, a bit higher than most of England) and chalk soils.

Sussex PDO sparkling wine may be either white or rosé and must be made using the traditional method of sparkling wine production. The wines must be “made principally” using Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. Arbane, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Petite Meslier, and Pinot Noir Précoce. Varying levels of sweetness are allowed.

  • Other requirements for use of the Sussex Sparkling Wine PDO include the following:
    • No less than 3.5 atm of pressure
    • Minimum 11% abv
    • Minimum of 12 months aging (in the bottle) on the lees; 15 months of total bottle aging before release
    • Blanc de Blancs must contain a minimum of 90% Chardonnay
    • Blanc de Noirs must contain a minimum of 90% Pinot Noir and/or Pinot Meunier
    • Wine must be approved by a tasting panel
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The range of still wines produced under the Sussex PDO are described as “crisp dry whites to fruity red wines and elegant rosé.”  A substantial list of grapes is allowed for use in still wines produced using the Sussex PDO (there are 24, to be exact). These include the following: Acolon, Auxerrois, Bacchus, Chardonnay, Dornfelder, Gamay, Huxelrebe, Muller-Thurgau, Orion, Ortega, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir, Pinot Noir Précoce, Regent, Regner, Reichensteiner, Riesling, Rondo, Roter Veltliner, Schonburger, Siegerrebe, and Solaris.

  • Other requirements for still wines produced under the Sussex PDO include the following:
    • Minimum 10% abv
    • Wine must be approved by a tasting panel

Leading wine estates in the area include Nyetimber, Rathfinney Estate, Bolney Wine Estate, and Artelium.

Note: This designation pertains to products distributed within the UK and is not (at this time) recognized by the EU. The UK retains its previously approved, EU-designated appellations of origin including English Wine PDO, Welsh Wine PDO, and Scotch Whisky GI.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

 

Okanagan’s Eleven (six new appellations for British Columbia)

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Big news out of British Columbia! Six new sub-geographical indications (sub-GIs) have recently been approved for the Okanagan Valley GI.

The Okanagan Valley—a long, narrow, and dry valley located inland of the Coast Mountain Range and tucked between the Cascades and the Columbia Mountains—is home to the great majority of British Columbia’s vines. Overall, the valley’s continental climate is somewhat assuaged by the northerly latitude and the presence of Lake Okanagan. However, as evidenced by the recent approval of these new subregions, the large Okanagan Valley is home to several diverse soil types and climate conditions—and supports the production of a wide range of wine types and styles.

The six new sub-appellations are as follows:

East Kelowna Slopes: Covers a series of hillsides overlooking Mission Creek in the central area of the Okanagan Valley. A cool climate area known for premium sparkling wine; the leading grape varieties include Pinot Noir, Riesling, Chardonnay, and Pinot Gris. At this time, about 203 hectares/501 acres are planted to vine. Read the Technical Report for the East Kelowna Slopes Sub-GI here (includes detailed maps of the area).

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Lake Country: Situated near the northern edge of the Okanagan Valley, the Lake Country GI covers the west-facing slopes and benches overlooking a section of the eastern shore of Okanagan Lake. This GI is currently planted to about 100 hectares/247 acres of vines and is known for rich, flavorful Pinot Noir and white varietals. Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling, and Gewurztraminer are the leading varieties. Read the Technical Report for the Lake Country Sub-GI here (includes detailed maps of the area).

South Kelowna Slopes: This small area covers a series of hillsides and slopes on the eastern shore of Okanagan Lake. The region has a unique concentration of mixed glacial sediment (soils). The area currently contains 131 hectares/324 acres of commercial vineyards; leading grape varieties include Pinot Noir, Gamay, Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Gewurztraminer. Read the Technical Report for the South Kelowna Slopes Sub-GI here (includes detailed maps of the area).

Summerland Bench: This appellation covers the foothills and terraces located to the east and south of Giant’s Head Mountain (on the west shores of Okanagan Lake). The area is largely planted to fruit orchards (apples and cherries), with approximately 60 hectares/148 acres of vines. White grapes (primarily Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer) dominate the plantings; small plots of Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Syrah are found as well. Read the Technical Report for the Summerland Bench Sub-GI here (includes detailed maps of the area).

Map of the Okanagan Valley GI; copyright Wine Growers British Columbia

Map of the Okanagan Valley GI; copyright Wine Growers British Columbia (click to enlarge)

Summerland Lakefront: This appellation covers a 12-kilometer (7.5-mile) stretch of land hugging the western shore of Okanagan Lake, near the community of Summerland. The area is largely planted to white grape varieties and currently boasts just over 65 hectares/160 acres of vines. Gewurztraminer and Pinot Gris are the leading varieties; lesser amounts of Pinot Noir and Merlot are grown as well. Read the Technical Report for the Summerland Lakefront Sub-GI here (includes detailed maps of the area).

Summerland Valleys: This appellation contains some of the highest-elevation vineyards in the Okanagan Valley, linking two separate valleys via a stretch of land that runs across Cartwright Mountain. Like the Summerland Bench and Summerland Lakefront GIs, this area is situated around and near the community of Summerland, located on the western shores of Okanagan Lake. There are currently 35 hectares/85 acres of vines planted in the region. Chardonnay is the leading variety. Read the Technical Report for the Summerland Valleys Sub-GI here (includes detailed maps of the area).

Okanagan’s Eleven: These six new sub-appellations join the five already in place—Golden Mile Bench, Golden Mile Slopes, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Falls, and Skaha Bench—for a total of 11.

Okanagan’s Twelve? Hang on to your flashcards…yet another Sub-GI has been proposed. Click here to read the June 2022 Proposal for the Black Sage Bench Sub-GI

References/for more information:  

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

 

Welcome to the World, Upper Lake Valley AVA!

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

On June 3 (2022) the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States announced the approval of the Upper Lake Valley American Viticultural Area (AVA). The Upper Lake Valley AVA represents the 8th AVA located in Lake County, California.

The newly minted AVA—situated on the north shore of Clear Lake—covers a total of 17, 360 acres and is located entirely within the existing Clear Lake AVA. However, the area of the previously existing Clear Lake AVA was extended (along the northwest corner) in order to accommodate the new appellation within its boundaries.

  • According to the original petition—written by Terry Dereniuk and originally submitted in 2018 on behalf of the Growers of Upper Lake County—the distinguishing features of the Upper Lake Valley AVA include its hydrogeology, soils, and climate, as described below.
    • Hydrogeology: The area of the Upper Lake Valley AVA covers a series of valleys running north-northwesterly from the shores of Clear Lake. These valleys (and the surrounding hillsides) sit at elevations of 1,330 feet to 1,480 feet above sea level; vineyards are currently planted along the valley floors and up into the hillsides—as high as 1,450 feet asl. The area—a transitional region between the Mendocino National Forest and the Clear Lake Basin—has a uniquely high water table (the boundary between the surface and the area where groundwater saturates the soil). This allows for a high degree of dry farming.
    • Soils: The area contains a wide range of soil types, and varies decidedly between the deep, level soils of the valley floors; the thin, well-drained soils on the hillsides; and the marshy areas closest to the lake. Much of the bedrock is composed of shale and sandstone; topsoils include combinations of silt, gravel, clay, and loam.
    • Climate:  The climate of the Upper Lake Valley AVA is slightly cooler than the surrounding areas. The median growing degree days (GDD) in the new AVA ranges from a low of 2,809 to a high of 3,343; in other areas of the Clear Lake AVA, the median high climbs as high as 3,811. The Upper Lake Valley AVA is thus classified as heat summation Region III—Region I is the coolest and Region V is the warmest—according to the often-cited Winkler Scale.
Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

At this time, there are sixteen commercial vineyards, just over 300 acres planted to vine, and one winery located withing the Upper Lake Valley AVA. While a range of grapes—including Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel—are grown in the area, Sauvignon Blanc is the leading variety.

Note: June 3 was a busy day for the TTB, which saw the approval of four new AVAs, including Upper Lake Valley. The other three include Rocky Reach (WA), Paulsell Valley (CA), and Mount Pisgah-Polk County (OR). When all four of these AVAs are brought into force—on July 5, 2022—the total number of AVAs in the United States will be 266; of these, 146 will be in California.

Welcome to the world, Upper Lake Valley AVA!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

California Earns another: the Paulsell Valley AVA!

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

On June 3 (2022) the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States announced the approval of the Paulsell Valley American Viticultural Area (AVA), located in Stanislaus County, California.

The new AVA is located in the San Joaquin Valley (Central Valley), somewhat between the town of Knights Ferry and the Modesto Reservoir. The Paulsell Valley AVA is situated to the west of the Sierra Foothills AVA and to the south of the Lodi AVA; it does not, however, overlap with any previously established viticultural area. The name Paulsell refers to a nearby unincorporated community—sometimes known as Old Paulsell Town—and the valley that runs through it, carved by Dry Creek

  • According to the original petition—originally submitted in 2018 by Patrick L. Shabram on behalf of the grape growers in the area—the distinguishing features of the Paulsell Valley AVA include its topography, soils, and climate, as described below.
    • Topography: The landscape within the new AVA consists mainly of rolling hills interspersed with water-carved channels and steep, isolated hills known as intermounds. This type of landscape is known as mound-intermound relief and is unique to the area (as compared with the surrounding landscape). Elevations in the Paulsell AVA range from 140 to 612 feet asl. The numerous slopes allow for excellent drainage, while the isolated patches of higher elevation (located towards the top of the intermounds) allow for long hours of sun exposure.
    • Soils: The soils of the Paulsell Valley AVA consist mainly of volcanic tuff (a sedimentary soil created via the compaction of volcanic ash and bits of igneous rock) and alluvial deposits. In some spots, the topsoil contains cobbles—small rocks typically defined as being 2.5 to 10 inches in diameter, sometimes referred to as cobblestones—remnants of significant flooding.
    • Climate: The climate of the Paulsell Valley AVA is slightly warmer than the areas that surround it, and slightly drier than the area within the Sierra Foothills AVA. The (average) temperature within the new AVA is well above 4100 growing degrees days (GDD); by any accounts this is a warm, dry, inland area well-suited to the cultivation of hardy red grapes.
Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

The Paulsell Valley AVA—covering a total area of 34,155 acres—contains three commercial vineyards and approximately 826 acres planted to vine (with more planned for the future). The leading grape varieties include Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, and Petite Sirah.

Note: June 3 was a busy day for the TTB, which saw the approval of four new AVAs, including Paulsell Valley. The other three include Rocky Reach (WA), Upper Lake Valley (CA), and Mount Pisgah-Polk County (OR). When all four of these AVAs are brought into force—on July 5, 2022—the total number of AVAs in the United States will be 266; of these, 146 will be in California.

Welcome to the world, Paulsell Valley AVA!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Welcome to the world, Mount Pisgah-Polk County AVA!

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

On June 3 (2022) the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States announced the approval of the Mount Pisgah-Polk County American Viticultural Area (AVA), located in Oregon. The newly minted AVA is located entirely within the existing Willamette Valley AVA and represents the 23rd AVA located in Oregon. With the approval of the new AVA, the Willamette Valley AVA now has 11 sub-appellations.

The Mount Pisgah-Polk County AVA covers a total of 5,850 acres surrounding the 835-foot summit of Mount Pisgah, located about 15 miles west of Salem (and just south of the town of Dallas, Oregon).

  • According to the petition to establish the appellation—originally submitted in 2018—the distinguishing features of the Mount Pisgah-Polk County AVA include its topography, climate, and soils, as described below.
    • Topography: The new AVA is located within a chain of small hills in the Willamette Valley area. Elevations range from 260 feet to 835 feet asl (at the peak of Mount Pisgah); the areas surrounding the Mount Pisgah-Polk County AVA are all at lower elevations.
    • Climate: The Mount Pisgah-Polk County AVA is somewhat cooler than the surrounding valley floor. The average annual growing degree days (GDD) for Mount Pisgah total 2,543 GDD; the surrounding areas total 2,661 GDD (in the tow of McMinnville, to the south) and 2,903 GD (in the town of Salem, to the east).
    • Soils: Like much of the surrounding area, the dominant soil of the Mount Pisgah-Polk County AVA is sedimentary in nature (to include sandstone and siltstone). While the remainder of the Willamette Valley AVA has a large percentage of soils derived from the Missoula Floods, in the new AVA only 2.1% of the area is so affected. Rather, due to the higher elevation of the area, the soils of the Mount Pisgah-Polk County AVA contain a high percentage of volcanic rocks that were part of an ancient seabed. These rocks are among the oldest rocks within the Willamette Valley, and the Mount Pisgah area is the only spot in the Willamette Valley that combines sedimentary soils with such ancient parent material.
Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

At the time of the original petition, there were 10 commercial vineyards (planted to a total of 531 acres of vines) and 2 wineries—Amelie Robert Estate and Ilahe Vineyards—located within the area of the Mount Pisgah-Polk Count AVA. Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay are the leading grape varieties.

Note: The official name of the new AVA reads as follows: Mount Pisgah, Polk County, Oregon AVA. The name includes the name of the county as there are at least three locations in Oregon named Mount Pisgah. As other states also have areas named Mount Pisgah, the term Oregon is also part of the official name of the AVA.

Welcome to the world, Mount Pisgah-Polk County AVA!

On another note: June 3 was a busy day for the TTB, which saw the approval of four new AVAs, including Mount Pisgah. The other three include Rocky Reach (WA), Upper Lake Valley (CA), and Paulsell Valley (CA). When all four of these AVAs are brought into force—on July 5, 2022—the total number of AVAs in the United States will be 266.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Welcome to the World, Rocky Reach AVA!

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

On June 3 (2022) the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States announced the approval of the Rocky Reach American Viticultural Area (AVA)., located in portions of Chelan and Douglas Counties in Washington State. The newly minted AVA is located entirely within the existing Columbia Valley AVA and represents the 20th AVA located in Washington State.

The Rocky Reach AVA covers a long, narrow strip of land that straddles a portion of the Columbia River. This stretch of the Columbia River consists of a deep canyon between two sets of rolling hills (the foothills of the Cascade Mountains to the west and Badger Mountain to the east). The new AVA is situated between the Lake Chelan AVA (located a few miles to the north) and the Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley AVA (located a few miles to the southeast).

  • According to the petition to establish the appellation—originally submitted in 2018 by Kevin Pogue PhD, Professor of Geology at Whitman College—the distinguishing features of the Rocky Reach AVA include its topography, soils, and climate, as described below.
    • Topography: The area within the Rocky Reach AVA consists of a deep canyon eroded over time by the rapids of the Columbia River. The prime vineyard areas are located along flat-topped terraces that line either side of the river.
    • Soils: Loess (windblown sand and silt) is the leading soil type of the Rocky Reach AVA and other parts of the Columbia Valley. However, unlike the surrounding areas, the soils in the Rocky Reach AVA are topped with gravel and cobblestones. The bedrock of the region is also unique—in the Rocky Reach and Lake Chelan AVAs, the bedrock is silica-rich sedimentary rock. This type of bedrock soil is unique, as most of the surrounding vineyard areas are composed of basalt bedrock.
    • Climate: The deep canyon of the Rocky Reach AVA sits at an elevation that is considerably lower than the surrounding areas. As such, the area within the AVA is significantly warmer, resulting in a longer growing season than the surrounding areas.
Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

At the time of the proposal, there were 7 commercial vineyards within the area defined by the Rocky Reach AVA with a total of 117 acres planted to vine. Cabernet Sauvignon is the leading grape variety.

The name Rocky Reach has been applied to this section of the Columbia River since the 1800s. In those days, steamboat captains used the term to describe the 8-mile-an-hour rapids that formed certain times of the year. Successful navigation of the rocky reach required staying within the deepest channel of the river to avoid the rocks just beneath the surface of the water.

Note: June 3 was a busy day for the TTB, which saw the approval of four new AVAs, including Rocky Reach. The other three include Upper Lake Valley (Lake County, CA), Mount Pisgah (Polk Country, OR), and Paulsell Valley (Stanislaus County, CA).  When all four of these AVAs are brought into force—on July 5, 2022—the total number of AVAs in the United States will be 266.

Welcome to the world, Rocky Reach AVA!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org