A Walk on the Wild Side: A New Look at Lambrusco by Alan Tardi, CSW

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Today we have a guest post from Alan Tardi, CSW. Alan gives us a deep dive in the real Lambrusco as well as a preview of his upcoming session—A Walk on the Wild Side: A New Look at Lambrusco—to be presented at the 46th Annual Conference of the Society of Wine Educators. The conference is scheduled for August 10-11 in Coachella Valley (Indian Wells, CA).  

If you think Lambrusco is nothing more than a banal, reddish, cloyingly sweet bubbly, it’s time to taste again.                                             

It happened over and over again: The first wines of a given appellation to be exported to America from post-World War II Italy were the most commercial, inexpensive, readily accessible ones possible. Some of them became quite popular, though it was often more about an appealing name or jingle or the color or shape of the bottle than it was about the wine.

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In the 1960s and ‘70s, Americans started to become more familiar with and attracted to wine. At about the same time, a handful or two of visionary Italian wine producers began focusing on attaining a high-quality level of production and capturing the essence of their particular grape varieties and growing areas.

There are numerous examples of this but one of the best is Tuscany, specifically Chianti.

Prior to this time, the majority of consumers looked (often fondly) upon Chianti as a cheap, rustic wine in a straw-covered flask sitting on a checkered tablecloth next to a bowl of spaghetti and meatballs. Then it got a makeover, shed its straw, slimmed down into a Bordeaux-like cylinder and became super, sexy and more expensive. Many other wines underwent a similar transformation (think Barolo, Valpolicella, Friuli whites, Southern reds) and subsequently garnered respect and appreciation in the marketplace.

This has not happened to Lambrusco. But it should and I have no doubt that it will. Here’s why:

  • Unique Terroir:
    • Lambrusco is a terroir-driven wine. It grows in a very limited part of North-Central Italy, specifically a small area in the center of Emilia with a tiny adjacent zone just across the Lombardy border.
    • The area where Lambrusco grows is quite unusual. While most grapevines perform best at higher altitudes up on steep slopes, Lambrusco prefers the flat plains or low hills of the Po River valley.
  • Ancient Origin:
    • Lambrusco is considered to be one of (if not the) oldest native Italian grape varieties, with its origin dating back to sometime around the Middle Bronze Age (c 1700 BC).
    • It is thought to have originated as a wild vine that was domesticated by a mysterious group of people who inhabited the western part of the Po valley around what is now the city of Modena.
  • Family of Grapes:
    • In fact, Lambrusco is not a grape variety but a family of grapevines that are closely related to one another but genetically distinct.
    • Thus, while they do have some basic characteristics in common, each one has its own distinct personality, and each has its own home within the larger perimeter of the defined growing area.
  • Variations on a Theme: In addition to the numerus subvarieties, there are many different production options:
    • Lambrusco may be made from one type of Lambrusco grape or blended with others, depending on appellation regulations.
    • There are a number of specific Lambrusco appellations as well as other generic regional appellations that include a Lambrusco-based wine.
    • Lambrusco runs the full gambit of sugar, from brut nature (no added sugar) to sweet.
    • It can be made frizzante (lightly fizzy) or full bubbly (spumante), using the Traditional Method (in bottle with disgorgement), Ancestral Method (in bottle without disgorgement) or Martinotti Method (tank).
    • Time on lees can range anywhere from days to years. And color ranges from pale pink to deep purple.
  • Food Friendly:
    • Emilia is considered to have one of the finest regional cuisines in Italy. The food is rich and full-flavored, and Lambrusco — whether fizzy or foamy, delicately pale and tart or dark, earthy, and tannic — provides the perfect accompaniment.
    • These same basic characteristics also make it an ideal partner for many other types of food, from pizza to barbeque, burgers, spicy Asian or Indian.
  • User Friendly: Lambrusco is
    • versatile
    • bubbly
    • relatively low in alcohol
    • very affordable
    • fun and enjoyable; sometimes simple and rustic, other times elegant or ethereal
    • undervalued and misunderstood (except by those in the know)
  • Decidedly Distinctive:
    • There is nothing quite like Lambrusco. It has its own unique flavor profile — earthy yet elegant, with a slightly wild streak — regardless of which guise it is wearing.
    • It is red (in various hues) and bubbly (in different levels of intensity) and has tannin. It is, one could say, something of an appealing anomaly.
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Alan’s session—A Walk on the Wild Side: A New Look at Lambrusco—is scheduled for Wednesday, August 10th at 8:45 am as part the 46th Annual Conference of the Society of Wine Educators, to be held August 10-11 in Coachella Valley (Indian Wells, CA). Click here to read about the extraordinary wines—as well as a few other treats that will be tasted as part of Alan’s session.

About the speaker: Alan Tardi first got interested in wine while working as a cook and chef in some of New York City’s finest restaurants and this interest blossomed into a passion when he opened his own restaurant in Manhattan in 2001. While still working long hours in his restaurant, Alan became a frequent panel taster at Wine and Spirits Magazine’s New York office and began writing for the magazine. Over time he went on to write for numerous other publications including The New York Times, Sommelier Journal, Food Arts and Wine Spectator. In 2003 Alan moved to the village of Castiglione Falletto in Piemonte, Italy where he worked extensively in the surrounding vineyards and wineries and managed the town’s Cantina Comunale. His first book “Romancing the Vine: Life, Love and Transformation in the Vineyards of Barolo” won a James Beard Award for Best Wine Book of 2006. His second book “Champagne, Uncorked: The House of Krug and Timeless Allure of the World’s Most Celebrated Drink” (2016) received a Gourmand Best in the World Award. Alan holds a CSW from the Society of Wine Educators, IWS and Champagne Master certificates from the Wine Scholar Guild and is currently pursuing the WSET level 4 Diploma.

 

News Flash! Format Update regarding the CWE Exam (Tasting Portion)

News Flash CWE Tasting UpdateIn today’s world, identifying a wine in a blind tasting—or, in the context of SWE’s Certified Wine Educator (CWE) exam, a semi-blind tasting—seems to be losing relevance as an accurate gauge of the skillset involved in the sensory evaluation of wine.

As such, we have decided to revise the format of the varietal/appellation identification portion of the CWE exam and rename it as simply the CWE Tasting Exam.

The reality is this: we are seeing definitive changes in what was once considered to be the benchmark or typical style in many iconic wines. Good examples of this shift-in-progress include Rioja, Oregon Pinot Noir, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, Sancerre, and even Bordeaux. Soon, the wine world may need to accept that many regions are seeing such changes due to regulatory revisions, advances in wine making technology, adaptations in viticulture, stylistic development, and/or climate change.

  • Effective immediately, the new format of the CWE Tasting Exam will be as follows:
    • Candidates will be presented with a flight of four unidentified wines. Using the SWE Wine Tasting Grid—CWE—which will be provided and available for use during the exam—candidates will be asked to provide a written analysis and tasting note of each wine. The total time allotted will be one hour.
    • Each wine assessment will be worth up to 30 points, as detailed on the tasting grid. In addition to providing descriptions of the appearance, aroma, taste components, and quality of the wine, candidates will be asked to match the identity of each wine using a provided list of possible answers. Only one point (out of the 30 possible for each wine) will be dependent upon the accurate identification of the wine.
    • The minimum passing score—combining the responses for all four wines—will be 90 points (out of a possible 120).

SWE acknowledges the diversity of human sensory perception and will accept a range of descriptive vocabulary in candidate answers. We are looking for responses that are demonstrative, logical, consistent, and appropriate for each specific wine.

Note: The format of this exam may be modified for use in a virtual setting, which may involve verbal assessments in place of—or in addition to—the written exercises.

If you have any questions, please contact Jane Nickles at jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org.

 

Meet the Board: Adam Acquistapace, CWE

Adam Acquistapace

Adam Acquistapace, CWE

Today we’re delighted to introduce you to our final new board member, Adam Acquistapace, CWE.

Adam grew up working in his family’s grocery store, Acquistapace’s, in Covington, Louisiana. After attending Louisiana State University and Tulane, he took over running the store’s wine department. That was his first position working in wine and he told us when he began, he “had no idea what he was doing.” “I had a lot of great advice in the very beginning from my dad. He told me to learn everything about wine and spirits. He gave me the opportunity and resources. He said ‘go to every tasting, every event, every winery’” Adam explained to us.

Adam first found out about the SWE through a Louisiana-based wholesaler and he quickly jumped into studying for the CSW. “I studied every day for three months. I read the study guide multiple times. I was amazed at how little I knew,” he told us. Wine education and development was a key turning point for Adam and the market. “Wine and spirits education changed everything. It changed the trajectory of our whole company. The preparation for the CSW was an incredible catalyst for the expansion of our wine and spirits department.”

His typical work day is spent managing operations across three locations. Adam oversees special customer events and tastings. He loves working with customers and engaging with them about new products. When he’s not working, Adam loves spending time with his family, their dog Petrie, and their cats Louie-Darren and Dottie.

Welcome to the board, Adam!

Post authored by Ben Coffelt, CSW, CSS

Meet the Board: Madison Kreamer CSS, CSW, CWE

Madison Kreamer CSS, CSW, CWE

Madison Kreamer CSS, CSW, CWE

Welcome back to our series where we highlight our newest members of SWE’s Board of Directors. Today, we’re happy to introduce you to Madison Kreamer. Madison is currently the Senior Wine & Spirits Education Manager for Trinchero Family Estates and lives in Napa Valley, CA. Originally from Leawood, Kansas, Madison has worked in a wide variety of positions in the wine and hospitality industries.

“My first job was at a frozen custard shop in Kansas. I was an expert at making concretes (those from the Midwest know what I’m talking about),” she told us. “I always thought I would work in restaurants or events before I found my way into the wine industry.” Along the way from her start at the custard shop, she graduated from Auburn University with a degree in Hospitality Management and spent time working for an events company in New York City and restaurants in Florida.

Madison was first introduced to the SWE when she was hired at Trinchero over three years ago. “Since my first day with Trinchero, I dove headfirst into wine and spirits education. I have had the opportunity to earn the CSW, CSS, and CWE. The SWE has been a tremendous organization for me to build my wine and spirits knowledge,” she says. When asked to give a piece of advice to those just starting in the industry Madison told us: “One thing that I learned very quickly in this industry is that there you will never know everything within the world of wine. While you can come close, there is always a new regulation, growing region or style of wine that has just passed. While it may seem daunting, this is a reason why I think the world of wine is so intriguing and exciting.”

When Madison isn’t at Trinchero Family Estates hosting trade professionals from around the world and teaching about wine and spirits, she enjoys cooking, gardening, and baking bread. We’re absolutely thrilled to have her join the SWE in a leadership role. Welcome to the board, Madison!

Post authored by Ben Coffelt, CSS, CSW

Meet the Board: George Blanckensee

George Blackensee, CSW

George Blanckensee, CSW

Our Meet the Board series is our way to introduce the newest members of SWE’s Board of Directors to our members. Today, we’re delighted to highlight George Blanckensee. George is currently the Estate Director of Chateau Montelena, a position he has held for three years, and he has been with the winery for over eleven years.

While he has spent a long time working in Napa Valley, George is originally from San Francisco and spent twenty years in Southern California. He went to University of California, Irvine, where he majored in Political Science. While in college, he worked at a hotel and had his first experience working with wine: “My first job in the industry was working in room service at a four-star hotel. I learned about the wines the hotel had, by selling them to guests over the phone when they placed their orders.”

One of George’s favorite aspects of the wine and spirits industry is the hospitality side. He loves hosting guests and visitors at the winery which is also one of his key responsibilities. “Hosting people is always fun. Sometimes, you can’t be sure if they’re learning or fully enjoying their experience at the winery. But then they go away and post something on social media or send an actual note to me on how amazing their time was. That’s very rewarding,” George told us.

George first heard about the SWE while working at Chateau Montelena. They’ve held an Industry Membership, which George has used to enroll many team members in the Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) program. He understands the importance or education and professional development. “It brought me to where I am,” he said, “I immersed myself in all the wine education related opportunities, from trade tastings, attending events and seminars. I was a sponge taking in as much as I could.” For those just beginning in the wine and spirits industry, his advice is to jump into the deep end. “Go out and learn as much as you can! When you think you know everything, start over because you don’t. There’s always something new to learn.”

When not working, George enjoys traveling, cooking, and sports. We’re delighted to have him join the SWE Board of Directors. Welcome to the Board, George!

Post authored by Ben Coffelt, CSS, CSW

Meet the Board: Lisa Kozloff, CSS

Lisa Kozloff, CSS

Lisa Kozloff, CSS

Lisa Kozloff, CSS, is a newly elected member of the Board of Directors of the Society of Wine Educators (SWE) and has also been elected to the position of Secretary. Her introduction to SWE came while a candidate for the Hospitality/Beverage Specialist Certificate (HBSC) which she earned in 2012. She’s seen the benefit of wine and spirits education in building a career and opportunities in the industry.

Lisa began her career in hospitality in college, working as a server and then bartender. She earned a degree in journalism from UNC Chapel Hill, but she chose to continue working in restaurants. “Years later and I have still never worked with my degree which makes my mother very unhappy. She brings it up every Thanksgiving,” she told us.

Lisa currently serves as the Director of Beverage for Firebirds Wood Fired Grill, a national chain of 51 upscale casual restaurants. She has been with Firebirds since they opened their first restaurant in 2000; she began her career with the company as the Bar Manager and later moved up to become the General Manager at their second location. In a typical day, Lisa maintains working relationships with beverage and alcohol vendors, oversees on the beverage menus for the chain, helps design and test new menu items, and sample new products such as wine, spirits, beer, and other beverages.

When asked what she loved most about working in the hospitality industry, she told us, “It’s never the ‘same old thing.’ You are constantly meeting new people. Interacting with folks all over the country. When you’re in the restaurants there is always such a hum of energy working the floor. We are hosting a party every day!” We also asked what advice she would give to someone starting out with a career in wine and spirits. “Be more empathetic, especially when people are in a tough situation. Years ago, managers and chefs could be very inflexible with their staff. The job is much more fulfilling when you treat people the way you would want to be treated.”

When she isn’t working, Lisa enjoys cooking and traveling with her husband and her 14-year-old daughter, Rory. Her hobbies include spending time with her six-year old boxer Coco and collecting tiki mugs.

Welcome to the board, Lisa!

Post authored by Ben Coffelt, CSS, CSW

SWE Virtual Conference: that’s a wrap!

Thats a wrap

Looks like we made it! SWE’s first-ever virtual conference (held August 12–14, 2020) was a success!

We welcomed nine speakers and covered a diversity of topics ranging from the Pyramid Schemes of Germany and Austria to climate change and the best of rosé. We even tackled Tuscany vs. Piedmont under the guidance of Sharron McCarthy! Check out the conference agenda here.

The conference sessions have all been archived and are now available for viewing. Session handouts and review quizzes are also available on the Conference Attendee Portal.

If you are a current member of SWE and would like to access our archived 2020 Virtual Conference, please contact Danielle LaRosa, SWE’s Meetings and Events Coordinator at dlarosa@societyofwineeducators.org.

Note: the conference archive will remain available indefinitely and is available free-of-charge to current members of SWE.

 

Zirbenz, Vermouth, Gruyère: Gifts of the European Alps

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The European Alps—stretching from France, Italy, and Switzerland through Germany and Austria and Slovenia—contain within them a diverse series of ecosystems. These include the Alpine lowlands—rich with deciduous trees and ideal for farming and vineyards. Higher up, the area is known for conifer forests of fir, spruce, and pine. Above the tree line, the valleys explode with the plants of the Alpine meadows: herbs, grasses, wildflowers, and shrubs.

The bounty of the Alps is reflected in the wine, food, and spirits of the region. These include:

  • Absinthe: The first-ever Absinthe Distillery was opened in 1797 by Henri-Louis Pernod in the Swiss town of Couvet [now part of Val-de-Travers])
  • Vermouth: The town of Chambéry, located in the Alps of Eastern France, has long been a center of vermouth production and is now home to several brands of vermouth including Dolin, Routin, and C. Cosmoz.
  • The wines of the Alps, which include those produced in the French regions of Jura and Savoie and Italy’s Val d’Aosta.
  • The wines of Switzerland, which include some fascinatingly obscure wines produced from the native grapes of region—such as Chasselas, Amigne of Vétroz, and Cornalin du Valais.
  • Botanical liqueurs: A range of fascinating and historic botanical liqueurs that includes Chartreuse, Génépy des Alpes, and Bonal.
  • Cheese: The legendary dairy farms of the Alps produce a range of cheeses that includes Emmental, Gruyère, Appenzeller, Comté, Abondance, and Fontina Val D’Aosta (as well as fondue and raclette).
Photo by Moroder (derivative work) via Wikimedia Commons

Photo by Moroder (derivative work) via Wikimedia Commons

And then there’s Zirbenz, known as the Stone Pine Liqueur of the Alps. Zirbenz is a sweet, slightly bitter, fruity, and resinous liqueur flavored with the immature fruit (cones) of the Zirbelkiefer tree (also known as the Arolla Stone Pine Tree). The Arolla Stone Pine grows in the Alps and Carpathian Mountains of central Europe, and can thrive at elevations up to 2,300 meters (7,500 ft) above sea level.

Zirbenz is produced at the Josef Hofer Distillery in Steiermark (Styria), Austria. After the unopened (immature) cones of the trees are harvested, they are sliced open and macerated in a base spirit. This provides the liqueur with its natural earthy-red color and its slightly bitter, tannic finish. It’s something you have to experience to believe.

References/for further learning:

Conference Recap: Specifically Spirits

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The SWE crew is just back from our first-ever “Specifically Spirits” mini-conference (held in Washington DC on April 26, 2019), and we are pleased to declare it a great success! We’d like to thank our attendees, many of whom were first-time participants in an SWE program. For those of you who couldn’t make it, here are a few of the highlights.

First up: “Herbs and Flowers, Weeds and Seeds: The Beauty of Botanicals” presented by Jane A. Nickles, CSE, CWE (yours truly). This session presented six botanically-infused spirits, while concentrating on the botanical components themselves. Attendees were each provided with nine (super-cute) labeled jars containing the botanicals and were encouraged to sniff, crush, and taste each one. The featured botanicals included juniper berry, coriander seed, angelica root, orris root, cardamom, cubeb berry, bergamot, rose hips, and allspice.

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Each botanical was introduced along with a little bit of scientific (botanical) information, its typical aroma/taste profile, and bits of its local lore. For instance, did you know that allspice is named for its aromas (described as a cross between cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, and clove), but was originally believed to be black pepper—which is while it is often referred to as pimento or pimienta? Or that orris root is the dried root of the lovely iris flower?

The spirits (and botanicals) tasted included the following: Bluecoat American Dry Gin (featuring juniper berry, coriander seed, and angelica root), Drumshanbo Slow Distilled Gunpowder Irish Gin (featuring orris root and cardamom), Bobby’s Schiedam Dry Gin (featuring cubeb berry), Sacred Rosehip cup (featuring rosehips), and Italicus Rosolio di Bergamotto (featuring Bergamotto di Reggio-Calabria). Attendees were gifted a “botanical aroma kit” featuring 10 glass vials with aromatic botanicals as well as a selection of botanical teas and candies.

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Next up was “American Spirit,” presented by Ben Coffelt, CSW and Shields Hood, CSS, CWE. This session traced the history of the United States along with the history of American whiskey. Here’s how Shields and Ben describe the session: George Washington’s presidency. The Civil War. The Railroad. The Industrial Revolution. World War II. Through almost every step of the American journey, one spirit has been our constant companion: whiskey. From early Monongahela ryes to our modern finished bourbons, attendees will learn about the role whiskey has played in American culture and history.

The whiskeys that were presented (and tasted) included the following: Henry McKenna 10 Year Single Barrel Bottled-in-Bond Kentucky Straight Bourbon, Old Forester 1920 Prohibition Style Kentucky Straight Bourbon, Jack Daniel’s Sinatra Select Tennessee Whiskey, Whistle Pig 10 Year Straight Rye Whiskey, and Wild Turkey Master’s Keep Revival Kentucky Straight Bourbon.

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Following lunch, attendees were treated to a session by the name of “That’s the Spirit 2019,” presented by Trudy Thomas, CSE, CSW. Trudy is the Director of Beverage operations at the Gaylord Opryland Resort and Conference Center, and her session revolved around the latest trends that she has observed throughout the resort’s more than twenty food and beverage outlets, as well as her in-depth knowledge of the industry as a whole.

The trends (and spirits) that were featured in Trudy’s session included the following: craft vermouth (featuring Trincheri Sweet Vermouth), drinking globally (featuring Roku Gin), American brandy (featuring Copper & Kings Brandy American Craft Brandy), private barrel programs (featuring Casa Noble Single Barrel Reposado Tequila), and the importance of the story behind the pour (featuring Piggyback Rye).

Our final session of the day was “Cognac: a Culmination of Excellence,” presented by Hugh Lander, CSS. Cognac has long had the reputation as the “king of brandies,” and its quality and complexity place it alongside the finest of fine whiskies. This information-packed session discussed just what it is that makes cognac unique among spirits—starting with the region, the climate, the crus, and the soils.

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Hugh was able to break down the seemingly complicated aging requirements for cognac, and the audience was fascinated to learn that the reason some aging designations are in English (such as VSOP – “very special old pale”) rather than French is that England was historically considered the main market for cognac—and even today a huge majority of cognac is exported (and not consumed by the French)! To wrap it up, we discussed how the numerous regulations cognac must adhere to are actually the result of centuries of best practice in winemaking, distillation, and aging. The cognacs sipped along the way included Courvoisier VS, Remy Martin VSOP, Remy Martin 1738 Accord Royal, and Remy Martin XO.

An hors d’oeuvre reception and walk-around tasting featuring a range of spirits as well as local distilleries provided the capstone to the day. Featured distilleries included One Eight Distilling (Washington DC), Catoctin Creek Distilling Company (Purcellville, VA), Falls Church Distillers (Falls Church, VA), New Columbia Distilling (Green Hat Gin/Washington DC), Republic Restoratives (Washington DC), and KO Distilling (Manassas, VA). In addition, the lovely Sharron McCarthy was on hand to pour a delicious and minty Florio Fernet from Sicily, Sartori di Verona Villa Marzia Limoncello, and Castello Banfi Tuscan Grappa.

And a good time was had by all!

Meet the Board: Meg Hansen, CSW, CSS

Meg Hansen enjoying a tasting at Frank Family Vineyard in Napa

Meg Hansen enjoying a tasting at Frank Family Vineyard in Napa

Meg (Margaret) Hansen, CSW, CSS is one of the newest members of the Society of Wine Educators (SWE) Board of Directors. Several years ago, Meg experienced an amusing “accidental” introduction to SWE as she was serving on the wine committee of the Minnehaha Country Club. It seems that the club’s chef was scheduled to take the Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) exam, but by the time the exam rolled around he was no longer employed there. As such, Meg had a “last minute” opportunity to step up and take the exam and by doing so, became determined to learn more about wine and to achieve the CSW. Within a short time, she had earned the CSW as well as the Hospitality Beverage Specialist Certificate (HBSC) and the Certified Specialist of Spirits (CSS) as well. Meg is currently a Certified Wine Educator (CWE) aspirant and has attended the last three conferences as well as dozens of our certification summits and webinars!

In her professional life, Meg is a physician assistant who at one time practiced in the allergy and asthma field and served as a professor in the South Dakota University physician assistant program. For the past 13 years she has been the executive director of the South Dakota Board of Medical and Osteopathic Examiners—the licensing board for physicians and allied health professions who hold a South Dakota license.

As the chair of the Minnehaha Country Club’s wine committee, Meg leads a group that organizes monthly wine dinners and tastings designed to educate the club’s staff, members, and public guests about the wide world of wine and spirits. She wears her CSW and CSS pins at every opportunity and if they do not get noticed, much to the chagrin of her family, she is more than happy to point them out.

Welcome to the Board, Meg Hansen!