Wine, Wit, and Wisdom

Photo via: https://www.prosecco.wine

Just in time for Valentine’s Day 2021, the world will have the pleasure of Prosecco in pink!

The drive to approve a rosé version of Prosecco DOC was begun back in 2018, when the consorzio first agreed to the proposal to revise the rules regarding the uber-popular bubbly from the Veneto. At that time, several Prosecco estates were producing pink versions of Glera-based sparkling wine, but they were unable to label the wine as Prosecco.

The newly-defined Prosecco Rosé must be produced using a base of Glera grapes that includes 10% to 15% Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir)—which must be fermented on the grape skins. Pinot Nero is the only red grape allowed, despite the fact that the area grows a wide range of red grapes—many of them used in other sparkling wines of the region—including Raboso and Merlot.

Other rules and regulations include the following:

• The sweetness level/residual sugar can range from Brut Nature (less than 3 g/L RS) to Extra Dry (12 to 17 g/L RS)
• The wine must be vintage-dated and labeled with the term Millesimato and the vintage year; a minimum of 85% of the wine must be from the stated vintage
• The second fermentation must occur in a pressurized tank (Charmat method) and must last a minimum of 60 days
• The wine may be released on January 1 of the year following the harvest
• The wine should appear as light-to-bright pink, with a lively, persistent mousse

Photo via: https://www.prosecco.wine

Much of the wine world declared Rosé Prosecco DOC “official” on May 21, 2020 when the Prosecco Consorzio announced that the proposal had been approved by Italy’s Ministero delle Politiche Agricole Alimentari e Forestali (MIPAAF). As of this week (June 15, 2020 to be exact), the updated disciplinare has been published in the Official Journal of the Italian Republic, and national approval has been confirmed. (The modification will now head to the EU for “final, final” approval.)

Rosé Prosecco is only approved to be produced under the Prosecco DOC; it is not expected that the Prosecco DOCGs (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco DOCG and Colli Asolani DOCG) will follow suit.

The first bottles of Rosé Prosecco are expected to be released on New Year’s Day in 2021—which might also be an excellent occasion for celebration.

Welcome to the world, Rosé Prosecco DOC!

References/for more information:

• Gazzetta Ufficial della Republica Italiana-June 15 2020 (see page 45)
• Announcement via the Prosecco Consorzio: https://www.prosecco.wine/it/news/approvata-la-produzione-di-prosecco-doc-rose

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

For generations, it was assumed that Corvinone—the big-berried, dark blue-black grape grown sparsely throughout Veneto—was a roly-poly mutation of the locally renowned Corvina grape variety. Thus, it was given the name Corvinone—”big Corvina”—and tolerated for use (in limited quantities) alongside Corvina in some of the red wines of the region, namely the Valpolicellas and the Bardolinos.

However, in 1993, S. Cancellier and U. Angelini—as published in the Vignevini Journal of the University of Bologna—gave the world proof that Corvinone is a separate grape variety. Corvinone is, they stated, most likely related to Corvina, but distinct, nonetheless.

According to Italy’s Registro Nazionale delle Variet di Vite, Corvinone tends to break bud fairly late, experience medium timing in flowering and veraison, and is a medium-to-late ripener (germogliamento: tardiva, fioritura: media, invaiatura: media, naturazione: medio-tardiva). Both the bunches and the individual grape berries are noted for being large in size and distinctly larger than Corvina. Corvinone is quite able to respond to water stress and takes well to drying; for this reason, it often goes through the appassimento process for use in Amarone and Recioto.

I have never encountered a varietal Corvinone wine, although they are allowed (at least in theory) to be produced under the IGT Veneto, IGT Vallagarina, or IGT Verona.  These wines might show the typical primary aromas of Corvinone, including red and black fruits such as cherry, raspberry, and blackberry; floral notes (violet), cocoa, and tobacco.

We are not quite sure from where the name Corvina, and thus Corvinone, is derived. However, many experts suggest that the grapes were named for their dark blue-black color, reminiscent of the color of the feathers of a raven (corvo in Italian).

For super-advanced students of wine: Late last year, the disciplinari for the wines of Valpolicella (Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG, Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG, Valpolicella DOC,  and Valpolicella Ripasso DOC) were all revised to allow 45% to 95% Corvina OR Corvinone grapes in the wines. You might recall that, up until this change, the allowed amount of Corvinone was limited to no more than 50% of the amount of Corvina used. This limitation has been now removed for all the variants of Valpolicella. The allowance for Bardolino DOC and Bardolino Superiore DOCG remains unchanged for now (35% to 80% Corvina, of which 20% may be replaced by Corvinone).

References/for more information:

• Robinson, Jancis, Julia Harding, and José Vouillamoz: Wine Grapes. New York, 2012: Harper Collins Publishers
• Robinson, Jancis and Julia Harding: The Oxford Companion to Wine, 4th Edition. Oxford, 2015: The Oxford University Press.
• Disciplinare – Amarone della Valpolicella updated 2019
• Cancellier, S & Angelini, U (1993). “Corvina veronese e Corvinone: Due varietà diverse”. Vignevini-Bologna. Edagricole SPA. 20: 44
• https://www.wine-searcher.com/grape-2190-corvinone
• http://catalogoviti.politicheagricole.it/scheda.php?codice=328

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Photo of Clos Montmartre by Par Son of Groucho via Wikimedia Commons

On May 25, 2020, France’s Bulletin Officiel du Ministère de l’Agriculture et de l’Alimentation (Official bulletin of the Ministry of Agriculture and Food) announced the approval of the Île-de-France Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) for red, white, and rosé wines.

Wine produced from grapes grown anywhere within the Île de France administrative region will be eligible. Aisne, a department located in the neighboring Hauts-de-France region is also included in the defined area. More specifically, the Île de France PGI includes five sub-appellations:

• Coteaux de Blunay—covering the commune of Melz-sur-Seine, located on the eastern border of the Île de France (about 50 miles southeast of Paris)
• Coteaux de Suresnes-Mont-Valérien—Suresnes is a commune in the western suburbs of Paris, located about 9 km/5.3 miles from the Paris city center
• Coteaux de Provins—covering the commune of Provins, located about 10 miles northwest of Melz-sur-Seine
• Guérard—covering the communes of communes de Guérard, Tigeaux et Crécy-la-Chapelle (located about 28 miles west of Paris, and just a few miles from Disneyland Paris)
• Paris—covering the city of Paris, including its famous Montmarte Vineyard

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A long list of grape varieties are permitted—33 white varieties, 8 pink (gris/rose) varieties, and 30 red varieties. Most or all of the grapes you would think of as typical French varieties—including Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Chenin Blanc, Gamay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Sauvignon Blanc—are included in the list. Some unique grapes—such as Meslier Saint-François, Chasselas, Mûller-Thurgau, Romorantin, and César. (For a complete list, see the Cahier des Charges, linked below.)

The Île-de-France  PGI title is approved for still (non-sparkling) wines and includes allowances for primeur or nouveau wines to be released on the third Thursday of November (of the harvest year).

Wine-producing vineyards in and around the city of Paris were widespread in the 18^th century and at one time occupied 42,000 hectares (103,000 acres) of land. These vineyards all but disappeared after the Second World War; but were brought back to life in 1933 with the planting of 2,00 vines in the Clos de Montmartre vineyard. Clos de Montmartre—the famous “urban vineyard” of Paris—is located on the north side of the Hill of Montmartre just a short walk from the Basilica of Sacré-Cœur de Montmartre.

Later—in 1965—the Municipal Vineyard of Suresnes/Clos-du-Pas Saint Maurice was replanted on the crest of Mont-Valérien, just across the Seine River from the Bois de Boulogne Park in Paris’ 16^th arrondissement. Today, the vineyard produces an average of 4,500 bottles of white wine per year and is an under-the-radar “find” for smart (or lucky) tourists.

With this announcement, we can be certain to find PGI wines from the Île-de-France in our local neighborhood wine shops soon (that is, as long as your local neighborhood wine shop is located somewhere in or close to Paris).

Welcome to the World, Île-de-France PGI!

References/for more information:

• Cahier des Charges IGP Ile de France
• https://info.agriculture.gouv.fr/gedei/site/bo-agri/historique/28-05-2020
• https://www.vitisphere.com/news-88788-Paris-has-its-own-geographical-indication.htm?fbclid=IwAR3TEfLuOoIQOOAUgtxw22ywHKQBPWof_smZ6Wm6ZcZRG4pefZA0U1_Vz_8
• https://france3-regions.francetvinfo.fr/paris-ile-de-france/paris/grand-paris/vins-franciliens-obtiennent-enfin-indication-geographique-protegee-1788151.html?fbclid=IwAR3VLDWxKIYzeXWimVh8pCu4FSsq_9xEM-JUr5N4WABKHr4t1lS0tkA4AR8
• https://www.paris-bistro.com/vin/bacchus-a-paris/vignerons-franciliens-reunis
• https://en.suresnes-tourisme.com/vineyard-of-suresnes.html
• https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vignoble_d%27%C3%8Ele-de-France

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

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Today—June 3, 2020—the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) of the United States announced the establishment of two new American Viticultural Areas (AVAs): Tualatin Hills AVA and Laurelwood District AVA.

These new AVAs are located within entirely Oregon’s Willamette Valley AVA. This brings to total of Willamette Valley sub-appellations to 9; the total number of Oregon AVAs to 21, and the total number of AVAs in the United States to 248.

The Laurelwood District AVA lies entirely within the previously established Chehalem Mountains AVA; and is located along its northeastern boundary.  Foremost among the region’s distinguishing features is the predominance of the Laurelwood soil type. Laurelwood soil is an ancient wind-blown (loess) soil that dates to the Pleistocene era (typically dated from 2.580 million to 11,700 years BCE). During this period, a thick mantel of silt was blown into the eastern slopes of the Chehalem Mountains, forming deep, well-drained soils located at elevations between 200 to 1,500 feet (61 to 457 m).

The total surface area of the Laurelwood District AVA covers approximately 33,600 acres; of these, approximately 975 are planted to vine. There are just over 25 wineries and 70 commercial vineyards located in the new AVA. Principals from Ponzi Vineyards and Dion Vineyards championed the original petition and successful establishment of the Laurelwood District AVA.

The Tualatin Hills AVA is located within the larger Willamette Valley AVA, covering roughly 144,000 acres in what could be described as a U-shaped area in the Willamette Valley’s northwest corner.  The boundaries of the AVA are defined by the watershed of the Tualatin River and ranges from 200 to 1,000 feet (61 to 305 m) in elevation. The Tualatin Hills are the only place outside of the Laurelwood AVA where Laurelwood soils dominate the landscape.

The Tualatin Hills AVA is currently planted to just over 860 acres of vines and is home to more than 21 wineries and 33 commercial vineyards.  Principals from Montinore Estate, Apolloni Vineyards, and David Hill Vineyard and Winery were among the leading proponents for the petition and establishment of the Tualatin Hills AVA.

Welcome to the World Tualatin Hills and Laurelwood District AVAs!

Map via the original petition, as submitted to the TTB: https://www.regulations.gov/docket?D=TTB-2019-0003

References/for more information:

• TTB – Establishment of the Tualatin Hills and Laurelwood AVAs June 3 2020
• Original Petition – Laurelwood AVA
• Original Petition – Tualatin Hills AVA
• Map of the Laurelwood and Tualatin Hills AVAs as proposed
• https://www.bizjournals.com/portland/news/2020/06/02/willamette-valley-has-a-new-official-winegrowing.html
• https://www.bizjournals.com/portland/news/2020/06/03/tualatin-hills-gains-recogniztion.html

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

News flash: The Anjou Villages-Brissac AOC has officially changed its name to Anjou Brissac AOC. (Well, that’s a bit of a minor news flash—maybe more like a news sparkle—but wine geeks will want to know.)

Photo of Château de Brissac by Manfred Heyde via Wikimedia Commons

The Anjou Brissac AOC produces dry, still (non-sparkling) red wines only. These are defined quite elegantly in French as vins tranquilles rouges. These wines are based primarily on Cabernet Franc (which leads the area in plantings), although Cabernet Sauvignon is also allowed in any amount. The wines of the Brissac Anjou AOC enjoy a reputation as perhaps the finest red wines of the Anjou, and are considered to be a bit fuller-bodied and richer in flavors (dark cherry, raspberry, cocoa, cinnamon) than most red wines of the Anjou. Anjou Brissac AOC wines are proudly produced by a limited number of wineries (around 30).

The Anjou Brissac AOC is located just south of the city of Angers, adjacent to the left bank of the Loire River. The area extends southwest for just over 9 kilometers (5.5 miles) over the gently rolling hills on the edge of the Massif Armorican. Vineyards are planted along both sides of the Aubance River (a tributary of the Loire). The unique soils of the area comprise mainly schist and gravel over a bedrock of shale and limestone.

If you are planning on touring the area, be sure and make some time to see the Château de Brissac. The château was originally built as a castle by the Counts of Anjou in the 11th century. It was later gifted to Charles II de Cossé along with the title of Duke of Brissac.  The château—still owned by the Cossé-Brissac family—has seven stories, making it the tallest château in the Loire Valley. In non-quarantine times, the château is open to the public for tours and overnight stays, while the lovely grounds frequently host concerts and festivals—including the annual Val de Loire festival.

Map via: https://www.vinsvaldeloire.fr/

Here are a few other interesting tidbits about Anjou Brissac:

• The Anjou Brissac AOC occupies the exact same geographic location as the Coteaux de l’Aubance AOC. The Coteaux de l’Aubance AOC produces Chenin Blanc-based, sweet white wines.
• The area covered by the Anjou Brissac AOC (as well as the Coteaux de l’Aubance AOC) is located within the Maine-et-Loire département, and includes the following communes: Brissac Loire Aubance (comprising the former communes of Brissac-Quincé, Saint-Saturnin-sur-Loire, and Vauchrétien), Denée, Les Garennes sur Loire (comprising the former communes of Juigné-sur-Loire et Saint-Jean-des-Mauvrets), Mozé-sur-Louet, Mûrs-Erigné, Saint-Melaine-sur-Aubance, and Soulaines-sur-Aubance
• The appellation was created (as Anjou Villages Brissac) in 1998, when it was separated out from the much larger Anjou Villages AOC.

Regulations on the wines:

• Minimum 11% abv
• Maximum 3g/L of residual sugar
• May be released on July 15 of the year following harvest (although the wine is considered to have excellent potential for aging)

Leading producers of Anjou Brissac AOC include Domaine de Gaubourg, Château la Varière, and Domaine de Montgilet.

Confusion Corner: This change does not affect the Anjou Villages AOC which (confusingly) is a separate appellation from the (former) Anjou Villages Brissac AOC.

References/for more information:

• Cahier des Charges Anjou Brissac AOC
• Map AOC Anjou Brissac via INAO (map still reads “Anjou Villages Brissac”)
• https://www.vinsvaldeloire.fr/en/wine/anjou-villages-brissac
• https://chateau-brissac.fr/?lang=en
• http://domainedegaubourg.com/domaine.html
• http://www.chateaulavariere.com/
• http://www.montgilet.com/?lang=en

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

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In March of 2020, Spain’s Ministry of Agriculture approved a proposal to modify the Pliego de Condiciones for the DO Ribera del Duero. The new rules allow for the production of white wines based on the Albillo Mayor grape variety to be bottled under the Ribera del Duero DO, beginning with the 2020 vintage.

The Ribera del Duero DO—located in Castilla y León—was established in 1982 and quickly made a name for its flavorful red wines based on a minimum of 75% Tempranillo (often referred to here as Tinta del País or Tinto Fino). The red wines of the area always allowed for the inclusion of up to 5% Albillo Mayor—a white grape believed to be native to the area and grown in minute quantities but renowned for the rich aromatic notes and softening effect the it brought to the red wines of the region. Rosado is also produced in the area, often based on Garnacha with perhaps a bit of Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon or Albillo Mayor in the blend.

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With the newly-published revisions in the rules, the Ribera del Duero DO is now producing white wines—known as Ribera Blanco—based on a minimum of 75% Albillo Mayor. The other white grapes allowed include Alarije (Pirulés) and Chasselas—provided they were planted prior to July 21, 1982.

Ribera Blanco may be produced via stainless steel fermentation as a light, fruity wine intended for early consumption. Such wines have been described as having delicate fruit flavors (green apple, lemon, pear) and lightly floral aromas.

Ribera Blanco may also be produced via oak fermentation and/or oak aging; and may be bottled under the typical aging designation for Spanish DOP wines (crianza, reserva, and gran reserva). Such wines are expected to show hints of gold or amber in the color and exhibit aromas of ripe pear, dried fruit, oak, smoke, beeswax, and vanilla.

The proposal to allow for the production of Ribera Blanco was originally published by El Boletín Oficial del Estado (BOE) of Spain on July 27, 2019. While the new DO regulations have been approved at the national level, they will still need to work their way through the EU approval process.

Map via: riberadelduero.es

References/for more information:

• Pliego de Condiciones – DO Ribera del Duero – updated March 2020
• Press Kit – Ribera Blanco
• https://www.mapa.gob.es/es/alimentacion/temas/calidad-agroalimentaria/calidad-diferenciada/dop/vcprd/DOP_ribera-duero.aspx

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Photo via: http://chozascarrascal.com/vina/

Bodega Chozas Carrascal—located in Valencia, Spain—was founded by the husband-and-wife team of Julian Lopez and Jose Maria Peidro in 1990. The poetic-sounding name of the estate is based on the nickname (“Chozas”) of one of their grandfathers, and a type of scrub oak tree native to the Mediterranean (Quercus coccifera, aka carrascal) that—once upon a time—were widespread in the area.

Thirteen years after their purchase of the property—in 2003—the winery released its first wine. These early wines, bottled mainly under the Utiel-Requena DO, included a range of red, white, rosé, and sparkling wines based on the traditional grapes of the region (Bobal, Monastrell, Garnacha, Tempranillo and Macabeo) as well as some international varieties, including Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Voigner, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc.

In 2012, 30 hectares within the Chozas Carrascal estate were approved by the Spanish government as a Vino de Pago. Just a few days ago (on May 11, 2020), the designation was approved by the European Commission and published in the Journal of the EU. (It’s official!)

Bodega Chozas Carrascal continues to produce a wide range of wines, including reds, whites, and rosé bottled under the Utiel-Requena DO as well as sparkling wines (Cava DO). Their current releases include the following four wines bottled under the Vino de Pago Chozas Carrascal designation:

• Las Tres: a white blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Macabeo; barrel-fermented, fermented in oak, and oak-aged for 8 weeks with daily lees stirring
• Las Ocho: a red blend of 8 grapes; each grape is vinified separately with the final blend aged for 14 months in French oak
• Las Quatro: a young (joven) rosé made from co-fermented Tempranillo, Garnacha, Syrah, and Merlot
• Cabernet Familiar: 100% Cabernet Franc, aged for 9 months in new French oak

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The regulations of the Vino de Pago Chozas Carrascal allow for the production of these four styles of wine, in accordance with the following standards:

• 100% Cabernet Franc (monovarietal/dry red):
  • Minimum of 5 months of oak aging
  • Abv of at least 13%
• Dry red blends:
  • Grape varieties: Bobal, Monastrell, Garnacha Tinta, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, and Merlot
  • Minimum of 5 months of oak aging
  • Abv of at least 13%
• Dry white blends:
  • Grape varieties: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Bland, and Macabeo (Viura)
  • Fermentation must occur in oak barrels
  • No aging requirement
  • Abv of at least 12.5%
• Dry rosé:
  • Grape varieties: Syrah, Merlot, Garnacha, and Tempranillo
  • Stainless steel fermentation followed by “oak maceration” for a minimum of three weeks
  • Abv of at least 12.5%

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The Chozas Carrascal property includes an olive orchard, a spa, and an impressive array of wine tourism/tasting experiences. Time to plan a road trip (once it is safe to travel again).

References/for more information:

• Journal of the EU – May 2020 – Vino de Pago Chozas Carrascal
• Pliego de Condiciones – Vino de Pago Chozas Carrascal
• http://chozascarrascal.com/
• https://www.wine-searcher.com/regions-chozas+carrascal
• https://catavino.net/winery-of-the-week-chozas-carrascal/

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org