Guest Blogger: Why visit Central Otago? Let me give you a few reasons…

  By admin | January 31, 2019 - 9:45 am |
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View from Bendigo over Lake Dunstan towards Lowburn

View from Bendigo over Lake Dunstan towards Lowburn

Today we have a guest post from Lucia Volk, CWE. Lucia tells us about her recent trip to Central Otago where she found a range of world-class Pinot Noir, Riesling, and Sauvignon Blanc behind the local cellar doors!

If you ever have an opportunity to go visit the southernmost wine region in the world, jump on it!  The first reason is that it happens to be on New Zealand’s South Island, where it is impossible to put the camera down, with all the snow-capped mountains, azure-colored glacial lakes, as-wide-as-the-eye-can-see flocks of sheep feeding on fresh grass and wildflowers, and wild, rugged coastlines populated with seals, penguins, and a fantastic array of birds. Rippon on Lake Wanaka in Otago is alleged to be the most photographed winery on earth. No matter where you look, you are likely to utter some version of OMG!

Rudi Bauer pointing out different subregions around Lake Dunstan

Rudi Bauer pointing out different subregions around Lake Dunstan

Central Otago is the only wine region in New Zealand with a (semi)continental climate, benefitting from the rain shadow of the Southern Alps and the dry Maniototo Plain, an extension of the Mackenzie Region, to the east. Of course, New Zealand is a relatively narrow island surrounded by ocean, which keeps the climate overall cool. Since Jancis Robinson famously wrote in the 2001 edition of the World Atlas of Wine that “many believe this is where the Pinot grail is to be found,” Central Otago has generated a significant amount of buzz. This brings me to the second reason for going: it is a worthy quest!

Otago is one of sixteen administrative regions of New Zealand, with a population of roughly 230,000. Central Otago is home to Queenstown and Wanaka, picture-perfect lake towns that draw increasing numbers of tourists. Their bustle and noise, as well as steadily rising home prices, have sent old-time Otago residents to calmer places such as Cromwell and Bannockburn.  These two towns are at the heart of the Central Otago’s wine region, which is most usefully imagined as a triangle containing nine non-contiguous subregions of various sizes within.  The triangle begins east of Queenstown/Lake Wakatipu with the oldest and highest subregion Gibbston (first commercial release of wine in 1987). The imaginary line goes northeast to the town of Wanaka with the subregion Wanaka by the eponymous lake, and the lesser-known area of Queensberry to the east. Continuing the imaginary line to the southeast to the towns of Clyde and Alexandra, the subregion called Alexandra boasts both the hottest and coldest temperatures of the entire region. If you complete the triangle by connecting Alexandra to Queenstown, and then look for the triangle’s center, you find Lake Dunstan, bordered by the subregions of Bannockburn, Cromwell and Lowburn at the southern shores, Pisa to the east, and Bendigo, with its own subregion Tarras, to the west. (Tarras obtained world fame when Shrek, The Hermit Sheep was discovered nearby!)

Sign at the entrance of Rippon winery, whose vineyards remain phylloxera-free

Sign at the entrance of Rippon winery, whose vineyards remain phylloxera-free

Each of these subregions features different altitudes, soil types, sun exposure, and rainfall. The wine map for Central Otago is, in other words, a quilt with many patches of different fabrics and colors. As my diligent tasting efforts revealed, the star grape Pinot Noir—75% of Central Otago plantings–can develop a wide array of aromas and flavors on different sites, and so can Riesling, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Grüner Veltliner or Gewürztraminer. Once you drive yourself from one (side of the) lake to the next, you are able to appreciate the many differences that affect what ends up in the bottle.  It is much more fun to do it on site than to read about it online.

Most of the region’s 175 vineyards are family-owned, with an average size of about 10 ha [24 acres]. But big money in the form of foreign investment is beginning to reach Central Otago.  Foley Family Wines recently bought one of the flagship wineries, Mt. Difficulty, in Bannockburn for NZ$55 million (about US$38 million).  While it is too early to tell what impact this sale will have on the region—it certainly sent a jolt through the wine community—winemakers I spoke to hope that it will bring new ideas that can benefit everyone in this tight-knit community.

Bottles waiting to be riddled at Quartz Reef

Bottles waiting to be riddled at Quartz Reef

For instance, Rudi Bauer of Quartz Reef—please try his unbelievably affordable and delicious hand-crafted Méthode Traditionelle Brut—believes that Central Otago has yet to reach its fullest potential. Standing in his vineyard in Bendigo situated on NZ’s largest quartz deposit, he proudly pointed out the region’s significant accomplishments in producing premium wines in only 30 short years. In the 1980s, nobody expected vineyards to survive the annual frosts. Dr. Stuart Elms decided to plant Pinot Noir near the Kawarau River on Felton Road in Bannockburn in 1992, when nobody else believed his grapes would ripen. At that time, it was difficult to obtain vines to plant, and nobody understood the soils well enough to know what should go where. Currently, as older vineyards come up for replanting on Felton Road, new varieties replace the old in light of new soil insights. Felton Road produces award-winning Pinot Noir, which you should definitely try, as well as their bracing Riesling and intense Chardonnay.

Bauer started his Bendigo vineyard venture four years after Dr. Elms started his, in 1996. He was one of the first to plant on a hillside rather than alluvial flats near the lake, helping him keep frost damage under control (colder air seeks lower elevation). Much of the accumulating vineyard knowledge is shared among the region’s winemakers. One lovely example of winery collaboration is the 4 Barrels Walking Wine trail of four Cromwell-based wineries, the Wooing Tree, Misha’s, Aurum, and Scott Base.

Wine Tasting at Felton Road

Wine Tasting at Rippon

As is true of the rest of the country, the vast majority of Central Otago wineries operate under independently audited sustainability programs; Felton Road, Rippon, and Quartz Reef are Demeter certified Biodynamic. Winemakers in Central Otago are hardworking visionaries, committed to careful winemaking under challenging conditions. You want to meet them in person, which is why you need to book your ticket and go.

I recommend going to New Zealand in January, because it is summer there—basking in balmy temperatures beats unpacking your woolens every time! Daytime temperatures of 85°F and days that start at 6am and extend well after 9pm are great for foreign visitors, as they are for maturing grape clusters. Diurnal temperature changes ensure the acid remains high in the grapes. Sun exposure is intense, something Jancis Robinson in the most recent World Atlas of Wine credits to a hole in the ozone layer, leading to thick-skinned grapes and bright fruit flavors. Careful canopy management requires that grape clusters are exposed enough to ripen yet still covered up, so they do not suffer sunburn. Visitors must bring hats and sunscreen!

The lakes near Central Otago’s vineyards are plentiful sources of irrigation–needed for most of the fast-draining, sandy soils–and they are also perfect for water sports. In the cold Otago winters and early spring, when temperatures plummet, some of that lake water is also used via secondary sprinkler systems, to provide protection against frost, esp. at or after bud break. Someone figured out that vines encased in frozen water retain enough heat to survive freezing ambient temperatures! Other frost-fighting options available to wine-makers are helicopters (expensive!), wind machines, and frost pots. Gusty winds can be another challenge of nature, and can be met with careful trellis support.  Unlike Marlborough, where nearly all vineyard labor is done by machines, you regularly find vineyard crews—hired seasonally from Vanuatu and Fiji—in Central Otago.

Amisfield Bistro & Cellar Door near Queenstown

Amisfield Bistro & Cellar Door near Queenstown

Visitors can enjoy easy access to tasting rooms, or “cellar doors” as they are locally called, during the main tourist season. Many wineries offer tasty lunch options in addition to flights of their wines. Amisfield, which owns an estate in the Pisa subregion, had the brilliant idea of building a tasting facility and high-end bistro in Gibbston, right next to tourism mecca Queenstown, where they now serve over 50,000 visitors a year.

This brings me to a last point, which is the availability of restaurants and accommodation in Central Otago, where visitors might want to linger:  Queenstown and Wanaka are filled to the brim with options, while Cromwell and Bannockburn still lack a similar infrastructure.  The latter results in mostly day-trip-tourism from Queenstown or Wanaka—and only during the warm summer months.

But back to Rudi Bauer’s earlier point: Central Otago is still a young wine region. It is also super-dynamic, and there is no telling what it will look like in five or ten years. Based on the talent and passion already at work, it is reasonable to expect more and greater things.

Suggested further reading:

LuciaLucia Volk, CWE, runs MindfulVine, a Wine Education business in the Bay Area that specializes in tailored, at-home tastings to promote a greater enjoyment of wine. She grew up in Germany, where her grandfather started a Riesling winery. She knows what it takes to work those steep slate slopes by hand, and decided to start promoting Riesling and other European wines after obtaining a PhD in Anthropology in the United States, and working briefly in wine sales.

She now gets to have the best of two worlds and teach about global politics and cultures, as well as the many wonderful wine regions across Europe. She is also working–slowly–on a book about the lesser known German Anbaugebiete.

 

On the Radar: Trudy Thomas, CSE

  By admin | December 29, 2018 - 9:42 am |
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Master Distiller Lincoln Henderson once dubbed her “The Queen of Bourbon,” and in her stellar career Trudy Thomas has truly lived into that title, having recently become one of the few to achieve the Certified Spirits Educator designation from the SWE.

Trudy has a fascinating history.  She grew up in rural Kentucky, where she was introduced into the rich tradition of moonshine by her grandfather, who distilled his own spirits, flavored with fresh fruit and peppermint.  He even made copper coils for other distillers, one of which remains on display at the county courthouse.  She would watch him as he worked, sneaking tastes, learning from him—and become inspired by the passion and fire he had for what he did.

Despite this beginning, Trudy never intended to enter into the spirits industry.  She was a percussionist while at the University of Kentucky and dreamed of being a musician. Later, she graduated with a degree in speech therapy after an injury prompted a change in direction.

However, the past has a way of circling back around, though, and the fire and passion instilled by her grandfather found an outlet for Trudy first in bartending, then in the food and beverage industry as a whole.  Following this passion, she joined Spago Beverly Hills, where she was under the tutelage of Chef Wolfgang Puck for a period of four years.

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In 2008 she joined the JW Marriott Camelback Inn in Scottsdale, Arizona, to raise the bar on their beverage program.  In 2014 she joined the Gaylord Opryland property (managed by Marriott), where she is currently Director of Beverage, overseeing beverage for more than 20 outlets and banquets.

Trudy had been a judge of spirits and wine at BTI in Chicago, and also at the San Francisco Spirits Competition, and honed her skills in the evaluation of spirits.  While in Arizona, she decided to study for the CSW and the CSS, and was the first person to take and pass both examinations on the same day.  When the Society of Wine Educators introduced the CSE designation, she knew it was something that she wanted for herself both personally and professionally.  Preparing for the exam while working at Gaylord Opryland proved a challenge, with stops and starts along the way, requiring discipline to set aside the time to study.  With preparation help from fellow bartenders on evaluations and blind tastings, she passed the tasting portions of the exam; and returned later to take the multiple choice and essays.  Her presentation was on bourbon heritage in the America.

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To listen to Trudy reflect on her career, though, is to hear a story about the value of mentors and teachers, and of her appreciation for the many people along the way who mentored her in her own work, the likes of Lincoln Henderson, Parker Beam, Dave Pickerel, Bill Samuels, and Jimmy Russell, and other giants in the spirits industry.  She writes of the gentlemen who were so influential in her life:  “These legends are/were like fathers, kicking me in the behind when I needed it, most of the time they tried to restrain my fire and encourage my passion but they always believed in me and pushed me to the next level for success; they helped me to test my limits while remembering to never sacrifice loyalty; they gave me wings to fly while keeping my roots always planted in Kentucky soil. These mentors were both my heritage and my future.”

What’s next for Trudy?  First, she wants to continue to grow and improve the beverage programs for Marriott, and specifically at the Gaylord Opryland.  But most inspiring is her desire to instill in others the passion she feels for her craft, as those who came before had done for her.  “My biggest goal is to mentor others as I have been mentored, I truly want to give back to an industry which believed in me, a bartender with roots in rural Kentucky, and which has given me so many amazing opportunities and experiences, an industry with lifelong friends.  I had great mentors, I hope to be the same and pay it forward while making my mentors proud.”

Guest post written by Reverend Paul Bailey

Evolution of an Annual Wine Event: Reflections of a Veteran Volunteer

  By admin | December 26, 2018 - 1:46 pm |
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Today we have a guest post from a frequent contributor that we know as Candi, CSW. Read on to see how Candi learned to navigate the risks and reap the rewards of volunteering on the wine and food festival circuit. 

For well over a decade, the major metropolitan city nearby has been the site of a wine festival. The key event is a Saturday afternoon tasting geared toward the public, adults only. The main tasting is nicely done. There are various foods to sample, wine tastings which can be geared to the chosen cuisine, hydration stations, even volunteers handing out bottled water and steering those departing to safe transportation alternatives. In summary, a wine and foodie’s paradise.

Over the past four years, an additional event has been part of the overall experience. The target audience for this occasion is trade and wine connoisseurs. Seminars detailing wine regions, marketing, advanced certifications, and other management topics such as inventory and on-premise wine programs are offered. This experience culminates in a Trade Tasting the evening prior to the main festival event. In a nutshell, a professional and geek’s “heaven”.

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2018 marked my fifth year as a volunteer. An anniversary! It has been an honor and a learning experience. My core career was in a very different industry. In 2014, I realized there was now time to pursue a true passion. Vino! So I prepared, enjoyed the study process, took a deep breath and tested for my CSW. Despite the naysayers who noted my lack of industry experience and the perceived low pass rate. I had nothing to lose. It was a quest. I went for it. I prevailed.

What I didn’t realize at the time was how highly regarded and universally recognized a CSW certification is within the hospitality industry. The credential opened the doors for me as a Somm volunteer. In fact, at my first volunteering experience, I met a Master Sommelier. We were instructed to wear all appropriate pins. Okay. The MS took one look and said “love your pin”. I confessed it was “newly minted”; turns out he is also a CWE.

Upon reflection, I believe there are many similarities between other service industries and hospitality. I’ve found that many of my core career skills have been transferable. In my experience, the key universal characteristics are as follows.

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Credentialing, determination, comebacks, and striving. As noted above, industry credentials are valued. I’ve encountered many people determined to obtain certifications and to advance. Sometimes they fail; shoot, I’ve failed before. But I’d like to believe that I still learn from such experiences. And persistence matters. I’ve met multiple Advanced Sommeliers, for example, that keep going for the red pin. They put themselves out there and don’t give up. This determination is honored.

Diversity reigns. I am, ahem, one of the more mature volunteers. It seems that most of the Somm volunteers are 30- and 40-somethings. A few younger, a few older. And I’ve read multiple mainstream articles this year about the persistent, overall problem of age discrimination. Not in my hospitality industry experience. A willingness to learn, to pitch in with whatever needs to be done, business-appropriate appearance, a positive attitude and dedication. Those attributes are respected and, in my opinion, have nothing to do with age. I have never experienced any form of bias. Period.

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Events that embrace a continuum continue to thrive and to grow. What began as a wine- and food- only event has evolved into wine, beer, spirits, food service, management, and credentialing experience. The reality is that many on-premise establishments cannot afford a wine-only skill set in today’s economy. A more comprehensive range of knowledge, skills, and attributes improves likelihood of job opportunities and advancement. Seems to apply to many work settings, doesn’t it?

Reaching out, networking and relationships are critical. Had I not had a beginning network to contact before my first opportunity, no one would have known I had a credential and wanted to help. My first opportunity was well-supervised and geared toward a small, discreet event. Who cares? I would have taken any experience offered. As I continue to volunteer each and every year, I’ve been assigned more complex tasks. And, more importantly, additional opportunities. Last year, I was able to taste wines pre-seminar with two Advanced Sommeliers and tested my very basic skills. Just by asking to observe them I was invited to the party! Unforgettable to this geek. And each year becomes a reunion of sorts with the more experienced Somms. It’s now to the point where this introvert actually enjoys connecting and even hugs!

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Details, details details. Many of us have attended wine tasting seminars. The infamous white paper placements. Each holding 4, 6, 8 10, even more wine samples. You may know the drill. Between seminars, we volunteers set up those rooms, and then pour the wines. On every such occasion for me, I’ve poured alongside general volunteers. We need those general volunteers. But they often lack a Somm volunteer’s eye for detail. In my case, attention to detail was an absolute requirement for my original career. It is natural for me to go from placemat to placemat when we are supposedly “done”. I check for missed pours; this is a special hazard for whites. Every single time, I find multiple missed pours. Back to the room lead. Request the bottle. Fix the situation. Even as attendees begin to fill the room. A quick smile and a comment “we want to make sure you can enjoy all of the wines”. Doesn’t phase me. Always a positive with the room lead.

Risk taking and risk management. Most organizations value risk-taking and people who stretch/extend. Striving to learn new skills and to get credentialed are just two examples of risk-taking. And risk management programs are also seemingly universal. Reaching out as an unknown to volunteer as a Somm after obtaining my CSW was a risk. It worked. Personal risk management clearly applies when I am tasting. Whether in a seminar, pre-seminar, trade tasting, whatever. I took a course in safe serving of alcohol before my first volunteer experience and have maintained that certification (yes, another credential). Useful when serving others, essential for my personal safety.

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Got a spare minute? Buff, polish, repeat. There is always what I call a “war room” near each group of seminar rooms. This is similar to staff rooms in other industries, where routine, as-time-permits tasks can be completed. The war room is for volunteers only (proper credentials required, thank you very much). That’s where all pre- and post-seminar activity occurs. Delivery of wines and related items, and delivery of wine glasses fresh from the commercial dishwashers. Everyone buffs and polishes glasses. Everyone, no matter how far up the chain of command.

My routine has become get my event credentials, report to the war room, check in with highest-ranking person there, and start buffing and polishing. The workload is always there. I get plenty of practice. Sometimes, I am assigned elsewhere when needed. This year, it just so happened that buff/polish was needed most during my shift. And for more than an hour after my shift. I kept going. Another quest. And the willingness to be flexible and get the job done was duly noted. Not that I expect people to keep score, but it builds credibility.

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Spontaneity and fun. Who hasn’t had some comic relief in the workplace? Maintaining a sense of humor and being open to new experiences is healthy and keeps us coming back, I think. This year, at a networking lunch, I found a table with strangers. Ended up seated between two young brothers from Hungary. They were there to promote Furmint, the currently-in-vogue dry white. They questioned me about America; I did the same about Hungary. I’ve never been to Europe, much less Hungary. We learned from each other; what an enjoyable experience!

It has been such a joy, such a privilege, so see the event grow, thrive, evolve. And to note my skills doing the same thing. I can wait until next year. Because, in the meantime, I have new wine ideas to pursue. I’d never had Franciacorta, for example.

Cin-Cin, Here’s to Learning! Cheers! Happy Holidays!

There’s a new IGP in town: Ratafia Catalana

  By admin | December 20, 2018 - 7:01 pm | , ,
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Photo via: http://ratafiabosch.cat

Photo via: http://ratafiabosch.cat

Now, I know that’s a confusing opening line. So let’s break it down…Ratafia Catalana—a traditional spirit drink produced in Catalonia—has recently been awarded Indicación Geográfica Protegida (IGP) status by Spain’s Ministry of Agriculture (known officially as the Ministerio de Agricultura, Pesca y Alimentación). This occurred on October 22, 2018.

Ratafia Catalonia is technically a green walnut-flavored liqueur with a bitter flavor profile, often served as an aperitif, digestive, or even a nightcap.

But before we get into the details…let’s clarify one more thing: the term ratafia is used in several different countries to refer to several different things. Most wine lovers are familiar with Ratafia de Champagne, a PGI-designated, fortified wine (vin de liqueur) from the Champagne region produced via the fortification of unfermented (or just-barely fermenting) grape must (juice). This style of ratafia is also produced in Burgundy (Ratafia de Bourgogne); and other wine regions produce similar style wines (such as Pineau de Charentes)—although they do not always use the term ratafia.

Photo via: http://www.russet.cat

Photo via: http://www.russet.cat

In Catalonia (as is many other parts of the Mediterranean), ratafia is something quite different. In this case, Ratafia Catalana—which has been produced in the area for over 1,000 years—is a richly flavored, sweetened, aged, and oxidized liqueur.

The newly-codified regulations define Ratafia Catalana PGI as a brown-or-amber colored, sweetened liqueur flavored with green walnuts and other botanicals. Standard production requirements include the following:

  • Alcohol content between 24% and 30% abv
  • Sugar content between 100 g/L and 400 g/L
  • Flavored with green walnuts (the dominant flavor) as well as lemon verbena, cinnamon, and cloves (other botanicals are allowed as well)
  • Aged for at least three months in wooden containers—although many are aged for much longer, and often in oxidizing conditions (such as partially-filled demijohns)
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Ratafia Catalana PGI may be produced anywhere within the Autonomous Region of Catalonia (Comunidad Autónoma de Cataluña). Some of the best-known and longest-produced commercial version of Ratafia Catalonia include Ratafia Bosch, produced since 1892 at Destilería Bosch (located in a suburb of Barcelona); and Ratafia Russet, produced in the La Garrotxa region since 1903.

If you are lucky enough to find a bottle, serve it neat (as an aperitif) before a meal, or pour it over ice and serve it alongside a dessert such as Crema Catalana, the cake-like Coca de Sant Joan, or with some of the local Catalan cheeses drizzled with honey (as in the dish known as Mel i Mató). Of course, it also works a digestive or a nightcap…or just about any time you need a break.

References/for more information:

PGI documents: IGP Ratafia Catalana

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles – SWE’s Director of Education and Certification –  jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Welcome to the World, Van Duzer Corridor AVA!

  By admin | December 14, 2018 - 12:57 pm |
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The Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade and Tax Bureau (TTB) of the United States has approved a new American Viticultural Area (AVA), to be known as the Van Duzer Corridor AVA. The new AVA—covering approximately 59,871 acres in portions of Polk and Yamhill Counties in Oregon—lies directly to the west of (and along the western border of) the Eola-Amity Hills AVA, and is entirely within the boundaries of established Willamette Valley AVA. This brings the total number of AVAs in the US to 244, and a total of 19 in Oregon.

The Van Duzer Corridor AVA will be in effect as of January 14, 2019.  According to the TTB’s statement, there are 18 commercially-producing vineyards covering a total of approximately 1,000 acres of vines and 6 wineries—including Van Duzer Vineyards, Firesteed Winery, and Left Coast Cellars—located within the boundaries of the new AVA.

Map of the Van Duzer Corridor AVA, via the original petition (TTB website)

Map of the Van Duzer Corridor AVA, via the original petition (TTB website)

The AVA petition acknowledges that the area within the Van Duzer Corridor shares many features with the surrounding areas; however, the region is sufficiently unique to have been established as a separate AVA…particularly due to its winds. The distinguishing features of the area include the following:

  • The elevation: The Van Duzer Corridor itself is a narrow tunnel-like “wind gap” (area of low elevation) tucked into the Coastal Ranges. Commercial vineyards in the area are planted at an elevations ranging from 150 feet to 650 feet above sea level.  The areas located to the north, south, and west of the Van Duzer Corridor AVA are far more mountainous, with elevations ranging from 600 feet to 2,000 feet above sea level.
  • The winds: The new AVA is located at the eastern edge of this wind gap where the tunnel-like area of low elevation expands into a wide  region of rolling hills that allow the cool, eastward-flowing marine air to flow relatively unimpeded. According to the petition, the average daily wine speed in the Van Duzer Corridor AVA is approximately 10 miles per hour—nearly twice the average speed of the surrounding areas.
  • The climate: The average temperature of the Van Duzer Corridor AVA is consistently cooler than the surrounding areas. The Van Duzer Corridor area averages several hundred cumulative degree days fewer than the surrounding areas during the growing season. For instance, in 2014, the McMinnville AVA had a total of 2819 growing degree days (GDD), while the Van Duzer Corridor had 2624 GGD. This lower overall temperature leads to a longer growing season, longer “hangtime,” and—combined with the effects of the wind—thicker-skinned grapes.

Fun Fact: the original petition, filed by Jeff Havlin—chairman of the Van Duzer Corridor AVA Committee and owner of Havlin Vineyard—in 2011, listed the AVA’s name as “Perrydale Hills.” However, the TTB determined that the suggested name did not have sufficient national recognition (“viticultural significance”) and the name was eventually changed to Van Duzer Corridor.

Welcome to the world, Van Duzer Corridor AVA!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles – SWE’s Director of Education and Certification –  jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Welcome to the World, Upper Hudson AVA!

  By admin | December 10, 2018 - 1:52 pm | ,
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The Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade and Tax Bureau (TTB) of the United States has approved a new American Viticultural Area (AVA), to be known as the Upper Hudson AVA. The new AVA will be in effect as of January 7, 2019.

The new AVA covers approximately 1,500 square miles in upstate New York, mainly located to the north and northeast of the city of Albany.  This brings the total number of AVAs in the US to 243.

The petition for the Upper Hudson AVA was originally submitted in July of 2015 by Kathleen and Andrew Weber of Northern Cross Vineyard. The new AVA lies to the north of the Hudson River Region AVA (established in 1982), but it does not overlap the boundaries of any existing AVAs.

The vineyards in the area are currently heavily planted to cold-hardy hybrids including Marquette, Frontenac, La Crescent, La Crosse, Itasca, Prairie Star, and Melody. Many of these grapes were developed at New York’s Cornell University or by Elmer Swenson at University of Minnesota specifically for cold climates. Some vinifera varieties (such as Muscat, Tai, and Cabernet Franc) are planted as well.

Boundary of the Upper Hudson AVA - from the AVA Petition (second boundary amendment) via the TTB

Boundary of the Upper Hudson AVA – from the AVA Petition (second boundary amendment) via the TTB

According to the original petition, the Upper Hudson AVA has a distinctly colder climate and shorter growing season than the surrounding areas. This is in large part due to the fact that many of the surrounding areas experience the temperature modifications of a nearby body of water (such as the Great Lakes to the north, and the Hudson River to the south). There is no such moderating influence on much of the area of the Upper Hudson AVA.

The Upper Hudson AVA is currently home to just over a dozen 20 wineries and vineyards—including Northern Cross Vineyard, Altamont Winery, and Hummingbird Hills Winery—and more than 60 acres (24 ha) of vines.

Welcome to the world, Upper Hudson AVA!

References/for more information

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles – SWE’s Director of Education and Certification –  jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

On the Radar: Elizabeth Yabrudy, CWE

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  By admin | December 5, 2018 - 3:42 pm |
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Meet Elizabeth Yabrudy: the only Venezuelan, and the only South American, to have achieved the Certified Wine Educator designation from the Society of Wine Educators.

A journalist with a M.Sc. in Electronic Publishing from City University London, Elizabeth’s interest in wine began in 2007, when she took an introductory class in wine at Bodegas Pomar, the only winery in Venezuela.  The class inspired her to explore the wine world on an informal basis, which ended up leading her to attend the Academia de Sommelier de Venezuela.  During her preparation, she did internships with Pernod Ricard and Diageo and invested herself in study.  She became a sommelier in 2009, and later that year traveled to Bordeaux and took an intensive course in the wines of France.  Then, about the year 2010, she was asked by an aunt to teach an introductory wine class in the aunt’s hometown of Carupano, and that experience was all it took.  Having been introduced to both teaching and serving as a sommelier in a restaurant, it became clear to her that she did not want to be a floor sommelier, but rather a wine educator.

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Around 2012, she began to explore more formal study options, and chose the Society of Wine Educators specifically because of the emphasis upon wine education.  She passed her CSW in December 2014, having had to travel to Montevideo, Uruguay, for the exam because there was no testing center in Venezuela. That’s dedication!  Along the way, she became involved in a project called the Diageo Bar Academy; she already had some knowledge of spirits but wanted to go deeper, so she took the CSS test in 2016.  While preparing with the CSS Study Guide, she reached the section on rum, and was delighted that at last she would be reading about something with which she was familiar, as Venezuela is an important rum producing country.  As such, she reached out to Jane Nickles, SWE’s Director of Education, and agreed to write an updated  segment on Venezuelan rum  just in time for the annual update of the CSS Study Guide. (See page 113 in the 2018 version of the CSS Study Guide for a sample of Elizabeth’s work!)

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During her preparation time for the CWE, she was working as an independent professional, teaching about wine to beginners and non-professionals, and offering formal courses like: Wine for Amateurs, Wine Aromas Recognition Workshop, Wine Varietals Recognition Workshop, and Oratory for Sommeliers Workshop.  Focused preparation is essential for the CWE, and Elizabeth took advantage of the many study tools the SWE offers, such as the CWE Study Site and the Facebook Group. In addition, she attended the CWE Boot Camp in 2017 and 2018, and as a result was part of only 12% of the people who pass the CWE on their first try.

Wine is now a part of who Elizabeth is.  She writes:  “I enjoy and respect working with wine.  I feel I am very fortunate because I managed to combine my passion for wine with my professional title as Journalist and Electronic Publisher.  For me, working with wine is a pleasure and a continual learning process.  It is a nonstop career.  It is not only about tasting, it is about learning history, culture, geography, agriculture, chemistry, enology, and gastronomy.  Being a wine educator also gives you the advantage of meeting people, people who can learn from you, and people whose curiosity you can awaken to learn more about and–as I did—fall in love with wine.”

Elizabeth is a Certified Wine Educator, Certified Specialist of Wine, Certified Specialist of Spirits, and a Sommelier from the Academia de Sommeliers de Venezuela.  She lives in Caracas and manages the tasting room of a store called Celicor Boutique, where, among other things, she plans and leads events.  She is looking forward to continuing her studies in wine and plans to keep her full focus on wine education.  Thank you for your work, Elizabeth!

Guest post written by Reverend Paul Bailey

New Grape Varieties approved for Austrian Wine

  By admin | November 28, 2018 - 3:09 pm | ,
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Vineyards in Kamptal - photo via: www.austrianwine.com

Vineyards in Kamptal – photo via: www.austrianwine.com

The Austrian Wine Marketing Board has just made a big announcement: four new grape varieties have been added to the list of “approved” varieties for use in the PGI and PDO wines of Austria! This makes for a total of 40 approved grapes, including 14 red and 26 white varieties, all of which will be valid for use as of the 2018 vintage.  All of the newly-approved grape varieties are white.

Here is a bit more information on these grapes:

Blütenmuskateller: Blütenmuskateller is a hybrid white grape variety created in Russia (then the USSR) in 1947. It is a somewhat complicated combination of Severny (itself a vinifera X amurensis hybrid) crossed with Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains. In Russia, the grape was known as Cvetocny (Cvetochny). The grape is renowned for its ability to achieve high sugar content and is often used in sweet wines. Wines based on Blütenmuskateller tend to show “grape-y” Muscat-like notes in addition to aromas of tropical fruit, flowers, perfume, and sweet spices such as nutmeg.

Goldmuskateller: Goldmuskateller is a golden-berried version of Muscat believed to be native to northern Italy—where it is known as Moscato Giallo and used in some of the DOC wines of Trentino and Alto Adige. It is most likely a descendant of Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains. Goldmuskateller is often used to produce sweet wines, but dry wines can be delightful as well. Goldmuskateller-based wines tend to show the rich fruit, “grape-like” aromas common to Muscat as well a deep yellow-gold color and musky-spicy-floral aromas and flavors.

Vineyards in Bergland - photo via: www.austrianwine.com

Vineyards in Bergland – photo via: www.austrianwine.com

Muscaris: Muscaris is a German-bred hybrid grape created via the combining of Solaris (a white-skinned hybrid of Merzling and Geisenheim) X Muskateller (Muscat). Muscaris grapes tend to develop high levels of sugar and acidity, making them a good choice for sparkling wines. Typical aromas include lemon, orange, tangerine, and “musky perfume.”

Souvignier Gris: Souvignier Gris is a pink-skinned, German-bred hybrid grape created via the union of Cabernet Sauvignon and Bronner (a white-skinned hybrid of Merzling and Geisenheim). Souvignier Gris is known for high must weights and somewhat neutral fruity-floral aromas reminiscent of Pinot Blanc.

Three of the new grape varieties—Blütenmuskateller, Muscaris, and Souvignier Gris—are considered to be particularly resistant to fungal diseases such as powdery mildew and downy mildew. Such grapes are known as “PIWI” varieties (Pi = Pilz [fungus]; wi = widerstandsfähig [resistant]) and are well-suited to organic and sustainable viticulture.

Vineyards in Styria - photo via: www.austrianwine.com

Vineyards in Styria – photo via: www.austrianwine.com

Wine students might find it surprising that the list of newly-approved grape varieties includes hybrids. However, Austria has included hybrids (specifically Ráthay and Roesler) on its list of approved varieties for several years.

Click here for an updated list of:  The Austria 40-wine grapes approved for use in Austria

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles – SWE’s Director of Education and Certification –  jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

The Darnibole PDO

  By admin | November 17, 2018 - 9:45 am | ,
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England and Wales have both had a set of PGI- and PDO-designated regulations for certain wines (both still and sparkling) since 2007. These regulations are approved for a range of grapes (including Chardonnay, Bacchus, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, and about 60 other grapes) and encompass the entirety of the countries’ geographical areas—save for those spots with an elevation higher than 220 meters (722 feet) above sea level.

However, since early 2017 England has also had a PDO for one very specific wine—Darnibole Bacchus—grown in one very specific 5-hectare (12.4-acre) plot and produced at one very specific winery. To date, Darnibole is the only single-vineyard wine in the UK to be awarded PDO status. Sounds interesting!

For starters, Darnibole PDO wine may only be produced at the Camel Valley Winery, located in Cornwall County in south east England. Darnibole PDO is a dry white wine made from 100% Bacchus grapes.

The regulations for Darnibole PDO are quite specific, and include the following:

  • Must be produced from 100% Bacchus grapes, grown in the specified region
  • Must be hand-harvested, and crushing must begin within 2 hours of the completion of the harvest
  • May not be acidified, de-acidified, chaptalized, or sweetened
  • Must be cold-pressed with minimal pressure and cold-fermented to dryness
  • May be racked and fined, but no animal products may be used at any point in the production process
  • Must be bottled under screw cap
Photo via: www.camelvalley.com/gallery

Photo via: www.camelvalley.com/gallery

The PDO application and document declare that the Bacchus wine produced in Darnibole is sufficiently different from the other Bacchus-based wines produced in England to warrant its own PDO, and may be described as follows: “Fresh with an expression of minerality providing for apple or gooseberry notes beginning at the front and persisting throughout. Occasionally, notes of kumquat and white peach appear and grassy notes at the end. Less obviously fruit-driven and more mineral than other Bacchus.”

The Darnibole PDO is of particular interest at this point in time, as it remains to be seen how the United Kingdom-based geographical indications (which include Scotch Whiskey, Irish Whiskey, and Stilton Cheese in addition to other products) will be handled after the UK exits the EU (if this does indeed come to pass). The subject was discussed a few weeks ago on the Drinks Business website.

 References/for more information:

 Post authored by Jane A. Nickles – SWE’s Director of Education and Certification –  jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Austria’s Styria presents: Junker Wine 2018!

  By admin | November 13, 2018 - 10:32 am |
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Photo via: www.steirischerwein.at

Photo via: www.steirischerwein.at

Austria’s Styria presents: Junker Wine 2018!

First things first: It’s pronounced yun-ker. 

There have been some significant changes to the wine regulations of Austria’s Steiermark (Styria) region this year. For instance, all three of the wine-producing regions within the Federal State of Styria—Vulkanland Steiermark, Südsteiermark, and Weststeiermark—were declared to be Districtus Austriae Controllatus (DAC) regions. And just like that, the Schilcherland DAC, which was approved as a DAC for dry rosé produced using the Blauer Wildbacher variety in October of 2017, is now gone (poof!) although the famous Schilcher Rosé will continue to be produced under the new Weststeiermark DAC.

Specific details (and EU approval) of these new DACs is still in the works, so more details—as well as changes—are expected in the next few months. We’ll do our best to keep you posted.

However, it’s good to note that one thing remains unchanged, and that is the tradition of Der Steirische Junker (the release of the year’s first wines of Styria) on the Wednesday before Saint Martin’s Day (November 11). This year, the release fell on Wednesday, November 7.

Photo via: www.steirischerwein.at

Photo via: www.steirischerwein.at

Junker is a wine you’ll most likely need to travel to experience. These young, fresh, and fruity “nouveau” wines are produced in red, white, and rosé versions and may be made using any of the approved grapes of the region.

The release of Junker wine has been accompanied by huge Präsentationen held (since 1995) in Graz (the capital of Styria) and Wien (Vienna) to celebrate the new wines of the year produced in Styria. This year, over 200 Junker wines were released, including included those produced using the following varieties: Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Chardonnay (known here as Morillon), Pinot Blanc (Weissburgunder), Welschriesling, Pinot Gris (Grauburgunder),  Traminer, and Blauer Wildbacher (Schilcher).

From the looks of the pictures on the Junkerpräsentation website, it might be worth a trip.

References/for more information:

  • https://www.austrianwine.com/our-wine/wine-growing-regions/steiermark-styria/
  • https://www.austrianwine.com/our-wine/glossary/?tx_a21glossary%5Bletter%5D=J&cHash=811f21096db518a3e201d9a63e068541
  • https://www.steiermark.com/en/styria/destinations-for-day-trips/styrian-junker-presentation_p905227
  • https://www.steiermark.com/en/holiday/food-and-drink/delicatessen-stores/wine/grape-varieties
Post authored by Jane A. Nickles – SWE’s Director of Education and Certification –  jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org