Welcome to the World, Terras do Navia IGP!

terrasdonaviaAs published in the February 15 (2023) edition of the Official Journal of the European Union, the EU has announced the approval of a new IGP wine region for Spain: Terras do Navia, located in Galicia. The traditional term for Spain’s IGP regions is Vino de la Tierra (VdlT), and as such, this new appellation may show on wine labels as Vino de la Tierra—Terras do Navia.

The new IGP will cover an area surrounding the Río Navia (Navia River) close to the eastern edge of the province of Lugo. This is a moderately high-elevation area located within the western reaches of the Cantabrian Mountains (Cordillera Cantábrica). The surrounding mountains reach elevations up to 1,000 meters/f3,280 feet above sea level, while the majority of the vineyards are situated at 200 to 500 meters/656 to 1,640 feet asl. Most of the vines are planted on south and south-west facing slopes, which provide some protection from the maritime influences coming in from the coast (45 km/29 miles away). The climate is described as mostly Mediterranean but includes transitional microclimates exhibiting Maritime and Continental influences as well. The finest vineyards are those with south/southwest aspect and abundant sunshine (due to elevation).

The Terras do Navia IGP is approved for white wines (blanco) and red wines (tinto). The regulations governing these wines include the following:

  • Blanco/White Wines:
    • Approved varieties: Albariño, Caíño Blanco, Godello, Loureira, Torrontés, and Treixadura
    • Minimum alcohol by volume: 11.5%
    • Flavor profile, as per the pliego de condiciones: fresh and smooth, highly aromatic (fruity and floral), well-balanced with crisp acidity
  • Tinto/Red Wines:
    • Approved varieties: Brancellao, Bruñal, Caíño Tinto, Loureiro Tinto, Mencía, and/or Merenzao (Trousseau)
    • Minimum alcohol by volume: 10%
    • Flavor profile, as per the pliego de condiciones: fresh and smooth, aromas of ripe red fruit (strawberry, blackberry, cherry, and cranberry), moderate alcohol, moderate tannin; oak aging is advisable but not required
Map of the Terras do Navia map (within Galicia)

Map of the Terras do Navia map (within Galicia)

The Terras do Navia IGP is scheduled to enter into force by March 8, 2023. According to the latest list of geographical indications from the Spanish Ministry of Agriculture (updated in September of 2022), Terras do Navia will be the 43rd VdlT/IGP wine region in Spain. Terras do Navia represents the fifth VdlT area in Galicia—joining Barbanza e Iria, Betanzos, Ribeiras do Morrazo, and Valle del Miño-Ourense. As well-versed wine students already know, Galicia is also home to five Denominaciones de Origen (DOs) for wine: Monterrei, Ribeira Sacra, Ribeiro, Rías Baixas, and Valdeorras.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

 

Singani (now recognized by the TTB)!

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As of January 12, 2023, the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) of the United States has recognized Singani as a specifically defined type of brandy and a distinctive product of Bolivia. Singani has been legally defined in the Plurinational State of Bolivia (Bolivia) since 1992, when the government established a set of regulations regarding the spirit’s production as well as a protected denomination of origin (DO) for Singani.

  • Under the TTB rules, Singani is produced and labeled in accordance with the laws of Bolivia. These regulations include the following:
    • Distilled from grape wine (or pomace) made of vitis vinifera grapes
    • Grapes must be grown within the defined growing region—described as those areas within the departments of Chuquisaca, Tarija, Potosi, and La Paz at a minimum altitude of 1,600 meters/5,250 feet above sea level.
    • The product must also be prepared, distilled, and bottled within the defined growing region.
    • Under the Bolivian code, several different categories of Singani are defined, including “High-Altitude Singani” which must be produced exclusively from Muscat of Alexandria grapes, and “Singani Second Selection” which may include grape pomace.
    • Singani is not typically aged in wood, and wood aging is not required.
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Map of Bolvia

The TTB definition of Singani follows the Bolivian standards for the product with the exception of the minimum bottling proof. Bolivian rules allow Singani to be bottled at a minimum of 35% abv; however, for those products so labeled in the United States, the minimum abv for all types of unflavored brandy—including Singani—is 40%.

With this new rule, Singani joins the list of products that are specifically defined and regulated under the TTB general class definition of brandy—those already on the list include Cognac, Armagnac, Pisco, Applejack, Calvados, Kirschwasser, and Slivovitz.

Click here for a relief map of Bolivia  that clearly shows the high-altitude regions in the western reaches of the country.

Cheers to Singani!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Guest Post: Walla Walla Wine Country—the Soils with a Story

A Red Barn in the wheat field of the Palouse, Washington State,Today we have a guest post from Darla Hoffmann, CS, CSW. Darla tells us about her recent trip to the Walla Walla Wine Country with a special focus on the vineyard soils.

While visiting Walla Walla, it’s hard not to glorify the impact of the Missoula Floods. The massive amounts of water that plowed through this part of the earth 12,000 to 18,000 years ago created the rugged mountain formations and current landscapes. It left behind an array of soils from loess, silt, sand, and volcanic in some parts to marine sedimentary and granite in others. This catastrophic event brought such fortune to the present-day terrain and is largely responsible for the beauty and agriculture that now exists.

Walla Walla is approximately a four-hour drive from Boise, Idaho. The drive curves along parts of the Snake River and leads to a dramatic sighting of wheat farms that blanket both sides of the road. An important piece of the economy, I appreciated the views of unharvested wheat for miles. However, we ultimately saw the combine harvesters hard at work and, imagined the auspicious state of affairs for bread, baked goods, and beer.

Photo credit: Darla Hoffman

Photo credit: Darla Hoffman

The Walla Walla region has become one of the Northwest’s most important wine-producing regions. The Walla Walla Valley is a sub-AVA within the Columbia Valley. Two-thirds of the AVA is in Washington and one-third is in Oregon.  The Milton-Freewater Rocks District is a sub-ava within the Walla Walla Valley that resides completely in Oregon. As of 2018, about 56.7% of the vines were grown in Washington and 43.3% in Oregon, with 25.8% of Oregon plantings in The Rocks District. Even though a large amount of fruit comes from the Oregon side, most of the wineries are in Washington with only a handful in Oregon.

The sunny region enjoys cool evening temperatures, with minimal rainfall due to its location east of the Cascade Mountains. These diurnal shifts are responsible for the high acid and alcohol levels developed in the grapes. The climate crisis has been challenging for the region as every year is hotter than the last. Walla Walla’s hot summers and cold winters deem thicker-skinned, hearty grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah preferred plantings. Bordeaux varieties like Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Malbec also thrive in these parts. Although it’s mostly red wine country, Chardonnay and Riesling are some of the whites that have made a name for themselves.

SAMSUNG CSCAs the wine belt indicates, the appropriate latitude for grape growing is anywhere between 30° and 50°. Walla Walla sits at 46°; if you draw a line across the globe, you’d notice 46° is midway between Burgundy and Bordeaux in France. Although Bordeaux has long warm sunny days, it is unlike Walla Walla in that it is influenced by a maritime climate. Nonetheless, what makes these regions similar is that they both owe their soils to the freezing and melting of glaciers of years ago. The deposit of these rocks and gravel provides excellent drainage and helps absorb and radiate heat both at the grapes and into the soils beneath.

Moreover, the Rhone Valley of France, sitting at about 44° latitude on the map just south of Burgundy, has an abundance of rocky soils – like what you will find in the Walla Walla Valley. Syrah, native to the Rhone Valley, adapts well to these rocky soils. The Milton-Freewater Rocks District AVA in Oregon’s Walla Walla Valley is named and known by these infamous rocks. Furthermore, some distinct aromas and flavors come from The Rocks District. Although the climate is mostly consistent all over Walla Walla, wine from this region delivers funkier, smoky, almost gamey notes. These characteristics are commonly found in Syrah from the Rhone Valley as well. Some say this is a by-product of the precious, rocky soils.

Photo Credit: Darla Hoffman

Photo Credit: Darla Hoffman

There are approximately 120 wineries in the Walla Walla region, considered the unofficial capital of Washington Wine Country. Although not as widely sourced for retail nationwide as wine from California, or even the Willamette Valley, Oregon, they are gaining more visibility each year. The Walla Walla Valley is the three-time defending champion (2020-2022) and five-time finalist (2018-2022) in USA Today’s annual 10 best reader’s choice awards for America’s Best Wine Region. A few of my winery recommendations include Va Piano, Canvasback, Caprio Cellars, and Balboa Winery in Washington—along with Ducleaux Cellars, Rôtie Cellars, and Watermill Winery in Oregon.

About the author: Darla Hoffmann is a wine and travel journalist, Certified Sommelier, Certified Specialist of Wine, and owner of About Wine, a wine education and marketing company. Darla is a freelance writer and has her own blog on wine and travel throughout the world. She was the lead writer for AZ UNCORKED/the Arizona Wine Festival and The Arizona Wine Guide. Darla is a current member of the International Food, Wine & Travel Writers Association (IFWTWA), The Society of Wine Educators, and The Wine Century Club. She conducts wine classes and tastings at various venues all over the country and provides sales and marketing support to the wine industry in the form of tasting videos, articles & blogs, events, and staff education, account development, and client relationships. You can contact Darla via her website.

 

Welcome to the World, Gabilan Mountains AVA!

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer (click to enlarge)

On August 15 (2022), the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States announced the approval of the Gabilan Mountains American Viticultural Area (AVA). The new AVA is located entirely within the existing Central Coast AVA, slightly inland from the town of Salinas—and covering portions of Monterey and San Benito Counties.

The Gabilan Mountains AVA surrounds the existing Mt. Harlan and Chalone AVAs and is located adjacent/just slightly west of the San Benito, Paicines, Cienega Valley, and Lime Kiln Valley AVAs. The status of these AVAs will not change.

According to the original petition—written by Parker Allen of Coastview Vineyards and originally submitted in 2018—the distinguishing features of the Gabilan Mountains AVA include its elevation, climate, and soils—as described below.

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    Elevation: The Gabilan Mountains AVA is located in a mountainous region that places it at a significantly higher elevation than the surrounding areas. The average elevation within the AVA is 2,370 feet—above the heavy fog and marine layer that often affects other regions in the vicinity.

  • Climate: The Gabilan Mountains AVA has an overall cool climate. However, as previously mentioned, the Gabilan Mountains AVA has significantly less fog and cloud cover—and therefore more sunshine—than the surrounding areas. It also receives more rainfall by comparison; the area within the Gabilan Mountains AVA receives an average of 17.24 inches of rain per year (with over 12 of these received during the fall and winter months). By contrast, the area to the north receives 14.19 inches per year; the area just to the south receives just over 12 inches annually.
  • Soils: The soils of the Gabilan Mountains AVA are described as moderately coarse in texture, rich in calcium due to high limestone content, and supported by granite bedrock. These quick-draining soils are renowned for their ability to stress the vines during the growing season, resulting in thick-skinned, flavorful grapes. By contrast, the surrounding areas contain more find-to-medium textured alluvial soils, the result of past floods.
Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer (click to enlarge)

When the Gabilan Mountains AVA is brought into force—on September 14, 2022—the total number of AVAs in the United States will be 267; of these, 147 will be in California.

Welcome to the world, Gabilan Mountains AVA!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Türkiye to Visit, Turkey to Eat

Map TurkeyThe government of Turkey (the country) has officially changed the English name of the country to Türkiye (tur-key-YAY), the spelling and pronunciation used in the Turkish language. As of June (2022), the United Nations has approved the change and mapmakers everywhere are sure to follow suit.

Wine lovers recognize Türkiye as a transcontinental Eurasian country located in the Caucasus Region. Situated just to the south/southwest of Georgia, Türkiye is among the oldest wine-producing regions of the world.

Türkiye is home to over 600 Indigenous vinifera varieties; of these, at least 60—including Yapıncak (white), Papazkarası (red), Öküzgözü (red), Boğazkere (red), and Çalkarası (red)—are used for commercial wine production. International varieties—to include Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon—are also grown.

Istanbul at Sunset

Istanbul at Sunset

According to the OIV, as of 2018, the country contained 448,000 hectares of vines. The country is consistently among the top ten countries in the world in terms of vineyard acreage. However, Türkiye is also one of the leading global producers of table grapes and raisins—so only a portion of the vineyard crop is used for wine.

Students of distilled spirits will recognize Raki—an anise-flavored spirit as the national drink of Türkiye. When mixed with ice or water, raki turns milky white and due to this color, its sturdy levels of alcohol—many versions are 45% to 50% abv—and a plethora of local legends, raki is often referred to as lion’s milk (aslan sütü). Raki was originally produced from the pomace left over from winemaking. However, when pomace was in short supply, spirits were imported and processed with aniseed. Today, high-quality raki is produced from grapes—primarily of the Sultana and Razaki varieties, both of which are primarily table grapes and likely native to the country.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

The Dance of the (Hungarian) Pálinka

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Hungary—a landlocked country in Central Europe tucked between Austria, Slovakia, Romania, Ukraine, Slovenia, Croatia, Serbia, and Bosnia—is serious about fruit spirits. So much so that it currently has 13 individual products—various versions of Pálinka—protected as geographical indications (GI) specific to Hungary. With very few exceptions (explained below), Hungary is the only country (under EU laws) that may use the term Pálinka to refer to these products.

The Hungarian lock on the use of the term Pálinka—relatively new by modern standards—was ratified by EU Law LXXIII (based on the EU definition of fruit spirits and often referred to as “pálinka law), passed in 2008.

Prior to this legislation—as far back as the seventeenth century—the term Pálinka was widely used in Central Europe to refer to spirits of many kinds. This included fruit spirits—plum was the most widely used—and grape-based brandy as well as spirits derived from rye, wheat, corn, sugar beets, or buckwheat (among others).  The term Pálinka was, for many generations, used somewhat interchangeably with schnapps—a word which still defies strict definition.

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These days—per the well-detailed regulations of the Pálinka GI—the term may be used for any fruit-based spirit produced in Hungary. The product specification is quite detailed as to the processing and fermentation of the fruit but does allow for either pot still or column still distillation as well as both unaged and aged expressions. The list of approved base ingredients includes apples, pears, quince, cherries, plums, apricots, peaches, strawberries, raspberries, “wild berries,” and grapes.

The only other country that is allowed to use the term Pálinka is Austria—and the rules regarding Austrian Pálinka are much more specific, quite stringent, and based on historical precedent. For starters, it must be based solely on apricots—no other fruit is allowed. Double distillation in a pot still is mandatory for Austrian Pálinka, and only a few specific regions—Niederösterreich, Burgenland, Styria, and Vienna (Wien) are included in the production zone.

The production of distilled spirits in Central Europe is believed to have begun as far back as the Middle Ages. The first written record referring to Hungarian distillates can be traced back to the year 1330. However, at this time, most of the local spirits were made from wheat, rye, or other grains. Spirits produced from fruit became the leading type of distillate in the region beginning in 1459, when—during a famine—King Mathias forbid the distillation of anything that could be used to make bread. By the 1600s, the term Pálinka—based on the Slavic stem word paliti meaning “to burn” or “to distill”—was used to refer to these spirits.

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The first GI for Hungarian Pálinka was awarded in 2003. The latest—Homokháti Őszibarack Pálinka—was approved just last month (March 7, 2022). Homokháti Őszibarack Palinka is described as having a “fine, discreet aroma reminiscent” of ripe peaches, citrus, and a hint of marzipan. It is double-distilled in a pot still using the mash of ripe peaches grown in the Homokhátság—an area located on the flatlands between the Danube and Tisza rivers and known as the Great Sand Ridge.

  • The 13 Pálinka geographical indications that have thus far been awarded to Hungary are as follows:
    • (Hungarian Fruit): Hungarian Pálinka GI—may be produced throughout Hungary from a range of fruit (typically apples, pears, quinces, plums, apricots, grapes, and/or cherries).
    • (Grape Marc): Törkölypálinka GI—Grape marc spirit, may be produced throughout Hungary
    • (Quince): Madarasi Birspálinka GI—Quince spirit from Bács-Kiskun County
    • (Quince): Nagykunsági Birspálinka GI—Quince spirit from the Nagykunság Region (Jász-Nagykun-Szolnok County)
    • (Pear): Vasi Vadkörte Pálinka GI—Pear spirit from Vas and Zala Counties
    • (Apple): Szabolcsi Almapálinka GI—Apple spirit from Szabolcs-Szatmár-Bereg County
    • (Peach): Homokháti Őszibarack Pálinka GI—Peach spirit from the Homokhátság area (Bács-Kiskun and Csongrad Counties)
    • (Sour Cherry): Újfehértói Meggypálinka GI—Sour cherry spirit from Szabolcs-Szatmár-Bereg County
    • (Apricot): Gönci Barackpálinka GI—Apricot spirit from the town of Gönc (Borsod-Abaúj-Zemplén County)
    • (Apricot): Kecskeméti Barackpálinka GI—Apricot spirit from the Kecskemét Region (Bács-Kiskun County)
    • (Plum): Békési Szilvapálinka GI—Plum spirit from the town of Békés (Békés County)
    • (Plum): Szatmári Szilvapálinka GI—Plum spirit from Szabolcs-Szatmár-Bereg County
    • (Plum): Nagykunsági Szilvapálinka GI—Plum spirit from Jász-Nagykun-Szolnok County
  • Similar products/similar terms include:  
    • Austria (Apricot): Austrian Pálinka GI—Apricot (Barack) Pálinka may be produced in the Austrian regions of Niederösterreich (Lower Austria), Burgenland, Styria, and Vienna (Wien). It should be noted that these regions are located on the eastern edge of Austria, adjacent to the border with Hungary and Slovakia.
    • Romania: Romanian Pălincă GI may be produced from any type of fruit grown in Romania.  Despite the similarity in the terms, this product is legally distinct from Pálinka.
    • Czech Republic, Slovakia: In the Czech Republic and Slovakia, various types of spirits—fruit spirits in particular—are known as Pálenka. This term does not, however, have an official definition nor GI protection.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Guest Post: Mediterranean Magic at Bodega Alta Alella Mirgín (DO Alella)

Braving the heat surrounded by glorious nature

Braving the heat surrounded by glorious nature

Today we have a guest post from Caroline Abbott who is visiting Bodega Alta Alella Mirgin in the Catalonia’s Alella DO. Caroline wrote this piece following a 29-day trip around Spain during which she visited 17 wineries and traversed over 4,000 km (2,500miles) along Spain’s eastern coast. We thought it made for an excellent “travel daydream” in these difficult-to-travel times.

The Mediterranean’s blue-green waves glitter in the background, the sun shines brightly, threatened by impending charcoal clouds. The vineyards’ leaves and branches sway in the saline sea breeze, the vines are heavy with grape clusters ready to be picked at the harvest that has already begun.

I am at Bodega Alta Alella Mirgín, the closet winery to Barcelona situated on the Costa del Maresme, 20km from the city center. Nestled in the Parque Natural Serralada de Marina, the property actually stands in two towns, Alella and Tiana, and prides itself on its organic farming ethos and family-owned origins. Founded by the previous Technical Director of Sparkling for Martini & Rossi Josep María Pujol-Busquets Guilléns and his wife Cristina, it is now mostly now run by his daughters Mireia and Georgina, a biologist and nutritionist who dedicate themselves to the family trade with dedication and precision.

Gorgeous concrete eggs

Gorgeous concrete eggs

The visit is graciously given by Valérie Veilleux, the Brand Ambassador who is a whiz at all things marketing, communication, wine tourism, distributor management, languages (she speak 4 languages and oversees the translations for everything) – you name it! We had met at the Salón de Vinos Radicales in Madrid back in February (before all of our lives changed due to the wretched virus) and I was instantly hooked, spending more time at her table and taking copious notes than at any other. I promised to visit, and a mere six months later, here I was, with those same notes in hand, ready to link the impressive wines tasted to their origins.

A small, vivacious woman with a big grin, warm heart, and razor-sharp mind, she meets me at the entrance in a huge, dusty Cadillac and proceeds to drive me all around the vineyards, explaining every feature with extreme detail and gusto. I barely have to ask any questions, as an astonishing wealth of information pours forth regarding anything and everything related to the property and wines. Set in an amphitheatre-shaped area between 50 and 320 meters above sea level, their main varietals include Pansa Blanca, better known as the Cava star Xarel-lo, Pansa Rosada, a clone of Xarel-lo with little tannin and beautiful dusty-pink grapes, Chardonnay, Macabeo (Viura), Syrah, and Mataró (Catalán for Monastrell).

Heaven in a bottle

Heaven in a bottle

The soil is called sauló, a very fertile granitic sandy subsoil formed by a geological substrate of granites that, in certain environmental and hydrological conditions, decompose very easily, forming the soil characteristic of this area. Its high acidity, low limestone content, and good natural drainage create the perfect combination for the minerality and salinity expressed in the wines. I had never experienced vineyards such as these, with so much natural vegetation that varies significantly from parcel to parcel (aromatic herbs, edible flowers, bamboo, pine trees, and the rieras – sandy flooding zones at the lowest elevation with an almost tropical climate.

After the in-depth explanation of the terroir, she leads me to the winery, bustling with staff cleaning and shutting down after a long, hot day of harvesting and pressing. She leads me into a unique cellar with barrels and bottles for aging right across from a rock wall of the same granite on which we had just walked. I am pretty sure that was the most “natural” cellar I have ever seen! She explained what the fun contraptions in the winery were, such as milk machines for cryo-maceration, tiny tanks for micro-macerations, and several concrete eggs they have recently discovered as perfect for Pansa Rosada, as the concrete provides just the perfect amount of tannins and the natural bâtonnage brings out the complexity and mouthfeel so pleasing on the palate. They even had an artist manufacture some special amphorae made with a percentage of their sauló soil for that added “terroir factor”.

The aging cellar

The aging cellar

Our last stop before stopping in the shop to pick up some bottles to take with us was in the Cava Vella, the cellar with the prized last few bottles of previous vintages and the incredible Mirgin Exeo and Opus Cavas, aged entirely with a cork and with the rémuage and dégorgement scrupulously completed dry and by hand (without the usual freezing of the necks to remove the yeast). What a treat to see all of this in person!

A quick stop by the wine tourism center with a sleek kitchen and underground events space concluded the visit. We chose a Mirgin Opus Cava de Paraje Calificado and 2019 Tallarol, their no-sulfites-added rendition of Pansa Blanca, for drinks and tapas at the local vermutería with Gonzalo Garnacho, the Export Manager. She generously suggested I stock up on a few faves to take with me later, including the brand-new 2019 Asarvos amber wine experiment that was just calling my name and 2019 Cau d’En Genis, a top-seller with which I was not familiar.

Day transitioned into evening as we enjoyed one another’s company well past dark, forging friendships and relationships that are the beating heart of the wine world. Part of the reason I am visiting these wineries is to show these incredibly hard workers my love and appreciation, and to share their dedication and commitment to the ever-more-difficult world of wine in the midst of climate change and the global pandemic. They are superstars, and I am honored to have been offered a glimpse into their passionate endeavors.

Moltes gràcies per a tots vosaltres – salut!

About the author: Caroline Abbott, CSW, CSS, WSET 3 was born to American parents in Madrid and grew up there.  As a teenager, she knew that the world of artisanal alcoholic beverages was her vocation. Before graduating with a BS in Entrepreneurship and Managements in 2011, she delved headfirst into the worlds of hospitality, brand ambassadorship, trade shows, and sales.  These eventually led to a Market Manager position for a New England beverage brokerage firm.The final catalyst for deciding wine was her future was selling a global portfolio while studying for the CSW exam in 2015. After an organic winemaking stint in Hungary and globetrotting for 8 months, she landed in Melbourne, Australia.  Working there with the top Spanish-wine importer inspired her to take the leap back to her native country.  During another 5 months of travel, she launched her bilingual translations business, Vinotations.  The long Covid quarantine was the impetus for her longtime dream to come true: traveling solo to visit 17 Spanish wineries in 29 days!  This blog post was born from that odyssey. Currently, she loves being back home in Madrid, after 11 years away.  In addition, she is Marketplace Success Manager in Spain for Vivino, the world’s most-downloaded wine app. 

  • This post was originally published on Caroline’s blog, Vinotations.
  • Photo credits:  Valérie Veilleux, Director of Communications at Alta Alella

 

Vino Naranja del Condado de Huelva PGI

Graphic via: https://docondadodehuelva.com/

Graphic via: https://docondadodehuelva.com/

Spain has one aromatized wine that holds a designated appellation of origin: Vino Naranja del Condado de Huelva. The name translates to Orange Wine of Condado de Huelva—however, this is a flavored wine macerated with actual oranges—not to be confused with the traditional skin-macerated white wines that are known as “orange wine” in many parts of the world. (No one ever said the wine world was void of confusing terminology—and they never will!)

Vino Naranja del Condado de Huelva is produced in the exact same defined geographical area as the slightly-better-known table wines of the Condado de Huelva DO. The region is located in on Andalucía’s Atlantic coast, about 45 miles/72 km northwest of Sanlúcar de Barrameda.

Vino Naranja del Condado del Huelva is produced using a base wine comprised exclusively of the products of the Condado de Huelva DO. The base may be a Condado de Huelva DO white wine, or a mistella (grape must that is muted [fortified] with grape spirits before or during fermentation). The preferred grape variety for these wines is the indigenous Zalema variety; however, the list of allowed grape varieties also includes Palomino Fino, Pedro Ximénez, Moscatel de Alejandría, Colombard, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay.

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To produce the aromatized wine, dried bitter orange peels are macerated with locally-produced grape spirit. This maceration must continue for at least six months; and must comprise at least 200 grams of dried orange peels per liter of spirit. One the maceration is complete; the flavored spirit is combined with the base wine.

Vino Naranja del Condado must next be oak-aged (in barrels of 650 liters or less) for a minimum of two years. This aging is typically done in a solera system, producing a concentrated, complex, and deeply oxidized wine with a dark amber color. The product is made in both dry and sweet styles. Fresh or concentrated grape must from the Condado de Huelva DO is allowed to be added as a sweetener.

Vino Naranja del Condado de Huelva is often served slightly chilled alongside savory appetizers and/or meals. It may also be enjoyed “on the rocks” with or without water or soda water. Many people feel that serving the wine with ice brings out the sweet character of the wine, making it an excellent accompaniment to sweet foods.

Graphic via: https://docondadodehuelva.com/

Graphic via: https://docondadodehuelva.com/

Vino Naranja del Condado de Huelva has been produced in the region for hundreds of years. Many references date its production back to 1770, and list Bodegas del Diezmo Nuevo as one of the original producers. Vino Naranja del Condado de Huelva was granted a protected geographical indication (PGI) of the European Union on March 14, 2017

Alas, It is not yet widely available outside of Europe, but for those lucky enough to be traveling to Spain in the near future—be sure and check it out (and bring us all a bottle)!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Ramona Valley Redux

Photo credit: Jan Crocker

Photo credit: Jan Crocker

Today we have a guest post from SWE member Jan Crocker, CSW. Jan earned her Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) certification in 2016 and is currently studying for the Certified Specialist of Spirts (CSS).  Wish her luck!

Now entering its early adolescence as the United States’ 162nd American Viticultural Area (AVA), the Ramona Valley AVA continues to evolve. Not unlike a resilient young teen, though, the region has stared down a few challenges over the last couple of years, and made further progress in its growth.

In my first piece three years ago about the Ramona Valley, I’d mentioned that my husband and I had visited the region four times. Fast forward to fall 2019: We’ve now spent eight outings there, discovering new wineries, returning to those that are “old friends,” and taking in the wild beauty of its distinctive natural landscape.

Before Ramona Redux, however, here’s Ramona Recap: a primer of the region for anyone unfamiliar with it.

The third AVA in the South Coast “super AVA,” the Ramona Valley is in north-central San Diego County, attaining its designation in January 2006. At 33.1 north, it’s 25 miles west of the Pacific Ocean and roughly 35 miles northeast of San Diego. Its altitude – an average of 1,400 feet above sea level – provides for solid diurnal swings; wine grapes benefit from its chilly nighttime lows and toasty mid-day highs. Neighbor community Julian, home to several apple orchards, crisp autumns, and chilly winters with occasional snow, is 22 miles east of Ramona, and is 4,200 feet above sea level.

Photo credit: Jan Crocker

Photo credit: Jan Crocker

Granite, decomposed and rocks alike, is a trademark of Ramona terroir. Its tiny particles provide a subtle sparkle in the soil, and its boulders make their presence known on the likes of nearby 2,800-foot Mount Woodson and on the region’s numerous hills. The proprietors of Vineyard Grant James made that granite part of their winery’s identity, opting to showcase it for their entrance.

The AVA sits among the region’s neighboring mountains and hills, with Mount Woodson, the Cuyamaca Mountains, and Mount Palomar providing a rain shadow from ocean fog and chill. It’s home to a 14 ½-mile stretch of terrain with 89,000 arable acres over 139 square miles – and, according to the proprietors of Barrel 1 Winery and Poppaea Vineyard, “at least 11 different microclimates.”

On average, annual Ramona rainfall reaches a modest 16 inches. Winter evenings often drop into the low 30s, while the mercury often touches the low-to-mid nineties on summer days. (We’ll return to a historically high temperature that’ll likely remain for years in winegrowers’ and winemakers’ memories.)

Photo credit: David Crocker

Photo credit: David Crocker

Southern California’s “soft chaparral,” with ample quantities of sage and rosemary, is the story of Ramona’s flora – on display at the entrance to Woof ‘n Rose Winery. Indeed, those herbs find their way into nearly all of the 41 wines we’d sampled during our most recent stay. It’s little wonder that the components of Ramona’s semi-arid, rather warm Mediterranean climate make it an ideal home for robust, sun-loving grapes from the Rhone Valley and the southern half of Italy – as well as other, equally hardy varietals that prosper from good amounts of sunshine, heat, and breeze.

As for the toasty: The Ramona Valley sizzled in the early summer of 2017, with a 102-degree high the second week of July. (Anza-Borrego State Park, nearly 45 miles east of Ramona, reached 124 degrees that day.) About three weeks earlier, Ramona endured days of devastating heat, with one afternoon at 98. These days highlighted one of the toughest climactic challenges that local winegrowers had faced in years, as one winery lost its entire ’17 harvest. Another, according to Ramona Ranch Vineyards‘ co-owner Teri Kerns, “lost half of its grapes that year.”

Despite its recent challenges, the Ramona Valley AVA has made solid, significant growth since 2016. The region is now home to at least 60 bonded wineries, 22 with tasting rooms. Three new wineries have debuted since 2015: Barrel 1 Winery, Crystal Hill Vineyard, and Correcaminos Vineyard.

Photo credit: David Crocker

Photo credit: David Crocker

Two more concerns, albeit considerably lesser ones, surfaced in the Ramona Valley in fall 2019. On Oct. 28, the Sawday Fire torched 95 acres of terrain between Ramona and Julian; to the relief of the area’s residents and wineries, the flames stayed far from structures and vines alike. No matter: The area’as winery owners and staffers were on stand-by mode that day, ready to vacate their premises if necessary.

A day later, Ramona Ranch Vineyards’ co-owner/winemaker Micole Moore expressed his concern in his Oct. 29 post on Facebook. “Earthquake!” he posted regarding the shallow 3.6-magnitude that rattled Ramona that morning, its epicenter 27 miles northeast at Lake Henshaw.

Obviously, wildfires and quakes are part of southern California life. Still, to have two of Mother Nature’s trademark events of the state occur in as many days left Ramona, for a lack of a better phrase, a bit shaky.

Barrel 1, in the middle of Ramona’s Goose Valley, benefits from some of the region’s most moderated temperatures. “We’re in a valley, in a valley,” mentioned one of the winery’s directors. “That’s why it’s about 10 degrees cooler here than anywhere else.” To that point, Barrel 1 features three white wines in its regular tasting lineup: an opulent, intensely perfumed, luscious Muscat that undergoes complete fermentation, a Viognier aged in stainless steel, and another Viognier that’s matured in neutral oak – a deep-gold beauty that offers rich layers of tropical fruits, peach, tangerine, and honey.

Photo credit: David Crocker

Photo credit: David Crocker

The ascent of sun-friendly white varietals in the region, Ramona Ranch Vineyards’ Kerns pointed out, is the happy by-product of the recent success of the area’s wineries. She mentioned that the main obstacle for making white wines was the price tag of cold-fermentation machines, a formidable $100,000. With enough money saved over the years, winery owners were at last able to produce white grapes that took easily to the region’s terroir. Her “Burlesque” blend is ample proof of Ramona’s promise with whites, a vibrant, fragrant blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Muscat, and Symphony, a crossing of vinifera varieties Muscat of Alexandria and Grenache gris. The winery’s single-varietal Sauvignon Blanc struts its elegant acidity with help from the sturdy granite; it’s a beauty that’d likely impress fans of Bordeaux blanc – and it’s a personal favorite of mine.

In the Grasslands region, proprietor/winemaker Mike Kopp of Kohill Winery follows suit with his estate Sauvignon Blanc. Lemongrass, lime, white pepper, and a hint of sea salt offer a bright counterpoint to the subtly rich Semillon, 25 percent of his nuanced white Bordeaux.

Other Ramona Valley AVA wineries have found surprising success with varietals that’d initially seem to be ill suited for the hot summers and sturdy winds characteristic of the area. Veteran winemaker/proprietor Eric Metz of Lenora Winery, home of focused, bright reds and whites, crafts a fresh, flinty, and citrusy Chardonnay that’d delight fans of Burgundian whites, especially Chablis. Likewise, Vineyard Grant James’ Susanne Sapier’s Chardonnay is similarly vibrant and zesty, with limited aging in neutral oak.

Jan Crocker, CSW - our guest blogger. Photo credit: David Crocker

Jan Crocker, CSW – our guest blogger. Photo credit: David Crocker

Likewise, Albarino has found an excellent, albeit unlikely, home in Ramona. Renderings here lead the way with heady scents and flavors of peach, navel orange, tangerine, pineapple, mango, and passionfruit, with subtle acidity and minerality that bring the ripe flavors front and center. Marilyn Kahle, co-owner and winemaker at Woof ‘n Rose Winery, makes sure her compelling, complex Grasslands Albarino is varietally on point, although the valley’s warm climate and abundant sunshine provide for a different style that’s decidedly different from those from Rias Biaxas’ cool maritime climes. (On the red side of the story, she makes a gorgeous, opulent Alicante Bouschet that provides deep, succulent red and black fruits, baking spices, and a finish that’s long and astounding.)

As with our first extended trip to Ramona in August 2016, Lady Nature was surprisingly kind to us, with afternoons barely reaching 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Many late Septembers in the area deliver afternoons in the mid-90s, so wine fans opt for cool shade under the covered patios which nearly all wineries provide. Woof ‘n Rose, Ramona Ranch Vineyards, and Vineyard Grant James offered us that comfort, as well as stunning views of the region’s terroir.

 

Congratulations on your Promotion: Carnuntum DAC!

Map via www.austrianwine.com

Map via www.austrianwine.com

The Carnuntum wine growing region— located in Austria’s  Niederösterreich (state of Lower Austria)—has been promoted to Districtus Austriae Controllatus (DAC) status! With this new announcement, effective today (October 1, 2019), Austria has a total of 14 DAC wine-producing regions—described by the Austrian Wine Marketing Board  as areas with “specific protections in place for regionally typical wines.”

Wine produced under the Carnuntum DAC will fall under three distinct quality levels, to include the following:

  • Gebietswein (regional wine)
  • Ortswein (wine from a specific village)
  • Riedenwein (single-vineyard wine)

The Carnuntum DAC will produce both red and white wines in accordance with the following standards:

  • The Heidentor (Heathens' Gate) archway, built during the Roman Empire, is a symbol of the locality of Petronell-Carnuntum as well as the Rubin Carnuntum wine producers.

    The Heidentor (Heathens’ Gate) archway, built during the Roman Empire, is a symbol of the locality of Petronell-Carnuntum as well as the Rubin Carnuntum wine producers.

    All wines must be dry

  • Red wines must have a minimum of 12% abv
  • White single-variety wines (monovarietals) may be 100% Chardonnay, Weissburgunder, or Grüner Veltliner
  • Red monovarietals may be 100% Zweigelt or Blaufränkisch.
  • Blended wines must contain a minimum of 67% (two-thirds) preferred grape varieties (Chardonnay, Weissburgunder [Pinot Blanc], Grüner Veltliner, Zweigelt, or Blaufränkisch). The remainder may contain any other grapes approved for cultivation in the region.

Red wines are particular specialty of the Carnuntum region, as witnessed by the 25 members of red-wine-specialty group known as Die Rubin Carnuntum Weingüter. The Zweigelt–based red wines of the Rubin Carnuntum wine growers’ society will continue to be produced and promoted under the new rules of the Carnuntum DAC .

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org