Guest Blogger: Diving into the DO Valencia

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Today we have a guest post from Elizabeth Yabrudy, CSS, CSW, CWE. Elizabeth takes us on a deep dive into the wines of the Valencia DO!

When we think about Spanish wines, usually Rioja, Ribera del Duero and/or Cava are the denominations that come into our minds, but never Valencia, right?

Valencia, the city, is Spain’s third largest, after Madrid and Barcelona. The autonomous community—under the same name—has three protected denominations of origin: DO Valencia, DO Utiel-Requena and DO Alicante. The DO Valencia was created in 1932, although its wine production date backs to the Phoenicians.

According to the Spanish Wine Market Observatory (OeMV, by its initials in Spanish), Valencia as an autonomous community ranks fourth in Spanish wine production by volume, after Castilla-La Mancha, Extremadura and Cataluna, with 5.8% (2.4 Mhl) of the total.

Saint Mary's Square, Valencia

Saint Mary’s Square, Valencia

The DO Valencia: The DO Valencia is located in Spain’s east coast (on the Mediterranean Sea), with the DO Carinena to its north; the DO Alicante to the south; and the DO Utiel-Requena (as well as part of the DO Manchuela, DO Almanza, and DO Yecla) to the west. It covers 18,060 hectares (44,600 acres), and includes four sub-zones:

  • Alto Turia
  • Valentino
  • Moscatel de Valencia
  • Clariano

The region covered by the DO Valencia also includes some land that lies within the province of Albacete, as well as in some areas (less than 30% of either of each DO) in the communities of Utiel-Requena and Alicante.

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The Alto Turia subzone, located in the northwest of the Province, produces dry white wine only. It is a mountainous zone, with extreme temperatures and a wide diurnal swing, where mostly white grapes are cultivated in an altitude between 700 and 1100 meters (2,300 and 3,610 feet) above sea level. Merseguera and Macabeo are the main varieties, but other whites are also allowed.

Valentino is situated almost in the center of the autonomous community of Valencia. The area under vine is lower in elevation than Alto Turia, just 200 to 650 meters (660 to 2,130 feet)above sea level. It is a sub-one where both, white and red grapes, can be found. Merseguera, Macabeo and Planta Fina are the most common of the whites, but Semillon and Chardonnay can also be found. Garnacha Tintorera, Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon are the most planted reds. The wines of Valentino are produced in many styles, as the soil and climate are very diverse, but in any case, alcohol strength tend to be higher than in other zones.

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Moscatel de Valencia is located south of Alto Turia and Valentino, and is more highly influenced by the Mediterranean breezes. Of course, the main grape here is Moscatel, mainly used to produce Vin de Liqueur (“Vino de Licor” or “Mistelas”). Vineyards are no more than 250 meters (820 feet) above the sea level.

Clariano, in the south of the DO Valencia, is an area with two different climates due to the presence of both valleys and mountains. White grapes are primarily cultivated in the area closest to the sea, while the interior—with warmer temperatures and higher elevations—is planted mainly to red grapes including Garnacha Tintorera, Monastrell, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Tempranillo.

Grapes and Wine Styles: The focus of the DO Valencia is on indigenous grapes. Most producers strive to showcase the authenticity of the region, even when they also cultivate international red and white varieties. The wines—both white and red—tend towards freshness, with good acidity and a mineral (even salty) character. The fruitiness is the main characteristic in the nose and the palate. However, this region is well known for its famed dessert wines.

The authorized grape varieties are:

  • Whites: Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Macabeo, Malvasía, Merseguera, Moscatel de Alejandría, Moscatel Grano Menudo, Planta Fina de Pedralba, Planta Nova, Pedro Ximénez, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Tortosí, Verdejo, Verdil and Viognier
  • Reds: Bobal, Bonicaire, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Forcallat Tinta, Garnacha, Graciano, Malbec, Mandó, Marselán, Mencía, Merlot, Monastrell, Mazuelo, Petit Verdot, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Tempranillo and Tintorera.
Xàtiva Castle, Valencia

Xàtiva Castle, Valencia

Click here for a pdf detailing the styles of wine produced in the region: The wines of the Valencia DO

Valencia has its own port on the Mediterranean Sea—the fifth busiest seaport in Europe, and the largest in Spain. Because of its location, this community has been strongly focused on markets outside Spain rather than at home, maintaining the impetus on high quality products.

More than 500 wineries are located in Valencia, and the region now has its own wine route—the Ruta del Vino DO Valencia—helping to increase enotourism in the area. If you can find a wine from Valencia, don’t hesitate to buy it. Valencia is also home to two high-quality Vinos de Pago: Vino de Pago El Terrerazo and Vino de Pago Los Balagueses. You are guaranteed a great Spanish wine experience!

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About the author: Elizabeth Yabrudy, CSS, CSW, CWE is a sommelier and journalist residing in Venezuela. To date, she the only Venezuelan—and the only South American—to have achieved the Certified Wine Educator designation from the Society of Wine Educators. In addition, Elizabeth is the winner of the 2018 Banfi Award, having received the highest combined total score of any candidate sitting the CWE in 2018. She stays busy teaching and writing about wine and spirits, as well as leading tastings and service training. In addition to her wine and spirits credentials, Elizabeth has a Master’s Degree in Electronic Publishing from City University in London. You can find her online at ElizabethYabrudy.wordpress.com.

References/for more information:

Castilla-La Mancha (and Spanish Wine) has a Very Good Day: Three New Vinos de Pago approved!

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The estate wines of Spain hare having a good week! Last Wednesday (June 12, 2019) the EU approved three new Vinos de Pago as protected designation of origin/PDO wines of Spain.

All three of these newly-registered Pagos are located in the comunidad autónoma of Castilla-La Mancha—making a total of 11 Pagos (out of Spain’s new current total of 18) located within the region. According to the fresh-off-the-presses documentation, the details concerning these PDOs include the following:

Vino de Pago Vallegarcía

  • Location: Specified parcels in the municipality of Retuerta del Bullaque (Ciudad Real); located within the VdlT Castilla; the area is close to and influenced by the Bullaque River; soils of the region are known for high acidity/low pH
  • Allowed grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Viognier
  • Types/styles of wine:
    • Viognier: Both stainless steel and French oak barrels are used for fermentation; wine is lees aged for a minimum of 6 months
    • Red˜single-variety and blends: Both stainless steel and French oak barrels are used for fermentation; maceration lasts for 7 to 28 days; oak and barrel aging are utilized but minimum aging time is not specified
  • Other notes: The use of pre-fermentation maceration (cold soak) is common; must and wines are gravity-fed through much of the production process; both red and white wines are known for their herbal aromas (described in the white wines as white flowers, lavender, and rosemary and in the red wines as Mediterranean scrub and lavender)
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Vino de Pago La Jaraba

  • Location: Specified parcels in the municipality of El Provencio (Cuenca); within the confines of the existing La Mancha DO; the area has almost no hills and sits at a consistent elevation of 700 meters (2,300 ft) above sea-level; vineyards are surrounded by oak and pine forests
  • Allowed grape varieties: Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Graciano
  • Types/styles of wine:
    • Red blend of Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Graciano; aged in oak barrels for at least 9 months followed by aging in the bottle for at least 9 months
    • Red blend of Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot; aged in oak barrels for at least 6 months followed by aging in the bottle for at least 6 months
    • Varietal Merlot (red): 100% Merlot, aged in oak barrels for at least 6 months followed by aging in the bottle for at least 6 months
  • Other Notes: Wine may be fermented in stainless or French oak; fermentation process is initiated via the “grapes’ own microbial flora”
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Vino de Pago Los Cerrillos

  • Location: Specified parcels in the municipality of Argamasilla de Alba (Ciudad Real); the area is locally referred to as the “Vega Alta” section of the Guadiana River
  • Allowed grape varieties: Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah
  • Types/styles of wine:
    • Varietal Tempranillo (red); 100% Tempranillo, aged in oak for at least 30 days
    • Varietal Syrah (red); 100% Syrah, aged in oak for at least 6 months
    • Red blend of Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon; aged in oak for at least 6 months
    • “Private Collection” red blend of Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon; aged in oak for at least 13 months
    • “Cabernet Sauvignon de Familia” (Family Reserve Cabernet); 100 % Cabernet Sauvignon; aged in oak for at least 24 months followed by at least 18 months of bottle aging
  • Other notes: Grapes are harvested between 5 o’clock and 11 o’clock in the morning; wine is fermented in stainless steel; délestage (rack-and-return) is used throughout the fermentation process; wine is not pressed but is clarified via racking

Welcome to the world, Vino de Pago Vallegarcía, Vino de Pago La Jaraba, and Vino de Pago Los Cerrillos!

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

References/for more information:

Nizza DOCG: Official at Last!

Photo via: https://ec.europa.eu/info/food-farming-fisheries

Photo via: https://ec.europa.eu/info/food-farming-fisheries

Nearly five years after its approval by Italy’s Ministry of Agriculture and its original application to the EU, the Nizza DOCG is signed, sealed, and delivered…and has received its final approval and registration as an EU-protected designation of origin (PDO) product for its Barbera-based red wines.

Click here to view the announcement in the June 12, 2019 edition of the Official Journal of the European Union.

We’ve been enjoying the deep red wines of the Nizza DOCG (produced in Piedmont, Italy) for several years now, but as a reminder, here are the rules and regulations for Nizza DOCG wines:

  • The place: All grapes must be grown within a delineated geographic zone, which was an already-established subzone of the Barbera d’Asti DOCG. The allowed communes of production include Agliano Terme, Belveglio, Calamandrana, Castel Boglione, Castelnuovo Belbo, Castelnuovo Calcea, Castel Rocchero, Cortiglione, Incisa Scapaccino, Mombaruzzo, Mombercelli, Nizza Monferrato, Vaglio Serra, Vinchio, Bruno, Rocchetta Palafea, Moasca, and San Marzano Oliveto.
  • The vines: Every vineyard destined for the Nizza DOCG must be registered with the Consortium and tout particular soils and exposures.  Vines must be entirely estate, planted on the slopes of hills facing south-east to south-west.
  • The harvest: Harvest must be done entirely by hand.
  • The grapes: 100% Barbera
  • Alcohol: Minimum 13% abv
  • Aging: Total minimum aging is 18 months from January 1 of the year following harvest. Total aging time must include at least 6 months in oak.
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In addition, all wine bearing the “Nizza DOCG” designation must meet the standards set forth by the consortium for organoleptic properties and laboratory analysis. If a wine does not meet with the consortium’s approval, it may be de-classified and bear the title of Barbera d’Asti DOCG, Monferrato Rosso DOC, Piemonte Barbera DOC, or Piemonte Rosso DOC (assuming, of course, that the wine meets the standards of the individual appellation). Interestingly enough, one facet of the consortium’s laboratory analysis is a  minimum requirement of 26 g/L “dry extract.”

Welcome to the world, Nizza DOCG—or perhaps we should say “Congratulations on your promotion, Nizza DOCG!” Either way, it’s great to see Nizza get the respect it deserves!

P.S. The EU must have had a busy week, as the June 12, 2019 edition of the Official Journal of the European Union noted the official registration of three other wine appellations—we’ll have more information on this tomorrow!

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

References/for more information:

Zirbenz, Vermouth, Gruyère: Gifts of the European Alps

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The European Alps—stretching from France, Italy, and Switzerland through Germany and Austria and Slovenia—contain within them a diverse series of ecosystems. These include the Alpine lowlands—rich with deciduous trees and ideal for farming and vineyards. Higher up, the area is known for conifer forests of fir, spruce, and pine. Above the tree line, the valleys explode with the plants of the Alpine meadows: herbs, grasses, wildflowers, and shrubs.

The bounty of the Alps is reflected in the wine, food, and spirits of the region. These include:

  • Absinthe: The first-ever Absinthe Distillery was opened in 1797 by Henri-Louis Pernod in the Swiss town of Couvet [now part of Val-de-Travers])
  • Vermouth: The town of Chambéry, located in the Alps of Eastern France, has long been a center of vermouth production and is now home to several brands of vermouth including Dolin, Routin, and C. Cosmoz.
  • The wines of the Alps, which include those produced in the French regions of Jura and Savoie and Italy’s Val d’Aosta.
  • The wines of Switzerland, which include some fascinatingly obscure wines produced from the native grapes of region—such as Chasselas, Amigne of Vétroz, and Cornalin du Valais.
  • Botanical liqueurs: A range of fascinating and historic botanical liqueurs that includes Chartreuse, Génépy des Alpes, and Bonal.
  • Cheese: The legendary dairy farms of the Alps produce a range of cheeses that includes Emmental, Gruyère, Appenzeller, Comté, Abondance, and Fontina Val D’Aosta (as well as fondue and raclette).
Photo by Moroder (derivative work) via Wikimedia Commons

Photo by Moroder (derivative work) via Wikimedia Commons

And then there’s Zirbenz, known as the Stone Pine Liqueur of the Alps. Zirbenz is a sweet, slightly bitter, fruity, and resinous liqueur flavored with the immature fruit (cones) of the Zirbelkiefer tree (also known as the Arolla Stone Pine Tree). The Arolla Stone Pine grows in the Alps and Carpathian Mountains of central Europe, and can thrive at elevations up to 2,300 meters (7,500 ft) above sea level.

Zirbenz is produced at the Josef Hofer Distillery in Steiermark (Styria), Austria. After the unopened (immature) cones of the trees are harvested, they are sliced open and macerated in a base spirit. This provides the liqueur with its natural earthy-red color and its slightly bitter, tannic finish. It’s something you have to experience to believe.

References/for further learning:

Welcome to the World, Naramata Bench and Skaha Bench!

Deep Roots Winery - photo via the Naramata Bench Wineries Association

Deep Roots Winery – photo via the Naramata Bench Wineries Association

On May 13, 2019, the British Columbia Vintners Quality Alliance announced the approval and registration of two new geographical indications—Naramata Bench and Skaha Bench. Both of these areas are contained within and considered to be sub-appellations of the larger Okanagan Valley GI—itself located in the Canadian province of British Columbia just north of the US border.

The new appellations were approved by the British Columbia Wine Authority in January 2019; at that time the proposals (recommendations) were sent to the Minister of Agriculture as required under British Columbia’s “Wines of Marked Quality” regulations. On May 13 the registrations were complete.

Here are some details concerning these new GIs:

Naramata Bench: The Naramata Bench GI occupies the bench lands located along the south and east side of Lake Okanagan, extending north from Penticton Creek to the edge of Okanagan Mountain Park.  The area consists of rolling hills and a diversity of soils that make for a range of microclimates; however, the area tends to be slightly warmer—and enjoys a longer growing period and more frost free days—than the surrounding areas.

There are more than 30 wineries located within the Naramata Bench GI, including Bella Wines (specializing in sparkling wines), D’Angelo Estate Winery, Deep Roots Winery, and Serendipity Winery. See the website of the Naramata Bench Winery Association for a complete list. The entirety of the Naramata Bench GI covers just under 3,650 hectares; of these, 250 hectares (620 acres) are currently planted to vine.  The leading grapes of the region include Merlot, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir.

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Skaha Bench: The Skaha Bench GI is located entirely atop of—and named for—a geological terrace that runs alongside the eastern edge of Lake Skaha. The area, located to the east and south of the city of Penticton, consists mainly of west-facing slopes that allow for cool air to drain downward toward the lake shore. This makes the land atop the 10-kilometer-long (6.2-mile-long) Skaha Bench slightly warmer than most of the surrounding area.

Wineries located within the Skaha Bench GI include Black Dog Cellars, Blasted Church Vineyards, Crescent Hill  Winery, Painted Rock Estate Winery, and Pentâge Winery. The entirety of the Skaha Bench GI covers just under 365 hectares; of these, 75 hectares (185 acres) are currently planted to vine.

With the approval of the Naramata Bench and Skaha Bench GIs, the Okanagan Valley now contains four total sub-appellations, including the previously-approved Okanagan Falls (established in 2018) and Golden Mile (established in 2014) areas.

References/for further information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles – your blog administrator

Dispatch from the Muscadet AOC

The Erdre River at Nantes

The Erdre River at Nantes

There are some people that consider Muscadet to be a rather uninteresting wine. After all (they may argue), it’s old-fashioned, it is a mono-cépage (wine produced from a single grape variety), and the grape itself—Melon de Bourgogne—is rather neutral in aromas and flavors. 

Others would argue that Muscadet—the leading wine of the Loire Valley’s Pays Nantais and produced in four separate appellations including Muscadet AOC, Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine AOC, Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu AOC, and Muscadet Coteaux de la Loire AOC—is complex, delicious, and fascinating. After all, the Pays Nantais is itself somewhat complicated, with a great diversity in its topography, soils, and micro-climates. Combine that with the fact that the wine is often put through sur lie aging, and you have a region that can produce a wine that may show up in a variety of styles from light, citrus, and mineral-scented to rich, yeasty, and full of tropical fruit flavors.

While we’re on the subject of Muscadet, here are a few more fascinating facts about the grape, the wine, and the region:

The Year was 1937: The Muscadet AOC was originally approved on September 23, 1937—making it one of the oldest AOCs for wine in France. The very first wine-specific AOCs were approved on May 15, 1936.

Photo of Lake Grand-Lieu via www.france-voyage.com

Photo of Lake Grand-Lieu via www.france-voyage.com

La Lac de Grand-Lieu: Lake Grand Lieu (La Lac de Grand-Lieu) is located about 8 miles (14 km) south of the city of Nantes. The lake stretches across 6,000 hectares in winter, when it is considered the largest natural lake in France. Lake Grand Lieu was ceded to the country of France in the early 1980s under the condition that it be declared a national nature reserve. The lake contains four distinct habitats—including open water, a water lily bed, a reed bed and several meadows that flood for six to eight months a year. More than 500 species of plants make their home on the lake, and over 270 species of birds fly through the region each year along their migratory route towards the Atlantic Coast. The area is also home to ducks, geese, otters, and frogs. As the lake is 100% a nature preserve, access is limited and most forms of boating and fishing are not allowed. However, there are 7 members of the traditional fishing community that have been assigned a special authorization to fish during certain times of the year.

Le Muscadet Nouveau est arrivé: Muscadet AOC is allowed to be bottled using the term “Nouveau” or “Primeur.” Muscadet Nouveau AOC may be released on the third Thursday of November (which is, it seems, a very good day to host a wine party).

 Map of the Muscader AOC via the INAO

Map of the Muscadet AOC via the INAO

The Muscadet AOC: The Muscadet AOC is large area, starting just east of the place where the Loire River meets the Atlantic Coast and extending inland for almost 55 miles (90 km) to the western edge of the Anjou District. The majority of the area is located within the Loire-Atlantique Département, but small portions extend into the Maine-et-Loire and Vendée Département as well. Many of the vineyards are located to the south and east of the city of Nantes; others are concentrated along the Loire River (and its famous tributaries, including the Sèvre, the Erdre, and the Maine) as well as the area surrounding Grand Lieu Lake.

Clisson, Gorges, and Le Pallet: The Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine AOC, tucked between the Sèvre and the Maine Rivers close to where they flow northwest in the Loire River, contains three (smallish) sub-regions: Clisson, Gorges, and Le Pallet. These three sub-regions are delineated based on soil types—Clisson is granite-based, Gorges rests on clay and gabbro, and Le Pallet is known for gneiss and quartz. Wines labeled with these sub-regions—often referred to as crus—must be produced from grapes grown on these soils. The three sub-regions also have varying requirements for sur lie aging and total aging before release, and wine are often aged on the lees for two years or more. Click here for a map of the sub-regions of the Muscadet Sevre et Maine AOC, via the INAO.

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Le Grand Hiver:  On January 5, 1709, much of Northern Europe woke up to a deep freeze. The freezing temperatures—which spread from England (where they called it “The Great Frost”) across France (where they called it Le Grand Hiver) and Northern Italy, through Scandinavia and parts of Russia—lasted almost three months. This was considered to be the coldest winter in Europe in over 500 years. During this time, Elizabeth Charlotte, the Duchess of Orléans wrote a letter from her Loire Valley home exclaiming, “Never in my life have I seen a winter such as this one; the wine freezes in bottles.” Not long after The Great Frost, red grapes were outlawed in Nantes and the area became (for a time) a white wine-only region. It was during this time that the cold-hardy Melon de Bourgogne grape came to dominate the vineyards of the Pays Nantais.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles, your blog administrator…

Dispatch from Vinos de Madrid DO (and the announcement of a new sub-region)!

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Madrid is a beautiful city, known for world-class dining amazing scenery, and beautiful architecture. If you visit, you’ll want to take in the Prado Museum as well as the Museo Reina Sofia, Retiro Park, the Gran Via, and the Palacio Real (just to get you started).

Madrid is also the name given to one of the seventeen autónomias (autonomous communities) of Spain. The autónomia of Madrid is located somewhat in the middle of the country, bordering Castilla–La Mancha and Castilla y León. The city of Madrid is the capital city of the area and—with a population of over 3 million people—by far the largest.

Logo via: http://www.vinosdemadrid.es/es/

Logo via: http://www.vinosdemadrid.es/es/

The autónomia of Madrid is also a wine-producing area, and has its own geographical indication: Vinos de Madrid Denominación de Origen (DO). The Vinos de Madrid produces a wide range of wines, including tinto (red), blanco (white), and rosado (rosé). The main authorized grape varieties for these wines are as follows:

  • Red and rosé: Tinto Fino (Tempranillo), Garnacha Tinta (Grenache Noir), Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, or Syrah
  • White: Malvar, Albillo (Albillo Real), Airén, Viura (Macabeo), Torrontés, Parellada, Moscatel de Grano Menudo (Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains)

Traditional Method sparkling wines—known as Vino Espumoso—are produced as well. Vino Espumoso de Madrid is required to be aged on the lees for a minimum of 9 months; however, the only producer in the region—Bodegas Jesús Díaz e Hijos—ages their bubbly sur lie for at least three years. The grapes allowed in the sparkling wines of Vinos de Madrid DO include the following Albillo (Albillo Real), Torrontés, Viura (Macabeo), Parellada, Malvar, Garnacha Tinta (Grenache Noir) and Tinto Fino (Tempranillo).

Map via www.vinosdemadrid.es

Map via www.vinosdemadrid.es

The DO is also approved for the production of a unique wine known as Vino Sobremadre. Vino Sobremadre is produced in both red and white styles, and involves a post-fermentation maceration of 90 to 180 days on the grape skins and lees (the madre).

The Vinos de Madrid DO was first established in 1990. Soon thereafter, three sub-regions— Arganda, Navalcarnero, and San Martín de Valdeiglesias—were approved. On March 20, 2019, the Consejo Regulador announced a new sub-region to be known as El Molar.

The new sub-region of ​​El Molar is the only one located in the north of the Vinos de Madrid region, and currently has approximately 600 hectares (1,500 acres) planted to vine (mainly Granacha Tinta and Malvar). The El Molar region stretches between the River Guadalix and the River Jarama, stretching into the Sierra Norte de Madrid Mountains (part of the Sierra de Guadarrama Range) and the Jarama Valley. Wineries in this area are located just to the north of the city of Madrid—and close enough for a day trip. If you leave by 5 pm, you can be back in the city for dinner at the Mercado de San Miguel.

 References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles, your blog administrator

Lucky Lucido

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According to the website of the Consorzio di tutela vini Sicilia DOC, wines produced from the Cataratto Bianco Comune and Cataratto Bianco Lucido varieties may now be labeled using the term “Lucido.”

Lucido is a historical name for the Catarrato grape, and the Consorzio has taken this step due to the belief that the grape variety “Cataratto” is not widely known, and—particularly in the international markets—considered hard to pronounce. It is believed that these factors are making the wine less appealing to some consumers.

Catarrato is an ancient grape variety and native to the island of Sicily. According to Jancis Robinson, et al, in the book Wine Grapes, it was described as a Sicilian wine grape in 1696 by the Italian naturalist Francesco Cupani in the work “Hortus Catholicus.” Catarrato/Lucido is believed to be an offspring of the Garganega grape variety (which is itself best-known famous as the main grape variety of the Soave DOC). Garganega is also mentioned as the likely parent of Albana, Malvasia Bianca, and Trebbiano Toscano (among others)—giving the grape many possible siblings. Catarrato itself—along with Muscat of Alexandria—is believed to be the parent of Grillo, another important Sicilian variety.

Photo via: siciliadoc.wine/en/

Photo via: siciliadoc.wine/en/

Two “types” of Catarrato are often cited in wine documents (and wine labels): Cataratto Bianco Comune and Cataratto Bianco Lucido. Previously, it was assumed that these terms represented two distinct grape varieties, but recent evidence has shown that they are merely two clones of the same variety. According to Wine Grapes, it is proper to use the name “Catarrato Bianco” to refer to either clone. In this new ruling by the Consorzio of the Silcilia DOC, the name Lucido may apply to either clone.

Catarrato is the most widely grown grape on the island of Sicily, and despite its relative lack of acclaim, is the second-most-widely grown white grape in all of Italy. One reason for its relative obscurity is no doubt that a good deal of Catarrato grapes are used in wine destined for distillation, as grape concentrate, or in the production of sweet versions of Marsala. However, when grown in optimal conditions and used to produce a varietal or blended wine, it can be quite interesting. Well-done Catarrato-based wines tend to show aromas and flavors of citrus (lemon, tangerine, grapefruit), red apples, fresh herbs, almonds,  and a distinct minerality. Such wines tend to be somewhat full-bodied and rich in floral aromas, often leading to a comparison with varietal wines produced from Viognier.

Photo via: www.donnafugata.it

Photo via: www.donnafugata.it

One of the most widely-distributed Catarrato/Lucido-based wines I have found is Donnafugata Anthìlia Sicilia DOC. According to the winery website, “The 2018 vintage is characterized by a fresh and fragrant bouquet with fruity and floral notes. A very versatile wine, ideal with fish and vegetarian first and second courses.”

While Catarrato/Lucido is often used to produce a single-variety wine, it is also an excellent blending partner with other international and native Sicilian grapes. Typical blending partners for Catarrato/Lucido include Chardonnay, Grillo, Inzolia, Viogner, and Fiano.

In addition to the Sicilia DOC, the Catarrato grape  is approved for use in the wines of many of the DOCs of Sicily, including the Alcama DOC, Etna DOC, Salaparuta DOC, and the Marsala DOC (among others). At this point, it is unclear whether or not the “Lucido” synonym will be used (or allowed to be used) outside of the Sicilia DOC.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles, your blog administrator…

The New DACs: Südsteiermark, Vulkanland Steiermark, and Weststeiermark

Riegersburg Castle Steiermark

Riegersburg Castle Steiermark

Late last year, the wine world began to hear rumblings of three new Districtus Austriae Controllatus- (DAC-) designated wine-growing regions to be confirmed in the Austrian state of Styria (Steiermark). As of March 3, 2019, we can confirm that these three new DACs— Südsteiermark DAC, Vulkanland Steiermark DAC, and Weststeirmark DAC—have published their Verordnungen (regulations) and are officially in force..

The wines of all three new DAC regions may be produced under the following classifications:

  • Gebietswein: Regional wine
  • Ortswein:  “Village wine” from certain designated villages
  • Riedenwein: Single-vineyard wines from classified estates

Read on for a summary of the new regulations concerning these wine regions.

Vineyards surrounding Riegersburg Castle

Vineyards surrounding Riegersburg Castle

Südsteiermark DAC: Sauvignon Blanc, the leading grape of the Südsteiermark, is planted in nearly 20% of the region’s vineyards. However, this is a large growing area—currently there are 6,234 acres/2,563 hectares planted to vine; and Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay are well-represented as well. The area makes for a stunning landscape, with rolling hills punctuated by staggering slopes—some with an incline as steep as 45°. The soils in the flatter regions are primarily marine sediment, while the hills and slopes contain marl and conglomerate soils. The climate during the growing season tends to warm and humid days combined with cool nights, allowing for a long vegetative cycle and complex, concentrated grapes. 

Other details of the Südsteiermark DAC include the following:

  • Grapes allowed: Welschriesling, Pinot Blanc, Morillon (Chardonnay), Pinot Gris, Riesling, Muscat, Sauvignon Blanc, and Traminer (Savignin); wine may be single-variety or blends. Grapes must be hand-harvested.
  • Required aging: Wines made from Welschriesling grapes may be sold at any time; for all other varieties, the wine may not be sold before March 1 of the year following harvest. Wines designated by a village or single vineyard (Riedenwein) designation may have longer required minimum aging times.
  • Wine Styles: Wines are required to be vinified dry and have a stated maximum of 0.4% RS. Wines produced from Riesling or Traminer (Savignin) must display the word “Trocken” (dry) on the label.
  • Ortswein: Designated “villages” approved for the production of Ortswein include Kitzeck-Sausal, Eichberg, Leutschach, Gamlitz, and Ehrenhausen.
Uhrtum Clock Tower

Uhrtum Clock Tower

Vulkanland Steiermark DAC: As its name implies, Vulkanland Steiermark is rich in volcanic soils often said to help imbue the wines of the region with a distinct character that has been described as “mineral-spice.” The area has 3,765 acres/1,524 ha planted to vines, many of them planted on the slopes of the area’s long-dormant volcanoes, some reaching elevations as high as 1,968 feet/600 meters. The area has a particular affinity for rich, medium-to-full-bodied Sauvignon Blanc, assisted by the warm, dry days and cool, crisp nights typical of the growing season. Klöcher Traminer, known for a rich floral aroma redolent of roses, is sometimes made as a semi-sweet (halbtrocken) wine, and is one of the few wines of the region that may be produced in fully sweet style (labeled as a Prädikatswein).

Other details of the Vulkanland Steiermark DAC include the following:

  • Grapes allowed: Welschriesling, Pinot Blanc, Morillon (Chardonnay), Pinot Gris, Riesling, Muscat, Sauvignon Blanc, Traminer (Savignin); wine may be single-variety or blends. Grapes must be hand-harvested.
  • Required aging: Wines made from Welschriesling grapes may be sold at any time; for all other varieties, the wine may not be sold before March 1 of the year following harvest. Wines designated by a village or a single vineyard (Riedenwein) designation may have longer required minimum aging times.
  • Wine Styles: With a few exceptions (as detailed below), wines are required to be vinified dry and have a stated maximum of 0.4% RS. Wines produced from Riesling or Traminer (Savignin Blanc) must display the word “Trocken” (dry) on the label.
  • Ortswein: Designated “villages” approved for the production of Ortswein include Klöch, Straden, St. Peter, Tieschen, St. Anna, Kapfenstein, Riegersburg and Oststeiermark.
  • Unique Sweets: Klöcher Traminer, which may be produced in a semi-dry style, or—if labeled as a Prädikatswein—as a sweet wine, may not be sold until April 1 of the year following the harvest.
The Municipality of Puch bei Weiz

The Municipality of Puch bei Weiz

Weststeirmark (West Styria) DAC: There are currently about 1,350 acres/546 ha planted to vine and 127 wineries located in Weststeiermark. The terroir of Weststeiermark is described as rolling hills punctuated by steep inclines, many of which house vines at elevations of up to 1,970 feet/600 m. The climate during the growing period is warm and quite humid. The soil of Westeiermark is based on a combination of gneiss and mica-rich schist.

As of the publication of the new Westeiermark DAC, the “Schilcherland DAC” for Schilcher Rosé (approved in October of 2017) is no longer in force—however, the wine continues to be produced as a specialty of the area, labeled as “Schilcher Klassik Westeiermark DAC.” A range of styles of Schilcher Rosé are permitted, include still, frizzante, and fully sparkling.

Other details of the Weststeiermark DAC include the following:

  • Grapes allowed: Blauer Wildbacher (Schilcher), Welschriesling, Pinot Blanc, Morillon (Chardonnay), Pinot Gris, Riesling, Muscat, Sauvignon Blanc, and Traminer (Savignin); wine may be single-variety or blends. Grapes must be hand-harvested.
  • Required aging: Wines produced from Welschriesling and Blauer Wildbacher (Schilcher) grapes may be sold at any time; for all other varieties, the wine may not be sold before March 1 of the year following harvest. Wines designated by a village or single vineyard (Riedenwein) designation may have longer required minimum aging times.
  • Wine Styles: Wines are required to be vinified dry and have a stated maximum of 0.4% RS. Wines produced from Riesling or Traminer (Savignin Blanc) must display the word “Trocken” (dry) on the label.
  • Ortswein: Designated “villages” approved for the production of Ortswein include Ligist, Stainz, Deutschlandsberg, and Eibiswald.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles, your blog administrator…

Guest Post: The (R)evolution of the Basque Country’s Txakolina

Celebrating Txakolina with dance in the town of Bakio

Celebrating Txakolina with dance in the town of Bakio

Today we have a guest post from Kerri Lesh, CSW and and Ph.d candidate. Kerri tells us about her search for Txakolina and other adventures in wine and the Basque Country of Spain. Kerri will be presenting a webinar on Txakolina and Basque wine on Saturday, March 9th at 10:00 am central time. 

Now advertised as a “Culinary Nation,” the Basque Country of Spain (Hegoalde) has changed quite a bit over the last few decades. Known in the native language Euskara as Euskadi, this part of Basque Country has evolved from a nation associated with terrorism, to one of gastronomic fame. Touting more Michelin-star restaurants per capita than anywhere in the world, cities like San Sebastián/Donostia have become increasingly attractive to foreigners searching for sandy beaches as well as great food and wine. This city is located in the province of Gipuzkoa, which extends to what we know as the French border and the rest of the Basque Country (Iparralde). To the west of this city is Bilbao—located in the province of Biscay/Bizkaia—and joining the southern borders of these two provinces is Álava/Araba, with Vitoria-Gasteiz as its capital. These three provinces not only make up the Basque Autonomous Community, but each contains a Denominación de Origen (DO) for Txakolina: Getariako Txakolina, Bizkaiko Txakolina, and Arabako Txakolina.

My first walk among the vineyards around Getaria

My first walk among the vineyards around Getaria

Just as the Basque Country is transforming, so is Txakolina. This wine—known as either Txakoli or Txakolina—has changed considerably over the last few hundred years. Its debated etymological roots, stemming from “etxeko ain,” meaning “enough for the home,” link this wine to the Basque language and local production for the home. As I interviewed people while living in the Basque Country, I found this iconic wine had not always had such a positive reputation. Older generations had a much different perspective on it than the younger generations of Basques and the tourists who have only had access to Txakoli for the last decade or so.

Production methods have changed the taste of Txakoli both abroad and closer to home. Today, there are three different styles of the wine—white, rosé, and red. However, well before designations of origin protected Txakolina, an advertisement for “Chacoli de Ezcaba” (the Castilian spelling) indicates that a wine with the same name was once produced in the province of Navarra with Garnacha. This would have been much different from the Txakolina produced today in the three DOs.

A vineyard of Hondarribi Zuri near where I lived outside of Elorrio withi Udalaitz Mountain in the background

A vineyard of Hondarribi Zuri near where I lived outside of Elorrio withi Udalaitz Mountain in the background

Cultural tastes play a role in the Txakolina available to consumers. While a rosé version of the wine made by producers such as Ameztoi and Txomin Etxaniz can commonly be found in the United States, drinking the rosé version is not part of local Basque culture. Most producers depend largely on the white grape Hondaribbi Zuri to make white wine, exporting rosé, which typically incorporates the red grape Hondaribbi Beltza, to countries such as the United States. Over time, producers such as Doniene Gorrondona have even created a version of Txakolina using the Traditional Method as well as red.

In addition to helping with a 2017 harvest in the Basque Country, I also had the opportunity to work a harvest in Casablanca, Chile. One weekend after the harvest was complete, a few colleagues from the winery and I got in a car in search of the Chilean Chacoli. I had read that Chacoli could be found near the Chilean city of Doñihue.

Discovering Chacoli in Chile

Discovering Chacoli in Chile

It took some digging around to find this wine, which included asking locals traveling on horseback and knocking on doors. After hours of driving around, we found one bodega and a couple of people who claimed to make it, mostly for local consumption. It tasted nothing like the Txakolina made in the Basque Country, which made sense considering the use of different grape varietals and production methods. Most of the producers also referred to their chacoli as chicha, a beverage typically from Latin America that is fermented from fruits or grains. While living in the Basque Country in 2017, I received news that a group of Chilean producers were revitalizing the production of Chacoli as a local artisanal wine that would typically be sold at local festivals and celebrations. Unlike its Basque ancestor, this version does not have a geographical or designation of origin.

It will be interesting to see how this wine will continue to change across the Basque DOs. and in Chilean artisanal production. Today in the Basque Country, the scale of Txakolina has evolved from being just “enough for the home,” to now being sold across the globe. It is also no longer solely advertised as a young white wine to be drunk soon after it is bottled, and can be enjoyed in its many forms over time whether it is white, rosé, or red; slightly effervescent, still, or sparkling; young or aged. As tourism continues to increase in the Basque Country, in turn opening up these winegrowing regions to globalized tastes, what will Txakolina look like in another 20 years?

Kerri Lesh, CSW and Ph.d candidate, will present a webinar on Txakolina and the Basque Country on Saturday, March 6th at 10:00 am central time. Click here f or more information on the March 9th webinar.

For more posts and interviews from Kerri Lesh, please visit http://www.kerrilesh.com/

Photo credits: Kerri Lesh, Cameron Watson