Wine, Wit, and Wisdom

.

Today we have a conference preview from David Glancy, MS, CWE, FWS, CSS. In this post, David tells us about his upcoming session—entitled “New and Pending California AVAs and Trends”—covering the latest news (and there is a lot) of the wines of California. David’s session will be offered as part SWE’s 43rd Annual Conference, to be held August 14 – 16 in Washington DC.

California wine is easy, the grape’s on the label, right? Wrong! The only constant is change and California wine country is more diverse and complex than most realize. Many of you studying for CWE, WSET, MS, MW and WSG programs spend far more time dissecting the minutiae of European wine regions than those in your own backyard.

.

The basics of AOs versus AVAs is lost on many people and in fact I almost never hear anyone discussing AOs. I have heard very advanced wine industry people talking about counties that are AVAs. Well, there are none, they are separate things. A county, state or country can be an Appellation of Origin and an American Viticultural Area is a more specific type of AO with more strict labeling requirements. Some confusion has been created by the approval of the Mendocino AVA inside Mendocino County, Monterey AVA in Monterey County and San Benito AVA in San Benito County. But to be clear, these AVAs are all significantly smaller than the county lines (the AOs).

There have been a tremendous number of new AVAs approved in recent years. California has 139 AVAs and 26 of them were approved 2011-2018, a 23 percent increase. 5 regions have also mandated Conjunctive Labeling. Are all of these AVAs meaningful? What are the climates, soils, predominant grapes and most important wineries? Chances are most people have not seen a label with the AVA names Los Olivos District or Petaluma Gap on it.

.

Is this AVA expansion slowing down? I don’t think so. There are also 9 pending AVAs in California alone. Who knows how many are being discussed but not yet submitted to the Tax & Trade Bureau? West Sonoma Coast is expected to be finalized any day, while San Luis Obispo Coast is in the back of the line. It will be interesting to conjecture about where the next AVAs might or should be.

At least AVAs are much simpler to understand than AOCs, DOCGs, DOs, DACs, etc.. Well, there are now a few California regions with Old World style rules with trademarked label terms that include strict regulations. We will discuss and taste selections from Coro Mendocino, Lodi Native and the Ballard Canyon Estate Syrah bottle mold.

.

The launch of the CSWA Sustainable Wine logo is also new. We will see and taste an example of this, also. Well, we won’t actually taste the label. There are also perhaps a dozen new grape varieties in the ground over the last 20 years. This CA update will cover those and discuss where these and other new grapes are best suited. Climate change has to be part of the agenda and if there are any grapes that will likely decline. There have also been excise tax changes that might end up impacting labeling laws. Competition has also changed with commercial wineries in all 50 United States and a handful of them expanding at a faster rate than California. China has had a meteoric rise in its acreage and production and Trade wars have also impacted California’s foreign markets. This conference session is only 75 minutes long so register for conference, sign up for my session, and buckle up for a ride through what’s new and pending in California wine!

About the speaker: David Glancy, MS, CWE, FWS, CSS founded the San Francisco Wine School in 2011 to create the ideal educational setting from the ground up. He is one of only twelve people in the world to hold both the revered Master Sommelier diploma and Certified Wine Educator credential. A certified French Wine Scholar, Italian Wine Professional, and Certified Specialist of Spirits, Glancy has earned the credential for every program he teaches, and more. In 2012 he created the California Wine Appellation Specialist program and credential to fill a glaring void in the educational market. David’s session, “New and Pending California AVAs and Trends ” will be held on Friday, August 16 at 1:15 pm as part of the Society of Wine Educator’s 43rd Annual Conference, to be held in Washington DC.

Are you a conference speaker that would like to share a preview of your session? Contact Jane A. Nickles at jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Autumn in Franschhoek— Photo Credit: Eddie Wilson/WOSA

Today we have a conference preview from Jim Clarke, Marketing Manager with Wines of South Africa (WOSA). In this post, Jim tells us about his upcoming session on the history of South African wine production, entitled “South Africa: Wine from before America’s Birth.” Jim’s session is offered as part SWE’s 43rd Annual Conference, to be held August 14 – 16 in Washington DC.

One reductive—but nonetheless useful—cliché about South African wine is that it is “a little bit Old World, a little bit New.” This reflects two realities. One is that in character, as much as one can still speak of Old World and New World traits in wine, South Africa’s wines often fall somewhere in between. A typical South African Sauvignon Blanc, for example, would not be likely to mistaken for a Marlborough sample of the same variety, nor would one think it was a Sancerre; instead, its character would have aspects of both. The other reality reflected in this commonplace is South Africa’s lengthy history with growing winegrapes. The nation celebrated its 360^th vintage this year.

In fact, by the time our own country was struggling for its independence, South African wines were being celebrated in the courts of Europe, or at least one of them—Constantia—was. It owes its existence to Simon van der Stel, the son of a Dutch East India Company official and an Indian woman whose mother had been a slave. Van der Stel would follow in his father’s footsteps as a Company administrator. In 1679 the Company made him the tenth commander of the Cape Colony, and later promoted him to the newly created position of governor.

Groot Constantia Old Cellar—Photo Credit: Groot Constantia/WOSA

In 1685 the Commissioner of the Company, Hendrik Adriaan Van Rheede, visited the Cape. Impressed by Van der Stel’s work, he granted the Commander title to a piece of land; typically this was forbidden, to prevent conflicts between the Commander’s own interests and those of the Company. Van der Stel named the 763 hectare estate Constantia, apparently after the Commissioner’s daughter; a savvy “thank you” for a large and well-situated piece of property.

Van der Stel planted approximately 100,000 vines on the property. His interest in wine was not new; he had owned two vineyards in Holland, and he apparently brought cuttings with him from Europe when he took his post. Upon his arrival, he had been unimpressed with the wines he found at the Cape. While the Colony had been making wine for twenty years and vineyard plantings had expanded, there were few people with any real winemaking experience. Van der Stel cited unripe grapes and unsanitary barrels as the main offenders to wine quality in the Cape, and imposed fines on those who harvested too early or used inadequate vessels. He applied these sensibilities to his own property, and his wines were well-regarded. In 1699 he retired to live at Constantia full-time, and passed away there in 1712.

Groot Constantia vineyards looking over Cape Town—Photo Credit: Groot Constantia/WOSA/Graeme Robinson

The Constantia estate was sold at auction upon his death, and broken into three parts. A gentleman named Johannes Colijn eventually took ownership of Klein Constantia (a different portion of the original than today’s Klein Constantia, actually) and established an export market. By the 1730s he was finding it difficult to meet demand; fortunately, the larger Groot Constantia property was available for purchase, and he arranged for his brother-in-law to do so. For the next several decades the properties would operate more-or-less as one. By the 1740s Constantia’s sweet wines, made from red and white Muscat, were valuable enough for counterfeits were becoming a problem.

Constantia survives today as a region, but several estates include portion of the original property: Groot Constantia, Klein Constantia, Buitenverwachting, and Constantia Uitsig. Other vineyards around the base of Table Mountain, closer to Table Bay, have not survived. For the most part they have been swallowed up by Cape Town’s suburbs, one of which, Wynberg, or “Wine Mountain” at least acknowledges that history. The Company Gardens, where grapes were first planted in 1655, are a public park.  A girl’s school and the University of Cape Town occupy the grounds where Rustenberg, as the second Company farm was called, and Bosheuvel, made wine. But many properties further inland have survived.

Estates further from the city in Stellenbosch and Franschhoek still thrive. One of the oldest estates actually shares the Rustenberg name. On the slopes of Simonsberg Mountain in Stellenbosch (both maned for Simon Van Der Stel), the property has been home to vineyards since 1682. On the far side of the Simonsberg, Jean Le Long, a French Huguenot, founded Boschendal in 1685, and began growing grapes there six years later. Le Long predates the arrival of 200 French Huguenots that began in 1688 – refugees fleeing persecution after Louis the XVI revoked the Edict of Nantes.

Rust en Vrede Cape Dutch Building—Photo Credit: Charmaine Greiger/WOSA

These Huguenots provided an influx of winemaking talent. The extent of their influence may be exaggerated—not all were from the wine-growing regions of France—but at least a few seem to have succeeded and even surpassed their Dutch-descent neighbors in winegrowing. Bellingham (originally “Bellinchamp” or “pretty fields”), La Motte, and several other farms are rooted in this immigration. The Dutch had their own successes at the end of the 17^th century; Vergelegen and Rust En Vrede owe their starts to Simon Van Der Stel’s son, Willem Adriaan, though he eventually left the Cape under a cloud. Greedier than his father, he fell prey to the conflict between personal enrichment and the good of the Colony, the very conflict his father had avoided.

Each of these classic properties has their own story, contributing to the history of South African wine as a whole. Meerlust, Vergelegen’s neighbor, dates to 1693, but what we remember now is the 1980 creation of Rubicon, the Bordeaux blend that helped crack a preference for varietal wines and showed these sorts of blends could be among South Africa’s best. Bellingham created South Africa’s first varietal Shiraz, well before it became the Cape’s second most-planted red variety and the dominant variety of cutting edge regions like the Swartland. Rustenberg’s red blend was a gold standard for much of the twentieth century; today, young winemakers are embracing its unusual blend, Cinsault and Cabernet Sauvignon, with renewed interest. With all the interest South Africa’s “young gun” producers are generating today, few of with them would deny they’re part of a long history of intrepid winemakers.

Jim’s session, “South Africa: Wine from before America’s Birth” will be held on Wednesday, August 14 at 1:00 pm as part of the Society of Wine Educator’s 43rd Annual Conference, to be held in Washington DC.

Are you a conference speaker that would like to share a preview of your session? Contact Jane A. Nickles at jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

.

Today we have a conference preview from Alan Tardi. In this post, Alan tells us about his upcoming session on Nebbiolo-based wines entitled “Noble Nebbiolo.” He even gives us a sneak peak at the amazing wines that will be served. Alan’s session is offered as part SWE’s 43rd Annual Conference, to be held August 14 –  16 in Washington DC.

In Vino Nobils?

While it is often challenging to articulate wine in words, the term ‘noble’ is a particularly loaded one, partly because it is used in so many different contexts.

To begin with, there are categoric uses of the word. “Noble Grapes” refers to a group of varieties that have achieved prominence throughout the world, but membership in this elite group is somewhat subjective, ranging from six—Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Merlot—to 18 or more. What’s more, it is unclear who first created this group or why the most popular, most adaptable, most widely dispersed, commercially viable and therefore most common grape varieties of all should qualify them as noble.

In Alsace, noble status has been officially conferred on four specific varieties: Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris and Muscat. Only these grapes can be used for Grand Cru or Sélections de Grains Nobles categories, while a wine labeled Gentil must be made up of at least 50% of them.

.

There are also literal associations. The phrase “King of wines and wine of Kings” has been applied to a number of wines throughout history (Barolo and Champagne, for example) both because members of the nobility took a particular liking to them and because they were produced on estates belonging to members of the noble class. At the end of his dithyrambic poem “Bacco in Toscana” published in 1685, author Francesco Rambi declares “Montepulciano is the King of all wines!” after which it became known as Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. And Louis the XV, King of France, is said to have offered his official chief mistress Madame Pompadour a glass of Tokaji calling it “Vinum Regum, Rex Vinorum” (Wine of Kings and King of Wines).

Finally, the term is often used in a descriptive sense. Wine writers and tasters sometimes use noble as an adjective to describe the character of a grape variety or a wine made from it, as I am doing by calling my session at the 43^rd annual conference of the Society of Wine Educators “Noble Nebbiolo.”

But what does it actually mean? Or, to put it another way, what are the characteristics of a grape variety or the wine made from it that could justifiably be described as noble?

.

Before going any further, let me clarify that my session will focus on one grape variety, Nebbiolo, and feature wines in a range of typologies from the principal appellations and diverse terroirs of the three regions of northern Italy—Piemonte, Lombardia and Valle d’Aosta—that constitute its traditional home.

Just as noble people, actions or sentiments are not all the same, it is perfectly reasonable to expect that a given grape variety would express its inherent noble qualities in different ways, and that even members of the same clan or dynasty (or grape variety, in this case) would over time develop different characteristics based on the location of their domain.

So, what basic “noble” characteristics can be attributed to the Nebbiolo grapevine itself? It is a late-ripening grape which means that it often reaches maturity in mid- to late fall, long after most others have been harvested, when the days get short, the nights get cold and fog (‘nebbia’ in Italian) covers the vineyards, all of which one might say contributes austerity, restraint and a haughty aloofness to its regal character. Winegrowers must often wait with patient deference for the grapes to ripen and for a slow fermentation to run its course, and consumers must often wait for Nebbiolo-based wines to open up and show what they really have to offer.

.

Nebbiolo-based wines generally have pronounced natural tannin, notable acidity, a pale transparent color, and a surprising capacity to age and develop over time, acquiring layers of complexity as it matures.

Sometimes (as participants will see during the class) grapes from young vines or less favorable sites can be harvested a bit early to retain their crisp acidity and tart fruit and be made into a rosato or sparkling wine. In such cases the ‘noble’ lineage of the grape takes the shape of a frolicking prince or princess. But the most noble expressions of Nebbiolo tend to come from older vines harvested at peak maturity in exceptional vineyard sites with low yields, slow long fermentation and extended aging.

Finally, and contrary to membership requirements of the Noble Grapes Club, Nebbiolo is extremely selective about where it will sink its roots and reign. With the exception of some sporadic New World experiments and one isolated southern outpost, Nebbiolo grows only in specific areas of northern Italy. And this high degree of selectivity about where it will (and will not) grow seems to suggest a sort of noble birthright. But wherever it does grow, Nebbiolo demonstrates an astounding ability to express nuances of the particular environment and a particular growing season, and then transfer these factors into the wines it produces, which most always occupies top billing on the roster of wines in that area. In this sense, Nebbiolo wines are truly a noble representative of the place that they come from.

.

Of course, when it comes to wine, we can talk about it all we like, but the best spokesperson for a grape variety are the wines that are made from it. In order to ‘hear’ what they have to say you need to taste them. And that is precisely what we will do in this “Noble Nebbiolo” session.

We have a stellar lineup of 100% Nebbiolo wines in a variety of typologies (traditional method sparkling, rosato, appassimento) from all of the principal growing areas and appellations including Lombardia (Valtellina), Valle d’Aosta (Donnas), Alto Piemonte (Ghemme, Gattinara, Carema), Langhe (Barolo) and Roero.

While exploring these extremely diverse expressions of Nebbiolo based on growing area, vintage and winemaking practice, we will also look for common threads—for the fundamental inherent character of the grapevine—that run between them. And at the end we may even try to determine whether, in fact, the descriptor “noble” is an appropriate one.

You can’t have a wine tasting without wines, so here’s a big shout out of gratitude to the great producers and importers that made these exceptional examples of Nebbiolo available for my presentation at the Society of Wine Educators conference 2019:

Wineries:

• Antoniolo
• ArPePe
• Erpacrife
• Mamete Prevostini
• Cantalupo
• Cantina dei Produttori di Carema
• Caves de Donnas
• Tenuta Carretta

Importers:

• Skurnik Wines
• Free Run Wine Merchants
• Artisanal Cellars
• Massanois
• Polaner Selections

Alan’s session, “Noble Nebbiolo” will be held on Friday, August 16 at 1:15 pm as part of the Society of Wine Educator’s 43rd Annual Conference, to be held in Washington DC.

Are you a conference speaker that would like to share a preview of your session? Contact Jane A. Nickles at jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Today we have a conference preview from Nora Z. Favelukes. Nora has been one of top-rated speakers at SWE’s Annual Conferences over the last few years, and we are thrilled to have her back again in 2019. In this post, Nora tells us about her amazing adventures in Argentina—and the wines that she’ll be sharing with her very lucky audience during her session “Treasure Hunting in Argentina: Looking for New and Exciting Wines”—to be held this August in Washington DC as part of SWE’s 43^rd Annual Conference.

“For the past 30 years, I have followed the Argentine wine industry as it emerged on the world stage. It evolved from selling all their production in the domestic market to looking-out, emulating international wine styles; to looking inwards, with a fuller understanding of their own regions and terroirs. Today, modern pioneers of this new movement are creating new wine regions in the North, South, East, and West of Argentina with a renewed passion and vision.

Every way you go, producers and winemakers are crisscrossing frontiers in an explosion of creativity expanding into new altitudes, soil mapping, adopting sustainable and biodynamic practices, experimenting with micro-terroirs, Nomblot eggs and micro-vinifications. We cannot discount the influence of new local producers coming to the wine business with open and fresh eyes; new joint ventures between European, American and local wineries; the influence of foreign investments and the impact of the French, Italian and American flying winemakers.

In 2018, Maria Laura Ortiz, renowned Argentine Sommelier and Wine Consultant and I, partnered in a new joint venture, GO TO WINE to assist premium quality South American wineries to export worldwide. In preparation for our upcoming seminar at SWE’s Annual Conference, Maria Laura and I have hunted for those unique treasures that best represent the diversity of the Argentine wine industry of today.”

The Cliffs near Costa & Pampa

Adventures East—South Atlantic Ocean Wines 

On the Shores of the Unthinkable: Costa & Pampa Albariño—Chapadmalal, Buenos Aires: Located 211 miles south of Buenos Aires, Argentina’s capital city and four miles west from the South Atlantic Ocean, Costa & Pampa’s first vintage was release in 2014. The climate, unlike that of mountainous areas, is humid and cold; ideal for short cycle varieties resulting in fresher and delicate wines, with great aromatic complexity and good volume.

“In Chapadmalal, I found not only a region that is geographically similar to that of Champagne in France, but also a farmer willing to take a chance on this amazing experiment who leased 30 acres of his land for us to convert into a vineyard” stated Daniel Pi, Trapiche’s Head Winemaker.

The coastal landscape of Patagonia

Coastal Patagonia’s Only Winery: WAPISA Pinot Noir—San Javier, Rio Negro: “Wapisa” is the indigenous Patagonian word for “whale” who frequent the nearby the coast of our vineyards. Located just 12 miles from the Atlantic Ocean on the banks of the Río Negro, Wapisa is the only winery in this Argentine Patagonian terroir, which bears strong similarities to Bordeaux.

“When we arrived in this area, the land was barren and we had to start from scratch” said Patricia Ortiz, Wapisa’s owner “What started as a gamble, today is a great project with an incredible team that continuously pushes us to keep growing.” 

Wapisa is a proud Partner in Conservation of the  California Ocean Alliance.

La Pampa landscape

Adventures South—Wines of Patagonia’s continental, arid climate

The Raw and Untapped Potential of La Pampa: Bodega del Desierto Desierto Pampa Cabernet Franc—Alto Valle del Rio Colorado, La Pampa: In 2001, when a team of Argentine entrepreneurs with a budding interest in wine, saw the raw and untapped potential of the Alto Valle del Rio Colorado (635 miles southwest of Buenos Aires City) decided just there and then, to become the first wine producers in this region. Their vision was complemented by a qualified and courageous group of experts – all with the same pioneering spirit.

“The Pampean terroir is ideal for Cabernet Franc due to the extreme dryness, the constant wind and the dramatic thermal amplitude” stated Sebastian Cavagnaro, Bodega del Desierto’s Chief Winemaker.

Early frost in the Patagonia Extreme

Patagonia Extreme: Bodega Otronia 45 Rugientes White Blend—Colonia Sarmiento, Chubut: Located in Sarmiento, Chubut at 45°30′ south latitude and 1,150 miles south of Buenos Aires, Bodega Otronia is a pioneer in developing extreme vineyards in the world. Founded in 2011, this state-of-the-art winery will release its first vintage this coming Fall. Due to the frosts during the vegetative cycle, 62-mile winds and the cold and semi-arid climate, Otronia’s 123 acres of vineyards are disease-free and Organic Certified.

“Because of the unique characteristics of our terroir, our wines develop elegant complex aromas with natural acidity and great phenolic maturity” summarized Máximo Rocca, Bodega Otronia’s Commercial Director.

Adventures Northwest—High Altitude Andean Mountain Wines: The Land of the Iconic Torrontés

At the top of the Cafayate Valley

Bodegas Etchart Cafayate Gran Linaje Torrontés—Cafayate Valley, Salta: Founded in 1850 in what was then an unexplored region, Bodegas Etchart is the oldest operating winery in the Cafayate Valley and, the leading producer of Torrontés in the country. At 5,600 feet above sea level, deep sandy soils and extreme thermal amplitude this unique variety to Argentina thrives. “We are constantly working on improving the quality of our wines. From blending wines with same grapes sourced from old and younger vineyards, fermenting with wild yeasts, lowering the alcohol content and increasing the aging potential of our white wines” said Victor Marcantoni, Bodegas Etchart’s Head Winemaker.

Adventures West: Wines of the Andes Mountains

Digging in Gualtallary

It’s the Soil that Makes the Difference: Doña Paula Selección de Bodega Malbec—Gualtallary (Uco Valley, Mendoza): Doña Paula in Mendoza is the test area for a unique study: the Terroir-in-Focus Research Program dedicated to the study of the influence of the climate and soils on Malbec. Founded in 1997, Doña Paula rapidly became one of Argentina’s leading producers and exporters of Estate bottled wines worldwide.  

“The best micro-vinifications are the ones with grapes sourced in Gualtallary from limestone and rocky soils” said Doña Paula’s Chief Winemaker, Marcos Fernandez ,It produces intense wines, with great minerality and sharp tannins.”

Syrah and Garnacha Vineyards

Unusual Blends: Proemio Wines Syrah/Garnacha—Russel, Mendoza: Marcelo Bocardo, third generation winemaker and the descendant of a traditional Italian immigrant family to Mendoza founded Proemio in 2001. This small boutique winery is dedicated to the production of wines that reflect their authentic geographical identity through sustainable and organic agriculture.

“When I purchased this vineyard ten years ago” stated Marcelo Bocardo, Proemio’s Winemaker and Owner. “I found 17 acres planted with both Syrah and Garnacha. I decided there and then to co-ferment the grapes and make this unique blend where the spiciness of the Syrah is enhanced by the vibrant freshness and acidity of the Garnacha.” 

Andeluna Cabernet Franc—Gualtallary (Uco Valley, Mendoza): From its inception in 2003 and under the leadership of the Barale family, Andeluna was designed to become one of Argentina’s top producers. Their vineyards at 4,265 feet above sea level in Gualtallary, Uco Valley – the most sought after wine region in Mendoza – its rocky soils, great thermal amplitude, and sustainable practices under the careful guidance of Manuel Gonzalez Bals it’s Chief Winemaker and the consulting of  Hans Vinding-Diers.

Snow-capped Andes Mountains and vineyards

“I particularly like the area of ​​Gualtallary” stated Manuel, “The loamy-sandy-stony soils and climate, together with the low pH, thick skins and small berries intensify the aromatic expression, freshness, structure and elegance of our wines.”

About the speaker: Nora Z. Favelukes is a pioneer of premium South American wines in the United States. As an influencer, skilled spokesperson, moderator, negotiator and a natural diplomat with years of international experience, Ms. Favelukes understands the inner workings and complexities of the US, South American and European wine markets and is the president of QW US Market Experts, a wine and spirits consultancy. She is also a noted speaker specializing in European and South American wines and the US Wine Market.

Nora’s session, “Treasure Hunting in Argentina—Looking for New and Exciting Wines” will be held on Friday, August 16 at 4:45 pm as part of the Society of Wine Educator’s 43rd Annual Conference, to be held in Washington DC.

Are you a conference speaker that would like to provide a preview of your session? Contact Jane A. Nickles at jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

.

Today we have a post from Richard Leahy, a Charlottesville, Virginia-based wine professional. Richard will be leading a session entitled “Virginia Wine: 400 Years Young and World-Class” as part of SWE’s 43rd Annual Conference, to be held this August in Washington DC. Read on as Richard tells us about the little-known history of Virginia wine.

The “Acte Twelve” of the Jamestown Assembly in 1619 mandated the planting of at least ten European grapevines per household, so we are now moving in to Virginia’s fifth century of documented winegrowing.

Twenty five years ago Virginia wine was little more than a curiosity. In 2012, Steven Spurrier, the renowned British wine critic for Decanter, said “My favorite North American wine region is Virginia, because it makes the kinds of wines I like to have a second glass of.” Richard Leahy, author of Beyond Jefferson’s Vines, the definitive book on Virginia wine, will take you through highlights of the Virginia wine story, and with a curated tasting, show you the diversity and quality of Virginia wine as it moves into its fifth documented history.

.

This session will highlight some of the fascinating milestones in Virginia wine history, explain the many natural challenges of viticulture in this climate, and review the most popular wine grapes of the state. We’ll explore the ways that Virginia wines demonstrate the state’s unique terroir and take a glimpse into the future of Virginia wine.

You’ll enjoy Chardonnay that is more like that of Burgundy than California and Meritage with the unique spice and violets of Petit Verdot. Attendees will be able to taste why Cabernet Franc has undergone a renaissance in style and quality as Virginia’s most consistent red grape, and enjoy the freshness and balance of local Sauvignon Blanc. (And there’s more!)

After enjoying this class, you’ll be well-prepared to not only enjoy Virginia wines, but to show them (and your new knowledge) off to friends. After all, if Virginia wine was Thomas Jefferson’s dream, let’s toast that 200 years later we can enjoy it today!

Richard’s session— Virginia Wine: 400 Years Young and World-Class—will be held on Thursday, August 15 (2019) at 10:30 am as part of the Society of Wine Educators’ 43rd Annual Conference, to be held in Washington DC.

About the presenter: Richard Leahy is a wine professional based in Charlottesville, Virginia and coordinates the conference program for the Eastern Winery Exposition, the largest wine industry trade show east of the Rockies. He has been writing about wines of Virginia and the East since 1986, and in May 2012 his book Beyond Jefferson’s Vines, the definitive book on Virginia wine, was published to high praise from reviewers and is now available on Amazon.com in a revised second edition. Richard is a member of the American Wine Society and the Circle of Wine Writers, and also has a website and blog (richardleahy.com) focused on wines of the East.

Are you a conference speaker that would like to provide a preview of your session? Contact Jane A. Nickles at jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Today we have a post from Ben Coffelt, CSW. Ben will leading a session entitled “Tiki Time” as part of SWE’s 43rd Annual Conference, to be held this August in Washington DC. Read on as Ben tells us about a very important part of Tiki culture—the history of the Tiki mug.

Tiki mugs used by LA Speakeasy. Photo by Vincent Navarro, via Wikimedia Commons.

The Tiki mug is one of the most beloved and defining aspects of Tiki culture. In the heyday of the Tiki craze, mugs could be found in almost every home in America. Where did the practice of serving elaborate tropical drinks begin and how have they re-emerged?  While some would characterize Tiki mugs as ceramic glasses specifically depicting tikis (Polynesian idols), for the purposes of our brief history, we will be referring to all mugs used to serve Tiki drinks as “Tiki mugs.”

The first ceramic mugs were used by Trader Vic at his eponymous restaurant in the 1940s. While the original motivation for using ceramic mugs is unknown, Tiki expert and author of “The Book of Tiki”, Sven A. Kirsten, points to an evolution of the increasingly elaborate presentation of drinks at Polynesian restaurants at the time. One of the first mugs was used for the Samoan Fog Cutter and the first vessel to feature a representation of a Tiki was on a drink called the Tiki Bowl. These mugs helped contribute to the sense of escapism that Tiki bars channeled. Fueled by an increasing American interest in Polynesia and Hawaii, the mug would grow from this humble start.

Photo via Los Angeles Islander Life Magazine, circa 1960 (public domain)

In 1955, Bob Bryant, a former bartender at Trader Vic’s, opened Tiki Bob’s in San Francisco. This is most likely the birthplace of the first mug to be done in a Tiki idol style. Soon, other Polynesian and Tiki restaurants were having their own mugs made in a greater variety of shapes and done as tikis, coconuts, bamboo, or volcanoes. By the 1960s large manufacturers, such as Otagiri Mercantile Company, began producing them on a commercial scale. Restaurants had their logos added and used them as souvenirs for guests. The trend became so popular that Holland Mold Inc made ceramic molds for people to use at home to create their own Tiki mugs. They often became as important, if not more so, than the drink they held.

By the mid-1970s, Tiki was out of fashion as were the drinking vessels associated with it. Once cherished mugs ended up discarded or donated to thrift stores. Others gathered dust, forgotten on shelves or in cabinets. Classic bars and restaurants closed. Tiki was viewed as old fashioned and discos and nightclubs became the norm.

As Tiki re-emerged in the 1990s it was as a celebrated mid-century aesthetic. Décor and mugs were viewed more as art and pop art pieces, than simple decorations. Vintage mugs became sought after collectibles. Enthusiasts and collectors scoured flea markets for lost gems. The internet revolutionized the ability to hunt down hard to find mugs and offered more information on producers and history than ever before. Ebay currently has 8,000 mugs listed for sale. The website Ooga-Mooga! allow collectors to publicly display their collections and connect with others who are willing to trade or sell mugs.

.

Now the mug has returned not just at dedicated Tiki restaurants, but many bars will feature one or two Tiki drinks in themed glassware. Contemporary Tiki bars like Three Dots and a Dash in Chicago and Latitude 29 in New Orleans, feature modern, custom takes on mugs or recreations of classic designs often made by Tiki Farm or Bosko. Beautifully constructed cocktails served in elaborately designed ceramicware are perfect for Instagram. Last fall, approximately one thousand people lined up at Disneyland to try to obtain a new limited release. The mug has come full circle back to a place of prominence in American bar culture.

Ben’s session—Tiki Time—will be held on Wednesday, August 14 (2019) at 10:30 am as part of the Society of Wine Educators’ 43rd Annual Conference, to be held in Washington DC.

Are you a conference speaker that would like to provide a preview of your session? Contact Jane A. Nickles at jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org