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Here’s a newsworthy tidbit: beginning with the wines of the 2021 vintage, white wines produced under the Alsace/Vin d’Alsace AOC will be required to state their sweetness level on the label. This declaration may be narrative (using the terms sec, demi-sec, moelleux, or doux) or a graphic representation of a “sweetness scale.”

• The sweetness terms, which abide by general EU definitions, are as follows:
  • Sec: 4 g/L sugar or less, or 9 g/L (or less) provided the level of tartaric acid is within 2 g/L of the amount of sugar
  • Demi-Sec: 12 g/L sugar or less, or 18 g/L (or less) provided there is a minimum of 10 g/L of tartaric acid
  • Moelleux: 45 g/L sugar or less
  • Doux: More than 45 g/L sugar

This provision is not—yet—part of the rules and regulations for the Alsace AOC, although a proposal for a modification to the Cahier des Charges has been submitted to the INAO and was published in France’s Journal Officiel in June of 2021.  Rather, it is now codified via its publication by the Direction Générale de la Concurrence, de la Consommation et de la Répression des Fraudes/DGCCRF of France (General Directorate for Competition Policy, Consumer Affairs and Fraud Control).

Example of a sweetness scale via the DGCCRF

In the proposed modification of the appellation’s Cahier des Charges—now working its way through the legislative jungle—the new standard is applied under Article XII: Règles de Présentation et Étiquetage (Presentation and Labeling Rules), which state the following:

• Les vins blancs pour lesquels, aux termes du présent cahier des charges, est revendiquée l’appellation d’origine contrôlée “Alsace” ou “Vin d’Alsace,” à l’exception des mentions “Vendanges Tardives” et “Sélection de Grains Nobles,” qui sont présentés sous ladite appellation ne peuvent être offerts au public, expédiés, mis en vente ou vendus, sans que dans les annonces, sur les prospectus, étiquettes, factures et récipients quelconques, la mention de la teneur en sucre telle que définie par la règlementation Européenne ne soit inscrite le tout en caractères très apparents.
  • Translated and paraphrased, this states the following: The white wines labeled under these specifications as “Alsace” or “Vin d’Alsace” [with the exception of those labeled as Vendanges Tardives or Sélection de Grains nobles] may not be offered to the public, shipped, offered for sale or sold without the mention of the sugar content (as defined by EU regulations) listed on all containers in very visible characters.

It should be noted that this new ruling applies only to the standard white wines (vins blancs) of the Alsace/Vin d’Alsace AOC, and does not apply to the appellation’s red wines, rosé, or wines labeled with the term vendanges tardives or sélection de grains nobles.

We’ll be keeping an eye out for the approval of the modified Cahier des Charges, but as any wine student knows…these things take time.

References/for more information:

• Modification to the Alsace AOC Cahier des Charges, as published in the Journal Oficiel on June 2, 2021
• proposed update to the Cahier des Charges for the Alsace AOC
• Regulations—Wines Alsace Sweetness Labeling—via the DGCCRF

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Mount Kobau defines the eastern edge of the Golden Mile Slopes GI

British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley GI has a new sub-appellation: the Golden Mile Slopes GI!

Located in the southern portion of the Okanagan Valley, the newly-approved Golden Mile Slopes GI covers the rolling hills and some of the valley floor located between Mount Kobau (to the east) and the floodplain of the Okanagan River (to the south). The Golden Mile Bench GI (approved in 2015) is located along the new appellation’s northern border.

• According to the technical description of the new appellation (submitted to the British Columbia Wine Authority in September of 2020), the unique features of the Golden Mile Slopes GI include the following:
  • Soils based on sediment, sand, gravel, and alluvial fans deposited by glacial retreat
  • Small lakes—known as kettle lakes—located in a few areas of low elevation
  • A warm, semi-arid climate with less than 350 mm/14 inches of rainfall per year

Map of the Golden Mile Slopes AVA via: BCVQA.ca

The long, narrow Golden Mile Slopes GI encompasses a total of 590 hectares (1,260 acres). The area is home to just over 37 small commercial vineyards, with approximately 165 ha (408 acres) planted to vinifera vines. At last count, the area included 9 commercial wineries. In addition to vineyards, the area contains fruit trees and annual vegetable production.

Red grapes occupy just over 60% of the commercial vineyard planting in the Golden Mile Slopes GI. Merlot is (by far) the leading red variety, followed by Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Pinot Noir.

Pinot Gris—the leading white grape of the region—is accompanied by Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurztraminer, and a smattering of Riesling.

Golden Mile Slopes is the fifth sub-appellation of British Columbia’s larger Okanagan Valley GI; the others include Golden Mile Bench, Skaha Bench, Naramata Bench, and Okanagan Falls.

References/for more information:

• BCWA | The British Columbia Wine Authority (bcvqa.ca)
• Map-Golden-Mile-Slopes.pdf (bcvqa.ca)
• 2020-Sept.-29-Proposal-for-Golden-Mile-Slopes-New-Sub-GI
• 2020-Sept.-29-Technical-Report-for-Golden-Mile-Slopes-New-Sub-GI
• Maverick Estate Winery — Wines With A Sense Of Place (maverickwine.ca)

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Vineyards in Bolgheri

The Bolgheri DOC—along with its famous sidekick the Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC—is famous for bold, red wines with the finest “Super Tuscan” pedigree. As such, I was fascinated to learn that when the Bolgheri DOC was first established—in 1983—the appellation was approved for white wines and rosé only, reflecting the traditional production of this region along the Tuscan coast.

Later—in the 1990s—the appellation rules were revised, allowing for the production of red wines based on the range of typical Tuscan red grapes (Sangiovese and friends). Even still, it wasn’t until the 2011 set of appellation updates that red wines based on including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc were allowed to be produced under the Bolgheri DOC.

Which brings us back to today’s news, which deals with a revision in the production standards for white wines—Bolgheri Bianco DOC—produced in the famous appellation. This was announced on December 1 (2021) when the news of the changes to the Disciplinare di Produzione for the Bolgheri DOC were published in the Gazzetta Ufficiale della Repubblica Italiana.

• According to the new standards, Bolgheri Bianco DOC may be produced using the following formulas:
  • Any blend or amount of Vermentino, Sauvignon Blanc, and/or Viognier
  • A maximum of 40% “other white grapes suitable for cultivation in Tuscany”
    • (Trebbiano Toscano is known to be planted in small amounts in the region.)
  • Varietally-labeled white wines may continue to be produced using (a minimum of 85%) Vermentino or Sauvignon Blanc.

Map of the Bolgheri DOC via: www.bolgheridoc.com

Previously, Bolgheri Bianco was required to be produced using a matrix of prescribed “maximum amounts” of certain grapes (including 70% Vermentino (max), 40% Sauvignon Blanc (max), 40% Trebbiano Toscano (max) and 30% other white grapes (max).

According to statistics available on the website of the Consortium (Consorzio di Tutela Bolgheri e Bolgheri Sassicaia), about 11% of the appellation’s total 1,370 hectares (3,385 acres) of grapes are planted to white varieties. Of the white grapes, Vermentino—occupying about 120 hectares (297 acres)—is by far the most widely planted. Sauvignon Blanc comes in second with about 20 hectares (50 acres), followed by 8 hectares (20 acres) of Viognier. Other white grapes are present as well, in trace amounts.

For comparison’s sake, the most widely planted grape in the appellation is Cabernet Sauvignon, clocking in at a total of 502 hectares/ acres.

In other Bolgheri news: Included in the updates is a new regulation that requires any wine bottled under the Bolgheri DOC or Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC to include the term “Toscana” on the label above the term Bolgheri. This seems like a good marketing move.

References/for more information:

• Gazetta Ufficiale Dec 1 2021-Bolgheri DOC (see page 37)
• https://www.bolgheridoc.com/

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

On August 25, 2021, the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States announced a newly approved American Viticultural Area (AVA) for the Commonwealth of Virginia: the Virginia Peninsula AVA. When this new AVA comes into force—on September 24, 2021—the total number of AVAs in the United States will be 258; of these, 7 will be located in Virginia. Note: Virginia also contains portions of two multi-state AVAs: Shenandoah Valley (shared between Virginia and West Virginia), and Appalachian High Country (shared between Virginia, North Carolina, and Tennessee).

The Virginia Peninsula AVA covers a total of 673,059 acres in southeastern Virginia. The entirety of the area is located on the Atlantic Coastal Plain at elevations ranging from sea level to approximately 250 feet. The area is defined by the York and Pamunkey Rivers to the north and the James River to the south. The counties of James City, York, New Kent, and Charles City as well as several independent cities are included within the new AVA’s boundaries.

According to the original petition, the distinguishing features of the Virginia Peninsula AVA include the following:

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Climate: The area experiences a humid/subtropical climate, demonstrated by its long, humid summers and moderate to mild winters. The growing season averages 193 days and typically lasts between April 10 (average date of the last frost) and the end of October/beginning of November (typical harvest dates).

Weather-related challenges in the area include an average of more than 50 days with high temperatures above 90°F during the growing season (and the resulting slow down of photosynthesis) as well as frequent rain approaching the harvest season—as well as the occasional risk of tropical storms.

Geology: The topsoil in this low-elevation coastal plain includes sand, mud, and gravel—much of it formed during times of higher sea levels and/or coastal flooding. The underlying bedrock is marine sedimentary, comprised mainly of sandstone, marine fossils, and clay. These soils are easily fractured and conducive to viticulture.

At the time that the proposal was submitted (in September of 2020), just over 112 acres were planted to commercial vineyards. There are currently at least five commercial vineyards and five bonded wineries operating within the Virginia Peninsula AVA/. These include the Williamsburg Winery, Gauthier Vineyards, New Kent Winery, Saude Creek Vineyards, and Upper Shirley Vineyards.

A wide range of wine types and styles are produced within the Virginia Peninsula AVA. Classic vinifera grapes—including Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Chardonnay, Riesling, and Viognier—are well-represented, as are the (relatively obscure) vinifera grapes Tannat, Petite Verdot, and Petit Manseng. Hybrid varieties—including Norton, Chambourcin, and Vidal Blanc—are grown throughout the region as well.

Welcome to the world, Virginia Peninsula AVA!

References/for more information:

• Petition – Virginia Peninsula AVA
• Federal Register: Establishment of the Virginia Peninsula Viticultural Area
• Virginia Peninsula Named Newest Wine Region In The Commonwealth | Peninsula Chronicle

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org