Nizza DOCG: Official at Last!

Photo via: https://ec.europa.eu/info/food-farming-fisheries

Photo via: https://ec.europa.eu/info/food-farming-fisheries

Nearly five years after its approval by Italy’s Ministry of Agriculture and its original application to the EU, the Nizza DOCG is signed, sealed, and delivered…and has received its final approval and registration as an EU-protected designation of origin (PDO) product for its Barbera-based red wines.

Click here to view the announcement in the June 12, 2019 edition of the Official Journal of the European Union.

We’ve been enjoying the deep red wines of the Nizza DOCG (produced in Piedmont, Italy) for several years now, but as a reminder, here are the rules and regulations for Nizza DOCG wines:

  • The place: All grapes must be grown within a delineated geographic zone, which was an already-established subzone of the Barbera d’Asti DOCG. The allowed communes of production include Agliano Terme, Belveglio, Calamandrana, Castel Boglione, Castelnuovo Belbo, Castelnuovo Calcea, Castel Rocchero, Cortiglione, Incisa Scapaccino, Mombaruzzo, Mombercelli, Nizza Monferrato, Vaglio Serra, Vinchio, Bruno, Rocchetta Palafea, Moasca, and San Marzano Oliveto.
  • The vines: Every vineyard destined for the Nizza DOCG must be registered with the Consortium and tout particular soils and exposures.  Vines must be entirely estate, planted on the slopes of hills facing south-east to south-west.
  • The harvest: Harvest must be done entirely by hand.
  • The grapes: 100% Barbera
  • Alcohol: Minimum 13% abv
  • Aging: Total minimum aging is 18 months from January 1 of the year following harvest. Total aging time must include at least 6 months in oak.
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In addition, all wine bearing the “Nizza DOCG” designation must meet the standards set forth by the consortium for organoleptic properties and laboratory analysis. If a wine does not meet with the consortium’s approval, it may be de-classified and bear the title of Barbera d’Asti DOCG, Monferrato Rosso DOC, Piemonte Barbera DOC, or Piemonte Rosso DOC (assuming, of course, that the wine meets the standards of the individual appellation). Interestingly enough, one facet of the consortium’s laboratory analysis is a  minimum requirement of 26 g/L “dry extract.”

Welcome to the world, Nizza DOCG—or perhaps we should say “Congratulations on your promotion, Nizza DOCG!” Either way, it’s great to see Nizza get the respect it deserves!

P.S. The EU must have had a busy week, as the June 12, 2019 edition of the Official Journal of the European Union noted the official registration of three other wine appellations—we’ll have more information on this tomorrow!

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

References/for more information:

Zirbenz, Vermouth, Gruyère: Gifts of the European Alps

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The European Alps—stretching from France, Italy, and Switzerland through Germany and Austria and Slovenia—contain within them a diverse series of ecosystems. These include the Alpine lowlands—rich with deciduous trees and ideal for farming and vineyards. Higher up, the area is known for conifer forests of fir, spruce, and pine. Above the tree line, the valleys explode with the plants of the Alpine meadows: herbs, grasses, wildflowers, and shrubs.

The bounty of the Alps is reflected in the wine, food, and spirits of the region. These include:

  • Absinthe: The first-ever Absinthe Distillery was opened in 1797 by Henri-Louis Pernod in the Swiss town of Couvet [now part of Val-de-Travers])
  • Vermouth: The town of Chambéry, located in the Alps of Eastern France, has long been a center of vermouth production and is now home to several brands of vermouth including Dolin, Routin, and C. Cosmoz.
  • The wines of the Alps, which include those produced in the French regions of Jura and Savoie and Italy’s Val d’Aosta.
  • The wines of Switzerland, which include some fascinatingly obscure wines produced from the native grapes of region—such as Chasselas, Amigne of Vétroz, and Cornalin du Valais.
  • Botanical liqueurs: A range of fascinating and historic botanical liqueurs that includes Chartreuse, Génépy des Alpes, and Bonal.
  • Cheese: The legendary dairy farms of the Alps produce a range of cheeses that includes Emmental, Gruyère, Appenzeller, Comté, Abondance, and Fontina Val D’Aosta (as well as fondue and raclette).
Photo by Moroder (derivative work) via Wikimedia Commons

Photo by Moroder (derivative work) via Wikimedia Commons

And then there’s Zirbenz, known as the Stone Pine Liqueur of the Alps. Zirbenz is a sweet, slightly bitter, fruity, and resinous liqueur flavored with the immature fruit (cones) of the Zirbelkiefer tree (also known as the Arolla Stone Pine Tree). The Arolla Stone Pine grows in the Alps and Carpathian Mountains of central Europe, and can thrive at elevations up to 2,300 meters (7,500 ft) above sea level.

Zirbenz is produced at the Josef Hofer Distillery in Steiermark (Styria), Austria. After the unopened (immature) cones of the trees are harvested, they are sliced open and macerated in a base spirit. This provides the liqueur with its natural earthy-red color and its slightly bitter, tannic finish. It’s something you have to experience to believe.

References/for further learning:

Big News: The EU Publishes the 2019 Spirit Drinks Regulations

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Big news! After years of parliamentary debate, the new spirits regulations of the EU—known as the rules regarding the “Scope, Definition, and Categories” of Spirits Drinks—has been published in the Official Journal of the European Union (May 17, 2019). These new rules will apply beginning on May 25, 2021.

The most interesting updates (imho) are those that implement some limits on the inclusion of sugar or other sweeteners. For instance:

  • Vodka “may be sweetened in order to round off the final taste. However, the final product may not contain more than 8 grams of sweetening products per litre.”
  • Rum “Rum may be sweetened in order to round off the final taste. However, the final product may not contain more than 20 grams of sweetening products per litre.”
  • Whisky (whiskey) was never allowed to contain sweeteners under the EU laws, however, the new regulation states it quite clearly: “Whisky or whiskey shall not be sweetened, even for rounding off the taste, or flavoured, or contain any additives other than plain caramel used for adjusting the colour.”

The new laws also provide the following definition of “single malt” whisky: “The legal name of ‘whisky’ or ‘whiskey’ may be supplemented by the term ‘single malt’ only if it has been distilled exclusively from malted barley at a single distillery.”

In addition, under the new regulations, there will be 44 categories of EU spirits. (Under the previous regulations, there were 46.) The changes to the categories include the following:

  • Category 13: The name “Bierbrand or eau de vie de bière” has been updated to read “Beer Spirit”
  • Category 28: The spirit known as “Anis” may also be known as “janeževec”
  • Category 32: A category for “Sloe-aromatised spirit drink” or “Pacharán” has been added
  • The separate category for Crème de cassis has been eliminated, but the product has been added to the discussion of Category 14 “Crème de (supplemented by the name of a fruit or other raw material used)”
  • The separate product categories for Guignolet and Punch au rhum have been eliminated, but definitions for these products have been added to the category of liqueurs (category 33)

The following specific rules are also noted:

  • Rum-Verschnitt is a product of Germany made by mixing rum with neutral spirits.
  • Slivovice, produced in Czechia, is a blend of plum spirit (plum brandy) and neutral spirits.
  • Guignolet Kirsch, produced in France, is a mixture of guignolet and kirsch.

These laws do not change the current geographical indications of any spirits; all PGI- and PDO-designated spirits remain as such.

It will be fascinating to see how these new rules affect the spirit drinks we know and love!

If you are so inclined, you may read all 127 pages of the new regulations here: New Spirits Drinks Regulations EU May 2019

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles, your blog administrator

 

Welcome to the World, Naramata Bench and Skaha Bench!

Deep Roots Winery - photo via the Naramata Bench Wineries Association

Deep Roots Winery – photo via the Naramata Bench Wineries Association

On May 13, 2019, the British Columbia Vintners Quality Alliance announced the approval and registration of two new geographical indications—Naramata Bench and Skaha Bench. Both of these areas are contained within and considered to be sub-appellations of the larger Okanagan Valley GI—itself located in the Canadian province of British Columbia just north of the US border.

The new appellations were approved by the British Columbia Wine Authority in January 2019; at that time the proposals (recommendations) were sent to the Minister of Agriculture as required under British Columbia’s “Wines of Marked Quality” regulations. On May 13 the registrations were complete.

Here are some details concerning these new GIs:

Naramata Bench: The Naramata Bench GI occupies the bench lands located along the south and east side of Lake Okanagan, extending north from Penticton Creek to the edge of Okanagan Mountain Park.  The area consists of rolling hills and a diversity of soils that make for a range of microclimates; however, the area tends to be slightly warmer—and enjoys a longer growing period and more frost free days—than the surrounding areas.

There are more than 30 wineries located within the Naramata Bench GI, including Bella Wines (specializing in sparkling wines), D’Angelo Estate Winery, Deep Roots Winery, and Serendipity Winery. See the website of the Naramata Bench Winery Association for a complete list. The entirety of the Naramata Bench GI covers just under 3,650 hectares; of these, 250 hectares (620 acres) are currently planted to vine.  The leading grapes of the region include Merlot, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir.

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Skaha Bench: The Skaha Bench GI is located entirely atop of—and named for—a geological terrace that runs alongside the eastern edge of Lake Skaha. The area, located to the east and south of the city of Penticton, consists mainly of west-facing slopes that allow for cool air to drain downward toward the lake shore. This makes the land atop the 10-kilometer-long (6.2-mile-long) Skaha Bench slightly warmer than most of the surrounding area.

Wineries located within the Skaha Bench GI include Black Dog Cellars, Blasted Church Vineyards, Crescent Hill  Winery, Painted Rock Estate Winery, and Pentâge Winery. The entirety of the Skaha Bench GI covers just under 365 hectares; of these, 75 hectares (185 acres) are currently planted to vine.

With the approval of the Naramata Bench and Skaha Bench GIs, the Okanagan Valley now contains four total sub-appellations, including the previously-approved Okanagan Falls (established in 2018) and Golden Mile (established in 2014) areas.

References/for further information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles – your blog administrator

Guest Post: Ampelos Cellars: Triple-Certified and Rocking the Sta. Rita Hills

Today we have a guest post from Kate Brandt. While Kate was a student in my CSW online prep class, she mentioned on our class forum that the winery where she worked—Ampelos Cellars—was the first vineyard in the US to be “triple certified” organic, biodynamic, and sustainable. I was fascinated by her story and asked if she would like to write a blog post about the company. Lucky for us, she agreed, and we are so thankful to have Kate tell us this fascinating tale!

The Story of Ampelos Cellars, by Kate Brandt

As a Navy Spouse, I have had the opportunity to travel all over the world and visit some amazing places.  While living in Italy, I visited a small, 7-generation, family owned, organically farmed vineyard.  It was there I had my ‘A-HA’ wine moment and knew I wanted to spend the rest of my life learning about wine. It wasn’t until eight years later, when our family was stationed at Vandenberg Air Force Base in Central California that I got that opportunity … when I started working for Ampelos Cellars.

Peter and Rebecca Wonk

Peter and Rebecca Wonk

Owned and operated by Peter and Rebecca Work, Ampelos Cellars is the first vineyard in the United States to be triple certified Organic (USDA CCOF Organic), Biodynamic (Demeter) and Sustainability in Practice (SIP).  Located in the beautiful Santa Rita Hills wine region, Ampelos Cellars focuses on creating minimally invasive wines that tell a fantastic story about the soil and vines, making it easy for the consumer to enjoy the wines while creating their own great memories and stories to tell.

Peter and Rebecca bought their property in 1999 for a future a retirement project.  What a great and romantic dream, to wake up in the morning and have coffee while watching their dogs run through the vines, right!?  Then, a series of cancelled meetings following the 9/11 World Trade Center attack had them thinking they were done with the corporate world.  They pushed up their retirement dream and started in making wine full time.  In 2001, they planted their first vines – Pinot Noir, Syrah, Grenache and Viognier.  In 2004, they harvested their first 15 acres, and, in 2006, they converted their vineyard to organic and biodynamic farming.  They achieved their SIP certification in 2008, and their organic and biodynamic certifications in 2009.

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But what do all these certifications mean to the world of wine?

Organic Farming: Simply put, the main concept of organic farming is zero impact on the environment.

Organic farming follows standards for the use of natural fertilizers such as compost manure and biological pest control such as ladybugs and chickens instead of synthetic pesticides.  Also, organic farming uses techniques such as crop rotation, cover cropping and reduced tillage. This exposes less carbon to the atmosphere resulting in more soil organic carbon.  All of these practices are aimed to protect the earth, thus feeding the soil to feed the plant.

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Biodynamic Farming: Biodynamic farming was originally introduced in 1924, when a group of European farmers approached Dr. Rudolf Steiner (noted scientist, philosopher, and founder of the Waldorf School) after noticing a rapid decline in seed fertility, crop vitality and animal health.

Quartz crystals are buried in female cow horns because they are made of silicon which add more nutrients to the soil

Quartz crystals are buried in female cow horns because they are made of silicon which add more nutrients to the soil

It was the first of the organic agricultural movements when an English Baron, Lord Northbourne, coined the term “organic farming”, and the concept of “farm as an organism” was adapted.  It has similar ideas to organic farming in that it practices soil fertility and plant growth. However, there is a larger emphasis on spiritual and mystical perspectives such as choosing when to plant, cultivate or harvest crops based on phases of the moon or zodiac calendar.

Some biodynamic compounds used include:

  • Cow manure sprayed in the soil — Stimulates soil structure, humus formation, bacteria, soil life, fungi and brings energy and vitality to the roots. This regulates levels of limestone and nitrogen in the soil and increases water holding capacity of the soil.
  • Silica (quartz crystals) sprayed on the foliage — Allows leaves, shoots and clusters to enhance their use of light and heat. It improves photosynthesis, and assists with the plants assimilation of atmospheric forces.
  • Yarrow added to the compost pile — Attracts trace elements of sulfur and potassium, aiding plant growth.
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Sustainability In Practice: While Organic Certification only addresses the prohibition of synthetic pesticides and fertilizers, SIP addresses the whole farm by looking at how the farmer gives back to the community, environment and business.  The main goal is to help ensure both natural and human resources are protected.

There are 10 areas of SIP practices. Examples include:

  • Conservation and Enhancement of Biological Diversity — enhances and protects a biologically diverse agricultural ecosystem while maintaining productive vineyards.
  • Vineyard Acquisition/Establishment and Management — focuses on the decisions affecting the vineyard’s ability to sustainably produce high quality fruit with minimum inputs and manipulations.
  • Soil Conservation and Water Quality – focuses on protecting the resources necessary for plant life including land, soil, and water.
  • Pest Management – focuses on pest management rather than pest control, including controlling weeds, root insects, canopy insects, and diseases.
Chickens used for pest control and natural fertilizer to the soil

Chickens used for pest control and natural
fertilizer to the soil

Differences between the main farming practices:

  • Conventional
    • Get the biggest yields possible
    • Spray artificial pesticides and fertilizers
    • Quick profitability
  • Organic
    • Does not spray artificial pesticides or fertilizers
    • Does not focus on other farming aspects (energy, fertilizer, water conservation, etc.)
  • Biodynamic
    • Treats the whole ranch as one system; everything is in balance with Mother Nature
    • Waste of one thing is the energy for something else.
  • Sustainability In Practice
    • Focuses on energy, employee practices, water conservation, for example
    • Breaks farming down into 10 areas (some listed here): energy, water conservation, social equity, pest management, etc.

Ampelos is the Greek word for vine. Peter and Rebecca named the winery Ampelos because they believe every great wine begins with the vine and health of the vineyard. They have successfully achieved their dream of creating well-crafted, clean, natural wines through eco-friendly wine making. When I was in Italy, I realized I wanted to start a journey of my own in the wine industry. I had no idea then my journey would bring me full circle to a family-owned, triple-certified vineyard. I am lucky to learn from Peter and Rebecca and benefit from their experiences with every bottle I share as I continue on my voyage of wine with a full glass!

About the author: Kate Brandt is a proud Navy spouse and mother of two energetic girls.  She loves to travel, learning about (and drinking) wine, and enjoying treasured friendships.

Dispatch from the Muscadet AOC

The Erdre River at Nantes

The Erdre River at Nantes

There are some people that consider Muscadet to be a rather uninteresting wine. After all (they may argue), it’s old-fashioned, it is a mono-cépage (wine produced from a single grape variety), and the grape itself—Melon de Bourgogne—is rather neutral in aromas and flavors. 

Others would argue that Muscadet—the leading wine of the Loire Valley’s Pays Nantais and produced in four separate appellations including Muscadet AOC, Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine AOC, Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu AOC, and Muscadet Coteaux de la Loire AOC—is complex, delicious, and fascinating. After all, the Pays Nantais is itself somewhat complicated, with a great diversity in its topography, soils, and micro-climates. Combine that with the fact that the wine is often put through sur lie aging, and you have a region that can produce a wine that may show up in a variety of styles from light, citrus, and mineral-scented to rich, yeasty, and full of tropical fruit flavors.

While we’re on the subject of Muscadet, here are a few more fascinating facts about the grape, the wine, and the region:

The Year was 1937: The Muscadet AOC was originally approved on September 23, 1937—making it one of the oldest AOCs for wine in France. The very first wine-specific AOCs were approved on May 15, 1936.

Photo of Lake Grand-Lieu via www.france-voyage.com

Photo of Lake Grand-Lieu via www.france-voyage.com

La Lac de Grand-Lieu: Lake Grand Lieu (La Lac de Grand-Lieu) is located about 8 miles (14 km) south of the city of Nantes. The lake stretches across 6,000 hectares in winter, when it is considered the largest natural lake in France. Lake Grand Lieu was ceded to the country of France in the early 1980s under the condition that it be declared a national nature reserve. The lake contains four distinct habitats—including open water, a water lily bed, a reed bed and several meadows that flood for six to eight months a year. More than 500 species of plants make their home on the lake, and over 270 species of birds fly through the region each year along their migratory route towards the Atlantic Coast. The area is also home to ducks, geese, otters, and frogs. As the lake is 100% a nature preserve, access is limited and most forms of boating and fishing are not allowed. However, there are 7 members of the traditional fishing community that have been assigned a special authorization to fish during certain times of the year.

Le Muscadet Nouveau est arrivé: Muscadet AOC is allowed to be bottled using the term “Nouveau” or “Primeur.” Muscadet Nouveau AOC may be released on the third Thursday of November (which is, it seems, a very good day to host a wine party).

 Map of the Muscader AOC via the INAO

Map of the Muscadet AOC via the INAO

The Muscadet AOC: The Muscadet AOC is large area, starting just east of the place where the Loire River meets the Atlantic Coast and extending inland for almost 55 miles (90 km) to the western edge of the Anjou District. The majority of the area is located within the Loire-Atlantique Département, but small portions extend into the Maine-et-Loire and Vendée Département as well. Many of the vineyards are located to the south and east of the city of Nantes; others are concentrated along the Loire River (and its famous tributaries, including the Sèvre, the Erdre, and the Maine) as well as the area surrounding Grand Lieu Lake.

Clisson, Gorges, and Le Pallet: The Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine AOC, tucked between the Sèvre and the Maine Rivers close to where they flow northwest in the Loire River, contains three (smallish) sub-regions: Clisson, Gorges, and Le Pallet. These three sub-regions are delineated based on soil types—Clisson is granite-based, Gorges rests on clay and gabbro, and Le Pallet is known for gneiss and quartz. Wines labeled with these sub-regions—often referred to as crus—must be produced from grapes grown on these soils. The three sub-regions also have varying requirements for sur lie aging and total aging before release, and wine are often aged on the lees for two years or more. Click here for a map of the sub-regions of the Muscadet Sevre et Maine AOC, via the INAO.

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Le Grand Hiver:  On January 5, 1709, much of Northern Europe woke up to a deep freeze. The freezing temperatures—which spread from England (where they called it “The Great Frost”) across France (where they called it Le Grand Hiver) and Northern Italy, through Scandinavia and parts of Russia—lasted almost three months. This was considered to be the coldest winter in Europe in over 500 years. During this time, Elizabeth Charlotte, the Duchess of Orléans wrote a letter from her Loire Valley home exclaiming, “Never in my life have I seen a winter such as this one; the wine freezes in bottles.” Not long after The Great Frost, red grapes were outlawed in Nantes and the area became (for a time) a white wine-only region. It was during this time that the cold-hardy Melon de Bourgogne grape came to dominate the vineyards of the Pays Nantais.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles, your blog administrator…

Welcome to the World, VCIG Cebreros!

Logo of the DOP Cebreros via http://dopcebreros.com/

Logo of the DOP Cebreros via http://dopcebreros.com/

After several years of application status, the wine region of Cebreros has (as of April 11, 2019) been recognized as a Vino de Calidad Indicación Geográfica (VCiG) by the European Union.

In the Spanish system of wine classification, VCIG wines are included in the protected designation of origin (DOP/PDO) tier. The VCIG classification is seen as a “stepping stone” to the higher designation of origin (DO) status. VCIG areas are considered eligible for promotion to DO after five years.

The new appellation is located in the southern section of the province of Ávila, which is itself located in southern section of the autonomous community of Castilla y León. The region stretches across 35 municipalities and includes a portion of the Sierra de Gredos mountain range as well as the valleys of the Alberche and the Tiétar Rivers (both tributaries of the Tagus/Tejo).

The area has a long history of wine production, dating as far back as 1273 when the oak forests of the area began to be cleared to make room for agriculture, including vineyards and wine production. These days, the area has over 375 hectares (927 acres) planted to vine. 70% of the vineyards are Garnacha Tinta (red Grenache), sometimes known by the local name “Gironet.” The remainder is mostly Albilla Real (a white variety).

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The VCIG is approved for the production of still (non-sparkling) wines in red, white, and rosé. Some of the details of these wines are as follows:

  • Red Wines: Must be produced from a minimum of 95% Garnacha Tinta, should be “clear in appearance, with cherry-red tones and touches of violet;” minimum 13% abv
  • White wines: Must be produced using 100% Albillo Real grapes, should be “clear and brilliant, with a fruity fragrance;” minimum 12% abv
  • Rosé wines: Must be produced from a minimum of 95% Garnacha Tinta, should be “clear and brilliant, and their color ranges from pale pink to strawberry-pink or raspberry;” minimum 12% abv
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The VCIG Cebreros is not located within any of Spain’s other protected designations of origin (PDOs) for wine. It is, however, located within the larger Vino de la Tierra-Castilla y León appellation (a protected geographical indication, or PGI) that covers the entirety of the autonomous community of Castilla y León.

Welcome to the world, VCIG Cebreros!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles, your blog administrator

Meet the Board: Meg Hansen, CSW, CSS

Meg Hansen enjoying a tasting at Frank Family Vineyard in Napa

Meg Hansen enjoying a tasting at Frank Family Vineyard in Napa

Meg (Margaret) Hansen, CSW, CSS is one of the newest members of the Society of Wine Educators (SWE) Board of Directors. Several years ago, Meg experienced an amusing “accidental” introduction to SWE as she was serving on the wine committee of the Minnehaha Country Club. It seems that the club’s chef was scheduled to take the Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) exam, but by the time the exam rolled around he was no longer employed there. As such, Meg had a “last minute” opportunity to step up and take the exam and by doing so, became determined to learn more about wine and to achieve the CSW. Within a short time, she had earned the CSW as well as the Hospitality Beverage Specialist Certificate (HBSC) and the Certified Specialist of Spirits (CSS) as well. Meg is currently a Certified Wine Educator (CWE) aspirant and has attended the last three conferences as well as dozens of our certification summits and webinars!

In her professional life, Meg is a physician assistant who at one time practiced in the allergy and asthma field and served as a professor in the South Dakota University physician assistant program. For the past 13 years she has been the executive director of the South Dakota Board of Medical and Osteopathic Examiners—the licensing board for physicians and allied health professions who hold a South Dakota license.

As the chair of the Minnehaha Country Club’s wine committee, Meg leads a group that organizes monthly wine dinners and tastings designed to educate the club’s staff, members, and public guests about the wide world of wine and spirits. She wears her CSW and CSS pins at every opportunity and if they do not get noticed, much to the chagrin of her family, she is more than happy to point them out.

Welcome to the Board, Meg Hansen!

Dispatch from Vinos de Madrid DO (and the announcement of a new sub-region)!

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Madrid is a beautiful city, known for world-class dining amazing scenery, and beautiful architecture. If you visit, you’ll want to take in the Prado Museum as well as the Museo Reina Sofia, Retiro Park, the Gran Via, and the Palacio Real (just to get you started).

Madrid is also the name given to one of the seventeen autónomias (autonomous communities) of Spain. The autónomia of Madrid is located somewhat in the middle of the country, bordering Castilla–La Mancha and Castilla y León. The city of Madrid is the capital city of the area and—with a population of over 3 million people—by far the largest.

Logo via: http://www.vinosdemadrid.es/es/

Logo via: http://www.vinosdemadrid.es/es/

The autónomia of Madrid is also a wine-producing area, and has its own geographical indication: Vinos de Madrid Denominación de Origen (DO). The Vinos de Madrid produces a wide range of wines, including tinto (red), blanco (white), and rosado (rosé). The main authorized grape varieties for these wines are as follows:

  • Red and rosé: Tinto Fino (Tempranillo), Garnacha Tinta (Grenache Noir), Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, or Syrah
  • White: Malvar, Albillo (Albillo Real), Airén, Viura (Macabeo), Torrontés, Parellada, Moscatel de Grano Menudo (Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains)

Traditional Method sparkling wines—known as Vino Espumoso—are produced as well. Vino Espumoso de Madrid is required to be aged on the lees for a minimum of 9 months; however, the only producer in the region—Bodegas Jesús Díaz e Hijos—ages their bubbly sur lie for at least three years. The grapes allowed in the sparkling wines of Vinos de Madrid DO include the following Albillo (Albillo Real), Torrontés, Viura (Macabeo), Parellada, Malvar, Garnacha Tinta (Grenache Noir) and Tinto Fino (Tempranillo).

Map via www.vinosdemadrid.es

Map via www.vinosdemadrid.es

The DO is also approved for the production of a unique wine known as Vino Sobremadre. Vino Sobremadre is produced in both red and white styles, and involves a post-fermentation maceration of 90 to 180 days on the grape skins and lees (the madre).

The Vinos de Madrid DO was first established in 1990. Soon thereafter, three sub-regions— Arganda, Navalcarnero, and San Martín de Valdeiglesias—were approved. On March 20, 2019, the Consejo Regulador announced a new sub-region to be known as El Molar.

The new sub-region of ​​El Molar is the only one located in the north of the Vinos de Madrid region, and currently has approximately 600 hectares (1,500 acres) planted to vine (mainly Granacha Tinta and Malvar). The El Molar region stretches between the River Guadalix and the River Jarama, stretching into the Sierra Norte de Madrid Mountains (part of the Sierra de Guadarrama Range) and the Jarama Valley. Wineries in this area are located just to the north of the city of Madrid—and close enough for a day trip. If you leave by 5 pm, you can be back in the city for dinner at the Mercado de San Miguel.

 References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles, your blog administrator

Lucky Lucido

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According to the website of the Consorzio di tutela vini Sicilia DOC, wines produced from the Cataratto Bianco Comune and Cataratto Bianco Lucido varieties may now be labeled using the term “Lucido.”

Lucido is a historical name for the Catarrato grape, and the Consorzio has taken this step due to the belief that the grape variety “Cataratto” is not widely known, and—particularly in the international markets—considered hard to pronounce. It is believed that these factors are making the wine less appealing to some consumers.

Catarrato is an ancient grape variety and native to the island of Sicily. According to Jancis Robinson, et al, in the book Wine Grapes, it was described as a Sicilian wine grape in 1696 by the Italian naturalist Francesco Cupani in the work “Hortus Catholicus.” Catarrato/Lucido is believed to be an offspring of the Garganega grape variety (which is itself best-known famous as the main grape variety of the Soave DOC). Garganega is also mentioned as the likely parent of Albana, Malvasia Bianca, and Trebbiano Toscano (among others)—giving the grape many possible siblings. Catarrato itself—along with Muscat of Alexandria—is believed to be the parent of Grillo, another important Sicilian variety.

Photo via: siciliadoc.wine/en/

Photo via: siciliadoc.wine/en/

Two “types” of Catarrato are often cited in wine documents (and wine labels): Cataratto Bianco Comune and Cataratto Bianco Lucido. Previously, it was assumed that these terms represented two distinct grape varieties, but recent evidence has shown that they are merely two clones of the same variety. According to Wine Grapes, it is proper to use the name “Catarrato Bianco” to refer to either clone. In this new ruling by the Consorzio of the Silcilia DOC, the name Lucido may apply to either clone.

Catarrato is the most widely grown grape on the island of Sicily, and despite its relative lack of acclaim, is the second-most-widely grown white grape in all of Italy. One reason for its relative obscurity is no doubt that a good deal of Catarrato grapes are used in wine destined for distillation, as grape concentrate, or in the production of sweet versions of Marsala. However, when grown in optimal conditions and used to produce a varietal or blended wine, it can be quite interesting. Well-done Catarrato-based wines tend to show aromas and flavors of citrus (lemon, tangerine, grapefruit), red apples, fresh herbs, almonds,  and a distinct minerality. Such wines tend to be somewhat full-bodied and rich in floral aromas, often leading to a comparison with varietal wines produced from Viognier.

Photo via: www.donnafugata.it

Photo via: www.donnafugata.it

One of the most widely-distributed Catarrato/Lucido-based wines I have found is Donnafugata Anthìlia Sicilia DOC. According to the winery website, “The 2018 vintage is characterized by a fresh and fragrant bouquet with fruity and floral notes. A very versatile wine, ideal with fish and vegetarian first and second courses.”

While Catarrato/Lucido is often used to produce a single-variety wine, it is also an excellent blending partner with other international and native Sicilian grapes. Typical blending partners for Catarrato/Lucido include Chardonnay, Grillo, Inzolia, Viogner, and Fiano.

In addition to the Sicilia DOC, the Catarrato grape  is approved for use in the wines of many of the DOCs of Sicily, including the Alcama DOC, Etna DOC, Salaparuta DOC, and the Marsala DOC (among others). At this point, it is unclear whether or not the “Lucido” synonym will be used (or allowed to be used) outside of the Sicilia DOC.

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Post authored by Jane A. Nickles, your blog administrator…