Conference Preview—The Wines of Uruguay: Tannat and Beyond

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Today we have a preview of a session to be presented by Dr. Lucia Volk as part of  SWE’s 43rdAnnual Conference, to be held on August 14th through 16th in Washington, DC. Lucia is one of SWE’s most experienced and beloved online presenters, as well as a full-time teaching professor! Read on as Lucia tells us about her upcoming session… 

If you have been reading wine journals and blogs lately you may have noticed that everybody is talking about Uruguay.  The second smallest Latin American country, sandwiched between the two giants Argentina and Brazil, Uruguay has made enormous strides in the past two decades, producing internationally competitive, fresh and delicious wines, both as blends and single variety wines.

Lighthouse near Punta del Este, Uruguay

Lighthouse near Punta del Este, Uruguay

Uruguay has caused a stir in the premium wine segment with its signature grape, Tannat, vinified in a dizzying array of styles.  It is also stepping forward with crisp, aromatic whites—from Albariño to Viognier, Marsanne, Sauvignon Blanc, and more.  The vast majority of wineries are family-owned, looking back on multiple generations of talent and tradition. If you are lucky and can visit the properties in person, you will find each winemaker ready to tell you their story.  Each has their own passion and drive, and as a result, each Uruguayan wine has a unique personality.

Uruguay is a stunning country. Not only is the air clean and the water pure, 95% of its energy comes from renewable sources. The beef Uruguay produces and exports to the rest of the world is pasture-raised, hormone-free, and traceable by chip to the piece of land on which it grazed. Uruguay has some of the best BBQ in the world.

The national drink is mate tea, which requires that everyone carries around with them a mug with mate leaves and a thermos with hot water to keep refilling the mug. Uruguayans drink mate all day, ideally in good company.  Some speculate that there is a link between the bitter tea leaves and the tannic wines Uruguayans imbibe.

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Tannat is one of the most tannic grape varieties we know, which has some proclaim that Tannat is the healthiest wine you can drink!

There is no other wine that delivers more anti-oxidants per ounce, thanks to an incredibly thick skin and extra pips inside each grape. Tannat’s original home is in the Pyrenees and Southwest France, where French vignerons produced very tight, grippy, structured wines of bracing acidity.  The bottles required extended aging before they could be enjoyed.

With new wine-making technologies—such as shorter maceration at cooler temperatures or fermentation without skins—modern Tannats have a softer feel and taste to them.

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Not everyone approves of the innovations: Uruguayan winemaker Daniel Pisano recently said in an interview that Tannat has the strength and personality of a thoroughbred, and “If you don’t like the nerve of that kind of horse, buy yourself a pony.”

The Wines of Uruguay seminar will give you an excellent opportunity to see what kind of horse you like.  We will taste single variety Tannat as well as Tannat blends.  And we will go beyond Tannat to showcase some other wines you might want to pour at your next dinner. Lucia Volk, PhD and CWE, was able to travel to Uruguay and meet many of the winemakers whose wines we will be tasting. She reported about her trip in this blog post a year ago.  You do not want to miss this first-ever SWE Conference seminar about Uruguay!

Lucia’s session—The Wines of Uruguay: Tannat and Beyond—will be presented on Wednesday, August 14 2019, as part of as part of the Society of Wine Educators’ 43rd Annual Conference, to be held in Washington DC.

Are you a conference speaker that would like to provide a preview of your session? Contact Jane A. Nickles at jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

 

Congratulations on your Promotion: Tullum DOCG!

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As of June 18, 2019, the Italian Ministry of Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policies (Ministero delle Politiche Agricole, Alimentari e Forestali or MiPAAF) has registered the promotion of Tullum (also known as Terre Tollesi) to be Italy’s 75th DOCG for wine. (Tullum was formerly—since 2008—a DOC.)

Located in Italy’s Abruzzo Region (and centered around the town of Tollo), the Tullum DOCG is just a few miles inland from taly’s Adriatic coastline (within the Cheiti Province). Tullum is the second DOCG in Abruzzo—the first was the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane DOCG, promoted from a former sub-region of the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC in 2003.

According to the Disciplinare (rules and regulations), the Tullum DOCG will produce red, white, and sparkling wines. The standards include the following:

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    Rosso: Minimum 95% Montepulciano grapes, up to 5% other red grapes approved for use in Abruzzo, minimum 13% abv, may be released as early as January 1 of the second year following harvest

  • Rosso Riserva: Minimum 95% Montepulciano grapes, up to 5% other red grapes approved for use in Abruzzo, minimum 13.5% abv, must be aged for a minimum of two years (beginning on January 1 of the year following harvest) to include at least six months in wood
  • Pecorino: Minimum 90% Pecorino, up to 10% other white grapes approved for use in Abruzzo, minimum 13% abv, may be released as early as January 1 of the year following harvest
  • Passerina: Minimum 90% Passerina, up to 10% other white grapes approved for use in Abruzzo, minimum 12.5% abv, may be released as early as January 1 of the year following harvest
  • Spumante: Minimum 60% Chardonnay; the remainder is allowed to be other non-aromatic grapes approved for use in Abruzzo, minimum 12% abv, may be produced in a range of sweetness styles from brut nature to dolce

Welcome to the world, Tullum DOCG! The registration for the Tullum DOCG will need to wind its way through the EU approval process, but with the blessing of the MiPAAF, the designation will be allowed for use on wine labels as of the 2019 vintage (along with some “eligible stock” from previous vintages). We’ll post more information as it becomes available.

Note: As of the latest count, Italy has 75 DOCGs and over 330 DOCs for wine. More are sure to follow!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles, your blog administrator…

Conference Preview: Meunier: The Black Sheep of Champagne

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Today we have a conference preview from Alan Tardi. In this post, Alan tells us about his upcoming session entitled “Meunier: The Black Sheep of Champagne.” Alan’s session is offered as part SWE’s 43rd Annual Conference, to be held August 14 – 16 in Washington DC.

Meunier Steps Into the Spotlight

It happens with grapevines much as it happens with people: a handful of well-known celebrities attract all the attention and steal the show wherever they go while many others languish in the shadows. There is usually a good explanation for this: Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are rock stars; everyone loves them, and they have a propensity to make superlative wines most everywhere grapevines are grown. More power to them (as if they needed it)!

Photo via http://champagnemoussefils.com/en/

Photo via http://champagnemoussefils.com/en/

But sometimes the quirky, less effusive, less generic, less esteemed, sadly overlooked varieties actually have something genuinely worthwhile and thoroughly unique to bring to the table. And getting to know them can be quite enjoyable.

The very large category of overlooked grapes can be divided into two basic groups: truly obscure varieties of uncertain parentage that play a minor—though, some would say, still significant—role even in their primary areas of origin (Petit Meslier and Arbanne in Champagne, for example), and those that are well-established members of their vinous communities and play a notable role in their region’s wine production, but are nevertheless marginalized and treated as second-class citizens.

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Malbec, a historically important but largely anonymous player in Bordeaux and Cahors, was a good example of this subgroup before it gained international prestige as the red grape of Argentina. And Meunier is another.

Pinot Meunier is, as its name suggests, an offspring mutation of Pinot Noir, as is Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc, which are also approved varieties in Champagne. But unlike the other members of this well-endowed, genetically close-knit but extremely mutable family, Pinot Meunier has not expanded very far outside its area of origin, much less achieved anything close to the star-status of its close relatives.

Though this might be looked upon as a flaw from a commercial standpoint or a major shortcoming for one with international superstar aspirations, it does suggest a special and extremely close affinity with the winegrowing region of Champagne.

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It is difficult to determine exactly why, how, when, or where a grape mutation takes place, but it seems likely that the “floury” mutation of Pinot took place on Champagne soil, specifically in the Vallée de la Marne. If true, this would make Meunier the true native son of Champagne (or rather native daughter, since in French the vine is feminine).

Long overshadowed by and openly derided as inferior to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier—or simply Meunier, as the Champenois prefer to call it—has played an important, perhaps even critical, role in Champagne for nearly four centuries. Today it occupies a full third of plantings in the region, and in the 1950s made up nearly 50%!

The Meunier vine buds later and ripens earlier than the other two, making is less prone to devastating frosts which have long been the scourge of this extreme northern growing area, and it is also more resistant to harmful maladies like powdery mildew, downy mildew, coulure and millerandage. To put it bluntly, Meunier has saved Champagne producers’ butts over and over again.

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Up until fairly recently, the vast majority of champagne was a harmonious blend of grape varieties and here too, Meunier played an essential but largely unacknowledged role part by contributing fleshy body, fresh ripe fruit, and a pleasant down-to-earthiness to complement Pinot Noir’s firm structure and Chardonnay’s finesse and dazzle. But Meunier can also stand all on its own and, if taken seriously and given the chance, demonstrate facets of Champagne that the others simply can’t.

All this means nothing more (or less) than the fact that the Meunier grape can provide a different, deeper insight into one of the most illustrious wines and winegrowing regions of the world. But how can you get to know what it might offer, whether on its own or in a classic cuvée blend, if you can’t taste it?

Thanks to a small group of winegrowers who have long nurtured the Meunier vine and believed in its potential notwithstanding its second-class status, and a growing number of consumers who are open to and looking for something a bit different, Meunier is finally getting its turn in the spotlight. And here is the chance to get to know it for yourself.

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My session, Meunier: The Black Sheep of Champagne will be offered at the Society of Wine Educators 43rd annual conference on August 15, and will include the extraordinary opportunity of tasting nine 100% Meunier wines of Champagne side by side, from four different producers and terroirs in a variety of styles and typologies: red, white and rosé; still (Coteaux Champenois) and sparkling; single-vineyard, perpetual reserve and fortified (ratafia).

This experience will give participants a better understanding of a long underrated grape variety and an entirely different perspective on a wine and a wine-growing region we hold so dearly—Champagne.

A very special thanks to the wineries, and their US importer-distributors, whose generous collaboration has made this presentation possible:

About the speaker: Alan Tardi, former NYC chef and restaurateur, has long worked as a freelance journalist authoring articles about wine and food for numerous publications including The New York Times, Wine & Spirits Magazine, The Wine Spectator, Decanter, Sommelier Journal, and Food Arts. His new book, “Champagne, Uncorked: The House of Krug and the Timeless Allure of the World’s Most Celebrated Drink” (Hachette/PublicAffairs 2016) recently won a Gourmand Best in the World Award in the French Wine category.

Alan’s session, “Meunier: The Black Sheep of Champagne ” will be held on Thursday, August 15 at 8:45 am as part of the Society of Wine Educator’s 43rd Annual Conference, to be held in Washington DC.

Are you a conference speaker that would like to share a preview of your session? Contact Jane A. Nickles at jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Conference Preview 2019: Laissez Les Bons Temps Rouler! From Cane to Glass to Table

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Today we have a preview of a session to be presented at SWE’s 43rd Annual Conference, to be held on August 14th through 16th in Washington, DC. Read on as Chef Yvette Bonanno Tharp and Ms. Pam Kindel Connors tell us about their upcoming session…

Join us at our upcoming conference session “Laissez Les Bons Temps Rouler!  From Cane to Glass to Table”.  We look forward to taking you on an exciting journey through the only single estate award winning rum distillery in the United States, Cane Land Distilling’s Three Roll Estate.

The idea was sparked when Yvette and her husband attended a wedding in Guatemala for the daughter of Ron Zacapa Rum.  The Zacapa’s were intrigued as to why they were not producing rum as the Tharp family of Louisiana owns the 3rd largest sugar mill producer in the country, “Alma Sugar Plantation”.  Since 1859, the family stems from a long line of sugar cane farmers and Alma is 1 of only 11 sugar mills in south Louisiana today that has remained in production.  You will learn a little history on south Louisiana’s unique climate and terroir which has led them to be so successful in the sugar industry, producing the highest quality sugar that goes into making exceptional rum!

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Chef Yvette and Pam are going to delight your palate with a tasting of the Master Distillers unique line up of “Three Roll Estate” rums.   There we will reveal the secret ingredient within the production process which makes the rum so special and how the name “Three Roll” came about.  Then put your mixology skills into play with some of the distilleries famous rum cocktail recipes while sampling these creations and of course discussing fun food pairing ideas.  Since Cane Land Distilling opened 2 years ago in March of 2017, the rums have received much press and numerous awards.  Among them include the 2018 Rum Renaissance Festival XP Gold Award for both their Rum Agricole and their White Rum.  Cane Lands Red Stick Rum also earned the 2018 Double Gold Award at the San Diego Spirits Festival International Spirits Competition while their cachaca-inspired Brazilian-style Rum took home the Bronze.

Not long after the distillery opened, Yvette put her culinary expertise to work on creating ancillary food products to include her now famous Praline Rum Cakes and Spiced Rum Pecans utilizing their signature rums.  As Louisiana is also known for their “Bergeron Pecans” it was only natural to partner up with them and they are conveniently located not far from the Alma sugar plantation where the distillery also sources all of its sugar, molasses and cane juice.  It is important to Yvette to support local farmers and the economy.  Thus, everything about Cane Land Distilling and their food products is all about Louisiana making them certified “Louisiana Farm to Table.”

In the festive style of which Louisiana is known, do not be surprised if we should also partake in some good old-fashioned Cajun music during this spirited session.  Come join us for a true “Cane to Glass to Table” experience and Laissez Les Bons Temps Rouler!

About the session: Chef Yvette Bonanno Tharp and Ms. Pam Kindel Connors will present “Laissez Les Bons Temps Rouler—From Cane to Glass to Table” on Friday, August 16 (2019) as part of the Society of Wine Educators’ 43rd Annual Conference, to be held in Washington DC.

Are you a conference speaker that would like to provide a preview of your session? Contact Jane A. Nickles at jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Conference Preview: New & Pending in California Wine

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Today we have a conference preview from David Glancy, MS, CWE, FWS, CSS. In this post, David tells us about his upcoming session—entitled “New and Pending California AVAs and Trends”—covering the latest news (and there is a lot) of the wines of California. David’s session will be offered as part SWE’s 43rd Annual Conference, to be held August 14 – 16 in Washington DC.

California wine is easy, the grape’s on the label, right? Wrong! The only constant is change and California wine country is more diverse and complex than most realize. Many of you studying for CWE, WSET, MS, MW and WSG programs spend far more time dissecting the minutiae of European wine regions than those in your own backyard.

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The basics of AOs versus AVAs is lost on many people and in fact I almost never hear anyone discussing AOs. I have heard very advanced wine industry people talking about counties that are AVAs. Well, there are none, they are separate things. A county, state or country can be an Appellation of Origin and an American Viticultural Area is a more specific type of AO with more strict labeling requirements. Some confusion has been created by the approval of the Mendocino AVA inside Mendocino County, Monterey AVA in Monterey County and San Benito AVA in San Benito County. But to be clear, these AVAs are all significantly smaller than the county lines (the AOs).

There have been a tremendous number of new AVAs approved in recent years. California has 139 AVAs and 26 of them were approved 2011-2018, a 23 percent increase. 5 regions have also mandated Conjunctive Labeling. Are all of these AVAs meaningful? What are the climates, soils, predominant grapes and most important wineries? Chances are most people have not seen a label with the AVA names Los Olivos District or Petaluma Gap on it.

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Is this AVA expansion slowing down? I don’t think so. There are also 9 pending AVAs in California alone. Who knows how many are being discussed but not yet submitted to the Tax & Trade Bureau? West Sonoma Coast is expected to be finalized any day, while San Luis Obispo Coast is in the back of the line. It will be interesting to conjecture about where the next AVAs might or should be.

At least AVAs are much simpler to understand than AOCs, DOCGs, DOs, DACs, etc.. Well, there are now a few California regions with Old World style rules with trademarked label terms that include strict regulations. We will discuss and taste selections from Coro Mendocino, Lodi Native and the Ballard Canyon Estate Syrah bottle mold.

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The launch of the CSWA Sustainable Wine logo is also new. We will see and taste an example of this, also. Well, we won’t actually taste the label. There are also perhaps a dozen new grape varieties in the ground over the last 20 years. This CA update will cover those and discuss where these and other new grapes are best suited. Climate change has to be part of the agenda and if there are any grapes that will likely decline. There have also been excise tax changes that might end up impacting labeling laws. Competition has also changed with commercial wineries in all 50 United States and a handful of them expanding at a faster rate than California. China has had a meteoric rise in its acreage and production and Trade wars have also impacted California’s foreign markets. This conference session is only 75 minutes long so register for conference, sign up for my session, and buckle up for a ride through what’s new and pending in California wine!

About the speaker: David Glancy, MS, CWE, FWS, CSS founded the San Francisco Wine School in 2011 to create the ideal educational setting from the ground up. He is one of only twelve people in the world to hold both the revered Master Sommelier diploma and Certified Wine Educator credential. A certified French Wine Scholar, Italian Wine Professional, and Certified Specialist of Spirits, Glancy has earned the credential for every program he teaches, and more. In 2012 he created the California Wine Appellation Specialist program and credential to fill a glaring void in the educational market. David’s session, “New and Pending California AVAs and Trends ” will be held on Friday, August 16 at 1:15 pm as part of the Society of Wine Educator’s 43rd Annual Conference, to be held in Washington DC.

Are you a conference speaker that would like to share a preview of your session? Contact Jane A. Nickles at jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

 

Conference Preview: South Africa—Wine from before America’s Birth

Autumn in Franschhoek— Photo Credit: Eddie Wilson/WOSA

Autumn in Franschhoek— Photo Credit: Eddie Wilson/WOSA

Today we have a conference preview from Jim Clarke, Marketing Manager with Wines of South Africa (WOSA). In this post, Jim tells us about his upcoming session on the history of South African wine production, entitled “South Africa: Wine from before America’s Birth.” Jim’s session is offered as part SWE’s 43rd Annual Conference, to be held August 14 – 16 in Washington DC.

One reductive—but nonetheless useful—cliché about South African wine is that it is “a little bit Old World, a little bit New.” This reflects two realities. One is that in character, as much as one can still speak of Old World and New World traits in wine, South Africa’s wines often fall somewhere in between. A typical South African Sauvignon Blanc, for example, would not be likely to mistaken for a Marlborough sample of the same variety, nor would one think it was a Sancerre; instead, its character would have aspects of both. The other reality reflected in this commonplace is South Africa’s lengthy history with growing winegrapes. The nation celebrated its 360th vintage this year.

In fact, by the time our own country was struggling for its independence, South African wines were being celebrated in the courts of Europe, or at least one of them—Constantia—was. It owes its existence to Simon van der Stel, the son of a Dutch East India Company official and an Indian woman whose mother had been a slave. Van der Stel would follow in his father’s footsteps as a Company administrator. In 1679 the Company made him the tenth commander of the Cape Colony, and later promoted him to the newly created position of governor.

Groot Constantia Old Cellar—Photo Credit: Groot Constantia/WOSA

Groot Constantia Old Cellar—Photo Credit: Groot Constantia/WOSA

In 1685 the Commissioner of the Company, Hendrik Adriaan Van Rheede, visited the Cape. Impressed by Van der Stel’s work, he granted the Commander title to a piece of land; typically this was forbidden, to prevent conflicts between the Commander’s own interests and those of the Company. Van der Stel named the 763 hectare estate Constantia, apparently after the Commissioner’s daughter; a savvy “thank you” for a large and well-situated piece of property.

Van der Stel planted approximately 100,000 vines on the property. His interest in wine was not new; he had owned two vineyards in Holland, and he apparently brought cuttings with him from Europe when he took his post. Upon his arrival, he had been unimpressed with the wines he found at the Cape. While the Colony had been making wine for twenty years and vineyard plantings had expanded, there were few people with any real winemaking experience. Van der Stel cited unripe grapes and unsanitary barrels as the main offenders to wine quality in the Cape, and imposed fines on those who harvested too early or used inadequate vessels. He applied these sensibilities to his own property, and his wines were well-regarded. In 1699 he retired to live at Constantia full-time, and passed away there in 1712.

Groot Constantia vineyards looking over Cape Town—Photo Credit: Groot Constantia/WOSA/Graeme Robinson

Groot Constantia vineyards looking over Cape Town—Photo Credit: Groot Constantia/WOSA/Graeme Robinson

The Constantia estate was sold at auction upon his death, and broken into three parts. A gentleman named Johannes Colijn eventually took ownership of Klein Constantia (a different portion of the original than today’s Klein Constantia, actually) and established an export market. By the 1730s he was finding it difficult to meet demand; fortunately, the larger Groot Constantia property was available for purchase, and he arranged for his brother-in-law to do so. For the next several decades the properties would operate more-or-less as one. By the 1740s Constantia’s sweet wines, made from red and white Muscat, were valuable enough for counterfeits were becoming a problem.

Constantia survives today as a region, but several estates include portion of the original property: Groot Constantia, Klein Constantia, Buitenverwachting, and Constantia Uitsig. Other vineyards around the base of Table Mountain, closer to Table Bay, have not survived. For the most part they have been swallowed up by Cape Town’s suburbs, one of which, Wynberg, or “Wine Mountain” at least acknowledges that history. The Company Gardens, where grapes were first planted in 1655, are a public park.  A girl’s school and the University of Cape Town occupy the grounds where Rustenberg, as the second Company farm was called, and Bosheuvel, made wine. But many properties further inland have survived.

Estates further from the city in Stellenbosch and Franschhoek still thrive. One of the oldest estates actually shares the Rustenberg name. On the slopes of Simonsberg Mountain in Stellenbosch (both maned for Simon Van Der Stel), the property has been home to vineyards since 1682. On the far side of the Simonsberg, Jean Le Long, a French Huguenot, founded Boschendal in 1685, and began growing grapes there six years later. Le Long predates the arrival of 200 French Huguenots that began in 1688 – refugees fleeing persecution after Louis the XVI revoked the Edict of Nantes.

Rust en Vrede Cape Dutch Building—Photo Credit: Charmaine Greiger/WOSA

Rust en Vrede Cape Dutch Building—Photo Credit: Charmaine Greiger/WOSA

These Huguenots provided an influx of winemaking talent. The extent of their influence may be exaggerated—not all were from the wine-growing regions of France—but at least a few seem to have succeeded and even surpassed their Dutch-descent neighbors in winegrowing. Bellingham (originally “Bellinchamp” or “pretty fields”), La Motte, and several other farms are rooted in this immigration. The Dutch had their own successes at the end of the 17th century; Vergelegen and Rust En Vrede owe their starts to Simon Van Der Stel’s son, Willem Adriaan, though he eventually left the Cape under a cloud. Greedier than his father, he fell prey to the conflict between personal enrichment and the good of the Colony, the very conflict his father had avoided.

Each of these classic properties has their own story, contributing to the history of South African wine as a whole. Meerlust, Vergelegen’s neighbor, dates to 1693, but what we remember now is the 1980 creation of Rubicon, the Bordeaux blend that helped crack a preference for varietal wines and showed these sorts of blends could be among South Africa’s best. Bellingham created South Africa’s first varietal Shiraz, well before it became the Cape’s second most-planted red variety and the dominant variety of cutting edge regions like the Swartland. Rustenberg’s red blend was a gold standard for much of the twentieth century; today, young winemakers are embracing its unusual blend, Cinsault and Cabernet Sauvignon, with renewed interest. With all the interest South Africa’s “young gun” producers are generating today, few of with them would deny they’re part of a long history of intrepid winemakers.

Jim’s session, “South Africa: Wine from before America’s Birth” will be held on Wednesday, August 14 at 1:00 pm as part of the Society of Wine Educator’s 43rd Annual Conference, to be held in Washington DC.

Are you a conference speaker that would like to share a preview of your session? Contact Jane A. Nickles at jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

 

 

Conference Preview: Noble Nebbiolo

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Today we have a conference preview from Alan Tardi. In this post, Alan tells us about his upcoming session on Nebbiolo-based wines entitled “Noble Nebbiolo.” He even gives us a sneak peak at the amazing wines that will be served. Alan’s session is offered as part SWE’s 43rd Annual Conference, to be held August 14 –  16 in Washington DC.

In Vino Nobils?

While it is often challenging to articulate wine in words, the term ‘noble’ is a particularly loaded one, partly because it is used in so many different contexts.

To begin with, there are categoric uses of the word. “Noble Grapes” refers to a group of varieties that have achieved prominence throughout the world, but membership in this elite group is somewhat subjective, ranging from six—Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Merlot—to 18 or more. What’s more, it is unclear who first created this group or why the most popular, most adaptable, most widely dispersed, commercially viable and therefore most common grape varieties of all should qualify them as noble.

In Alsace, noble status has been officially conferred on four specific varieties: Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris and Muscat. Only these grapes can be used for Grand Cru or Sélections de Grains Nobles categories, while a wine labeled Gentil must be made up of at least 50% of them.

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There are also literal associations. The phrase “King of wines and wine of Kings” has been applied to a number of wines throughout history (Barolo and Champagne, for example) both because members of the nobility took a particular liking to them and because they were produced on estates belonging to members of the noble class. At the end of his dithyrambic poem “Bacco in Toscana” published in 1685, author Francesco Rambi declares “Montepulciano is the King of all wines!” after which it became known as Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. And Louis the XV, King of France, is said to have offered his official chief mistress Madame Pompadour a glass of Tokaji calling it “Vinum Regum, Rex Vinorum” (Wine of Kings and King of Wines).

Finally, the term is often used in a descriptive sense. Wine writers and tasters sometimes use noble as an adjective to describe the character of a grape variety or a wine made from it, as I am doing by calling my session at the 43rd annual conference of the Society of Wine Educators “Noble Nebbiolo.”

But what does it actually mean? Or, to put it another way, what are the characteristics of a grape variety or the wine made from it that could justifiably be described as noble?

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Before going any further, let me clarify that my session will focus on one grape variety, Nebbiolo, and feature wines in a range of typologies from the principal appellations and diverse terroirs of the three regions of northern Italy—Piemonte, Lombardia and Valle d’Aosta—that constitute its traditional home.

Just as noble people, actions or sentiments are not all the same, it is perfectly reasonable to expect that a given grape variety would express its inherent noble qualities in different ways, and that even members of the same clan or dynasty (or grape variety, in this case) would over time develop different characteristics based on the location of their domain.

So, what basic “noble” characteristics can be attributed to the Nebbiolo grapevine itself? It is a late-ripening grape which means that it often reaches maturity in mid- to late fall, long after most others have been harvested, when the days get short, the nights get cold and fog (‘nebbia’ in Italian) covers the vineyards, all of which one might say contributes austerity, restraint and a haughty aloofness to its regal character. Winegrowers must often wait with patient deference for the grapes to ripen and for a slow fermentation to run its course, and consumers must often wait for Nebbiolo-based wines to open up and show what they really have to offer.

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Nebbiolo-based wines generally have pronounced natural tannin, notable acidity, a pale transparent color, and a surprising capacity to age and develop over time, acquiring layers of complexity as it matures.

Sometimes (as participants will see during the class) grapes from young vines or less favorable sites can be harvested a bit early to retain their crisp acidity and tart fruit and be made into a rosato or sparkling wine. In such cases the ‘noble’ lineage of the grape takes the shape of a frolicking prince or princess. But the most noble expressions of Nebbiolo tend to come from older vines harvested at peak maturity in exceptional vineyard sites with low yields, slow long fermentation and extended aging.

Finally, and contrary to membership requirements of the Noble Grapes Club, Nebbiolo is extremely selective about where it will sink its roots and reign. With the exception of some sporadic New World experiments and one isolated southern outpost, Nebbiolo grows only in specific areas of northern Italy. And this high degree of selectivity about where it will (and will not) grow seems to suggest a sort of noble birthright. But wherever it does grow, Nebbiolo demonstrates an astounding ability to express nuances of the particular environment and a particular growing season, and then transfer these factors into the wines it produces, which most always occupies top billing on the roster of wines in that area. In this sense, Nebbiolo wines are truly a noble representative of the place that they come from.

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Of course, when it comes to wine, we can talk about it all we like, but the best spokesperson for a grape variety are the wines that are made from it. In order to ‘hear’ what they have to say you need to taste them. And that is precisely what we will do in this “Noble Nebbiolo” session.

We have a stellar lineup of 100% Nebbiolo wines in a variety of typologies (traditional method sparkling, rosato, appassimento) from all of the principal growing areas and appellations including Lombardia (Valtellina), Valle d’Aosta (Donnas), Alto Piemonte (Ghemme, Gattinara, Carema), Langhe (Barolo) and Roero.

While exploring these extremely diverse expressions of Nebbiolo based on growing area, vintage and winemaking practice, we will also look for common threads—for the fundamental inherent character of the grapevine—that run between them. And at the end we may even try to determine whether, in fact, the descriptor “noble” is an appropriate one.

You can’t have a wine tasting without wines, so here’s a big shout out of gratitude to the great producers and importers that made these exceptional examples of Nebbiolo available for my presentation at the Society of Wine Educators conference 2019:

Wineries:

Importers:

Alan’s session, “Noble Nebbiolo” will be held on Friday, August 16 at 1:15 pm as part of the Society of Wine Educator’s 43rd Annual Conference, to be held in Washington DC.

Are you a conference speaker that would like to share a preview of your session? Contact Jane A. Nickles at jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

News from Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine: Four New Sub-zones Approved

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On Wednesday, June 19, 2019 France’s Institut National de l’origine et de la Qualité (INAO) approved a revision of the Cahier des Charges of the Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine AOC and in doing so, approved four new sub-zones for the appellation. These geographical indications are sometimes referred to as Crus, or Crus Communaux (cru communal zones).

This new announcement means that the appellation now contains seven sub-zones including Clisson, Gorges, and Le Pallet (approved in 2011). These seven sub-zones represent the highest-quality wines (and very limited production) from the large and Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine appellation.

The Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine AOC is located in the Pays Nantais area of France’s Loire Valley, and is known for still (non-sparkling) white wines produced using 100% Melon de Bourgogne grapes. Much of the production is produced in the sur lie style, requiring that the wine be aged on the lees (expired yeast cells) until at least March 1 of the year following the harvest. (A sub-zone designation typically requires longer minimum sure lie aging times as well as other specific standards required for qualification.)

Map of Muscadet via: https://www.vinsvaldeloire.fr/en

Map of Muscadet via: https://www.vinsvaldeloire.fr/en

The new sub-zones are as follows:

Goulaine: Goulaine is the northernmost as well as the largest of the seven crus of Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine AOC. This area is dominated by a series of small hills overlooking the Marais de Goulaine (a swampy area known as the Marsh of Goulaine). Top soils are coarse and sandy; subsoils are mainly metamorphic (gneiss and schist). Vines in the Goulaine sub-zone tend to have early bud break and are often the first vines in the area to be ready for harvest.

Château-Thébaud: The Château-Thébaud sub-zone is located in the southwest portion of the Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine AOC, just to the north of Clisson. The area consists mainly of hills and hillsides, some of them steep and wooded. Many of the finest vineyard sites are located near the Maine River as it flows through this area in a north/northwest direction. Soils are mainly sandy/stony atop granite and gneiss.

Detail of the map of Muscadet via: https://www.vinsvaldeloire.fr/en

Detail of the map of Muscadet via: https://www.vinsvaldeloire.fr/en

Monnières-Saint-Fiacre: The Monnières-Saint-Fiacre cru—also located just to the north of the Clisson subzone—lies just to the east of Château-Thébaud. The vineyards are planted on a succession of hillsides spread over eastern bank of the River Sèvre, extending into the surrounding valleys and woods. The soils consist primarily of sandy loam over a subsoil of gneiss and some clay.

Mouzillon-Tillières: Mouzillon-Tillières is located to the north of the River Sèvre, to the north/northeast of the Gorges sub-zone. It is centered around the Sanguèze River (a 44km-/27 mile-long tributary of the Loire).  The vines are planted on a series of small hillsides and outcrops along both the sides of the river. The soils are mainly composed of sand and clay over gabbro bedrock (gabbro is an igneous rock created by the slow, underground cooling of magma).

Keep those flashcards handy: According to the website of Loire Valley Wines (Vins de Val de Loire), three more areas— La Haye-Fouassière and Vallet (in Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine), as well as Champtoceaux (located within the Muscadet Coteaux de la Loire AOC)—are being considered for sub-zone status.

Please note that while you will be able to see these subzones on wine labels beginning with the 2018 harvest, the new-and-improved Cahier des Charges for the Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine AOC (as linked below) will still need to wind its way through the EU registration process.

Click here for more information on Muscadet (note the details on the Clisson, Gorges, and Le Pallet sub-zones near the bottom of the page).

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

References/for more information:

Modern Vodka for Canada: Canada Updates its 60-year-old Vodka Standards

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Effective today (June 26, 2019), the government of Canada has updated its labeling laws for vodka. This is the first change in the country’s laws regarding vodka since 1959. The change was announced via publication in the Canada Gazette, Part II, Volume 153, Number 13.

These new laws—as set forth in the Food and Drug Regulations of Canada—include the following standards:

  • Canadian vodka may be produced from cereal grains, potatoes, or other agricultural products such as fruit, dairy products, or honey
  • If produced from a base ingredient other than potatoes or grains, it must be stated on the label using terminology such as “vodka produced from grapes” or a phrase such as “produced from apples” in close proximity to the term “Vodka” on the label
  • Canadian vodka should be rendered neutral (without distinctive character, aroma, or taste) during its production process, which may include (but does not require) charcoal filtration.

These new standards are an update of the previous laws, which permitted Canadian Vodka to be produced using potatoes or cereal grains only, and required that all Canadian vodka undergo charcoal-filtration.

It is expected that these new laws will encourage innovation in the Canadian distilling industry while facilitating international trade.

Sounds like today is a great day to taste-test some Canadian vodka! May I recommend Crystal Head Vodka (Dan Aykroyd will thank you), Iceberg Vodka, or perhaps a dry martini made with Polar Ice?

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

References/for more information:

 

Castilla-La Mancha (and Spanish Wine) has a Very Good Day: Three New Vinos de Pago approved!

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The estate wines of Spain hare having a good week! Last Wednesday (June 12, 2019) the EU approved three new Vinos de Pago as protected designation of origin/PDO wines of Spain.

All three of these newly-registered Pagos are located in the comunidad autónoma of Castilla-La Mancha—making a total of 11 Pagos (out of Spain’s new current total of 18) located within the region. According to the fresh-off-the-presses documentation, the details concerning these PDOs include the following:

Vino de Pago Vallegarcía

  • Location: Specified parcels in the municipality of Retuerta del Bullaque (Ciudad Real); located within the VdlT Castilla; the area is close to and influenced by the Bullaque River; soils of the region are known for high acidity/low pH
  • Allowed grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Viognier
  • Types/styles of wine:
    • Viognier: Both stainless steel and French oak barrels are used for fermentation; wine is lees aged for a minimum of 6 months
    • Red˜single-variety and blends: Both stainless steel and French oak barrels are used for fermentation; maceration lasts for 7 to 28 days; oak and barrel aging are utilized but minimum aging time is not specified
  • Other notes: The use of pre-fermentation maceration (cold soak) is common; must and wines are gravity-fed through much of the production process; both red and white wines are known for their herbal aromas (described in the white wines as white flowers, lavender, and rosemary and in the red wines as Mediterranean scrub and lavender)
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Vino de Pago La Jaraba

  • Location: Specified parcels in the municipality of El Provencio (Cuenca); within the confines of the existing La Mancha DO; the area has almost no hills and sits at a consistent elevation of 700 meters (2,300 ft) above sea-level; vineyards are surrounded by oak and pine forests
  • Allowed grape varieties: Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Graciano
  • Types/styles of wine:
    • Red blend of Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Graciano; aged in oak barrels for at least 9 months followed by aging in the bottle for at least 9 months
    • Red blend of Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot; aged in oak barrels for at least 6 months followed by aging in the bottle for at least 6 months
    • Varietal Merlot (red): 100% Merlot, aged in oak barrels for at least 6 months followed by aging in the bottle for at least 6 months
  • Other Notes: Wine may be fermented in stainless or French oak; fermentation process is initiated via the “grapes’ own microbial flora”
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Vino de Pago Los Cerrillos

  • Location: Specified parcels in the municipality of Argamasilla de Alba (Ciudad Real); the area is locally referred to as the “Vega Alta” section of the Guadiana River
  • Allowed grape varieties: Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah
  • Types/styles of wine:
    • Varietal Tempranillo (red); 100% Tempranillo, aged in oak for at least 30 days
    • Varietal Syrah (red); 100% Syrah, aged in oak for at least 6 months
    • Red blend of Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon; aged in oak for at least 6 months
    • “Private Collection” red blend of Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon; aged in oak for at least 13 months
    • “Cabernet Sauvignon de Familia” (Family Reserve Cabernet); 100 % Cabernet Sauvignon; aged in oak for at least 24 months followed by at least 18 months of bottle aging
  • Other notes: Grapes are harvested between 5 o’clock and 11 o’clock in the morning; wine is fermented in stainless steel; délestage (rack-and-return) is used throughout the fermentation process; wine is not pressed but is clarified via racking

Welcome to the world, Vino de Pago Vallegarcía, Vino de Pago La Jaraba, and Vino de Pago Los Cerrillos!

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

References/for more information: