Bailey’s and Beyond: The Irish Cream PGI

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Everyone I know loves Bailey’s Irish Cream. In coffee, on the rocks, or in a fanciful cocktail such as the Mudslide, Girl Scout Cookie, or Nutty Irishman—it is just plain delicious.

Bailey’s Irish Cream was the first Irish cream liqueur on the market.  It was created in the early 1970’s by Gilbey’s of Ireland, a large distillery borne out of a gin distillery founded in 1857 by Sir Walter Gilbey.  The name “Bailey’s” was inspired by the name of a local restaurant owned by John Chesterman, who gave permission to use the name. The distillery—Gilbey’s of Ireland—eventually became a division of the even-larger International Distillers & Vintners, which eventually merged in with Diageo (the current producer of Bailey’s).

The Bailey’s brand of Irish cream liqueur may have been the first, and it may be the best-known, but it is certainly not the only Irish cream on the liquor store shelf—other brands include Carolan’s, Cremór, Kerrygold, Molly’s, and St. Brendan’s. Give one of these others a try, and you may find you fall in love with Irish cream liqueur all over again.

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As of 2015, Irish Cream is a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) and recognized as a unique product of Ireland. Irish Cream may be produced anywhere in Ireland (including the Republic of Ireland and the country of Northern Ireland), and may not be produced anywhere else.

Irish Cream is classified as a liqueur under the rules of the European Union, and as such must have a minimum alcohol by volume of 15% and a minimum of 100 g/L of sugar (approximately equivalent to 10%).  Irish cream liqueurs vary in terms of alcohol and sugar, but many are in the range of 17% to 20% alcohol by volume and 20% to 25% sugar.

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In addition to meeting the EU standards for liqueurs, the PGI for Irish Cream requires the following:

  • Irish Dairy Cream: Irish Cream liqueur must contain a minimum of 10% milk fat (which does not sound very appealing), all of which must be from cream produced from milk produced in Ireland. Ireland is known for the quality of its dairy products, and many top-bred Irish dairy cows create the “cream” in Irish cream.
  • Irish Whiskey: Irish cream is required to contain at least 1% by volume Irish whiskey. The remainder of the alcohol content may be from any type of alcohol of agricultural origin (and in most cases is likely to be neutral spirits).
  • Specific Production Techniques: Ireland claims to have created the technique of creating shelf-stable cream liqueurs. Two techniques are allowed for use in the production of Irish Cream. One technique—known as the single-stage method—involves mixing together the spirits, sugar, cream, flavorings and emulsifiers and sending the entire batch through a process of homogenization until the average particle size of the cream globule is reduced to less than 5 microns, preferably less than 2 microns. This will allow the liqueur to remain emulsified. The second method—known as the two-stage method—involves homogenizing the cream (to the same micron-size standard) first and then mixing it into the remainder of the ingredients (sprits, sugars, flavorings, and emulsifiers).
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There are few specifications as to the stabilizers, colorings, emulsifiers, and flavorings that may be used in Irish cream liqueur beyond those typical for food safety, additives, and advertising. While many flavors are produced—Strawberries-and-Cream! Pumpkin spice! Espresso! Salted Caramel! Chocolate-Cherry!—the original Bailey’s Irish Cream Liqueur is reported to be flavored with Irish whiskey, Irish Cream, and chocolate or cocoa. The formulas are typically considered closely guarded secrets, but other flavors may include a bit of honey, caramel, vanilla, almond, coffee, or cinnamon.

The production requirements and product analysis do not make the delicious and delectable Irish Cream liqueur sound very appealing, so we’ll end with a few tasting notes. For starters, here is the official tasting note for Bailey’s Irish Cream: “the perfect marriage of fresh, premium Irish dairy cream, the finest spirits, aged Irish whiskey, and a unique chocolate blend.”  Other often-used descriptions include velvety, creamy, smooth notes of toffee, burnished gold, and honeyed memories of the Emerald Isle. That’s more like it.

References/for more information:

 

 

Guest Blogger: Reasons to Drink Wines from Uruguay… on site, if you can!

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Today we have a post from guest blogger Lucia Volk, CWE. Lucia tells us about a recent trip to Uruguay, where she toured the wineries and tasted the local wine, which in this case happened to include some world-class Tannat! 

When I watch sports games, I tend to root for the underdog. Drinking wine, I feel drawn to bottles that are lesser known.  While I congratulate estates and regions that enjoy high sales volumes because everyone agrees they are great, I truly admire winemakers who toil knowing that their wines will not easily find a space on a wine list or store shelf, no matter how good and how genuine the bottles they produce.

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Uruguay remains an underdog in the South American wine world, despite the quantum leap forward in quality wine production in the Canelones and Maldonado regions over the past decades. You probably remember the last time you had an Argentinian Malbec or Chilean Cabernet, but when did you pour your last glass of Uruguayan Tannat?

I recently had the opportunity to travel to Uruguay, and I can tell you right off the bat that everything that the travel literature says about how friendly and welcoming the Uruguayans are is true.  Moreover, winemakers I met were philosophical, (com)passionate, perfectionist, with a hint of non-conformist and quirky thrown into the mix—not every day do you encounter a wild hog kept as a vineyard pet, as you do at Los Nadies in Santa Lucia, Uruguay.

Canelones, the main wine region outside the capital, features a mildly hilly terrain crisscrossed by rivers, and inhabited by colorful birds. Agriculture makes up a significant part of the country’s GDP.  If you have recently eaten top quality grass-fed steak, it may have been raised in Uruguay.

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Winemakers search for poorer soils in the windier, coastal areas to plant their vines. Blessed with abundant sunshine and nightly cooling breezes from the ocean, their grapes ripen slowly and maintain a refreshing acidity. In most years, rain is sufficient and occurs at the right time, allowing for dry farming. Recurring humidity requires the application of copper/sulfur sprays during the growing season, but pesticides or fertilizers are generally not needed. Contrary to Argentina and Chile, most wineries in Uruguay are small to moderately-sized and family-owned. Chile’s Concha y Toro produces more than all of Uruguay put together on the 11,000ha it owns.

So if you want a hand-crafted South American red, sustainably farmed, your best bet is a bottle from Uruguay. Their specialty is the robust, red Tannat grape, imported by Basque migrants at the end of the 20th century.  While the European version of Tannat tends to live up to its tannic name, requiring extended aging before it shows its full potential, Uruguay’s more moderate climate and modern cellar practices—cold soaking and cool maceration—yield a softer version of Tannat, one that can be enjoyed quite young.

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In a still, dry, single-varietal Tannat you can expect to find tannins and acidity, for sure, alongside plum and blackberry, plus secondary aromas of French and American oak.  It is the perfect complement to grass-fed Uruguayan beef, fresh off the grill. Single varietal Tannat is varied, as I learned at a comparison tasting at Deicas Winery in Juanico. While every bottle—Mar de Piedras, Valle de los Manatiales, and Domaine Castelar—had a peppery-spicy-smoky component, there were clear differences between grippier, earthier wines and more velvety, vanilla-and-plum versions. The 2013 flagship Massimo Deicas Tannat was densely layered with aromas and flavors, a wine that will make you a believer.

Tannat’s grippiness can be tamed.  Frequently, you find it blended with Merlot (Equilibrio, Los Nadies; Gran Guarda, Stagnari) and the less tannic [!!] Cabernet Sauvignon (Rio Colorado, de Lucca). Less frequently, it is blended with Syrah (de Lucca), Zinfandel (Artesana, the only Uruguayan Zin producer so far) or Viognier (Alto de la Ballena).  You can reduce the tannin load by fermenting Tannat entirely in stainless steel (Bouza, sin barrica). You can submit Tannat grapes to carbonic maceration and produce a berry basket of aromas easy on the palate (Don Prospero, Pizzorno). You can turn Tannat into a refreshing, bright red, raspberry rosé (Tannat Rosado, Artesana).  You can even produce an acid-driven base wine, add more sugar, and re-ferment, hand-riddling it into a deeply colored, dry sparkling wine (Brut Nature, Gabriel Pisano).

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You can also dry the grapes—think Recioto and Amarone—and fortify Tannat to produce a purple-colored, spicy chocolate, peppery blackberry sweet desert wine (EtXe Oneko, Gustavo & Gabriel Pisano). And of course you can distill Tannat into a version of grappa (Bernardi). The options are endless!  It was fun to witness the inter-generational discussions between Gabriel and his uncle Daniel Pisano, or Agostina and her father Reinaldo de Lucca about new ways to produce or market Uruguayan wines. Family wine-making means preserving traditions, yet also moving along with the times.

Tannat is not only tasty, it is also good for you!  Polyphenols, compounds found in the skins and seeds of grapes, are responsible for most of the wine’s aromas. Among polyphenols are procyanidins, which have been shown to inhibit cholesterol plaque in blood vessels. Tannat contains almost four times as many polyphenols as Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon.  Turns out that the tannin that gives the grape its name takes care of your heart!

Of course grapes other than Tannat grow in Uruguay, especially Bordeaux and Northern Rhone varietals. While most of Uruguay’s wine is red, whites are also produced.  I was able to try remarkable Riesling, Albariño, Viognier, Torrontés, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay.  A recently established winery that is generating significant international buzz is Garzón in the eastern Maldonado region.  Conceived and financed by Argentine billionaire Alejandro Bulgheroni in consultation with Alberto Antonini, Garzón covers nearly 10,000 acres and uses the most up-to-date vinification technologies. Garzón’s Tannat Reserva 2015 made the Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines of 2017, the first Uruguayan wine to be thus honored.

Reinaldo and Agostina De Lucca’s photograph on shelf in tasting room, next to a vineyard map and Che…

Reinaldo and Agostina De Lucca’s photograph on shelf in tasting room, next to a vineyard map and Che…

If you are eager to explore Uruguay, I recommend reading the Uruguay chapter in Evan Goldstein’s Wines of South America, and studying www.uruguaywinetours.com, which lists all the wineries that are open to visitors.  The website makes it easy to contact bodegas ahead of time and arrange a tour. One thing to keep in mind is that Uruguay enforces a “zero tolerance law” that forbids drinking-and-driving. The solution is to hire a car for the day, or take a cab or ride share to where you want to go. Most Canelones wineries are 20-40 min outside the capital. If you want to visit Maldonado wineries, plan to spend a night in the lovely beach town of Punta del Este.

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Beyond wine, Uruguay offers natural beauty. It has an amazing coastline and expansive interior. Montevideo features museums, galleries, and restaurants. Its rambla, nearly 14 miles of uninterrupted sidewalk along the Rio de la Plata, bustles with locals, who drink their mate tea or other beverage of choice, waiting for the sunset.  You can pick up a friendly game of basketball or soccer in parks along the rambla or chat with cheerful locals walking their dogs. And do not forget to stop by the Montevideo Wine Experience, the friendliest wine bar on earth, on your way out of town, to sample local wineries you did not have time to visit.

If Uruguay is a bit too far for you right now, ask your local store to stock Tannat or your favorite restaurant to include one on its wine list, if they don’t do it already. Uruguayan wines have grit and personality, and are made by people who love what they do. They stand proudly apart from the wines of their better known neighbors—underdogs, for the time being, among South American wines.

Lucia-150x150Photos and story by Lucia Volk, CWE. Lucia runs MindfulVine, a Wine Education business in the Bay Area that specializes in tailored, at-home tastings to promote a greater enjoyment of wine. She grew up in Germany, where her grandfather started a Riesling winery. She knows what it takes to work those steep slate slopes by hand, and decided to start promoting Riesling and other European wines after obtaining a PhD in Anthropology in the United States, and working briefly in wine sales.

She now gets to have the best of two worlds and teach about global politics and cultures, as well as the many wonderful wine regions across the world. She is also working–slowly–on a book about the lesser known German Anbaugebiete.

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Guest Blogger: Southwest Sojourn Part 3: Arizona Adventures

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Today we have a guest post—the third and final in a series—by an author we have all gotten to know by the nom de plume of Candi, CSW. Click here to read the first article in the series, as Candi takes us on a tour of the Grand Canyon, and click here for the second stage as she makes her way through New Mexico. Today, Candi takes us on the final leg of her southwest sojourn with a trip through Arizona—with plenty of local wine along the way!

It was time to leave Santa Fe with good memories and ideas for our next trip there. Such a great destination that we were glad we allowed four nights for exploration. On to the final stop: Scottsdale, Arizona.

We had our longest drive of the trip from Santa Fe to Scottsdale. But it was mostly interstate highways with minimal traffic. We took our time, allowed frequent rest and stretch breaks, and enjoyed the view as scenery transitioned from canyons and mesas to deeper red rocks and pure desert. I couldn’t help but wonder if Saguaro cactus is used for margaritas, like the Prickly Pear of the Yellowstone area.

We had traveled to and through the Phoenix area many times for business and family visits. And, while we have enjoyed the Sedona area as a vacation stop, it seemed that Scottsdale had more of a resemblance to Santa Fe. The area offered an opportunity for more museum exploration and shopping. And, once I found that Scottsdale now has a wine trail, the decision was made.

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Many Arizona wineries are located in remote areas of the state, such as Cochise County. Cochise appears to be one of the southernmost counties, with the Mexican border to the south. (For more details and another perspective, see a 2016 SWE blog post titled “Arizona Wines are gaining recognition — Imbibe and take notice!“) Some wineries have tasting rooms in Cochise County. I can see, however, that it would make sense to take some tasting rooms to the populous areas. Scottsdale appears to have the demographics to be a great location for an urban area tasting room.

Multiple wineries had already come to the same conclusion as I did about Scottsdale. The Scottsdale Wine Trail now features five winery tasting rooms/wine bars. I suppose an ambitious sort would be able to walk to all of them for tasting in a single day. That’s not our style, and the trip planner (me) had to account for temperatures of 90+ degrees, arid weather, and sun. Another opportunity for wise pacing. We chose to allow the morning for a museum, and the afternoon for two wine tastings.

We had checked into our hotel on a Friday evening. Quiet in-room dinner, a very good night’s sleep, then great morning coffee. A full Saturday on the agenda. The weather gods had smiled upon us; temperatures in the 80s to about 90. Cooler than expected equated to walk-friendly and wine-friendly.

We found that, unlike Santa Fe, free, underground, shaded parking is readily available in Scottsdale. Secured our shaded, delightfully cool space. Short walk to the Museum of the West, an affiliate of the Smithsonian. This museum was not widely mentioned in mainstream travel guides, so it may qualify as another “hidden gem”. And a valuable gem it is.

Given that we visited the Museum on a Saturday, I was concerned about crowding. Not at all. Very quiet, plenty of helpful docents. Exhibits of, it seemed, anything and everything Western culture-related. Paintings, pottery, ceramics, wildlife. All of these were well-done and enjoyable.

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But two exhibitions were just outstanding. One featured Western clothing, leather goods, and accessories such as spurs and saddles. All of these were items that either were or could be actually used by ranchers, cowboys, law enforcement, etc. And the beautiful leather tooling! Some of the saddles struck me as works of art.

The second standout featured a vast collection of movie posters and film history. OK. This sounds lightweight and even a bit immature, but the depth and breadth of the display had me taking notes. We have since viewed a western movie or two that have demonstrated great acting, scenery, and a touch of history. Before we knew it, we had spent more than 3 hours exploring the Museum.

Meanwhile, the wine tasting rooms had begun the afternoon hours. We left the Museum of the West a bit reluctantly, wearing our stickers so we could get back in if time allowed. But two tasting rooms were calling, and one must have priorities.

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Old Town Scottsdale, a brief walk from the Museum, features shopping, dining, and the Wine Trail. We did a quick reconnaissance of the shops; nothing compelling for us. On to the all-important afternoon stops.

Airidus Wine Company combines a tasting room and wine bar. The wine is produced in Willcox (Cochise County). Five wines of your choice per tasting; a one-bottle purchase of the higher-end bottlings waives the tasting fee. Fair enough. My tasting included Malvasia Blanca, Rose’ of Mourvèdre and Grenache, Grenache, Malbec and Petite Sirah. Service was excellent, with plenty of information volunteered in response to my geeky questions. My only criticism: while my palate is still developing, I clearly recognized that the Petite Sirah was corked. All of the other wines were purchase-worthy.

But it seemed to me that the reds were the most attractive. Overall impressions: deep, compelling, long finish, oak, varietally-correct fruits. So this frugal soul was drawn to not one, but two bottles. Malbec and Grenache. Plus 2 bottles of their version of casual wines, the Tank Blends. One white (Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay and Malvasia Blanca). One red (Malbec, Mourvèdre, Syrah and Montepulciano). Blends, indeed!

Map of the Scottsdale Wine Trail via: http://www.scottsdalewinetrail.com/

Map of the Scottsdale Wine Trail via: http://www.scottsdalewinetrail.com/

Carlson Creek is another tasting room with wine bar. This venue was very busy, but Wendy, the sole server, was efficient, friendly, informative, and kept moving. She gets credit for noting and understanding my CSW pin. She returned to us frequently so we could learn from each other. What fun!

With a choice of 12 wines, narrowing the field was a challenge. We sampled Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, a Rose’ of Grenache, Sangiovese, Mourvèdre, a GSM blend and Syrah. Okay, maybe I didn’t narrow the field too well; but, I had my trusty designated driver. I was walking a short distance back to the car. I kept hydrated. It was my last wine stop of the trip. I was relaxed and enjoying myself. Did I mention I was on vacation?

Decisions, decisions. The whites were enjoyable, and I can see how a white-only afficianado would have several options. But we enjoy whites, Rose’ (technically a red, but always a bridge wine to me), and reds. The reds of Carlson Creek were even more appealing to me than those of Airidus. Complexity, balance, evolving-over-minutes. Food pairings already in the mind. Evoking memories of a warm to hot climate.

Two bottles waived the tasting. Not. A. Problem. After deliberation, wine one was Mourvèdre, because of the attractive leather aromas and flavors. Could this have been a flashback to the exhibition at the Museum of the West? Possible.

Wine two, Rule of Three as a well-done GSM and for potential food-friendliness. Wine three, our favorite, the Syrah. The deep, intense, varietally-correct Syrah. Yes. If you are a Sryah lover and visit, please, please try this wine.

More water, another short walk, wine returned safely to car in cool space. Yet more water and another short walk to pick up the takeout we’d ordered. The dining establishments were not yet busy and we wanted to exit before the Saturday night crowd began. Dinner secured, all missions accomplished.

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Our final evening of the vacation. Plenty of time to begin packing and organizing for the final day of driving. Hydration, hydration, hydration. And, when we were ready, a great meal courtesy of Cowboy Ciao. This place had come highly recommended; they were correct. One of the best chopped salads I’ve ever had, truffle macaroni and cheese, and a wine pairing of Vivac Sangiovese.

Another good night’s sleep. On the drive home, I began to reflect on the many things that went well on our trip. Key success factors, to use business-speak. Pacing ourselves. Blending culture, shopping, moderate walking, wine tasting. Recognizing when it was wise to end the day and elevate feet. Stretch breaks on the road. Agenda to minimize crowds and noise. These may not be critical items for go-go-go extroverts. But they are for, ahem, aging introverts.

What about the common themes of Southwest wine? Based on my initial impressions, of course. Further study is clearly indicated. How’s that for justification of already considering what to do on the next trip?

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Shared characteristics we experienced were young wineries, many varietals per winery, more reds than whites. Maybe these vintners are still trying to establish a strategy of which grapes grow best, and then plan to focus on those. Maybe not. We also noted more reds than whites, which may equate to warm, arid climate. Pleasant, approachable whites. Clearly more compelling reds. If I had to find comparable areas, the Sierra Foothills for the New World and Spain for Old World would suffice.

Now, we have the post-trip enjoyment of seeing whether our decisions in the short-term reward us as the drinking windows begin to open. For some reason, I am optimistic.

Southwest Salute’, Cheers, and Happy New Year!

As American as Apple…Cider?

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Traditional cider is a lightly alcoholic beverage (usually less than 7% abv) produced from apples that have been crushed and pressed, with the resultant juice fermented. It is often called “hard cider” in the United States to distinguish it from unfiltered apple juice. Cider production is centered in the UK, which has the highest worldwide consumption, but many other countries and regions—including the United States—produce it as well, and cider and perry (cider produced from pears) are experiencing a renaissance that is running parallel to the other craft beverage industries.

Drawing of John Chapman (Johnny Appleseed)

Drawing of John Chapman (Johnny Appleseed)

Early American settlers took great pride in cultivating the apple tree, as evidenced by the story of the folk hero and nurseryman Johnny Appleseed (John Chapman, 1774 – 1845). Some of the oldest apple orchards in the United States are located in the more temperate areas of New England, such as Vermont, upstate New York, Massachusetts, and New Hampshire.

The popularity of apples and the subsequent spread of various types of apple seeds gave rise to myriads of new, purely American varieties, such as the Newton Pippin, that were then grafted and propagated. By the mid-1800s there were over 1,000 varieties of apples growing in the United States, most of which were used for cider.

The popularity of American cider declined with the rise of industrialism (in the mid-1800’s) as the population migrated towards city life, and was further thwarted by Prohibition. This coincided with a drastic decline in the cultivation of cider apples. These days, the majority of the apples and pears in the United States are grown in the Pacific Northwest, and most of these are for eating; however, small pockets of cider apple production may still be found in many parts of the country.

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Leading areas for American cider production include New England, the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia, the Great Lakes area, and pockets of the Pacific Northwest. The most recent statistics from the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) show that Vermont produces the most cider at about 5.3 million gallons, with New York second at 4.4 million, and California and Tennessee both at about 2.9 million gallons.

The craft cider movement is growing in the United States, but is considerably behind the renaissance sweeping craft beer and local wine. There is, however, a noticeable interest in reviving heirloom cider apple varieties, whole fruit processing, and artisan cider production.

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Some American cider producers are making ciders inspired by the Old World, while others are proving to be more experimental and creating hopped versions of cider, wine barrel-aged ciders, or combining honey and fruit to produce cyser, sometimes referred to as “apple mead” and best described as a cross between cider and mead.

American cider, as well as the production, culture, and sensory evaluation of ciders from all over the world is just a small part of the information included in the Society of Wine Educators’ Beverage Specialist Certificate.

Other topics included in this 100% online program include coffee, tea, sake, beer, distilled spirits, and—of course—wine. Click here for more information.

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Asti: Simple, Fruity, Delicious (and yet so Complicated)

http://www.astidocg.it/en/prodotto-gallery/

http://www.astidocg.it/en/prodotto-gallery/

Every wine lover—whether we admit it or not—has enjoyed a glass of Asti Spumante (which the wine cognoscenti will refer to simply as “Asti”) or Moscato d’Asti with lunch, brunch, or on New Year’s Eve.

It is predictable and quite correct—in most cases—to dismiss these sweet wines as “easy to love,” “great for beginners,” or “just a simple little quaff.” However, if we dig into the disciplinare of the Asti DOCG, we see that a range of wines are allowed to be produced under the designation—including wines from three sub-zones, late harvest wines, and bottle-fermented wines—all of which have probably never been referred to as “simple.” Add to these complications the fact that the rules of the DOCG were recently changed to allow the production of dry wines under the Asti DOCG—and we’ll see that perhaps we need to change our minds about Asti.

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For starters in breaking down the wines of Asti, we can determine that all of the wines produced under the Asti DOCG (located in Piedmont, Italy) are sparkling or slightly so, and are, in all cases, produced using 100% Moscato Bianco (more commonly known [outside of Italy] as Muscat blanc à Petits Grains). That’s pretty must where the similarities end. The differences are discussed below, after a short discussion on sweetness.

How Sweet it is: There is no simple statement of required levels of sweetness for the various versions of Asti. The appellation’s disciplinare does, however, state a required level of alcolometrico volumico potenziale—potential alcohol volume (the abv that would be achieved if all of the fermentable sugar was allowed to convert to alcohol)—in other words, a required ripeness at harvest for each style of wine. In addition, there is a required level of alcolometrico volumico effettivo—the actual alcohol by volume stated for each wine. By doing a bit of math, we can determine the difference between each wine’s required potential alcohol and required actual alcohol —which (using more math) will reveal the approximate amount of sugar allowed or required to be in the finished wine. For the purposes of this discussion, we’ll use the following formula: Brix X 0.55 = Potential Alcohol (or, Potential Alcohol/.55 = Brix).  Note: This calculation is at best a generality, but it is a good-enough starting point for a discussion on the character of these wines.

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Asti DOCG: Asti DOCG is sometimes referred to as Asti Spumante; both terms are acceptable for use under the DOCG. Asti/Asti Spumante DOCG is produced via second fermentation in pressurized tanks (autoclaves) using the production method commonly referred to as the Charmat Method—known in Piedmont as the Metodo Marinotti.  By EU definition, spumante means “sparkling” and as such, the minimum pressure of the dissolved bubbles of Asti is 3 atm. For these wines, the required minimum potential alcohol is 11.5%. Until recently, the required actual abv was 6.0% to 9.5%; a bit of math tells us that the (previsouly) required minimum residual sugar was around 3.6% (making these wines demi-sec or dolce [semi-sweet to sweet]). However…

New! Asti Secco: In August of 2017, the regulations were revised, and the maximum required actual alcohol (formerly 9.5%) was deleted. This means that Asti DOCG may now be produced in a dry style.  The only change in the actual rules appears to be the deletion of the 9.5% maximum actual abv requirement, but the Asti DOCG Consortium is encouraging the use of the term “secco” for wines with a 11% minimum abv (actual), and the use of the term “dolce” for the traditional, sweet wines. (The revision in the disciplinare only applies to Asti/Asti Spumante DOCG and does not affect the wines described below.)

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Asti Metodo Classico DOCG: These wines, which may also be referred to as Asti Spumante Metodo Classico DOCG, are required to be produced using the Traditional (bottle-fermented) Method of sparkling wine production and must be aged on the lees for a minimum of nine months. The required minimum sweetness (based on a required potential minimum alcohol of 12% and a required actual alcohol of 6% to 8%) is approximately 7% residual sugar and are therefore all of these wines are sweet (dolce).

Moscato d’Asti DOCG: This is the beloved, sweet sipper that has recently become so popular (although experienced wine lovers see this as a prime example of “everything old is new again” popularity). Moscato d’Asti is made using the “partial fermentation” method of sparkling wine production (also—somewhat obviously—also known as the “Asti method”). This means these wines are made by one pressurized fermentation (only) that is interrupted while there is just a bit of bubble (a maximum of 2 atm) built up in addition to a good deal of sweetness still left in the wine.  The numbers of 11% minimum potential alcohol and 4.5% to 6.5% acquired alcohol means that these wines are always sweet with at least 8% residual sugar (to use generalized terms).

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Moscato d’Asti Vendemmia Tardiva DOCG: This late-harvest version of Moscato d’Asti requires a minimum potential alcohol of 14% and a acquired alcohol of 11%, meaning these wines will have at least (approximately) 5% residual sugar. This wine is not allowed to be chaptalized and must be aged for at least one year from the date of harvest.

Sub-regions: As for the sub-regions of the Asti DOCG, they are only approved for a few of the wines and (of course) they have a few of their own requirements:

  • Canelli: This sub-zone (located in the center section of the DOCG) is only approved for Moscato d’Asti, and the wines using this designation must have a potential alcohol of 12% abv (slightly higher than the general requirement of 11%).
  • Santa Vittoira d’Alba: This sub-zone (located to the west of the central DOCG zone) is approved for Moscato d’Asti and Moscato d’Asti Vendemmia Tardiva.  Moscato d’Asti Santa Vittoira d’Alba must have a potential alcohol of 12%. The vendemmia tardiva wines have quite a few unique requirements, including: a potential alcohol content of 15% and an actual minimum of 12% abv, a minimum aging of two years (beginning with January 1 of the year after the vintage year), and partial-drying of the grapes (post-harvest).
  • Strevi: Like the Canelli sub-zone, Strevi (located on the eastern edge of the DOCG) is approved for Moscato d’Asti only, and the wines using this designation must have a potential alcohol of 12% abv (slightly higher than the general requirement of 11%).

Asti….like we said, so fun, fruity, simple, and (sometimes) sweet….and yet again, so complex.

References/for more information:

 

 

 

The Egg Nog Riots of 1826

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Perhaps no other drink is as closely associated with the holidays as eggnog.  Beloved for several centuries, eggnog as a drink has stayed relatively the same over the years.  The ingredients are simple: eggs, cream or milk, spices (especially nutmeg), sugar, and alcohol.  However, this seemingly basic drink has a long and somewhat storied history.

Eggnog became a popular drink in England and the Colonies near the end of the 18th century.  Originating in England, it is believed to have begun as a derivation of a drink called posset, which was a hot drink made with eggs, milk, and ale or wine. Eggnog became a favorite among the English aristocracy, who were the only group that had regular access to milk and eggs in England at the time.  The English preferred their eggnog mixed with Sherry or Madeira.

In America, where food was more available, eggnog became a standard drink. As the American colonists had easy access to rum, it became the standard mixer for eggnog.  This led to the nickname of “grog” which was a term that would be applied to rum based drinks of many types, but came to regularly refer to eggnog.

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Once the Revolutionary War began, rum was more difficult to obtain.  As a response, whiskey became the main alcoholic mixer for egg nog.  Once the war ended, a wider variety of alcohols were enjoyed.  George Washington’s recipe called not only for rum, but also for rye and sherry.

The Egg Nog Riots:  On an infamous Christmas Eve in 1826, ten West Point cadets smuggled eggs, milk, nutmeg, and two gallons of whiskey into their dormitory.  This was despite (or, perhaps, because of) the strict anti-alcohol polices of the academy. Led by future Confederate president Jefferson Davis, the cadets threw themselves an egg nog party.

As with most college parties, things soon got out of hand, and the revelers drew the attention of a teacher, Captain Ethan Allen Hitchcock.  Just as he arrived, Davis realized the trouble coming and shouted. “Put away the grog boys, Old Hitch is coming!”  Hitchcock attempted to end the party and return the cadets to their rooms.  The students rioted in response and the event led to the “Eggnog Riot” or “Grog Mutiny” which resulted in the largest expulsion of cadets in West Point’s history.

So this season, raise your whiskey and egg nog in celebration for the holidays, a new year, and the nineteen cadets who were expelled 187 years ago as a result of our favorite seasonal beverage.

References/for further reading:

Click here to return to the SWE Website.

Post authored by Ben Coffelt  – bcoffelt@societyofwineeducators.org

Austria: Serious about Sekt

http://www.austrianwine.com/our-wine/austrian-sekt/

http://www.austrianwine.com/our-wine/austrian-sekt/

As serious students of wine might remember, Austria updated it wine laws—in quite a major overhaul—in July of 2016. As part of this mashup, the laws concerning PDO Austrian Sekt were revised, and as of this the 2017 harvest, these laws have been refined and come into effect. As such, it seems like a good time to take a deep dive into the new laws concerning bubbles from Austria!

The Basics: These regulations apply to “Austrian Sekt with Protected Designation of Origin” (Österreichischer Sekt mit geschützter Ursprungsbezeichnung [gU]). Such wines must be designated on the labeled as Qualitätsschaumwein or Sekt and one of the following terms: Klassik, Reserve, or Grosse Reserve (Grand Reserve). These wines must be produced using just the 36 grape varieties designated for use in Austrian Quality wines, although specific grapes or blends are not mandated. The carbon dioxide dissolved in the bottle must be a minimum of 3.5 atm.  (Click here for a list of the: The Austria 36-Grape Varieties)

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Austrian Sekt Klassik:

  • May be produced using any sparkling wine production method
  • Grapes must be sourced from one single Austrian State, which must serve as the wine’s appellation of origin
  • Must be vinified in Austria
  • Minimum 12.5% abv
  • Minimum of 9 months aging on the lees; may be released to the consumer after October 22 of the year following harvest
  • All styles (red, white, rosé) and all sweetness levels are allowed

Austrian Sekt Reserve:

  • Must be made using the traditional method of sparkling wine production with whole-cluster pressing
  • Grapes must be sourced from one single Austrian State, which must serve as the wine’s appellation of origin
  • Must be hand-harvested
  • (No regulations regarding abv)
  • Minimum of 18 months aging on the lees; may be released to the consumer after October 22 of the second year following harvest
  • Must be brut-level sweetness or drier
  • May be red, white, or rosé, but rosé must be produced using red grapes only
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Austrian Sekt Grosse Reserve (Grand Reserve):

  • Must be made using the traditional method of sparkling wine production with whole-cluster pressing
  • Grapes must be sourced from one single Austrian winegrowing community, vineyard designation from registered sites permitted
  • Must be hand-harvested
  • (No regulations regarding abv)
  • Minimum of 30 months aging on the lees; may be released to the consumer after October 22 of the third year following harvest
  • Must be brut-level sweetness or drier (maximum 12 g/L R.S.)
  • May be red, white, or rosé, but rosé must be produced using red grapes only

For many of us, it seems like these regulations come just in time for the winter holidays, giving us one more reason to reach for the bubbly!

References/for more information:

Guest Blogger: Southwest Sojourn Part Two: New Mexico

Santa Fe, New Mexico

Santa Fe, New Mexico

Today we have a guest post—the second in a series—by an author we have all gotten to know by the nom de plume of Candi, CSW. Click here to read the first article in the series, as Candi takes us on a tour of the Grand Canyon. Below, Candi takes us on the second leg of her southwest sojourn to New Mexico—complete with museums, turquoise jewelry, and (of course) New Mexico wine!  

After a worthwhile stop at the Grand Canyon, our next destination was New Mexico. We used Santa Fe as our base of operations and took side trips to Los Alamos and Taos. Given our preferences to avoid crowds and noise, our stay in Santa Fe was on weekdays. I highly recommend this strategy if your goal is a relaxing, all-adult trip.

Our side trips were both very scenic drives, which reminded me of the book cliff-type canyons and mesas of Colorado. Highlights of our side trips included:

Bradbury Science Center, Los Alamos. This is a free, small museum located in the center of the small town. Convenient parking right outside the door, staffed by enthusiastic volunteers. If you are a history and/or science buff, this is worth a stop. Provides a sobering, educational experience of our history from World War II to the present.

Los Alamos Nature Center. Not easy to locate, but once we found the place it was a literally hidden “gem”. Apparently run by a not-for-profit, again staffed by volunteers. The outdoor exhibits feature succulent gardens and local plants. Indoors, there were exhibits about plant, insect and animal life. If I am going to view snakes, scorpions and tarantula spiders, I prefer to do so when they are in glass-enclosed cases. Then I can take a close look and identify what I hope to never see in my own yard.

Taos, New Mexico

Taos, New Mexico

Millicent Rogers Museum, Taos. Again, not easy to locate, but what a find once we got there! This museum surfaced on my pre-trip research, thank goodness. Wonderful displays of Native American blankets, rugs, pottery, and ceramics. But the highlight was clearly Ms. Rogers’ collection of Southwest jewelry. Much more elaborate than my personal taste, but stunning. Silver, turquoise, other gems, necklaces, oh my! Highly recommended if Southwest culture and art are of any interest. Yet again, a helpful volunteer provided additional information on Taos to assist us in making a few stops on the way out of town.

When we checked in at the Rogers Museum, there was only one couple next to us doing the same thing. One of them mentioned that she was American, but had married a British citizen and lived in the UK. So the wine geek in me asked if she had tried the British sparkling wines and, if so, what did she think? Well. It turned out that she and her husband own vineyards in South Africa! I have the names of their brands to research. But I ask you, what are the odds of that type of meeting in a museum on the outskirts of a small town in New Mexico? Curiouser and curiouser.

The town of Dixon is located between Taos and Santa Fe. This little place is the site of Vivac Winery. This vintner features wines made from grapes grown in New Mexico. My preferences include both small-production wineries and those that feature grapes grown in the state in which the winery is located.

Photo via: https://www.facebook.com/VivacWinery

Photo via: https://www.facebook.com/VivacWinery

Sidebar: I understand that some connoisseurs tend to, ahem, frown upon wines that are not from the glamorous, well-known viticultural areas. One of the great things about wine is there can be something for all of us to enjoy.

The Vivac facility includes wine tasting, wines by the glass and even craft beer tasting. Lesson one about tasting in relatively remote areas: tasting room staff of these facilities may not be especially knowledgeable about wine. My strategy was to take an open-ended approach; for example, just asking what the server could tell me about the wine. Note- taking. Looking at label detail. Getting what information that I could. Part of the adventure.

Vivac wines sampled included Chenin Blanc, Dry Riesling, Sangiovese, Refosco, Tempranillo, and Cabernet Sauvignon. A plus was the wide selection of varietals from which to choose. I was not, however, able to discern enough variation in wine quality and impact to purchase the more expensive wines tasted. So Chenin Blanc and Sangiovese were the choices. We have since enjoyed a bottle of each and they have proven to be solid selections. Bonus: our hotel featured a program encouraging visits to local merchants. Each wine bottle was 15% off, and I had planned this visit before even learning about the discount. Score!

Our final day in New Mexico was reserved for Santa Fe. We began with a stop at the very popular Georgia O’ Keefe Museum. If you are a fan, it is worth a stop. But beware: the museum is small and the entry fee is steep compared to others that we encountered. We will return to the gift shop, though. Nice, varied selection and, duh, no fee to get into the shop!

Until this trip, I did not realize that Santa Fe is considered quite the culinary destination. There is even a Santa Fe School of Cooking. Given my wine passion, branching out into a beginning foodie has been a natural extension. So a stop at the School’s shop for School of Cooking products was a no-brainer. Oh, and remember the 15% discount? Another score at a shop I had already planned to patronize.

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Another sidebar: for takeout dinners, we especially enjoyed Blue Corn Cafe and Rooftop Artisan Pizza. Blue Corn was a place we visited 10+ years ago and they are still going strong. Rooftop is an affiliate of Blue Corn and makes some interesting pies featuring Southwest items such as green chiles and, yes, blue corn crust.

We strolled the Santa Fe Plaza, but found the shopping to be limited with more vacant retail space than we expected. And, the shops seemed to alternate between tacky-touristy and very glamour-oriented with prices to match. A benefit that resulted: we had time to walk further, to the galleries and shops along Canyon Road.

After seeing the Rogers Museum the previous day, my interest in Southwest art, pottery and ceramics had grown. One of the Canyon Road galleries had several “starter” collectible pieces that appealed. One followed me home. Looking at the piece every few days since returning, it still entices and reminds me of the vacation. Sort of like bringing home a bottle of wine you’ve tasted, enjoying after a year or two, and confirming that your purchase was a good decision.

Thanks to our first stop at the Grand Canyon, we were acclimated to altitude. But on our Santa Fe day, we again walked well over 3 miles, all on hard surfaces. It was well worth the additional 1+ miles we put in to get to Canyon Road. At the end of the afternoon, we began to feel the impact of the activity. A bit sore. Made it back to the hotel, slowly. Walked to the lobby elevators. Tired. Just thinking of putting our feet up and re- hydrating.

Photo via: https://www.casarondena.com/winery/

Photo via: https://www.casarondena.com/winery/

Wait. My “Wine-Dar” (Wine Radar) went off on the way into the elevator. We took the elevator to our floor, unloaded all of our purchases, and my husband went to the ice machines. I just had to go back downstairs and check out my Wine-Dar. Sure enough, there was a table set up in a corner of the lobby. Hotel staff at the ready. Several bottles of Red on the table, White in an ice bucket. Glasses. I approached the table and noted one gentleman wore Sommelier name tag. OK. I explained that I was a complete wine geek, and basically asked what he was doing.

Turns out that many hotel guests are unaware that New Mexico makes wine. And, once a week, they offer wine samples to guests from one of the small wineries. This week, it was Casa Rondeña, a vintner new to me. Never one to be shy about wine, I asked if I might take a two glasses of vino up to our room; of course! So I asked about the various options and settled upon one glass of a Bordeaux-style blend of Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. My other choice was another blend: Tempranillo, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Back up the elevators with two glasses of wine and a smile on my face. Put feet up. Once that was done, there were no plans to leave the room until morning. Pacing ourselves.

For the evening, we had takeout already in the frig, along with a half-bottle of Vivac Chenin Blanc. At dinnertime, we got out the paper plates, enjoyed our takeout, and began with the Vivac in our trusty plastic wine glasses. At one point, I got up to refill my glass. Opened the frig, which required turning my back on husband. Poured some wine, and heard behind me a light tapping sound. Although I was tired, I was alert enough to know two things. One, the tapping sound was made with a plastic wine glass gently coming in contact with a table. Two, the translation was: “hit me again, woman”. He’s not a demanding soul, but, hey, I was the one standing up by the frig.

Later, each of us sampled the two Casa Rondena wines. Husband preferred the Bordeaux- style blend. I preferred the other blend. So each of us got the remainder of our preferred wine. In a glass glass, even. Funny how preferences work out that way.

A very nice visit to New Mexico. A blend of culture, beautiful drives, shopping, nice dining, and enjoying new and different wines.

By the way, did you know that Scottsdale, Arizona now has a wine trail? Stay tuned for Part Three.

In the meantime, New Mexico Wine Cheers!

Welcome to the World, Petaluma Gap AVA!

Map via: http://petalumagap.com

Map via: http://petalumagap.com

Welcome to the World, Petaluma Gap AVA!

The Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) of the United States has—just today—approved the first new American Viticultural Area (AVA) in over a year, and it is…the Petaluma Gap AVA!

Along with the approval of the new AVA—located in California’s Sonoma and Marin Counties—the southern boundary of the North Coast AVA is being expanded to include the northern portions of Marin County. The Petaluma Gap AVA overlaps a portion of the Sonoma Coast AVA and will be considered a sub-appellation of the newly re-outlined North Coast AVA.

The petition for the Petaluma Gap AVA was submitted by the Petaluma Gap Winegrowers Alliance in February of 2015. According to the petition, the unique factors of the area include the following:

  • The Petaluma Gap itself: A geological feature known as a “wind gap,” the Petaluma gap is actually a 15-mile-wide area of low-lying hills that create something of an opening in the otherwise much taller Coast Mountains. This area stretches from the Pacific Ocean, eastward to the bucolic Sonoma town of Petaluma, and then straight on through to San Pablo Bay. The effect on the area is as follows: as the inland areas heat up during the day, the heat causes the warm air to rise, and the cool air off the Pacific Ocean is pulled up into the gap. The wind gains speed as it travels, and eventually empties into the bay.
  • The Wind: Late afternoon wind speed within the Petaluma Gap is typically 8 miles per hour, and it is often clocked in at over 20 mph. In contrast, winds in the surrounding areas rarely get above 2 or 3 miles per hour.
  • The Climate: Mornings are cool and typically foggy. Late mornings and early afternoons are increasingly warm after the fog burns off. However, the breezes typically begin by mid-afternoon, cooling things down and bringing in the evening fog. The diurnal temperature range can be forty to fifty degrees (F).
  • The Grapes: The almost-daily winds tend to help reduce yield in the vines, creating late-ripening, small-berried fruit with intense flavors and good acidity.
Map via: http://petalumagap.com

Map via: http://petalumagap.com

An announcement regarding the establishment of the Petaluma Gap AVA was published in the Federal Register on December, 7, 2017; this final rule will be effective on January 8, 2018. The area within the new AVA totals 202,476 acres. There are currently over 80 winegrowers, 4,000 acres of vines, and 9 wineries located within the boundaries of the new region. The area is planted mainly to Pinot Noir along with Chardonnay and Syrah. Click here for a list of wineries located within the region, as well as those that produce wine using Petaluma Gap fruit.

We look forward to tasting these wines—and welcome to the world, Petaluma Gap AVA!

Note: Before today, the last AVA to be approved in the United States was the Appalachian High Country AVA (encompassing parts of North Carolina, Virginia, and Tennessee) in October of 2016. With the change in the Executive Branch that occurred earlier this year, several key posts at the Department of the Treasury were left vacant, including several whose signatures are required for new AVA rulings. However, in recent weeks these positions have been filled (including Brent James McIntosh, General Counsel and David Kautte, Assistant Secretary for Tax Policy). It seems that the business of approving AVAs is back on!

References/for more information:

Belgium and the Netherlands have a PDO Wine: the Maasvallei Limburg PDO

Map via: http://wijngoed-thorn.nl/nl/3/nieuws

Map via: http://wijngoed-thorn.nl/nl/3/nieuws

The Maas River (known in France as the Meuse) runs for over 575 miles (925 km) from its source in France’s Grand Est Region. From there, it flows north through Belgium, then forms a portion of the border between Belgium and the Netherlands before turning slightly to the east and wandering a bit before joining the Hollands Diep and flowing into the North Sea.

A portion of the area where the Maas forms the border between Belgium and the Netherlands (about 60 square miles) is known as the Maasvallei Limburg. Maasvallei Limburg has (believe it or not) recently been designated as a PDO wine region by the European Union. This is noteworthy for several reasons, including the area’s northerly location (between 50° and 51ºN) and the fact that this will be the first PDO wine region that crosses the border and includes area within two separate EU countries.

According to the EU petition, “Grapes for wine were cultivated in the abbeys along the Maas in the early Middle Ages. Historical texts refer to modest wine production within the abbey walls. A number of place names also refer to vineyards—including “Wingerd” (vine)—which indicate a history of wine cultivation in the area. Wine was one of the reasons that the convent of noble Benedictine nuns in Thorn acquired its status as an abbey-principality.”

In modern times, winemaking is fairly new to the area, and still somewhat obscure with just 10 producers on the Belgian side of the area (including Wijnomein Aldeneyck) and only one on the Dutch side (Wijngoed Thorn).

The Sint Servaasbrug Bridge over the River Maas (Maastricht, the Netherlands)

The Sint Servaasbrug Bridge over the River Maas (Maastricht, the Netherlands)

The Maasvallei Limburg PDO is approved for varietally-labeled red and white wines—however, according to the EU documentation, “blending is allowed, but something of an exception.”  Grapes approved for the region include the following:

  • Red Grapes: Acolon (a Blauer Lemberger  X Dornfelder cross), Dornfelder, and Pinot Noir
  • White Grapes: Auxerrois, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling, and Siegerrebe (a Madeleine Angevine X Gewürztraminer cross)

Welcome to the world, Maasvallei Limburg PDO!

References/for more information: