Welcome to the World, Altos de Pinto Bandeira DO!

Photo of the Altos de Pinto Bandeira regiion via Asprovinho

Photo of the Altos de Pinto Bandeira regiion via Asprovinho

As of November 2022, Brazil has granted Denominação de Origem (DO) status to the Altos de Pinto Bandeira wine region. Located in the hills of Brazil’s Rio Grande do Sul state, the appellation is approved for sparkling wine only.  Along with the previously established Vale do Vinhedos, Altos de Pinto Bandeira represents Brazil’s second wine region to earn the Denominação de Origem  designation.

The Altos de Pinto Bandeira DO is centered on the municipalities of Pinto Bandeira, Farroupilha, and Bento Gonçalves. It is situated on the 29th parallel, somewhat in the north/central area of Rio Grande do Sul (about 115 miles/185 km inland of the Brazil’s Atlantic Coast, and 250 miles/415 km north of the border with Uruguay). Vineyards are located among the rolling hills and small mountains south of the Rio das Antas (River Antas). The elevation—averaging 632 meters/2,075 feet asl—allows for a good deal of sunshine while keeping the climate somewhat cooler than would be expected given the latitude.

AltosdePintoBandeiraThe sparkling wines of the Altos de Pinto Bandeira DO must be produced in the traditional method (requiring a second fermentation in the bottle followed by sur lie aging). Only three grape varieties— Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Welschriesling (also known as Riesling Italico or Graševina)—are permitted. According to the regulations—as published in the country’s Revista da Propriedade Industrial (Journal of Industrial Property)—the wine is expected to show balanced acidity and a velvety texture in addition to a complex range of aromas and flavors to include notes of citrus, yeast, honey, and roasted almonds.

Sparkling wine has been produced in the state of Rio Grande do Sul since the early 1900s. The area has recently seen international recognition and investment, including the Moët & Chandon Brasil estate, established in 1973. A range of wine (sparkling and otherwise) is produced in the area; however, currently there are only four wineries are permitted to use the Altos de Pinto Bandeira DO label for traditional method sparkling wines: Família Geisse, Vinícola Aurora, Vinícola Don Giovanni, and Vinícola Valmarino.

Rio Grande do Sul red highlighted in map of BrazilWelcome to the world, Altos de Pinto Bandeira DO!

In addition to the two DOs, Brazil currently has several wine regions designated as Indicação Geográfica (IG); this designation is (theoretically) a step below the Denominação de Origem category in terms of status, regional specificity, and regulation. These include Monte Belo IG, Farroupilha IG, and Altos Montes IG (all located within the state of Río Grande do Sul).

Note: Altos de Pinto Bandeira was previously registered as an Indicação Geográfica (IG); this announcement reflects the region’s ascension to the higher-level DO status.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Singani (now recognized by the TTB)!

.

.

As of January 12, 2023, the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) of the United States has recognized Singani as a specifically defined type of brandy and a distinctive product of Bolivia. Singani has been legally defined in the Plurinational State of Bolivia (Bolivia) since 1992, when the government established a set of regulations regarding the spirit’s production as well as a protected denomination of origin (DO) for Singani.

  • Under the TTB rules, Singani is produced and labeled in accordance with the laws of Bolivia. These regulations include the following:
    • Distilled from grape wine (or pomace) made of vitis vinifera grapes
    • Grapes must be grown within the defined growing region—described as those areas within the departments of Chuquisaca, Tarija, Potosi, and La Paz at a minimum altitude of 1,600 meters/5,250 feet above sea level.
    • The product must also be prepared, distilled, and bottled within the defined growing region.
    • Under the Bolivian code, several different categories of Singani are defined, including “High-Altitude Singani” which must be produced exclusively from Muscat of Alexandria grapes, and “Singani Second Selection” which may include grape pomace.
    • Singani is not typically aged in wood, and wood aging is not required.
.

Map of Bolvia

The TTB definition of Singani follows the Bolivian standards for the product with the exception of the minimum bottling proof. Bolivian rules allow Singani to be bottled at a minimum of 35% abv; however, for those products so labeled in the United States, the minimum abv for all types of unflavored brandy—including Singani—is 40%.

With this new rule, Singani joins the list of products that are specifically defined and regulated under the TTB general class definition of brandy—those already on the list include Cognac, Armagnac, Pisco, Applejack, Calvados, Kirschwasser, and Slivovitz.

Click here for a relief map of Bolivia  that clearly shows the high-altitude regions in the western reaches of the country.

Cheers to Singani!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

The Médoc Marches On

Now—as of December 2022—it seems like the grape modifications are marching onward, as three appellations located on Bordeaux’s Left Bank—Médoc AOC, Haut-Médoc AOC and Listrac-Médoc AOC—have embraced the changes as well.

These three appellations are all approved for red wines only (although there are rumors that the Médoc AOC may soon adopt the production of white wines). As such, the classic list of red Bordeaux grapes in these appellations—Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Merlot, Petite Verdot, and  Carmenère—has been supplanted with Arinarnoa, Castets, Marselan, and Touriga Nacional.

As is true with the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur AOCs, the new grapes are allowed to comprise a maximum of 5% of the vineyard area of any estate and no more than 10% of the final blend of any wine. Besides these limitations (and the still-concise list of approved grapes), the wines of all three appellations—Médoc AOC, Haut-Médoc AOC and Listrac-Médoc AOC—have no other rules concerning the number (or amounts) of grapes in the blend.

Stay tuned! More changes are in the works.

Note: As with all such updates, this change will need to wind its way through EU authorization; however, as the government of France has granted their approval, the changes are considered to be in force. If the EU fails to approve the amendment, the regulation will be rescinded.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

A Glass of Voltis (in your Champagne) might be in your Future!

VoltisThe rumors have been circulating for more than a year, and as of December 10 (2022) it’s official: a glass of Voltis (or at least a bit of Voltis in your Champagne) might be in your future.

Back in August of 2021, the Growers’ Association in Champagne (Syndicat Général des Vignerons de la Champagne, or SGV) voted to allow limited plantings of the Voltis grape variety—a fungus-resistant, interspecific hybrid grape variety—for use in the wines of the Champagne AOC. As of November of 2022, the proposal was approved by France’s Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité (INAO), and the newly revised Cahier des Charges was published in the Journal Officiel de la République Française (Official Journal of the French Republic) on December 10, 2022.

Voltis contains DNA from Vitis vinifera, Vitis berlandieri, Vitis rupestris, and Vitis muscadinia. It was created via a collaboration between the INAO (Montpellier, France) and the Julius Kühn Institute (Siebeldingen, Germany). Classified as a fungus resistant PIWI variety (Pi = Pilz [fungus]; wi = widerstandsfähig [resistant]), Voltis is believed to be entirely resistant to powdery mildew and highly resistant to downy mildew.

Voltis is the first interspecific fungus resistant grape to be allowed for use in a French appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC) product, and just the second hybrid grape so allowed—after Baco Blanc (Baco 22A), which is allowed for use in the brandies of the Armagnac AOC. The Voltis grape is part of a group of experimental grapes being reviewed throughout France as d’intérêt à fin d’adaptation (“of interest for the purpose of adaptation”) that are intended to allow for the expansion of organic viticulture (based on reduced need for chemical herbicides and fungicides) and to respond to the challenges of climate change.

Voltis produces medium-sized and moderately compact bunches. The berries are medium-sized, thick-skinned, and somewhat neutral in flavor.

For the time being, Voltis will be allowed in the wines of the Champagne AOC on a ten-year trial basis. Voltis may comprise no more than 5% of the vineyard area of any estate. This update follows on the heels of a similar change recently seen in Bordeaux. 

Cheers to Voltis!

Note: As with all such updates, this change will need to wind its way through EU authorization; however, as the government of France has granted their approval, the changes are considered to be in force. If the EU fails to approve the amendment, the regulation will be rescinded.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Dispatch from Gigondas (and Gigondas Blanc)

.

.

Gigondas—located just to the north of Vacquerayas and Beames-de-Venise in France’s Southern Rhône Valley—has historically been known for its cathartic waters (Eau Purgative de Montmirail), its dramatic location at the foot of the jagged mountains of the Dentelles de Montmirail, and its rustic wines (red and rosé) based on Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre.

All of this remains true, but as of the 2023 vintage, Gigondas can boast another claim to fame: white wines! The newly approved Gigondas Blanc designation applies to dry white wines based on the Clairette Blanc grape variety.

  • The regulations regarding these wines include the following:
    • Principal grape (cépage principal): Clairette Blanc must comprise a minimum of 70% of the blend (many wines may be 100% Clairette)
    • Complementary grapes (cépages complémentaires): Bourboulenc, Clairette Rose, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, blanc and gris, Marsanne, Piquepoul, and/or Roussanne may be included up to a maximum of 30% (combined)
    • Accessory grapes (cépages accessoires): Viognier and/or Ugni Blanc may be included up to a maximum of 5% (combined)
    • Minimum of 12% abv
    • Maximum of 3 g/L (approximately 0.3%) residual sugar
Map of the Gigondas AOC via the INAO (click to enlarge)

Map of the Gigondas AOC via the INAO (click to enlarge)

White grapes have been grown in Gigondas since antiquity.  However, when the original AOC for the region was granted back in 1971, it applied to red and rosé wines only. This meant that any white wine produced from grapes grown in the area would have to be labeled under a more generic appellation, such as the Côtes du Rhône AOC, Côtes du Rhône-Villages AOC, or the Vin de Pays (IGP) Vaucluse.

It is estimated that the region currently has about 16 ha/40 acres dedicated to white grapes, spread out over about 30 different owners. This is certainly a drop-in-the-bucket compared to the region’s 1,180 hectares/2,900 acres of red grapes. However, it is believed that amount of white wine made in the region may soon overshadow the region’s rosé, which currently accounts for a mere 1% of the total production.

The updated Cahier des Charges for the Gigondas AOC was published in the Journal Officiel de la République Française (Official Journal of the Republic of France) on September 23, 2022. Welcome to the world, Gigondas Blanc!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Dispatch from Rimini (and the Rimini DOC)

Ponte di Tiberio (the Bridge of Tiberius), Rimini

Ponte di Tiberio (the Bridge of Tiberius), Rimini

The province of Rimini is tucked into the southern corner of the region of Emilia Romagna, bordering the Adriatic Sea. It is just south of the province of Forlì-Cesena and wraps around the tiny enclave of San Marino (to the south); the rest of the southern border is shared with the region of Marches.

Its capital city—also named Rimini—is recognized as one of the leading beach resorts of all of Italy. The city was founded by the Romans in 268 BCE and is well-known for its numerous Roman and Renaissance monuments (including a Roman amphitheater) and museums (covering artifacts both ancient and modern). The city also features in a number of famous films—which might be expected, as it is the birthplace of Federico Fellini himself.

The province of Rimini has produced wine since the Roman times and continues to produce a range of wine and wine styles—some from locally specific grape varieties rarely seen outside of the area. The large Colli di Rimini DOC was created in 1996 and covers an area along the coastal plain and into the foothills of the Alps.

.

.

NEWS FLASH (for wine students): The name of the Colli di Rimini appellation was recently changed (as of September 2022) to Rimini DOC.

The Rimini DOC is approved for two basic styles of blended wine—bianco (white) and rosso (red)—as well as four specific varietals. These are discussed below:

  • Rimini Bianco: This is a dry, light- to medium-bodied white wine produced using a minimum of 30% Trebbiano. Up to 60% may comprise Bombino Bianco or Sangiovese (vinified as a white wine); the remainder (up to 10%) may be any white grape suitable for the region.
  • Rimini Rosso: Rimini Rosso is a dry, medium- to full-bodied wine based on (at least 30%) Sangiovese. It may contain up to 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and/or Syrah. Up to 10% of the blend may comprise Alicante, Montepulciano, Petit Verdot, and/or Rebo (a Merlot X Teroldego cross).
  • Rimini Cabernet Sauvignon: This is a dry, medium- to full-bodied red wine based on a minimum of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon.  (A super-Emilian, perhaps?)
  • Rimini Sangiovese: This is a dry, medium- to medium-plus-bodied red wine based on a minimum of 85% Sangiovese.
  • .

    .

    Rimini Biancame: This is a dry, medium-bodied white wine produced using a minimum of 85% Biancame. Biancame is a rare grape—it is estimated there are only 5,000 acres/2,080 hectares planted worldwide; most of these are found in the area around Marches and Emilia-Romagna. It is sometimes known as Bianchello, and as such is the star of the (quite obscure) Bianchello del Metauro DOC of northern Marches.

  • Rimini Rebola: This white wine—which may be produced either as a dry wine or a sweet wine (via the passito/dried grape production process)—is made using a minimum of 85% Grechetto Gentile. Grechetto Gentile is native to Emilia-Romagna, also known as Grechetto di Todi, formerly known as Rebola, and known in certain appellations as Pignoletto.

Alas, unless you are in Italy, it may be difficult to find wine from the Rimini DOC. Sounds like a great excuse for a road trip!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Meet the New SWE Board: Hugh Lander, CSS!

Hugh Lander, CSS

Hugh Lander, CSS

Last August, SWE welcomed in a new president as well as a new Board of Directors. Over the next few weeks, we will be posting a series of articles to introduce our new leaders. Today, we would like to introduce a new member of SWE’s Board of Directors, Hugh Lander, CSS!

Hugh Lander’s first foray into wine and spirits education began in 1986 when he was asked to recommend a wine to serve with Thanksgiving Dinner. His suggestion—Blue Nun—was a resounding success and since that day, he has racked up over three decades of experience in the wine and spirits industry.

While Hugh has worked in the retail, distributor, and supplier sides of the industry, his focus for the last 20 years has centered on learning & development. His work history includes such companies as the former Charmer-Sunbelt companies, Diageo and MillerCoors.

Since 2011, Hugh has served as Rémy-Cointreau America’s Director of Commercial Training, covering North America, Latin America & the Caribbean, as well as South America. Hugh—a recognized expert in change management, sales capability training and leadership development—has global training experience and world-class presentation and facilitation skills. We are lucky to have him on board!

When asked about his goals as a new board member for the Society of Wine Educators, High replies, “I’d like to leverage my decades in the spirits industry to increase the number of people sitting for the CSS or CSE certifications and partner with distributors who want to offer SWE certifications to their associates.”

Hugh has been a frequent (and very well-received) speaker at a number of SWE’s in-person conferences, virtual conferences, and webinars. He is also a veteran of the United States Air Force where–small world–he served with former member of the SWE Board, Valerie Caruso. He currently lives in Orange County, California with his wife and two children, where he is active in community projects and career coaching.

Welcome to the Board, Hugh Lander, CSS!

Meet the New SWE Board: Jarred Craven, CSS

Jarred Craven, CSS

Jarred Craven, CSS

Last August, SWE welcomed in a new president as well as a new Board of Directors. Over the next few weeks, we’ll be posting a series of articles to introduce our new leaders. Today, we would like to introduce a new member of SWE’s Board of Directors, Jarred Craven, CSS!

Jarred Craven’s expertise in spirits spans over two decades, beginning with his time at the University of Florida. While he eventually graduated with a degree in anthropology, his work as a bartender while in school fueled his lifelong passion and ambition in the spirits industry.

After graduation, he honed his beverage skills at hospitality-driven venues and craft cocktail bars. He has continuously pursued his beverage education through earning numerous certifications, excelling at cocktail competitions, attending industry conferences, and solidifying his place in the United States Bartenders Guild. Within the USBG, he has acted as Chapter President, Board Member, and Education Committee Chair—where he organized a diverse array of events, including Texas Tiki Week.

In 2016, Jarred became involved with the Society of Wine Educators when, through a cocktail competition, he won a scholarship to pursue the CSS certification, earning a rare perfect score when he sat the exam in 2018. Living in Austin, Texas at the time, he crossed paths with Jane Nickles (SWE’s Director of Education) and Shields Hood (SWE’s General Manager), leading to collaboration (and some raucous wine classes) between SWE and the local chapter of the United States Bartenders Guild.

When asked about his focus as a new board member for the Society of Wine Educators, Jarred replies, “As part of the board I would love to bring more representation for spirits into SWE. The educational content is already there. I want to work at getting the larger community to recognize that and seek out the certifications that can help them advance in their careers. In particular, I would love to be able to offer scholarship opportunities through partnerships with brands and trade-related charities to serve a wider audience and to diversify the membership of SWE.”

You can find out more about Jarred at his website, Craven Cocktails.

Welcome to the Board, Jarred Craven, CSS!

The INAO has Spoken: the 2022 Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé

.

.

Wine classification systems are a big deal in Bordeaux. Even beginning wine students are familiar with the area’s famous Classification of 1855, and advanced students can tell tales of the Crus Classés of Graves (1953), the Cru Artisan (2002), and the Cru Bourgeois (2020).

And then there is the Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé, established in 1954 and positioned to be more modern and democratic, subject to reclassification every ten years. The ranking has, however, been met with a great deal of controversy in recent years, beginning with rumblings that the system has become overly complex and politicized. This was followed by a dizzying plethora of court cases and legal challenges that nearly annulled the classifications of 2006 and 2012, and by the time the 2020s rolled around, many people were wondering how the system would even survive.

The past few years have brought about even more controversy as three of the region’s top-rated Châteaux—Château Angélus, Château Ausone, and Château Cheval-Blanc—opted out of the system and declined to submit applications for the 2022 rankings.

As such, there has been much debate about the future of the Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé. However, now we know: just this morning (September 8, 2022), France’s Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité (INAO) has spoken, and the new classification has been released. Two properties—Château Figeac and Château Pavie—earned the coveted top ranking and are now recognized as Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé A. Note: Château Pavie thus retained its “A” level designation from the previous classifications, and Château Figeac was promoted from the “B” classification it had previously earned.

An additional twelve properties earned the designation of Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé B, while another 71 are hereby recognized as Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé. Click here for a complete listing of the new rankings, as well as further information from the INAO.

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Guest Post: Walla Walla Wine Country—the Soils with a Story

A Red Barn in the wheat field of the Palouse, Washington State,Today we have a guest post from Darla Hoffmann, CS, CSW. Darla tells us about her recent trip to the Walla Walla Wine Country with a special focus on the vineyard soils.

While visiting Walla Walla, it’s hard not to glorify the impact of the Missoula Floods. The massive amounts of water that plowed through this part of the earth 12,000 to 18,000 years ago created the rugged mountain formations and current landscapes. It left behind an array of soils from loess, silt, sand, and volcanic in some parts to marine sedimentary and granite in others. This catastrophic event brought such fortune to the present-day terrain and is largely responsible for the beauty and agriculture that now exists.

Walla Walla is approximately a four-hour drive from Boise, Idaho. The drive curves along parts of the Snake River and leads to a dramatic sighting of wheat farms that blanket both sides of the road. An important piece of the economy, I appreciated the views of unharvested wheat for miles. However, we ultimately saw the combine harvesters hard at work and, imagined the auspicious state of affairs for bread, baked goods, and beer.

Photo credit: Darla Hoffman

Photo credit: Darla Hoffman

The Walla Walla region has become one of the Northwest’s most important wine-producing regions. The Walla Walla Valley is a sub-AVA within the Columbia Valley. Two-thirds of the AVA is in Washington and one-third is in Oregon.  The Milton-Freewater Rocks District is a sub-ava within the Walla Walla Valley that resides completely in Oregon. As of 2018, about 56.7% of the vines were grown in Washington and 43.3% in Oregon, with 25.8% of Oregon plantings in The Rocks District. Even though a large amount of fruit comes from the Oregon side, most of the wineries are in Washington with only a handful in Oregon.

The sunny region enjoys cool evening temperatures, with minimal rainfall due to its location east of the Cascade Mountains. These diurnal shifts are responsible for the high acid and alcohol levels developed in the grapes. The climate crisis has been challenging for the region as every year is hotter than the last. Walla Walla’s hot summers and cold winters deem thicker-skinned, hearty grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah preferred plantings. Bordeaux varieties like Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Malbec also thrive in these parts. Although it’s mostly red wine country, Chardonnay and Riesling are some of the whites that have made a name for themselves.

SAMSUNG CSCAs the wine belt indicates, the appropriate latitude for grape growing is anywhere between 30° and 50°. Walla Walla sits at 46°; if you draw a line across the globe, you’d notice 46° is midway between Burgundy and Bordeaux in France. Although Bordeaux has long warm sunny days, it is unlike Walla Walla in that it is influenced by a maritime climate. Nonetheless, what makes these regions similar is that they both owe their soils to the freezing and melting of glaciers of years ago. The deposit of these rocks and gravel provides excellent drainage and helps absorb and radiate heat both at the grapes and into the soils beneath.

Moreover, the Rhone Valley of France, sitting at about 44° latitude on the map just south of Burgundy, has an abundance of rocky soils – like what you will find in the Walla Walla Valley. Syrah, native to the Rhone Valley, adapts well to these rocky soils. The Milton-Freewater Rocks District AVA in Oregon’s Walla Walla Valley is named and known by these infamous rocks. Furthermore, some distinct aromas and flavors come from The Rocks District. Although the climate is mostly consistent all over Walla Walla, wine from this region delivers funkier, smoky, almost gamey notes. These characteristics are commonly found in Syrah from the Rhone Valley as well. Some say this is a by-product of the precious, rocky soils.

Photo Credit: Darla Hoffman

Photo Credit: Darla Hoffman

There are approximately 120 wineries in the Walla Walla region, considered the unofficial capital of Washington Wine Country. Although not as widely sourced for retail nationwide as wine from California, or even the Willamette Valley, Oregon, they are gaining more visibility each year. The Walla Walla Valley is the three-time defending champion (2020-2022) and five-time finalist (2018-2022) in USA Today’s annual 10 best reader’s choice awards for America’s Best Wine Region. A few of my winery recommendations include Va Piano, Canvasback, Caprio Cellars, and Balboa Winery in Washington—along with Ducleaux Cellars, Rôtie Cellars, and Watermill Winery in Oregon.

About the author: Darla Hoffmann is a wine and travel journalist, Certified Sommelier, Certified Specialist of Wine, and owner of About Wine, a wine education and marketing company. Darla is a freelance writer and has her own blog on wine and travel throughout the world. She was the lead writer for AZ UNCORKED/the Arizona Wine Festival and The Arizona Wine Guide. Darla is a current member of the International Food, Wine & Travel Writers Association (IFWTWA), The Society of Wine Educators, and The Wine Century Club. She conducts wine classes and tastings at various venues all over the country and provides sales and marketing support to the wine industry in the form of tasting videos, articles & blogs, events, and staff education, account development, and client relationships. You can contact Darla via her website.