Dispatch from Gigondas (and Gigondas Blanc)

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Gigondas—located just to the north of Vacquerayas and Beames-de-Venise in France’s Southern Rhône Valley—has historically been known for its cathartic waters (Eau Purgative de Montmirail), its dramatic location at the foot of the jagged mountains of the Dentelles de Montmirail, and its rustic wines (red and rosé) based on Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre.

All of this remains true, but as of the 2023 vintage, Gigondas can boast another claim to fame: white wines! The newly approved Gigondas Blanc designation applies to dry white wines based on the Clairette Blanc grape variety.

  • The regulations regarding these wines include the following:
    • Principal grape (cépage principal): Clairette Blanc must comprise a minimum of 70% of the blend (many wines may be 100% Clairette)
    • Complementary grapes (cépages complémentaires): Bourboulenc, Clairette Rose, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, blanc and gris, Marsanne, Piquepoul, and/or Roussanne may be included up to a maximum of 30% (combined)
    • Accessory grapes (cépages accessoires): Viognier and/or Ugni Blanc may be included up to a maximum of 5% (combined)
    • Minimum of 12% abv
    • Maximum of 3 g/L (approximately 0.3%) residual sugar
Map of the Gigondas AOC via the INAO (click to enlarge)

Map of the Gigondas AOC via the INAO (click to enlarge)

White grapes have been grown in Gigondas since antiquity.  However, when the original AOC for the region was granted back in 1971, it applied to red and rosé wines only. This meant that any white wine produced from grapes grown in the area would have to be labeled under a more generic appellation, such as the Côtes du Rhône AOC, Côtes du Rhône-Villages AOC, or the Vin de Pays (IGP) Vaucluse.

It is estimated that the region currently has about 16 ha/40 acres dedicated to white grapes, spread out over about 30 different owners. This is certainly a drop-in-the-bucket compared to the region’s 1,180 hectares/2,900 acres of red grapes. However, it is believed that amount of white wine made in the region may soon overshadow the region’s rosé, which currently accounts for a mere 1% of the total production.

The updated Cahier des Charges for the Gigondas AOC was published in the Journal Officiel de la République Française (Official Journal of the Republic of France) on September 23, 2022. Welcome to the world, Gigondas Blanc!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Dispatch from Rimini (and the Rimini DOC)

Ponte di Tiberio (the Bridge of Tiberius), Rimini

Ponte di Tiberio (the Bridge of Tiberius), Rimini

The province of Rimini is tucked into the southern corner of the region of Emilia Romagna, bordering the Adriatic Sea. It is just south of the province of Forlì-Cesena and wraps around the tiny enclave of San Marino (to the south); the rest of the southern border is shared with the region of Marches.

Its capital city—also named Rimini—is recognized as one of the leading beach resorts of all of Italy. The city was founded by the Romans in 268 BCE and is well-known for its numerous Roman and Renaissance monuments (including a Roman amphitheater) and museums (covering artifacts both ancient and modern). The city also features in a number of famous films—which might be expected, as it is the birthplace of Federico Fellini himself.

The province of Rimini has produced wine since the Roman times and continues to produce a range of wine and wine styles—some from locally specific grape varieties rarely seen outside of the area. The large Colli di Rimini DOC was created in 1996 and covers an area along the coastal plain and into the foothills of the Alps.

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NEWS FLASH (for wine students): The name of the Colli di Rimini appellation was recently changed (as of September 2022) to Rimini DOC.

The Rimini DOC is approved for two basic styles of blended wine—bianco (white) and rosso (red)—as well as four specific varietals. These are discussed below:

  • Rimini Bianco: This is a dry, light- to medium-bodied white wine produced using a minimum of 30% Trebbiano. Up to 60% may comprise Bombino Bianco or Sangiovese (vinified as a white wine); the remainder (up to 10%) may be any white grape suitable for the region.
  • Rimini Rosso: Rimini Rosso is a dry, medium- to full-bodied wine based on (at least 30%) Sangiovese. It may contain up to 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and/or Syrah. Up to 10% of the blend may comprise Alicante, Montepulciano, Petit Verdot, and/or Rebo (a Merlot X Teroldego cross).
  • Rimini Cabernet Sauvignon: This is a dry, medium- to full-bodied red wine based on a minimum of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon.  (A super-Emilian, perhaps?)
  • Rimini Sangiovese: This is a dry, medium- to medium-plus-bodied red wine based on a minimum of 85% Sangiovese.
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    Rimini Biancame: This is a dry, medium-bodied white wine produced using a minimum of 85% Biancame. Biancame is a rare grape—it is estimated there are only 5,000 acres/2,080 hectares planted worldwide; most of these are found in the area around Marches and Emilia-Romagna. It is sometimes known as Bianchello, and as such is the star of the (quite obscure) Bianchello del Metauro DOC of northern Marches.

  • Rimini Rebola: This white wine—which may be produced either as a dry wine or a sweet wine (via the passito/dried grape production process)—is made using a minimum of 85% Grechetto Gentile. Grechetto Gentile is native to Emilia-Romagna, also known as Grechetto di Todi, formerly known as Rebola, and known in certain appellations as Pignoletto.

Alas, unless you are in Italy, it may be difficult to find wine from the Rimini DOC. Sounds like a great excuse for a road trip!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Meet the New SWE Board: Hugh Lander, CSS!

Hugh Lander, CSS

Hugh Lander, CSS

Last August, SWE welcomed in a new president as well as a new Board of Directors. Over the next few weeks, we will be posting a series of articles to introduce our new leaders. Today, we would like to introduce a new member of SWE’s Board of Directors, Hugh Lander, CSS!

Hugh Lander’s first foray into wine and spirits education began in 1986 when he was asked to recommend a wine to serve with Thanksgiving Dinner. His suggestion—Blue Nun—was a resounding success and since that day, he has racked up over three decades of experience in the wine and spirits industry.

While Hugh has worked in the retail, distributor, and supplier sides of the industry, his focus for the last 20 years has centered on learning & development. His work history includes such companies as the former Charmer-Sunbelt companies, Diageo and MillerCoors.

Since 2011, Hugh has served as Rémy-Cointreau America’s Director of Commercial Training, covering North America, Latin America & the Caribbean, as well as South America. Hugh—a recognized expert in change management, sales capability training and leadership development—has global training experience and world-class presentation and facilitation skills. We are lucky to have him on board!

When asked about his goals as a new board member for the Society of Wine Educators, High replies, “I’d like to leverage my decades in the spirits industry to increase the number of people sitting for the CSS or CSE certifications and partner with distributors who want to offer SWE certifications to their associates.”

Hugh has been a frequent (and very well-received) speaker at a number of SWE’s in-person conferences, virtual conferences, and webinars. He is also a veteran of the United States Air Force where–small world–he served with former member of the SWE Board, Valerie Caruso. He currently lives in Orange County, California with his wife and two children, where he is active in community projects and career coaching.

Welcome to the Board, Hugh Lander, CSS!

Meet the New SWE Board: Jarred Craven, CSS

Jarred Craven, CSS

Jarred Craven, CSS

Last August, SWE welcomed in a new president as well as a new Board of Directors. Over the next few weeks, we’ll be posting a series of articles to introduce our new leaders. Today, we would like to introduce a new member of SWE’s Board of Directors, Jarred Craven, CSS!

Jarred Craven’s expertise in spirits spans over two decades, beginning with his time at the University of Florida. While he eventually graduated with a degree in anthropology, his work as a bartender while in school fueled his lifelong passion and ambition in the spirits industry.

After graduation, he honed his beverage skills at hospitality-driven venues and craft cocktail bars. He has continuously pursued his beverage education through earning numerous certifications, excelling at cocktail competitions, attending industry conferences, and solidifying his place in the United States Bartenders Guild. Within the USBG, he has acted as Chapter President, Board Member, and Education Committee Chair—where he organized a diverse array of events, including Texas Tiki Week.

In 2016, Jarred became involved with the Society of Wine Educators when, through a cocktail competition, he won a scholarship to pursue the CSS certification, earning a rare perfect score when he sat the exam in 2018. Living in Austin, Texas at the time, he crossed paths with Jane Nickles (SWE’s Director of Education) and Shields Hood (SWE’s General Manager), leading to collaboration (and some raucous wine classes) between SWE and the local chapter of the United States Bartenders Guild.

When asked about his focus as a new board member for the Society of Wine Educators, Jarred replies, “As part of the board I would love to bring more representation for spirits into SWE. The educational content is already there. I want to work at getting the larger community to recognize that and seek out the certifications that can help them advance in their careers. In particular, I would love to be able to offer scholarship opportunities through partnerships with brands and trade-related charities to serve a wider audience and to diversify the membership of SWE.”

You can find out more about Jarred at his website, Craven Cocktails.

Welcome to the Board, Jarred Craven, CSS!

The INAO has Spoken: the 2022 Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé

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Wine classification systems are a big deal in Bordeaux. Even beginning wine students are familiar with the area’s famous Classification of 1855, and advanced students can tell tales of the Crus Classés of Graves (1953), the Cru Artisan (2002), and the Cru Bourgeois (2020).

And then there is the Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé, established in 1954 and positioned to be more modern and democratic, subject to reclassification every ten years. The ranking has, however, been met with a great deal of controversy in recent years, beginning with rumblings that the system has become overly complex and politicized. This was followed by a dizzying plethora of court cases and legal challenges that nearly annulled the classifications of 2006 and 2012, and by the time the 2020s rolled around, many people were wondering how the system would even survive.

The past few years have brought about even more controversy as three of the region’s top-rated Châteaux—Château Angélus, Château Ausone, and Château Cheval-Blanc—opted out of the system and declined to submit applications for the 2022 rankings.

As such, there has been much debate about the future of the Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé. However, now we know: just this morning (September 8, 2022), France’s Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité (INAO) has spoken, and the new classification has been released. Two properties—Château Figeac and Château Pavie—earned the coveted top ranking and are now recognized as Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé A. Note: Château Pavie thus retained its “A” level designation from the previous classifications, and Château Figeac was promoted from the “B” classification it had previously earned.

An additional twelve properties earned the designation of Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé B, while another 71 are hereby recognized as Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé. Click here for a complete listing of the new rankings, as well as further information from the INAO.

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Meet the New SWE Board President: Dr. Margie Ferree Jones, CWE!

Photo of Margie Ferree Jones via https://www.cpp.edu/collins

Photo of Margie Ferree Jones via https://www.cpp.edu/collins

Last August, SWE welcomed in a new president as well as a new Board of Directors. Over the next few weeks, we’ll be posting a series of articles to introduce our new leaders. As the first in the series, we would like to welcome the new president of the Board of Directors, Dr. Margie Ferree Jones, CWE!

Margie Ferree Jones, CWE, says she is excited to serve as the Society of Wine Educators’ new president for the SWE Board of Directors and looks forward to the year ahead with optimism. The Society has evolved in so many important ways during Margie’s years as both a SWE member and as a member of the Board of Directors.

Margie’s first SWE experience was attending the 2001 Annual Conference in Eugene, Oregon.  Eugene is a wonderful college town and the quality of conference education had Margie hooked.  She then began working on her CWE and her Ph.D. in the same year.  It was certainly not a steady or straight path to the CWE as back in the day there was just a recommended reading list.

Margie was elected as a board member in 2009, an exciting time for the Society as new certifications and certificates were being added to the product line up.  In 2019, Margie returned for a second term on the Board and joined the executive committee. Here she had a front row seat to the power skills of the SWE operations team who were so resilient in the era of the pandemic finding ways to cut expenses, identify new members as well as new ways to involve the existing membership.  Dr. Jones stated she is so proud to have been involved with SWE as it has evolved and now offers an incredible suite of study tools to support the journey to certification, stay current, and teach others.

Margie’s career has been as a faculty member at Cal Poly Pomona’s Collins College of Hospitality Management where she has taught some type of beverage course since 1990. She is a professor who is presently serving at the Interim Dean for Cal Poly Pomona’s Collins College.  In addition to her CWE, she is an accredited tutor for the Bordeaux Wine School, has completed the Advanced Level certification through Wines & Spirits Education Trust and the Certified Sommelier credential through the Court of Master Sommeliers Americas.  Margie served as the steward for the Los Angeles International Wine Competition for twenty years and has enjoyed judging at other competitions as well.  She feels fortunate to have had the privilege of teaching wine courses to both undergraduates and the public for over three decades.

Margie’s goals for her time as SWE President are to work with the board and SWE operations team to grow corporate, industry and professional memberships, continue to strengthen SWE’s competitive advantage in the online world, and to find ways to increase membership engagement and SWE’s presence in the marketplace.

Margie encourages members to consider pursuing new certifications and to take advantage of the great online content in the membership portal, and available study tools like digital flashcards, tasting grids, practice test and quizzes, on-line academies, and digital wine map exercises may be used to stay current or to help others learn.

Margie said “the SWE conference content in Indian Wells last month was terrific and it was great to see people together again.  I look forward to catching up with more of you at the Virtual Conference, October 14 to 16, 2022 or during a webinar in the coming year.”

Please join us in welcome Margie Jones, CWE as the new president of the SWE Board of Directors!

Guest Post: Walla Walla Wine Country—the Soils with a Story

A Red Barn in the wheat field of the Palouse, Washington State,Today we have a guest post from Darla Hoffmann, CS, CSW. Darla tells us about her recent trip to the Walla Walla Wine Country with a special focus on the vineyard soils.

While visiting Walla Walla, it’s hard not to glorify the impact of the Missoula Floods. The massive amounts of water that plowed through this part of the earth 12,000 to 18,000 years ago created the rugged mountain formations and current landscapes. It left behind an array of soils from loess, silt, sand, and volcanic in some parts to marine sedimentary and granite in others. This catastrophic event brought such fortune to the present-day terrain and is largely responsible for the beauty and agriculture that now exists.

Walla Walla is approximately a four-hour drive from Boise, Idaho. The drive curves along parts of the Snake River and leads to a dramatic sighting of wheat farms that blanket both sides of the road. An important piece of the economy, I appreciated the views of unharvested wheat for miles. However, we ultimately saw the combine harvesters hard at work and, imagined the auspicious state of affairs for bread, baked goods, and beer.

Photo credit: Darla Hoffman

Photo credit: Darla Hoffman

The Walla Walla region has become one of the Northwest’s most important wine-producing regions. The Walla Walla Valley is a sub-AVA within the Columbia Valley. Two-thirds of the AVA is in Washington and one-third is in Oregon.  The Milton-Freewater Rocks District is a sub-ava within the Walla Walla Valley that resides completely in Oregon. As of 2018, about 56.7% of the vines were grown in Washington and 43.3% in Oregon, with 25.8% of Oregon plantings in The Rocks District. Even though a large amount of fruit comes from the Oregon side, most of the wineries are in Washington with only a handful in Oregon.

The sunny region enjoys cool evening temperatures, with minimal rainfall due to its location east of the Cascade Mountains. These diurnal shifts are responsible for the high acid and alcohol levels developed in the grapes. The climate crisis has been challenging for the region as every year is hotter than the last. Walla Walla’s hot summers and cold winters deem thicker-skinned, hearty grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah preferred plantings. Bordeaux varieties like Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Malbec also thrive in these parts. Although it’s mostly red wine country, Chardonnay and Riesling are some of the whites that have made a name for themselves.

SAMSUNG CSCAs the wine belt indicates, the appropriate latitude for grape growing is anywhere between 30° and 50°. Walla Walla sits at 46°; if you draw a line across the globe, you’d notice 46° is midway between Burgundy and Bordeaux in France. Although Bordeaux has long warm sunny days, it is unlike Walla Walla in that it is influenced by a maritime climate. Nonetheless, what makes these regions similar is that they both owe their soils to the freezing and melting of glaciers of years ago. The deposit of these rocks and gravel provides excellent drainage and helps absorb and radiate heat both at the grapes and into the soils beneath.

Moreover, the Rhone Valley of France, sitting at about 44° latitude on the map just south of Burgundy, has an abundance of rocky soils – like what you will find in the Walla Walla Valley. Syrah, native to the Rhone Valley, adapts well to these rocky soils. The Milton-Freewater Rocks District AVA in Oregon’s Walla Walla Valley is named and known by these infamous rocks. Furthermore, some distinct aromas and flavors come from The Rocks District. Although the climate is mostly consistent all over Walla Walla, wine from this region delivers funkier, smoky, almost gamey notes. These characteristics are commonly found in Syrah from the Rhone Valley as well. Some say this is a by-product of the precious, rocky soils.

Photo Credit: Darla Hoffman

Photo Credit: Darla Hoffman

There are approximately 120 wineries in the Walla Walla region, considered the unofficial capital of Washington Wine Country. Although not as widely sourced for retail nationwide as wine from California, or even the Willamette Valley, Oregon, they are gaining more visibility each year. The Walla Walla Valley is the three-time defending champion (2020-2022) and five-time finalist (2018-2022) in USA Today’s annual 10 best reader’s choice awards for America’s Best Wine Region. A few of my winery recommendations include Va Piano, Canvasback, Caprio Cellars, and Balboa Winery in Washington—along with Ducleaux Cellars, Rôtie Cellars, and Watermill Winery in Oregon.

About the author: Darla Hoffmann is a wine and travel journalist, Certified Sommelier, Certified Specialist of Wine, and owner of About Wine, a wine education and marketing company. Darla is a freelance writer and has her own blog on wine and travel throughout the world. She was the lead writer for AZ UNCORKED/the Arizona Wine Festival and The Arizona Wine Guide. Darla is a current member of the International Food, Wine & Travel Writers Association (IFWTWA), The Society of Wine Educators, and The Wine Century Club. She conducts wine classes and tastings at various venues all over the country and provides sales and marketing support to the wine industry in the form of tasting videos, articles & blogs, events, and staff education, account development, and client relationships. You can contact Darla via her website.

 

Welcome to the World, Gabilan Mountains AVA!

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer (click to enlarge)

On August 15 (2022), the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States announced the approval of the Gabilan Mountains American Viticultural Area (AVA). The new AVA is located entirely within the existing Central Coast AVA, slightly inland from the town of Salinas—and covering portions of Monterey and San Benito Counties.

The Gabilan Mountains AVA surrounds the existing Mt. Harlan and Chalone AVAs and is located adjacent/just slightly west of the San Benito, Paicines, Cienega Valley, and Lime Kiln Valley AVAs. The status of these AVAs will not change.

According to the original petition—written by Parker Allen of Coastview Vineyards and originally submitted in 2018—the distinguishing features of the Gabilan Mountains AVA include its elevation, climate, and soils—as described below.

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    Elevation: The Gabilan Mountains AVA is located in a mountainous region that places it at a significantly higher elevation than the surrounding areas. The average elevation within the AVA is 2,370 feet—above the heavy fog and marine layer that often affects other regions in the vicinity.

  • Climate: The Gabilan Mountains AVA has an overall cool climate. However, as previously mentioned, the Gabilan Mountains AVA has significantly less fog and cloud cover—and therefore more sunshine—than the surrounding areas. It also receives more rainfall by comparison; the area within the Gabilan Mountains AVA receives an average of 17.24 inches of rain per year (with over 12 of these received during the fall and winter months). By contrast, the area to the north receives 14.19 inches per year; the area just to the south receives just over 12 inches annually.
  • Soils: The soils of the Gabilan Mountains AVA are described as moderately coarse in texture, rich in calcium due to high limestone content, and supported by granite bedrock. These quick-draining soils are renowned for their ability to stress the vines during the growing season, resulting in thick-skinned, flavorful grapes. By contrast, the surrounding areas contain more find-to-medium textured alluvial soils, the result of past floods.
Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer (click to enlarge)

When the Gabilan Mountains AVA is brought into force—on September 14, 2022—the total number of AVAs in the United States will be 267; of these, 147 will be in California.

Welcome to the world, Gabilan Mountains AVA!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Save the Date: Road Trip through Galicia!

Road Trip through Galicia COVER GRAPHIC

Save the Date!

Saturday, September 10—10:00 am central time

Road Trip through Galicia

Join us on a tour of Galicia as we drive through the beautiful wine regions of the area—including Rías Baixas, Ribeira Sacra, Ribeiro, Monterrei, and Valdeorras—as well as some of the iconic spirit producers of the region. Of course, a trip to Galicia would not be complete without a visit to the city of Santiago de Compostela (and its amazing Cathedral), and a few bites of Pulpo a la Gallega, a slice of Tarta de Santiago, and a burning bowl of Queimada. Grab your favorite bottle of Rías Baixas Albariño if you’d like to taste-along!

This is a members-only webinar sponsored by the Society of Wine Educators. This event is offered free-of-charge to SWE members, but don’t forget to save your spot! Advance registration is required.

To secure your spot, please contact Jane Nickles at jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

For those that can’t attend the live event, a recorded version will be available on the SWE website/member portal by September 15.

Türkiye to Visit, Turkey to Eat

Map TurkeyThe government of Turkey (the country) has officially changed the English name of the country to Türkiye (tur-key-YAY), the spelling and pronunciation used in the Turkish language. As of June (2022), the United Nations has approved the change and mapmakers everywhere are sure to follow suit.

Wine lovers recognize Türkiye as a transcontinental Eurasian country located in the Caucasus Region. Situated just to the south/southwest of Georgia, Türkiye is among the oldest wine-producing regions of the world.

Türkiye is home to over 600 Indigenous vinifera varieties; of these, at least 60—including Yapıncak (white), Papazkarası (red), Öküzgözü (red), Boğazkere (red), and Çalkarası (red)—are used for commercial wine production. International varieties—to include Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon—are also grown.

Istanbul at Sunset

Istanbul at Sunset

According to the OIV, as of 2018, the country contained 448,000 hectares of vines. The country is consistently among the top ten countries in the world in terms of vineyard acreage. However, Türkiye is also one of the leading global producers of table grapes and raisins—so only a portion of the vineyard crop is used for wine.

Students of distilled spirits will recognize Raki—an anise-flavored spirit as the national drink of Türkiye. When mixed with ice or water, raki turns milky white and due to this color, its sturdy levels of alcohol—many versions are 45% to 50% abv—and a plethora of local legends, raki is often referred to as lion’s milk (aslan sütü). Raki was originally produced from the pomace left over from winemaking. However, when pomace was in short supply, spirits were imported and processed with aniseed. Today, high-quality raki is produced from grapes—primarily of the Sultana and Razaki varieties, both of which are primarily table grapes and likely native to the country.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org