Category Archives: A Sense of Place

The Erdre River at Nantes

There are some people that consider Muscadet to be a rather uninteresting wine. After all (they may argue), it’s old-fashioned, it is a mono-cépage (wine produced from a single grape variety), and the grape itself—Melon de Bourgogne—is rather neutral in aromas and flavors. 

Others would argue that Muscadet—the leading wine of the Loire Valley’s Pays Nantais and produced in four separate appellations including Muscadet AOC, Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine AOC, Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu AOC, and Muscadet Coteaux de la Loire AOC—is complex, delicious, and fascinating. After all, the Pays Nantais is itself somewhat complicated, with a great diversity in its topography, soils, and micro-climates. Combine that with the fact that the wine is often put through sur lie aging, and you have a region that can produce a wine that may show up in a variety of styles from light, citrus, and mineral-scented to rich, yeasty, and full of tropical fruit flavors.

While we’re on the subject of Muscadet, here are a few more fascinating facts about the grape, the wine, and the region:

The Year was 1937: The Muscadet AOC was originally approved on September 23, 1937—making it one of the oldest AOCs for wine in France. The very first wine-specific AOCs were approved on May 15, 1936.

Photo of Lake Grand-Lieu via www.france-voyage.com

La Lac de Grand-Lieu: Lake Grand Lieu (La Lac de Grand-Lieu) is located about 8 miles (14 km) south of the city of Nantes. The lake stretches across 6,000 hectares in winter, when it is considered the largest natural lake in France. Lake Grand Lieu was ceded to the country of France in the early 1980s under the condition that it be declared a national nature reserve. The lake contains four distinct habitats—including open water, a water lily bed, a reed bed and several meadows that flood for six to eight months a year. More than 500 species of plants make their home on the lake, and over 270 species of birds fly through the region each year along their migratory route towards the Atlantic Coast. The area is also home to ducks, geese, otters, and frogs. As the lake is 100% a nature preserve, access is limited and most forms of boating and fishing are not allowed. However, there are 7 members of the traditional fishing community that have been assigned a special authorization to fish during certain times of the year.

Le Muscadet Nouveau est arrivé: Muscadet AOC is allowed to be bottled using the term “Nouveau” or “Primeur.” Muscadet Nouveau AOC may be released on the third Thursday of November (which is, it seems, a very good day to host a wine party).

Map of the Muscadet AOC via the INAO

The Muscadet AOC: The Muscadet AOC is large area, starting just east of the place where the Loire River meets the Atlantic Coast and extending inland for almost 55 miles (90 km) to the western edge of the Anjou District. The majority of the area is located within the Loire-Atlantique Département, but small portions extend into the Maine-et-Loire and Vendée Département as well. Many of the vineyards are located to the south and east of the city of Nantes; others are concentrated along the Loire River (and its famous tributaries, including the Sèvre, the Erdre, and the Maine) as well as the area surrounding Grand Lieu Lake.

Clisson, Gorges, and Le Pallet: The Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine AOC, tucked between the Sèvre and the Maine Rivers close to where they flow northwest in the Loire River, contains three (smallish) sub-regions: Clisson, Gorges, and Le Pallet. These three sub-regions are delineated based on soil types—Clisson is granite-based, Gorges rests on clay and gabbro, and Le Pallet is known for gneiss and quartz. Wines labeled with these sub-regions—often referred to as crus—must be produced from grapes grown on these soils. The three sub-regions also have varying requirements for sur lie aging and total aging before release, and wine are often aged on the lees for two years or more. Click here for a map of the sub-regions of the Muscadet Sevre et Maine AOC, via the INAO.

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Le Grand Hiver:  On January 5, 1709, much of Northern Europe woke up to a deep freeze. The freezing temperatures—which spread from England (where they called it “The Great Frost”) across France (where they called it Le Grand Hiver) and Northern Italy, through Scandinavia and parts of Russia—lasted almost three months. This was considered to be the coldest winter in Europe in over 500 years. During this time, Elizabeth Charlotte, the Duchess of Orléans wrote a letter from her Loire Valley home exclaiming, “Never in my life have I seen a winter such as this one; the wine freezes in bottles.” Not long after The Great Frost, red grapes were outlawed in Nantes and the area became (for a time) a white wine-only region. It was during this time that the cold-hardy Melon de Bourgogne grape came to dominate the vineyards of the Pays Nantais.

References/for more information:

• https://www.france-voyage.com/cities-towns/saint-philbert-de-grand-lieu-15684/lake-grand-lieu-32854.htm
• https://www.france-voyage.com/cities-towns/saint-philbert-de-grand-lieu-15684/lake-grand-lieu-32854.htm
• More on the letters of Liselotte (Elizabeth Charlotte, the Duchess of Orléans): http://rodama1789.blogspot.com/2016/06/the-winter-of-1709-letters-of-liselotte.html
• https://www.newscientist.com/article/mg20126942-100-1709-the-year-that-europe-froze/
• https://www.guildsomm.com/learn/study/w/study-wiki/154/loire-valley#02
• https://www.loirevalley-france.co.uk/outings/nature-strolls/wealth-flourishing-natural-spaces/grand-lieu-lake-vast-bird-reserve
• https://www.winemag.com/2018/06/25/loire-valley-muscadet/

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles, your blog administrator…

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Madrid is a beautiful city, known for world-class dining amazing scenery, and beautiful architecture. If you visit, you’ll want to take in the Prado Museum as well as the Museo Reina Sofia, Retiro Park, the Gran Via, and the Palacio Real (just to get you started).

Madrid is also the name given to one of the seventeen autónomias (autonomous communities) of Spain. The autónomia of Madrid is located somewhat in the middle of the country, bordering Castilla–La Mancha and Castilla y León. The city of Madrid is the capital city of the area and—with a population of over 3 million people—by far the largest.

Logo via: http://www.vinosdemadrid.es/es/

The autónomia of Madrid is also a wine-producing area, and has its own geographical indication: Vinos de Madrid Denominación de Origen (DO). The Vinos de Madrid produces a wide range of wines, including tinto (red), blanco (white), and rosado (rosé). The main authorized grape varieties for these wines are as follows:

• Red and rosé: Tinto Fino (Tempranillo), Garnacha Tinta (Grenache Noir), Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, or Syrah
• White: Malvar, Albillo (Albillo Real), Airén, Viura (Macabeo), Torrontés, Parellada, Moscatel de Grano Menudo (Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains)

Traditional Method sparkling wines—known as Vino Espumoso—are produced as well. Vino Espumoso de Madrid is required to be aged on the lees for a minimum of 9 months; however, the only producer in the region—Bodegas Jesús Díaz e Hijos—ages their bubbly sur lie for at least three years. The grapes allowed in the sparkling wines of Vinos de Madrid DO include the following Albillo (Albillo Real), Torrontés, Viura (Macabeo), Parellada, Malvar, Garnacha Tinta (Grenache Noir) and Tinto Fino (Tempranillo).

Map via www.vinosdemadrid.es

The DO is also approved for the production of a unique wine known as Vino Sobremadre. Vino Sobremadre is produced in both red and white styles, and involves a post-fermentation maceration of 90 to 180 days on the grape skins and lees (the madre).

The Vinos de Madrid DO was first established in 1990. Soon thereafter, three sub-regions— Arganda, Navalcarnero, and San Martín de Valdeiglesias—were approved. On March 20, 2019, the Consejo Regulador announced a new sub-region to be known as El Molar.

The new sub-region of ​​El Molar is the only one located in the north of the Vinos de Madrid region, and currently has approximately 600 hectares (1,500 acres) planted to vine (mainly Granacha Tinta and Malvar). The El Molar region stretches between the River Guadalix and the River Jarama, stretching into the Sierra Norte de Madrid Mountains (part of the Sierra de Guadarrama Range) and the Jarama Valley. Wineries in this area are located just to the north of the city of Madrid—and close enough for a day trip. If you leave by 5 pm, you can be back in the city for dinner at the Mercado de San Miguel.

 References/for more information:

• https://www.elconfidencial.com/espana/madrid/2018-03-02/vinos-madrid-demoninacion-origen-molar-sierra-norte_1528999/
• http://www.vinosdemadrid.es/es/
• http://www.elmolar.org/noticias/lanuevacuartasubzonaelmolaryaesunarealidad/?utm_source=dlvr.it&utm_medium=twitter
• http://www.sieteestrellas.es/index.php/item/1703-denominacion-de-origen-vinos-de-madrid-llega-a-el-molar
• https://elcorreodepozuelo.com/2019/03/21/la-denominacion-de-origen-vinos-de-madrid-se-amplia-por-primera-vez-con-una-cuarta-subzona-en-el-molar-a-la-que-se-incorporan-11-municipios-mas/

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles, your blog administrator

Riegersburg Castle Steiermark

Late last year, the wine world began to hear rumblings of three new Districtus Austriae Controllatus- (DAC-) designated wine-growing regions to be confirmed in the Austrian state of Styria (Steiermark). As of March 3, 2019, we can confirm that these three new DACs— Südsteiermark DAC, Vulkanland Steiermark DAC, and Weststeirmark DAC—have published their Verordnungen (regulations) and are officially in force..

The wines of all three new DAC regions may be produced under the following classifications:

• Gebietswein: Regional wine
• Ortswein:  “Village wine” from certain designated villages
• Riedenwein: Single-vineyard wines from classified estates

Read on for a summary of the new regulations concerning these wine regions.

Vineyards surrounding Riegersburg Castle

Südsteiermark DAC: Sauvignon Blanc, the leading grape of the Südsteiermark, is planted in nearly 20% of the region’s vineyards. However, this is a large growing area—currently there are 6,234 acres/2,563 hectares planted to vine; and Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay are well-represented as well. The area makes for a stunning landscape, with rolling hills punctuated by staggering slopes—some with an incline as steep as 45°. The soils in the flatter regions are primarily marine sediment, while the hills and slopes contain marl and conglomerate soils. The climate during the growing season tends to warm and humid days combined with cool nights, allowing for a long vegetative cycle and complex, concentrated grapes. 

Other details of the Südsteiermark DAC include the following:

• Grapes allowed: Welschriesling, Pinot Blanc, Morillon (Chardonnay), Pinot Gris, Riesling, Muscat, Sauvignon Blanc, and Traminer (Savignin); wine may be single-variety or blends. Grapes must be hand-harvested.
• Required aging: Wines made from Welschriesling grapes may be sold at any time; for all other varieties, the wine may not be sold before March 1 of the year following harvest. Wines designated by a village or single vineyard (Riedenwein) designation may have longer required minimum aging times.
• Wine Styles: Wines are required to be vinified dry and have a stated maximum of 0.4% RS. Wines produced from Riesling or Traminer (Savignin) must display the word “Trocken” (dry) on the label.
• Ortswein: Designated “villages” approved for the production of Ortswein include Kitzeck-Sausal, Eichberg, Leutschach, Gamlitz, and Ehrenhausen.

Uhrtum Clock Tower

Vulkanland Steiermark DAC: As its name implies, Vulkanland Steiermark is rich in volcanic soils often said to help imbue the wines of the region with a distinct character that has been described as “mineral-spice.” The area has 3,765 acres/1,524 ha planted to vines, many of them planted on the slopes of the area’s long-dormant volcanoes, some reaching elevations as high as 1,968 feet/600 meters. The area has a particular affinity for rich, medium-to-full-bodied Sauvignon Blanc, assisted by the warm, dry days and cool, crisp nights typical of the growing season. Klöcher Traminer, known for a rich floral aroma redolent of roses, is sometimes made as a semi-sweet (halbtrocken) wine, and is one of the few wines of the region that may be produced in fully sweet style (labeled as a Prädikatswein).

Other details of the Vulkanland Steiermark DAC include the following:

• Grapes allowed: Welschriesling, Pinot Blanc, Morillon (Chardonnay), Pinot Gris, Riesling, Muscat, Sauvignon Blanc, Traminer (Savignin); wine may be single-variety or blends. Grapes must be hand-harvested.
• Required aging: Wines made from Welschriesling grapes may be sold at any time; for all other varieties, the wine may not be sold before March 1 of the year following harvest. Wines designated by a village or a single vineyard (Riedenwein) designation may have longer required minimum aging times.
• Wine Styles: With a few exceptions (as detailed below), wines are required to be vinified dry and have a stated maximum of 0.4% RS. Wines produced from Riesling or Traminer (Savignin Blanc) must display the word “Trocken” (dry) on the label.
• Ortswein: Designated “villages” approved for the production of Ortswein include Klöch, Straden, St. Peter, Tieschen, St. Anna, Kapfenstein, Riegersburg and Oststeiermark.
• Unique Sweets: Klöcher Traminer, which may be produced in a semi-dry style, or—if labeled as a Prädikatswein—as a sweet wine, may not be sold until April 1 of the year following the harvest.

The Municipality of Puch bei Weiz

Weststeirmark (West Styria) DAC: There are currently about 1,350 acres/546 ha planted to vine and 127 wineries located in Weststeiermark. The terroir of Weststeiermark is described as rolling hills punctuated by steep inclines, many of which house vines at elevations of up to 1,970 feet/600 m. The climate during the growing period is warm and quite humid. The soil of Westeiermark is based on a combination of gneiss and mica-rich schist.

As of the publication of the new Westeiermark DAC, the “Schilcherland DAC” for Schilcher Rosé (approved in October of 2017) is no longer in force—however, the wine continues to be produced as a specialty of the area, labeled as “Schilcher Klassik Westeiermark DAC.” A range of styles of Schilcher Rosé are permitted, include still, frizzante, and fully sparkling.

Other details of the Weststeiermark DAC include the following:

• Grapes allowed: Blauer Wildbacher (Schilcher), Welschriesling, Pinot Blanc, Morillon (Chardonnay), Pinot Gris, Riesling, Muscat, Sauvignon Blanc, and Traminer (Savignin); wine may be single-variety or blends. Grapes must be hand-harvested.
• Required aging: Wines produced from Welschriesling and Blauer Wildbacher (Schilcher) grapes may be sold at any time; for all other varieties, the wine may not be sold before March 1 of the year following harvest. Wines designated by a village or single vineyard (Riedenwein) designation may have longer required minimum aging times.
• Wine Styles: Wines are required to be vinified dry and have a stated maximum of 0.4% RS. Wines produced from Riesling or Traminer (Savignin Blanc) must display the word “Trocken” (dry) on the label.
• Ortswein: Designated “villages” approved for the production of Ortswein include Ligist, Stainz, Deutschlandsberg, and Eibiswald.

References/for more information:

• DAC Regulations – Südsteiermark
• DAC Regulations – Vulkanland Steiermark
• DAC Regulations – Weststeiermark
• https://www.austrianwine.com/our-wine/wine-growing-regions/steiermark-styria/schilcherland/
• https://www.austrianwine.com/our-wine/strategy-for-origin-marketing/dac-districtus-austriae-controllatus/dac-regions/vulkanland-steiermark-dac/
• https://www.austrianwine.com/our-wine/strategy-for-origin-marketing/dac-districtus-austriae-controllatus/dac-regions/suedsteiermark-dac/

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles, your blog administrator…

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The Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade and Tax Bureau (TTB) of the United States has approved a new American Viticultural Area (AVA), to be known as the Upper Hudson AVA. The new AVA will be in effect as of January 7, 2019.

The new AVA covers approximately 1,500 square miles in upstate New York, mainly located to the north and northeast of the city of Albany.  This brings the total number of AVAs in the US to 243.

The petition for the Upper Hudson AVA was originally submitted in July of 2015 by Kathleen and Andrew Weber of Northern Cross Vineyard. The new AVA lies to the north of the Hudson River Region AVA (established in 1982), but it does not overlap the boundaries of any existing AVAs.

The vineyards in the area are currently heavily planted to cold-hardy hybrids including Marquette, Frontenac, La Crescent, La Crosse, Itasca, Prairie Star, and Melody. Many of these grapes were developed at New York’s Cornell University or by Elmer Swenson at University of Minnesota specifically for cold climates. Some vinifera varieties (such as Muscat, Tai, and Cabernet Franc) are planted as well.

Boundary of the Upper Hudson AVA – from the AVA Petition (second boundary amendment) via the TTB

According to the original petition, the Upper Hudson AVA has a distinctly colder climate and shorter growing season than the surrounding areas. This is in large part due to the fact that many of the surrounding areas experience the temperature modifications of a nearby body of water (such as the Great Lakes to the north, and the Hudson River to the south). There is no such moderating influence on much of the area of the Upper Hudson AVA.

The Upper Hudson AVA is currently home to just over a dozen 20 wineries and vineyards—including Northern Cross Vineyard, Altamont Winery, and Hummingbird Hills Winery—and more than 60 acres (24 ha) of vines.

Welcome to the world, Upper Hudson AVA!

References/for more information

• Original Petition Upper Hudson
• Upper Hudson Second boundary amendment
• The Upper Hudson Wine Trail: http://www.uhwt.wine/
• The story of the founding of the Upper Hudson AVA, via the Northern Cross Vineyard blog: http://www.northerncrossvineyard.com/founding-upper-hudson-ava/
• Statute 9.264 in the electronic Code of Federal Regulations
• SWE’s updated map of New York State

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles – SWE’s Director of Education and Certification –  jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Photo via wines of British Columbia: http://winebc.com/

Shuswap, Lillooet, Thompson Valley, and Kootenays…what do these four things have in common?

They are newly-approved geographical indications (GIs) for quality wine in British Columbia (Canada)!  These four areas are all located just north of Washington State,  inland from British Columbia’s coastal wine-producing regions—Vancouver Island, the Gulf Islands, and Fraser Valley—and somewhat to the north and east of the well-established Okanagan Valley and Similkameen Valley GIs.

Here’s a quick look at these four new regions:

Shuswap: Located in and around the shores of Shuswap Lake, the Shuswap GI is located just to the north of the Okanagan Valley in the mountains of the Coast Range (on the map, it’s located to the west of the city of Kamloops). At 50°59´N latitude, it is among the northern-most fine wine producing regions in the world.  This area has been producing wine since the late 1990s, focusing on cool-climate varietals. There are currently about 85 acres of commercial vineyards and ten licensed wineries in the area, including Larch Hills Winery, Baccarta Ridge Winery, Ovino Winery, and the irresistibly-named Edge of the Earth Vineyards. The name Shuswap is derived from the Shuswap (Secwepemc) First Nations people.

Map via Wines of British Columbia: http://winebc.com/

Lillooet: The Lillooet GI is located to the north of both the Fraser Valley and the Okanagan Valley, at just above 50°N in latitude. Despite this fact, however, the area can experience very warm days during the summer—as a matter of fact, this area sometimes clocks some of Canada’s highest temperatures during the summer days. The area is also dry, some years receiving as little as 13 inches (33 m) of rain. This is all due to the rain shadow and impressive gorges of the Coast Mountain Range. However, the high temperatures of the summer days drop steeply down at night, making this area slightly cooler overall than surrounding regions—considered the overall average temperature (hot days + cool nights). Commercial viticulture arrived in Lillooet in 2004, and there are currently 54 acres of vines, as well as one winery, Fort Berens Estate Winery in the area. The name is derived from the St’at’imc First Nations People, also known as the Lillooet Nation.

Thompson Valley: The Thompson Valley GI is located near the town of Kamloops—in and around the spot where the North Thompson River flows into the South Thompson River. Similar to the climate of Lillooet, the area is affected by the rain shadow of the Coast Mountains, and experiences some hot temperatures during the summer (accompanied by a nice diurnal swing). The area’s first commercial winery, Harper’s Trail Estate Winery, opened in 2012. The area boasts over 95 acres of vineyards and a handful of wineries—including Sagewood Winery and Privato Winery. The Thompson River and the Thompson Valley are named for David Thompson, an explorer and surveyor who mapped the entire length of the Columbia River in the early 1800s.

Photo via Wines of British Columbia: http://winebc.com/

Kootenays: The Kootenays area, located along the southern border of British Columbia just to the east of the Okanagan Valley, is sometimes referred to as the “first shores” due to the fact that, according to geologists, the area was the original west coast of North America. The region has long been planted with apple orchards and is known for its many cider, cyser, and mead producers. Grapes have also been planted here, among the rivers, lakes, and waterfalls, since 1995. The Kootenays GI currently has just over 68 acres planted to vines and a handful of wineries, including Ballie-Grohman Estate Winery, Wynnwood Cellars, and Skimmerhorn Winery.   The area is named for the Kootenay River (and Kootenay Mountain), which are themselves named for the Kutenai First Nations people.

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For those of you studying for advanced wine certifications, it might be noted that that British Columba now has a total of 12 GIs (10 GIs and two sub-GIs).   The entire list (as of October 1, 2018) is as follows:

• British Columbia GI
• Fraser Valley GI
• Gulf Islands GI
• Kootenays GI
• Lillooet GI
• Okanagan Valley GI (contains two sub-appellations: Golden Mile Bench GI and Okanagan Falls GI)
• Shuswap GI
• Similkameen Valley GI
• Thomson Valley GI
• Vancouver Island GI

*Keep those flashcards handy, however. There are two more sub-GIs in the pipeline: Skaha Bench and Naramata Bench (both of which are pending sub-GIs of the Okanagan Valley).

References/for more information:

• Wines of British Columbia: http://winebc.com/
• BC Wine Authority: http://www.bcvqa.ca/
• British Columbia – Wines of Marked Quality Regulation – July 27, 2018
• Media Kit Wines of British Columbia

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles – SWE’s Director of Education and Certification –  jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org