Category Archives: A Sense of Place

Guest Post: Lugana—Liquid Gold from Lake Garda

  By admin | September 27, 2018 - 4:47 pm | ,
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The harbor of Desenzano del Garda (on the southwestern edge of Lake Garda)

The harbor of Desenzano del Garda (on the southwestern edge of Lake Garda)

Today we have a guest post authored by Susannah Gold, DipWSET, CSS, CSW. Susannah tells us about the “liquid gold” wines of the Lugana DOC!

Lugana is a name to know. A white wine from the Lake Garda region of Italy made with the Turbiana grape, Lugana is a wine that can be drunk both in the young, fresh style as well as with some age on it.

Lying on the border between the two provinces of Brescia and Verona, the Lugana denomination stretches along the plains of morainic origin to the south of Lake Garda, within the communes of Sirmione, Pozzolengo, Desenzano and Lonato (in Lombardy) and Peschiera del Garda in the Veneto. The denomination is in both Lombardy and the Veneto. One of the only inter-regional DOC wines, some 90% of the vineyard holdings are located in Lombardy.

The “Lugana” Controlled Denomination of Origin (DOC), was instituted in 1967 as the first to be awarded this status in Lombardy as well as one of the very first in Italy as a whole.

Claysoils

Clay soils

The Lugana denomination can essentially be divided up into two zones.  The first—and larger—area is that with firmer clay soils. It is fairly flat and stretches along the hinterland of the lake, including Desenzano, Sirmione, part of the commune of Pozzolengo, and Peschiera. This is the heart of the denomination which produces the most “lacustrine” and mineral style of Lugana.

In the Veneto part of Lugana, there is just one commune, Peschiera del Garda. However, this includes one of the most interesting subzones, that of San Benedetto di Lugana, one of the denomination’s real “crus”.

The second, hillier zone stretches from the famous Monumental Tower of San Martino della Battaglia in two different directions: towards Pozzolengo and towards Lonato. Here the clays are sandier; the hills are more undulating and gentle, with altitudes of no more than 130 meters; the soils are more morainic (especially towards Lonato), with a considerable presence of gravel; the wines are less mineral-drivenl, more acidulous and voluminous.

In Lugana, the microclimate—influenced positively by the temperate breezes from Lake Garda—is mild and fairly constant, with little difference between day- and night-time temperatures. This is a “climatic cradle” that is perfect for highlighting the peculiarities of a special grape like Turbiana

Luca Formentini of Podere Selva Capuzza

Luca Formentini of Podere Selva Capuzza

Never heard of Turbiana? Not a surprise. It only grows in this area. Related to Trebbiano di Soave—a variety that is quite close geographically speaking, but whose vineyards lie on a different type of soil, of volcanic rather than morainic origin—the Turbiana grape was considered for a long time to be related to (if not actually confused with) the Verdicchio grape variety from Castelli di Jesi in the Marche Region. However, recent studies have shown that it is different from that cultivar in its aromatic characteristics, as well as from a phenological, agronomical, and oenological point of view.

Less high-yielding than most of the other Trebbianos of Italy, Turbiana is a grape that has a medium-sized, compact bunch, with a long, pyramidal shape; the pulp is juicy and loose, slightly acidulous, and neutral in flavor. It is sensitive to rot, oidium and peronospora. When vinified on its own, it shows great versatility both in the classic still versions and in sparkling ones.

Even if the production regulations allow for the presence of up to 10% of complementary white varieties (as long as they are non-aromatic), nowadays the zone’s producers tend to make their Luganas exclusively from Turbiana. Five different styles are permitted: standard Lugana, Superiore, Riserva, Vendemmia Tardiva (Late Harvest) and Spumante (Sparkling).

Susannah Gold

Susannah Gold

The Lugana production is limited, only about 16 million bottles per year. Much of it is exported to Germany and the U.K but a fair portion arrives in the U.S. as well. See if your local retailer carries some, you will be richly rewarded with this versatile and easy to pronounce wine.

Susannah Gold is the founder of Vigneto Communications, a New York City-based marketing and communications agency focusing on the food & wine industry.

Susannah is one of only a handful of non-Italians in the Associazione Italiana Sommeliers (AIS) and has received her Diploma of Wine & Spirits (DWS) from the Wine & Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a prestigious British program. She has also completed the Certified Specialist in Wine (CSW) and Certified Specialist of Spirits (CSS) exams at the Society of Wine Educators, a school in the United States and has completed her certification as a Spanish Wine Educator at the Wine Academy of Spain. Susannah is also a highly-rated, frequent speaker at SWE Conferences and we look forward to having her present a webinar on the wines of Lugana for SWE sometime very soon!

 

 

Sekt gets Serious!

  By admin | August 9, 2018 - 11:31 am | ,
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https://www.vdp.de/en/home/

https://www.vdp.de/en/home/

Sekt gets Serious!

Last month (July 2018), the Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter (Association of German Prädikat Wine Estates, or VDP) has established a set of classifications—along with some strict regulations—regarding Sekt (sparkling wines) produced by its member estates.

The four levels of Sekt Classification mirror the already-established levels of the VDP pyramid for still wine and include (in increasing order of quality) VDP Gutswein, VDP Ortswein, VDP Erste Lage, and VDP Grosse Lage. All VDP Sekt must be harvested by hand, pressed via whole cluster pressing, and made using the traditional method (second fermentation in the bottle) of sparkling wine production. Additional regulations include the following:

  • VDP Sekt Gutswein: Grapes must stem from Gutswein-designated estate vineyards, and the wine must be aged on the lees for a minimum of 15 months.
  • VDP Sekt Ortswein: Grapes must stem from Ortswein-designated estate vineyards, and the wine must be aged on the lees for a minimum of 15 months.
  • VDP Sekt Erste Lage: Grapes must stem from Erste Lage-designated estate vineyards, and the wine must be aged on the lees for a minimum of 36 months.
  • VDP Sekt Grosse Lage: Grapes must stem from Grosse Lage-designated estate vineyards, and the wine must be aged on the lees for a minimum of 36 months.

According to the website of the VDP, the focus of this new quality strategy is “good sekt from the beginning”. Further details regarding the qualifications for each level of the VDP Sekt classifications may be found in the official documentation of the VDP Sekt Statute (see below).

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Welcome to the World, Terres du Midi PGI!

  By admin | July 9, 2018 - 1:05 pm | ,
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The town of St. Chinian (Hérault Department)

The town of St. Chinian (Hérault Department)

As of July 5, 2018, the National Committee for Protected Geographical Indications of the Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité (INAO) approved a new PGI for France:  Terres du Midi PGI. The new PGI is approved for still, blended wines—in red, white, and rosé—produced in the Gard, Hérault, Aude and Pyrénées-Orientales departments. The new PGI is approved for use as of the 2018 vintage.

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With the approval of the Terres du Midi PGI, there are now a total of 75 wine-related PGIs in France. There are no plans, at this time, to eliminate any of the overlapping or the departmental IGPs of the area, which is centered on the Languedoc & Roussillon areas of France.

References/for further information:

Welcome to the world, Dahlonega Plateau AVA!

  By admin | July 3, 2018 - 1:43 pm | ,
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Map via the TTB website, as found in the original petition, submitted on behalf of the Vineyard and Winery Operators of the Dahlonega Region of Northern Georgia (April 2015).

Map via the TTB website, as found in the original petition, submitted on behalf of the Vineyard and Winery Operators of the Dahlonega Region of Northern Georgia (April 2015).

Welcome to the world, Dahlonega Plateau AVA! As of June 29, 2018 the TTB has approved the Dahlonega Plateau AVA, located in Lumpkin and White Counties in the state of Georgia. The new AVA will be effective as of July 30, 2018—and this brings the total number of AVAs in the US to 242.

The petition for the Dahlonega Plateau AVA was originally submitted in April, 2015 on behalf of the Vineyard and Winery Operators of Northern Georgia. The namesake Dahlonega Plateau is a long, narrow plateau located in the northern foothills of the Georgia Piedmont. (The Piedmont [in the eastern United States] is an elevated section of land stretching from New Jersey to central Alabama, tucked between the Atlantic Coastal Plain and the Appalachian and Blue Ridge Mountains).

Georgia’ Dahlonega Plateau covers most of Lumpkin, Dawson, White, Pickens, and Cherokee Counties; however, the AVA only covers the northeast section of the plateau. The Dahlonega Plateau AVA is about 133 square miles in size, and is includes (at last count) 7 wineries and 8 commercial vineyards totally just over 110 acres of planted vines. Area wineries include Cavender Creek Vineyards, Three Sisters Vineyards and Winery, Wolf Mountain Vineyards and Winery, and Accent Cellars (they also make cider!).

Map of the US Piedmont via USGS

Map of the US Piedmont via USGS

According to the petition, the distinguishing features of the proposed Dahlonega Plateau AVA include the topography, described as gently rolling hilltops separated by wide valleys are an average elevation of 1,554 feet (474 m) above sea level. This warm and sunshine-drenched area is both well-suited for viticulture and distinct from the surrounding, more heavily wooded (and shaded) area.

The climate also differentiates the region within the AVA, as the area atop the Dahlonega Plateau is warmer than the area to its west and south, as the  cool air from the higher elevations sinks down and settles in the area below, creating a risk of frost damage in the lower elevations. The majority of the area within the AVA has a growing season between 190 and 200 days and is classified in the intermediate range of the Winkler scale as Zone 3 and 4. Annual rainfall is approximately 62 inches per year, including 17 inches during winter.

During the open comment phase of the application process, the TTB received just one comment. The commenter noted that the Dahlonega Plateau is a ‘‘gorgeous mountain region’’ that has ‘‘unique wine-growing characteristics’’ that qualify it as an AVA. Welcome to the world, Dahlonega AVA!

References/for more information:

 

Guest Author: Discovering Montsant

  By admin | June 6, 2018 - 8:16 pm | ,
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Today we have a post from guest blogger Kryss Speegle. Kryss tells us about a recent trip to the Montstant DO. Read on for some insight into the history, the wines, and the region…but be warned this article is going to make you want to run and book a ticket to Spain!

 Marta Carbonell of Josep Grau Viticultor speaks with a quiet and engaging matter-of-factness: “We like high acidity. We love fruit. We hate oak.” Speaking for her own wines, she could easily be describing the Montsant style, and after a three-day visit, sponsored by Wines of Montsant, I’m ready to make this my mantra as well.

Unlike its flashy neighbor Priorat, where the famous llicorella slate dominates the landscape, Montsant is a patchwork of limestone, chalk and sand as well as slate, and elevations ranging from 50 to 700 meters; the wines are fresh and powerful with ferrous minerality and a core of intense fruit.

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Wine has been a significant product of Catalonia since at least the 6th to 8th centuries BCE, though vine plantings increased significantly after the establishment of the monastery of Poblet. Italian and Middle Eastern varieties were eventually replaced by primarily with Carinyena (Carignan, also known by its Catalan name Samsó) and Garnatxa (Grenache); a treasury of old vines remains today and red grapes account for 95% of production. Though Garnatxa has slightly higher production, Carinyena is also a star player alone or in blends and a firm rebuke to those who view it primarily as a high-yielding blender. The 100% Carinenya from Cellers Sant Rafel is fresh and even elegant. The minute plantings of white grapes are mostly Garnatxa Blanca and Macabeo, which make wines with a perfumed lift and flavors of baked apple, lemon curd and hawthorn.

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah exist in small plantings but are silent partners at best. A happy exception to this is the use of Syrah for rosé wines; in a single sitting, two lovely examples, one from Coca i Fito (fresh and restrained) and another from Celler Rondanelles (intensely fruity) remind me that rosé complements grilled octopus, braised artichokes, potato chips and just about everything else.

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Previously dominated by workhorse co-operatives, Montsant became a Denominación de Origin (DO) distinct from Tarragona in 2001 and within three years had 26 members across its 1,800 hectares, a testament to producers’ commitment to the region. Some are Priorat vintners looking for a bargain while others are locals who bucked the historical exodus to Barcelona. It’s an uplifting narrative for anyone accustomed to hearing that the world’s great wine regions are all supersaturated with vines or prohibitively expensive.

As the driver in front of us repeatedly stops to point at various vines, our guide from the DO claims that nearly everyone in the area has a few inherited plots — “Once poor farmers, now proud viticulturalists.” The region is also home to a thriving polyculture; marcona almonds, hazelnuts, cherries, and peaches are commercially grown and the slopes are dotted with wildflowers and resinous herbs.

Co-ops are still in the game but, as elsewhere in Europe, are redefining the old label with exciting and pleasurable wines. At Celler de Capçanes, a traditional co-operative found a successful niche in kosher wine production; the Peraj Ha’abib is the mainstay of this line and is lovely. The real excitement, though, is their “La Nit de les garnatxes” collection exploring the diversity of Montsant’s terroirs. Four wines of 100% Garnatxa, each representing one of the region’s four soil types, are presented in some of the  cleverest  packaging I’ve seen yet, wrapped in color-coded comics explaining the soil’s effect on the wine. The wines themselves do an amazing job telling the story of Montsant by drawing out its shades of difference—by turns refined and sinewy, generously fruited and earthy.

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Nearly half of Montsant’s wines are exported with many available in U.S. retailers. For those who want a closer look, the DO’s commercial center is Falset, a self-sufficient town of 2,800 and a good base for exploring. To discover from a distance, see these sites:

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About the Author: Kryss Speegle works in bulk sales, supplying wines and spirits to customers throughout the United States and around the world. Previously she was O’Neill’s Director of Winemaking, where she managed the company’s extensive varietal wine programs and led a talented team of winemakers.

Prior to O’Neill, Kryss held winemaking and enologist roles at Kenwood and Ravenswood. She has also worked for wineries in Napa, Mendocino, Germany and New Zealand. Kryss has served as a past judge for the San Francisco Chronicle and West Coast wine competitions and has taught wine courses at Santa Rosa Junior College and Napa Valley Wine Academy.

Kryss received a Bachelor’s degree from University of Virginia and a graduate degree in Food Science/Enology from University of California at Davis. While at Davis, Kryss conducted sensory research for Dr. Ann Noble, creator of the Wine Aroma Wheel.

When she’s not in the vineyard or in the production facility, Kryss enjoys cooking, traveling and spending time with her family.

Photo credits: Kryss Speegle

Welcome to the World, Rosalia DAC!

  By admin | April 21, 2018 - 8:57 am | ,
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Photo via: www.austrianwine.com

Photo via: www.austrianwine.com

The Austrian Wine Marketing Board has announced the approval and registration of a new wine region to be known as the Rosalia Districtus Austriae Controllatus (DAC). The area of Rosalia was previously classified as a Grosslage (large collective vineyard site) and is located in Burgenland, south of the Leithaberg area.

Rosalia is named for the Rosaliengebirge—the Rosalia Mountain Range—that comprises a portion of the Alpine Foothills located on the border between Burgenland and Lower Austria. The Rosalia area is situated on the eastern slopes of the Rosalia mountains and includes the valley of the Wulka River, the political district of Mattersburg, and the famous Forchtenstein Castle. Vineyards are situated in the rolling hills at elevations up to 2,640 feet (750 m).

Three styles of wine are approved under the Rosalia DAC:

  • Rosalia DAC:  Approved for dry, red, wines based on Blaufränkisch or Zweigelt grapes. These wines are required to contain a minimum of 12% abv and a maximum of 0.4% residual sugar. The wines may be oak-aged, but oak contact is not required. The flavor profile should be “complex, aromatic, and show finesse, fruit, and spiciness.”
  • Rosalia Reserve DAC: This designation is also approved for dry, red, wines produced using either Blaufränkisch or Zweigelt; however, Reserve DAC wines require a minimum alcohol content of 13% abv. Rosalia Reserva DAC wines are allowed to list a single-vineyard (Ried) designation on the label.
  • Rosalia DAC Rosé: This designation is approved for dry, rosé wines using one or more “quality” grape varieties (as approved for Qualitätswein in Austria).  Rosalia DAC Rosé must contain less than 0.4% residual sugar and may list a specific vineyard (Ried) on the label; however, a specific grape variety (or varieties) is NOT allowed to be stated on the label. The wine is intended to be aromatic with the scent of red berries and show “fresh, fruity, and spicy” flavors.
Map via: www.austrianwine.com

Map via: www.austrianwine.com

Rosalia is the 11th area in Austria to be recognized as a DAC wine production region. We can expect to see the Rosalia DAC designation on bottles and labels with the release of wines from the 2017 vintage. Welcome to the world, Rosalia DAC!

References/for more information:

Are you interested in being a guest blogger or a guest SWEbinar presenter for SWE?  Click here for more information!

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles—your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

 

Prestige de Loire Sparkling Wines

  By admin | March 7, 2018 - 9:20 pm | ,
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At last month’s Vinovision show in Paris, the InterLoire organization (Interprofession des Vins du Val de Loire) announced a new quality designation known as Prestige de Loire. The Prestige de Loire title is designed to recognize sparkling wines of the Loire Valley that meet certain specifications indicating ultra-high quality and Loire Valley-specific typicity.

Like the Grand Eminent designations allowed for Crémant de Bourgogne, Prestige de Loire is not a new AOC nor a revision to an existing AOC, but rather a branded designation allowed for use on the sparkling wines produced under the existing AOCs of Anjou, Crémant de Loire, Saumur, and Vouvray. Wines certified as Prestige de Loire will be designated by a gold crown emblem affixed to the neck of the bottle. The gold crown is a nod to the Loire Valley’s reputation as a “royal river,” earned through centuries of serving as the homeland of many royal families—and royal châteaux—of Europe.

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The specifications for attaining the Prestige de Loire designation are an interesting study in the parameters of high-quality sparkling wine production in the Loire Valley. The requirements include the following:

  • Only fully sparkling white wines produced under the existing requirements of the Crémant de Loire, Saumur, Vouvray, Anjou, and Touraine AOCs are eligible. These include the use of the Traditional Method of sparkling wine production as well as a minimum of 9 months aging on the lees and a total of 12 months of aging in the bottle. The total aging requirement for Prestige de Loire wines is raised to 24 months.
  • The allowed grape varieties are limited to Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir; single-varietal and any combination in a blended wine is permitted. Red grapes must be vinified in the style of a white wine.
  • The wines must have 12 g/L or less of sugar (in some cases this may be increased to 15 g/L or less). As such, these wines must be designated (or equivalent to) Brut Nature, Extra Brut, or Brut levels of sweetness.
  • Wine estates using the Prestige de Loire designation must strive to be certified as Haute Valeur Environnementale (“High Environmental Value”) within 5 years of the use of the mark.
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In order to earn the Prestige de Loire designation, wines must be approved by a five-member tasting panel. Wines are eligible to earn a maximum of five points on each of five specific aspects of quality. In order to qualify, a wine must earn a minimum of 15 points (out of a possible 25). The five aspects are as follows:

  • Aromatic intensity
  • Bubble finesse
  • Balance
  • Richness
  • Finish/length

Interestingly enough, wines are considered disqualified if two or more members of the tasting panel note any of the following faults in the wine:

  • Reduced
  • Coarse bubble texture
  • Geranium fault
  • Mold aroma/flavor
  • Overly dry/harsh
  • Acescence
  • Overly herbaceous

Some of these wines, as announced at Vinovision, are already on the market in Europe and should find their way to other parts of the world in short time. Have you seen one?

References/for more information:

Bailey’s and Beyond: The Irish Cream PGI

  By admin | February 28, 2018 - 11:04 am | ,
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Everyone I know loves Bailey’s Irish Cream. In coffee, on the rocks, or in a fanciful cocktail such as the Mudslide, Girl Scout Cookie, or Nutty Irishman—it is just plain delicious.

Bailey’s Irish Cream was the first Irish cream liqueur on the market.  It was created in the early 1970’s by Gilbey’s of Ireland, a large distillery borne out of a gin distillery founded in 1857 by Sir Walter Gilbey.  The name “Bailey’s” was inspired by the name of a local restaurant owned by John Chesterman, who gave permission to use the name. The distillery—Gilbey’s of Ireland—eventually became a division of the even-larger International Distillers & Vintners, which eventually merged in with Diageo (the current producer of Bailey’s).

The Bailey’s brand of Irish cream liqueur may have been the first, and it may be the best-known, but it is certainly not the only Irish cream on the liquor store shelf—other brands include Carolan’s, Cremór, Kerrygold, Molly’s, and St. Brendan’s. Give one of these others a try, and you may find you fall in love with Irish cream liqueur all over again.

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As of 2015, Irish Cream is a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) and recognized as a unique product of Ireland. Irish Cream may be produced anywhere in Ireland (including the Republic of Ireland and the country of Northern Ireland), and may not be produced anywhere else.

Irish Cream is classified as a liqueur under the rules of the European Union, and as such must have a minimum alcohol by volume of 15% and a minimum of 100 g/L of sugar (approximately equivalent to 10%).  Irish cream liqueurs vary in terms of alcohol and sugar, but many are in the range of 17% to 20% alcohol by volume and 20% to 25% sugar.

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In addition to meeting the EU standards for liqueurs, the PGI for Irish Cream requires the following:

  • Irish Dairy Cream: Irish Cream liqueur must contain a minimum of 10% milk fat (which does not sound very appealing), all of which must be from cream produced from milk produced in Ireland. Ireland is known for the quality of its dairy products, and many top-bred Irish dairy cows create the “cream” in Irish cream.
  • Irish Whiskey: Irish cream is required to contain at least 1% by volume Irish whiskey. The remainder of the alcohol content may be from any type of alcohol of agricultural origin (and in most cases is likely to be neutral spirits).
  • Specific Production Techniques: Ireland claims to have created the technique of creating shelf-stable cream liqueurs. Two techniques are allowed for use in the production of Irish Cream. One technique—known as the single-stage method—involves mixing together the spirits, sugar, cream, flavorings and emulsifiers and sending the entire batch through a process of homogenization until the average particle size of the cream globule is reduced to less than 5 microns, preferably less than 2 microns. This will allow the liqueur to remain emulsified. The second method—known as the two-stage method—involves homogenizing the cream (to the same micron-size standard) first and then mixing it into the remainder of the ingredients (sprits, sugars, flavorings, and emulsifiers).
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There are few specifications as to the stabilizers, colorings, emulsifiers, and flavorings that may be used in Irish cream liqueur beyond those typical for food safety, additives, and advertising. While many flavors are produced—Strawberries-and-Cream! Pumpkin spice! Espresso! Salted Caramel! Chocolate-Cherry!—the original Bailey’s Irish Cream Liqueur is reported to be flavored with Irish whiskey, Irish Cream, and chocolate or cocoa. The formulas are typically considered closely guarded secrets, but other flavors may include a bit of honey, caramel, vanilla, almond, coffee, or cinnamon.

The production requirements and product analysis do not make the delicious and delectable Irish Cream liqueur sound very appealing, so we’ll end with a few tasting notes. For starters, here is the official tasting note for Bailey’s Irish Cream: “the perfect marriage of fresh, premium Irish dairy cream, the finest spirits, aged Irish whiskey, and a unique chocolate blend.”  Other often-used descriptions include velvety, creamy, smooth notes of toffee, burnished gold, and honeyed memories of the Emerald Isle. That’s more like it.

References/for more information:

 

 

Guest Blogger: Reasons to Drink Wines from Uruguay… on site, if you can!

  By admin | February 22, 2018 - 9:53 am | ,
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Today we have a post from guest blogger Lucia Volk, CWE. Lucia tells us about a recent trip to Uruguay, where she toured the wineries and tasted the local wine, which in this case happened to include some world-class Tannat! 

When I watch sports games, I tend to root for the underdog. Drinking wine, I feel drawn to bottles that are lesser known.  While I congratulate estates and regions that enjoy high sales volumes because everyone agrees they are great, I truly admire winemakers who toil knowing that their wines will not easily find a space on a wine list or store shelf, no matter how good and how genuine the bottles they produce.

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Uruguay remains an underdog in the South American wine world, despite the quantum leap forward in quality wine production in the Canelones and Maldonado regions over the past decades. You probably remember the last time you had an Argentinian Malbec or Chilean Cabernet, but when did you pour your last glass of Uruguayan Tannat?

I recently had the opportunity to travel to Uruguay, and I can tell you right off the bat that everything that the travel literature says about how friendly and welcoming the Uruguayans are is true.  Moreover, winemakers I met were philosophical, (com)passionate, perfectionist, with a hint of non-conformist and quirky thrown into the mix—not every day do you encounter a wild hog kept as a vineyard pet, as you do at Los Nadies in Santa Lucia, Uruguay.

Canelones, the main wine region outside the capital, features a mildly hilly terrain crisscrossed by rivers, and inhabited by colorful birds. Agriculture makes up a significant part of the country’s GDP.  If you have recently eaten top quality grass-fed steak, it may have been raised in Uruguay.

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Winemakers search for poorer soils in the windier, coastal areas to plant their vines. Blessed with abundant sunshine and nightly cooling breezes from the ocean, their grapes ripen slowly and maintain a refreshing acidity. In most years, rain is sufficient and occurs at the right time, allowing for dry farming. Recurring humidity requires the application of copper/sulfur sprays during the growing season, but pesticides or fertilizers are generally not needed. Contrary to Argentina and Chile, most wineries in Uruguay are small to moderately-sized and family-owned. Chile’s Concha y Toro produces more than all of Uruguay put together on the 11,000ha it owns.

So if you want a hand-crafted South American red, sustainably farmed, your best bet is a bottle from Uruguay. Their specialty is the robust, red Tannat grape, imported by Basque migrants at the end of the 20th century.  While the European version of Tannat tends to live up to its tannic name, requiring extended aging before it shows its full potential, Uruguay’s more moderate climate and modern cellar practices—cold soaking and cool maceration—yield a softer version of Tannat, one that can be enjoyed quite young.

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In a still, dry, single-varietal Tannat you can expect to find tannins and acidity, for sure, alongside plum and blackberry, plus secondary aromas of French and American oak.  It is the perfect complement to grass-fed Uruguayan beef, fresh off the grill. Single varietal Tannat is varied, as I learned at a comparison tasting at Deicas Winery in Juanico. While every bottle—Mar de Piedras, Valle de los Manatiales, and Domaine Castelar—had a peppery-spicy-smoky component, there were clear differences between grippier, earthier wines and more velvety, vanilla-and-plum versions. The 2013 flagship Massimo Deicas Tannat was densely layered with aromas and flavors, a wine that will make you a believer.

Tannat’s grippiness can be tamed.  Frequently, you find it blended with Merlot (Equilibrio, Los Nadies; Gran Guarda, Stagnari) and the less tannic [!!] Cabernet Sauvignon (Rio Colorado, de Lucca). Less frequently, it is blended with Syrah (de Lucca), Zinfandel (Artesana, the only Uruguayan Zin producer so far) or Viognier (Alto de la Ballena).  You can reduce the tannin load by fermenting Tannat entirely in stainless steel (Bouza, sin barrica). You can submit Tannat grapes to carbonic maceration and produce a berry basket of aromas easy on the palate (Don Prospero, Pizzorno). You can turn Tannat into a refreshing, bright red, raspberry rosé (Tannat Rosado, Artesana).  You can even produce an acid-driven base wine, add more sugar, and re-ferment, hand-riddling it into a deeply colored, dry sparkling wine (Brut Nature, Gabriel Pisano).

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You can also dry the grapes—think Recioto and Amarone—and fortify Tannat to produce a purple-colored, spicy chocolate, peppery blackberry sweet desert wine (EtXe Oneko, Gustavo & Gabriel Pisano). And of course you can distill Tannat into a version of grappa (Bernardi). The options are endless!  It was fun to witness the inter-generational discussions between Gabriel and his uncle Daniel Pisano, or Agostina and her father Reinaldo de Lucca about new ways to produce or market Uruguayan wines. Family wine-making means preserving traditions, yet also moving along with the times.

Tannat is not only tasty, it is also good for you!  Polyphenols, compounds found in the skins and seeds of grapes, are responsible for most of the wine’s aromas. Among polyphenols are procyanidins, which have been shown to inhibit cholesterol plaque in blood vessels. Tannat contains almost four times as many polyphenols as Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon.  Turns out that the tannin that gives the grape its name takes care of your heart!

Of course grapes other than Tannat grow in Uruguay, especially Bordeaux and Northern Rhone varietals. While most of Uruguay’s wine is red, whites are also produced.  I was able to try remarkable Riesling, Albariño, Viognier, Torrontés, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay.  A recently established winery that is generating significant international buzz is Garzón in the eastern Maldonado region.  Conceived and financed by Argentine billionaire Alejandro Bulgheroni in consultation with Alberto Antonini, Garzón covers nearly 10,000 acres and uses the most up-to-date vinification technologies. Garzón’s Tannat Reserva 2015 made the Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines of 2017, the first Uruguayan wine to be thus honored.

Reinaldo and Agostina De Lucca’s photograph on shelf in tasting room, next to a vineyard map and Che…

Reinaldo and Agostina De Lucca’s photograph on shelf in tasting room, next to a vineyard map and Che…

If you are eager to explore Uruguay, I recommend reading the Uruguay chapter in Evan Goldstein’s Wines of South America, and studying www.uruguaywinetours.com, which lists all the wineries that are open to visitors.  The website makes it easy to contact bodegas ahead of time and arrange a tour. One thing to keep in mind is that Uruguay enforces a “zero tolerance law” that forbids drinking-and-driving. The solution is to hire a car for the day, or take a cab or ride share to where you want to go. Most Canelones wineries are 20-40 min outside the capital. If you want to visit Maldonado wineries, plan to spend a night in the lovely beach town of Punta del Este.

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Beyond wine, Uruguay offers natural beauty. It has an amazing coastline and expansive interior. Montevideo features museums, galleries, and restaurants. Its rambla, nearly 14 miles of uninterrupted sidewalk along the Rio de la Plata, bustles with locals, who drink their mate tea or other beverage of choice, waiting for the sunset.  You can pick up a friendly game of basketball or soccer in parks along the rambla or chat with cheerful locals walking their dogs. And do not forget to stop by the Montevideo Wine Experience, the friendliest wine bar on earth, on your way out of town, to sample local wineries you did not have time to visit.

If Uruguay is a bit too far for you right now, ask your local store to stock Tannat or your favorite restaurant to include one on its wine list, if they don’t do it already. Uruguayan wines have grit and personality, and are made by people who love what they do. They stand proudly apart from the wines of their better known neighbors—underdogs, for the time being, among South American wines.

Lucia-150x150Photos and story by Lucia Volk, CWE. Lucia runs MindfulVine, a Wine Education business in the Bay Area that specializes in tailored, at-home tastings to promote a greater enjoyment of wine. She grew up in Germany, where her grandfather started a Riesling winery. She knows what it takes to work those steep slate slopes by hand, and decided to start promoting Riesling and other European wines after obtaining a PhD in Anthropology in the United States, and working briefly in wine sales.

She now gets to have the best of two worlds and teach about global politics and cultures, as well as the many wonderful wine regions across the world. She is also working–slowly–on a book about the lesser known German Anbaugebiete.

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Asti: Simple, Fruity, Delicious (and yet so Complicated)

  By admin | January 10, 2018 - 7:36 am | ,
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http://www.astidocg.it/en/prodotto-gallery/

http://www.astidocg.it/en/prodotto-gallery/

Every wine lover—whether we admit it or not—has enjoyed a glass of Asti Spumante (which the wine cognoscenti will refer to simply as “Asti”) or Moscato d’Asti with lunch, brunch, or on New Year’s Eve.

It is predictable and quite correct—in most cases—to dismiss these sweet wines as “easy to love,” “great for beginners,” or “just a simple little quaff.” However, if we dig into the disciplinare of the Asti DOCG, we see that a range of wines are allowed to be produced under the designation—including wines from three sub-zones, late harvest wines, and bottle-fermented wines—all of which have probably never been referred to as “simple.” Add to these complications the fact that the rules of the DOCG were recently changed to allow the production of dry wines under the Asti DOCG—and we’ll see that perhaps we need to change our minds about Asti.

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For starters in breaking down the wines of Asti, we can determine that all of the wines produced under the Asti DOCG (located in Piedmont, Italy) are sparkling or slightly so, and are, in all cases, produced using 100% Moscato Bianco (more commonly known [outside of Italy] as Muscat blanc à Petits Grains). That’s pretty must where the similarities end. The differences are discussed below, after a short discussion on sweetness.

How Sweet it is: There is no simple statement of required levels of sweetness for the various versions of Asti. The appellation’s disciplinare does, however, state a required level of alcolometrico volumico potenziale—potential alcohol volume (the abv that would be achieved if all of the fermentable sugar was allowed to convert to alcohol)—in other words, a required ripeness at harvest for each style of wine. In addition, there is a required level of alcolometrico volumico effettivo—the actual alcohol by volume stated for each wine. By doing a bit of math, we can determine the difference between each wine’s required potential alcohol and required actual alcohol —which (using more math) will reveal the approximate amount of sugar allowed or required to be in the finished wine. For the purposes of this discussion, we’ll use the following formula: Brix X 0.55 = Potential Alcohol (or, Potential Alcohol/.55 = Brix).  Note: This calculation is at best a generality, but it is a good-enough starting point for a discussion on the character of these wines.

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Asti DOCG: Asti DOCG is sometimes referred to as Asti Spumante; both terms are acceptable for use under the DOCG. Asti/Asti Spumante DOCG is produced via second fermentation in pressurized tanks (autoclaves) using the production method commonly referred to as the Charmat Method—known in Piedmont as the Metodo Marinotti.  By EU definition, spumante means “sparkling” and as such, the minimum pressure of the dissolved bubbles of Asti is 3 atm. For these wines, the required minimum potential alcohol is 11.5%. Until recently, the required actual abv was 6.0% to 9.5%; a bit of math tells us that the (previsouly) required minimum residual sugar was around 3.6% (making these wines demi-sec or dolce [semi-sweet to sweet]). However…

New! Asti Secco: In August of 2017, the regulations were revised, and the maximum required actual alcohol (formerly 9.5%) was deleted. This means that Asti DOCG may now be produced in a dry style.  The only change in the actual rules appears to be the deletion of the 9.5% maximum actual abv requirement, but the Asti DOCG Consortium is encouraging the use of the term “secco” for wines with a 11% minimum abv (actual), and the use of the term “dolce” for the traditional, sweet wines. (The revision in the disciplinare only applies to Asti/Asti Spumante DOCG and does not affect the wines described below.)

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Asti Metodo Classico DOCG: These wines, which may also be referred to as Asti Spumante Metodo Classico DOCG, are required to be produced using the Traditional (bottle-fermented) Method of sparkling wine production and must be aged on the lees for a minimum of nine months. The required minimum sweetness (based on a required potential minimum alcohol of 12% and a required actual alcohol of 6% to 8%) is approximately 7% residual sugar and are therefore all of these wines are sweet (dolce).

Moscato d’Asti DOCG: This is the beloved, sweet sipper that has recently become so popular (although experienced wine lovers see this as a prime example of “everything old is new again” popularity). Moscato d’Asti is made using the “partial fermentation” method of sparkling wine production (also—somewhat obviously—also known as the “Asti method”). This means these wines are made by one pressurized fermentation (only) that is interrupted while there is just a bit of bubble (a maximum of 2 atm) built up in addition to a good deal of sweetness still left in the wine.  The numbers of 11% minimum potential alcohol and 4.5% to 6.5% acquired alcohol means that these wines are always sweet with at least 8% residual sugar (to use generalized terms).

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Moscato d’Asti Vendemmia Tardiva DOCG: This late-harvest version of Moscato d’Asti requires a minimum potential alcohol of 14% and a acquired alcohol of 11%, meaning these wines will have at least (approximately) 5% residual sugar. This wine is not allowed to be chaptalized and must be aged for at least one year from the date of harvest.

Sub-regions: As for the sub-regions of the Asti DOCG, they are only approved for a few of the wines and (of course) they have a few of their own requirements:

  • Canelli: This sub-zone (located in the center section of the DOCG) is only approved for Moscato d’Asti, and the wines using this designation must have a potential alcohol of 12% abv (slightly higher than the general requirement of 11%).
  • Santa Vittoira d’Alba: This sub-zone (located to the west of the central DOCG zone) is approved for Moscato d’Asti and Moscato d’Asti Vendemmia Tardiva.  Moscato d’Asti Santa Vittoira d’Alba must have a potential alcohol of 12%. The vendemmia tardiva wines have quite a few unique requirements, including: a potential alcohol content of 15% and an actual minimum of 12% abv, a minimum aging of two years (beginning with January 1 of the year after the vintage year), and partial-drying of the grapes (post-harvest).
  • Strevi: Like the Canelli sub-zone, Strevi (located on the eastern edge of the DOCG) is approved for Moscato d’Asti only, and the wines using this designation must have a potential alcohol of 12% abv (slightly higher than the general requirement of 11%).

Asti….like we said, so fun, fruity, simple, and (sometimes) sweet….and yet again, so complex.

References/for more information: