Category Archives: Guest Blogger

Guest Post: Wine, Vocation, Authenticity

  By admin | April 27, 2019 - 9:20 am |
Leave a comment

Today we have a guest post written by Reverend Paul Bailey discussing wine, vocation, and authenticity. Read on for some excellent insight into all of the above!

.

.

A Champagne does not, so far as I know, spend its life pining to become Madeira; even though both are superb wines.  And the people who make these wines clearly don’t get them mixed up. What they do is work with the wines in such a way that they become most fully what they are intended to be, not what something else is supposed to be.

A person making Madeira wants to make the best Madeira possible, I hope.  Winemakers want their fine wines to most winsomely express their terroir, their heritage, their nature as a particular grape.  And, if they are just making a wine to glug without thinking about it, to make the truest one of those.  What a winemaker wants to do, I hope, is encourage the raw product, the grape, to assume its authentic vocation, to become what the grape really wants to be in fullness, as it becomes wine.

The whole process teaches respect, for the grape, and for the people working with it, and for the earth that makes it all possible.  Authentic vocation is simply doing what you’re supposed to be doing, being who you are supposed to be, hearing one’s deepest interior calling and responding.

Van Gogh's Starry Night - Google Art Project/Public Domain

Van Gogh’s Starry Night – Google Art Project/Public Domain

There are a number of factors to an authentic vocation, but two seem to me prominent.  First, that what you are doing, who you are, is consistent with your personality, your talents, your skills, your hopes and dreams. 

I remember once standing awestruck in front of Van Gogh’s celebrated painting Starry Night and it became so clear that whatever else may have been going on with the artist, he was responding to the talents he had, the skills, the vision, the insistent longing to be a painter.  Troubled as Van Gogh was, he was nevertheless in that sense in harmony with himself, because he wasn’t working against himself, doing something that was at odds with what he longed for or could do. He wasn’t trying to do or to be something that wasn’t him.

Working in the wine world is a fairly esoteric occupation, and I imagine as a result that most people are involved in it because they want to be and are good at what they do.  But, who knows?   So just to ask:  in terms of occupation and just your personality, do you sense that you are living the life you are supposed to live?  Is your work consistent with your personality?  Is your work fun?  Does it satisfy you, meet your deepest longings? Does it perhaps leave you feeling tired and frustrated? What could that be trying to tell you? 

.

.

And the second piece of authentic vocation (whether occupational and personal) for me is that it contains an element of aspiration, that there is something about it that draws you to reach for the stars, to strive, so that whatever it is you are doing, you are not settling, but are always reaching to be better.  Absolute perfection may not exist of course, but that should in no wise discourage us from being on the pilgrimage toward it, because the striving, the careful attention, the learning, the longing, is how great wine is made, and how great people are made.

Winemakers seem to be people that aim high, experiment, adjust, dream. Does your work have you reaching upward?  Conversely, have you fallen into settled habits and don’t desire anything better?  People with authentic vocations seem to be always thirsting, expanding their reach, seeking something greater. Are you wanting to be better; what, in your work or in your life, are you striving for?

What about you? Is your vocation authentic?

Guest post written by Reverend Paul Bailey

 

Guest Post: The (R)evolution of the Basque Country’s Txakolina

  By admin | February 26, 2019 - 9:44 am | , ,
1 Comment
Celebrating Txakolina with dance in the town of Bakio

Celebrating Txakolina with dance in the town of Bakio

Today we have a guest post from Kerri Lesh, CSW and and Ph.d candidate. Kerri tells us about her search for Txakolina and other adventures in wine and the Basque Country of Spain. Kerri will be presenting a webinar on Txakolina and Basque wine on Saturday, March 9th at 10:00 am central time. 

Now advertised as a “Culinary Nation,” the Basque Country of Spain (Hegoalde) has changed quite a bit over the last few decades. Known in the native language Euskara as Euskadi, this part of Basque Country has evolved from a nation associated with terrorism, to one of gastronomic fame. Touting more Michelin-star restaurants per capita than anywhere in the world, cities like San Sebastián/Donostia have become increasingly attractive to foreigners searching for sandy beaches as well as great food and wine. This city is located in the province of Gipuzkoa, which extends to what we know as the French border and the rest of the Basque Country (Iparralde). To the west of this city is Bilbao—located in the province of Biscay/Bizkaia—and joining the southern borders of these two provinces is Álava/Araba, with Vitoria-Gasteiz as its capital. These three provinces not only make up the Basque Autonomous Community, but each contains a Denominación de Origen (DO) for Txakolina: Getariako Txakolina, Bizkaiko Txakolina, and Arabako Txakolina.

My first walk among the vineyards around Getaria

My first walk among the vineyards around Getaria

Just as the Basque Country is transforming, so is Txakolina. This wine—known as either Txakoli or Txakolina—has changed considerably over the last few hundred years. Its debated etymological roots, stemming from “etxeko ain,” meaning “enough for the home,” link this wine to the Basque language and local production for the home. As I interviewed people while living in the Basque Country, I found this iconic wine had not always had such a positive reputation. Older generations had a much different perspective on it than the younger generations of Basques and the tourists who have only had access to Txakoli for the last decade or so.

Production methods have changed the taste of Txakoli both abroad and closer to home. Today, there are three different styles of the wine—white, rosé, and red. However, well before designations of origin protected Txakolina, an advertisement for “Chacoli de Ezcaba” (the Castilian spelling) indicates that a wine with the same name was once produced in the province of Navarra with Garnacha. This would have been much different from the Txakolina produced today in the three DOs.

A vineyard of Hondarribi Zuri near where I lived outside of Elorrio withi Udalaitz Mountain in the background

A vineyard of Hondarribi Zuri near where I lived outside of Elorrio withi Udalaitz Mountain in the background

Cultural tastes play a role in the Txakolina available to consumers. While a rosé version of the wine made by producers such as Ameztoi and Txomin Etxaniz can commonly be found in the United States, drinking the rosé version is not part of local Basque culture. Most producers depend largely on the white grape Hondaribbi Zuri to make white wine, exporting rosé, which typically incorporates the red grape Hondaribbi Beltza, to countries such as the United States. Over time, producers such as Doniene Gorrondona have even created a version of Txakolina using the Traditional Method as well as red.

In addition to helping with a 2017 harvest in the Basque Country, I also had the opportunity to work a harvest in Casablanca, Chile. One weekend after the harvest was complete, a few colleagues from the winery and I got in a car in search of the Chilean Chacoli. I had read that Chacoli could be found near the Chilean city of Doñihue.

Discovering Chacoli in Chile

Discovering Chacoli in Chile

It took some digging around to find this wine, which included asking locals traveling on horseback and knocking on doors. After hours of driving around, we found one bodega and a couple of people who claimed to make it, mostly for local consumption. It tasted nothing like the Txakolina made in the Basque Country, which made sense considering the use of different grape varietals and production methods. Most of the producers also referred to their chacoli as chicha, a beverage typically from Latin America that is fermented from fruits or grains. While living in the Basque Country in 2017, I received news that a group of Chilean producers were revitalizing the production of Chacoli as a local artisanal wine that would typically be sold at local festivals and celebrations. Unlike its Basque ancestor, this version does not have a geographical or designation of origin.

It will be interesting to see how this wine will continue to change across the Basque DOs. and in Chilean artisanal production. Today in the Basque Country, the scale of Txakolina has evolved from being just “enough for the home,” to now being sold across the globe. It is also no longer solely advertised as a young white wine to be drunk soon after it is bottled, and can be enjoyed in its many forms over time whether it is white, rosé, or red; slightly effervescent, still, or sparkling; young or aged. As tourism continues to increase in the Basque Country, in turn opening up these winegrowing regions to globalized tastes, what will Txakolina look like in another 20 years?

Kerri Lesh, CSW and Ph.d candidate, will present a webinar on Txakolina and the Basque Country on Saturday, March 6th at 10:00 am central time. Click here f or more information on the March 9th webinar.

For more posts and interviews from Kerri Lesh, please visit http://www.kerrilesh.com/

Photo credits: Kerri Lesh, Cameron Watson

 

Evolution of an Annual Wine Event: Reflections of a Veteran Volunteer

  By admin | December 26, 2018 - 1:46 pm |
1 Comment
T.

.

Today we have a guest post from a frequent contributor that we know as Candi, CSW. Read on to see how Candi learned to navigate the risks and reap the rewards of volunteering on the wine and food festival circuit. 

For well over a decade, the major metropolitan city nearby has been the site of a wine festival. The key event is a Saturday afternoon tasting geared toward the public, adults only. The main tasting is nicely done. There are various foods to sample, wine tastings which can be geared to the chosen cuisine, hydration stations, even volunteers handing out bottled water and steering those departing to safe transportation alternatives. In summary, a wine and foodie’s paradise.

Over the past four years, an additional event has been part of the overall experience. The target audience for this occasion is trade and wine connoisseurs. Seminars detailing wine regions, marketing, advanced certifications, and other management topics such as inventory and on-premise wine programs are offered. This experience culminates in a Trade Tasting the evening prior to the main festival event. In a nutshell, a professional and geek’s “heaven”.

.

.

2018 marked my fifth year as a volunteer. An anniversary! It has been an honor and a learning experience. My core career was in a very different industry. In 2014, I realized there was now time to pursue a true passion. Vino! So I prepared, enjoyed the study process, took a deep breath and tested for my CSW. Despite the naysayers who noted my lack of industry experience and the perceived low pass rate. I had nothing to lose. It was a quest. I went for it. I prevailed.

What I didn’t realize at the time was how highly regarded and universally recognized a CSW certification is within the hospitality industry. The credential opened the doors for me as a Somm volunteer. In fact, at my first volunteering experience, I met a Master Sommelier. We were instructed to wear all appropriate pins. Okay. The MS took one look and said “love your pin”. I confessed it was “newly minted”; turns out he is also a CWE.

Upon reflection, I believe there are many similarities between other service industries and hospitality. I’ve found that many of my core career skills have been transferable. In my experience, the key universal characteristics are as follows.

.

.

Credentialing, determination, comebacks, and striving. As noted above, industry credentials are valued. I’ve encountered many people determined to obtain certifications and to advance. Sometimes they fail; shoot, I’ve failed before. But I’d like to believe that I still learn from such experiences. And persistence matters. I’ve met multiple Advanced Sommeliers, for example, that keep going for the red pin. They put themselves out there and don’t give up. This determination is honored.

Diversity reigns. I am, ahem, one of the more mature volunteers. It seems that most of the Somm volunteers are 30- and 40-somethings. A few younger, a few older. And I’ve read multiple mainstream articles this year about the persistent, overall problem of age discrimination. Not in my hospitality industry experience. A willingness to learn, to pitch in with whatever needs to be done, business-appropriate appearance, a positive attitude and dedication. Those attributes are respected and, in my opinion, have nothing to do with age. I have never experienced any form of bias. Period.

.

.

Events that embrace a continuum continue to thrive and to grow. What began as a wine- and food- only event has evolved into wine, beer, spirits, food service, management, and credentialing experience. The reality is that many on-premise establishments cannot afford a wine-only skill set in today’s economy. A more comprehensive range of knowledge, skills, and attributes improves likelihood of job opportunities and advancement. Seems to apply to many work settings, doesn’t it?

Reaching out, networking and relationships are critical. Had I not had a beginning network to contact before my first opportunity, no one would have known I had a credential and wanted to help. My first opportunity was well-supervised and geared toward a small, discreet event. Who cares? I would have taken any experience offered. As I continue to volunteer each and every year, I’ve been assigned more complex tasks. And, more importantly, additional opportunities. Last year, I was able to taste wines pre-seminar with two Advanced Sommeliers and tested my very basic skills. Just by asking to observe them I was invited to the party! Unforgettable to this geek. And each year becomes a reunion of sorts with the more experienced Somms. It’s now to the point where this introvert actually enjoys connecting and even hugs!

.

.

Details, details details. Many of us have attended wine tasting seminars. The infamous white paper placements. Each holding 4, 6, 8 10, even more wine samples. You may know the drill. Between seminars, we volunteers set up those rooms, and then pour the wines. On every such occasion for me, I’ve poured alongside general volunteers. We need those general volunteers. But they often lack a Somm volunteer’s eye for detail. In my case, attention to detail was an absolute requirement for my original career. It is natural for me to go from placemat to placemat when we are supposedly “done”. I check for missed pours; this is a special hazard for whites. Every single time, I find multiple missed pours. Back to the room lead. Request the bottle. Fix the situation. Even as attendees begin to fill the room. A quick smile and a comment “we want to make sure you can enjoy all of the wines”. Doesn’t phase me. Always a positive with the room lead.

Risk taking and risk management. Most organizations value risk-taking and people who stretch/extend. Striving to learn new skills and to get credentialed are just two examples of risk-taking. And risk management programs are also seemingly universal. Reaching out as an unknown to volunteer as a Somm after obtaining my CSW was a risk. It worked. Personal risk management clearly applies when I am tasting. Whether in a seminar, pre-seminar, trade tasting, whatever. I took a course in safe serving of alcohol before my first volunteer experience and have maintained that certification (yes, another credential). Useful when serving others, essential for my personal safety.

.

.

Got a spare minute? Buff, polish, repeat. There is always what I call a “war room” near each group of seminar rooms. This is similar to staff rooms in other industries, where routine, as-time-permits tasks can be completed. The war room is for volunteers only (proper credentials required, thank you very much). That’s where all pre- and post-seminar activity occurs. Delivery of wines and related items, and delivery of wine glasses fresh from the commercial dishwashers. Everyone buffs and polishes glasses. Everyone, no matter how far up the chain of command.

My routine has become get my event credentials, report to the war room, check in with highest-ranking person there, and start buffing and polishing. The workload is always there. I get plenty of practice. Sometimes, I am assigned elsewhere when needed. This year, it just so happened that buff/polish was needed most during my shift. And for more than an hour after my shift. I kept going. Another quest. And the willingness to be flexible and get the job done was duly noted. Not that I expect people to keep score, but it builds credibility.

.

.

Spontaneity and fun. Who hasn’t had some comic relief in the workplace? Maintaining a sense of humor and being open to new experiences is healthy and keeps us coming back, I think. This year, at a networking lunch, I found a table with strangers. Ended up seated between two young brothers from Hungary. They were there to promote Furmint, the currently-in-vogue dry white. They questioned me about America; I did the same about Hungary. I’ve never been to Europe, much less Hungary. We learned from each other; what an enjoyable experience!

It has been such a joy, such a privilege, so see the event grow, thrive, evolve. And to note my skills doing the same thing. I can wait until next year. Because, in the meantime, I have new wine ideas to pursue. I’d never had Franciacorta, for example.

Cin-Cin, Here’s to Learning! Cheers! Happy Holidays!

Guest Post: What exactly is a natural wine?

  By admin | October 11, 2018 - 4:17 pm |
3 Comments
.

.

Today we have a guest post authored by Roger Bohmrich, MW. Roger is one of the most respected wine professionals in the country, as well as one of our all-time favorite SWE conference speakers. Read on while Roger untangles the confusion surrounding natural wine! 

What exactly is a natural wine, you may ask? Are wines with this moniker officially regulated by governments? Are they required to meet certain universal standards? How do they differ from – and are they superior to – organic or biodynamic wines? These and other salient questions frustrate inquiring wine drinkers. The fundamental problem is that, for now, the exact definition is both elusive and variable; consequently, winemakers, proponents and private associations have stepped into the void, minting their own rules. There is a degree of commonality, but not enough to come away with a precise characterization of natural wine, a term which is being applied to a myriad of styles from “orange” wines made in amphora to far more conventional iterations.

Undoubtedly, there is implicit appeal in the idea. Many of us, or at least a significant minority, tend to favor the pure and unadulterated in what we eat and drink. Wine is late to the natural party, however, and follows in the footsteps of the food industry. The word “natural” on all manner of foods from cereals to condiments does, studies show, speak to many U.S. consumers. On the other hand, few realize these supposedly unvarnished edibles may contain numerous artificial ingredients owing to lax or non-existent regulations. This should be a cautionary tale for those who willingly opt to apply “natural” to wines. They might have been wiser to choose another term – if indeed these wines share a definable profile and deliver added value to consumers.

.

.

Consumer Reports, an independent nonprofit organization, conducted tests on a variety of food products displaying the term natural on their packaging. Their analysis revealed that Del Monte Fruits Naturals contain preservatives potassium sorbate and sodium benzoate. Kraft Natural Cheese has cellulose powder and an antifungal, natamycin. Alexia Sweet Potato Fries, which claim to be “All Natural,” contain xanthum gum. “We have long argued,” Consumer Reports writes, “that consumers should not be duped by ‘natural’ labels that currently aren’t backed by meaningful standards.” The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has not put forward a rigorous, comprehensive set of rules governing the use of natural with respect to foods. In 2016, they sought comments from the public and a ruling may be forthcoming. The FDA says they have interpreted the term “natural” to mean products “with nothing artificial or synthetic.” As Consumer Reports points out, that may not be the case in practice. Moreover, FDA admits that they do not consider production methods – a major oversight. Similarly, the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) has left the door wide open when it comes to alcoholic beverages. Their longstanding Ruling 85-4 stipulates that the designation “natural” with reference to wine is allowed provided that there is no added alcohol or brandy. Is it unreasonable to believe that wine drinkers are entitled to more than this?

Current definitions of natural wine provide a big tent to practitioners. Importers Jenny & François in New York, who are specialists in this niche, say on their website: “What we call natural wines are wines made with the least possible use of chemicals, additives and overly technological procedures.” That seems reasonable as far as it goes, yet it does not translate to an identity clearly distinct from organic or biodynamic wines. Alice Feiring, an American writer who supports the movement, offers an even more flexible concept she calls “natural enough.” This represents a pragmatic concession to the intervention every winemaker must undertake at some point. Tim Patterson, an insightful winemaking consultant, wrote in Wines & Vines that the challenge in finding a coherent definition “stems ultimately from the fact that no wine on earth is entirely natural—and yet every wine is, at its core, natural.”

.

.

All this leaves us wondering about the genesis of the natural wine movement. Some say it was spawned in Beaujolais in the 1980s, when a small band which became known as the “gang of five,” headed by Marcel Lapierre, chose to pursue a non-interventionist winemaking regime. They were inspired by Jules Chauvet, a winemaker and researcher, who aspired to return to the hands-off practices of old. This group became known above all for their sans soufre approach: no sulfur dioxide was added. This by itself was a radical choice since sulfites were (and remain) the universal additive to protect wine from spoilage.

Curiously, though, today’s so-called natural wines are not, except in rare cases, as free of sulfites as possible. Limits on SO2 vary considerably within the natural wine community. France’s Association des Vins Naturels (AVN) says their members must agree not to add sulfites, yet they accept limits of 20 mg/l for red wines and 30 mg/l for whites (that is, above the naturally occurring level). Italy’s Association VinNatur apparently does not set limits but claims wines from their members range from less than 10 mg/l to 70 mg/l in total SO2, “with a few exceptions.” The Consorzio Vini Veri (CVV) sets a cap of 80 mg/l for dry wines and 100 mg/l for sweet wines. Raw Wine, a fair orchestrated by natural wine champion Isabelle Legeron MW, accepts at most 70 mg/l for all colors and styles. This limit was adopted by Decanter Magazine when they assembled 122 natural wines for review (May 2017). In other words, consumers seeking a sulfite-free drinking experience – or as close to that as possible – need to look elsewhere. One option would be wines labeled “USDA Organic,” which do not allow sulfites to be added and are permitted to contain a maximum of 10 mg/l, the level typically created as a byproduct of fermentation.

.

.

The natural movement is struggling with – or, in some cases, trying to avoid – the issues surrounding terminology and definition. Isabelle Legeron chose as the subtitle of her book, Natural Wine, “An introduction to organic and biodynamic wines made naturally.” Does this shine a bright light on the true identity of natural wine, or simply reinforce the confusion with other methods? She recognizes that “there is, as yet, no official accreditation” for natural wines, “which leaves the term open to abuse and thus to criticism.” In the face of the limitations, she admits in all honesty that “perhaps ‘natural wine’ is not the best term to use.” Her passionate conviction is nonetheless expressed in the following statement: “…people all over the world have chosen to use the term ‘natural,’ in the face of all the alternatives, to describe healthily grown, nature-friendly, low-intervention wines that truly express their place of origin.” It seems unfair to quarrel with this idealistic depiction. The commitment at the heart of the cause to unsullied wine with authentic character is an attractive attribute; the devil is in the detail.

Among the intellectual leaders of the movement, there seems to be a consensus that, to qualify as a natural wine, the vineyards should be farmed in accordance with organic or biodynamic methods. Raw Wine has proposed a charter with this stipulation along with other criteria: a manual harvest, no added yeasts, no interference with the malolactic conversion, no additives (except sulfites), no sterile filtration or pasteurization. Reverse osmosis and the spinning cone (to remove alcohol) are disallowed. The AVN essentially agrees with these rules. The CVV stands apart, saying their rules “are even more restrictive” than organic or biodynamic. Overall, natural appears to straddle these alternate designations, depending on the country, but lacks rigorous independent certification or official regulation. This raises an obvious question: What precisely does natural wine offer that is not already delivered by certified organic and biodynamic wines?

.

.

Leaving technical nuances aside, there is as well an enormous range of styles which enthusiasts place under the natural umbrella. This only adds to the challenge of coherent messaging. The diversity is reflected in the standouts in Decanter’s tasting of natural wines. There are orange-colored whites fermented with the skins such as La Stoppa “Ageno” from Emilia-Romagna made from Malvasia di Candia Aromatica, Decanter’s top wine. (Interestingly, the proprietor, Elena Pantaleoni, prefers artisanal to natural to describe her wines.) There are many other grape varieties well out of the mainstream including Vitovska and Pinela. But the selections are not limited to the obscure and encompass familiar grapes and appellations. There is a Muscadet from Domaine des Cognettes, a Riesling Kastelberg from Marc Kreydenweiss in Alsace, and a Chinon from Domaine de L’R. These producers are organic or biodynamic and may refer to making wine as “naturally as possible,” but they do not advertise that they are producing “natural wine” per se. Evidently, the winemakers themselves recognize the ambiguities.

When some professionals hear the term natural, they think of faulty, cloudy, quirky wines they may have tasted. It appears, however, that the category has been extended well beyond the oddities which were the leading edge of the movement; now, natural embraces wines which, in most respects, look and taste like mainstream counterparts. Putting bad winemaking aside, there is nothing wrong with the spirit behind natural wines. The quest for wines free of chemicals and heavy-handed manipulation is admirable and should be encouraged. As for the adventurous amphora-made examples with unusual flavor profiles, drinkers can approach each iteration on a take-it-or-leave-it basis. Circling back to the initial questions, we have to conclude that natural as a descriptor for wine means different things to different people. To gain a larger audience, exponents must work toward a universal definition and prove how the label differs from organic and biodynamic. Until then, the concept is likely to remain an ideal in search of an identity.

Roger Bohmrich, MW

Roger Bohmrich, MW

About the author: Roger Bohmrich, MW has enjoyed a fulfilling career in the wine trade and is currently an independent consultant, educator, writer and competition judge. He has worked for two national importers, last as Senior VP-Marketing of Frederick Wildman & Sons. More recently, he was Managing Partner of Millesima USA, the U.S. affiliate of Europe’s leader in direct sales of fine wines to consumers. Roger became one of the first U.S. Masters of Wine in 1993 and led the formation of the Institute of Masters of Wine (North America), where he served as its first President. He has appeared often as a speaker at wine festivals and conferences, and his articles and writing have been published in the Journal of Wine Research, Wine Business Monthly, Santé, Wines & Vines, and other publications. Roger has traveled extensively around the world of wine, and in recent years he has judged competitions in Argentina, Turkey and China.

.

.

This article was first published on the Wine Knowledge section of the website of Wine Auction Prices—the Bluebook of Wine Values. It is re-published here with the permission of Edward Brooks, Managing Director of Grande Marque Management (owner of Wine Auction Prices). Click here to visit their site, which includes a wealth of wine information (and a podcast version of this article as well). Some of our favorites include “Unraveling the Tangled Web of Terroir,” “Bordeaux Classifications—do they have Relevance and Value,” and “A Story of Mystery and Romance: the Family Tree of Famous Grape Varieties.” The next essay to be published will be “Premox – Is the Threat Over?” – we are looking forward to it!

References/for more information:

  • Feiring, A. Naked Wine: Letting Grapes Do What Comes Naturally. Da Capo Press, 2011.
  • Legeron, I. Natural Wine: An Introduction to Organic and Biodynamic Wines Made Naturally. CICO Books, 2014.
  • “Natural” on Food Labeling. www.fda.gov/Food, November 11, 2017.
  • Patterson, T. Inquiring Winemaker. Natural, Natural Enough, And Sort of Natural. Wines & Vines, December 2011.
  • Rock, A. Peeling Back the ‘Natural’ Food Label. www.consumerreports.org, January 29, 2016.
  • Woolf, S. It’s only natural: the 31 wines you need to try. Decanter, May 2017.
  • www.jennyandfrancois.com

Guest Post: Lugana—Liquid Gold from Lake Garda

  By admin | September 27, 2018 - 4:47 pm | ,
Leave a comment
The harbor of Desenzano del Garda (on the southwestern edge of Lake Garda)

The harbor of Desenzano del Garda (on the southwestern edge of Lake Garda)

Today we have a guest post authored by Susannah Gold, DipWSET, CSS, CSW. Susannah tells us about the “liquid gold” wines of the Lugana DOC!

Lugana is a name to know. A white wine from the Lake Garda region of Italy made with the Turbiana grape, Lugana is a wine that can be drunk both in the young, fresh style as well as with some age on it.

Lying on the border between the two provinces of Brescia and Verona, the Lugana denomination stretches along the plains of morainic origin to the south of Lake Garda, within the communes of Sirmione, Pozzolengo, Desenzano and Lonato (in Lombardy) and Peschiera del Garda in the Veneto. The denomination is in both Lombardy and the Veneto. One of the only inter-regional DOC wines, some 90% of the vineyard holdings are located in Lombardy.

The “Lugana” Controlled Denomination of Origin (DOC), was instituted in 1967 as the first to be awarded this status in Lombardy as well as one of the very first in Italy as a whole.

Claysoils

Clay soils

The Lugana denomination can essentially be divided up into two zones.  The first—and larger—area is that with firmer clay soils. It is fairly flat and stretches along the hinterland of the lake, including Desenzano, Sirmione, part of the commune of Pozzolengo, and Peschiera. This is the heart of the denomination which produces the most “lacustrine” and mineral style of Lugana.

In the Veneto part of Lugana, there is just one commune, Peschiera del Garda. However, this includes one of the most interesting subzones, that of San Benedetto di Lugana, one of the denomination’s real “crus”.

The second, hillier zone stretches from the famous Monumental Tower of San Martino della Battaglia in two different directions: towards Pozzolengo and towards Lonato. Here the clays are sandier; the hills are more undulating and gentle, with altitudes of no more than 130 meters; the soils are more morainic (especially towards Lonato), with a considerable presence of gravel; the wines are less mineral-drivenl, more acidulous and voluminous.

In Lugana, the microclimate—influenced positively by the temperate breezes from Lake Garda—is mild and fairly constant, with little difference between day- and night-time temperatures. This is a “climatic cradle” that is perfect for highlighting the peculiarities of a special grape like Turbiana

Luca Formentini of Podere Selva Capuzza

Luca Formentini of Podere Selva Capuzza

Never heard of Turbiana? Not a surprise. It only grows in this area. Related to Trebbiano di Soave—a variety that is quite close geographically speaking, but whose vineyards lie on a different type of soil, of volcanic rather than morainic origin—the Turbiana grape was considered for a long time to be related to (if not actually confused with) the Verdicchio grape variety from Castelli di Jesi in the Marche Region. However, recent studies have shown that it is different from that cultivar in its aromatic characteristics, as well as from a phenological, agronomical, and oenological point of view.

Less high-yielding than most of the other Trebbianos of Italy, Turbiana is a grape that has a medium-sized, compact bunch, with a long, pyramidal shape; the pulp is juicy and loose, slightly acidulous, and neutral in flavor. It is sensitive to rot, oidium and peronospora. When vinified on its own, it shows great versatility both in the classic still versions and in sparkling ones.

Even if the production regulations allow for the presence of up to 10% of complementary white varieties (as long as they are non-aromatic), nowadays the zone’s producers tend to make their Luganas exclusively from Turbiana. Five different styles are permitted: standard Lugana, Superiore, Riserva, Vendemmia Tardiva (Late Harvest) and Spumante (Sparkling).

Susannah Gold

Susannah Gold

The Lugana production is limited, only about 16 million bottles per year. Much of it is exported to Germany and the U.K but a fair portion arrives in the U.S. as well. See if your local retailer carries some, you will be richly rewarded with this versatile and easy to pronounce wine.

Susannah Gold is the founder of Vigneto Communications, a New York City-based marketing and communications agency focusing on the food & wine industry.

Susannah is one of only a handful of non-Italians in the Associazione Italiana Sommeliers (AIS) and has received her Diploma of Wine & Spirits (DWS) from the Wine & Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a prestigious British program. She has also completed the Certified Specialist in Wine (CSW) and Certified Specialist of Spirits (CSS) exams at the Society of Wine Educators, a school in the United States and has completed her certification as a Spanish Wine Educator at the Wine Academy of Spain. Susannah is also a highly-rated, frequent speaker at SWE Conferences and we look forward to having her present a webinar on the wines of Lugana for SWE sometime very soon!

 

 

Attitude Adjustment: Worthy-Cause Wine

  By admin | September 23, 2018 - 12:41 pm |
Leave a comment
Table set for an event party or wedding reception

.

Today we have a guest post from a frequent contributor that we know as Candi, CSW. Read on to see how Candi experienced an attitude-adjusting evening (all with the wine in mind, of course).

Recently I had some exposure to the not-for-profit benefit sphere. My prior experience was confined to what I saw in the back of “brain vacation” magazines. I admit to mostly negative, preconceived notions about benefits. Garden clubs, lawn clubs, sororities, any organization for those with too much time on their hands.

No one has ever accused me of the glamour often associated with such events. I’m a former Midwesterner whose wine acquisition strategy is frugal, sometimes even cheap. But what happens when a wine geek finds a benefit-related attraction for a worthy cause or two?

I learned about a benefit event a few months ago from a fellow wine geek. The event was only about an hour from our home, has a 10+ year track record, and the cause is related to my volunteer work. There is significant overlap between “my” charity and the “benefit” charity. There was an attraction…and I felt strangely drawn to attend.

.

.

As in many benefits, there was a silent auction. Never been there, never done that. More than 100 “lots”, which I learned are items or a group of items. In this situation, about 90% of the lots were wine. Other lots were wine-related.

The event sponsor demonstrated a strong sense of commitment to the cause and ethics in the preceding months. Admission tickets were obtained via payment directly to the charity. All auction lots were donated. All auction proceeds would go directly to the charity. I searched appropriate charity-screening websites. The cause and organization passed all tests.

I was hooked. My husband graciously agreed to go, and to be my trusty designated driver. Did I mention that donated wine and food would be served during the event? And that some of the vintners who donated would attend? Sounded even better!

Tickets purchased, well before the event sold out. Which it did. As it has for years.

Then came the anticipatory fun. We were given a list of the silent auction items, which continued to increase as the event drew near. I began picking out my target lots, having no idea what to expect. Same drill for target wines to taste. Got to at least have a plan as a starting point.

The big day arrived. A bright, sunny, beautiful day. All afternoon, we were plied with more fine wine and fine food than I had ever seen. A very high-class operation, featuring many small-production wines with which I had no experience. An emphasis on several of my favorite varietals: Pinot Noir, Syrah, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon. With the auction set to end about an hour before the event.

The crowd was about evenly divided between wine geeks and folks who simply appreciate wine. Usually one geek and one non-geek per couple. We mingled. We tasted. There were many opportunities to sample, to chat with vintners, to learn more about the charity from their development staff and clients, and to share feedback with fellow geeks. I began to feel a strong sense of community. A strong bond, almost like, for that day, we were family.

.

.

In short, it was extraordinary. The experience does not rise to the level of an epiphany, but certainly changed my perspective. This development was not the result of the wine talking. I have enough experience at wine events to employ food strategically, to hydrate, and to sip and spit. My critical thinking was clear.

As the time allocated for the silent auction drew to a close, I bid on one lot of wine. Bids were consistently well above the “actual” value of each lot. But, again, all payments would be made directly to the charity. So I participated. I did not win, but that’s okay. I learned. In any other setting, paying above reasonable value would have equaled a rip-off to me. Not when the proceeds go to a worthy cause, though. Thus the term “worthy-cause wine”. I have a new category added to my acquisition repertoire.

Less than one week later, my husband casually mentioned that a close relative was attending a benefit in her small town in a different state. Apparently, she was volunteering to assist in setting up the event, then attending the “gala”.

Now that I had personal experience, something triggered. I went online, got an overview of the event. It was on a much larger scale than the one I experienced, and would benefit yet another worthy cause.

.

.

The family geek ended up calling said relative a few days before the gala. She agreed to check out the silent auction area the next day, and to let me know if there were any wine lots. This event’s silent auction was broader in focus, with most items being in the luxury goods category. Examples: one-of-a-kind trips, fine dining, jewelry. You get the picture.

But among the many items, there were two wine lots. One case of whites, one mixed case of reds and whites. Knowing our taste, she sent a photo of the mixed case. The photo clearly showed the label, the vintner, and a few of the specific wines. Uh oh. Up went my wine-dar (i.e., wine radar).

The vintner was a small producer whose tasting room we had visited a few years ago. We bought some of his wines. We met the vintner and got a sense of his approach and, most importantly, his underlying sense of pride in his work.

Did we need a mixed case of wine? Of course not. But consider our prior experience with the wine. And the fact that we trust the relative’s judgment. We chose to give the relative a maximum amount that we would bid through her. We noted that if any other family members who were attending wanted to participate as well, that was fine. We could work out specifics in the unlikely event that we won.

In prior years, cases of wine lots at this event were won at a substantial markup to actual value. So we had no expectation of winning. And, the prior week, I had lost my bid which was above value. But so what? Let the games begin!

.

.

The night of the gala, we received a few photos of the setting and of people having a wonderful time. Beautiful setting, everyone glammed up. All having a great time to support the cause. We vicariously enjoyed their sense of community. After all, we had been there and done that.

Overnight, we received a text message from our bidder-in-chief (or, if you’re a baseball fan, our designated bidder). Much to our amazement, we won. The full case. She had gone just a bit over our maximum bid, and was prepared to take some of the wine in return. But we realized that she really was not interested in the wine, and was just being polite. We took the entire case.

We have no idea why we won. What I do know is that our bidder-in-chief was superb. Together with her, my husband and I did the right thing. And we will find a place to put that wine. We will enjoy it, knowing why and how it was acquired.

Worthy-Cause Wine Cheers!

 

Guest Author: Discovering Montsant

  By admin | June 6, 2018 - 8:16 pm | ,
Leave a comment
.

.

Today we have a post from guest blogger Kryss Speegle. Kryss tells us about a recent trip to the Montstant DO. Read on for some insight into the history, the wines, and the region…but be warned this article is going to make you want to run and book a ticket to Spain!

 Marta Carbonell of Josep Grau Viticultor speaks with a quiet and engaging matter-of-factness: “We like high acidity. We love fruit. We hate oak.” Speaking for her own wines, she could easily be describing the Montsant style, and after a three-day visit, sponsored by Wines of Montsant, I’m ready to make this my mantra as well.

Unlike its flashy neighbor Priorat, where the famous llicorella slate dominates the landscape, Montsant is a patchwork of limestone, chalk and sand as well as slate, and elevations ranging from 50 to 700 meters; the wines are fresh and powerful with ferrous minerality and a core of intense fruit.

.

.

Wine has been a significant product of Catalonia since at least the 6th to 8th centuries BCE, though vine plantings increased significantly after the establishment of the monastery of Poblet. Italian and Middle Eastern varieties were eventually replaced by primarily with Carinyena (Carignan, also known by its Catalan name Samsó) and Garnatxa (Grenache); a treasury of old vines remains today and red grapes account for 95% of production. Though Garnatxa has slightly higher production, Carinyena is also a star player alone or in blends and a firm rebuke to those who view it primarily as a high-yielding blender. The 100% Carinenya from Cellers Sant Rafel is fresh and even elegant. The minute plantings of white grapes are mostly Garnatxa Blanca and Macabeo, which make wines with a perfumed lift and flavors of baked apple, lemon curd and hawthorn.

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah exist in small plantings but are silent partners at best. A happy exception to this is the use of Syrah for rosé wines; in a single sitting, two lovely examples, one from Coca i Fito (fresh and restrained) and another from Celler Rondanelles (intensely fruity) remind me that rosé complements grilled octopus, braised artichokes, potato chips and just about everything else.

.

.

Previously dominated by workhorse co-operatives, Montsant became a Denominación de Origin (DO) distinct from Tarragona in 2001 and within three years had 26 members across its 1,800 hectares, a testament to producers’ commitment to the region. Some are Priorat vintners looking for a bargain while others are locals who bucked the historical exodus to Barcelona. It’s an uplifting narrative for anyone accustomed to hearing that the world’s great wine regions are all supersaturated with vines or prohibitively expensive.

As the driver in front of us repeatedly stops to point at various vines, our guide from the DO claims that nearly everyone in the area has a few inherited plots — “Once poor farmers, now proud viticulturalists.” The region is also home to a thriving polyculture; marcona almonds, hazelnuts, cherries, and peaches are commercially grown and the slopes are dotted with wildflowers and resinous herbs.

Co-ops are still in the game but, as elsewhere in Europe, are redefining the old label with exciting and pleasurable wines. At Celler de Capçanes, a traditional co-operative found a successful niche in kosher wine production; the Peraj Ha’abib is the mainstay of this line and is lovely. The real excitement, though, is their “La Nit de les garnatxes” collection exploring the diversity of Montsant’s terroirs. Four wines of 100% Garnatxa, each representing one of the region’s four soil types, are presented in some of the  cleverest  packaging I’ve seen yet, wrapped in color-coded comics explaining the soil’s effect on the wine. The wines themselves do an amazing job telling the story of Montsant by drawing out its shades of difference—by turns refined and sinewy, generously fruited and earthy.

.

.

Nearly half of Montsant’s wines are exported with many available in U.S. retailers. For those who want a closer look, the DO’s commercial center is Falset, a self-sufficient town of 2,800 and a good base for exploring. To discover from a distance, see these sites:

.

.

About the Author: Kryss Speegle works in bulk sales, supplying wines and spirits to customers throughout the United States and around the world. Previously she was O’Neill’s Director of Winemaking, where she managed the company’s extensive varietal wine programs and led a talented team of winemakers.

Prior to O’Neill, Kryss held winemaking and enologist roles at Kenwood and Ravenswood. She has also worked for wineries in Napa, Mendocino, Germany and New Zealand. Kryss has served as a past judge for the San Francisco Chronicle and West Coast wine competitions and has taught wine courses at Santa Rosa Junior College and Napa Valley Wine Academy.

Kryss received a Bachelor’s degree from University of Virginia and a graduate degree in Food Science/Enology from University of California at Davis. While at Davis, Kryss conducted sensory research for Dr. Ann Noble, creator of the Wine Aroma Wheel.

When she’s not in the vineyard or in the production facility, Kryss enjoys cooking, traveling and spending time with her family.

Photo credits: Kryss Speegle

Guest Blogger: Reasons to Drink Wines from Uruguay… on site, if you can!

  By admin | February 22, 2018 - 9:53 am | ,
Leave a comment
.

.

Today we have a post from guest blogger Lucia Volk, CWE. Lucia tells us about a recent trip to Uruguay, where she toured the wineries and tasted the local wine, which in this case happened to include some world-class Tannat! 

When I watch sports games, I tend to root for the underdog. Drinking wine, I feel drawn to bottles that are lesser known.  While I congratulate estates and regions that enjoy high sales volumes because everyone agrees they are great, I truly admire winemakers who toil knowing that their wines will not easily find a space on a wine list or store shelf, no matter how good and how genuine the bottles they produce.

.

.

Uruguay remains an underdog in the South American wine world, despite the quantum leap forward in quality wine production in the Canelones and Maldonado regions over the past decades. You probably remember the last time you had an Argentinian Malbec or Chilean Cabernet, but when did you pour your last glass of Uruguayan Tannat?

I recently had the opportunity to travel to Uruguay, and I can tell you right off the bat that everything that the travel literature says about how friendly and welcoming the Uruguayans are is true.  Moreover, winemakers I met were philosophical, (com)passionate, perfectionist, with a hint of non-conformist and quirky thrown into the mix—not every day do you encounter a wild hog kept as a vineyard pet, as you do at Los Nadies in Santa Lucia, Uruguay.

Canelones, the main wine region outside the capital, features a mildly hilly terrain crisscrossed by rivers, and inhabited by colorful birds. Agriculture makes up a significant part of the country’s GDP.  If you have recently eaten top quality grass-fed steak, it may have been raised in Uruguay.

.

.

Winemakers search for poorer soils in the windier, coastal areas to plant their vines. Blessed with abundant sunshine and nightly cooling breezes from the ocean, their grapes ripen slowly and maintain a refreshing acidity. In most years, rain is sufficient and occurs at the right time, allowing for dry farming. Recurring humidity requires the application of copper/sulfur sprays during the growing season, but pesticides or fertilizers are generally not needed. Contrary to Argentina and Chile, most wineries in Uruguay are small to moderately-sized and family-owned. Chile’s Concha y Toro produces more than all of Uruguay put together on the 11,000ha it owns.

So if you want a hand-crafted South American red, sustainably farmed, your best bet is a bottle from Uruguay. Their specialty is the robust, red Tannat grape, imported by Basque migrants at the end of the 20th century.  While the European version of Tannat tends to live up to its tannic name, requiring extended aging before it shows its full potential, Uruguay’s more moderate climate and modern cellar practices—cold soaking and cool maceration—yield a softer version of Tannat, one that can be enjoyed quite young.

.

.

In a still, dry, single-varietal Tannat you can expect to find tannins and acidity, for sure, alongside plum and blackberry, plus secondary aromas of French and American oak.  It is the perfect complement to grass-fed Uruguayan beef, fresh off the grill. Single varietal Tannat is varied, as I learned at a comparison tasting at Deicas Winery in Juanico. While every bottle—Mar de Piedras, Valle de los Manatiales, and Domaine Castelar—had a peppery-spicy-smoky component, there were clear differences between grippier, earthier wines and more velvety, vanilla-and-plum versions. The 2013 flagship Massimo Deicas Tannat was densely layered with aromas and flavors, a wine that will make you a believer.

Tannat’s grippiness can be tamed.  Frequently, you find it blended with Merlot (Equilibrio, Los Nadies; Gran Guarda, Stagnari) and the less tannic [!!] Cabernet Sauvignon (Rio Colorado, de Lucca). Less frequently, it is blended with Syrah (de Lucca), Zinfandel (Artesana, the only Uruguayan Zin producer so far) or Viognier (Alto de la Ballena).  You can reduce the tannin load by fermenting Tannat entirely in stainless steel (Bouza, sin barrica). You can submit Tannat grapes to carbonic maceration and produce a berry basket of aromas easy on the palate (Don Prospero, Pizzorno). You can turn Tannat into a refreshing, bright red, raspberry rosé (Tannat Rosado, Artesana).  You can even produce an acid-driven base wine, add more sugar, and re-ferment, hand-riddling it into a deeply colored, dry sparkling wine (Brut Nature, Gabriel Pisano).

.

.

You can also dry the grapes—think Recioto and Amarone—and fortify Tannat to produce a purple-colored, spicy chocolate, peppery blackberry sweet desert wine (EtXe Oneko, Gustavo & Gabriel Pisano). And of course you can distill Tannat into a version of grappa (Bernardi). The options are endless!  It was fun to witness the inter-generational discussions between Gabriel and his uncle Daniel Pisano, or Agostina and her father Reinaldo de Lucca about new ways to produce or market Uruguayan wines. Family wine-making means preserving traditions, yet also moving along with the times.

Tannat is not only tasty, it is also good for you!  Polyphenols, compounds found in the skins and seeds of grapes, are responsible for most of the wine’s aromas. Among polyphenols are procyanidins, which have been shown to inhibit cholesterol plaque in blood vessels. Tannat contains almost four times as many polyphenols as Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon.  Turns out that the tannin that gives the grape its name takes care of your heart!

Of course grapes other than Tannat grow in Uruguay, especially Bordeaux and Northern Rhone varietals. While most of Uruguay’s wine is red, whites are also produced.  I was able to try remarkable Riesling, Albariño, Viognier, Torrontés, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay.  A recently established winery that is generating significant international buzz is Garzón in the eastern Maldonado region.  Conceived and financed by Argentine billionaire Alejandro Bulgheroni in consultation with Alberto Antonini, Garzón covers nearly 10,000 acres and uses the most up-to-date vinification technologies. Garzón’s Tannat Reserva 2015 made the Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines of 2017, the first Uruguayan wine to be thus honored.

Reinaldo and Agostina De Lucca’s photograph on shelf in tasting room, next to a vineyard map and Che…

Reinaldo and Agostina De Lucca’s photograph on shelf in tasting room, next to a vineyard map and Che…

If you are eager to explore Uruguay, I recommend reading the Uruguay chapter in Evan Goldstein’s Wines of South America, and studying www.uruguaywinetours.com, which lists all the wineries that are open to visitors.  The website makes it easy to contact bodegas ahead of time and arrange a tour. One thing to keep in mind is that Uruguay enforces a “zero tolerance law” that forbids drinking-and-driving. The solution is to hire a car for the day, or take a cab or ride share to where you want to go. Most Canelones wineries are 20-40 min outside the capital. If you want to visit Maldonado wineries, plan to spend a night in the lovely beach town of Punta del Este.

.

.

Beyond wine, Uruguay offers natural beauty. It has an amazing coastline and expansive interior. Montevideo features museums, galleries, and restaurants. Its rambla, nearly 14 miles of uninterrupted sidewalk along the Rio de la Plata, bustles with locals, who drink their mate tea or other beverage of choice, waiting for the sunset.  You can pick up a friendly game of basketball or soccer in parks along the rambla or chat with cheerful locals walking their dogs. And do not forget to stop by the Montevideo Wine Experience, the friendliest wine bar on earth, on your way out of town, to sample local wineries you did not have time to visit.

If Uruguay is a bit too far for you right now, ask your local store to stock Tannat or your favorite restaurant to include one on its wine list, if they don’t do it already. Uruguayan wines have grit and personality, and are made by people who love what they do. They stand proudly apart from the wines of their better known neighbors—underdogs, for the time being, among South American wines.

Lucia-150x150Photos and story by Lucia Volk, CWE. Lucia runs MindfulVine, a Wine Education business in the Bay Area that specializes in tailored, at-home tastings to promote a greater enjoyment of wine. She grew up in Germany, where her grandfather started a Riesling winery. She knows what it takes to work those steep slate slopes by hand, and decided to start promoting Riesling and other European wines after obtaining a PhD in Anthropology in the United States, and working briefly in wine sales.

She now gets to have the best of two worlds and teach about global politics and cultures, as well as the many wonderful wine regions across the world. She is also working–slowly–on a book about the lesser known German Anbaugebiete.

Read more at:

If you read Spanish, try also these links:

Are you interested in being a guest blogger or a guest SWEbinar presenter for SWE?  Click here for more information!

 

 

Guest Blogger: Southwest Sojourn Part 3: Arizona Adventures

  By admin | February 17, 2018 - 11:30 am |
Leave a comment
.

.

Today we have a guest post—the third and final in a series—by an author we have all gotten to know by the nom de plume of Candi, CSW. Click here to read the first article in the series, as Candi takes us on a tour of the Grand Canyon, and click here for the second stage as she makes her way through New Mexico. Today, Candi takes us on the final leg of her southwest sojourn with a trip through Arizona—with plenty of local wine along the way!

It was time to leave Santa Fe with good memories and ideas for our next trip there. Such a great destination that we were glad we allowed four nights for exploration. On to the final stop: Scottsdale, Arizona.

We had our longest drive of the trip from Santa Fe to Scottsdale. But it was mostly interstate highways with minimal traffic. We took our time, allowed frequent rest and stretch breaks, and enjoyed the view as scenery transitioned from canyons and mesas to deeper red rocks and pure desert. I couldn’t help but wonder if Saguaro cactus is used for margaritas, like the Prickly Pear of the Yellowstone area.

We had traveled to and through the Phoenix area many times for business and family visits. And, while we have enjoyed the Sedona area as a vacation stop, it seemed that Scottsdale had more of a resemblance to Santa Fe. The area offered an opportunity for more museum exploration and shopping. And, once I found that Scottsdale now has a wine trail, the decision was made.

.

.

Many Arizona wineries are located in remote areas of the state, such as Cochise County. Cochise appears to be one of the southernmost counties, with the Mexican border to the south. (For more details and another perspective, see a 2016 SWE blog post titled “Arizona Wines are gaining recognition — Imbibe and take notice!“) Some wineries have tasting rooms in Cochise County. I can see, however, that it would make sense to take some tasting rooms to the populous areas. Scottsdale appears to have the demographics to be a great location for an urban area tasting room.

Multiple wineries had already come to the same conclusion as I did about Scottsdale. The Scottsdale Wine Trail now features five winery tasting rooms/wine bars. I suppose an ambitious sort would be able to walk to all of them for tasting in a single day. That’s not our style, and the trip planner (me) had to account for temperatures of 90+ degrees, arid weather, and sun. Another opportunity for wise pacing. We chose to allow the morning for a museum, and the afternoon for two wine tastings.

We had checked into our hotel on a Friday evening. Quiet in-room dinner, a very good night’s sleep, then great morning coffee. A full Saturday on the agenda. The weather gods had smiled upon us; temperatures in the 80s to about 90. Cooler than expected equated to walk-friendly and wine-friendly.

We found that, unlike Santa Fe, free, underground, shaded parking is readily available in Scottsdale. Secured our shaded, delightfully cool space. Short walk to the Museum of the West, an affiliate of the Smithsonian. This museum was not widely mentioned in mainstream travel guides, so it may qualify as another “hidden gem”. And a valuable gem it is.

Given that we visited the Museum on a Saturday, I was concerned about crowding. Not at all. Very quiet, plenty of helpful docents. Exhibits of, it seemed, anything and everything Western culture-related. Paintings, pottery, ceramics, wildlife. All of these were well-done and enjoyable.

.

.

But two exhibitions were just outstanding. One featured Western clothing, leather goods, and accessories such as spurs and saddles. All of these were items that either were or could be actually used by ranchers, cowboys, law enforcement, etc. And the beautiful leather tooling! Some of the saddles struck me as works of art.

The second standout featured a vast collection of movie posters and film history. OK. This sounds lightweight and even a bit immature, but the depth and breadth of the display had me taking notes. We have since viewed a western movie or two that have demonstrated great acting, scenery, and a touch of history. Before we knew it, we had spent more than 3 hours exploring the Museum.

Meanwhile, the wine tasting rooms had begun the afternoon hours. We left the Museum of the West a bit reluctantly, wearing our stickers so we could get back in if time allowed. But two tasting rooms were calling, and one must have priorities.

.

.

Old Town Scottsdale, a brief walk from the Museum, features shopping, dining, and the Wine Trail. We did a quick reconnaissance of the shops; nothing compelling for us. On to the all-important afternoon stops.

Airidus Wine Company combines a tasting room and wine bar. The wine is produced in Willcox (Cochise County). Five wines of your choice per tasting; a one-bottle purchase of the higher-end bottlings waives the tasting fee. Fair enough. My tasting included Malvasia Blanca, Rose’ of Mourvèdre and Grenache, Grenache, Malbec and Petite Sirah. Service was excellent, with plenty of information volunteered in response to my geeky questions. My only criticism: while my palate is still developing, I clearly recognized that the Petite Sirah was corked. All of the other wines were purchase-worthy.

But it seemed to me that the reds were the most attractive. Overall impressions: deep, compelling, long finish, oak, varietally-correct fruits. So this frugal soul was drawn to not one, but two bottles. Malbec and Grenache. Plus 2 bottles of their version of casual wines, the Tank Blends. One white (Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay and Malvasia Blanca). One red (Malbec, Mourvèdre, Syrah and Montepulciano). Blends, indeed!

Map of the Scottsdale Wine Trail via: http://www.scottsdalewinetrail.com/

Map of the Scottsdale Wine Trail via: http://www.scottsdalewinetrail.com/

Carlson Creek is another tasting room with wine bar. This venue was very busy, but Wendy, the sole server, was efficient, friendly, informative, and kept moving. She gets credit for noting and understanding my CSW pin. She returned to us frequently so we could learn from each other. What fun!

With a choice of 12 wines, narrowing the field was a challenge. We sampled Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, a Rose’ of Grenache, Sangiovese, Mourvèdre, a GSM blend and Syrah. Okay, maybe I didn’t narrow the field too well; but, I had my trusty designated driver. I was walking a short distance back to the car. I kept hydrated. It was my last wine stop of the trip. I was relaxed and enjoying myself. Did I mention I was on vacation?

Decisions, decisions. The whites were enjoyable, and I can see how a white-only afficianado would have several options. But we enjoy whites, Rose’ (technically a red, but always a bridge wine to me), and reds. The reds of Carlson Creek were even more appealing to me than those of Airidus. Complexity, balance, evolving-over-minutes. Food pairings already in the mind. Evoking memories of a warm to hot climate.

Two bottles waived the tasting. Not. A. Problem. After deliberation, wine one was Mourvèdre, because of the attractive leather aromas and flavors. Could this have been a flashback to the exhibition at the Museum of the West? Possible.

Wine two, Rule of Three as a well-done GSM and for potential food-friendliness. Wine three, our favorite, the Syrah. The deep, intense, varietally-correct Syrah. Yes. If you are a Sryah lover and visit, please, please try this wine.

More water, another short walk, wine returned safely to car in cool space. Yet more water and another short walk to pick up the takeout we’d ordered. The dining establishments were not yet busy and we wanted to exit before the Saturday night crowd began. Dinner secured, all missions accomplished.

.

.

Our final evening of the vacation. Plenty of time to begin packing and organizing for the final day of driving. Hydration, hydration, hydration. And, when we were ready, a great meal courtesy of Cowboy Ciao. This place had come highly recommended; they were correct. One of the best chopped salads I’ve ever had, truffle macaroni and cheese, and a wine pairing of Vivac Sangiovese.

Another good night’s sleep. On the drive home, I began to reflect on the many things that went well on our trip. Key success factors, to use business-speak. Pacing ourselves. Blending culture, shopping, moderate walking, wine tasting. Recognizing when it was wise to end the day and elevate feet. Stretch breaks on the road. Agenda to minimize crowds and noise. These may not be critical items for go-go-go extroverts. But they are for, ahem, aging introverts.

What about the common themes of Southwest wine? Based on my initial impressions, of course. Further study is clearly indicated. How’s that for justification of already considering what to do on the next trip?

.

.

Shared characteristics we experienced were young wineries, many varietals per winery, more reds than whites. Maybe these vintners are still trying to establish a strategy of which grapes grow best, and then plan to focus on those. Maybe not. We also noted more reds than whites, which may equate to warm, arid climate. Pleasant, approachable whites. Clearly more compelling reds. If I had to find comparable areas, the Sierra Foothills for the New World and Spain for Old World would suffice.

Now, we have the post-trip enjoyment of seeing whether our decisions in the short-term reward us as the drinking windows begin to open. For some reason, I am optimistic.

Southwest Salute’, Cheers, and Happy New Year!

Guest Blogger: Southwest Sojourn Part Two: New Mexico

  By admin | December 11, 2017 - 4:56 pm | ,
Leave a comment
Santa Fe, New Mexico

Santa Fe, New Mexico

Today we have a guest post—the second in a series—by an author we have all gotten to know by the nom de plume of Candi, CSW. Click here to read the first article in the series, as Candi takes us on a tour of the Grand Canyon. Below, Candi takes us on the second leg of her southwest sojourn to New Mexico—complete with museums, turquoise jewelry, and (of course) New Mexico wine!  

After a worthwhile stop at the Grand Canyon, our next destination was New Mexico. We used Santa Fe as our base of operations and took side trips to Los Alamos and Taos. Given our preferences to avoid crowds and noise, our stay in Santa Fe was on weekdays. I highly recommend this strategy if your goal is a relaxing, all-adult trip.

Our side trips were both very scenic drives, which reminded me of the book cliff-type canyons and mesas of Colorado. Highlights of our side trips included:

Bradbury Science Center, Los Alamos. This is a free, small museum located in the center of the small town. Convenient parking right outside the door, staffed by enthusiastic volunteers. If you are a history and/or science buff, this is worth a stop. Provides a sobering, educational experience of our history from World War II to the present.

Los Alamos Nature Center. Not easy to locate, but once we found the place it was a literally hidden “gem”. Apparently run by a not-for-profit, again staffed by volunteers. The outdoor exhibits feature succulent gardens and local plants. Indoors, there were exhibits about plant, insect and animal life. If I am going to view snakes, scorpions and tarantula spiders, I prefer to do so when they are in glass-enclosed cases. Then I can take a close look and identify what I hope to never see in my own yard.

Taos, New Mexico

Taos, New Mexico

Millicent Rogers Museum, Taos. Again, not easy to locate, but what a find once we got there! This museum surfaced on my pre-trip research, thank goodness. Wonderful displays of Native American blankets, rugs, pottery, and ceramics. But the highlight was clearly Ms. Rogers’ collection of Southwest jewelry. Much more elaborate than my personal taste, but stunning. Silver, turquoise, other gems, necklaces, oh my! Highly recommended if Southwest culture and art are of any interest. Yet again, a helpful volunteer provided additional information on Taos to assist us in making a few stops on the way out of town.

When we checked in at the Rogers Museum, there was only one couple next to us doing the same thing. One of them mentioned that she was American, but had married a British citizen and lived in the UK. So the wine geek in me asked if she had tried the British sparkling wines and, if so, what did she think? Well. It turned out that she and her husband own vineyards in South Africa! I have the names of their brands to research. But I ask you, what are the odds of that type of meeting in a museum on the outskirts of a small town in New Mexico? Curiouser and curiouser.

The town of Dixon is located between Taos and Santa Fe. This little place is the site of Vivac Winery. This vintner features wines made from grapes grown in New Mexico. My preferences include both small-production wineries and those that feature grapes grown in the state in which the winery is located.

Photo via: https://www.facebook.com/VivacWinery

Photo via: https://www.facebook.com/VivacWinery

Sidebar: I understand that some connoisseurs tend to, ahem, frown upon wines that are not from the glamorous, well-known viticultural areas. One of the great things about wine is there can be something for all of us to enjoy.

The Vivac facility includes wine tasting, wines by the glass and even craft beer tasting. Lesson one about tasting in relatively remote areas: tasting room staff of these facilities may not be especially knowledgeable about wine. My strategy was to take an open-ended approach; for example, just asking what the server could tell me about the wine. Note- taking. Looking at label detail. Getting what information that I could. Part of the adventure.

Vivac wines sampled included Chenin Blanc, Dry Riesling, Sangiovese, Refosco, Tempranillo, and Cabernet Sauvignon. A plus was the wide selection of varietals from which to choose. I was not, however, able to discern enough variation in wine quality and impact to purchase the more expensive wines tasted. So Chenin Blanc and Sangiovese were the choices. We have since enjoyed a bottle of each and they have proven to be solid selections. Bonus: our hotel featured a program encouraging visits to local merchants. Each wine bottle was 15% off, and I had planned this visit before even learning about the discount. Score!

Our final day in New Mexico was reserved for Santa Fe. We began with a stop at the very popular Georgia O’ Keefe Museum. If you are a fan, it is worth a stop. But beware: the museum is small and the entry fee is steep compared to others that we encountered. We will return to the gift shop, though. Nice, varied selection and, duh, no fee to get into the shop!

Until this trip, I did not realize that Santa Fe is considered quite the culinary destination. There is even a Santa Fe School of Cooking. Given my wine passion, branching out into a beginning foodie has been a natural extension. So a stop at the School’s shop for School of Cooking products was a no-brainer. Oh, and remember the 15% discount? Another score at a shop I had already planned to patronize.

.

.

Another sidebar: for takeout dinners, we especially enjoyed Blue Corn Cafe and Rooftop Artisan Pizza. Blue Corn was a place we visited 10+ years ago and they are still going strong. Rooftop is an affiliate of Blue Corn and makes some interesting pies featuring Southwest items such as green chiles and, yes, blue corn crust.

We strolled the Santa Fe Plaza, but found the shopping to be limited with more vacant retail space than we expected. And, the shops seemed to alternate between tacky-touristy and very glamour-oriented with prices to match. A benefit that resulted: we had time to walk further, to the galleries and shops along Canyon Road.

After seeing the Rogers Museum the previous day, my interest in Southwest art, pottery and ceramics had grown. One of the Canyon Road galleries had several “starter” collectible pieces that appealed. One followed me home. Looking at the piece every few days since returning, it still entices and reminds me of the vacation. Sort of like bringing home a bottle of wine you’ve tasted, enjoying after a year or two, and confirming that your purchase was a good decision.

Thanks to our first stop at the Grand Canyon, we were acclimated to altitude. But on our Santa Fe day, we again walked well over 3 miles, all on hard surfaces. It was well worth the additional 1+ miles we put in to get to Canyon Road. At the end of the afternoon, we began to feel the impact of the activity. A bit sore. Made it back to the hotel, slowly. Walked to the lobby elevators. Tired. Just thinking of putting our feet up and re- hydrating.

Photo via: https://www.casarondena.com/winery/

Photo via: https://www.casarondena.com/winery/

Wait. My “Wine-Dar” (Wine Radar) went off on the way into the elevator. We took the elevator to our floor, unloaded all of our purchases, and my husband went to the ice machines. I just had to go back downstairs and check out my Wine-Dar. Sure enough, there was a table set up in a corner of the lobby. Hotel staff at the ready. Several bottles of Red on the table, White in an ice bucket. Glasses. I approached the table and noted one gentleman wore Sommelier name tag. OK. I explained that I was a complete wine geek, and basically asked what he was doing.

Turns out that many hotel guests are unaware that New Mexico makes wine. And, once a week, they offer wine samples to guests from one of the small wineries. This week, it was Casa Rondeña, a vintner new to me. Never one to be shy about wine, I asked if I might take a two glasses of vino up to our room; of course! So I asked about the various options and settled upon one glass of a Bordeaux-style blend of Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. My other choice was another blend: Tempranillo, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Back up the elevators with two glasses of wine and a smile on my face. Put feet up. Once that was done, there were no plans to leave the room until morning. Pacing ourselves.

For the evening, we had takeout already in the frig, along with a half-bottle of Vivac Chenin Blanc. At dinnertime, we got out the paper plates, enjoyed our takeout, and began with the Vivac in our trusty plastic wine glasses. At one point, I got up to refill my glass. Opened the frig, which required turning my back on husband. Poured some wine, and heard behind me a light tapping sound. Although I was tired, I was alert enough to know two things. One, the tapping sound was made with a plastic wine glass gently coming in contact with a table. Two, the translation was: “hit me again, woman”. He’s not a demanding soul, but, hey, I was the one standing up by the frig.

Later, each of us sampled the two Casa Rondena wines. Husband preferred the Bordeaux- style blend. I preferred the other blend. So each of us got the remainder of our preferred wine. In a glass glass, even. Funny how preferences work out that way.

A very nice visit to New Mexico. A blend of culture, beautiful drives, shopping, nice dining, and enjoying new and different wines.

By the way, did you know that Scottsdale, Arizona now has a wine trail? Stay tuned for Part Three.

In the meantime, New Mexico Wine Cheers!