Nathan “Nearest” Green, Master Distiller

Photo of Jack Daniels with George Green (Nearest Green's son) via: https://www.jackdaniels.com/en-us/vault

Photo of Jack Daniels with George Green (Nearest Green’s son) via: https://www.jackdaniels.com/en-us/vault

Within the world of spirits, students and connoisseurs alike quickly learn that the story and history of a spirit, the lore behind the bottle, can be as compelling as the actual beverage. Knowing about the people that spent their lives making the products we love allows us to feel connected to them and the entire tradition around those drinks. However, it is very often the case that we do not have the entire story. It takes the work of historians and writers to uncover the stories behind the stories. It took this kind of work to bring one remarkable man out of the shadows of history and into the light of the present day – Nathan “Nearest” Green or as he was known to his friends and family “Uncle Nearest.”

Nearest Green was born into slavery sometime in the early 1800s. The history of his early life is hard to piece together, but by the mid-1800s he was held by a company called Landis & Green which would hire out Green’s labor. Lutheran Minister Dan Call hired Nearest in the 1850s through this company. Call ran a farm, a successful general store, and a still in Lois, TN, just outside of Lynchburg. From all available accounts, Nearest acted as the head distiller for the operation, which was not an uncommon role for enslaved African Americans throughout America.

After working and running the still for Call for some time, a pre-teen Jack Daniels arrived at the operation intent on learning how to make whiskey. Call referred to Nearest as the “best whiskey maker” he knew, making him an ideal mentor for the young Daniels. The two spent years working side by side, making whiskey throughout the entire course of the Civil War. Nearest’s enslavement formally ended with the passage of the 13th Amendment, and after which he chose to continue working with Daniels and Call. By the late 1860s the whiskey business was thriving and after Call had a crisis of conscience he sold his stake to Daniels which resulted in the creation of the Jack Daniel Distillery. Nearest became its first head distiller, the equivalent to a modern-day master distiller.

Nearest worked alongside Jack Daniels for many years, up until his retirement in the 1880s. His career and success made him one of the wealthiest men in Lynchburg and his dedication to distillation became a family tradition. His sons, George and Eli, went to work for Daniels, as well as several of his grandchildren. Ultimately, over the past century and a half, seven generations of Green’s descendants have worked for the Jack Daniels distillery.

Original office building on the grounds of the Jack Daniel's Distillery (Lynchburg, Tennessee)

Original office building on the grounds of the Jack Daniel’s Distillery (Lynchburg, Tennessee)

Nearest Green’s story was common knowledge to the families of Lynchburg. Past historians also knew of his contributions to Tennessee and American whiskey. Yet it was not until a few years ago that the man and legend of Nearest Green entered the mainstream public consciousness – primarily through the work of author Fawn Weaver. Over the course of a year of research, Weaver assembled the facts and pieces of Nearest’s life, spending countless hours interviewing his descendants and the people of Lynchburg. Through oral history, historic records, and artifacts, we now have a more complete look at the early days of Jack Daniels and the indispensable impact Nearest had upon it.

The legacy of Nearest Green is preserved today in several ways. There’s a non-profit organization, the Nearest Green Foundation, dedicated to preserving and sharing the history of Nearest. There’s also a scholarship program, the Nearest Green Legacy Scholarship, dedicated to helping provide educational opportunities to descendants of Nearest. And, perhaps most famously, the Tennessee whiskey brand, Uncle Nearest, that bears his name in tribute to his achievements as an African American distiller in the nineteenth-century.

About the author: Ben Coffelt, CSS, CSW serves as a Sales Director for the Society of Wine Educators (SWE). Originally from California, Ben Coffelt started his wine and spirits career leading customer tastings and staff trainings at Trader Joe’s. His love of history drives his interests, and he’s always eager to learn about a new place, person, or product. He can often be found sipping rum with his French Bulldog, Hobbes.

References/for more information:

New Rules Adopted for US Wine, Beer, and Spirits

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At long last, the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) of the United States  has finalized a new set of rules, known as the “Modernization of the Labeling and Advertising Regulations for Wine, Distilled Spirits, and Malt Beverages.” This rule was published today (April 1, 2020) and goes into effect on May 3. The original proposal was first announced in November of 2018 and has gone through several rounds of (often cantankerous) public comment and debate.

One of the most debated (and certainly most controversial) parts of the proposed new regulations sought to limit the definition of oak barrels (as used in the aging of distilled spirits) to only include cylindrical drums of approximately 50 gallons. During the public comment periods, the TTB received nearly 700 comments on this issue, almost all of which expressed opposition. The proposal was seen to limit the creativity of distillers that prefer to use smaller—or differently-shaped—barrels and to incur a financial barrier to entry as well. The good news is that this part of the proposal was NOT adopted into the final rule.

The majority of the new rules apply to the production, process of label approvals, importation, and distribution of alcoholic beverages. However, there are many parts of the new rules that are of interest to wine and spirits professionals as well as enthusiasts. Some of these changes are discussed below.

Vodka: The definition of vodka has been updated to read as follows: “Vodka” is neutral spirits which may be treated with up to two grams per liter of sugar and up to one gram per liter of citric acid. Products to be labeled as vodka may not be aged or stored in wood barrels at any time except when stored in paraffin-lined wood barrels and labeled as bottled in bond. (The requirement for US vodka to be “without distinctive character, aroma, taste, or color” will be rescinded.)

Agave Spirits: Agave Spirits (as a class of products) have been defined (for the first time in the US). The new definition reads as follows: “Agave spirits” are distilled from a fermented mash, of which at least 51 percent is derived from plant species in the genus Agave and up to 49 percent is derived from other sugars. Agave spirits must be distilled at less than 95 percent alcohol by volume (190° proof) and bottled at or above 40 percent alcohol by volume (80° proof). Tequila and Mezcal are specifically defined as products of Mexico, made in compliance with the laws and regulations of Mexico.

Triple-distilled(?): Tighter restrictions on claims of the “number of times distilled” were implemented. According to the new rules, a distillation means a single run through a pot still or a single run through a column of a column still. Previously, some distillers claimed one “distillation run” for each plate found in a column still (as in “distilled one hundred times!”).

The document outlining these new rules is several hundred pages in length, but if you have the time and the fortitude, check it out for yourself here.

References/for more information:

We’ll be keeping an eye on the news concerning these new laws as they develop!!

New for Norway: Norsk Vodka and Norsk Akvavit PGI

Photo via the EC: https://ec.europa.eu/info/food-farming-fisheries

Photo via the EC: https://ec.europa.eu/info/food-farming-fisheries

It is a good day to celebrate in Norway—the European Union has granted approval for two new Protected Geographical Indications (PGIs) for the distinctive spirit drinks of Norway: Norsk Vodka (Norwegian Vodka) and Norsk Akvavit (Norwegian Aquavit).

Norsk Vodka is defined as a “clear, transparent and colorless” spirit, bottled at a minimum of 37.5% abv (products up to 60% abv are also allowed). It must be produced using potatoes or grains as its base ingredient, and it must be mashed, fermented, and distilled within the borders of the Kingdom of Norway. It is, however, allowed to be diluted (with water) and bottled outside of the country.

One interesting part of the EU standard is that Norsk Vodka must be fermented using cultivated yeast as opposed to spontaneous fermentation. The use of cultivated yeast produces a base ferment that is low in congeners. Another part of the regulation states that the spirit must be distilled to a minimum of 96% abv (192°). According to the technical file, these factors combine to create a clean, fresh-tasting finished product free of the “burning aftertaste” that sometimes accompanies a shot of vodka.

With the approval of Norsk Vodka, there are now six countries with PGI status for their distinctive vodka: Norway, Poland, Sweden, Finland, Lithuania, and Estonia.

Photo via the EC: https://ec.europa.eu/info/food-farming-fisheries

Photo via the EC: https://ec.europa.eu/info/food-farming-fisheries

A PGI for Norsk Akvavit (which may also be referred to as Norsk Akevitt, Norsk Aquavit, or Norwegian Aquavit) was also approved this week. Norsk Akvavit may be bottled at a variety of strengths, ranging from 37.5% to 60% alcohol by volume. Potatoes are the only allowed base ingredient, and a minimum of 95% of the potatoes must be of Norwegian origin.

The main flavorings must be derived from caraway or dill, and the product should contain specific amounts of the flavor-rich substances limonene (reminiscent of citrus) and carvone (found in caraway, dill, and spearmint). Other botanicals may be used to flavor Norsk Akvavit, including (but not limited to) aniseed, celery seed, chamomile, coriander seed, fennel seed, grains of paradise, dried lemon peel, dried bitter orange peel, and star anise.

After flavoring, the Norsk Akvavit must spend a minimum of 6 months in oak casks (provided the casks are smaller than 1,000 liters in volume), or 12 months minimum in larger casks.  It is traditional to age the akvavit in barrels that previously held fermented beverages such as Sherry, Madeira, and Port wine; however, new barrels are also allowed. As a result, Norsk Akvavit may be bottled in a range of colors from water-white to dark amber.

Raise a glass to Norway!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Welcome to the World, Absinthe de Pontarlier PGI!

Photo via: https://www.inao.gouv.fr

Photo via: https://www.inao.gouv.fr

On August 19 2019, the EU registered a protected geographical indication (PGI) for Absinthe de Pontarlier.

Absinthe is a well-known spirit drink with a fascinating and somewhat checkered history. By most accounts, it best-known for the period of time (1915 – 1990 and beyond) during which it was outlawed! Even in its modern incarnation, absinthe remains a mystery that has defied standardization and definition. It may be green, clear, or yellow in appearance; it is sometimes considered a flavored spirit drink and at other times may be referred to as a liqueur. While this disparity may continue into the future, as of now we have one absinthe product that is legally (and specifically) defined: Absinthe de Pontarlier PGI.

Absinthe de Pontarlier is a product of France and may only be produced in the French Departement of Doubs. (Doubs is located in the Alps of central-east France, along the border with Switzerland and surrounded by the French departments of Jura and Haute-Saône.) Historical records make mention of an “elixir d’Absinthe” being made in the region since the 18th century, when Major Henri Dubied moved his production facility—originally located in the Swiss town of Couvet (now a part of Val-de-Travers)—about 20 miles (32 km) west to Pontarlier, France.

 Map of Doubs, France (By Marmelad - based on: Départements de France-simple.svg)


Map of Doubs, France (By Marmelad – based on: Départements de France-simple.svg)

Absinthe de Pontarlier may be produced using an unspecified base spirit, but the use of locally-grown wormwood (Artemisia abinsthium) is mandatory. In addition, the drying of the wormwood, the maceration of the botanicals, the re-distillation of the macerate, any post-distillation procedures, and the bottling of the spirit must all be carried out at a single location within the defined region of origin.

Other regulations for the production of Absinthe de Pontarlier include the following:

  • The spirit must be clear and pale-yellow with greenish hues. When water is added, it becomes cloudy and opaque.
  • It must contain a minimum 45% abv.
  • In addition to Artemisia abinsthium, it must contain anise seed (Pimpinella anisum), both of which must be macerated in a base spirit. Roman wormwood (Artemisia pontica) and hyssop (Hyssopus officinalis) may be used for coloring. Lemon balm, fennel, and mint are specifically allowed to be used in limited proportations, as are “other aromatic plants with the exception of star anise.”
  • The base spirit must be re-distilled after maceration with the required botanicals (wormwood and anise seed).
  • No flavorings or extracts may be used, although some colorings are permitted.
  • Sugar (up to 35 grams per liter of finished product) may be added, but is not required.
  • Aging is allowed but is not required. A declaration of aging may appear on the product label if it is aged for a minimum of six months in oak.

Across the globe, absinthe is strictly regulated and the rules regarding its composition (mainly focusing on allowed levels of thujone) vary greatly across countries and regions. In the United States, the Alcohol and Tobacco Trade and Tax Bureau (TTB) has a proposal in the works that will require absinthe distributed in the United States to meet certain requirements for a maximum level of thujone and—although this has not yet been ratified into law—it remains to be seen whether or not Absinthe de Pontalier will be allowed to be exported into the United States. We might just need to take a trip to Pontarlier in order to have a sip!

Welcome to the world, Absinthe de Pontarlier PGI!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles, your blog administrator…

Modern Vodka for Canada: Canada Updates its 60-year-old Vodka Standards

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Effective today (June 26, 2019), the government of Canada has updated its labeling laws for vodka. This is the first change in the country’s laws regarding vodka since 1959. The change was announced via publication in the Canada Gazette, Part II, Volume 153, Number 13.

These new laws—as set forth in the Food and Drug Regulations of Canada—include the following standards:

  • Canadian vodka may be produced from cereal grains, potatoes, or other agricultural products such as fruit, dairy products, or honey
  • If produced from a base ingredient other than potatoes or grains, it must be stated on the label using terminology such as “vodka produced from grapes” or a phrase such as “produced from apples” in close proximity to the term “Vodka” on the label
  • Canadian vodka should be rendered neutral (without distinctive character, aroma, or taste) during its production process, which may include (but does not require) charcoal filtration.

These new standards are an update of the previous laws, which permitted Canadian Vodka to be produced using potatoes or cereal grains only, and required that all Canadian vodka undergo charcoal-filtration.

It is expected that these new laws will encourage innovation in the Canadian distilling industry while facilitating international trade.

Sounds like today is a great day to taste-test some Canadian vodka! May I recommend Crystal Head Vodka (Dan Aykroyd will thank you), Iceberg Vodka, or perhaps a dry martini made with Polar Ice?

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

References/for more information:

 

Big News: The EU Publishes the 2019 Spirit Drinks Regulations

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Big news! After years of parliamentary debate, the new spirits regulations of the EU—known as the rules regarding the “Scope, Definition, and Categories” of Spirits Drinks—has been published in the Official Journal of the European Union (May 17, 2019). These new rules will apply beginning on May 25, 2021.

The most interesting updates (imho) are those that implement some limits on the inclusion of sugar or other sweeteners. For instance:

  • Vodka “may be sweetened in order to round off the final taste. However, the final product may not contain more than 8 grams of sweetening products per litre.”
  • Rum “Rum may be sweetened in order to round off the final taste. However, the final product may not contain more than 20 grams of sweetening products per litre.”
  • Whisky (whiskey) was never allowed to contain sweeteners under the EU laws, however, the new regulation states it quite clearly: “Whisky or whiskey shall not be sweetened, even for rounding off the taste, or flavoured, or contain any additives other than plain caramel used for adjusting the colour.”

The new laws also provide the following definition of “single malt” whisky: “The legal name of ‘whisky’ or ‘whiskey’ may be supplemented by the term ‘single malt’ only if it has been distilled exclusively from malted barley at a single distillery.”

In addition, under the new regulations, there will be 44 categories of EU spirits. (Under the previous regulations, there were 46.) The changes to the categories include the following:

  • Category 13: The name “Bierbrand or eau de vie de bière” has been updated to read “Beer Spirit”
  • Category 28: The spirit known as “Anis” may also be known as “janeževec”
  • Category 32: A category for “Sloe-aromatised spirit drink” or “Pacharán” has been added
  • The separate category for Crème de cassis has been eliminated, but the product has been added to the discussion of Category 14 “Crème de (supplemented by the name of a fruit or other raw material used)”
  • The separate product categories for Guignolet and Punch au rhum have been eliminated, but definitions for these products have been added to the category of liqueurs (category 33)

The following specific rules are also noted:

  • Rum-Verschnitt is a product of Germany made by mixing rum with neutral spirits.
  • Slivovice, produced in Czechia, is a blend of plum spirit (plum brandy) and neutral spirits.
  • Guignolet Kirsch, produced in France, is a mixture of guignolet and kirsch.

These laws do not change the current geographical indications of any spirits; all PGI- and PDO-designated spirits remain as such.

It will be fascinating to see how these new rules affect the spirit drinks we know and love!

If you are so inclined, you may read all 127 pages of the new regulations here: New Spirits Drinks Regulations EU May 2019

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles, your blog administrator