Category Archives: Testable Material for the CWE Exam

Photo of the town of Magliano Alfieri by Alessandro Vecchi, via Wikimedia Commons

Piedmont’s Terre Alfieri wine region has just been promoted from a denominazione di origine controllata (DOC) to a denominazione di origine controllata e garantita (DOCG) wine producing region!

With this latest promotion, Italy is now home to 76 DOCGs. Terre Alfieri is the 18^th such region located in Piedmont—solidifying Piedmont’s “first place” status among Italy’s 20 regions in terms of number of DOCGs (Veneto is second, having a total of 14).

The Terre Alfieri DOCG—located just to the east (and slightly north) of the Roero DOCG—includes seven communes located in the province of Asti (Antignano, Celle Enomondo, Cisterna, Revigliasco, San Damiano, San Martino Alfieri, and Tigliole) and four in the province of Cuneo (Castellinaldo, Govone, Magliano Alfieri, and Priocca).

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Terrie Alfieri DOCG produces two styles of wine: red wines based on Nebbiolo and white wines based on Arneis. These are the same two styles of wine that were previously made when the region was a DOC, and the same two that its neighbor—the Roero DOCG—produces. A few rules and regulations have been updated with the recent promotion to DOCG status, which now reflects the following standards:

• Terre Alfieri Arneis: minimum 85% Arneis, minimum 12% abv
• Terre Alfieri Arneis Superiore: minimum 85% Arneis, minimum 12.5% abv, minimum 6 months aging
• Terre Alfieri Nebbiolo: minimum 85% Nebbiolo, minimum 13% abv, minimum 4 months aging
• Terre Alfieri Nebbiolo Superiore: minimum 85% Nebbiolo, minimum 13.5% abv, minimum 1 year of aging (including 6 months in wood)
• Terre Alfieri Nebbiolo Riserva: minimum 85% Nebbiolo, minimum 13.5% abv, minimum 2 years of aging (including one year in wood)

The region—named for the noble Alfieri family that ruled these lands many generations ago—was first awarded DOC status in 2009.

Welcome to the world, Terre Alfieri DOCG!

Note: As with all such updates, this change will need to wind its way through EU approval; however, as the Italian government has granted their approval, the changes can be implemented in the meantime. Most likely, the Terre Alfieri DOCG will apply as of the release of the wines of the 2020 vintage. If the EU fails to approve the amendment, the regulation will be rescinded (although this seems unlikely to happen).

References/for more information:

• Disciplinare Terre Alfieri DOCG
• Gazzetta Uffciale October 21, 2020
• https://www.targatocn.it/2020/07/29/sommario/agricoltura/leggi-notizia/argomenti/agricoltura/articolo/il-terre-alfieri-conquista-la-docg-castellinaldo-govone-magliano-e-priocca-tra-gli-11-comun.html

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Photo via: https://www.pouilly-fuisse.net/en/

More than 12 years after the beginning of the process, the Pouilly-Fuissé AOC has 22 official premier crus!

As reported by Frédéric-Marc Burrier, president of the Union des Producteurs de Pouilly-Fuissé, the application process for France’s newest premier cru appellations began with an in-depth study of the soil, topography, and history of the Pouilly-Fuissé area. This part of the project included creating a detailed map of the appellation’s 217 lieux-dits and the painstaking delineation of the 22 plots that would hold the area’s highest classification (all of which had to be approved by the organization’s 250 member-producers).

The application was approved by France’s Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité (INAO) on September 3, 2020. The newly-approved premier crus represent 194 hectares—24% of the total area of the Pouilly-Fuissé AOC—and are spread over the four communes of the appellation: Chaintré, Fuissé, Solutré-Pouilly and Vergisson.

The Pouilly-Fuissé AOC, famous for white wines made using 100% Chardonnay, is located in Burgundy’s Mâconnais region. Pouilly-Fuissé is one of the five well-known, white-wine producing communal AOCs of the Mâconnais.  (For the wine students: the others include the Viré-Clessé, Saint-Véran, Pouilly-Vinzelles, and Pouilly-Loché AOCs.)

Pouilly-Fuissé is the first appellation of the Mâconnais to officially recognize specific climats as premier crus. The list is as follows:

• Commune de Chaintré
  • Le Clos de Monsieur Noly
  • Les Chevrières
  • Aux Quarts
  • Le Clos Reyssier

• Commune de Fuissé
  • Le Clos
  • Les Brulés
  • Les Ménétrières
  • Les Reisses
  • Les Vignes Blanches
  • Les Perrières
  • Vers Cras (shared with Solutré-Pouilly)

• Commune de Solutré-Pouilly
  • La Frérie
  • Le Clos de Solutré
  • Au Vignerais
  • En Servy
  • Aux Bouthières
  • Aux Chailloux
  • Pouilly
  • Vers Cras (shared with Fuissé)

• Commune de Vergisson
  • Les Crays
  • La Maréchaude
  • Sur la Roche
  • En France

Update: As of April of 2021, this amendment was approved by the EU.

References/for more information:

• CdC Pouilly-Fuissé updated 2020
• Communique de Pressé-Pouilly-Fuissé-INAO
• Union des Producteurs de Pouilly-Fuissé
• Announcement on the website of the INAO regarding Pouilly-Fuissé AOC Premiers Crus

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

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It has been rumored for a while, and at long last (as of June of 2020) the Montlouis-sur-Loire AOC has been amended to include a style of sparkling wine produced via a variation of the methode ancestrale.

The methode ancestrale—a method of sparkling wine produced involving along,  single, often interrupted, fermentation—is assumed to have been responsible for the earliest versions of sparkling wine ever produced. These early bubblies most likely involved a fortunate series of events and spontaneous fermentation. In modern times, wines made in this style of wine—including some styles of Limoux Mousseux and Clairette de Die—are produced in a few far-flung French AOCs. These have, until recently, remained quite obscure.

These days, sparkling wines produced using variations of the methode ancestrale have become trendy, and variations are produced all over the world. Some are pink, some are white, some are orange, and some are red. Some of these are referred to by the informal moniker of pétillant natural, or pét-nat—and you either love them or you hate them.

Amidst all of the trendy goings-on, the venerable Montlouis-sur-Loire AOC has been quietly producing sparkling wines using these old-fashioned, natural methods for quite a while. Now, the Cahier des Charges (official rules of the appellation) have been updated to define and include them in the list of wines approved for appellation-certified production.

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The new version of the documentation includes the following rules and regulations for an “official” version of sparkling wines produced via a single fermentation—to be known as Vins Mousseux à Fermentation Unique. The standards include:

• 100% Chenin Blanc
• Mandatory hand-harvest
• Whole-cluster, gentle pressing, no de-stemming or pre-crushing allowed
• Natural yeast fermentation
• No sugar may be added at any time during processing/zero dosage
• Single fermentation: fermentation may begin inside a vat or a barrel, and the partially fermented must is bottled to “capture the foam”
• The wines spend a minimum of 9 months on the lees beofre disgorging.
  • Note: despite the fact that many similar wines, including some of those referred as pét-nat, are bottled on the lees—the wines of the Montlouis-sur-Loire AOC must be disgorged before bottling
• 5 g/L maximum residual sugar

Montlouis-sur-Loire Vin Mousseux à Fermentation Unique AOC wines are described as having aromas of white-fleshed fruit and white flowers, accompanied by “elegant and creamy bubbles” as well as a rich texture—all due to the unique production process. These wines are intended to reflect the distinctive character of a particular place and time and as such, vintage dating is mandatory.

Note: I’ve seen many reports claiming that this is an “official” version of pétillant naturel wines. This statement could be interpreted as partially true (except for the issue with mandatory disgorgement). In addition, the term pétillant naturel is not a part of the Cahier des Charges.

References/for more information:

• Cahier des Charges Montlouis sur Loire published June 18 2020

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

For generations, it was assumed that Corvinone—the big-berried, dark blue-black grape grown sparsely throughout Veneto—was a roly-poly mutation of the locally renowned Corvina grape variety. Thus, it was given the name Corvinone—”big Corvina”—and tolerated for use (in limited quantities) alongside Corvina in some of the red wines of the region, namely the Valpolicellas and the Bardolinos.

However, in 1993, S. Cancellier and U. Angelini—as published in the Vignevini Journal of the University of Bologna—gave the world proof that Corvinone is a separate grape variety. Corvinone is, they stated, most likely related to Corvina, but distinct, nonetheless.

According to Italy’s Registro Nazionale delle Variet di Vite, Corvinone tends to break bud fairly late, experience medium timing in flowering and veraison, and is a medium-to-late ripener (germogliamento: tardiva, fioritura: media, invaiatura: media, naturazione: medio-tardiva). Both the bunches and the individual grape berries are noted for being large in size and distinctly larger than Corvina. Corvinone is quite able to respond to water stress and takes well to drying; for this reason, it often goes through the appassimento process for use in Amarone and Recioto.

I have never encountered a varietal Corvinone wine, although they are allowed (at least in theory) to be produced under the IGT Veneto, IGT Vallagarina, or IGT Verona.  These wines might show the typical primary aromas of Corvinone, including red and black fruits such as cherry, raspberry, and blackberry; floral notes (violet), cocoa, and tobacco.

We are not quite sure from where the name Corvina, and thus Corvinone, is derived. However, many experts suggest that the grapes were named for their dark blue-black color, reminiscent of the color of the feathers of a raven (corvo in Italian).

For super-advanced students of wine: Late last year, the disciplinari for the wines of Valpolicella (Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG, Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG, Valpolicella DOC,  and Valpolicella Ripasso DOC) were all revised to allow 45% to 95% Corvina OR Corvinone grapes in the wines. You might recall that, up until this change, the allowed amount of Corvinone was limited to no more than 50% of the amount of Corvina used. This limitation has been now removed for all the variants of Valpolicella. The allowance for Bardolino DOC and Bardolino Superiore DOCG remains unchanged for now (35% to 80% Corvina, of which 20% may be replaced by Corvinone).

References/for more information:

• Robinson, Jancis, Julia Harding, and José Vouillamoz: Wine Grapes. New York, 2012: Harper Collins Publishers
• Robinson, Jancis and Julia Harding: The Oxford Companion to Wine, 4th Edition. Oxford, 2015: The Oxford University Press.
• Disciplinare – Amarone della Valpolicella updated 2019
• Cancellier, S & Angelini, U (1993). “Corvina veronese e Corvinone: Due varietà diverse”. Vignevini-Bologna. Edagricole SPA. 20: 44
• https://www.wine-searcher.com/grape-2190-corvinone
• http://catalogoviti.politicheagricole.it/scheda.php?codice=328

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Photo of Clos Montmartre by Par Son of Groucho via Wikimedia Commons

On May 25, 2020, France’s Bulletin Officiel du Ministère de l’Agriculture et de l’Alimentation (Official bulletin of the Ministry of Agriculture and Food) announced the approval of the Île-de-France Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) for red, white, and rosé wines.

Wine produced from grapes grown anywhere within the Île de France administrative region will be eligible. Aisne, a department located in the neighboring Hauts-de-France region is also included in the defined area. More specifically, the Île de France PGI includes five sub-appellations:

• Coteaux de Blunay—covering the commune of Melz-sur-Seine, located on the eastern border of the Île de France (about 50 miles southeast of Paris)
• Coteaux de Suresnes-Mont-Valérien—Suresnes is a commune in the western suburbs of Paris, located about 9 km/5.3 miles from the Paris city center
• Coteaux de Provins—covering the commune of Provins, located about 10 miles northwest of Melz-sur-Seine
• Guérard—covering the communes of communes de Guérard, Tigeaux et Crécy-la-Chapelle (located about 28 miles west of Paris, and just a few miles from Disneyland Paris)
• Paris—covering the city of Paris, including its famous Montmarte Vineyard

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A long list of grape varieties are permitted—33 white varieties, 8 pink (gris/rose) varieties, and 30 red varieties. Most or all of the grapes you would think of as typical French varieties—including Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Chenin Blanc, Gamay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Sauvignon Blanc—are included in the list. Some unique grapes—such as Meslier Saint-François, Chasselas, Mûller-Thurgau, Romorantin, and César. (For a complete list, see the Cahier des Charges, linked below.)

The Île-de-France  PGI title is approved for still (non-sparkling) wines and includes allowances for primeur or nouveau wines to be released on the third Thursday of November (of the harvest year).

Wine-producing vineyards in and around the city of Paris were widespread in the 18^th century and at one time occupied 42,000 hectares (103,000 acres) of land. These vineyards all but disappeared after the Second World War; but were brought back to life in 1933 with the planting of 2,00 vines in the Clos de Montmartre vineyard. Clos de Montmartre—the famous “urban vineyard” of Paris—is located on the north side of the Hill of Montmartre just a short walk from the Basilica of Sacré-Cœur de Montmartre.

Later—in 1965—the Municipal Vineyard of Suresnes/Clos-du-Pas Saint Maurice was replanted on the crest of Mont-Valérien, just across the Seine River from the Bois de Boulogne Park in Paris’ 16^th arrondissement. Today, the vineyard produces an average of 4,500 bottles of white wine per year and is an under-the-radar “find” for smart (or lucky) tourists.

With this announcement, we can be certain to find PGI wines from the Île-de-France in our local neighborhood wine shops soon (that is, as long as your local neighborhood wine shop is located somewhere in or close to Paris).

Welcome to the World, Île-de-France PGI!

References/for more information:

• Cahier des Charges IGP Ile de France
• https://info.agriculture.gouv.fr/gedei/site/bo-agri/historique/28-05-2020
• https://www.vitisphere.com/news-88788-Paris-has-its-own-geographical-indication.htm?fbclid=IwAR3TEfLuOoIQOOAUgtxw22ywHKQBPWof_smZ6Wm6ZcZRG4pefZA0U1_Vz_8
• https://france3-regions.francetvinfo.fr/paris-ile-de-france/paris/grand-paris/vins-franciliens-obtiennent-enfin-indication-geographique-protegee-1788151.html?fbclid=IwAR3VLDWxKIYzeXWimVh8pCu4FSsq_9xEM-JUr5N4WABKHr4t1lS0tkA4AR8
• https://www.paris-bistro.com/vin/bacchus-a-paris/vignerons-franciliens-reunis
• https://en.suresnes-tourisme.com/vineyard-of-suresnes.html
• https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vignoble_d%27%C3%8Ele-de-France

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

News flash: The Anjou Villages-Brissac AOC has officially changed its name to Anjou Brissac AOC. (Well, that’s a bit of a minor news flash—maybe more like a news sparkle—but wine geeks will want to know.)

Photo of Château de Brissac by Manfred Heyde via Wikimedia Commons

The Anjou Brissac AOC produces dry, still (non-sparkling) red wines only. These are defined quite elegantly in French as vins tranquilles rouges. These wines are based primarily on Cabernet Franc (which leads the area in plantings), although Cabernet Sauvignon is also allowed in any amount. The wines of the Brissac Anjou AOC enjoy a reputation as perhaps the finest red wines of the Anjou, and are considered to be a bit fuller-bodied and richer in flavors (dark cherry, raspberry, cocoa, cinnamon) than most red wines of the Anjou. Anjou Brissac AOC wines are proudly produced by a limited number of wineries (around 30).

The Anjou Brissac AOC is located just south of the city of Angers, adjacent to the left bank of the Loire River. The area extends southwest for just over 9 kilometers (5.5 miles) over the gently rolling hills on the edge of the Massif Armorican. Vineyards are planted along both sides of the Aubance River (a tributary of the Loire). The unique soils of the area comprise mainly schist and gravel over a bedrock of shale and limestone.

If you are planning on touring the area, be sure and make some time to see the Château de Brissac. The château was originally built as a castle by the Counts of Anjou in the 11th century. It was later gifted to Charles II de Cossé along with the title of Duke of Brissac.  The château—still owned by the Cossé-Brissac family—has seven stories, making it the tallest château in the Loire Valley. In non-quarantine times, the château is open to the public for tours and overnight stays, while the lovely grounds frequently host concerts and festivals—including the annual Val de Loire festival.

Map via: https://www.vinsvaldeloire.fr/

Here are a few other interesting tidbits about Anjou Brissac:

• The Anjou Brissac AOC occupies the exact same geographic location as the Coteaux de l’Aubance AOC. The Coteaux de l’Aubance AOC produces Chenin Blanc-based, sweet white wines.
• The area covered by the Anjou Brissac AOC (as well as the Coteaux de l’Aubance AOC) is located within the Maine-et-Loire département, and includes the following communes: Brissac Loire Aubance (comprising the former communes of Brissac-Quincé, Saint-Saturnin-sur-Loire, and Vauchrétien), Denée, Les Garennes sur Loire (comprising the former communes of Juigné-sur-Loire et Saint-Jean-des-Mauvrets), Mozé-sur-Louet, Mûrs-Erigné, Saint-Melaine-sur-Aubance, and Soulaines-sur-Aubance
• The appellation was created (as Anjou Villages Brissac) in 1998, when it was separated out from the much larger Anjou Villages AOC.

Regulations on the wines:

• Minimum 11% abv
• Maximum 3g/L of residual sugar
• May be released on July 15 of the year following harvest (although the wine is considered to have excellent potential for aging)

Leading producers of Anjou Brissac AOC include Domaine de Gaubourg, Château la Varière, and Domaine de Montgilet.

Confusion Corner: This change does not affect the Anjou Villages AOC which (confusingly) is a separate appellation from the (former) Anjou Villages Brissac AOC.

References/for more information:

• Cahier des Charges Anjou Brissac AOC
• Map AOC Anjou Brissac via INAO (map still reads “Anjou Villages Brissac”)
• https://www.vinsvaldeloire.fr/en/wine/anjou-villages-brissac
• https://chateau-brissac.fr/?lang=en
• http://domainedegaubourg.com/domaine.html
• http://www.chateaulavariere.com/
• http://www.montgilet.com/?lang=en

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

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In March of 2020, Spain’s Ministry of Agriculture approved a proposal to modify the Pliego de Condiciones for the DO Ribera del Duero. The new rules allow for the production of white wines based on the Albillo Mayor grape variety to be bottled under the Ribera del Duero DO, beginning with the 2020 vintage.

The Ribera del Duero DO—located in Castilla y León—was established in 1982 and quickly made a name for its flavorful red wines based on a minimum of 75% Tempranillo (often referred to here as Tinta del País or Tinto Fino). The red wines of the area always allowed for the inclusion of up to 5% Albillo Mayor—a white grape believed to be native to the area and grown in minute quantities but renowned for the rich aromatic notes and softening effect the it brought to the red wines of the region. Rosado is also produced in the area, often based on Garnacha with perhaps a bit of Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon or Albillo Mayor in the blend.

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With the newly-published revisions in the rules, the Ribera del Duero DO is now producing white wines—known as Ribera Blanco—based on a minimum of 75% Albillo Mayor. The other white grapes allowed include Alarije (Pirulés) and Chasselas—provided they were planted prior to July 21, 1982.

Ribera Blanco may be produced via stainless steel fermentation as a light, fruity wine intended for early consumption. Such wines have been described as having delicate fruit flavors (green apple, lemon, pear) and lightly floral aromas.

Ribera Blanco may also be produced via oak fermentation and/or oak aging; and may be bottled under the typical aging designation for Spanish DOP wines (crianza, reserva, and gran reserva). Such wines are expected to show hints of gold or amber in the color and exhibit aromas of ripe pear, dried fruit, oak, smoke, beeswax, and vanilla.

The proposal to allow for the production of Ribera Blanco was originally published by El Boletín Oficial del Estado (BOE) of Spain on July 27, 2019. While the new DO regulations have been approved at the national level, they will still need to work their way through the EU approval process.

Map via: riberadelduero.es

References/for more information:

• Pliego de Condiciones – DO Ribera del Duero – updated March 2020
• Press Kit – Ribera Blanco
• https://www.mapa.gob.es/es/alimentacion/temas/calidad-agroalimentaria/calidad-diferenciada/dop/vcprd/DOP_ribera-duero.aspx

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Map of the traditional regions of Soave/credit: Casa del Vino (own work) via Wikimedia Commons

Soave DOC—Veneto’s beloved Garganega-based white wine—has entered a new phase with the approval of 33 new subzones. The new geographical indications were approved by the Italian Ministry of Agriculture in October of 2019—and as of March 2020, they have been approved and published in the Official Journal of the European Union.

The Soave zone has traditionally contained two subzones: Soave Classico and Soave Colli Scaligeri. The Classico zone—the original, central part of the region located about 10 miles east of the city of Verona—consists of an expanse of rolling hills within the communes of Soave and Monteforte d’Alpone. The discontinuous Colli Scaligeri subzone contains a series of hillsides surrounding the city of Verona. The name is a reference to the Della Scala family (the Scaligeri)—former Lords of Verona and once-upon-a-time owners of the land.

Vigne del Soave—a comprehensive project to map the Soave region by soil types, elevation, micro-climate, topography, and historical usage—has been in the works via the Soave Consortium for over a decade. The project was completed in 2019 with the formal designation of 33 unique geographical subzones officially known as “Additional Geographical Units” or Unità Geografica Aggiuntiva.  

Photo via: https://ilsoave.com/

The 33 new Crus of Soave are as follows: Castelcerino, Colombara, Froscà, Fittà, Foscarino, Volpare, Tremenalto, Carbonare, Tent, Corte Durlo, Rugate, Croce, Costalunga, Coste, Zoppega, Menini, Monte Grande, Ca ‘del Vento, Castellaro, Pressoni, Broia, Brognoligo, Costalta , Paradiso, Costeggiola, Casarsa, Monte di Colognola, Campagnola, Pigno, Duello, Sengialta, Ponsarà, Roncà–Monte Calvarina.

Of the 33 newly-designated areas, 28 are located within the Classico Zone. Two—resting atop volcanic soils—are located near the commune of ​​Roncà (to the north and east of the Classico Zone), and three are in the limestone hills located in the western portion of the region.

The new designations are approved for use beginning with the wines of the 2019 vintage.

Click here for an interactive map of the 33 crus of Soave, via the website of the Consorzio Soave.

References/for more information:

• Click here for a 3-D tour of the Crus of Soave, via Pierre Le Hong
• The Soave Consortium https://ilsoave.com/
• https://ilsoave.com/en/the-cru-map/
• Disciplinaire – Soave DOC updated as of November 2019
• EU Journal March 5 2020 – Soave Subzones Approved
• https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/PDF/?uri=CELEX:52020XC0305(04)&from=EN
• https://ilsoave.com/en/the-european-union-makes-the-soave-crus-official/

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org