Wine, Wit, and Wisdom

Photo via: Vinos de Jerez (www.sherry.wine)

As anyone who has been watching the news of the wine world knows, the Jerez-Xérès-Sherry Denominación de Origin (DO) has been undergoing a bit of a renaissance over the last few years. Recent updates to the classic wine region include a few newly-approved grape varieties in the wines of the region, a recently revised category of Sherry (Fino Viejo), and a long list of official sub-zones and smaller geographical units in the “fine print” of the appellation.

As of July 29, (2025), we have yet another new development in the regulations of the Jerez-Xérès-Sherry DO: unfortified wine. (Note: fortification refers to the addition of alcohol, typically grape spirit or wine spirit, to a wine for the purpose of increasing its alcohol by volume/abv.)

Until now, Sherry has famously been known as a fortified wine (also known as vino generoso or liqueur wine). While most Sherry will undoubtedly remain as a fortified wine, the new rules allow unfortified wines to be bottled under the auspices of the Jerez-Xérès-Sherry DO if they obtain a minimum of 15% abv (by natural means). The following types of Sherry may be bottled as unfortified wine (while the allowance for fortified styles remains): Fino, Amontillado, Oloroso, and Palo Cortado.

• According to the proposed amendment to the Pliego de Condiciones for the Jerez-Xérès-Sherry DO (submitted to the EU in 2022), the reasoning behind this change includes the following:
  • Due to the conditions brought about by climate change, the wines of the region often reach natural alcoholic strengths of close to or even above 15 % after the conclusion of primary fermentation.
  • The use of the traditional practice of asoleo (drying the grape bunches in the sun after harvesting) may provide the grapes (must) with the natural means to reach 15% abv via primary fermentation, reducing the need for fortification.
  • The absence of fortification has been found to have no impact on the organoleptic characteristics of the wines as described in the specification.

We’ll be on the lookout for more updates, and for unfortified Sherry to hit the shelves!

Note: This update also applies to the Manzanilla-Sanlúcar de Barrameda DO.

References/for more information:

• EU Commission Implementing Decision-Unfortified Sherry-2025
• Revised Jerez-Sherry Pliego EU 2025

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Map of Calabria via Federdoc. The new Cirò Classico DOCG will encompass the coastal areas of the Cirò DOC (#2)

Wine students of the world, heads up! Italy has officially announced a new Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita: Cirò Classico DOCG! The application for this appellation has been in the works for about three years, and on July 18 (2025), the EU made it official.

This is Italy’s 78^th DOCG wine to date, and the first for the region of Calabria. Cirò Classico DOCG is, in effect a well-aged and tightly regulated version of the red wines of the Cirò DOC hailing from that appellation’s most historic (Classico) vineyards.

Cirò Classico DOCG is approved for dry red wines only. According to the standards of production, it must appear “ruby red in color, with a tendency to turn garnet with age.” Aromas should be “intense and complex, with aromas of red fruit,” while the flavor should be “dry, full-bodied, harmonious, and lingering.”

• Other production standards for Cirò Classico DOCG include the following:
  • Vineyard Area: limited to the municipalities of Cirò and Cirò Marina, located along the coastal hills bordering the Ionian Sea
  • Grape varieties: minimum 90% Gaglioppo; up to 10% Magliocco and/or Greco Nero
  • Minimum alcohol by volume: 13%
  • Aging: The wine must be aged for a minimum of 36 months before being released to distribution; this age is to be calculated beginning on January 1 of the year following the harvest. Of the total aging period, a minimum of 6 months must occur in wood.
  • Production, aging, and bottling must occur within the designated production zone.

Welcome to the world, Cirò Classico DOCG! We can’t wait to find a bottle!

References/for more information:

• Disciplinare Ciro Classico DOCG In Italian
• EU Council Implementing Decision-Ciro Classicox
• Proposal to the EU-Ciro Classico DOCG
• Calabria, via Federdoc

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Map via: consorziovinonobile.it/zonazione-en

Newsflash: twelve new pievi (zones) have been approved within Italy’s Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG. The update will be official as of the 2021 vintage, with the first pieve-specific wines hitting the shelves later this year.

This update was first announced several years ago and ratified within Italy as of February of this year. Finally, the EU granted their approval and published an updated disciplinare in the EU Journal on May 15, 2025. It’s now official all-around.

Located within Tuscany’s province of Siena, the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG (established in 1980) is approved for dry red wines produced using a minimum of 70% Sangiovese grapes (known locally as Prugnolo Gentile). With this newly-approved amendment, the appellation now allows for three quality levels, each with increasingly stringent standards as to yield, alcohol levels, and aging (among other requirements). These three levels are: normale (an unofficial term but often used to refer to any wine without one of the two specific terms that follow), riserva, and pieve.

Logo via: consorziovinonobile.it/

For reference, here is a quick comparison of some of the appellation’s standards:

• Varietal composition:
  • Normale: Minimum 70% Sangiovese (Prugnolo Gentile)
  • Riserva: Minimum 70% Sangiovese (Prugnolo Gentile)
  • Pieve:  Minimum 85% Sangiovese (Prugnolo Gentile)
• Minimum alcohol by volume (abv):
  • Normale: 12.5%
  • Riserva: 13%
  • Pieve: 13%
• Maximum yield:
  • Normale: 8,000 kilograms of grapes per hectare
  • Riserva: 8,000 kilograms of grapes per hectare
  • Pieve: 7,000 kilograms of grapes per hectare
• Aging:
  • Normale: Minimum aging of at least two years; of these, at least one year must be in wooden containers
  • Riserva: Minimum aging of at least three years; of these, at least six months must be in the bottle
  • Pieve: Minimum aging of at least three years; of these, at least one year must be in wooden containers and at least one year must be in the bottle

The 12 pievi are based on the traditional parishes of Montepulciano, many of which date back to the 1700s. To use a specific pieve on label, the vines must be at least 15 years old and the wine must be made from grapes grown exclusively within the designated pieve.  The new pievi are as follows: Ascianello, Badia, Caggiole, Cerliana, Cervognano, Gracciano, Le Grazie, San Biagio, Sant’Albino, Sant’Ilario, Valardegna, and  Valiano.

We’ll be on the lookout for Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG labeled with a specific pieve to be released later this year!

References/for more information:

• EU Journal – Vino Nobile di Montepulciano May 2025
• Disciplinare Vino Nobile de Montepulciano 2025
• Website of the Consorzio del Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Map via the Ontario Wine Regulation Authority

The West Niagara VQA (as defined by the Vintners Quality Alliance) has been approved as a regional appellation located within Canada’s Niagara Peninsula wine region. As such, it joins the previously approved regional designations of Niagara Escarpment VQA and Niagara-on-the-Lake VQA as the third regional appellation within the larger Niagara Peninsula VQA. These and other appellations in Ontario are defined and enforced by the Ontario Wine Appellation Authority.

The West Niagara VQA encompasses much of the vineyard area of the Niagara Peninsula located to the west of the city of St. Catharines and the Welland Canal. It contains several (previously approved) VQAs as sub-appellations. These include those within the regional Niagara Escarpment VQA (including Beamsville Bench VQA, Twenty Mile Bench VQA, and Short Hills Bench VQA), as well as Lincoln Lakeshore VQA, Creek Shores VQA, and Vinemount Ridge VQA.

The West Niagara VQA is a large area that includes rolling hills, steep cliffs, south-facing ridges, and the Lake Ontario shoreline. While the topography is diverse, the vineyards are collectively influenced by proximity to the Niagara Escarpment, the Niagara River, and Lake Ontario. Situated at 43°N latitude, the West Niagara Region enjoys an overall cool climate (somewhat moderated by Lake Ontario) along with a long growing season characterized by substantial sunshine.

The West Niagara VQA contains close to 40 wineries. The leading grape varieties include Riesling, Chardonnay, Vidal Blanc, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon.

References/for more information:

• The website of the Ontario Wine Appellation Authority

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

You may love it, or you may hate it—but if you know Lambrusco well, you probably love it. While the category suffers somewhat from an old-fashioned (and undeserved) reputation painting it as an always sweet, sometimes sticky and weirdly bubbly red—the truth is quite different. High-quality Lambrusco exists, and it can be red or rosé, spumante or frizzante, and is typically dry (although you may stumble upon an off-dry version if you try).

These refined versions of Lambrusco have been around a while and, beginning this year, another has emerged: Lambrusco di Sorbara Bianco Spumante DOC—a white Lambrusco. While other regions are expanding their repertoire to include rosé, Lambrusco has added white wine to theirs. While the grapes used in the production of Lambrusco are red, it is possible to squeeze the white(-ish) juice away from the red grape skins before any color extraction takes hold and produce a white wine from red grapes. Champagne (that other well-known sparkling wine) famously uses this method in the production of blanc de noirs.

Image via: https://www.opiciwinesandspirits.com/

Lambrusco di Sorbara is produced in the commune of Modena, located somewhat in the center of the province of Emilia-Romagna and stretching across part of the Po River Valley into the foothills of the Apennines. The appellation is named for a grape variety—Lambrusco di Sorbana—which must comprise at least 60% of the blend. Lambrusco Salamino may be included up to a maximum of 40%, while other Lambrusco varieties may be included in small amounts (up to 15%).

According to the updated disciplinare (rules of the appellation), the wines of the Lambrusco di Sorbara Bianco Spumante DOC are described as “refined and elegant (fully) sparkling white wines of high quality.” These wines may be produced using the tank method, or via the medoto classico (classic method of sparkling wine production, indicating that the second fermentation occurs in the bottle rather than a tank).

In addition, the wine is produced according to the following specifications:

• Appearance: fine and long-lasting bubbles, straw-yellow color in varying levels of intensity
• Aromas: fruity, floral, and intense
• Sweetness: Various levels of sweetness are allowed and will be designated as such on the label
• Minimum abv: 11%
• It is permitted for the wine to remain non-disgorged. Such wines will appear slightly cloudy and may contain the term rifermentazione in bottiglia (secondary fermentation in the bottle) on the label.

Welcome to the world, Lambrusco di Sorbara Bianco Spumante DOC!

TL/DR—News flash for wine students: The Lambrusco di Sorbara DOC has approved a new style of wine for the appellation—a white sparkling wine to be known as Lambrusco di Sorbara Bianco Spumante DOC

References/for more information:

• Official Journal of the EU – Lambrusco di Sorbara DOC-March 2025
• Disciplinare – Lambrusco di Sorbara DOC – updated 2025
• Click here for a wine map of Emilia Romagna, via Federdoc

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Photo via: www.fincarionegro.com

Spain’s Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food (Ministerio de Agricultura, Pesca y Alimentación, MAPA) has announced the approval of a new Denominación de Origen Protegida (PDO) for wine: the Vino de Pago Río Negro! As of March 20 (2025) the EU has also announced its approval of the new appellation. At last count, this makes for a new total of 27 vinos de pago for Spain.

The new appellation is located across the municipalities of Cogolludo, San Andrés, and Membrillera within the autonomous community (comunidad autónoma) of Castilla–La Mancha.

The area is defined by the steeply rising Rio Negro Plateau, with vineyards planted at 940 meters/3,085 feet to 1,000 meters/3,280 feet above sea level. The area enjoys a warm continental climate (with some Mediterranean influences), soils rich in clay, and a good diurnal temperature fluctuation. The areas surrounding the vines are composed of woodlands and scrublands which help to moderate the temperature and lend biodiversity to the region.

Photo via: www.fincarionegro.com

The Vino de Pago Río Negro is approved for the production of dry red wines (produced using a short list of allowed grapes) and dry white (100% Gewürztraminer) wines. All wines bearing the Vino de Pago Río Negro designation must be aged before being released to the market. The allowed list of grape varieties—along with other defined characteristics of the wine—is very specific, as discussed below:

• White wine (Blanco/Gewürztraminer):
  • Authorized grape variety: Gewürztraminer
  • Minimum alcohol by volume (abv) in the finished wine: 12%
  • Grapes must be de-stemmed
  • At least 50% of the grapes must undergo a period of pre-fermentation skin contact. They are then pressed and clarified by cold settling, and subsequent vinification takes place at very low temperatures, around 15 C (60F).
  • Ageing requirements: must be aged on the lees (in stainless steel or oak) for a minimum of 3 months; this must be followed by at least 1 month in the bottle and at least a further 1 month in the bottle

• Red wine (Tinto):
  • Authorized grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Tempranillo, and/or Tinto Fragoso
  • Red wines may be monovarietal or blends (multivarietal)
  • Minimum alcohol by volume (abv) in the finished wine: 13%
  • All grapes (whether de-stemmed or whole cluster) must undergo a pre-fermentation cold maceration (cold soak) for a period of between 3 and 21 days
  • Ageing requirements: minimum ageing of 11 months, of which at least 5 months must be in oak vessels (casks or barrels of varying sizes) followed by bottle ageing for at least a further 6 months

Photo via: www.fincarionegro.com

Bodegas Finca Río Negro—founded in 1988—is the sole producer of these wines. Their website has a wealth of information concerning the wines and the region.

Welcome to the world, Vino de Pago Río Negro!

References/for more information:

• Rio Negro PDO
• Pliego des Condiciones Vino de Pago Rio Negro (in Spanish)
• The website of Bodegas Finca Río Negro
• EU Council Implementing Decision Vino de Pago Rio Negro

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Graphic via https://miconsejo.dovaldeorras.com

The Valdeorras DO—tucked into the mountains of the Serra do Courel and the Serra dos Ancares on the eastern edge of Galicia—was established in 1957. Since this time, it has been known primarily for crisp white wines produced from the relatively obscure (yet delicious) Godello grape variety.

In addition to varietal Godello and sparkling wines, the Valdeorras DO produces red wines based around Mencía (often supplemented with a splash of Tempranillo or Garnacha among other approved varieties). Other products of the DO include a dried-grape wine known as tostado as well as castes nobles wine made using grapes from a short list of preferred varieties, including Godello, Loureira, Treixadura, Dona Branca, Albarino, Torrontes, Mencía, Tempranillo, and Garnacha.

Other grapes (and blends) are approved for use in the more generic wines of the region, known as Valdeorras Blanco (for the whites) and Valdeorras Tinto (for the reds).

And now for the news: as of February 28 (2025), the EU has approved the production of rosé wine in the appellation, to be known as Valdeorras Rosado. According to the notice published in the EU Journal, rosado has traditionally been produced in the area, and renewed interest in lighter (and lower alcohol) wines has driven demand and appreciation of these local (pink) wines.

• Regulations concerning Valdeorras Rosado include the following guidelines:
  • Minimum 10.5% abv
  • Color: pink to cherry red in color, clear and bright
  • Aromas: intense aromas of ripe red fruit
  • Palate: red fruit flavors with a long finish and balance structure
  • Allowed grape varieties include: Mencía, Tempranillo, Merenzao, Brancellao, Sousón, Caiño Tinto, Espadeiro, Ferrón, Garnacha Tintorera (Alicante Bouschet), Gran Negro, and Mouratón

We look forward to trying these wines! Welcome to the world, Valdeorras Rosado!

References/for more information:

• Publication in the EU Journal re Valdeorras DO 2025
• Valdeorras DO Pliego di Condiciones update 2025
• Geography of Galicia via Wikipedia

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Brilliant, crisp, and flavorful, Fiano di Avellino is one of Italy’s finest white wines. Produced in Campania, it is considered one of the best expressions of the Fiano grape variety—native to Southern Italy and known for its fruity, nutty, and floral character.

Fiano di Avellino—designated as a DOCG white wine of Italy since 2003—is required to be produced using a minimum of 85% Fiano grapes. Small amounts of Trebbiano Toscano, Coda di Volpe, and/or Greco are allowed as accessory varieties. Fiano di Avellino DOCG is a dry, complex, and harmonious white wine and—with a minimum of one year of aging—may be labeled as Fiano di Avellino Riserva DOCG.

In addition to these well-loved still (non-sparkling) white wines, the Fiano di Avellino DOCG now allows for the production of sparkling (spumante) wines within the appellation. Based on the same grape varieties, Fiano di Avellino Spumante DOCG and Fiano di Avellino Spumante Riserva DOCG will soon be available.

According to the revised disciplinare for the appellation, the region has a long history and tradition of sparkling wine production, and the Fiano grape variety has a natural proclivity for use in sparkling wine. The requirements for Fiano di Avellino Spumante DOCG include the following:

• Grape Varieties: minimum 85% Fiano, with an allowed 15% (max) Trebbiano Toscano, Coda di Volpe, and/or Greco
• Production method: it is mandatory that the traditional method of sparkling wine production be followed (indicating that second fermentation occurs within the bottle)
• Alcohol content: minimum 12% abv
• Style: May be vintage (millesimato) or non-vintage; sweetness levels may range from dry (zero dosage) to sweet
• Aging—Fiano di Avellino Spumante DOCG: a minimum of 9 months aging on the lees as well as a total of 18 months aging in the bottle before release
• Aging—Fiano di Avellino Spumante Riserva DOCG: a minimum of 9 months aging on the lees as well as a total of 36 months aging in the bottle before release

We will keep an eye out for the first release of Fiano di Avellino Spumante DOCG! Looking forward to trying it!

Note: this update was approved by the EU in June of 2025 and published via a Commission Implementing Regulation in the Journal of the European Union on June 3, 2025.

References/for more information:

• Disciplinare—Fiano de Avellino DOCG updated to include sparkling wine
• Council Implementing Decision-EU

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org