Wine, Wit, and Wisdom

Base map via the TTB AVA Explorer

On August 30, 2024, the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States approved the San Luis Rey American Viticultural Area (AVA). The new AVA is located in California’s San Diego County, entirely within the previously established South Coast AVA. The AVA extends from the coastal city of Oceanside inland to the Merriman Mountains and Moosa Canyon.

The area is named for the San Luis Rey River, which runs through the northern edge of the area and drains into the Pacific Ocean; and for Mission San Luis Rey—founded in 1798 and built close to the banks of the river. The defining characteristics of the San Luis Rey AVA include the area’s topography, climate, and soil. These features are discussed below.

Topography and Climate: The San Luis Rey AVA sits at relatively low elevations (the mean elevation is 563 feet above sea level) and is located close to the Pacific Coastline. This situation allows cool ocean breezes to flow through the region, thus creating an overall cool, maritime climate. The average annual maximum temperature of the San Luis Rey AVA is significantly cooler than the surrounding areas (including the Temecula Valley AVA, San Pasqual Valley AVA, and Ramona Valley AVA).

Base map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Soil: Compared with the surrounding area, the bedrock supporting the San Luis Rey AVA is generally older and richer in sandy loam (an ideal texture for commercial viticulture, and a point of differentiation and potential advantage over much of the rest of the South Coast AVA).  Soil parent materials include granite, sandstone and quartz.

The San Luis Rey AVA covers a total of approximately 97,733 acres, with 256 acres currently planted to vineyards (with another 29 acres of planned vineyards). There are 44 commercial vineyards and just over 20 bonded wineries—including Fallbrook Winery and Lionsgate Estate Winery—located within the region. The leading grape varieties include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, and Grenache.

When the San Luis Rey AVA is brought into force—on September 30, 2024—the total number of AVAs in the United States will be 274. Of these, 153 will be in California.

Welcome to the world, San Luis Rey AVA!

References/for more information:

• TTB – Final Rule – San Luis Rey AVA
• Petition-San Luis Rey AVA

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

As of July 2024, the INAO (Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité of France) has approved the production of Pinot Noir-based red wines in the Alsace Grand Cru Vorbourg AOC. As such, Vorbourg becomes the third Alsatian Grand Cru approved for the production of red wines. Two others—Alsace Grand Cru Hengst and Alsace Grand Cru Kirchberg de Barr—were approved for the production of Pinot Noir in May of 2022. The remaining 48 Grands Crus of Alsace remain approved only for white wines.

Vorbourg—largely planted to Gewurztraminer—is located near the southern end of the Haut-Rhin Départment, tucked alongside several other Alsace Grands Crus in the eastern slopes of the Vosges Mountains. Vorbourg (covering about 180 acres/73 hectares) contains one of the region’s most famous walled vineyards—the Clos Saint Landelin, owned by the Mure family.

Located just north of the Ohmbach River, Vorbourg is composed mainly of a series of south- and southeast-facing slopes. This means the vines receive abundant sunshine, making it an ideal choice for ripening Pinot Noir in this overall cool-climate region. The soils of Vorbourg include granite and limestone on the hillsides, along with clay and loess closer to the river.

According to the Wines of Alsace (vinsalace) website, the white wines of Vorbourg are known for fruity aromas (citrus, peach, and pear), are full-bodied, and show a good deal of minerality. The red wine (Pinot Noir) has a deep red color, rich texture, fine tannins, and aromas of fruit, spice (anise), and mineral.

We look forward to trying a Grand Cru Pinot Noir from Vorbourg!

References/for more information:

• https://www.vinsalsace.com/en/grands-crus/vorbourg/
• Alsace Grand Cru—Vorbourg—July 2024 (Journal Officiel de la République Francaise, July 7 2024)
• Map of the Haut-Rhin via the INAO

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

The Vicenza DOC—established in 2000—is located somewhat in the center of Italy’s Veneto Region. It surrounds the city of Vicenza and covers most of the surrounding Vicenza Province. The Vicenza DOC overlaps the Gamberella DOC/Recioto di Gamberella DOCG as well as a portion of the Colli Berici DOC.

The Vicenza DOC stretches from Monti Berico—its highest point—in the northwest and extends across the flatter plains form by the Bacchiglione River. The finest vineyards in the appellation are considered the hillside vineyards in the north and west of the area.

The Vicenza DOC is approved for a long list of grape varieties and wine styles. These include red and white wines (in still, sparkling, frizzante, and passito styles) made from blends or varietals. The leading grape varieties of the include Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay, Moscato, Garganega, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir), among others.

• In addition to the previously approved wines, on as of July 2024, the EU as approved the following revisions to the wines allowed under the Vicenza DOC:
  • Pinot Grigio Superiore DOC: A new product—Vicenza Pinot Grigio Superiore DOC—has been approved and will be required to contain a minimum of 11.5% abv.
  • Rosato and Ramato approved: Vicenza Pinot Grigio will now be allowed to be produced via skin-contact and labeled as Pinot Grigio Rosato (rosé) and well as Pinot Grigio Ramato. In accordance with this change, the approved description of the color of Vicenza Pinot Grigio has been updated to read as follows: As implied by the change in name of the Vicenza Pinot Grigio  type to Vicenza Pinot Grigio / Pinot Grigio Rosato / Pinot Grigio Ramato, the description of the color also changes, from “from straw yellow to golden yellow, sometimes with hints of pink”’ to “from straw yellow to golden yellow, pink or copper.”

We look forward to tasting Vicenza Pinot Grigio Ramato  (or Rosato) in the near future!

Note: as is typical of appellation updates, this change has been approved by the local consortium, Italy’s National Wine Committee, and the EU. However, we have not yet seen an updated disciplinare uploaded to a public database. We have attached the proposal (which has been approved), below.

References/for more information:

• EU Journal-Vicenza-July 2024-English
• Website of the Colli Berici/Vincenza Consortium (in Italian)
• Vicenza DOC Disciplinare-proposed update 2024

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Newsflash from the Languedoc: The Corbières-Boutenac AOC has changed its name and will now be known as the Boutenac AOC. The wine producers of the Boutenac area submitted a proposal to change the name of the appellation back in September of 2022, and as of March 14, 2024, the EU has approved the modification.

To understand the Boutenac region, we need to first look at the larger, surrounding Corbières AOC. For starters, Corbières is one of the largest appellations in the Languedoc (along with Minervois) in terms of overall size, vineyard plantings, and production volume. A prodigious producer of red (rogue), white (blanc) and rosé wine, Corbières was granted it initial AOC designation in 1985. Since that time, the appellation has been updated several times; many changes involved its elaborate list of allowed grape varieties and the composition thereof. Others broke the large region into a bit more geographic specificity, and in 2005, the Boutenac region was spun-off into its own AOC, originally known as the Corbières-Boutenac AOC.

The Boutenac area—centered around the tiny town of Boutenac and located atop an elevated ridge of limestone about 30 kilometers/20 miles inland from the Mediterranean coast—consists of well-drained, low-nutrient soils. As wine lovers know, when these two features combine, they can produce some of the finest vineyard terroirs—and wine grapes—in the world.

As such, Boutenac has always enjoyed a reputation for high-quality wine. Additionally, it produces red wine only (as opposed to the extensive list of grapes and wine in play in the larger Corbières appellation). These factors are part of the ongoing efforts to seek out a separate identity for the Boutenac AOC apart from the larger Corbières appellation.

• The red wines of the Boutenac AOC are produced under the following regulations:
  • Dry, still (non-sparkling), red wines are the only wines allowed for production
  • It must be comprised of a minimum of 70% (combined) Carignan, Grenache (Noir), Mourvèdre, and Syrah.
  • In addition, Carignan must comprise a minimum of 30% of the blend, and no single variety may comprise more than 80% of the overall blend.
  • The wine must be aged (at least) until December 31 of th year following harvest to include at least two months in the bottle.

The red wines of the Boutenac AOC are described (in the cahier des charges) as being powerful and generous on the palate and having a red deep color with violet highlights as well as notes of spice and mature fruit.

We can’t wait to try Boutenac AOC!

References/for more information:

• Corbieres Boutenac Name Change Published
• Decision of the European Commission-AOC Boutenac

 Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Base map via the TTB AVA Explorer (click to enlarge)

On April 8 (2024), the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States announced the approval of the Comptche American Viticultural Area (AVA). The new AVA covers a small area within California’s Mendocino County.

The newly approved Comptche AVA is positioned within the boundaries of the existing North Coast AVA. However, it has been determined that the climate and soil of the area are distinctly different from those of the surrounding AVA. As such, the TTB has determined that the Comptche AVA is not to be considered a sub-appellation (or otherwise part of) the North Coast AVA. According to the TTB, this means that “vintners will not be able to use ‘‘North Coast’’ as an appellation of origin for wines made primarily from grapes grown anywhere in the Comptche AVA.”

According to the original petition, the distinguishing features of the Comptche Costa AVA include its topography, soils, and climate—as described below.

Topography: The Comptche AVA—located about 11 miles inland from the Pacific Coast—consists of a low-elevation valley surrounded by heavily forested lands and short, steep ridges. The elevation of the area within the appellation ranges from 187 to 400 feet asl, with all the commercial vineyards (at this time) planted at elevations ranging from 220 and 250 feet asl. This unique topography contributes to the area’s cool climate, as cool air sinks into the valley from the surrounding (higher) elevations at night.

Soils: There are two main soil types found in the Comptche AVA. The first—known as Bearwallow–Wolfey soil—is found on the rolling hillsides of the area as a type of well-drained, shallow, prone to erosion, and infertile soil resting atop fractured sandstone. The second—Perrygulch Loam—is found on the valley floor as a deep, rich, soil with a high clay content.

Base map via the TTB AVA Explorer (click to enlarge)

Climate: The Comptche AVA is a good deal cooler than the surrounding area and the other (previously established) AVAs in Mendocino County. According to the petition, the Comptche AVA is cool enough to be considered a “borderline” climate for the cultivation of wine grapes and only cold-hardy varieties will prove to be successful. As such, Pinot Noir is the only variety currently grown (for commercial purposes) in the area.

The Comptche AVA is further distinguished as it is one of the few areas in the coastal section of Mendocino County where non-timber related agricultural activity is permitted. The new AVA is surrounded by land designated as a Timberland Production Zone and zoned solely for the growing and harvesting of timber (for no less than ten years from the time it was so designated).

The Comptche AVA covers a total of 1,422 acres; of these, approximately 30 acres are planted with vineyards. There are currently three commercial vineyards in the area—all of which sell their grapes to local wines (as there are no wineries currently operating within the new AVA. When the Comptche AVA is brought into force—on May 8, 2024—the total number of AVAs in the United States will be 271; of these, 151 will be in California.

According to the good folks at Tripadvisor, the locals pronounce it with a silent t, as “comp-chee.” The name derives from the Pomo word Compatche, meaning in the valley among the hills.

Welcome to the world, Comptche AVA!

References/for more information:

• Federal Register-Establishment of the Comptche AVA
• Comptche AVA Proposal
• Proposal to remove comptche from the North Coast AVA

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Spain’s comunidad autónoma of Castilla-La Mancha has announced yet another new Denominación de Origen Protegida  (PDO) for wine: the Vino de Pago Rosalejo! As of March 15, (2024) the EU has announced its approval of the new appellation, which follows rather quickly on the heels of the announcement of another new appellation for Castilla-La Mancha—the Campo de Calatrava DO—approved just over a month ago.

The Vino de Pago Rosalejo is approved for red wines only. According to the Pliego de Condiciones, the wines are intended to be deeply hued with a ruby-red color, intense aromas of fruit, spice, and oak-derived toast, excellent structure, and balanced acidity.

• The standards regarding the wines of the Vino de Pago Rosalejo include the following:
  • Produced using Syrah, Garnacha Tinta, and Tempranillo
  • Minimum 12% alcohol by volume (abv)
  • Minimum 6 months aging in oak barrels, followed by a minimum of one month aging in the bottle
  • Maximum yield of 68 liters of wine per 100 kg of grapes
  • Alcoholic fermentation must take place at a controlled temperature
  • The finished wine must demonstrate a color intensity of at least 8 A.U. 

The Rosalejo PDO—located within the provinces of Ciudad Real and Toledo—is situated in the rolling hills of the Sierra de Sevilleja Mountains (part of the Montes de Toledo). The area rests atop well-drained, sandy soils derived from quartzite and granite. High levels of iron in the soil give the topsoil a distinctive orange-red hue. The minimum elevation of the vineyards is 650 meters/2,130 feet above sea level. There are currently 1,339 hectares/3,309 acres of qualified vineyards planted in the designation region.

The new appellation and its accompanying legislation will enter into force 20 days following its publication in the Official Journal of the European Union—this should be on or about April 12, 2024. We will post a map as soon as the newly crafted appellation creates one.

Welcome to the world, Vino de Pago Rosalejo!

References/for more information:

• Notice from Spain’s Ministry of Agriculture 
• EU Council Implementing Decision-Rosalejo PDO-March 2024
• Proposal Rosalejo-English
• Pliego de Condiciones Vino de Pago Rosalejo
• https://www.europapress.es/economia/noticia-ue-registra-nueva-dop-vino-pago-rosalejo-ubicada-anchuras-sevilleja-jara-20240325121401.html

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org