Conference Recap: Specifically Spirits

  By admin | April 29, 2019 - 8:08 am | , ,
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The SWE crew is just back from our first-ever “Specifically Spirits” mini-conference (held in Washington DC on April 26, 2019), and we are pleased to declare it a great success! We’d like to thank our attendees, many of whom were first-time participants in an SWE program. For those of you who couldn’t make it, here are a few of the highlights.

First up: “Herbs and Flowers, Weeds and Seeds: The Beauty of Botanicals” presented by Jane A. Nickles, CSE, CWE (yours truly). This session presented six botanically-infused spirits, while concentrating on the botanical components themselves. Attendees were each provided with nine (super-cute) labeled jars containing the botanicals and were encouraged to sniff, crush, and taste each one. The featured botanicals included juniper berry, coriander seed, angelica root, orris root, cardamom, cubeb berry, bergamot, rose hips, and allspice.

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Each botanical was introduced along with a little bit of scientific (botanical) information, its typical aroma/taste profile, and bits of its local lore. For instance, did you know that allspice is named for its aromas (described as a cross between cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, and clove), but was originally believed to be black pepper—which is while it is often referred to as pimento or pimienta? Or that orris root is the dried root of the lovely iris flower?

The spirits (and botanicals) tasted included the following: Bluecoat American Dry Gin (featuring juniper berry, coriander seed, and angelica root), Drumshanbo Slow Distilled Gunpowder Irish Gin (featuring orris root and cardamom), Bobby’s Schiedam Dry Gin (featuring cubeb berry), Sacred Rosehip cup (featuring rosehips), and Italicus Rosolio di Bergamotto (featuring Bergamotto di Reggio-Calabria). Attendees were gifted a “botanical aroma kit” featuring 10 glass vials with aromatic botanicals as well as a selection of botanical teas and candies.

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Next up was “American Spirit,” presented by Ben Coffelt, CSW and Shields Hood, CSS, CWE. This session traced the history of the United States along with the history of American whiskey. Here’s how Shields and Ben describe the session: George Washington’s presidency. The Civil War. The Railroad. The Industrial Revolution. World War II. Through almost every step of the American journey, one spirit has been our constant companion: whiskey. From early Monongahela ryes to our modern finished bourbons, attendees will learn about the role whiskey has played in American culture and history.

The whiskeys that were presented (and tasted) included the following: Henry McKenna 10 Year Single Barrel Bottled-in-Bond Kentucky Straight Bourbon, Old Forester 1920 Prohibition Style Kentucky Straight Bourbon, Jack Daniel’s Sinatra Select Tennessee Whiskey, Whistle Pig 10 Year Straight Rye Whiskey, and Wild Turkey Master’s Keep Revival Kentucky Straight Bourbon.

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Following lunch, attendees were treated to a session by the name of “That’s the Spirit 2019,” presented by Trudy Thomas, CSE, CSW. Trudy is the Director of Beverage operations at the Gaylord Opryland Resort and Conference Center, and her session revolved around the latest trends that she has observed throughout the resort’s more than twenty food and beverage outlets, as well as her in-depth knowledge of the industry as a whole.

The trends (and spirits) that were featured in Trudy’s session included the following: craft vermouth (featuring Trincheri Sweet Vermouth), drinking globally (featuring Roku Gin), American brandy (featuring Copper & Kings Brandy American Craft Brandy), private barrel programs (featuring Casa Noble Single Barrel Reposado Tequila), and the importance of the story behind the pour (featuring Piggyback Rye).

Our final session of the day was “Cognac: a Culmination of Excellence,” presented by Hugh Lander, CSS. Cognac has long had the reputation as the “king of brandies,” and its quality and complexity place it alongside the finest of fine whiskies. This information-packed session discussed just what it is that makes cognac unique among spirits—starting with the region, the climate, the crus, and the soils.

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Hugh was able to break down the seemingly complicated aging requirements for cognac, and the audience was fascinated to learn that the reason some aging designations are in English (such as VSOP – “very special old pale”) rather than French is that England was historically considered the main market for cognac—and even today a huge majority of cognac is exported (and not consumed by the French)! To wrap it up, we discussed how the numerous regulations cognac must adhere to are actually the result of centuries of best practice in winemaking, distillation, and aging. The cognacs sipped along the way included Courvoisier VS, Remy Martin VSOP, Remy Martin 1738 Accord Royal, and Remy Martin XO.

An hors d’oeuvre reception and walk-around tasting featuring a range of spirits as well as local distilleries provided the capstone to the day. Featured distilleries included One Eight Distilling (Washington DC), Catoctin Creek Distilling Company (Purcellville, VA), Falls Church Distillers (Falls Church, VA), New Columbia Distilling (Green Hat Gin/Washington DC), Republic Restoratives (Washington DC), and KO Distilling (Manassas, VA). In addition, the lovely Sharron McCarthy was on hand to pour a delicious and minty Florio Fernet from Sicily, Sartori di Verona Villa Marzia Limoncello, and Castello Banfi Tuscan Grappa.

And a good time was had by all!

Guest Post: Wine, Vocation, Authenticity

  By admin | April 27, 2019 - 9:20 am |
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Today we have a guest post written by Reverend Paul Bailey discussing wine, vocation, and authenticity. Read on for some excellent insight into all of the above!

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A Champagne does not, so far as I know, spend its life pining to become Madeira; even though both are superb wines.  And the people who make these wines clearly don’t get them mixed up. What they do is work with the wines in such a way that they become most fully what they are intended to be, not what something else is supposed to be.

A person making Madeira wants to make the best Madeira possible, I hope.  Winemakers want their fine wines to most winsomely express their terroir, their heritage, their nature as a particular grape.  And, if they are just making a wine to glug without thinking about it, to make the truest one of those.  What a winemaker wants to do, I hope, is encourage the raw product, the grape, to assume its authentic vocation, to become what the grape really wants to be in fullness, as it becomes wine.

The whole process teaches respect, for the grape, and for the people working with it, and for the earth that makes it all possible.  Authentic vocation is simply doing what you’re supposed to be doing, being who you are supposed to be, hearing one’s deepest interior calling and responding.

Van Gogh's Starry Night - Google Art Project/Public Domain

Van Gogh’s Starry Night – Google Art Project/Public Domain

There are a number of factors to an authentic vocation, but two seem to me prominent.  First, that what you are doing, who you are, is consistent with your personality, your talents, your skills, your hopes and dreams. 

I remember once standing awestruck in front of Van Gogh’s celebrated painting Starry Night and it became so clear that whatever else may have been going on with the artist, he was responding to the talents he had, the skills, the vision, the insistent longing to be a painter.  Troubled as Van Gogh was, he was nevertheless in that sense in harmony with himself, because he wasn’t working against himself, doing something that was at odds with what he longed for or could do. He wasn’t trying to do or to be something that wasn’t him.

Working in the wine world is a fairly esoteric occupation, and I imagine as a result that most people are involved in it because they want to be and are good at what they do.  But, who knows?   So just to ask:  in terms of occupation and just your personality, do you sense that you are living the life you are supposed to live?  Is your work consistent with your personality?  Is your work fun?  Does it satisfy you, meet your deepest longings? Does it perhaps leave you feeling tired and frustrated? What could that be trying to tell you? 

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And the second piece of authentic vocation (whether occupational and personal) for me is that it contains an element of aspiration, that there is something about it that draws you to reach for the stars, to strive, so that whatever it is you are doing, you are not settling, but are always reaching to be better.  Absolute perfection may not exist of course, but that should in no wise discourage us from being on the pilgrimage toward it, because the striving, the careful attention, the learning, the longing, is how great wine is made, and how great people are made.

Winemakers seem to be people that aim high, experiment, adjust, dream. Does your work have you reaching upward?  Conversely, have you fallen into settled habits and don’t desire anything better?  People with authentic vocations seem to be always thirsting, expanding their reach, seeking something greater. Are you wanting to be better; what, in your work or in your life, are you striving for?

What about you? Is your vocation authentic?

Guest post written by Reverend Paul Bailey

 

Dispatch from the Muscadet AOC

  By admin | April 20, 2019 - 11:02 am | ,
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The Erdre River at Nantes

The Erdre River at Nantes

There are some people that consider Muscadet to be a rather uninteresting wine. After all (they may argue), it’s old-fashioned, it is a mono-cépage (wine produced from a single grape variety), and the grape itself—Melon de Bourgogne—is rather neutral in aromas and flavors. 

Others would argue that Muscadet—the leading wine of the Loire Valley’s Pays Nantais and produced in four separate appellations including Muscadet AOC, Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine AOC, Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu AOC, and Muscadet Coteaux de la Loire AOC—is complex, delicious, and fascinating. After all, the Pays Nantais is itself somewhat complicated, with a great diversity in its topography, soils, and micro-climates. Combine that with the fact that the wine is often put through sur lie aging, and you have a region that can produce a wine that may show up in a variety of styles from light, citrus, and mineral-scented to rich, yeasty, and full of tropical fruit flavors.

While we’re on the subject of Muscadet, here are a few more fascinating facts about the grape, the wine, and the region:

The Year was 1937: The Muscadet AOC was originally approved on September 23, 1937—making it one of the oldest AOCs for wine in France. The very first wine-specific AOCs were approved on May 15, 1936.

Photo of Lake Grand-Lieu via www.france-voyage.com

Photo of Lake Grand-Lieu via www.france-voyage.com

La Lac de Grand-Lieu: Lake Grand Lieu (La Lac de Grand-Lieu) is located about 8 miles (14 km) south of the city of Nantes. The lake stretches across 6,000 hectares in winter, when it is considered the largest natural lake in France. Lake Grand Lieu was ceded to the country of France in the early 1980s under the condition that it be declared a national nature reserve. The lake contains four distinct habitats—including open water, a water lily bed, a reed bed and several meadows that flood for six to eight months a year. More than 500 species of plants make their home on the lake, and over 270 species of birds fly through the region each year along their migratory route towards the Atlantic Coast. The area is also home to ducks, geese, otters, and frogs. As the lake is 100% a nature preserve, access is limited and most forms of boating and fishing are not allowed. However, there are 7 members of the traditional fishing community that have been assigned a special authorization to fish during certain times of the year.

Le Muscadet Nouveau est arrivé: Muscadet AOC is allowed to be bottled using the term “Nouveau” or “Primeur.” Muscadet Nouveau AOC may be released on the third Thursday of November (which is, it seems, a very good day to host a wine party).

Map of the Muscader AOC via the INAO

Map of the Muscadet AOC via the INAO

The Muscadet AOC: The Muscadet AOC is large area, starting just east of the place where the Loire River meets the Atlantic Coast and extending inland for almost 55 miles (90 km) to the western edge of the Anjou District. The majority of the area is located within the Loire-Atlantique Département, but small portions extend into the Maine-et-Loire and Vendée Département as well. Many of the vineyards are located to the south and east of the city of Nantes; others are concentrated along the Loire River (and its famous tributaries, including the Sèvre, the Erdre, and the Maine) as well as the area surrounding Grand Lieu Lake.

Clisson, Gorges, and Le Pallet: The Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine AOC, tucked between the Sèvre and the Maine Rivers close to where they flow northwest in the Loire River, contains three (smallish) sub-regions: Clisson, Gorges, and Le Pallet. These three sub-regions are delineated based on soil types—Clisson is granite-based, Gorges rests on clay and gabbro, and Le Pallet is known for gneiss and quartz. Wines labeled with these sub-regions—often referred to as crus—must be produced from grapes grown on these soils. The three sub-regions also have varying requirements for sur lie aging and total aging before release, and wine are often aged on the lees for two years or more. Click here for a map of the sub-regions of the Muscadet Sevre et Maine AOC, via the INAO.

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Le Grand Hiver:  On January 5, 1709, much of Northern Europe woke up to a deep freeze. The freezing temperatures—which spread from England (where they called it “The Great Frost”) across France (where they called it Le Grand Hiver) and Northern Italy, through Scandinavia and parts of Russia—lasted almost three months. This was considered to be the coldest winter in Europe in over 500 years. During this time, Elizabeth Charlotte, the Duchess of Orléans wrote a letter from her Loire Valley home exclaiming, “Never in my life have I seen a winter such as this one; the wine freezes in bottles.” Not long after The Great Frost, red grapes were outlawed in Nantes and the area became (for a time) a white wine-only region. It was during this time that the cold-hardy Melon de Bourgogne grape came to dominate the vineyards of the Pays Nantais.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles, your blog administrator…

Welcome to the World, VCIG Cebreros!

  By admin | April 11, 2019 - 3:25 pm |
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Logo of the DOP Cebreros via http://dopcebreros.com/

Logo of the DOP Cebreros via http://dopcebreros.com/

After several years of application status, the wine region of Cebreros has (as of April 11, 2019) been recognized as a Vino de Calidad Indicación Geográfica (VCiG) by the European Union.

In the Spanish system of wine classification, VCIG wines are included in the protected designation of origin (DOP/PDO) tier. The VCIG classification is seen as a “stepping stone” to the higher designation of origin (DO) status. VCIG areas are considered eligible for promotion to DO after five years.

The new appellation is located in the southern section of the province of Ávila, which is itself located in southern section of the autonomous community of Castilla y León. The region stretches across 35 municipalities and includes a portion of the Sierra de Gredos mountain range as well as the valleys of the Alberche and the Tiétar Rivers (both tributaries of the Tagus/Tejo).

The area has a long history of wine production, dating as far back as 1273 when the oak forests of the area began to be cleared to make room for agriculture, including vineyards and wine production. These days, the area has over 375 hectares (927 acres) planted to vine. 70% of the vineyards are Garnacha Tinta (red Grenache), sometimes known by the local name “Gironet.” The remainder is mostly Albilla Real (a white variety).

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The VCIG is approved for the production of still (non-sparkling) wines in red, white, and rosé. Some of the details of these wines are as follows:

  • Red Wines: Must be produced from a minimum of 95% Garnacha Tinta, should be “clear in appearance, with cherry-red tones and touches of violet;” minimum 13% abv
  • White wines: Must be produced using 100% Albillo Real grapes, should be “clear and brilliant, with a fruity fragrance;” minimum 12% abv
  • Rosé wines: Must be produced from a minimum of 95% Garnacha Tinta, should be “clear and brilliant, and their color ranges from pale pink to strawberry-pink or raspberry;” minimum 12% abv
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The VCIG Cebreros is not located within any of Spain’s other protected designations of origin (PDOs) for wine. It is, however, located within the larger Vino de la Tierra-Castilla y León appellation (a protected geographical indication, or PGI) that covers the entirety of the autonomous community of Castilla y León.

Welcome to the world, VCIG Cebreros!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles, your blog administrator

Meet the Board: Meg Hansen, CSW, CSS

  By admin | April 6, 2019 - 12:18 am | ,
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Meg Hansen enjoying a tasting at Frank Family Vineyard in Napa

Meg Hansen enjoying a tasting at Frank Family Vineyard in Napa

Meg (Margaret) Hansen, CSW, CSS is one of the newest members of the Society of Wine Educators (SWE) Board of Directors. Several years ago, Meg experienced an amusing “accidental” introduction to SWE as she was serving on the wine committee of the Minnehaha Country Club. It seems that the club’s chef was scheduled to take the Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) exam, but by the time the exam rolled around he was no longer employed there. As such, Meg had a “last minute” opportunity to step up and take the exam and by doing so, became determined to learn more about wine and to achieve the CSW. Within a short time, she had earned the CSW as well as the Hospitality Beverage Specialist Certificate (HBSC) and the Certified Specialist of Spirits (CSS) as well. Meg is currently a Certified Wine Educator (CWE) aspirant and has attended the last three conferences as well as dozens of our certification summits and webinars!

In her professional life, Meg is a physician assistant who at one time practiced in the allergy and asthma field and served as a professor in the South Dakota University physician assistant program. For the past 13 years she has been the executive director of the South Dakota Board of Medical and Osteopathic Examiners—the licensing board for physicians and allied health professions who hold a South Dakota license.

As the chair of the Minnehaha Country Club’s wine committee, Meg leads a group that organizes monthly wine dinners and tastings designed to educate the club’s staff, members, and public guests about the wide world of wine and spirits. She wears her CSW and CSS pins at every opportunity and if they do not get noticed, much to the chagrin of her family, she is more than happy to point them out.

Welcome to the Board, Meg Hansen!

Dispatch from Vinos de Madrid DO (and the announcement of a new sub-region)!

  By admin | April 3, 2019 - 7:45 am | ,
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Madrid is a beautiful city, known for world-class dining amazing scenery, and beautiful architecture. If you visit, you’ll want to take in the Prado Museum as well as the Museo Reina Sofia, Retiro Park, the Gran Via, and the Palacio Real (just to get you started).

Madrid is also the name given to one of the seventeen autónomias (autonomous communities) of Spain. The autónomia of Madrid is located somewhat in the middle of the country, bordering Castilla–La Mancha and Castilla y León. The city of Madrid is the capital city of the area and—with a population of over 3 million people—by far the largest.

Logo via: http://www.vinosdemadrid.es/es/

Logo via: http://www.vinosdemadrid.es/es/

The autónomia of Madrid is also a wine-producing area, and has its own geographical indication: Vinos de Madrid Denominación de Origen (DO). The Vinos de Madrid produces a wide range of wines, including tinto (red), blanco (white), and rosado (rosé). The main authorized grape varieties for these wines are as follows:

  • Red and rosé: Tinto Fino (Tempranillo), Garnacha Tinta (Grenache Noir), Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, or Syrah
  • White: Malvar, Albillo (Albillo Real), Airén, Viura (Macabeo), Torrontés, Parellada, Moscatel de Grano Menudo (Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains)

Traditional Method sparkling wines—known as Vino Espumoso—are produced as well. Vino Espumoso de Madrid is required to be aged on the lees for a minimum of 9 months; however, the only producer in the region—Bodegas Jesús Díaz e Hijos—ages their bubbly sur lie for at least three years. The grapes allowed in the sparkling wines of Vinos de Madrid DO include the following Albillo (Albillo Real), Torrontés, Viura (Macabeo), Parellada, Malvar, Garnacha Tinta (Grenache Noir) and Tinto Fino (Tempranillo).

Map via www.vinosdemadrid.es

Map via www.vinosdemadrid.es

The DO is also approved for the production of a unique wine known as Vino Sobremadre. Vino Sobremadre is produced in both red and white styles, and involves a post-fermentation maceration of 90 to 180 days on the grape skins and lees (the madre).

The Vinos de Madrid DO was first established in 1990. Soon thereafter, three sub-regions— Arganda, Navalcarnero, and San Martín de Valdeiglesias—were approved. On March 20, 2019, the Consejo Regulador announced a new sub-region to be known as El Molar.

The new sub-region of ​​El Molar is the only one located in the north of the Vinos de Madrid region, and currently has approximately 600 hectares (1,500 acres) planted to vine (mainly Granacha Tinta and Malvar). The El Molar region stretches between the River Guadalix and the River Jarama, stretching into the Sierra Norte de Madrid Mountains (part of the Sierra de Guadarrama Range) and the Jarama Valley. Wineries in this area are located just to the north of the city of Madrid—and close enough for a day trip. If you leave by 5 pm, you can be back in the city for dinner at the Mercado de San Miguel.

 References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles, your blog administrator

Lucky Lucido

  By admin | March 16, 2019 - 11:07 am | ,
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According to the website of the Consorzio di tutela vini Sicilia DOC, wines produced from the Cataratto Bianco Comune and Cataratto Bianco Lucido varieties may now be labeled using the term “Lucido.”

Lucido is a historical name for the Catarrato grape, and the Consorzio has taken this step due to the belief that the grape variety “Cataratto” is not widely known, and—particularly in the international markets—considered hard to pronounce. It is believed that these factors are making the wine less appealing to some consumers.

Catarrato is an ancient grape variety and native to the island of Sicily. According to Jancis Robinson, et al, in the book Wine Grapes, it was described as a Sicilian wine grape in 1696 by the Italian naturalist Francesco Cupani in the work “Hortus Catholicus.” Catarrato/Lucido is believed to be an offspring of the Garganega grape variety (which is itself best-known famous as the main grape variety of the Soave DOC). Garganega is also mentioned as the likely parent of Albana, Malvasia Bianca, and Trebbiano Toscano (among others)—giving the grape many possible siblings. Catarrato itself—along with Muscat of Alexandria—is believed to be the parent of Grillo, another important Sicilian variety.

Photo via: siciliadoc.wine/en/

Photo via: siciliadoc.wine/en/

Two “types” of Catarrato are often cited in wine documents (and wine labels): Cataratto Bianco Comune and Cataratto Bianco Lucido. Previously, it was assumed that these terms represented two distinct grape varieties, but recent evidence has shown that they are merely two clones of the same variety. According to Wine Grapes, it is proper to use the name “Catarrato Bianco” to refer to either clone. In this new ruling by the Consorzio of the Silcilia DOC, the name Lucido may apply to either clone.

Catarrato is the most widely grown grape on the island of Sicily, and despite its relative lack of acclaim, is the second-most-widely grown white grape in all of Italy. One reason for its relative obscurity is no doubt that a good deal of Catarrato grapes are used in wine destined for distillation, as grape concentrate, or in the production of sweet versions of Marsala. However, when grown in optimal conditions and used to produce a varietal or blended wine, it can be quite interesting. Well-done Catarrato-based wines tend to show aromas and flavors of citrus (lemon, tangerine, grapefruit), red apples, fresh herbs, almonds,  and a distinct minerality. Such wines tend to be somewhat full-bodied and rich in floral aromas, often leading to a comparison with varietal wines produced from Viognier.

Photo via: www.donnafugata.it

Photo via: www.donnafugata.it

One of the most widely-distributed Catarrato/Lucido-based wines I have found is Donnafugata Anthìlia Sicilia DOC. According to the winery website, “The 2018 vintage is characterized by a fresh and fragrant bouquet with fruity and floral notes. A very versatile wine, ideal with fish and vegetarian first and second courses.”

While Catarrato/Lucido is often used to produce a single-variety wine, it is also an excellent blending partner with other international and native Sicilian grapes. Typical blending partners for Catarrato/Lucido include Chardonnay, Grillo, Inzolia, Viogner, and Fiano.

In addition to the Sicilia DOC, the Catarrato grape  is approved for use in the wines of many of the DOCs of Sicily, including the Alcama DOC, Etna DOC, Salaparuta DOC, and the Marsala DOC (among others). At this point, it is unclear whether or not the “Lucido” synonym will be used (or allowed to be used) outside of the Sicilia DOC.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles, your blog administrator…

The New DACs: Südsteiermark, Vulkanland Steiermark, and Weststeiermark

  By admin | March 9, 2019 - 12:02 pm | ,
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Riegersburg Castle Steiermark

Riegersburg Castle Steiermark

Late last year, the wine world began to hear rumblings of three new Districtus Austriae Controllatus- (DAC-) designated wine-growing regions to be confirmed in the Austrian state of Styria (Steiermark). As of March 3, 2019, we can confirm that these three new DACs— Südsteiermark DAC, Vulkanland Steiermark DAC, and Weststeirmark DAC—have published their Verordnungen (regulations) and are officially in force..

The wines of all three new DAC regions may be produced under the following classifications:

  • Gebietswein: Regional wine
  • Ortswein:  “Village wine” from certain designated villages
  • Riedenwein: Single-vineyard wines from classified estates

Read on for a summary of the new regulations concerning these wine regions.

Vineyards surrounding Riegersburg Castle

Vineyards surrounding Riegersburg Castle

Südsteiermark DAC: Sauvignon Blanc, the leading grape of the Südsteiermark, is planted in nearly 20% of the region’s vineyards. However, this is a large growing area—currently there are 6,234 acres/2,563 hectares planted to vine; and Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay are well-represented as well. The area makes for a stunning landscape, with rolling hills punctuated by staggering slopes—some with an incline as steep as 45°. The soils in the flatter regions are primarily marine sediment, while the hills and slopes contain marl and conglomerate soils. The climate during the growing season tends to warm and humid days combined with cool nights, allowing for a long vegetative cycle and complex, concentrated grapes. 

Other details of the Südsteiermark DAC include the following:

  • Grapes allowed: Welschriesling, Pinot Blanc, Morillon (Chardonnay), Pinot Gris, Riesling, Muscat, Sauvignon Blanc, and Traminer (Savignin); wine may be single-variety or blends. Grapes must be hand-harvested.
  • Required aging: Wines made from Welschriesling grapes may be sold at any time; for all other varieties, the wine may not be sold before March 1 of the year following harvest. Wines designated by a village or single vineyard (Riedenwein) designation may have longer required minimum aging times.
  • Wine Styles: Wines are required to be vinified dry and have a stated maximum of 0.4% RS. Wines produced from Riesling or Traminer (Savignin) must display the word “Trocken” (dry) on the label.
  • Ortswein: Designated “villages” approved for the production of Ortswein include Kitzeck-Sausal, Eichberg, Leutschach, Gamlitz, and Ehrenhausen.
Uhrtum Clock Tower

Uhrtum Clock Tower

Vulkanland Steiermark DAC: As its name implies, Vulkanland Steiermark is rich in volcanic soils often said to help imbue the wines of the region with a distinct character that has been described as “mineral-spice.” The area has 3,765 acres/1,524 ha planted to vines, many of them planted on the slopes of the area’s long-dormant volcanoes, some reaching elevations as high as 1,968 feet/600 meters. The area has a particular affinity for rich, medium-to-full-bodied Sauvignon Blanc, assisted by the warm, dry days and cool, crisp nights typical of the growing season. Klöcher Traminer, known for a rich floral aroma redolent of roses, is sometimes made as a semi-sweet (halbtrocken) wine, and is one of the few wines of the region that may be produced in fully sweet style (labeled as a Prädikatswein).

Other details of the Vulkanland Steiermark DAC include the following:

  • Grapes allowed: Welschriesling, Pinot Blanc, Morillon (Chardonnay), Pinot Gris, Riesling, Muscat, Sauvignon Blanc, Traminer (Savignin); wine may be single-variety or blends. Grapes must be hand-harvested.
  • Required aging: Wines made from Welschriesling grapes may be sold at any time; for all other varieties, the wine may not be sold before March 1 of the year following harvest. Wines designated by a village or a single vineyard (Riedenwein) designation may have longer required minimum aging times.
  • Wine Styles: With a few exceptions (as detailed below), wines are required to be vinified dry and have a stated maximum of 0.4% RS. Wines produced from Riesling or Traminer (Savignin Blanc) must display the word “Trocken” (dry) on the label.
  • Ortswein: Designated “villages” approved for the production of Ortswein include Klöch, Straden, St. Peter, Tieschen, St. Anna, Kapfenstein, Riegersburg and Oststeiermark.
  • Unique Sweets: Klöcher Traminer, which may be produced in a semi-dry style, or—if labeled as a Prädikatswein—as a sweet wine, may not be sold until April 1 of the year following the harvest.
The Municipality of Puch bei Weiz

The Municipality of Puch bei Weiz

Weststeirmark (West Styria) DAC: There are currently about 1,350 acres/546 ha planted to vine and 127 wineries located in Weststeiermark. The terroir of Weststeiermark is described as rolling hills punctuated by steep inclines, many of which house vines at elevations of up to 1,970 feet/600 m. The climate during the growing period is warm and quite humid. The soil of Westeiermark is based on a combination of gneiss and mica-rich schist.

As of the publication of the new Westeiermark DAC, the “Schilcherland DAC” for Schilcher Rosé (approved in October of 2017) is no longer in force—however, the wine continues to be produced as a specialty of the area, labeled as “Schilcher Klassik Westeiermark DAC.” A range of styles of Schilcher Rosé are permitted, include still, frizzante, and fully sparkling.

Other details of the Weststeiermark DAC include the following:

  • Grapes allowed: Blauer Wildbacher (Schilcher), Welschriesling, Pinot Blanc, Morillon (Chardonnay), Pinot Gris, Riesling, Muscat, Sauvignon Blanc, and Traminer (Savignin); wine may be single-variety or blends. Grapes must be hand-harvested.
  • Required aging: Wines produced from Welschriesling and Blauer Wildbacher (Schilcher) grapes may be sold at any time; for all other varieties, the wine may not be sold before March 1 of the year following harvest. Wines designated by a village or single vineyard (Riedenwein) designation may have longer required minimum aging times.
  • Wine Styles: Wines are required to be vinified dry and have a stated maximum of 0.4% RS. Wines produced from Riesling or Traminer (Savignin Blanc) must display the word “Trocken” (dry) on the label.
  • Ortswein: Designated “villages” approved for the production of Ortswein include Ligist, Stainz, Deutschlandsberg, and Eibiswald.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles, your blog administrator…

Guest Post: The (R)evolution of the Basque Country’s Txakolina

  By admin | February 26, 2019 - 9:44 am | , ,
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Celebrating Txakolina with dance in the town of Bakio

Celebrating Txakolina with dance in the town of Bakio

Today we have a guest post from Kerri Lesh, CSW and and Ph.d candidate. Kerri tells us about her search for Txakolina and other adventures in wine and the Basque Country of Spain. Kerri will be presenting a webinar on Txakolina and Basque wine on Saturday, March 9th at 10:00 am central time. 

Now advertised as a “Culinary Nation,” the Basque Country of Spain (Hegoalde) has changed quite a bit over the last few decades. Known in the native language Euskara as Euskadi, this part of Basque Country has evolved from a nation associated with terrorism, to one of gastronomic fame. Touting more Michelin-star restaurants per capita than anywhere in the world, cities like San Sebastián/Donostia have become increasingly attractive to foreigners searching for sandy beaches as well as great food and wine. This city is located in the province of Gipuzkoa, which extends to what we know as the French border and the rest of the Basque Country (Iparralde). To the west of this city is Bilbao—located in the province of Biscay/Bizkaia—and joining the southern borders of these two provinces is Álava/Araba, with Vitoria-Gasteiz as its capital. These three provinces not only make up the Basque Autonomous Community, but each contains a Denominación de Origen (DO) for Txakolina: Getariako Txakolina, Bizkaiko Txakolina, and Arabako Txakolina.

My first walk among the vineyards around Getaria

My first walk among the vineyards around Getaria

Just as the Basque Country is transforming, so is Txakolina. This wine—known as either Txakoli or Txakolina—has changed considerably over the last few hundred years. Its debated etymological roots, stemming from “etxeko ain,” meaning “enough for the home,” link this wine to the Basque language and local production for the home. As I interviewed people while living in the Basque Country, I found this iconic wine had not always had such a positive reputation. Older generations had a much different perspective on it than the younger generations of Basques and the tourists who have only had access to Txakoli for the last decade or so.

Production methods have changed the taste of Txakoli both abroad and closer to home. Today, there are three different styles of the wine—white, rosé, and red. However, well before designations of origin protected Txakolina, an advertisement for “Chacoli de Ezcaba” (the Castilian spelling) indicates that a wine with the same name was once produced in the province of Navarra with Garnacha. This would have been much different from the Txakolina produced today in the three DOs.

A vineyard of Hondarribi Zuri near where I lived outside of Elorrio withi Udalaitz Mountain in the background

A vineyard of Hondarribi Zuri near where I lived outside of Elorrio withi Udalaitz Mountain in the background

Cultural tastes play a role in the Txakolina available to consumers. While a rosé version of the wine made by producers such as Ameztoi and Txomin Etxaniz can commonly be found in the United States, drinking the rosé version is not part of local Basque culture. Most producers depend largely on the white grape Hondaribbi Zuri to make white wine, exporting rosé, which typically incorporates the red grape Hondaribbi Beltza, to countries such as the United States. Over time, producers such as Doniene Gorrondona have even created a version of Txakolina using the Traditional Method as well as red.

In addition to helping with a 2017 harvest in the Basque Country, I also had the opportunity to work a harvest in Casablanca, Chile. One weekend after the harvest was complete, a few colleagues from the winery and I got in a car in search of the Chilean Chacoli. I had read that Chacoli could be found near the Chilean city of Doñihue.

Discovering Chacoli in Chile

Discovering Chacoli in Chile

It took some digging around to find this wine, which included asking locals traveling on horseback and knocking on doors. After hours of driving around, we found one bodega and a couple of people who claimed to make it, mostly for local consumption. It tasted nothing like the Txakolina made in the Basque Country, which made sense considering the use of different grape varietals and production methods. Most of the producers also referred to their chacoli as chicha, a beverage typically from Latin America that is fermented from fruits or grains. While living in the Basque Country in 2017, I received news that a group of Chilean producers were revitalizing the production of Chacoli as a local artisanal wine that would typically be sold at local festivals and celebrations. Unlike its Basque ancestor, this version does not have a geographical or designation of origin.

It will be interesting to see how this wine will continue to change across the Basque DOs. and in Chilean artisanal production. Today in the Basque Country, the scale of Txakolina has evolved from being just “enough for the home,” to now being sold across the globe. It is also no longer solely advertised as a young white wine to be drunk soon after it is bottled, and can be enjoyed in its many forms over time whether it is white, rosé, or red; slightly effervescent, still, or sparkling; young or aged. As tourism continues to increase in the Basque Country, in turn opening up these winegrowing regions to globalized tastes, what will Txakolina look like in another 20 years?

Kerri Lesh, CSW and Ph.d candidate, will present a webinar on Txakolina and the Basque Country on Saturday, March 6th at 10:00 am central time. Click here f or more information on the March 9th webinar.

For more posts and interviews from Kerri Lesh, please visit http://www.kerrilesh.com/

Photo credits: Kerri Lesh, Cameron Watson

 

The 2019 Version of the Certified Specialist of Spirits (CSS) Books are Here!

  By admin | February 23, 2019 - 12:11 pm | ,
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What do all of these items have in common: The Jamaica Rum GI…Italicus Rosolio di Bergamotto…Raspberry Himbeergeist…and Haitian Clairin? Answer: You’ll find all of these updates (and more) in the just-released, 2019 version of the Certified Specialist of Spirits (CSS) Study Guide and Workbook.

Click here to find the 2019 CSS Study Guide on Amazon. The cost is $49.

Click here to find the 2019 CSS Workbook on Amazon. The cost is $39.

CSS Exam Availability: CSS Exams based on the 2019 edition of the Study Guide are currently available at Pearson VUE Testing Centers, and will remain available until December 30, 2021. Exams based on the 2018 book are also still available (for those that have a 2018 exam attendance credit) and will continue to be available until December 30, 2020. Click here for more information on the timing and availability of CSS exams.

Online Prep Course: Our next instructor-led CSS Online Prep Course is scheduled to begin in May 2019. The aim of the prep course is to get attendees “as prepared as humanly possible” for a successful sitting of the CSS Exam. Online prep courses are available, free-of-charge, to Professional members of SWE who have a valid CSS Exam attendance credit.

The CSS Exam may be purchased via the SWE website: Click here to purchase the CSS Exam.

Click here for an addendum listing the substantive changes between the 2019 and 2018 versions of the CSS Study Guide: Addendum for the 2019 CSS Study Guide

Flashcards and Practice Quizzes: Our popular online flashcards and practice quizzes have also been updated for 2019 (while 2018 and 2016 versions remain available as well). The cost for these products is $19 each. Click here for the digital flashcards and practice quizzes. Please note that this is a separate website from the SWE homepage and will require a separate login.

If you have any questions regarding the CSS Study Guides or Exams, please contact our Director of Education at jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org