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Welcome to the World, SLO Coast AVA!

  By admin | March 9, 2022 - 1:11 pm | ,
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Base map via the TTB/AVA Explorer

Base map via the TTB/AVA Explorer

On March 8 (2022) the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States announced the approval of the San Luis Obispo Coast (SLO Coast) American Viticultural Area (AVA). The newly minted AVA is located within San Luis Obispo County (California) and is a sub-appellation of the larger California Central Coast AVA. Two existing AVAs—the Edna Valley and the Arroyo Grande Valley AVA lie completely within the San Luis Obispo Coast AVA.

Two names—San Luis Obispo Coast and SLO Coast—have been approved for the region, and either may be used.

The SLO Coast AVA covers a total of 480,585-acres, stretching over 60 miles/115 km of Pacific Coastline from Ragged Point to just beyond Grover Beach. The area includes the coastal communities of San Simeon, Cambria, and Morro Bay.

The AVA currently contains over 78 commercial vineyards planted to just over 5,000 acres/2,025 hectares of vines. Chardonnay (43%) and Pinot Noir (35%) are the leading grape varieties of the area, followed by smaller plantings of Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc, and Cabernet Sauvignon (among others). There are over 50 wineries located in the SLO Coast AVA.

Base map via the TTB/AVA Explorer

Base map via the TTB/AVA Explorer

According to the original petition to establish the AVA—originally submitted to the TTB in July of 2017 by the members of the SLO Wine Collective—the distinguishing features of the SLO Coast AVA are its topography, climate, and soils, as described below.

Topography: The SLO Coast AVA consists of low-lying coastal terraces, foothills, and small valleys along the Pacific Coast. Most of the area—as much as 97% of the region—is at or below 1,800 feet/548 meters in elevation. The eastern edge of the area is marked by Santa Lucia Mountain Range, marking the cooler, coastal-influenced land within the AVA with the warmer area on the inland side of the mountains.

Climate: As would be expected of an area directly along the Pacific Coast, the SLO Coast AVA has an overall cool, maritime climate. The average growing degree day (GDD) temperature accumulation is 2,493—establishing the area as Region I according to the Winkler Scale. Average temperatures for the growing season are between 47.5° and 52° Fahrenheit (8.6° to 11°C). More significantly, the average maximum temperature during the growing season hovers between 70° and 78°F (21° to 25.5°C). Fog cover is often present (at night and in the morning) during the growing season.

Soils: Four basic soil types are present in the region. The soils covering most of the area in the northern stretches of the AVA consist of weathered sedimentary soils, including a degree of sandstone and shale. Further to the south, the soils are derived mainly from marine deposits and include sand and loam. A small section located on the inland side of the appellation contains volcanic soils. A narrow stretch of the coastline itself is comprised mainly of wind deposits and sand dunes and is considered unsuitable for viticulture.

When the SLO Coast AVA comes into force on April 8 (2022), the total number of AVAs in the United States will be 261. Of these, 143 will be in California.

Welcome to the world, San Luis Obispo Coast/SLO Coast AVA!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

 

 

The Judgment of Orlando—SWE Conference Recap 2021

  By admin | August 26, 2021 - 11:33 am |
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Today we offer a recap of a session—The Judgment of Orlando—from the 45th Conference of the Society of Wine Educators, written by session presenter Alan Tardi

I recently had the pleasure of conducting a session at the Society of Wine Educators 45th Annual Conference, live and in person after a 2-year hiatus due to the pandemic. While I am always pleased to be invited to present at conference, this time I felt a bit jealous of the participants sitting in the ballroom.

Each person had their own well-spaced table, and on the table were 12 exceptional sparkling wines. Of course, I had 12 wines in front of me too, but I was standing up talking rather than sitting down tasting and, unlike the audience, I already knew what the wines where!

All of them—with one exception—were made using the Méthode Champenoise, known as the Traditional Method anywhere outside of Champagne. And, while I gave a brief discourse on the origin and evolution of sparkling wine, the audience embarked on a sort of treasure hunt, tasting through the wines in front of them, without having been given any indication of what they were.

Then we addressed each of the wines one by one: Is this wine Champagne or is it not Champagne? If it is not Champagne, is it from the Old World or New? More importantly, why? And what are these impressions and deductions based on?

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There were 4 Champagnes, 4 Old World sparklers and 4 New World, but none of the participants knew this and the tasting order was intentionally mixed up. All the wines were carefully selected and of extremely high caliber, and each of them was unique yet very representative of its specific place of origin.

From Champagne, there were two classic Maison and two grower-producers. Pierre Gerbais‘ “L’Originale” from the southern department of the Aube, was made from 100% Pinot Blanc (aka Vrai Blanc) from a vineyard planted in 1904, while Aurelien Laherte‘s “Les 7” was comprised of all seven permitted grape varieties of Champagne made from a base wine that came from a perpetual reserve started in 2003.

The 167th edition of Krug’s “Grande Cuvée” (base year 2011) was a masterful assemblage of the three principal grape varieties of Champagne consisting of 191 different wines, including a healthy amount of reserve wines going back to 1995. The iconic “Clos des Goisses” 2005 of Philipponnat (which traces its winegrowing origins back to 1522), was comprised of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from within the steep enclosed vineyard, a wine that many believe constitutes the first site-specific bottling of Champagne.

Other Old-World wines included the “Classic Cuvée” (base year 2011) from Nyetimber, located in Southern England in an area that is, geologically speaking, an extension of the chalky Paris Basin which plays a huge role in the northern Champagne growing area of the Marne. From Trentino in northern Italy, we had a 100% Chardonnay from a single vineyard about 600 meters above sea level that spent 8 years on the lees. This special bottling, made only in exceptional vintages, is named after the founder of the winery (1902) who went to Champagne, fell in love (with the wine), and was compelled to make a champagne-style wine in his homeland, laying the foundation for what is now known as Trento DOC.

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Something similar happened a century earlier when a member of the Raventós family—which traces its winegrowing activity in the Penedès area of Catalonia to 1497—returned home from Champagne in 1872 determined to make a sparkling wine using the Champagne method but with the native grape varieties of his region. It was a big success; many others in the area started to make it and Cava was born. Ironically, Raventós decided to withdraw from the Cava DO in 2012 because they felt that the integrity of the appellation they essentially created had been severely compromised. The wine we tasted was made of 100% Xarel.lo grapes personally selected by Josep Maria Raventós i Negra from the 2005 vintage which spent about 6 years on the lees.

There was also another wine from Italy, a sort of red herring in the form of a Prosecco DOCG made from very old vines in Valdobbiadene by Paolo Bisol of Ruggeri winery. What made it very unusual was that this wine spent four years in an autoclave on the lees (plus one year in bottle) which gave it some subtle autolytic hints resonant of something one might find in a vintage champagne. [This was an experiment; only 4500 bottles were made, they’re practically gone now and bottles for this event had to be sent from Italy.]

New World selections consisted of four prestige-level wines: “Cuvée Clive”, a Cap Classique from Graham Beck Estate, South Africa; Schramsberg “Reserve”, from one of California’s oldest non-mission wineries (founded 1862) that was re-born as sparkling specialist by the Davies family in 1965; “Le Reve” from Domaine Carneros, a winery started by Claude Taittinger in 1987; and “L’Hermitage” from Roederer Estate (founded 1982), offshoot of another highly respected and well-established maison of Champagne.

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With 12 exceptional wines to taste, deduce, critique and explore, we didn’t have time to go into great detail or compare peoples’ contrasting impressions of the wines. And, unlike the 1974 “Judgment of Paris” tasting organized by Steven Spurrier (RIP) in which cabernet sauvignon-based wines from California won out over Bordeaux in a blind tasting, there was no clear consensus in Orlando and participants were quite divided (or ambiguous) about whether a wine was Champagne or not, or whether it was Old World or New.

But that was perfectly fine. The structure of this presentation was not intended so much as a contest to determine the ‘best’ but rather as an opportunity sharpen our faculties of taste, make some deductions about what we tasted, and explore the impact of provenance and production method unhindered by prejudice — not to mention have fun and taste some great wines together, in person!

I do hope participants found it enjoyable and insightful.

P.S. If you weren’t able to be there, you might like to pick a few bottles and create your own ‘judgment’ tasting! Click here for a Wine List-Judgment of Orlando as presented by Alan Tardi

–Alan Tardi

You might also like to pick up a copy of my book “Champagne, Uncorked.” I’m offering SWE members a 25% discount off cover price (plus cost of shipping) and would be happy to sign it if you wish. Write to me at alantardi@aol.com and I will send you an order form. Click here for more information about the SWE Discount for Champagne Uncorked by Alan Tardi

Welcome to the World, Palos Verdes Peninsula AVA!

  By admin | June 19, 2021 - 8:43 pm | ,
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Map via the TTB AVA Explorer Map

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer Map

On June 17, 2021, the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States approved the Palos Verdes Peninsula AVA. When this new AVA comes into force—on July 19, 2021—the total number of AVAs in the United States will be 255, of which 142 will be in California.

The Palos Verdes Peninsula area—located in the southwestern corner of Los Angeles County—hugs the Pacific Ocean coastline about 25 miles west of downtown Los Angeles. The region includes the cities of Palos Verdes Estates, Rolling Hills Estates, Rancho Palos Verdes, and Rolling Hills, California. The area is highly regarded for its sweeping views of the ocean and the Los Angeles city skyline, gated communities, and high-dollar homes. However, the area has a long history of agriculture—including some viticulture—and wine continues to be produced in the area.

According to the original petition—spearheaded by James York of Catalina View Wines and submitted on behalf of a group of Palos Verdes Peninsula winegrowers—the area’s distinguishing characteristics include its topography, soils, and climate. These are discussed below:

Topography: The area within the Palos Verdes Peninsula AVA consists of low rolling hills (technically part of the Coast Range) situated between the Los Angeles Basin and the Pacific Ocean. Elevations range from sea level (on the region’s western and southern edges) to 1,460 feet/445 m above sea level at San Pedro Hill. Many of the region’s vineyards are planted on moderate south- or southeast-facing slopes. 

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer Map

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer Map

Soils: The soils of the region include Altamont Clay Adobe, Altamont Clay Loam, and Diablo Clay Adobe. These soils are composed primarily of fine-grained sandstone, weathered shale, silt, and calcareous clay.  These soils retain allow for moisture retention in dry weather while allowing for drainage during rainy times.

Climate: Like many areas of Southern California, the Palos Verdes Peninsula AVA has an overall Mediterranean Climate coupled with the coastal influence of the nearby Pacific Ocean. The area typically experiences warm, dry summers (temperatures rarely exceed 84°F/29°C) and mild winters with limited rainfall.

The Palos Verdes Peninsula AVA includes a total of 15,900 acres; of these, just over 7 acres are currently planted to vines. Two producing wineries—Catalina View Wines and La Caze Family Vineyard—are located within the region. The leading grape varieties include Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot

Welcome to the world, Palos Verdes Peninsula AVA!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Welcome to the World: The Burn of Columbia Valley AVA!

  By admin | June 18, 2021 - 9:15 am | ,
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Map via the TTB AVA Explorer Map

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer Map

On June 17, 2021, the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States approved two new American Viticultural Areas (AVAs): the White Bluffs AVA and the Burn of Columbia Valley AVA. When these new AVAs come into force—on July 19, 2021—the total number of AVAs in Washington State will be 18.

This article will focus on the Burn of Columbia Valley AVA. Click here for an article focusing on the While Bluffs AVA.

The Burn of Columbia Valley AVA (a sub-region of the Columbia Valley AVA) is located in the southwest corner of the Columbia Valley AVA, along a stretch of benchland on the north bank of the Columbia River. It is situated between the Horse Heaven Hills AVA (to its east) and the Columbia Gorge AVA (to its west). Its location along the Columbia River places it adjacent to the border between Washington State and Oregon—although it lies 100% in Washington State.

The petition to establish The Burn of Columbia Valley AVA (originally slated as “The Burn”) was submitted by Kevin Corliss of Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, Joan Davenport (Professor of Soil Sciences at Washington State University), and John Derrick of Mercer Ranches. According to the petition, the area’s distinguishing features include its topography, climate, and soils—as discussed below.

Topography: The area within the new AVA is situated on a moderately-elevated, gently sloping benchland above the Columbia River. The (generally) southeast-facing slope averages just over 7% grade.

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer Map

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer Map

Climate: The area is considered (overall) one of the warmer regions of the Columbia Valley. However, due to the persistent winds from the Columbia Gorge, the heat (as measured by “degree days”) accumulates much more slowly than in the surrounding areas. As a result, the growing season is extended—the grapes in this area are often among the last to be harvested in the state. This lengthy growing season allows for deep flavor development and excellent acid retention in the grapes.

Soils: The soils within the new AVA—dominated by Walla Walla silt loam—are, in many aspects, similar to those of the surrounding areas. However, the soils within The Burn contain a higher proportion of organic matter and lower levels of sand/sandy loam—and, as a result, the soils of The Burn have higher water- and nutrient-retention capacity. This means that the region has a lower need for supplemental irrigation, a lower need for the use of supplemental vine nutrients, and a reduced risk of winter vine injury as compared to the surrounding areas.

The triangle-shaped Burn of Columbia Valley AVA covers a total of 16,870 acres. Of these, approximately 1,500 acres/607 ha have been planted to vines. The region contains two commercial vineyards and no bonded wineries (as of 2021). This is a young growing area; while vines have been planted in the area since 2002, the majority of the vines have been planted since 2015. Cabernet Sauvignon is the leading variety, followed by Syrah, Malbec, Chardonnay, and Sangiovese.

About that name: there is no easy consensus on where the name—The Burn—originated, although there is plenty of evidence that it has been used in reference to the area for generations. The Burn might refer to a local legend that tells of early settlers who set fire to the benchland every fall in order to rejuvenate the native grasses and provide for their horses in the springtime. It could also be based on the Gaelic- German- and English-inspired use of the term burn (as in Bannockburn)—or born (as in Padderborn) or bourne (as in Melbourne)—to refer to a stream or a river.

Welcome to the world: The Burn of Columbia Valley AVA!

P.S. The TTB has also announced a new AVA in California—Palos Verdes Peninsula—to be effective on July 19, 2021. Click here for more details. 

References/for more information:

 Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Washington State Welcomes Two New AVAs! (focus on: the White Bluffs AVA)

  By admin | June 17, 2021 - 11:39 am | ,
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Map via the TTB AVA Explorer Map

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer Map

On June 17, 2021, the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States approved two new American Viticultural Areas (AVAs): the White Bluffs AVA and the Burn of Columbia Valley AVA. When these new AVAs come into force—on July 19, 2021—the total number of AVAs in Washington State will be 18.

This article will focus on the White Bluffs AVA; click here for an article focusing on the Burn of Columbia Valley AVA.

The White Bluffs AVA—named for a steep escarpment located along the eastern shore of the Columbia River—is located with Franklin County, about 10 miles/16 km north of the town of Kennewick. The White Bluffs AVA is a sub-region of the much larger Columbia Valley AVA.

The defining characteristics of the White Bluffs AVA include the area’s topography, soils, and climate. These features—as noted by Dr. Kevin Pogue, Professor of Geology at Whitman College and the author of the original petition—are discussed below.

Topography: The White Bluffs AVA sits atop an elevated plateau, as much as 200 feet/61 meters above the surrounding area (known as the Pasco Basin). As a result, the overall elevation of the region varies between 800 feet/244 meters and 1,000 feet/305 meters above sea level. The plateau is divided by the Ringold Coulee and the Koontz Coulee into two relatively flat areas known as the Columbia Flat and the Owens Flat. In addition, the southern edge of the appellation includes a portion of the south-facing slopes of the namesake White Bluffs. 

Map via the TTB Explorer Map

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer Map

Soils: The topsoil of the area—windblown silt (loess) and alluvial deposits from the Missoula floods—is quite similar to the soils in the surrounding areas. However, what lies beneath—a layer of ancient lakebed sediment with a whitish appearance topped by a layer of caliche (calcium carbonate)—is unique. This layer—known as the Ringold Formation—also contains enough clay so that the soil retains different proportions of water and minerals (as compared to those of the surrounding areas). In addition, the Ringold Formation is deep enough so that the roots of the vines planted in the White Bluffs AVA—unlike the vines in much of the rest of the Columbia Valley AVA—do not ever reach the basalt bedrock. 

Climate: Due to the added elevation, the area within the White Bluffs AVA is protected from the cold air on the surrounding valley floor. This makes for a slightly warmer temperature and longer growing season, as compared with the surrounding area. Vines have been planted in the area since 1972 and have never experienced a freeze during the growing season.

The White Bluffs AVA covers a total of 93,738 total acres (146 square miles), with 1,127 acres/456 ha planted to vines. Currently, there are nine commercial vineyards and one bonded winery—Claar Cellars—located within the boundaries of the appellation. The leading grape varieties include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Riesling, and Sauvignon Blanc.

Welcome to the world, White Bluffs AVA!

P.S. The TTB has also announced a new AVA in California—Palos Verdes Peninsula—to be effective on July 19, 2021. Click here for more details. 

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Nathan “Nearest” Green, Master Distiller

  By admin | February 25, 2021 - 9:17 am | ,
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Photo of Jack Daniels with George Green (Nearest Green's son) via: https://www.jackdaniels.com/en-us/vault

Photo of Jack Daniels with George Green (Nearest Green’s son) via: https://www.jackdaniels.com/en-us/vault

Within the world of spirits, students and connoisseurs alike quickly learn that the story and history of a spirit, the lore behind the bottle, can be as compelling as the actual beverage. Knowing about the people that spent their lives making the products we love allows us to feel connected to them and the entire tradition around those drinks. However, it is very often the case that we do not have the entire story. It takes the work of historians and writers to uncover the stories behind the stories. It took this kind of work to bring one remarkable man out of the shadows of history and into the light of the present day – Nathan “Nearest” Green or as he was known to his friends and family “Uncle Nearest.”

Nearest Green was born into slavery sometime in the early 1800s. The history of his early life is hard to piece together, but by the mid-1800s he was held by a company called Landis & Green which would hire out Green’s labor. Lutheran Minister Dan Call hired Nearest in the 1850s through this company. Call ran a farm, a successful general store, and a still in Lois, TN, just outside of Lynchburg. From all available accounts, Nearest acted as the head distiller for the operation, which was not an uncommon role for enslaved African Americans throughout America.

After working and running the still for Call for some time, a pre-teen Jack Daniels arrived at the operation intent on learning how to make whiskey. Call referred to Nearest as the “best whiskey maker” he knew, making him an ideal mentor for the young Daniels. The two spent years working side by side, making whiskey throughout the entire course of the Civil War. Nearest’s enslavement formally ended with the passage of the 13th Amendment, and after which he chose to continue working with Daniels and Call. By the late 1860s the whiskey business was thriving and after Call had a crisis of conscience he sold his stake to Daniels which resulted in the creation of the Jack Daniel Distillery. Nearest became its first head distiller, the equivalent to a modern-day master distiller.

Nearest worked alongside Jack Daniels for many years, up until his retirement in the 1880s. His career and success made him one of the wealthiest men in Lynchburg and his dedication to distillation became a family tradition. His sons, George and Eli, went to work for Daniels, as well as several of his grandchildren. Ultimately, over the past century and a half, seven generations of Green’s descendants have worked for the Jack Daniels distillery.

Original office building on the grounds of the Jack Daniel's Distillery (Lynchburg, Tennessee)

Original office building on the grounds of the Jack Daniel’s Distillery (Lynchburg, Tennessee)

Nearest Green’s story was common knowledge to the families of Lynchburg. Past historians also knew of his contributions to Tennessee and American whiskey. Yet it was not until a few years ago that the man and legend of Nearest Green entered the mainstream public consciousness – primarily through the work of author Fawn Weaver. Over the course of a year of research, Weaver assembled the facts and pieces of Nearest’s life, spending countless hours interviewing his descendants and the people of Lynchburg. Through oral history, historic records, and artifacts, we now have a more complete look at the early days of Jack Daniels and the indispensable impact Nearest had upon it.

The legacy of Nearest Green is preserved today in several ways. There’s a non-profit organization, the Nearest Green Foundation, dedicated to preserving and sharing the history of Nearest. There’s also a scholarship program, the Nearest Green Legacy Scholarship, dedicated to helping provide educational opportunities to descendants of Nearest. And, perhaps most famously, the Tennessee whiskey brand, Uncle Nearest, that bears his name in tribute to his achievements as an African American distiller in the nineteenth-century.

About the author: Ben Coffelt, CSS, CSW serves as a Sales Director for the Society of Wine Educators (SWE). Originally from California, Ben Coffelt started his wine and spirits career leading customer tastings and staff trainings at Trader Joe’s. His love of history drives his interests, and he’s always eager to learn about a new place, person, or product. He can often be found sipping rum with his French Bulldog, Hobbes.

References/for more information:

Welcome to the World, Tehachapi Mountains AVA!

  By admin | November 19, 2020 - 12:29 pm |
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Map via the AVA Explorer: https://www.ttb.gov/wine/ava-map-explorer

Graphic by SWE based on a map via the AVA Explorer: https://www.ttb.gov/wine/ava-map-explorer

California has a new AVA!

Announced on November 18, 2020, the Tehachapi Mountains AVA will be “officially” become the 252nd AVA (American Viticultural Area) in the United States (and California’s 141st) on December 21.

The new AVA is located in California’s Kern County, about 120 miles inland (east) of San Luis Obispo. It does not overlap any existing appellations. The AVA surrounds the town of Tehachapi and lies partially within the high-elevation Tehachapi Mountains (part of the larger Sierra Nevada Mountain Range). Wine growing and production began in the area in 2006.

According to the proposal (originally submitted in June of 2018), the distinguishing features of the Tehachapi Mountains AVA include its climate and topography:

Climate: Despite its high elevation, the Tehachapi Mountain area is not typically subject to severe frost or severe winter weather. Warm winds from the San Joaquin Valley (to the west) and the Mojave Desert (to the east) keep winter temperatures moderate, although Spring freezes do occasionally occur. Temperatures rarely exceed 100°F during the summer. The area is best suited to those grapes recommended for Winkler Zones II and III.

Map via the AVA Explorer: https://www.ttb.gov/wine/ava-map-explorer

Map via the AVA Explorer: https://www.ttb.gov/wine/ava-map-explorer

Topography: The elevation within the area ranges from 3,600 feet to 5,400 feet with the majority of the land situated between 3,800 feet and 4,600 feet of elevation. These vineyards are among the highest-elevation vineyards in California. Located at the southern end of the Sierra Nevada Mountain range, the area consists of slopes, valleys, and rolling hills.

The Tehachapi Mountains AVA covers a total of 58,000 acres of land, and currently contains 7 commercial vineyards and approximately 25 acres of vines. At last count, the area had two wineries. Triassic Vineyards (located a few blocks away from the Adorable Alpaca Ranch) produces a range of interesting wines and boasts 7 acres of vineyards planted to Zinfandel, Viognier, Tempranillo and Syrah. Dorner Family Vineyards boasts a gorgeous wedding facility, a Tuscan-inspired tasting room, and several acres of Riesling and Zinfandel.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Guest Post: A Trip to the Santa Ynez Valley

  By admin | September 24, 2020 - 12:27 pm |
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Koehler Winery

Koehler Winery

Today we have a guest post from SWE member Jan Crocker, CSW. Jan, a current resident of southern California,  earned her Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) certification in 2016 and is currently studying for the Certified Specialist of Spirts (CSS).  Wish her luck!

For more than a decade, the Santa Ynez Valley meant Pinot Noir and “Sideways” to wine and movie fans alike. With many of the film’s scenes shot inside The Hitching Post II steakhouse in nearby Buellton, restaurant-goers bemoaned the near-impossibility of getting a seat inside the eatery, let alone at its newly famous bar. Of course, customers lucky enough to secure a table ordered the wine that made the restaurant famous: Hitching Post “Highline” Pinot Noir.

During the 16 years after the release of “Sideways,” however, the valley has evolved into far more than a haven for bright, zesty Pinot Noirs and lively Chardonnays. It is now home to 120 wineries that produce 31 different varieties, with lesser-known grapes Lagrein, Cinsault, and Grenache Blanc thriving in the AVA’s vineyards alongside the more famous mainstays. Often thought to share the balmy temperatures of nearby Santa Barbara, its summer afternoons are surprisingly toasty, with the mercury often touching 90 degrees Fahrenheit – and its nights dropping to the low 50s, even at the end of July.

Brander Syrah Rose'

Brander Syrah Rose’

The Santa Ynez Mountains provide a rain shadow for the region, sealing in daytime sunshine and warmth that benefit Rhône varieties Syrah, Grenache Noir, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, and Viognier. Additionally, brisk late-afternoon winds and the sandy, largely infertile soils of the region’s lower elevations favor these classic grape varieties.

Two years ago, my husband and I were lucky enough to spend five lovely, warm summer days in Santa Ynez. We managed to visit seven wineries and three tasting rooms—Stolpman Vineyards, Dragonette Cellars, and Flying Goat Cellars. These three wineries are required to have their on-premise tasting facilities separate from their wine-production sites for a good reason—their vineyards are located well in the region’s inland reaches, near Happy Canyon and Ballard, where narrow, winding roads are the norm.

Jan and David Crocker at Brander Winery

Jan and David Crocker at Brander Winery

Although we found our way to wineries on the outskirts of the Foxen Trail—Brander Vineyard & Winery as well as Sunstone Winery come to mind—we gravitated toward the Rhône-esque wineries nearest Los Olivos, the tiny town roughly six miles from Buellton. Surprises and learning awaited us; my Pinot Noir-loving husband and yours truly, a fan of old-world Syrah to the core, both found selections we loved. Flying Goat’s Rio Vista Vineyards’ Pinot Noir spoke to his enjoyment of Dijon-driven Pinot Noirs, while I went weak in the knees over Melville Vineyards’ “Donna’s” Syrah, intensely soulful and brooding. Both of us discovered Koehler Winery—a site we has never heard about before—but have since been eager to suggest to wine fans.

Absolutely, we’ll return to the Valley over the next year or so, delighted to revisit our favorite wineries—and excited to explore new ones as they open.

 

Meet the Board: George Blanckensee

  By admin | September 15, 2020 - 12:49 pm |
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George Blackensee, CSW

George Blanckensee, CSW

Our Meet the Board series is our way to introduce the newest members of SWE’s Board of Directors to our members. Today, we’re delighted to highlight George Blanckensee. George is currently the Estate Director of Chateau Montelena, a position he has held for three years, and he has been with the winery for over eleven years.

While he has spent a long time working in Napa Valley, George is originally from San Francisco and spent twenty years in Southern California. He went to University of California, Irvine, where he majored in Political Science. While in college, he worked at a hotel and had his first experience working with wine: “My first job in the industry was working in room service at a four-star hotel. I learned about the wines the hotel had, by selling them to guests over the phone when they placed their orders.”

One of George’s favorite aspects of the wine and spirits industry is the hospitality side. He loves hosting guests and visitors at the winery which is also one of his key responsibilities. “Hosting people is always fun. Sometimes, you can’t be sure if they’re learning or fully enjoying their experience at the winery. But then they go away and post something on social media or send an actual note to me on how amazing their time was. That’s very rewarding,” George told us.

George first heard about the SWE while working at Chateau Montelena. They’ve held an Industry Membership, which George has used to enroll many team members in the Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) program. He understands the importance or education and professional development. “It brought me to where I am,” he said, “I immersed myself in all the wine education related opportunities, from trade tastings, attending events and seminars. I was a sponge taking in as much as I could.” For those just beginning in the wine and spirits industry, his advice is to jump into the deep end. “Go out and learn as much as you can! When you think you know everything, start over because you don’t. There’s always something new to learn.”

When not working, George enjoys traveling, cooking, and sports. We’re delighted to have him join the SWE Board of Directors. Welcome to the Board, George!

Post authored by Ben Coffelt, CSS, CSW

On the Radar: Jan Crocker, CSW

  By admin | August 30, 2020 - 9:14 am |
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Jan Crocker, CSW

Jan Crocker, CSW

I am still surprised that wine found me, despite my best-laid plans to find other career paths and interests. With a bachelor’s degree in communications/newspaper journalism from California State University at Fullerton and two postgraduate teaching credentials, I had zero interest in Vitis vinifera until my late 30s.

While living in Orange County, California in the late ‘90s, my husband David and I were fans of Rembrandt’s Beautiful Food, a long-time fine-dining spot in Placentia still missed by locals. When owner Bernie Gordon offered my husband David and I a bottle of Casa Lapostolle Sauvignon Blanc at cost price – a princely $12 – to share with our Thanksgiving dinner in 1998, he checked back with us as we tasted the fresh, zesty white with the brined and roasted turkey breast. “What do you think of it?” he asked with gentle but intense interest. “It goes perfectly with the turkey and the veggies,” I replied. “And it’s perfect for an 85-degree day.” Bernie beamed, delighted that two of his regulars were ready for their own wine journey.

That journey led us along different paths over the next several years: visiting Inniskillin Winery in Ontario’s Niagara-on-the-Lake and returning home with a bottle of its luscious Vidal ice wine, joining a neighborhood wine group for weekly tasting events, and later organizing a Syrah/Shiraz tasting event at Rembrandt’s for the group’s 22 members. By 2003, I’d been chosen to select wine for my husband’s business dinners.

By fall 2003, David and I moved to downtown Long Beach. A few weeks after we had finished settling into our new place, I made my first of many visits to Vin de Pays, a tiny, quirky specialty wine shop—with all selections $15 and under—a mere three blocks from home. After I’d browsed the store for a few moments, owner Tom Keim gave me the cook’s tour of his site, excitedly pointing out his favorite new additions. I’d planned to buy only one bottle, but his enthusiasm for introducing then-obscure varietals and regions won me over. I brought home five bottles for barely $32.

Soon, David and I were regulars at Vin de Pays’ weekly tasting events. We both took notes of each wine in every week’s tasting lineup—eight wines, for $8—as I pored through the wine books in the tasting room, including Jancis Robinson’s Oxford Companion of Wine and Vines, Grapes & Wines, as well as Karen MacNeil’s The Wine Bible. By the end of 2005, we’d sampled about 700 wines.

2006 was the year we’d decided to open our own Vin de Pays in Yorba Linda, a city in northeastern Orange County. With nearly all of the same domestic and imported selections available at the Long Beach location, as well as the same $15-and-under pricing format, we opened our brick-and-mortar shop in early April 2007.

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A year later, I’d moved into the next phase of my wine career: working for a number of small wine brokers with portfolios of limited-production offerings from nearly every region from Europe, South Africa, South America, and more. Since few of my customers—owners of restaurants and wine bars around Orange County—were familiar with Mendoza Malbec or Stellenbosch Sauvignon Blanc a decade ago, it was up to me to offer information about the terroirs of the grapes’ regions, and explain why those regions’ weather or elevation levels gave those wines their character. By 2011, I moved into the business-to-consumer area of wine, working with Constellation Wines U.S. by promoting Kim Crawford, Robert Mondavi, and Wild Horse in at Costco stores throughout the area, and later a variety of wines and spirits in both “wet” and dry demos for Advantage Solutions at several local supermarkets.

In 2014, I’d become a beverage steward for Vons Grocery Stores, at a location with long-time customers who were equally long-time fans of Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay and Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon. A year later, I joined the Society of Wine Educators, and plunged into the CSW program. Thanks to the informative yet readable study guide, workbook, and engaging webinars by SWE Director of Education Jane Nickles, I earned my CSW in late October 2016.

Finally, I’ve had the opportunity to become familiar with the Ramona Valley AVA over the last five years. This region, about 30 miles south of Temecula, continues to emerge as a compelling site for sun-loving reds and whites, and it’s been a pleasure to get to know the winemakers and winery owners of most of Ramona’s wineries. Our nine visits Ramona since 2015 provided the material for my two articles for Wine, Wit, & Wisdom in September 2016 and December 2019.

Since late 2018, I’ve been a private wine consultant for local wine fans. I’m also a current Certified Specialist of Spirits candidate, eager to expand my long-time interest in vodka, gin, and other wonders of the world of distillation.

-Jan Crocker, CSW

If you are a SWE certificate holder and would like to be featured in our “On the Radar” series, please contact our Director of Education and Certification, Jane A. Nickles: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org