France has a New AOC—Sable de Camargue!

Map of Sable de Camargue via the INAO

Map of Sable de Camargue via the INAO

As of October 10 (2023), France has one more wine approved at the protected designation of origin (PDO)—also referred to as (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée/AOC) level: The Sable de Camargue. This region has a long history of producing unique gris– (light rosé-) style wines and was previously approved as a Vin de Pay (Indication Géographique Protégée/IGP) region. (The IGP has been cancelled and replaced by the AOC.)

The name of the appellation refers to the sandy soils (sable) of the Camargue—a vast plain and the largest river delta in Europe tucked between the two arms of the Rhône River just before it reaches the Mediterranean Sea.

The Sable de Camargue AOC is approved for light rosé wines only; in the Cahier des Charges the wines are referred to as vin gris and vin gris de gris. Both styles are required to be made using minimal or no skin contact (a method often referred to as “direct press”).

The wines are described as “pale salmon in color” with fruity (white fruit, citrus fruit, exotic fruit, red fruit), floral, and mineral aromas. The gris de gris wines are lighter in color, more subtle, and quite delicate in aroma and flavor.

The allowed grape varieties are as follows:

  • Sable de Camargue Gris:
    • Minimum 55% (combined) Grenache Noir, Grenache Gris, Carignan, Cinsault, Grenache Blanc, Marselan, Muscat of Alexandria, Syrah, Ugni Blanc, and/or Rolle (Vermentino)
      • Note: in practice, Grenache Noir and/or Grenache Gris form the backbone of most wines
    • Other allowed grapes include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc
  • Sable de Camargue Gris de Gris:
    • Only Grenache Gris is allowed

graphic-map-camargueThis area is highly unique due to its sandy soil, high winds, predominant humidity, and proximity to saltwater marshes. According to the Cahier des Charges, these factors combine to provide the grapes with a slow, even ripening; unique pink, bluish-grey color, and high levels of acidity. These factors, combined with the qualified production techniques create a style of wine known as vins des sables (wines from the sands).

Welcome to the world, Sable de Camargue AOC!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Meet the Board: Trudy Thomas, CSE

Trudy Thomas, CSE

Trudy Thomas, CSE

Trudy Thomas, CSE is a newly elected member of the Board of Directors of the Society of Wine Educators (SWE). Trudy is a nationally known beverage professional, hospitality leader, wine director, spirits educator and mixologist. A Kentucky native, she grew up in an area rich in the tradition of moonshine which inspired an early fascination, not just with the bourbon industry, but with the people who make up the remarkable community that crafts, lives, and breathes bourbon.

Following her passion for the industry, she began working as a bartender in college and eventually moved to Chicago where she started managing beverage programs for regional restaurant chains, overseeing the entire program not just wine, spirits, beer, and cocktails, but coffee, tea, and other beverages, a path eventually leading to her first job as a National Director of Beverage when she joined the Wolfgang Puck Restaurant Group.

She later joined Marriott International at the JW Marriott Camelback Inn in Scottsdale, Arizona in 2008, and was hired to raise the bar on their beverage program during the renovation of the historic property, including opening BLT Steak Scottsdale with Chef Laurent Tourondel. In 2014 she had the opportunity to move closer to her Kentucky home when she joined Marriott’s largest property Gaylord Opryland Resort and Convention Center in Nashville as Director of Beverage. In this role she was responsible for overseeing a 25-million-dollar beverage program for 20 restaurants and lounges, Soundwaves a 5-acre Water Park, Golf Course, Paddle Boat, and Night Club as well as room service and banquets.

Trudy holds multiple certifications including being one of the first to achieve the Certified Spirits Educator (CSE) designation from the Society of Wine Educators. She was one of the first women in the United States to judge brown spirits and has served as a judge to both the prestigious San Francisco Spirit’s Competition and as a wine and spirits judge at Chicago’s Beverage Tasting Institute.

Trudy currently lives in Nashville and is employed by Southworth Development as the Corporate Director of Beverage and Beverage Experience. When she isn’t listening to live music in one of her favorite venues, Trudy enjoys hiking, golf, and thoroughbred horse racing.

Welcome to the Board, Trudy Thomas!

Meet the Board: Rick Lopus, CWE

Rick Lopus, CWE

Rick Lopus, CWE

Rick Lopus, CWE is a newly elected member of the Board of Directors of the Society of Wine Educators (SWE). Today, he tells us about his journey to SWE in his own words:

“After several years in the restaurant business—as a server, bartender, GM and Chef—I stumbled into a job that would change my life. I joined the staff at Michigan’s best wine retailer/gourmet food shop, originally as the manager of groceries, but due to some personnel changes, I became the wine buyer. Though I knew wine a bit at the time, I was soon immersed in the wine trade in a much (much) bigger way: overseeing the purchasing and sales at a multi-store chain, which included attending as well as hosting all manner of wine events. I was also tasked with going on buying trips—several trips to Europe annually—as well as the rest of the world. It was a very auspicious time to be in the wine business: American were rapidly discovering fine wine, and the ‘classics’ were incredibly affordable then, so being exposed to Grand Cru Burgundies and classed-growth Bordeaux was a daily thing. I recall selling 1971 Gaja Barbaresco for $15 a bottle; we sold futures of 1982 First Growths for $350 a case (of 12), and Comte Lafon Meursault for $25 a bottle, and DRC Echezeaux for $69.99 a bottle. Alas, those days are long gone!

I left that role after 6 years to open my own wine distributor—Decanter Imports. Decanter was a success and after 7 years I received an offer ‘too good to refuse’ to sell to a larger wholesaler. I then joined the team at Michigan’s largest wine distributor and commenced to upgrade their catalogue dramatically. After 7 years there, I was approached by a winery group, so I made the jump to become a ‘supplier’ (Chateau Ste Michelle). After 3 years there, my previous employer reached out since he had just purchased another, very large wholesaler and I was asked to oversee sales of that statewide company as Vice President of Sales; that was 22 years ago. Today we are Michigan’s largest wholesaler, with over 1200 employees,  9,000 wines, and a similar number of spirits.

Along the way, my knowledge and interest in wine continued to grow, and at the urging of a wine industry friend, I decided to sit the CWE and, happily, passed. This led to an intense interest in sharing this knowledge and to increase the knowledge of our entire sales staff. We now have in our building around 95 CSW’s, 75 CSS’s, 2 CWE’s, as well as several WSET and CMS-A credentialed team members. Additionally, we have 34 Certified Sake Advisors on staff.  Note that though I am a strong advocate for our staff to have strong knowledge in order for them to act as true consultants, I always caution them to make sure they use their knowledge as a tool, rather than a weapon; some of the highly credentialed wine trade out there do the opposite, dismissing people that don’t know everything about wine.

My hopes in joining the Board at SWE is to help assure its financial health for the long haul. Additionally–and as an ‘older person’ myself, I think I can say this—to try to bring in younger members and leadership…again, all with the intent of SWE thriving for many years into the future.”

Welcome to the Board, Rick Lopus!

Meet the Board: Wanda Mann, CSW

Wanda Mann, CSW

Wanda Mann, CSW

Wanda Mann, CSW is a newly elected member of the Board of Directors of the Society of Wine Educators (SWE). Wanda attended her first professional wine tasting in 2009, and that pivotal event led her on a quest for wine knowledge and became the catalyst for a new career!

Wanda began her journey into wine education by studying wine on her own and—over the years—she developed an impressive, broad base of wine knowledge. In 2014 she decided to take her wine education up to the next level and registered for SWE’s Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) program. As she describes it, “after months of study, and a mountain of flashcards, I took the exam and passed. Earning my CSW was a personal triumph that gave me added confidence as I navigated my path in the wine industry.”

Wanda currently serves as the East Coast Editor of The SOMM Journal and Tasting Panel magazines in addition to creating original content for the Wine with Wanda website and social media platforms. Her writings about wine, winemakers, and wine regions have been published in Food & Wine, Decanter, NAPA Magazine, and VinePair. In addition, Wanda is a frequent present at wine events, including the Charleston Wine & Food Festival and the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen (among others).

When asked about her goals for her time as a member of the Board of Directors of SWE, Wanda says, “Wine has the power to bring people together, but that can only happen if we are genuinely engaged in making wine education accessible. The foundational knowledge provided by SWE levels the playing field, and it’s exciting to see how people use the information garnered from SWE to build their careers and communicate about wine creatively.  I plan to leverage my skills and contacts to communicate how the certification programs offered by the Society of Wine Educators bolster knowledge, confidence, and opportunities; and contribute to the industry’s credibility.”

Welcome to the Board, Wanda Mann!

Meet the Board: Gary Pickard, CSE

Gary Pickard, CSE

Gary Pickard, CSE

Gary Pickard, CSE is a newly elected member of the Board of Directors of the Society of Wine Educators (SWE). Gary started his wine and spirits journey in a place where most do not—the library. Fascinated by the behind-the-scenes aspects of the industry, he earned his Certified Specialist of Spirits (CSS) certification promptly began work as a Craft Spirits Specialist for New York-based distributor, Empire Merchants. This job—working with Manhattan and Brooklyn’s elite wine and spirits retail accounts—led to a position in Brown-Forman’s newly-established Emerging Brands division as a Market Manager for the state of New Jersey.

While at Brown-Forman, Gary was also the United States point person for their global Old & Rare Whisky project. Currently, Gary is employed at Pacific Edge Wine & Spirits as their Regional Manager for the Northeast market.

Along the way, Gary has earned other certifications, including his Level 3 Award in Wine and Level 2 Award in Spirits from the Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET), and his Executive Bourbon Stewardship from Moonshine University. Most recently, Gary has earned his Diploma in Single Malt Whisky from Edinburgh Whisky Academy and his Certified Spirits Educator (CSE) certification from the Society of Wine Educators.

Gary has been a wine and spirits judge for competitions and publications over the past 8 years, including The Fifty Best, The Tasting Alliance’s New York World Wine & Spirits Competition, Winemaker Magazine, and others. He has been interviewed on the subject of spirits by media outlets such as Whisky Advocate, Fire & Barley, and Livestrong.com. He is also a member of International Drinks Specialists. Originally from Mastic Beach, Long Island, NY; Gary now resides in Jersey City with a sizable bottle collection and a very understanding wife.

When asked about his goals for his time as a SWE Board Member, Gary replied, “I believe that I owe so much of my career in this industry to SWE. As a newcomer and unknown applicant in the ever-competitive field of beverage alcohol, achieving my CSS set me apart from the pack and I believe it showed my employers and future colleagues that I was serious about my trajectory and that they could rely on me for being a resource of knowledge for whichever products I was representing at the time. Being a Director on the Board is my way of attempting to pay the debt that I owe to SWE for giving me a jump start in this new chapter of my life. I also hope it will allow me to help other people who are currently struggling to establish themselves in the beverage industry.”

Welcome to the Board, Gary Pickard!

 

Guest Blogger—Move Over Beer: Wine Comes to Ballparks

Today we have a post written by guest blogger Matilda Parente, MD, CSW. Matilda is a good friend of SWE and has been one of most popular conference presenters in years past. Today, she tells us a story of wine and baseball…what’s not to love?

Photo credit: Matilda Parente

Photo credit: Matilda Parente

The end of the 2023 baseball season promises tight pennant races, riveting playoff series and—fans hope—a thrilling World Series. Wine lovers lucky enough to score game tickets have another reason to cheer, as wine worth a sip is popping up at ballparks across the country.

Wine has been moving in on beer—the traditional preferred ballpark beverage—since at least 1997. Wine service began that year for the San Francisco Giants’ home opener at Candlestick Park. Wine offerings went deep in 2013 when Zipz, a company that introduced a novel single-serve wine glass, partnered with Fetzer to bring a line of premium wine offerings to Major League Baseball crowds, hitting safely in San Francisco, Tampa Bay and Seattle.

In 2020, Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi struck a partnership with MLB to become its official wine, expanding upon its baseball-approved status as the official wine of the Los Angeles Dodgers.

The San Francisco Giants rallied around wine once again in 2022, when it became the first team in all professional sports to bring on a Master Sommelier—the Bay Area’s Evan Goldstein—with the aim to elevate an already robust ballpark wine program. Some of Goldstein’s pairing ideas have included a chilled Beaujolais Villages with a Louisiana Dog, an Argentine Malbec with nachos, and a lower-alcohol Merlot or Cabernet (Sauvignon or Franc) with tri-tip.

Photo credit: Matila Parente

Photo credit: Matilda Parente

At most ballparks now, food and beverage offerings have undergone a much-needed makeover. Fans no longer need to sacrifice game-day palates to rubbery hot dogs on bland bread washed down with a forgettable beer. Along with dozens of craft beer offerings, Petco Park in San Diego, named the 2023 best ballpark in the country by USA Today for the second year in a row, gives vinous-minded fans a line-up of 25 exceptional wines at its Belle Glos Wine Cellar and Belle Glos Wine Cave outposts. Wine pours can be found across the park’s exceptional food outlets, which include an outpost of Taiwan’s Din Tai Fung and San Diego’s own Puesto and Grand Ole BBQ y Asado, the latter two serving mouth-watering birria tacos and Argentine choripan, housemade chorizo and chimichurri on a warm bolillo roll.

The wine service at Petco Park is a far cry from that found at typical sporting venues; fans can choose from premium wines like the home-run offerings usually found at higher end restaurants. Bottles on the Reserve List can range from Cristal, red and white wines by Far Niente to Napa’s Hundred Acre. Best part about the $1,000 price tag? It’s a cashless venue. Fans can also order wine delivered to their seats, whether by 7-ounce pour or by the bottle, served in a souvenir Padres logo plastic carafe with stemless cups. Score early, as wine service at Petco ends with the first pitch of the 8th inning.

The stadium food and beverage revamp is coming in hot across the country. At Yankee Stadium, NYY Steak has become a destination steakhouse, complete with a smart, extensive wine list. Out west, the Seattle Mariners have partnered with Chateau Ste. Michelle for its many wine outlets at T-Mobile Park, which include wine on tap. Down south, the wine bar at the Houston Astros’ Minute Maid Park even serves frosés. But if your taste runs Veuve Clicquot instead, head to the park’s 19th Hole, said to have the largest wine selection in MLB. You know, Texas.

So, get out to the yard before the season ends and indulge in savory and out-of-the-box ballpark eats, served up with a glass or carafe of well-chosen wines worth a sip. Some say they make the crack of the bat sound even sweeter.

Matilda Parente, MD, CSW is a wine educator based in San Diego.

 

Austria: Here Come the Crus!

Photo by Chris Krebs via the Austrian Wine Marketing Board

Photo by Chris Krebs via the Austrian Wine Marketing Board

As announced via the website of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board, the vineyards of Austria will be eligible for classification as of 2025. As such, the finest vineyards of the land may soon bear the title of Grosse Lage (Grand Cru) or Erste Lage (Premier Cru).

The legal basis for this official, nationwide classification system is the recently passed Wine Law Collective Decree of 2023. Established vineyards—designated as Rieden by some regional organizations—may first be designated as Erste Lage (Premier Cru). Vineyards so designated will be eligible for Grosse Lage (Grand Cru) status after five years.

  • Additional qualifications for the new designations include the following:
    • Vineyards must be located within a Districtus Austriae Controllatus (DAC) region that has previously defined the three available quality levels of wine (Gebietswein/Regional Wine, Ortswein/Village Wine, and Riedenwein/Single-vineyard Wine)
    • Grapes must be hand-harvested
    • Maximum yields will be set, and are expected to be substantially lower than the general standard for the region
    • Designations must be approved by the National Wine Committee. Approval will require the submission of a detailed application describing the geography, soil, climate, historical significance, value, and potential quality of each vineyard and wine.

The ratings are expected to appear on wine labels beginning in 2025 (at the earliest).

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Bordeaux: Here Come the Hybrids!

10549052 - ripe grapes on grape-vine in autumn in vineyardAugust 25, 2023: The hybrids have officially arrived! As per an announcement via France’s Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité (INAO), a few select disease-resistant hybrid grape varieties will be allowed for use (as accessory varieties) in the wines of the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur AOCs.

The four newly-approved disease-resistant hybrid grapes—which will be making their way into the ground in the next few months—are as follows:

Floréal: Floréal: is an interspecific white hybrid produced via Villaris and a descendant of Muscadinia rotundifolia. The grape tends to be highly aromatic with high acidity and tropical fruit/tree fruit aromas and flavors. Floréal is approved for use in the white and rosé wines of the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur AOCs (with the exception of the white wines of the Bordeax-Haut-Benauge sub-region).

Sauvignac: Sauvignac (Blanc) is an interspecific white hybrid resulting from a descendant of Sauvignon x Riesling X an unknown hybrid (it’s complicated). The grape is known for aromas of tropical fruit and citrus, but it may lack acidity. Sauvignac is approved for use in the white and rosé wines of the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur AOCs (with the exception of the white wines of the Bordeax-Haut-Benauge sub-region).

15283784 - two bunches of gewurtztraminer white wine grapes on the vineSauvignier Gris: Sauvignier Gris is an interspecific, grey (gris)-skinned hybrid created via Seyval Blanc and Zähringer (although there has previously been much confusion and debate regarding its parentage). The grape is known to have thick skins, a good deal of extract, and a somewhat neutral aroma. Sauvignier Gris is approved for use in the white and rosé wines of the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur AOCs (with the exception of the white wines of the Bordeax-Haut-Benauge sub-region).

Vidoc: Vidoc is an interspecific red hybrid produced via a descendant of Muscadinia rotundifolia and  Regent. The grapes are known to produce full-bodied red wines with deep color and spicy aromas. Vidoc is approved for use in the red and rosé wines of the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur AOCs.

The application of such “accessory varieties” (a group that includes all of these newly-approved hybrids) is going to remain minimal for the foreseeable future, as their combined use is currently limited to a maximum of 5% to 10% of the blend in any given wine. In addition, the INAO limits the total plantings of hybrid grape varieties to a maximum of 5% of any given estate’s holding.

Note: Rumor has it that the Médoc and Haut-Médoc AOCs have applied for permitted use of the same hybrid grapes as well as Voltis. We’ll be watching to see when and if this update is approved.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

(News flash) Entre-deux-Mers AOC Sees Red!

Glasses red wineTucked in between Bordeaux’s two famous rivers—the Dordogne and the Garonne—Entre-deux-Mers has been a white-wine-only appellation since its inception in 1937.

However, as of August 25 (2023), there’s been a (big) change, and Entre-deux-Mers is now approved for the production of red wines.

Grape varieties approved for use in the red wines of the Entre-deux-Mers AOC include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec (Cot), Cabernet Franc, and Petite Verdot. Carmenère is considered an “accessory variety” and is limited to a maximum of 30% of the final blend of any specific wine. In addition, the blend must consist of at least two grape varieties.

  • Other regulations concerning Entre-deux-Mers Rouge include the following:
    • Minimum of 12% abv
    • Must undergo malolactic fermentation: maximum of 0.3 g/L malic acid
    • Must be vinified dry: maximum of 3 g/L residual sugar
    • Vines must also be planted at a minimum density of 4,500 vines per hectare (as compared to a minimum of 4,000 vines per hectare for [generic] Bordeaux AOC wines)

It is estimated that there are more than 5,700 hectares/14,000 acres of red grapes planted in the Entre-deux-Mers region that meet the density requirements. Red grapes grown in the remaining vineyards may continue to be made into wine that is bottled under the Bordeaux AOC or Bordeaux Supérieur AOC.

Note: as of the date of this post, the Entre-deux-Mers Haut Benauge sub-appellation is still approved for white wines only.

Welcome to the world, Entre-deux-Mers Rouge!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Welcome to the World, Winters Highlands AVA!

Base map via the TTB AVA Explorer (click to enlarge)

Base map via the TTB AVA Explorer (click to enlarge)

On August 28 (2023), the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States announced the approval of the Winters Highlands American Viticultural Area (AVA). The new AVA is located in portions of California’s Solano and Yolo Counties.

The Winters Highlands AVA is inland from the North Coast AVA and not located within any other AVA. The new AVA is situated between the California Coast Range and the Sacramento River Valley and includes the eastern most foothills of the northern Coastal Range with gentle to steep slopes at elevations ranging between I00 feet/30 m and 400 feet/120 m above sea level.

According to the original petition—submitted on behalf of Berryessa Gap Vineyards and originally submitted in November of 2023—the distinguishing features of the Winters Highlands AVA include its soil and climate—as described below.

Soil: The soils in the Winters Highlands AVA—consisting mainly of moderately well-drained clay and loam derived from sedimentary soils—tend to stay warm in the winter and cool in the summer. They are similar in parent material to the soils found in the surrounding areas; however, the texture differs due to variances in erosion and weathering.

Base map via the TTB AVA Explorer (click to enlarge)

Base map via the TTB AVA Explorer (click to enlarge)

Climate: The new AVA is located on the eastern (inland) side of the California Coast Ranges, which provides some shelter from the cooling effect of the Pacific Ocean. However, the Berryessa Gap—a break in the mountains where Putah Creek flows into Lake Berryessa—allows for some cooling effect (particularly in the evenings). As a result, while the new AVA has more degree days and is warmer overall than most of the surrounding areas; it does tend to be cooler at night and therefore benefits from the “warm days/cool nights” conditions beneficial to the cultivation of Mediterranean grape varieties.

The Winters Highlands AVA covers a total of 7,296 acres; of these, approximately 134 acres are currently planted with commercial vineyards (with another 60 acres in the planning stages). Petite Sirah, Tempranillo, Zinfandel, and Malbec are the leading red grape varieties; white varieties include Chardonnay, Albariño, Verdejo, and Sauvignon Blanc. There are currently three wineries—including Berryessa Gap Vineyards and Turkovich Family Wines—located within the new AVA (as well as several in the planning stages).

When the Winters Highlands AVA is brought into force—on September 28, 2023—the total number of AVAs in the United States will be 269; of these, 149 will be in California.

Welcome to the world, Winters Highlands AVA!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org