Wine, Wit, and Wisdom

Photo by Chris Krebs via the Austrian Wine Marketing Board

As announced via the website of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board, the vineyards of Austria will be eligible for classification as of 2025. As such, the finest vineyards of the land may soon bear the title of Grosse Lage (Grand Cru) or Erste Lage (Premier Cru).

The legal basis for this official, nationwide classification system is the recently passed Wine Law Collective Decree of 2023. Established vineyards—designated as Rieden by some regional organizations—may first be designated as Erste Lage (Premier Cru). Vineyards so designated will be eligible for Grosse Lage (Grand Cru) status after five years.

• Additional qualifications for the new designations include the following:
  • Vineyards must be located within a Districtus Austriae Controllatus (DAC) region that has previously defined the three available quality levels of wine (Gebietswein/Regional Wine, Ortswein/Village Wine, and Riedenwein/Single-vineyard Wine)
  • Grapes must be hand-harvested
  • Maximum yields will be set, and are expected to be substantially lower than the general standard for the region
  • Designations must be approved by the National Wine Committee. Approval will require the submission of a detailed application describing the geography, soil, climate, historical significance, value, and potential quality of each vineyard and wine.

The ratings are expected to appear on wine labels beginning in 2025 (at the earliest).

References/for more information:

• https://www.austrianwine.com/press-multimedia/news/news-1/article/austria-defines-the-legal-basis-for-an-official-vineyard-classification-system
• Wine Law Collective Decree of Austria 2023 (only available in German)

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

August 25, 2023: The hybrids have officially arrived! As per an announcement via France’s Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité (INAO), a few select disease-resistant hybrid grape varieties will be allowed for use (as accessory varieties) in the wines of the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur AOCs.

The four newly-approved disease-resistant hybrid grapes—which will be making their way into the ground in the next few months—are as follows:

Floréal: Floréal: is an interspecific white hybrid produced via Villaris and a descendant of Muscadinia rotundifolia. The grape tends to be highly aromatic with high acidity and tropical fruit/tree fruit aromas and flavors. Floréal is approved for use in the white and rosé wines of the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur AOCs (with the exception of the white wines of the Bordeax-Haut-Benauge sub-region).

Sauvignac: Sauvignac (Blanc) is an interspecific white hybrid resulting from a descendant of Sauvignon x Riesling X an unknown hybrid (it’s complicated). The grape is known for aromas of tropical fruit and citrus, but it may lack acidity. Sauvignac is approved for use in the white and rosé wines of the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur AOCs (with the exception of the white wines of the Bordeax-Haut-Benauge sub-region).

Sauvignier Gris: Sauvignier Gris is an interspecific, grey (gris)-skinned hybrid created via Seyval Blanc and Zähringer (although there has previously been much confusion and debate regarding its parentage). The grape is known to have thick skins, a good deal of extract, and a somewhat neutral aroma. Sauvignier Gris is approved for use in the white and rosé wines of the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur AOCs (with the exception of the white wines of the Bordeax-Haut-Benauge sub-region).

Vidoc: Vidoc is an interspecific red hybrid produced via a descendant of Muscadinia rotundifolia and  Regent. The grapes are known to produce full-bodied red wines with deep color and spicy aromas. Vidoc is approved for use in the red and rosé wines of the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur AOCs.

The application of such “accessory varieties” (a group that includes all of these newly-approved hybrids) is going to remain minimal for the foreseeable future, as their combined use is currently limited to a maximum of 5% to 10% of the blend in any given wine. In addition, the INAO limits the total plantings of hybrid grape varieties to a maximum of 5% of any given estate’s holding.

Note: Rumor has it that the Médoc and Haut-Médoc AOCs have applied for permitted use of the same hybrid grapes as well as Voltis. We’ll be watching to see when and if this update is approved.

References/for more information:

• Bordeaux AOC Cahier des Charges August 2023
• Bordeaux Superieur AOC Cahier des Charges August 2023
• Floréal at Planet Grape: https://plantgrape.plantnet-project.org/en/cepage/Floreal
• Sauvignac at Planet Grape:  https://plantgrape.plantnet-project.org/en/recherche/Sauvignac
• Sauvignier Gris via the Wines of Austria website: https://www.austrianwine.com/our-wine/grape-varieties/white-wine/souvignier-gris/
• Vidoc at Planet Grape:  https://plantgrape.plantnet-project.org/en/cepage/Vidoc

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Tucked in between Bordeaux’s two famous rivers—the Dordogne and the Garonne—Entre-deux-Mers has been a white-wine-only appellation since its inception in 1937.

However, as of August 25 (2023), there’s been a (big) change, and Entre-deux-Mers is now approved for the production of red wines.

Grape varieties approved for use in the red wines of the Entre-deux-Mers AOC include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec (Cot), Cabernet Franc, and Petite Verdot. Carmenère is considered an “accessory variety” and is limited to a maximum of 30% of the final blend of any specific wine. In addition, the blend must consist of at least two grape varieties.

• Other regulations concerning Entre-deux-Mers Rouge include the following:
  • Minimum of 12% abv
  • Must undergo malolactic fermentation: maximum of 0.3 g/L malic acid
  • Must be vinified dry: maximum of 3 g/L residual sugar
  • Vines must also be planted at a minimum density of 4,500 vines per hectare (as compared to a minimum of 4,000 vines per hectare for [generic] Bordeaux AOC wines)

It is estimated that there are more than 5,700 hectares/14,000 acres of red grapes planted in the Entre-deux-Mers region that meet the density requirements. Red grapes grown in the remaining vineyards may continue to be made into wine that is bottled under the Bordeaux AOC or Bordeaux Supérieur AOC.

Note: as of the date of this post, the Entre-deux-Mers Haut Benauge sub-appellation is still approved for white wines only.

Welcome to the world, Entre-deux-Mers Rouge!

References/for more information:

• Entre-deux-Mers Cahier des Charges August 2023

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Base map via the TTB AVA Explorer (click to enlarge)

On August 28 (2023), the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States announced the approval of the Winters Highlands American Viticultural Area (AVA). The new AVA is located in portions of California’s Solano and Yolo Counties.

The Winters Highlands AVA is inland from the North Coast AVA and not located within any other AVA. The new AVA is situated between the California Coast Range and the Sacramento River Valley and includes the eastern most foothills of the northern Coastal Range with gentle to steep slopes at elevations ranging between I00 feet/30 m and 400 feet/120 m above sea level.

According to the original petition—submitted on behalf of Berryessa Gap Vineyards and originally submitted in November of 2023—the distinguishing features of the Winters Highlands AVA include its soil and climate—as described below.

Soil: The soils in the Winters Highlands AVA—consisting mainly of moderately well-drained clay and loam derived from sedimentary soils—tend to stay warm in the winter and cool in the summer. They are similar in parent material to the soils found in the surrounding areas; however, the texture differs due to variances in erosion and weathering.

Base map via the TTB AVA Explorer (click to enlarge)

Climate: The new AVA is located on the eastern (inland) side of the California Coast Ranges, which provides some shelter from the cooling effect of the Pacific Ocean. However, the Berryessa Gap—a break in the mountains where Putah Creek flows into Lake Berryessa—allows for some cooling effect (particularly in the evenings). As a result, while the new AVA has more degree days and is warmer overall than most of the surrounding areas; it does tend to be cooler at night and therefore benefits from the “warm days/cool nights” conditions beneficial to the cultivation of Mediterranean grape varieties.

The Winters Highlands AVA covers a total of 7,296 acres; of these, approximately 134 acres are currently planted with commercial vineyards (with another 60 acres in the planning stages). Petite Sirah, Tempranillo, Zinfandel, and Malbec are the leading red grape varieties; white varieties include Chardonnay, Albariño, Verdejo, and Sauvignon Blanc. There are currently three wineries—including Berryessa Gap Vineyards and Turkovich Family Wines—located within the new AVA (as well as several in the planning stages).

When the Winters Highlands AVA is brought into force—on September 28, 2023—the total number of AVAs in the United States will be 269; of these, 149 will be in California.

Welcome to the world, Winters Highlands AVA!

References/for more information:

• Establishment of the Winters Highlands AVA-TTB Final Rule
• Petition to Establish the Winters Highlands AVA

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Photo via: https://www.champagne-coessens.com/

The mere mention of the word “Champagne” brings visions of beautiful, bubbly wine…and rightfully it should, as the Champagne District is home to what is arguably the world’s most famous sparkling wine. The aligned appellation—the Champagne AOC—strictly defines the wines of Champagne and is valid only for use on certain French-produced, closely protected, and highly regulated sparkling wines.

However, winemakers within the Champagne Region—located about 100 miles/160 km east of Paris and covering portions of the Aube, Marne, Haute-Marne, and Ardennes departments—may also produce still (non-sparkling) wines under the Coteaux Champenois AOC.

The Coteaux Champenois AOC was originally established in 1974 and allows for white (blanc), rosé, and red (rouge) wines to be produced using the same grapes that are allowed in the sparkling wines of the Champagne AOC. Since 1974, the list of allowed grape varieties has read as follows: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Meunier (Pinot Meunier), Arbane, Petit Meslier, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Gris; however, in practice most of the region’s Chardonnay and Pinot Noir is used in the area’s sparkling wines.

Map of the Coteaux Champenois AOC via the INAO

Well-versed students of wine might recall that just a few months ago (December 2023, to be exact), the list of grape varieties approved for use in the Champagne AOC was expanded by one (very unique) white grape—Voltis. Voltis is a hybrid variety chosen in part due to “interests for the purpose of adaptation” (intérêt à fin d’adaptation) and to respond to the challenges of climate change.

As such, it should come as no surprise that the regulations concerning the grapes allowed in the non-sparkling wines of the Champagne region have also been updated. As of July 18, 2023, the Coteaux Champenois AOC allows for use limited of the Voltis grape variety. Mimicking the recent revisions to the Champagne AOC, Voltis will be limited to 5% of the vineyard area of any estate and no more than 10% of the final blend of any cuvée.

We’ll be watching to see what vineyards and estates begin using Voltis in the wines of the Coteaux Champenois AOC. It should be interesting!

References/for more information:

• Cahier de Charges – Coteaux Champenois AOC updated 2023
• Official Journal of the EU-July 18 2023
• Map of the AOC Coteaux Chapenois via the INAO

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

We’ve seen quite a few revisions to the regulations concerning the wines of Bordeaux recently. Beginning in 2021, the rules of the AOC wines of Bordeaux were modified to approve six accessory grapes—four red (Arinarnoa, Castets,  Marselan, Touriga Nacional) and two white (Albariño and Lilorila) varieties—for limited use in the wines of the Bordeaux AOC and the Bordeaux Supérieur AOCs.

A bit later (in December of 2022), three other appellations—the Médoc, Haut-Médoc,  and Listrac-Médoc AOCs—embraced the changes as well and are now allowed to include small amounts of the four red grapes in their vineyards and wines.

As of this month (July 2023), the Margaux AOC has published a revision to the Cahier des Charges as well. The Margaux AOC has not accepted the entire list of accessory grapes, but rather has approved the use of just one—Castets (noir)—which will be limited to 5% of an estate’s total vineyard acreage and a maximum of 10% of the final blend in any given wine.

Castets is a red grape variety believed to be native to Bordeaux. In decades prior, it was fairly widely planted throughout Southwestern France. These days, it is considered something of a “forgotten” variety—but is acknowledged for its resiliency and its resistance to downy mildew. Castets is considered to be a VIFA/variété à fin d’adaptation (variety of interest for the purpose of adaptation) that could prove responsive to the challenges of climate change and is believed to be able to produce wines consistent with the typicity of red wine from the Margaux appellation. (As described in the cahier des charges, cette variété présente une aptitude à produire des vins en cohérence avec la typicité du vin rouge de l’appellation Margaux.)

Margaux is a Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant wine. According to the updated documents (as published in the Official Journal of the EU), 60% of the total vineyard acreage is planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, with another 30% planted to Merlot. Cabernet Franc and Petite Verdot round out the current plantings. It is yet to be seen where and when Castets will be planted and how it is used. (We will, of course, be watching!)

References/for more information:

• Margaux AOC-Cahier des Charges-2023
• EU Official Journal—Margaux AOC—July 2023
• https://vins-de-margaux.fr/

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org