Mini Updates from the World of Wine and Spirits

Europe Map with Famous Landmarks.Attention, flashcard brigade! The EU has recently approved a few updates to their wine and spirit regulations. While none of these seem to be too earth-shattering, they are certainly worth a look.

Production update in Cognac:  The Cahier des Charges for the Cognac AOC has been updated to allow for the new-make spirit taken off the still after the second distillation run (la deuxième chauffe or bonne chauffe) to have a maximum of 73.7% alcohol by volume. This was raised from the previous maximum of 72.4% due to hausse des températures du fait du changement climatique ce qui entraine une augmentation du taux alcoométrique volumique des vins (“rising temperatures due to climate change, which leads to an increase in the alcoholic strength by volume of the base wine”).

Name change in Emilia-Romagna: The Colli Bolognesi Classico Pignoletto DOCG—created in 2010 for white and sparkling wines made from a minimum of 85% Pignoletto Grapes (also known as Grechetto Gentile)—has dropped the term “Classico” from its title. These styles of wine—from the appellation now known simply as the Colli Bolognesi Pignoletto DOCG—are a mainstay of the region, and were previously produced under the Colli Bolognesi DOC. As befits the name, the Colli Bolognesi Pignoletto DOCG is located somewhat in the center of Emilia-Romagna and surrounds the city of Bologna.

Name change in Veneto: The Bianca di Custoza DOC—located on the southeastern tip of Lake Garda and just south of Bardolino—has officially changed its name to Custoza DOC. (Two names—Bianca di Custoza DOC and Custoza DOC were previously recognized, but a recent legal decree changed the title permanently to Custoza.) The appellation is currently approved for a range of white wines (dry, sweet, and sparkling) based around a blend of white grapes featuring Cortese, Friulano, Garganega, and/or Trebbiano Toscano. The name change could imply a future move to include other styles of wine in the appellation’s production—we will have to keep an eye out for any such developments.

New Spirit GI: Italy has earned GI recognition for Grappa della Valle d’Aosta (aka Grappa de la Vallée d’Aoste), a pomace spirit produced grapes grown (and wine produced) anywhere within the province of Valle d’Aosta. Grappa della Valle d’Aosta may be bottled unaged or it may be oak-aged. This product is quite interesting as it is allowed to contain limited amounts of honey and may be flavored with local botanicals—such as juniper and artemisia—based on local traditios. Grappa della Valle d’Aosta is Italy’s tenth appellation dedicated to grappa. Other regions with specifically defined appellations for grappa include Barolo, Sicily, Lombardy, Friuli, Trentino, Veneto, Alto Adige, and Piedmont.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Cubeb Berry: It’s in your Gin

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I first encountered cubeb berries (pronounced kyoo-beb) at the Genius Gin Distillery in Austin. Our gin tour-and-tasting included a bit of a show-and-tell with various gin botanicals. My little group and I were quite impressed with ourselves as we readily recognized juniper berries, coriander seed, angelica root, cardamom, lime leaf, and lavender. And then there was this little bowl of what can only be described as “pepper with a tiny tail.” No one recognized it as cubeb berry.

As it turns out, our cutesy description made perfect sense, as cubeb berry (or cubeb pepper) is often called “Tailed Pepper” or “Java Pepper.”  Cubeb berries are produced from the unripened fruit of the Piper cubeba plant, a tropical climbing vine grown in Indonesia (primarily Java and Sumatra). The unripe fruit is left to dry, with the resulting product (cubebs) resembling a wrinkled black peppercorn with a cute little tail.

Piper cubeba, from Köhler's Medicinal Plants (1887—public domain)

Piper cubeba, from Köhler’s Medicinal Plants (1887—public domain)

Throughout history, the highly aromatic cubeb berries have been put to many uses, including perfume, medicine, and even cigarettes. Marshall’s Prepared Cubeb Cigarettes—which must have been something akin to clove cigarettes—was a popular American brand (back in the day).

Cubeb berries are also used in the culinary arts, and are described as aromatic, camphorous, slightly bitter, peppery (of course), and reminiscent of clove, nutmeg, and allspice.  They are often used in spice mixtures (primarily in Southeast Asia) and curries, and also pair well with roast meat, sausages, and charcuterie.

These days, the cubeb berry is becoming well-known for its use in gin. When distilled, the resulting flavor is often described as spicy-peppery-piquant (as would be expected). A gentler process (compounding or maceration) is equally likely to reveal monoterpene-based floral notes such as rose or lavender as well as a warm, earthy character.

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As most gin lovers know, in addition to the ubiquitous juniper berry, coriander seed and angelica root are the most widely-used gin botanicals. Cubeb berries might not even make the top ten list; but if you are a fan of Hendrick’s Gin, Bobby’s Schiedam Dry Gin, Poetic License Gin, Blue Bottle Gin, Genius Gin, Valone Premium Pacific Gin, East London Dry Gin, or Bombay Sapphire…it’s in your gin.

References: for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator

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The News from Jerez

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News flash from Spain: After previous approval by the Government of Andalucía (Junta de Andalucía), the Spanish Ministry of Agriculture (Ministerio de Agricultura, Pesca y Alimentación) has published a new-and-revised Pliego de Condiciones for the Jerez-Xérès-Sherry DO. While these changes represent some significant updates to the time-honored production requirements of Sherry, they do not encompass all of the changes that were expected; other updates are still awaiting approval.

The changes to the Jerez-Xérès-Sherry DO include the following:

New grapes allowed: In addition to the traditional three varieties (Palomino, Pedro Ximénez, and Moscatel de Alejandría), the following grape varieties are now approved for use in Sherry: Beba, Perruno, and Vigiriega. These grapes were common to the region prior to phylloxera.

Introducing…Fino Viejo: Fino Viejo is a new category of wine, representing biologically aged wines with an average of seven years of solera aging; these wines must show substantial oxidative character.

Minimum sugar levels have been lowered: The minimum required sugar content has been lowered (from 5 grams per liter) to 4 g/L.

Official sub-zones have been listed: Sub-zones, referred to as Pagos or Unidades Geográficas Menores de la Zona Delimitada (minor geographic units of the delimited zone) have been defined. There are over 100 pagos currently so designated. Click here for a list and a map of the pagos, via the website of the consejo regulador.

Note: As with all such updates, this change will need to wind its way through EU authorization; however, as the government of Spain has granted their approval, the changes are considered to be in force. If the EU fails to approve the amendment, the regulation will be rescinded.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

 

 

Dispatch from Manzanilla

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News flash from the Government of Andalucía (Junta de Andalucía), the Spanish Ministry of Agriculture (Ministerio de Agricultura, Pesca y Alimentación), and the European Commission: some substantial updates have been made to the rules and regulations regarding the Manzanilla Sanlúcar de Barrameda DO.

These changes relate to the widely reported and much-anticipated revisions that are underway for the larger Jerez-Xérès-Sherry DO. However, these updates—concerning Manzanilla—stand on their own. (For the record, the expected updates to the Jerez-Xérès-Sherry DO are still awaiting publication on the website of the Ministerio de Agricultura, Pesca y Alimentación and approval of the EU/European Commission.)

The substantive changes to the Manzanilla Sanlúcar de Barrameda DO include the following:

  • The name “Manzanilla/Manzanilla DO” is added as a protected term—equivalent to the still-applicable “Manzanilla Sanlúcar de Barrameda DO”.
  • The minimum required sugar content has been lowered (from 5 grams per liter) to 4 g/L.
  • The requirement for Manzanilla products to be fortified (vinos generosos) remains; however, the language has been updated to reflect the term fortificación, rather than the archaic term encabezado (as used previously).
  • Map of the Jerez-Xérès-Sherry DO and Manzanilla DO via https://www.sherry.wine

    Map of the Jerez-Xérès-Sherry DO and Manzanilla DO via https://www.sherry.wine

    A minimum 7-year oak aging period has been specified for Manzanilla Pasada (this replaces the much less specific requirement for prolonged maturing).

  • Palomino (aka Palomino Fino or Listán Blanco) is the only grape now allowed for use in Manzanilla DO. (This means that Pedro Ximenez and Moscatel are no longer approved.)
  • The new document confirms the standard that grapes used in the production of Manzanilla DO may be grown anywhere within the confines of the Jerez-Xérès-Sherry DO, but specifies that the product must be aged (in oak barrels for at least two years) within the confines of the municipality of Sanlúcar de Barrameda.

The location of Sanlúcar de Barrameda—on the Atlantic coast and adjacent to the Guadalquivir River—provides an ideal (warm and humid) environment for intense flor yeast activity. As stated on the updated pliego de condiciones for the Manzanilla DO, la proximité de la mer et le niveau élevé d’humidité favorisent une activité intense et prolongée de la levure, qui confère au vin Manzanilla des caractéristiques particulières. (“The proximity to the sea and the high humidity are conducive to intense yeast activity over a long period of time, giving Manzanilla wines their unique characteristics.”)

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

 

Welcome to the World, Terras do Navia IGP!

terrasdonaviaAs published in the February 15 (2023) edition of the Official Journal of the European Union, the EU has announced the approval of a new IGP wine region for Spain: Terras do Navia, located in Galicia. The traditional term for Spain’s IGP regions is Vino de la Tierra (VdlT), and as such, this new appellation may show on wine labels as Vino de la Tierra—Terras do Navia.

The new IGP will cover an area surrounding the Río Navia (Navia River) close to the eastern edge of the province of Lugo. This is a moderately high-elevation area located within the western reaches of the Cantabrian Mountains (Cordillera Cantábrica). The surrounding mountains reach elevations up to 1,000 meters/f3,280 feet above sea level, while the majority of the vineyards are situated at 200 to 500 meters/656 to 1,640 feet asl. Most of the vines are planted on south and south-west facing slopes, which provide some protection from the maritime influences coming in from the coast (45 km/29 miles away). The climate is described as mostly Mediterranean but includes transitional microclimates exhibiting Maritime and Continental influences as well. The finest vineyards are those with south/southwest aspect and abundant sunshine (due to elevation).

The Terras do Navia IGP is approved for white wines (blanco) and red wines (tinto). The regulations governing these wines include the following:

  • Blanco/White Wines:
    • Approved varieties: Albariño, Caíño Blanco, Godello, Loureira, Torrontés, and Treixadura
    • Minimum alcohol by volume: 11.5%
    • Flavor profile, as per the pliego de condiciones: fresh and smooth, highly aromatic (fruity and floral), well-balanced with crisp acidity
  • Tinto/Red Wines:
    • Approved varieties: Brancellao, Bruñal, Caíño Tinto, Loureiro Tinto, Mencía, and/or Merenzao (Trousseau)
    • Minimum alcohol by volume: 10%
    • Flavor profile, as per the pliego de condiciones: fresh and smooth, aromas of ripe red fruit (strawberry, blackberry, cherry, and cranberry), moderate alcohol, moderate tannin; oak aging is advisable but not required
Map of the Terras do Navia map (within Galicia)

Map of the Terras do Navia map (within Galicia)

The Terras do Navia IGP is scheduled to enter into force by March 8, 2023. According to the latest list of geographical indications from the Spanish Ministry of Agriculture (updated in September of 2022), Terras do Navia will be the 43rd VdlT/IGP wine region in Spain. Terras do Navia represents the fifth VdlT area in Galicia—joining Barbanza e Iria, Betanzos, Ribeiras do Morrazo, and Valle del Miño-Ourense. As well-versed wine students already know, Galicia is also home to five Denominaciones de Origen (DOs) for wine: Monterrei, Ribeira Sacra, Ribeiro, Rías Baixas, and Valdeorras.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

 

Welcome to the World, Altos de Pinto Bandeira DO!

Photo of the Altos de Pinto Bandeira regiion via Asprovinho

Photo of the Altos de Pinto Bandeira regiion via Asprovinho

As of November 2022, Brazil has granted Denominação de Origem (DO) status to the Altos de Pinto Bandeira wine region. Located in the hills of Brazil’s Rio Grande do Sul state, the appellation is approved for sparkling wine only.  Along with the previously established Vale do Vinhedos, Altos de Pinto Bandeira represents Brazil’s second wine region to earn the Denominação de Origem  designation.

The Altos de Pinto Bandeira DO is centered on the municipalities of Pinto Bandeira, Farroupilha, and Bento Gonçalves. It is situated on the 29th parallel, somewhat in the north/central area of Rio Grande do Sul (about 115 miles/185 km inland of the Brazil’s Atlantic Coast, and 250 miles/415 km north of the border with Uruguay). Vineyards are located among the rolling hills and small mountains south of the Rio das Antas (River Antas). The elevation—averaging 632 meters/2,075 feet asl—allows for a good deal of sunshine while keeping the climate somewhat cooler than would be expected given the latitude.

AltosdePintoBandeiraThe sparkling wines of the Altos de Pinto Bandeira DO must be produced in the traditional method (requiring a second fermentation in the bottle followed by sur lie aging). Only three grape varieties— Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Welschriesling (also known as Riesling Italico or Graševina)—are permitted. According to the regulations—as published in the country’s Revista da Propriedade Industrial (Journal of Industrial Property)—the wine is expected to show balanced acidity and a velvety texture in addition to a complex range of aromas and flavors to include notes of citrus, yeast, honey, and roasted almonds.

Sparkling wine has been produced in the state of Rio Grande do Sul since the early 1900s. The area has recently seen international recognition and investment, including the Moët & Chandon Brasil estate, established in 1973. A range of wine (sparkling and otherwise) is produced in the area; however, currently there are only four wineries are permitted to use the Altos de Pinto Bandeira DO label for traditional method sparkling wines: Família Geisse, Vinícola Aurora, Vinícola Don Giovanni, and Vinícola Valmarino.

Rio Grande do Sul red highlighted in map of BrazilWelcome to the world, Altos de Pinto Bandeira DO!

In addition to the two DOs, Brazil currently has several wine regions designated as Indicação Geográfica (IG); this designation is (theoretically) a step below the Denominação de Origem category in terms of status, regional specificity, and regulation. These include Monte Belo IG, Farroupilha IG, and Altos Montes IG (all located within the state of Río Grande do Sul).

Note: Altos de Pinto Bandeira was previously registered as an Indicação Geográfica (IG); this announcement reflects the region’s ascension to the higher-level DO status.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Singani (now recognized by the TTB)!

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As of January 12, 2023, the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) of the United States has recognized Singani as a specifically defined type of brandy and a distinctive product of Bolivia. Singani has been legally defined in the Plurinational State of Bolivia (Bolivia) since 1992, when the government established a set of regulations regarding the spirit’s production as well as a protected denomination of origin (DO) for Singani.

  • Under the TTB rules, Singani is produced and labeled in accordance with the laws of Bolivia. These regulations include the following:
    • Distilled from grape wine (or pomace) made of vitis vinifera grapes
    • Grapes must be grown within the defined growing region—described as those areas within the departments of Chuquisaca, Tarija, Potosi, and La Paz at a minimum altitude of 1,600 meters/5,250 feet above sea level.
    • The product must also be prepared, distilled, and bottled within the defined growing region.
    • Under the Bolivian code, several different categories of Singani are defined, including “High-Altitude Singani” which must be produced exclusively from Muscat of Alexandria grapes, and “Singani Second Selection” which may include grape pomace.
    • Singani is not typically aged in wood, and wood aging is not required.
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Map of Bolvia

The TTB definition of Singani follows the Bolivian standards for the product with the exception of the minimum bottling proof. Bolivian rules allow Singani to be bottled at a minimum of 35% abv; however, for those products so labeled in the United States, the minimum abv for all types of unflavored brandy—including Singani—is 40%.

With this new rule, Singani joins the list of products that are specifically defined and regulated under the TTB general class definition of brandy—those already on the list include Cognac, Armagnac, Pisco, Applejack, Calvados, Kirschwasser, and Slivovitz.

Click here for a relief map of Bolivia  that clearly shows the high-altitude regions in the western reaches of the country.

Cheers to Singani!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Cracking the Crémant Code

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It’s such a great question for a wine exam…it might be worded something like this: “Which of the following regions all produce sparkling wine under a Crémant AOC?” The answer could include the following names: Alsace, Bordeaux, Bourgogne, Jura, Limoux, Die, Savoie, and the Loire.

As wine lovers, we all acknowledge there is (and will always be) only one Champagne, but we also know that many sparkling wines are produced in France—and some of these sparkling wines are entitled to use the term “Crémant” in the context of their AOC pedigree.

These crémants have a lot in common— the most important principle being that they must be produced using the Traditional (bottle-fermented) Method of sparkling wine production. In addition, they must all be aged for a minimum of 12 months post-tirage—including at least 9 months on the lees—and hand-harvesting is mandatory.  Beyond these basics, however, there is quite a bit of diversity in the crafting of crémant. Read on to find a few of these differences…you may find a new favorite wine, and you may glean some information that could prove to be useful on your next wine exam!

Christmas time at the Place Kléber in Strasbourg

Christmas time at the Place Kléber in Strasbourg

Crémant d’Alsace: Among students of wine, the Crémant d’Alsace AOC is remembered for being the only AOC in the region to allow the use of the Chardonnay grape (although Pinot Blanc is more likely to be found in your flute). Bubbly from Alsace is unique in that it allows for the use of an interesting array of grapes: white sparklers may be made using Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Auxerrois, and/or Chardonnay; rosé (more typically) must be 100% Pinot Noir.

Crémant d’Alsace makes up a good proportion of the total output of wines from Alsace and typically accounts for anywhere from 20% to 25% of the total output of the region. These wines are widely distributed and relatively inexpensive. I often pick up a bottle of Lucien Albrecht Crémant d’Alsace Brut N/V at my local “fancy” grocery store ($21.99 the last time I checked); this is a lovely, delicate wine with floral notes and fruity (apple, peach, pear, apricot) flavors made from 50% Pinot Blanc, 25% Pinot Gris, and 25% Riesling.

The Pont de Pierre ("stone bridge") over the Garonne River in Bordeaux

The Pont de Pierre (“stone bridge”) over the Garonne River in Bordeaux

Crémant de Bordeaux: Just a tiny bit of Crémant de Bordeaux is produced, particularly when you compare the 250 acres (110 ha) dedicated to producing Bordeaux bubbles—as compared to 300,000 acres (110,000 ha) for the whole region. However, the bubbly version is allowed to be produced anywhere within the confines of the larger Bordeaux AOC, so larger quantities are possible.

Crémant de Bordeaux is allowed to be produced using the standard grapes of the area—with a required minimum of 70% of the blend dedicated to Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Carmenère, Muscadelle, Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Sauvignon Gris. The other 30% may also contain Colombard, Merlot Blanc, and/or Ugni Blanc. Crémant de Bordeaux may be white (blanc) or rosé.

Some of these wines make it to the US, and I’ve recently enjoyed Jaillance Cuvée “L’Abbaye” Crément de Bordeaux Sparkling Brut—a crisp, clean, fruity blend of 70% Sémillon and 30% Cabernet Franc, purchased for around $17.00

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Crémant de Bourgogne: Crémant de Bourgogne may be produced anywhere within the Bourgogne wine region, and is often noted as a “replacement” wine for Champagne—for a few very good reasons. First, a good deal of the grapes used in Crémant de Bourgogne are grown in the Châtillonnais, in a group of vineyards clustered around the town of Châtillon-sur-Seine, located very close to the Aube department (and the southern boundary of the Champagne region).

In addition, the list of grapes allowed are similar (although not identical, as nothing in the world of wine is ever that simple) to those used in Champagne—including Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Aligoté, Melon de Bourgogne, Sacy (a white grape also known as Tressallier), Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Gamay. The final blend is required to contain a minimum of 30% (combined) Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, and/or Pinot Noir; and Gamay is topped at a maximum allowance of 20%.  Crémant de Bourgogne may be either white or rosé.

These wines are usually easy to find in the larger US Markets; I often pick up Simonnet-Febvre Brut N/V Crémant de Bourgogne at my local “big box” wine and spirits store. This sparkler, produced from a traditional-sounding blend of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir, is aged for 24 months on the lees. The result is an elegant wine with aromas and flavors of citrus, apple blossoms, green apples and brioche.

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Crémant de Die: Crémant de Die AOC is one of a group of AOCs—also including Châtillon-en-Diois, Coteaux de Die, and the slightly-sweet-and-slightly-bubbly Clairette de Die—located in the Drôme Département to the east of the Rhône River (and, latitudinally speaking, somewhat in-between the Northern and Southern Rhône).

Crémant de Die is only produced in a white (blanc) version, and must have no more than 1.5% residual sugar. Crémant de Die is typically based on the Clairette grape, with allowed inclusions of Aligoté as well as a maximum of 10% Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains.

Crémant du Jura: The Jura—known to most wine lovers as that obscure region between Burgundy and Switzerland—is recognized in particular for its biologically-aged Vin Jaune and its fortified MacVin du Jura. However, Traditional Method sparkling wines—both white and rosé—have been produced under the Crémant du Jura AOC since 1995. Still wines produced in the same area are labeled under the Côtes du Jura AOC.

The grapes allowed in Crémant du Jura include Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Poulsard (a dark-skinned red grape), Trousseau (a red grape also known as Bastardo), Chardonnay, and Savagnin.

The Château de Chenonceau in the Loire Valley

The Château de Chenonceau in the Loire Valley

Crémant de Loire: The Crémant de Loire AOC is considered to be a regional appellation of the Loire Valley, and while it is (along with Rosé de Loire) about as close as the area gets to a regional appellation, the bubbly wine is only allowed to be produced in the center part of the long and winding Loire Valley (equating to those areas covered by Anjou, Saumur, and Touraine).

Crémant de Loire may be produced in white and rosé versions. The list of approved grapes reads like the greatest hits of the Central Loire, and includes Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Orbois, Grolleau, Grolleau Gris, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Cabernet Franc. Of these varieties, Cabernet Franc and/or Cabernet Sauvignon are restricted to a maximum of 20% of the final blend.

Crémant de Limoux: Sparkling wines produced in the Languedoc have been bottled under the Crémant de Limoux AOC since 1990. These wines are probably going to remain less popular and less well-known than their cousins bottled under the terms Blanquette de Limoux or Vin Mousseux Blanc Méthode Ancestrale (part of the Limoux AOC). Crémant de Limoux wines have their own style, and are typically produced drier, aged longer, and always produced using the Traditional Method—as opposed to their more famous cousins.  Crémant de Limoux, which may be white or rosé, is produced using 50% to 90% Chardonnay, 10% to 40% Chenin Blanc, and allows for limited use of Mauzac and Pinot Noir.

Crémant de Savoie: Crémant de Savoie is the new kid on the block, having been approved as an appellation (separate from the overarching Savoie AOC) in 2021. Savoie is known for featuring unique grape varieties, and their bubbly is no exception: the assemblage must contain a minimum of 40% Jacquère, and an additional 20% must be Jacquère or Altesse only.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles, CSE, CWE…SWE’s Director of Education and Certification

The Médoc Marches On

Now—as of December 2022—it seems like the grape modifications are marching onward, as three appellations located on Bordeaux’s Left Bank—Médoc AOC, Haut-Médoc AOC and Listrac-Médoc AOC—have embraced the changes as well.

These three appellations are all approved for red wines only (although there are rumors that the Médoc AOC may soon adopt the production of white wines). As such, the classic list of red Bordeaux grapes in these appellations—Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Merlot, Petite Verdot, and  Carmenère—has been supplanted with Arinarnoa, Castets, Marselan, and Touriga Nacional.

As is true with the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur AOCs, the new grapes are allowed to comprise a maximum of 5% of the vineyard area of any estate and no more than 10% of the final blend of any wine. Besides these limitations (and the still-concise list of approved grapes), the wines of all three appellations—Médoc AOC, Haut-Médoc AOC and Listrac-Médoc AOC—have no other rules concerning the number (or amounts) of grapes in the blend.

Stay tuned! More changes are in the works.

Note: As with all such updates, this change will need to wind its way through EU authorization; however, as the government of France has granted their approval, the changes are considered to be in force. If the EU fails to approve the amendment, the regulation will be rescinded.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

A Glass of Voltis (in your Champagne) might be in your Future!

VoltisThe rumors have been circulating for more than a year, and as of December 10 (2022) it’s official: a glass of Voltis (or at least a bit of Voltis in your Champagne) might be in your future.

Back in August of 2021, the Growers’ Association in Champagne (Syndicat Général des Vignerons de la Champagne, or SGV) voted to allow limited plantings of the Voltis grape variety—a fungus-resistant, interspecific hybrid grape variety—for use in the wines of the Champagne AOC. As of November of 2022, the proposal was approved by France’s Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité (INAO), and the newly revised Cahier des Charges was published in the Journal Officiel de la République Française (Official Journal of the French Republic) on December 10, 2022.

Voltis contains DNA from Vitis vinifera, Vitis berlandieri, Vitis rupestris, and Vitis muscadinia. It was created via a collaboration between the INAO (Montpellier, France) and the Julius Kühn Institute (Siebeldingen, Germany). Classified as a fungus resistant PIWI variety (Pi = Pilz [fungus]; wi = widerstandsfähig [resistant]), Voltis is believed to be entirely resistant to powdery mildew and highly resistant to downy mildew.

Voltis is the first interspecific fungus resistant grape to be allowed for use in a French appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC) product, and just the second hybrid grape so allowed—after Baco Blanc (Baco 22A), which is allowed for use in the brandies of the Armagnac AOC. The Voltis grape is part of a group of experimental grapes being reviewed throughout France as d’intérêt à fin d’adaptation (“of interest for the purpose of adaptation”) that are intended to allow for the expansion of organic viticulture (based on reduced need for chemical herbicides and fungicides) and to respond to the challenges of climate change.

Voltis produces medium-sized and moderately compact bunches. The berries are medium-sized, thick-skinned, and somewhat neutral in flavor.

For the time being, Voltis will be allowed in the wines of the Champagne AOC on a ten-year trial basis. Voltis may comprise no more than 5% of the vineyard area of any estate. This update follows on the heels of a similar change recently seen in Bordeaux. 

Cheers to Voltis!

Note: As with all such updates, this change will need to wind its way through EU authorization; however, as the government of France has granted their approval, the changes are considered to be in force. If the EU fails to approve the amendment, the regulation will be rescinded.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org