Wine, Wit, and Wisdom

On February 28 (2022), the EU granted its approval to a new Spanish wine appellation—the Vino de Pago Dehesa Peñalba—as a protected designation of origin/PDO for red wine.

The new appellation is located along the south bank of the Duero River—just to the west of the Ribera del Duero DO—in the central portion of the comunidad autónoma of Castilla y León. The news was announced to the world via its approval and publication in the Official Journal of the European Union.

The Vino de Pago Dehesa Peñalba is approved for red wines based on Tempranillo, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and/or Merlot. Both mono-varietal wines and multi-varietal (blended) wines are produced. The appellation carries some very specific production requirements for its wines; some of these are discussed below:

• Vino Tinto Joven (Young Red Wines):
  • Grapes are hand-harvested and chilled upon arrival at the winery
  • Pre-fermentation cold soak (5-10 °C) is conducted for 5 to 8 days
  • Primary fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks
  • Post-fermentation, the wine is aged on the lees for at least 15 days
  • Micro-oxygenation is carried out at a dosage rate of 15 ml per liter per month for 3 days and 6 ml per liter per month for 8 days.
• Vino Tinto con Envejecimiento (Aged Red Wines):
  • All of the procedures listed above apply, and the wines are aged in 225-liter oak barrels or 5,000-liter wooden vats for at least 12 months (but typically 24 months or longer).

The area inside the demarcated Vino de Pago Deheasa Peñalba zone is an uninterrupted stretch of land situated just south of the Duero River. The warm, sandy, and well-drained soils are punctuated by gravel and pebbles. The area is surrounded by pine forests and well-positioned to enjoy a long, frost-free growing season that in turn helps to create well-ripened grapes with deeply colored skin and a high phenolic content. Well-known wineries in the region include Bodegas Vizar and Abadía Retuerta.

The new vino de pago is named for Peñalba de Duero—a long-abandoned town located along the banks of the Duero River. Viticulture in the area has a documented history dating back to 1751; however, it is believed that vines have been cultivated in the area since the fifteenth century. Throughout recorded history, the area has been variously referred to as Dehesa, La Dehesa, Dehesa de Peñalba, and Peñalba La Verde in addition to Peñalba de Duero. However, all of these names refer to the same place, which has been known as Dehesa Peñalba for at least the last 30 years.

References/for more information:

• Journal of the EU Feb 28 2022-Dehesa Penalba PDO
• Product Spec-Dehesa Penalba via the EC
• Proposal re Dehesa Penalba via Castilla y Leon

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Sparkling wine made in Bordeaux—as produced under the Crémant de Bordeaux AOC—has always been something of an enigma. After all, Bordeaux is known as the land of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

However, traditional method sparkling wine is produced in Bordeaux—using the same slate of grapes as are allowed in the more recognizable dry red and sweet white wines of the region. While the output is small—as little as 2.7% of the region’s total output, for a typical annual output of just over six million bottles—sparkling wines have been made in the area for a little over one hundred years. The specific appellation for bubbly—Crémant de Bordeaux AOC—was originally approved (for white and rosé sparkling wine) in 1990.

Map via the INAO

The white wines—Crémant de Bordeaux Blanc—may be produced using a minimum of 70% (combined) Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Carmenère, Muscadelle, Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Sauvignon Gris; (optionally) accompanied by up to 30% of the accessory varieties (Colombard, Merlot Blanc, and Ugni Blanc). However, a typical bottle of Crémant de Bordeaux Blanc will be based on Sémillon (which accounts for over 60% of the vineyards dedicated to Bordeaux bubbly) and Sauvignon Blanc.

Until recently, Crémant de Bordeaux Rosé was allowed to be made using the red grapes of the region—Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot, and Carmenère—only. However, this has recently changed.

The Cahier des Charges for the Crémant de Bordeaux was updated in November of 2021, and with the publication in the Official Journal of the EU on February 24, 2022, the following change was made—rosé may be produced using a minimum of 70% of the named red grapes; the other 30% may comprise certain white grapes of Bordeaux. The allowed white grapes include Muscadelle, Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Sauvignon Gris. Of these, Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Gris are limited to a maximum of 10% of the blend (each).

According to this article published by Meininger’s Wine Business International in July of 2021, the changes are intended to counteract future issues that may arise from climate change, as well as to allow for the creation of a crisp, “fresher” flavor profile in Crémant de Bordeaux Rosé. The changes will be in force as of the 2021 vintage.

References/for more information:

• Cahier des Charges-Crémant de Bordeaux AOC-update Nov 2021
• Extract from the Offical Journal of the EU—February 24 2022
• https://www.planete-bordeaux.fr/en/who-are-we/presentation-en/our-appellations
• https://cremants.com/en/cremant-de-bordeaux/
• https://www.wine-business-international.com/wine/news/variety-expansion

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

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There are changes underfoot in the Etna DOC and for once, they do not involve the rumbling mountain. Rather, a few updates to the Disciplinare di Produzione for the Etna DOC have been announced (and published in the Gazzetta Ufficiale della Repubblica Italiana on February 3, 2022).

These updates do not impact the current regulations for the bianco/white wines of the region (produced using a minimum of 60% Carricante) nor the rosso/red or rosato/rosé (produced from a minimum of 80% Nerello Mascalese).

Rather, these changes add a bit of specificity (and hopefully, prestige) to the sparkling wines of the Etna DOC. Previously, the region was approved for the production of sparkling wines (both white and rosé) grouped under one classification—spumante—based on a minimum of 60% Nerello Mascalese.

Photo via: sostatresanti.com

Under the new regulations, two styles of sparkling wines are allowed to be produced, both requiring a minimum of 80% Nerello Mascalese:

• Etna Spumante Bianco DOC
  • Grape varieties:
    • Minimum 80% Nerello Mascalese
    • Maximum 20% “other grapes suitable for cultivation in Sicily”
  • Color: “giallo paglierino più o meno intense” (straw yellow, somewhat intense)
  • Aroma: “intenso e caratteristico, talvolta con note agrumate accompagnate” (intense, citrus, yeast)
  • Must be vinified as a white wine using red grapes

• Etna Spumante Rosato/Rosè DOC
  • Grape varieties:
    • Minimum 80% Nerello Mascalese
    • Maximum 20% “other grapes suitable for cultivation in Sicily”
  • Color: “rosato più o meno intenso anche con riflessi aranciati” (intense pink/rose with orange inflections)
  • Aroma: “intenso e caratteristico, con note floreali e speziate accompagnate da un delicato sentore di lievito” (floral/spicy/yeast)
  • May be vinified as a rosé wine using red grapes and/or may be produced using a combination of white and red grapes

• The following standards have not changed, and apply to both styles of Etna Spumante DOC:
  • Production method: must be produced via the traditional method of sparkling wine production (second fermentation in the bottle)
  • Lees aging: minimum of 18 months
  • Sweetness level: Brut or Extra Dry
  • Alcohol: minimum 11% abv

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As with all such updates, this change will need to wind its way through EU authorization; however, as the Italian government has granted their approval, the changes will be in force (as scheduled) with the release of the wines of the 2020 vintage. If the EU fails to approve the amendment, the regulation will be rescinded (although this is quite unlikely to happen).

References/for more information:

• Gazzetta Ufficiale Feb 2022-Etna DOC (see page 110)
• Proposed modifications Etna DOC-November 2021
• Click here for a map of Sicily and the Etna DOC, via Federdoc

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Pinot Noir vineyards along the Kawarau River

On February 1 (2022), the New Zealand Office of Intellectual Property registered Bannockburn as an official geographical indication (GI) for wine production. Bannockburn is now a registered sub-region of the Central Otago GI (as well as a GI in its own right).

In New Zealand—as is done in most of the world of wine beyond Europe—geographical indications do not assign restrictions as to grape varieties or wine styles grown and produced, but rather define just the physical boundaries of a region.

Here are some of the defining characteristics of the newly minted Bannockburn GI:

• The Bannockburn GI is located within the larger Cromwell Basin and defined by the Kawarau River and Lake Dunstan to the north and the high mountains of the Southern Alps—specifically the Cairnmuir and Carrick Ranges—to the east, south and west.
• The southern edge of the area is drawn along a contour measured at 400 meters/1,320 feet above sea level. From this line, the area slopes gently down to an elevation of 195 meters/650 feet, with generally north-facing slopes and terraces.
• Soil types include decomposed greywacke, schist, ancient lakebed sediment (alluvium), quartz (gravel), sand, and loess.
• The location—within the Cromwell Basin and surrounded by mountains—means that rainfall is low and the climate is classified as “truly continental.”’
• Bannockburn GI is the warmest part of Central Otago and further from the sea than most other points in New Zealand.

www.iponz.govt.nz

The leading grape varieties of the Bannockburn GI include Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, and Riesling. Minor plantings include Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, and Grūner Veltliner. As of 2019, the area had total of 145 acres/350 hectares planted to commercial vines.

The first vinifera vines in the area were planted by John Olssen and Heather MacPherson in 1991. The term “Bannockburn” was first used on a wine label to indicate place-of-orign for grapes in 2009. At last count, there were six wineries operating in the area (and several others making wine from Bannockburn fruit). Current producers include Terra Sancta Winery, Felton Road Winery, Mount Difficulty, Carrick Winery, and Akura Winery.

Welcome to the world, Bannockburn GI!

Note: the Central Otago GI is considered to contain five other sub-regions. However, we have not (yet) found any evidence of an effort to declare these areas as geographical indications and as such, these other five sub-regions remain unofficial. For the record, they are: Gibbston; Cromwell, Lowburn and Pisa; Bendigo; Wanaka; and Alexandra.

References/for more information:

• https://www.iponz.govt.nz/about-ip/geographical-indications/register/bannockburn/
• Bannockburn GI-Application via the NZIPO
• Central Otago Wine Region | New Zealand Wine (nzwine.com) (includes a good map of Central Otago and sub-regions)

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

With the debut of the Sekt Austria PDO, the Austrian Wine Marketing Board has announced a change in the way that the country’s sparkling wines will be classified and labeled. Prior to the change, these wines were labeled using the term Sekt gU—an initialism referring to the term geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung. This change (announced on February 2, 2022 and effective immediately) is designed to draw attention to the fact that these wines—easily recognizable by the red-and-white striped banderole on the capsule—are produced using 100% Austrian grapes.

Three tiers of quality wine—including Reserve and Grosse Reserve—will be produced under the Sekt Austria PDO. Wine labeled under the Sekt Austria PDO designation may be made using any approved sparkling wine production method (including the tank method/méthode Charmat or transfer method); Reserve and Grosse Reserve wines must undergo a second fermentation and less aging in the bottle (according to the traditional method/méthode traditionelle of sparkling wine production).

Photo of Austria’s Thermenregion by Anna Stöcher ©AWMB

Further details of these tiers are as follows:

• Sekt Austria PDO:
  • Grapes must be harvested from a single (federal) state
  • Any approved sparkling wine production method may be used
  • Minimum 9 months aging on the lees
• Sekt Austria Reserve PDO:
  • Grapes must be harvested from a single (federal) state
  • Grapes must be hand harvested
  • Must be produced using the traditional method
  • Minimum 18 months aging on the lees
• Sekt Austria Grosse Reserve PDO:
  • Grapes must be harvested from a single municipality
  • Grapes must be hand harvested
  • Must be produced using the traditional method
  • Minimum 36 months aging on the lees
  • Wines may be labeled with a single vineyard as the designation of origin

Austrian Sekt PDO may be produced using any of the 40 grapes allowed for use in the production of Qualitätswein in Austria and must contain at least 3.5 atm of pressure. Click here for a list of The-Austria-40-wine-grapes-approved-for-use-in-Austria.

Note: Austria will continue to allow the production of Sekt without a geographical indication; such wines may be labeled with the term Austrian Sekt or Austrian Qualitätsschaumwein—without the notation of PDO.

As with all such updates, this change will need to wind its way through EU authorization; however, as the Austrian government has granted their approval, the changes will be in force (as scheduled) with the release of the wines of the 2021 vintage. If the EU fails to approve the amendment, the regulation will be rescinded (although this is quite unlikely to happen).

References/for more information:

• Austrian Wine Marketing Board/Sekt 
• Sekt Austria PDO Classification Pyramid (pdf)
• Collective Agreement – Updates to Austrian Wine Law Feb 2022

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org