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Map via the TTB AVA Explorer Map

On June 17, 2021, the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States approved two new American Viticultural Areas (AVAs): the White Bluffs AVA and the Burn of Columbia Valley AVA. When these new AVAs come into force—on July 19, 2021—the total number of AVAs in Washington State will be 18.

This article will focus on the Burn of Columbia Valley AVA. Click here for an article focusing on the While Bluffs AVA.

The Burn of Columbia Valley AVA (a sub-region of the Columbia Valley AVA) is located in the southwest corner of the Columbia Valley AVA, along a stretch of benchland on the north bank of the Columbia River. It is situated between the Horse Heaven Hills AVA (to its east) and the Columbia Gorge AVA (to its west). Its location along the Columbia River places it adjacent to the border between Washington State and Oregon—although it lies 100% in Washington State.

The petition to establish The Burn of Columbia Valley AVA (originally slated as “The Burn”) was submitted by Kevin Corliss of Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, Joan Davenport (Professor of Soil Sciences at Washington State University), and John Derrick of Mercer Ranches. According to the petition, the area’s distinguishing features include its topography, climate, and soils—as discussed below.

Topography: The area within the new AVA is situated on a moderately-elevated, gently sloping benchland above the Columbia River. The (generally) southeast-facing slope averages just over 7% grade.

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer Map

Climate: The area is considered (overall) one of the warmer regions of the Columbia Valley. However, due to the persistent winds from the Columbia Gorge, the heat (as measured by “degree days”) accumulates much more slowly than in the surrounding areas. As a result, the growing season is extended—the grapes in this area are often among the last to be harvested in the state. This lengthy growing season allows for deep flavor development and excellent acid retention in the grapes.

Soils: The soils within the new AVA—dominated by Walla Walla silt loam—are, in many aspects, similar to those of the surrounding areas. However, the soils within The Burn contain a higher proportion of organic matter and lower levels of sand/sandy loam—and, as a result, the soils of The Burn have higher water- and nutrient-retention capacity. This means that the region has a lower need for supplemental irrigation, a lower need for the use of supplemental vine nutrients, and a reduced risk of winter vine injury as compared to the surrounding areas.

The triangle-shaped Burn of Columbia Valley AVA covers a total of 16,870 acres. Of these, approximately 1,500 acres/607 ha have been planted to vines. The region contains two commercial vineyards and no bonded wineries (as of 2021). This is a young growing area; while vines have been planted in the area since 2002, the majority of the vines have been planted since 2015. Cabernet Sauvignon is the leading variety, followed by Syrah, Malbec, Chardonnay, and Sangiovese.

About that name: there is no easy consensus on where the name—The Burn—originated, although there is plenty of evidence that it has been used in reference to the area for generations. The Burn might refer to a local legend that tells of early settlers who set fire to the benchland every fall in order to rejuvenate the native grasses and provide for their horses in the springtime. It could also be based on the Gaelic- German- and English-inspired use of the term burn (as in Bannockburn)—or born (as in Padderborn) or bourne (as in Melbourne)—to refer to a stream or a river.

Welcome to the world: The Burn of Columbia Valley AVA!

P.S. The TTB has also announced a new AVA in California—Palos Verdes Peninsula—to be effective on July 19, 2021. Click here for more details. 

References/for more information:

• Federal Register-Establishment of the Burn of Columbia Valley AVA
• Petition to Establish The Burn of Columbia Valley AVA
• Washington State Wine (washingtonwine.org)

 Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Château d’Amboise

Amboise is a tiny French town situated on the banks of Loire River (about 17 miles/27 km east of Tours) and just a short drive (11 miles/18 km) away from the awe-inspiring Château de Chenonceau.

Despite its small stature, Amboise has a lot going for it. For one, it is home to the Château du Clos Lucé, originally built by the Hugues d’Amboise (nobles of the House of Amboise) in 1471. The Château du Clos Lucé has had several famous occupants, including Leonardo da Vinci who resided in the palace for the last few years of his life. Upon his death in 1519, the great artist was laid to rest in the nearby Chapel of St Florentin. When the Chapel of St. Florentin was razed at the end of the 18^th century, Leonardo’s tomb was moved to the grounds of the Château d’Amboise. (At least that is what most people believe; there are some skeptics.)

Grounds of the Château de Chanteloup

Amboise is also home to what might be the only pagoda ever built on the banks of the Loire—the pagoda of the Château de Chanteloup—and the Parc des Mini-Chateaux—a theme park where you can walk among 40 miniature renditions of the famous castles, gardens, and villas of the Loire.

Amboise is also known for its wine; much of which is bottled under the Touraine-Amboise appellation. Amboise is currently one of the five sub-zones/geographic indications that are allowed to append their name to the Touraine AOC designation—as long as the mandated, specific standards are followed. There are rumors afloat that Amboise will (someday soon) apply for a separate AOC, however, this has not yet approached the national level.

There have, nevertheless, been some recent changes to the rules and regulations concerning the wines of the Touraine-Amboise AOC. These include revisions to the allowed grape varieties, viticultural practices, and character of the finished wine. The most substantive of these changes concern the allowed grape varieties, as follows:

• Varietal composition of red wines: Must be 100% Côt. They take Côt seriously in Amboise and consider it a specific (and historical) local variation of Malbec. Though previously allowed, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Gamay are no longer permitted to be used in the red wines of the Touraine-Amboise AOC.
• Varietal composition of rosé wines: May be produced using any proportion of Côt and/or Gamay. Though previously allowed, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc are no longer permitted to be used in the rosé wines of the Touraine-Amboise AOC.

Map of the Touraine AOC (showing the Amboise subzone) via the INAO

Touraine-Amboise AOC white wines are required to be 100% Chenin Blanc (this standard has not changed).

Note: For the serious wine students in our audience—the other four subzones of the Touraine AOC are as follows: Mesland, Azay-le-Rideau, Oisly, and Chenonceaux.

References/for more information:

• Cahier des Charges Touraine AOC updated April 2021
• Journal of the EU-April 24 2021-regarding Touraine Amboise
• https://www.vitisphere.com/news-88996-Amboise-wines-move-away-from-Touraine.htm
• https://www.amboise-valdeloire.co.uk/destination-amboise/chateaux-and-gardens/parc-mini-chateaux/
• https://www.loirevalley-france.co.uk/outings/gardens/romantic-gardens/pagoda-chanteloup
• https://www.inao.gouv.fr/var/inao_site/storage/repository/editeur/files/pdf/Cartes/AOC_Touraine_A_12062009.pdf

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Map via: https://consorziobardolino.it/

Heads up, wine students of the world! In the April 12, 2021 edition of the Gazzetta Ufficiale della Repubblica Italiana (Official Journal of Italy), it was announced that there have been a few changes made in the rules and regulations of the Bardolino DOC. Bardolino—located on the banks of Lake Garde in Italy’s Veneto—is well-known for its lively red and rosé (chiaretto) wines based on the Corvina grape variety.

The main update involves three new subzones of the Bardolino appellation. These new regions—La Rocca, Montebaldo, and Sommacampagna—have been approved for use upon the release of the region’s 2018 vintage. The previously existing Bardolino Classico subzone will remain in place and is unaffected by the changes.

According to the website of the Consorzio di Tutela Chiaretto e del Bardolino, the newly approved subzones represent a historical view of region. These areas have been recognized since the 19^th century, when they were documented by a local scholar known as Giovanni Battista Perez. These subzones were not, however, written into the original specification of the Bardolino DOC (first established in 1968).

Here is some information about each of the new subzones:

Bardolino-La Rocca takes up the entirety of the area adjacent to Lake Garda, and represents the ancient district of Bardolino, which has ties to the Roman Empire and was mentioned in the 12^th century as a free commune. In the 1200s, the area was expanded and fortified under the “protection” of the Scaligeri of Verona; after the fall of the Scaligeri the area become part of the Republic of Venice.

Map indicating the (previously existing) Bardolino Classico subregion

Bardolino-Montebaldo encompasses the area of the eastern foothills of Monte Baldo Mountain Range. The Monte Baldo Range—part of the larger Garda Mountains—is basically a mid-level ridge running parallel to (and east of) to Lake Garda for about 25 miles (40 km).  The area around the Monte Baldo Mountains is often called “the Garden of Europe” due to the incredible plant biodiversity (and copious beautiful wildflowers) of the area.

Bardolino-Sommacampagna accounts for the rolling hills in the southern reaches of the district.  The area takes its name from the commune of Sommacampagna, located in the southeast of the zone.

Note: As with all such updates, this change will need to wind its way through EU approval; however, as the Italian government has granted their approval, we should begin to see the new subzones appear on wine labels with the release of the wines of the 2018 vintage.

References/for more information:

• Bardolino subzones-announcement in Gazzetta Ufficiale
• Map of the new subzones of Bardolino (pdf, via the Consorzio)
• Website of the Consorzio di Tutela Chiaretto d del Bardolino https://consorziobardolino.it/
• https://ilgardaonline.it/en/listings/monte-baldo/
• https://www.bardolinoitaly.com/history.php

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Graphic via https://www.germanwines.de/

Ask any wine student, and they will be eager to tell you: German wines are confusing. When you consider the combination of gothic-style script on labels, overlapping levels of the Prädikat, and a seemingly never-ending list of places-of-origin (only some of which are government-approved and therefore considered official)—most wine educators would agree.

Hang on to your hats, wine lovers, because the categorization and classification of German wines is about to change, and it is yet to be seen whether these changes will make the study of German wines easier, or even more (shall we say) complex.

Before we dive in, take heart: these changes are still in the works. While producers can implement the changes immediately, they are not required to do so until the 2025 vintage—and there is still quite a bit of regulatory work to be done. Nevertheless, here is what has been announced so far:

The hierarchy (and label terminology) for Prädikatswein—based on ripeness levels (must concentration) at harvest—will remain unchanged.

A new system (hierarchy)—based on geography and the philosophy of the smaller the area, the higher the quality—will come into force. This geography-based set of classifications will apply to PDO (protected designation of origin) wines only—both still and sparkling—and may be used for both Qualitätswein and Prädikatswein.

This geography-based hierarchy is not entirely new; current students of wine will recall the four levels of German wine place-of-origin categories—Anbaugebiete (area), Bereiche (region), Grosslagen (village), Einzellagen (vineyard)—currently in use. This new system changes the terminology up a bit, adds a few levels of specificity, AND allows for the regulation of grape varieties and wine styles at the higher levels. (Specific information on what these regulations will be is to-be-determined and is expected to be released over the next few months/years.)

Here is the new categorization of German wine place-of-origin terms, in order from largest (and—theoretically, less specific in qualifications and lowest in quality) to smallest (and—theoretically, with the most specific qualification and highest in quality).

• Anbaugebiet (area): This refers to Germany’s 13 quality wine regions (Anbaugebiete) and has not changed. Grapes may be grown in any part of the area, and the wine will carry the name of the area—such as Mosel, Rheinhessen, or Pflaz—on the label.
• Region: Each Anbaugebiet will be broken down in several specified areas (such as those previously referred to as Bereiche or Grosslagen). These regions will span several political areas such as communes or districts.
• Ortsweine (village): Named for a specific village; must reflect the typical grape varieties and wine style of the village. These wines must be produced from grapes harvested at least the Kabinett-level of ripeness and may not be sold before December 15 of the harvest year.
• Einzellage (vineyard): These wines must be produced in accordance with the grape varieties and wine styles typical of the vineyard. In addition, all wines at this level of the hierarchy (and above) must be made from grapes that are harvested at the ripeness/must concentration threshold as defined for the area’s Kabinett level grapes (or higher). The name of the Einzellage (vineyard) must appear on the wine label alongside the name of the region. These wines may not be sold before March 1 of the year following the harvest.
• Erstes Gewächs: This designation is made for a sub-plot of a vineyard and comes with a long list of qualifications, which may include specific grape varieties, methods of production, sensory characteristics, and limits on yield. This category is reserved for dry wines made from a single grape variety only. The quality level may be thought of as the “second-highest ranking” in the area, such as is reserved for Burgundy’s Premier Cru vineyards.  These wines must be vintage-dated and may not be sold before March 1 of the year following the harvest.
• Grosses Gewächs: This designation may be considered the highest level in the category (similar to the Grand Cru vineyards of Burgundy). The qualifications are also steep—in addition to regulations on grape varieties, production methods, and sensory characteristics—the wine must be dry; and it must be produced from a single vineyard, a single grape variety, and a single vintage year. At this level, white may be sold after September 1st of the year following harvest, and red wines may not be sold until June 1st of the second year after harvest.
  • Smaller plots of land known as Gewannen (singular: Gewann) may also be defined within the Erstes Gewächs or the Grosses Gewächs.

Side note: according to the press release linked below, “Associations that already use the terms Grosses Gewächs and Erstes Gewächs may continue to use them if they meet certain minimum requirements from the wine ordinance, for example with regard to grape varieties, yields, harvest regulations or the taste profile.”

Reference/for more information:

• Press release from Wines of Germany (in English)

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

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It’s Official. At long last—over a year and a half after a general assembly of winemakers from the Syndicat des Bordeaux et Bordeaux Supérieur voted unanimously to allow seven new grapes to be used in the wines of the region—the INAO (France’s Institut national de l’origine et de la qualité) has spoken.

Per publication in the Journal Officiel of the Republic of France (dated March 30, 2021), six new grape varieties have been approved for use—in limited amounts—in the wines of the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur AOCs. The seventh grape—Petite Manseng—originally proposed by the Syndicat was not approved at the national level.

• The six new grapes—which will be making their way into the ground in the next few months—are as follows:
  • Arinarnoa: Named after the Basque words for “light” (arin) and “wine” (arno), Arinarnoa is a Tannat X Cabernet Sauvignon cross created in Montpelier. Arinarnoa is aromatic and known for producing wines that are well-structured, tannic, and richly hued.
  • Castets: A red grape variety believed to be native to Bordeaux, this grape was once widely planted throughout Southwestern France. It is considered something of a “forgotten” variety—but is known to be highly resilient and disease resistant.
  • Marselan: Marselan is a Cabernet Sauvignon X Grenache cross created in 1961 by Paul Truel, who was working in Montpellier France’s Institut National de la Recherché Agronomique (INRA). Marselan is a late-ripening, highly resistant grape known for producing dark red, age-worthy wines with distinctive flavors.
  • Touriga Nacional: Touriga Nacional is widely-planted and well known throughout the Iberian Peninsula—due in part, no doubt, to its use wide-spread use in Port.  It is an exceptionally late-ripening variety and well-suited to warm temperatures. Touriga Nacional can provide good color, excellent structure, and complex aromatics to a red wine blend.
  • Albariño: Albariño is famous for its role in the snappy white wines of Spain’s Rías Baixas DO and (as Alvarinho) in Portugal’s crisp, white versions of Vinho Verde. In the future wines of Bordeaux, it is believed that the grape’s intense aromas will be able to comfortably withstand the potential onslaught of warmer weather.
  • Lilorila: Another highly aromatic white grape, Lilorila is a Baroque X Chardonnay cross. (Baroque itself is a late-ripening, vigorous white grape believed to be native to Southwest France.) Baroque is a principle grape variety of the Tursan AOC, but besides this claim-to-fame, it is planted quite sparingly (total plantings may be as low as 112 hectares/277 acres in all of France).

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Research and experimentation on the new slate of grape varieties was initiated over ten years ago in an effort to lessen the long-term effects of climate change on the wine industry of Bordeaux.

The newly approved grapes have a proven ability to thrive in warmer conditions accompanied by naturally high acidity, late bud-breaking tendency (which can help alleviate problems with spring frost), late ripening, and good resistance to vine diseases. The white varieties are—in particular—intensely aromatic; this can help assuage aroma loss due to warm weather.

There are several limitations to the use of these new grape varieties, which will remain listed as “accessory varieties” on the appellations’ documentation (the Cahier des Charges). The combined acreage of the new white grape varieties may not exceed 5% of an estate’s total land area planted to white grapes. Accordingly, the total acreage of the newly approved red grape varieties may not exceed 5% of an estate’s total land area planted to red grapes. In addition, the new varieties (combined) cannot exceed 10% of the blend in any given wine—and there can be no mention of the new grape varieties anywhere on the wine’s label.

References/for more information:

• Cahier des Charges AOC Bordeaux-updated March 2021
• Cahier des Charges AOC Bordeaux Superieur-updated March 2021
• Publication re: new grapes for the Bordeaux AOC in the Journal Oficiel of France 
• Publication re: new grapes for the Bordeaux Supérieur AOC in the Journal Oficiel of France 
• Vins de Bordeaux June 2019 press release re climate change in Bordeaux
• Robinson, Jancis, Julia Harding, and José Vouillamoz: Wine Grapes. New York, 2012: Harper Collins Publishers
• https://wineindustryadvisor.com/2021/01/26/bordeaux-introduce-six-grape-varieties

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org