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Welcome to the world, Mount Pisgah-Polk County AVA!

  By admin | June 6, 2022 - 10:15 am | ,
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Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

On June 3 (2022) the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States announced the approval of the Mount Pisgah-Polk County American Viticultural Area (AVA), located in Oregon. The newly minted AVA is located entirely within the existing Willamette Valley AVA and represents the 23rd AVA located in Oregon. With the approval of the new AVA, the Willamette Valley AVA now has 11 sub-appellations.

The Mount Pisgah-Polk County AVA covers a total of 5,850 acres surrounding the 835-foot summit of Mount Pisgah, located about 15 miles west of Salem (and just south of the town of Dallas, Oregon).

  • According to the petition to establish the appellation—originally submitted in 2018—the distinguishing features of the Mount Pisgah-Polk County AVA include its topography, climate, and soils, as described below.
    • Topography: The new AVA is located within a chain of small hills in the Willamette Valley area. Elevations range from 260 feet to 835 feet asl (at the peak of Mount Pisgah); the areas surrounding the Mount Pisgah-Polk County AVA are all at lower elevations.
    • Climate: The Mount Pisgah-Polk County AVA is somewhat cooler than the surrounding valley floor. The average annual growing degree days (GDD) for Mount Pisgah total 2,543 GDD; the surrounding areas total 2,661 GDD (in the tow of McMinnville, to the south) and 2,903 GD (in the town of Salem, to the east).
    • Soils: Like much of the surrounding area, the dominant soil of the Mount Pisgah-Polk County AVA is sedimentary in nature (to include sandstone and siltstone). While the remainder of the Willamette Valley AVA has a large percentage of soils derived from the Missoula Floods, in the new AVA only 2.1% of the area is so affected. Rather, due to the higher elevation of the area, the soils of the Mount Pisgah-Polk County AVA contain a high percentage of volcanic rocks that were part of an ancient seabed. These rocks are among the oldest rocks within the Willamette Valley, and the Mount Pisgah area is the only spot in the Willamette Valley that combines sedimentary soils with such ancient parent material.
Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

At the time of the original petition, there were 10 commercial vineyards (planted to a total of 531 acres of vines) and 2 wineries—Amelie Robert Estate and Ilahe Vineyards—located within the area of the Mount Pisgah-Polk Count AVA. Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay are the leading grape varieties.

Note: The official name of the new AVA reads as follows: Mount Pisgah, Polk County, Oregon AVA. The name includes the name of the county as there are at least three locations in Oregon named Mount Pisgah. As other states also have areas named Mount Pisgah, the term Oregon is also part of the official name of the AVA.

Welcome to the world, Mount Pisgah-Polk County AVA!

On another note: June 3 was a busy day for the TTB, which saw the approval of four new AVAs, including Mount Pisgah. The other three include Rocky Reach (WA), Upper Lake Valley (CA), and Paulsell Valley (CA). When all four of these AVAs are brought into force—on July 5, 2022—the total number of AVAs in the United States will be 266.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Welcome to the World, Rocky Reach AVA!

  By admin | June 4, 2022 - 2:38 pm | ,
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Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

On June 3 (2022) the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States announced the approval of the Rocky Reach American Viticultural Area (AVA)., located in portions of Chelan and Douglas Counties in Washington State. The newly minted AVA is located entirely within the existing Columbia Valley AVA and represents the 20th AVA located in Washington State.

The Rocky Reach AVA covers a long, narrow strip of land that straddles a portion of the Columbia River. This stretch of the Columbia River consists of a deep canyon between two sets of rolling hills (the foothills of the Cascade Mountains to the west and Badger Mountain to the east). The new AVA is situated between the Lake Chelan AVA (located a few miles to the north) and the Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley AVA (located a few miles to the southeast).

  • According to the petition to establish the appellation—originally submitted in 2018 by Kevin Pogue PhD, Professor of Geology at Whitman College—the distinguishing features of the Rocky Reach AVA include its topography, soils, and climate, as described below.
    • Topography: The area within the Rocky Reach AVA consists of a deep canyon eroded over time by the rapids of the Columbia River. The prime vineyard areas are located along flat-topped terraces that line either side of the river.
    • Soils: Loess (windblown sand and silt) is the leading soil type of the Rocky Reach AVA and other parts of the Columbia Valley. However, unlike the surrounding areas, the soils in the Rocky Reach AVA are topped with gravel and cobblestones. The bedrock of the region is also unique—in the Rocky Reach and Lake Chelan AVAs, the bedrock is silica-rich sedimentary rock. This type of bedrock soil is unique, as most of the surrounding vineyard areas are composed of basalt bedrock.
    • Climate: The deep canyon of the Rocky Reach AVA sits at an elevation that is considerably lower than the surrounding areas. As such, the area within the AVA is significantly warmer, resulting in a longer growing season than the surrounding areas.
Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

At the time of the proposal, there were 7 commercial vineyards within the area defined by the Rocky Reach AVA with a total of 117 acres planted to vine. Cabernet Sauvignon is the leading grape variety.

The name Rocky Reach has been applied to this section of the Columbia River since the 1800s. In those days, steamboat captains used the term to describe the 8-mile-an-hour rapids that formed certain times of the year. Successful navigation of the rocky reach required staying within the deepest channel of the river to avoid the rocks just beneath the surface of the water.

Note: June 3 was a busy day for the TTB, which saw the approval of four new AVAs, including Rocky Reach. The other three include Upper Lake Valley (Lake County, CA), Mount Pisgah (Polk Country, OR), and Paulsell Valley (Stanislaus County, CA).  When all four of these AVAs are brought into force—on July 5, 2022—the total number of AVAs in the United States will be 266.

Welcome to the world, Rocky Reach AVA!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Welcome to the World, Vino de Pago Abadía Retuerta!

  By admin | June 3, 2022 - 4:14 pm | ,
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Photo via: www.abadia-retuerta.com

Photo via: www.abadia-retuerta.com

On May 31 (2022) the Official Journal of the European Union announced the approval of a new PDO wine region for Spain: Vino de Pago Abadía Retuerta.

The newly approved appellation is located in the municipality of Sardón de Duero (Valladolid), in the autonomous community of Castilla y León. Sardón de Duero is situated just to the west of the Ribera del Duero DO. This section of the Duero River has long been considered to be an ideal area for vineyards as part of the informally recognized Milla de Oro (Golden Mile) of wine estates in the area.

The Abadía Retuerta estate is built on the site of the Abbey of Santa María de Retuerta— founded in 1146 by Sancho Ansúrez near the banks of the Duero River. Some parts of the original structure still stand and are considered to be among the most important works of Romanesque architecture in the area.

The Abadía Retuerta estate currently includes a winery, hotel, the Santuario Wellness Spa, and several restaurants. In addition to Vino de Pago Abadía Retuerta, the estate produces a range of varietal and blended wines under the Vino la Tierra de Castilla y León appellation as well as food products such as pine nuts and honey.

The Vino de Pago Abadía Retuerta is approved for dry red wines (monovarietal or blends) produced from Petit Verdot, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Garnacha Tinta, Malbec, Merlot, Graciano, Syrah, and/or Pinot Noir. All red wines must be matured in oak barrels for at least six months. Dry white wines—monovarietal or blends—may be made with Albillo Mayor, Godello, Verdejo, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, and/or Gewürztraminer.

P.S. On this same day (May 31, 2022), the EU also announced the approval of the Vino de Pago Bolandin, located in Navarra. You can read more about the Vino de Pago Bolandin here. With the approval of these two new appellations, there are currently 24 vino de pago appellations in Spain (per the EU).

Welcome to the World, Vino de Pago Abadía Retuerta!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Welcome to the World, Vino de Pago Bolandin!

  By admin | June 2, 2022 - 10:13 am | ,
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Photo via: pagodecirsus.com

Photo via: pagodecirsus.com

On May 31 (2022) the Official Journal of the European Union announced the approval of a new PDO wine region for Spain: Vino de Pago Bolandin.

The newly approved appellation is located in the autonomous community of Navarra, within the municipality of Ablitas. The area is very close to the southern edge of Navarra, to the east of La Rioja and close to the border shared with Aragon. This places it within the Ribera Baja sub-region of the Navarra DO. 

The 130-hecatare/320-acre Bolandin Vineyard is part of Bodega Pago de Cirsus, which operates a winery, restaurant, and hotel on the estate. Bodega Pago de Cirsus produces a wide range of products, to include (in addition to Vino de Pago Bolandin) olive oil, white truffle oil, and table wines bottled under the DO Navarra.

The climate of the estate—which sits between the Ebro River and the Moncayo Mountains at an average elevation of 395 meters/1,295 feet above sea level—may be described as “extreme continental,” meaning it tends to experience very cold winters and hot, dry summers. The estate benefits from the Cierzo—a strong dry wind that flows to the northwest from the Ebro River Valley—as well as a series of nearby reservoirs that provide water for irrigation as needed.

The Vino de Pago Bolandin appellation is approved for dry red wines and dry white wines; the main grape varieties include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Tempranillo, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Sweet white wines—produced using late harvest (sobremadurada) Moscatel Grano Menudo (Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains) grapes and containing a minimum of 45 g/L residual sugar—are also allowed.

Welcome to the world, Vino de Pago Bolandin!

P.S. On this same day (May 31, 2022), the EU also announced the approval of the Vino de Pago Abadía Retuerta, located in Castilla y León. You can read more about the Vino de Pago Abadía Retuerta here. If we include these two newly-approved appellations, there are currently 24 vino de pago appellations in Spain (per the EU).

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

A Walk on the Wild Side: A New Look at Lambrusco by Alan Tardi, CSW

  By admin | May 27, 2022 - 9:48 am | ,
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Today we have a guest post from Alan Tardi, CSW. Alan gives us a deep dive in the real Lambrusco as well as a preview of his upcoming session—A Walk on the Wild Side: A New Look at Lambrusco—to be presented at the 46th Annual Conference of the Society of Wine Educators. The conference is scheduled for August 10-11 in Coachella Valley (Indian Wells, CA).  

If you think Lambrusco is nothing more than a banal, reddish, cloyingly sweet bubbly, it’s time to taste again.                                             

It happened over and over again: The first wines of a given appellation to be exported to America from post-World War II Italy were the most commercial, inexpensive, readily accessible ones possible. Some of them became quite popular, though it was often more about an appealing name or jingle or the color or shape of the bottle than it was about the wine.

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In the 1960s and ‘70s, Americans started to become more familiar with and attracted to wine. At about the same time, a handful or two of visionary Italian wine producers began focusing on attaining a high-quality level of production and capturing the essence of their particular grape varieties and growing areas.

There are numerous examples of this but one of the best is Tuscany, specifically Chianti.

Prior to this time, the majority of consumers looked (often fondly) upon Chianti as a cheap, rustic wine in a straw-covered flask sitting on a checkered tablecloth next to a bowl of spaghetti and meatballs. Then it got a makeover, shed its straw, slimmed down into a Bordeaux-like cylinder and became super, sexy and more expensive. Many other wines underwent a similar transformation (think Barolo, Valpolicella, Friuli whites, Southern reds) and subsequently garnered respect and appreciation in the marketplace.

This has not happened to Lambrusco. But it should and I have no doubt that it will. Here’s why:

  • Unique Terroir:
    • Lambrusco is a terroir-driven wine. It grows in a very limited part of North-Central Italy, specifically a small area in the center of Emilia with a tiny adjacent zone just across the Lombardy border.
    • The area where Lambrusco grows is quite unusual. While most grapevines perform best at higher altitudes up on steep slopes, Lambrusco prefers the flat plains or low hills of the Po River valley.
  • Ancient Origin:
    • Lambrusco is considered to be one of (if not the) oldest native Italian grape varieties, with its origin dating back to sometime around the Middle Bronze Age (c 1700 BC).
    • It is thought to have originated as a wild vine that was domesticated by a mysterious group of people who inhabited the western part of the Po valley around what is now the city of Modena.
  • Family of Grapes:
    • In fact, Lambrusco is not a grape variety but a family of grapevines that are closely related to one another but genetically distinct.
    • Thus, while they do have some basic characteristics in common, each one has its own distinct personality, and each has its own home within the larger perimeter of the defined growing area.
  • Variations on a Theme: In addition to the numerus subvarieties, there are many different production options:
    • Lambrusco may be made from one type of Lambrusco grape or blended with others, depending on appellation regulations.
    • There are a number of specific Lambrusco appellations as well as other generic regional appellations that include a Lambrusco-based wine.
    • Lambrusco runs the full gambit of sugar, from brut nature (no added sugar) to sweet.
    • It can be made frizzante (lightly fizzy) or full bubbly (spumante), using the Traditional Method (in bottle with disgorgement), Ancestral Method (in bottle without disgorgement) or Martinotti Method (tank).
    • Time on lees can range anywhere from days to years. And color ranges from pale pink to deep purple.
  • Food Friendly:
    • Emilia is considered to have one of the finest regional cuisines in Italy. The food is rich and full-flavored, and Lambrusco — whether fizzy or foamy, delicately pale and tart or dark, earthy, and tannic — provides the perfect accompaniment.
    • These same basic characteristics also make it an ideal partner for many other types of food, from pizza to barbeque, burgers, spicy Asian or Indian.
  • User Friendly: Lambrusco is
    • versatile
    • bubbly
    • relatively low in alcohol
    • very affordable
    • fun and enjoyable; sometimes simple and rustic, other times elegant or ethereal
    • undervalued and misunderstood (except by those in the know)
  • Decidedly Distinctive:
    • There is nothing quite like Lambrusco. It has its own unique flavor profile — earthy yet elegant, with a slightly wild streak — regardless of which guise it is wearing.
    • It is red (in various hues) and bubbly (in different levels of intensity) and has tannin. It is, one could say, something of an appealing anomaly.
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Alan’s session—A Walk on the Wild Side: A New Look at Lambrusco—is scheduled for Wednesday, August 10th at 8:45 am as part the 46th Annual Conference of the Society of Wine Educators, to be held August 10-11 in Coachella Valley (Indian Wells, CA). Click here to read about the extraordinary wines—as well as a few other treats that will be tasted as part of Alan’s session.

About the speaker: Alan Tardi first got interested in wine while working as a cook and chef in some of New York City’s finest restaurants and this interest blossomed into a passion when he opened his own restaurant in Manhattan in 2001. While still working long hours in his restaurant, Alan became a frequent panel taster at Wine and Spirits Magazine’s New York office and began writing for the magazine. Over time he went on to write for numerous other publications including The New York Times, Sommelier Journal, Food Arts and Wine Spectator. In 2003 Alan moved to the village of Castiglione Falletto in Piemonte, Italy where he worked extensively in the surrounding vineyards and wineries and managed the town’s Cantina Comunale. His first book “Romancing the Vine: Life, Love and Transformation in the Vineyards of Barolo” won a James Beard Award for Best Wine Book of 2006. His second book “Champagne, Uncorked: The House of Krug and Timeless Allure of the World’s Most Celebrated Drink” (2016) received a Gourmand Best in the World Award. Alan holds a CSW from the Society of Wine Educators, IWS and Champagne Master certificates from the Wine Scholar Guild and is currently pursuing the WSET level 4 Diploma.

 

Welcome to the World, West Sonoma Coast AVA!

  By admin | May 23, 2022 - 12:28 pm | ,
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Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

On May 23 (2022) the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States announced the approval of the West Sonoma Coast American Viticultural Area (AVA). The newly minted AVA is located entirely within the existing Sonoma Coast AVA and is a sub-appellation of the larger North Coast AVA. The West Sonoma Coast AVA—which encompasses the existing Fort Ross-Seaview AVA—represents the 19th AVA located in Sonoma County.

The West Sonoma Coast AVA hugs the coastline of Sonoma County and exhibits an overall cool, maritime climate often described as cool enough to be marginal. The AVA currently contains more than fifty commercial vineyards (totaling just over 1,000 acres) planted within five to seven miles of the Pacific Ocean. The leading grape varieties include Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Syrah.

According to the original petition to establish the AVA—originally submitted to the TTB in December of 2018 by Patrick L. Shabram on behalf of the members of the association of West Sonoma Coast Vintners—the distinguishing features of the West Sonoma Coast AVA include its topography, geology, and climate, as described below.

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Topography: The West Sonoma Coast AVA is rugged territory, much of it defined by the steep mountains and ridgelines of the California Coast Range. The mountains in this area—often referred to as the Sonoma Coast Highlands—can reach as high as 1,000 feet/31 meters asl. Many of the vineyards are planted on the hillsides and mountain slopes, which are typically in excess of 5 degrees.

Geology: Much of the area within the West Sonoma Coast AVA consists of sedimentary bedrock and soils of the Franciscan Complex (which includes greywacke, shale, and sedimentary conglomerates). Rocks of the Franciscan Complex are not easily eroded, which contributes to the rugged ridgelines and steep slopes of the region. The soils have a high level of sand content, providing excellent drainage and low fertility.

Climate: As evidenced by its location, the West Sonoma Coast is a maritime climate highly influenced by coastal breezes, fog, and cool temperatures—much more so even than the surrounding areas including the Russian River Valley, Petaluma Gap, and the interior areas of the Sonoma Coast AVA. The West Sonoma Coast AVA is truly positioned to be a leader in cool climate viticulture!

When the West Sonoma Coast AVA comes into force on June 22 (2022), the total number of AVAs in the United States will be 262. Of these, 144 will be in California.

Welcome to the world, West Sonoma Coast AVA!

References/for more information:

 Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

A Pinot Noir Pivot in the Alsace Grand Cru

  By admin | May 14, 2022 - 9:43 am | ,
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Big news for lovers of all things Alsace! Two (of the 51) Grand Cru AOCs of Alsace have revised their regulations so that they now allow for the production of Alsace Grand Cru Rouge—made with 100% Pinot Noir!

Before these changes—announced via publication in the Journal Officiel de la République Française on May 13, 2022—wines of the Alsace Grands Crus were exclusively white. In addition—with very few exceptions*—only varietal wines produced from one of the noble grapes of Alsace (Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, and Muscat) were allowed to be labeled as Alsace Grand Cru AOC wines.

However, things have evolved and now Alsace Grand Cru Hengst and Alsace Grand Cru Kirchberg de Barr are approved for vins blancs et rouges tranquilles (both white and red wines, still/not sparkling). All other Grand Cru AOCs sont réservées aux vins blancs tranquilles (are reserved for still white wines).

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Alsace Grand Cru Hengst covers 53 hectares/131 acres in an area south of the Haut-Rhin commune of Wintzenheim (near Colmar). Vines have been planted here—at altitudes of 260–350 meters/853–1,150 feet asl, along a steep hillside sloping to the southeast—since the 9th century. The soils—consisting of clay and marl flecked with limestone—help to enable the ripening of the Pinot Noir grapes of the region, known to produce wines with silky tannins and lively flavor.

The region’s Pinot Noir vineyards must have a minimum planting density of 5,500 vines per hectare and red wines must have a minimum of 12.5% alcohol by volume. The Alsace Grand Cru Hengst AOC was first approved in 1983 for white wines; red wines will be allowed as of the release of the 2021 vintage.

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Alsace Grand Cru Kirchberg de Barr covers 40 hectares/99 acres located on a steep hill (with an incline of almost 30°) overlooking the Bas-Rhin commune of Barr. The vineyards enjoy an ideal south/southeast aspect and an average elevation of 220–350 meters/722–1,150 feet asl. The soil consists of thick deposits of clay, limestone, and marl interspersed with gravel (that helps to retain warmth). The area has a unique sun capture and a slightly warmer temperature than surrounding areas (as the cold air flows downhill). All of this combines to create an ideal micro-climate for Pinot Noir.

The region’s Pinot Noir vineyards must have a minimum planting density of 5,000 vines per hectare and red wines must have a minimum of 12% alcohol by volume. The Alsace Grand Cru Kirchberg de Barr AOC was first approved in 1983 for white wines; red wines will be allowed as of the release of the 2021 vintage.

All wines produced under the category of Alsace Grand Cru/Rouge must adhere to the following new standards:

  • They must undergo malolactic fermentation (maximum allowed malic acid content is 0.4 grams per liter)
  • They must be dry (maximum allowed level of fermentable sugars is 2 grams per liter)
  • They must be aged until (at least) October 1 of the year following the harvest
  • As is true of all Alsace Grand Cru AOC wines, they must vintage-dated and packaged in the traditional Flûte d’Alsace bottle

Welcome to the world, Alsace Grand Cru Rouge!

As with all such updates, this change will need to wind its way through EU authorization; however, as the government of France has granted their approval, the changes will be in force (as scheduled) with the release of the wines of the 2021 vintage. If the EU fails to approve the amendment, the regulation will be rescinded (although this is quite unlikely to happen).

*Previous exceptions to the “only varietal wines made using the noble varieties” rule include Zotzenberg (approved for the use of Sylvaner) and Kaefferkopf (approved for white blends).

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Welcome to the World, Victoria (Entre Ríos) GI!

  By admin | May 4, 2022 - 10:29 am |
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Map of Argentina with Entre Ríos highlighted, via WikiMedia Commons

Map of Argentina with Entre Ríos highlighted, via WikiMedia Commons

Argentina has added another geographical indication (GI) for quality wine production to its growing list: the Victoria GI. Victoria (also the name of a political region/department) is located in the Argentine province of Entre Ríos.

Entre Ríos—the name translates to between rivers—is located along the eastern border of the large country of Argentina, just to the west (inland of) Uruguay and north of the province of Buenos Aires. As befits the name of the province, the borders of Entre Ríos are defined by several rivers—primarily the Paraná River to the west, and the Uruguay River to the east—both of which eventually end up as part of the area’s famous Río de la Plata estuary.

The western portion of the Entre Ríos region is largely agricultural, and is a significant producer of rice, soybeans, wheat, citrus fruit, and livestock (poultry and cattle). The climate in the southwestern corner of Entre Ríos—where Victoria is located—is humid and temperate with average temperatures of 10 °C/50 °F (winter) to 26 °C/79 °F (in the summer).

Map of Entre Ríos with the Victoria GI highlighted via the República Argentina

Map of Entre Ríos with the Victoria GI highlighted via the República Argentina

The population includes large numbers of immigrants from Italy, Spain, Germany, Switzerland, France, Russia, and Poland. As can be expected, many of these families brought the tradition of viticulture and wine making along with them. The area was at one time home to 5,000 hectares of vineyards and more than 60 wineries, but many of these were neglected following the political upheaval of the 1930s. Many of the region’s remaining vineyards were literally sought out and uprooted after the passing—in 1934—of a National Wine Law (Ley Nacional de Vinos/No. 52.137). This law prohibited wine production in Argentina outside of the designated area of the Cuyo Region (centered around Mendoza) and was intended to encourage settlement in the western areas of the country.

The regional prohibition in Entre Ríos was officially rescinded in 1993 and commercial viticulture has returned to the area. One significant local winery—BordeRío Bodega & Viñedos—prides itself on “revaluing a forgotten wine tradition” and has 18 hectares/45 acres planted to vinifera grapes (in addition to 7,000 olive trees and a state-of-the-art wine production facility). Leading grapes include Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Chardonnay, and Torrontés.  The winery produces varietal wines (both red and white), blended rosé, and several versions of sparkling wine.

View of the Paraná River

View of the Paraná River

Research into the wine culture of Entre Ríos revealed a significant number of wine bars in addition to the region’s commercial vineyards and wineries—including Finca La Josefina y Vinos Annelise, Finca Los Bayos Chacra de Viñas, and Viñas De Victoria in addition to BordeRío Bodega & Viñedos. It certainly seems to be a re-discovered/up-and-coming wine region of Argentina!

Welcome to the world, Victoria/Entre Ríos GI!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

France: A New View Regarding Cru

  By admin | April 12, 2022 - 2:17 pm | ,
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On March 30 (2022), the Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité (INAO) of France published a newly approved use of the word Cru, as it applies to wine regions and wine labels. This move makes the term Cru part of the official hierarchy of wine designations.

Put simply, the term cru may now be used in conjunction with a legally-approved sub-appellation—a Dénomination Géographique Complémentaire (Complementary Geographical Denomination/DGC)—as part of the hierarchy of a wine with an Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) designation.

Only a small percentage of France’s AOCs have previously designated DCGs; some well-known examples include the Bourgogne AOC, Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine AOC, and Côtes du Rhône-Villages AOC. Under the new guidelines, the name of a wine produced from grapes grown in—for example—the La Chapelle Notre-Dame sub-appellation of the Bourgogne AOC may appear on a wine label as follows: Bourgogne–La Chapelle Notre-Dame Cru AOC.

  • To use the term cru on a wine label, it must meet the following criteria:
    • The DCG must be legally designated and based on consistency of terroir (a lieu-dit)
    • The DCG must be small in total geographic area (defined as a single locality or no more than ten communes)
    • The wine is subject to a tasting panel and must be deemed to be of exceptional character
    • Approval of the INAO

As any good wine student has no doubt already noted, this may—at least initially—lend some confusion on the use of the term cru, as it is already seen in the many Premiers Crus, Grand Crus, and even the Troisièmes, Quatrièmes, and Cinquièmes Crus of the myriad wines of France.

Here’s to the new crus?

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

The Dance of the (Hungarian) Pálinka

  By admin | April 8, 2022 - 12:40 pm | ,
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Hungary—a landlocked country in Central Europe tucked between Austria, Slovakia, Romania, Ukraine, Slovenia, Croatia, Serbia, and Bosnia—is serious about fruit spirits. So much so that it currently has 13 individual products—various versions of Pálinka—protected as geographical indications (GI) specific to Hungary. With very few exceptions (explained below), Hungary is the only country (under EU laws) that may use the term Pálinka to refer to these products.

The Hungarian lock on the use of the term Pálinka—relatively new by modern standards—was ratified by EU Law LXXIII (based on the EU definition of fruit spirits and often referred to as “pálinka law), passed in 2008.

Prior to this legislation—as far back as the seventeenth century—the term Pálinka was widely used in Central Europe to refer to spirits of many kinds. This included fruit spirits—plum was the most widely used—and grape-based brandy as well as spirits derived from rye, wheat, corn, sugar beets, or buckwheat (among others).  The term Pálinka was, for many generations, used somewhat interchangeably with schnapps—a word which still defies strict definition.

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These days—per the well-detailed regulations of the Pálinka GI—the term may be used for any fruit-based spirit produced in Hungary. The product specification is quite detailed as to the processing and fermentation of the fruit but does allow for either pot still or column still distillation as well as both unaged and aged expressions. The list of approved base ingredients includes apples, pears, quince, cherries, plums, apricots, peaches, strawberries, raspberries, “wild berries,” and grapes.

The only other country that is allowed to use the term Pálinka is Austria—and the rules regarding Austrian Pálinka are much more specific, quite stringent, and based on historical precedent. For starters, it must be based solely on apricots—no other fruit is allowed. Double distillation in a pot still is mandatory for Austrian Pálinka, and only a few specific regions—Niederösterreich, Burgenland, Styria, and Vienna (Wien) are included in the production zone.

The production of distilled spirits in Central Europe is believed to have begun as far back as the Middle Ages. The first written record referring to Hungarian distillates can be traced back to the year 1330. However, at this time, most of the local spirits were made from wheat, rye, or other grains. Spirits produced from fruit became the leading type of distillate in the region beginning in 1459, when—during a famine—King Mathias forbid the distillation of anything that could be used to make bread. By the 1600s, the term Pálinka—based on the Slavic stem word paliti meaning “to burn” or “to distill”—was used to refer to these spirits.

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The first GI for Hungarian Pálinka was awarded in 2003. The latest—Homokháti Őszibarack Pálinka—was approved just last month (March 7, 2022). Homokháti Őszibarack Palinka is described as having a “fine, discreet aroma reminiscent” of ripe peaches, citrus, and a hint of marzipan. It is double-distilled in a pot still using the mash of ripe peaches grown in the Homokhátság—an area located on the flatlands between the Danube and Tisza rivers and known as the Great Sand Ridge.

  • The 13 Pálinka geographical indications that have thus far been awarded to Hungary are as follows:
    • (Hungarian Fruit): Hungarian Pálinka GI—may be produced throughout Hungary from a range of fruit (typically apples, pears, quinces, plums, apricots, grapes, and/or cherries).
    • (Grape Marc): Törkölypálinka GI—Grape marc spirit, may be produced throughout Hungary
    • (Quince): Madarasi Birspálinka GI—Quince spirit from Bács-Kiskun County
    • (Quince): Nagykunsági Birspálinka GI—Quince spirit from the Nagykunság Region (Jász-Nagykun-Szolnok County)
    • (Pear): Vasi Vadkörte Pálinka GI—Pear spirit from Vas and Zala Counties
    • (Apple): Szabolcsi Almapálinka GI—Apple spirit from Szabolcs-Szatmár-Bereg County
    • (Peach): Homokháti Őszibarack Pálinka GI—Peach spirit from the Homokhátság area (Bács-Kiskun and Csongrad Counties)
    • (Sour Cherry): Újfehértói Meggypálinka GI—Sour cherry spirit from Szabolcs-Szatmár-Bereg County
    • (Apricot): Gönci Barackpálinka GI—Apricot spirit from the town of Gönc (Borsod-Abaúj-Zemplén County)
    • (Apricot): Kecskeméti Barackpálinka GI—Apricot spirit from the Kecskemét Region (Bács-Kiskun County)
    • (Plum): Békési Szilvapálinka GI—Plum spirit from the town of Békés (Békés County)
    • (Plum): Szatmári Szilvapálinka GI—Plum spirit from Szabolcs-Szatmár-Bereg County
    • (Plum): Nagykunsági Szilvapálinka GI—Plum spirit from Jász-Nagykun-Szolnok County
  • Similar products/similar terms include:  
    • Austria (Apricot): Austrian Pálinka GI—Apricot (Barack) Pálinka may be produced in the Austrian regions of Niederösterreich (Lower Austria), Burgenland, Styria, and Vienna (Wien). It should be noted that these regions are located on the eastern edge of Austria, adjacent to the border with Hungary and Slovakia.
    • Romania: Romanian Pălincă GI may be produced from any type of fruit grown in Romania.  Despite the similarity in the terms, this product is legally distinct from Pálinka.
    • Czech Republic, Slovakia: In the Czech Republic and Slovakia, various types of spirits—fruit spirits in particular—are known as Pálenka. This term does not, however, have an official definition nor GI protection.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org