Category Archives: News of The Wine World

Graphic via https://www.germanwines.de/

Ask any wine student, and they will be eager to tell you: German wines are confusing. When you consider the combination of gothic-style script on labels, overlapping levels of the Prädikat, and a seemingly never-ending list of places-of-origin (only some of which are government-approved and therefore considered official)—most wine educators would agree.

Hang on to your hats, wine lovers, because the categorization and classification of German wines is about to change, and it is yet to be seen whether these changes will make the study of German wines easier, or even more (shall we say) complex.

Before we dive in, take heart: these changes are still in the works. While producers can implement the changes immediately, they are not required to do so until the 2025 vintage—and there is still quite a bit of regulatory work to be done. Nevertheless, here is what has been announced so far:

The hierarchy (and label terminology) for Prädikatswein—based on ripeness levels (must concentration) at harvest—will remain unchanged.

A new system (hierarchy)—based on geography and the philosophy of the smaller the area, the higher the quality—will come into force. This geography-based set of classifications will apply to PDO (protected designation of origin) wines only—both still and sparkling—and may be used for both Qualitätswein and Prädikatswein.

This geography-based hierarchy is not entirely new; current students of wine will recall the four levels of German wine place-of-origin categories—Anbaugebiete (area), Bereiche (region), Grosslagen (village), Einzellagen (vineyard)—currently in use. This new system changes the terminology up a bit, adds a few levels of specificity, AND allows for the regulation of grape varieties and wine styles at the higher levels. (Specific information on what these regulations will be is to-be-determined and is expected to be released over the next few months/years.)

Here is the new categorization of German wine place-of-origin terms, in order from largest (and—theoretically, less specific in qualifications and lowest in quality) to smallest (and—theoretically, with the most specific qualification and highest in quality).

• Anbaugebiet (area): This refers to Germany’s 13 quality wine regions (Anbaugebiete) and has not changed. Grapes may be grown in any part of the area, and the wine will carry the name of the area—such as Mosel, Rheinhessen, or Pflaz—on the label.
• Region: Each Anbaugebiet will be broken down in several specified areas (such as those previously referred to as Bereiche or Grosslagen). These regions will span several political areas such as communes or districts.
• Ortsweine (village): Named for a specific village; must reflect the typical grape varieties and wine style of the village. These wines must be produced from grapes harvested at least the Kabinett-level of ripeness and may not be sold before December 15 of the harvest year.
• Einzellage (vineyard): These wines must be produced in accordance with the grape varieties and wine styles typical of the vineyard. In addition, all wines at this level of the hierarchy (and above) must be made from grapes that are harvested at the ripeness/must concentration threshold as defined for the area’s Kabinett level grapes (or higher). The name of the Einzellage (vineyard) must appear on the wine label alongside the name of the region. These wines may not be sold before March 1 of the year following the harvest.
• Erstes Gewächs: This designation is made for a sub-plot of a vineyard and comes with a long list of qualifications, which may include specific grape varieties, methods of production, sensory characteristics, and limits on yield. This category is reserved for dry wines made from a single grape variety only. The quality level may be thought of as the “second-highest ranking” in the area, such as is reserved for Burgundy’s Premier Cru vineyards.  These wines must be vintage-dated and may not be sold before March 1 of the year following the harvest.
• Grosses Gewächs: This designation may be considered the highest level in the category (similar to the Grand Cru vineyards of Burgundy). The qualifications are also steep—in addition to regulations on grape varieties, production methods, and sensory characteristics—the wine must be dry; and it must be produced from a single vineyard, a single grape variety, and a single vintage year. At this level, white may be sold after September 1st of the year following harvest, and red wines may not be sold until June 1st of the second year after harvest.
  • Smaller plots of land known as Gewannen (singular: Gewann) may also be defined within the Erstes Gewächs or the Grosses Gewächs.

Side note: according to the press release linked below, “Associations that already use the terms Grosses Gewächs and Erstes Gewächs may continue to use them if they meet certain minimum requirements from the wine ordinance, for example with regard to grape varieties, yields, harvest regulations or the taste profile.”

Reference/for more information:

• Press release from Wines of Germany (in English)

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

.

It’s Official. At long last—over a year and a half after a general assembly of winemakers from the Syndicat des Bordeaux et Bordeaux Supérieur voted unanimously to allow seven new grapes to be used in the wines of the region—the INAO (France’s Institut national de l’origine et de la qualité) has spoken.

Per publication in the Journal Officiel of the Republic of France (dated March 30, 2021), six new grape varieties have been approved for use—in limited amounts—in the wines of the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur AOCs. The seventh grape—Petite Manseng—originally proposed by the Syndicat was not approved at the national level.

• The six new grapes—which will be making their way into the ground in the next few months—are as follows:
  • Arinarnoa: Named after the Basque words for “light” (arin) and “wine” (arno), Arinarnoa is a Tannat X Cabernet Sauvignon cross created in Montpelier. Arinarnoa is aromatic and known for producing wines that are well-structured, tannic, and richly hued.
  • Castets: A red grape variety believed to be native to Bordeaux, this grape was once widely planted throughout Southwestern France. It is considered something of a “forgotten” variety—but is known to be highly resilient and disease resistant.
  • Marselan: Marselan is a Cabernet Sauvignon X Grenache cross created in 1961 by Paul Truel, who was working in Montpellier France’s Institut National de la Recherché Agronomique (INRA). Marselan is a late-ripening, highly resistant grape known for producing dark red, age-worthy wines with distinctive flavors.
  • Touriga Nacional: Touriga Nacional is widely-planted and well known throughout the Iberian Peninsula—due in part, no doubt, to its use wide-spread use in Port.  It is an exceptionally late-ripening variety and well-suited to warm temperatures. Touriga Nacional can provide good color, excellent structure, and complex aromatics to a red wine blend.
  • Albariño: Albariño is famous for its role in the snappy white wines of Spain’s Rías Baixas DO and (as Alvarinho) in Portugal’s crisp, white versions of Vinho Verde. In the future wines of Bordeaux, it is believed that the grape’s intense aromas will be able to comfortably withstand the potential onslaught of warmer weather.
  • Lilorila: Another highly aromatic white grape, Lilorila is a Baroque X Chardonnay cross. (Baroque itself is a late-ripening, vigorous white grape believed to be native to Southwest France.) Baroque is a principle grape variety of the Tursan AOC, but besides this claim-to-fame, it is planted quite sparingly (total plantings may be as low as 112 hectares/277 acres in all of France).

.

Research and experimentation on the new slate of grape varieties was initiated over ten years ago in an effort to lessen the long-term effects of climate change on the wine industry of Bordeaux.

The newly approved grapes have a proven ability to thrive in warmer conditions accompanied by naturally high acidity, late bud-breaking tendency (which can help alleviate problems with spring frost), late ripening, and good resistance to vine diseases. The white varieties are—in particular—intensely aromatic; this can help assuage aroma loss due to warm weather.

There are several limitations to the use of these new grape varieties, which will remain listed as “accessory varieties” on the appellations’ documentation (the Cahier des Charges). The combined acreage of the new white grape varieties may not exceed 5% of an estate’s total land area planted to white grapes. Accordingly, the total acreage of the newly approved red grape varieties may not exceed 5% of an estate’s total land area planted to red grapes. In addition, the new varieties (combined) cannot exceed 10% of the blend in any given wine—and there can be no mention of the new grape varieties anywhere on the wine’s label.

References/for more information:

• Cahier des Charges AOC Bordeaux-updated March 2021
• Cahier des Charges AOC Bordeaux Superieur-updated March 2021
• Publication re: new grapes for the Bordeaux AOC in the Journal Oficiel of France 
• Publication re: new grapes for the Bordeaux Supérieur AOC in the Journal Oficiel of France 
• Vins de Bordeaux June 2019 press release re climate change in Bordeaux
• Robinson, Jancis, Julia Harding, and José Vouillamoz: Wine Grapes. New York, 2012: Harper Collins Publishers
• https://wineindustryadvisor.com/2021/01/26/bordeaux-introduce-six-grape-varieties

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Photo of Ribeiro vineyards via: www.ribeiro.wine/es/

The Ribeiro DO—the oldest appellation in Galicia—was established in 1932. The region sits between the of O Rosal sub-region of Rías Baixas (to the west) and the Ribeira Sacra DO (to the east). The area is located along the eastern banks of the Miño (Minho) River, about 30 km/48 miles inland of the Atlantic Ocean.

Ribeiro, a cool-to-moderate climate region, is part of Green Spain—the area of northwest Spain exposed to the influence of the Atlantic Ocean. The area is surrounded by rolling hills, criss-crossed by rivers, and tucked between the coastal plains and the mountains of the Galician Massif.

The region—heavily planted to white grapes—has been known for the quality of its wines since the 12^th century, when the monks of San Clodio Monastery served their wines to travelers and pilgrims on the nearby Camino. Documentation from the time (dated 1133) shows that the wines of Ribeiro were the most highly prized—and expensive—wines served in the nearby town of Santiago de Compostela.

.

These days, about 90% of the production of the Ribeiro DO is white wines. Treixadura—the leading white grape variety—is often referred to as the “jewel of the Ribeiro.” Other highly regarded white grape varieties include Torrontés, Godello, Albariño, Loureira, Lado and Caíño Blanco; Palomino and Albillo are allowed as well. The white wines of the Ribeiro DO are often enjoyed as young, vibrant, and expressive white wines; aged versions are appreciated for their elegance and subtlety.

Another 9% of the production is red wines—crisp and bright—produced mainly from Caíño Longo, Caíño Bravo, Caíño Tinto, Ferrón, Sousón, Mencía, and Brancellao grape varieties.  (Tempranillo and Alicante Bouschet are allowed as well.)

The Ribeiro DO also allows for the production of a naturally sweet, dried-grape wine known as Ribeiro Tostado (“toasted”). Grapes—which may be either white or red—used in the production of Ribeiro Tostado are dried (after harvest) for a minimum of three months. After fermentation, the wine must be aged for a minimum of six months in oak or cherry vats; this must be followed by at least three months of aging in the bottle. Production of this rich, complex, and luscious wine is very small and labor-intensive.

Advanced students of wine might be interested to know that in 2017, the Consejo Regulador of the Ribeiro DO granted approval for some changes to the rules and regulation of the appellation. This amendment was recently approved by the EU; the updated Pliego de Condiciones was published in the Official Journal of the EU on November 18, 2020.

Photo of Ribeiro Tostado via: www.ribeiro.wine/es/

As a result of the changes, the standards of the Ribeiro DO now allow for the production of sparkling wines. The changes also tightened several of the quality standards for the wines, such as maximum yields, planting density, and minimum ripeness levels. (See the attached documentation for details.)

The newly-defined standards for the sparkling wines of the region—Vinos Espumosos de Calidad Ribeiro—require that the wines be produced using the traditional method, with a minimum of 9 months aging on the lees. Ribeiro Espumoso may be produced as a white (blanco) or rosé (rosado) wine; however, it must be dry—brut (maximum sugar of 12 g/L) and brut nature (maximum sugar of 3 g/L) are the only sweetness levels allowed.

The updates also provide for the use of the term barrica on wines that have spent some time in oak barrels (of 600 liters/maximum capacity) at any point in the production process. While the minimum time in oak is not specified, wines labeled with the term barrica (Ribeiro Barrica Blanco or Ribeiro Barrica Tinto) must demonstrate a “woody aromatic character” (to include aromas of toast, spice, and balsam) balanced by aromas and flavors of fruit, flowers, honey, jam, and herbs.

References/for more information:

• Ribeiro DO Pliego de Condiciones-Nov 2019
• Ribeiro Amendment Proposal EU publication
• https://www.ribeiro.wine/our-wines
• Wine map of Galicia created by Rainer Lesniewski, via 123rf (dot) com

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Historically, the term “Maremma” was used to indicate a large, marshy area stretching along the Italian Coast—encompassing about 100 miles/160 km of southwestern Tuscany and northern Lazio. The name Maremma is said to derive from the Spanish word marisma—meaning “marsh.” (For the geologically challenged among us, a marsh is a treeless, low-lying area that is typically water-logged, prone to flooding, and home to grasses. cattails, and reeds.)

The area has been drained of its swampy residue several times over the course of history—most notably by order of Ferdinando I de’ Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany, in the early 1600s—and again in the 1700s by the order of Leopold II. Modern times have seen the installation of powerful draining machines and the planting of pine forests. As a result, today’s Maremma is equally known for sandy beaches, rolling hills, wildlife preserves, and a wealth of agriculture ranging from olives and Maremma Cattle to viticulture and wine production.

The Monte Argentario Peninsula in Grosseto (Tuscany)

The term Maremma is also used as a geographical indication for wine—as in the Maremma Toscana DOC. This Maremma Toscana DOC designation is applied specifically to the Grosseto Province, located in the southwestern corner of Tuscany. The Maremma was first established as an Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) region in 1995; it was promoted to a Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) in 2011.

The appellation is focused on varietally-labeled wines, including a range of typical Italian varieties (Sangiovese, Trebbiano Toscano, Ansonica) and international varieties including Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, and Syrah.

Blended wines—typically labeled simply as Rosso, Bianco or Rosato—are also produced in the region. One of the more unique styles of wine produced in the Maremma Toscana DOC is a wine labeled simply as “Cabernet” which may include any combination of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and/or Carmenère.

.

Advanced students of wine might be interested in the recent updates to the rules and regulations that define the wines of the Maremma Toscana DOC. In late 2020, the region’s disciplinare was revised to allow the use of two grape varieties on the label, such as Sauvignon Blanc–Viognier or Cabernet Sauvignon–Merlot. It is thought that this will make the wines more appealing to some New World markets. The standards for the use of bi-varietal labeling are as follows: the grape named first on the label must comprise 50% to 85% of the blend; and the second grape listed must comprise 15% to 50%.

• The updated regulations also include the following standards for the use of the term Riserva on the wines of the Maremma Toscana DOC:
  • Red wines: minimum of 2 years of aging—to include at least six months in wood—beginning no earlier than November 1 of the harvest year
  • White wines: minimum of 12 months of aging (beginning no earlier than November 1 of the harvest year)

This list of allowed wines produced in the Maremma Toscana DOC is long; and includes some wine styles typical of the region—such as dry rosso, bianco, and rosato (in varietal expressions and blends), as well as Vin Santo, sweet vendemmia tardiva (late-harvest) wines, and passito-style wines. The appellation is also one of the few in Tuscany to produce spumante (sparkling) wines. The sparkling wines of the region may be bianco or rosato and dry or extra-dry (up to 17 g/L of sugar). In addition, they may be produced via the Metodo Classico (traditional method) or the charmat method (in pressurized tank, referred to as the Metodo Martinotti).

References/for more information:

• Disciplinare di Produzione–Maremma Toscana DOC-updated 2020
• http://worldlandforms.com/landforms/marsh/
• https://brunelleschi.imss.fi.it/itineraries/itinerary/ReclamationTuscany.html
• http://www.travelingintuscany.com/engels/maremma.htm

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Photo via: https://www.1001-pierres.com/boutique/fr/

France has approved a new protected geographical indication for wine: The Pays de Brive PGI. The newly classified area produces dry, still (non-sparkling) wines in red, white, and rosé as well as sweet white wines.

The region’s white wines may be produced using Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris, Sémillon, or Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains. They may be produced as varietal wines or blends.

According to the Cahier des Charges, the white wines of the Pays de Brive PGI should be pale yellow in color with green reflections, with aromas of fruit and flowers. On the palate, they are “fruity, mineral, powerful, and lively.” Semi-sweet (moelleux) and sweet (doux) white wines (produced from the same slate of grape varieties) show aromas of yellow fruit (quince, peach), citrus (lemon, mandarin orange), and honey.

The red and rosé wines of the Pays de Brive PGI may be produced using the following well-known grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec (Cot), Merlot, Gamay, Pinot Noir, and Tannat. Other—more obscure—approved varieties include Jurançon Noir (a natural Folle Blanche X Malbec cross) and Ségalin (a Jurançon Noir X Portugieser cross created by Paul Truel in 1957). Red and rosé wines may be produced as varietal wines or blends.

Map of the Nouvelle Aquitaine Region; the Corrèze Department is on the eastern edge.

According to the Cahier des Charges, the red wines of the area tend to be rich, powerful, and ruby-to-garnet in color. Typical aromas include black current, spice, and candied fruit. Rosés—which may be light in color (and flavor) or darker and richer (dusty rose/pink) in color and flavor—are fruity, floral, and lively.

The Pays de Brive PGI covers the entirety of the Corrèze Department, located in Southwest France (Nouvelle-Aquitaine), somewhat inland (east) of Bordeaux. Long-time readers may recall that a portion of the area was previously covered by the Vins de la Corrèze IGP before it received a “promotion” and was re-invented as the Corrèze AOC (in 2017). The Pays de Brive PGI covers a wider region and has a much longer list of approved grape varieties and wine styles than the stricter (and smaller) Corrèze AOC.

The region takes its name from the area’s largest town, the commune of Brive-la-Gaillarde (population: 50,000). During World War II, Brive-la-Gaillarde was a center of the Resistance; in 1944, it became the first city of Occupied France to liberate itself without outside assistance.

Welcome to the World, Pays de Brive PGI!

References/for more information:

• Cahier des Charges Pays de Brive
• On the INAO website: https://www.inao.gouv.fr/eng/produit/14110

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org