Category Archives: News of The Wine World

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

On May 23 (2022) the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States announced the approval of the West Sonoma Coast American Viticultural Area (AVA). The newly minted AVA is located entirely within the existing Sonoma Coast AVA and is a sub-appellation of the larger North Coast AVA. The West Sonoma Coast AVA—which encompasses the existing Fort Ross-Seaview AVA—represents the 19^th AVA located in Sonoma County.

The West Sonoma Coast AVA hugs the coastline of Sonoma County and exhibits an overall cool, maritime climate often described as cool enough to be marginal. The AVA currently contains more than fifty commercial vineyards (totaling just over 1,000 acres) planted within five to seven miles of the Pacific Ocean. The leading grape varieties include Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Syrah.

According to the original petition to establish the AVA—originally submitted to the TTB in December of 2018 by Patrick L. Shabram on behalf of the members of the association of West Sonoma Coast Vintners—the distinguishing features of the West Sonoma Coast AVA include its topography, geology, and climate, as described below.

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Topography: The West Sonoma Coast AVA is rugged territory, much of it defined by the steep mountains and ridgelines of the California Coast Range. The mountains in this area—often referred to as the Sonoma Coast Highlands—can reach as high as 1,000 feet/31 meters asl. Many of the vineyards are planted on the hillsides and mountain slopes, which are typically in excess of 5 degrees.

Geology: Much of the area within the West Sonoma Coast AVA consists of sedimentary bedrock and soils of the Franciscan Complex (which includes greywacke, shale, and sedimentary conglomerates). Rocks of the Franciscan Complex are not easily eroded, which contributes to the rugged ridgelines and steep slopes of the region. The soils have a high level of sand content, providing excellent drainage and low fertility.

Climate: As evidenced by its location, the West Sonoma Coast is a maritime climate highly influenced by coastal breezes, fog, and cool temperatures—much more so even than the surrounding areas including the Russian River Valley, Petaluma Gap, and the interior areas of the Sonoma Coast AVA. The West Sonoma Coast AVA is truly positioned to be a leader in cool climate viticulture!

When the West Sonoma Coast AVA comes into force on June 22 (2022), the total number of AVAs in the United States will be 262. Of these, 144 will be in California.

Welcome to the world, West Sonoma Coast AVA!

References/for more information:

• Final Rule-May 23 2022-West Sonoma Coast AVA
• Click here for a map of the vineyards of the West Sonoma Coast AVA, via the website of the West Sonoma Coast Vintners

 Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

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Big news for lovers of all things Alsace! Two (of the 51) Grand Cru AOCs of Alsace have revised their regulations so that they now allow for the production of Alsace Grand Cru Rouge—made with 100% Pinot Noir!

Before these changes—announced via publication in the Journal Officiel de la République Française on May 13, 2022—wines of the Alsace Grands Crus were exclusively white. In addition—with very few exceptions*—only varietal wines produced from one of the noble grapes of Alsace (Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, and Muscat) were allowed to be labeled as Alsace Grand Cru AOC wines.

However, things have evolved and now Alsace Grand Cru Hengst and Alsace Grand Cru Kirchberg de Barr are approved for vins blancs et rouges tranquilles (both white and red wines, still/not sparkling). All other Grand Cru AOCs sont réservées aux vins blancs tranquilles (are reserved for still white wines).

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Alsace Grand Cru Hengst covers 53 hectares/131 acres in an area south of the Haut-Rhin commune of Wintzenheim (near Colmar). Vines have been planted here—at altitudes of 260–350 meters/853–1,150 feet asl, along a steep hillside sloping to the southeast—since the 9^th century. The soils—consisting of clay and marl flecked with limestone—help to enable the ripening of the Pinot Noir grapes of the region, known to produce wines with silky tannins and lively flavor.

The region’s Pinot Noir vineyards must have a minimum planting density of 5,500 vines per hectare and red wines must have a minimum of 12.5% alcohol by volume. The Alsace Grand Cru Hengst AOC was first approved in 1983 for white wines; red wines will be allowed as of the release of the 2021 vintage.

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Alsace Grand Cru Kirchberg de Barr covers 40 hectares/99 acres located on a steep hill (with an incline of almost 30°) overlooking the Bas-Rhin commune of Barr. The vineyards enjoy an ideal south/southeast aspect and an average elevation of 220–350 meters/722–1,150 feet asl. The soil consists of thick deposits of clay, limestone, and marl interspersed with gravel (that helps to retain warmth). The area has a unique sun capture and a slightly warmer temperature than surrounding areas (as the cold air flows downhill). All of this combines to create an ideal micro-climate for Pinot Noir.

The region’s Pinot Noir vineyards must have a minimum planting density of 5,000 vines per hectare and red wines must have a minimum of 12% alcohol by volume. The Alsace Grand Cru Kirchberg de Barr AOC was first approved in 1983 for white wines; red wines will be allowed as of the release of the 2021 vintage.

All wines produced under the category of Alsace Grand Cru/Rouge must adhere to the following new standards:

• They must undergo malolactic fermentation (maximum allowed malic acid content is 0.4 grams per liter)
• They must be dry (maximum allowed level of fermentable sugars is 2 grams per liter)
• They must be aged until (at least) October 1 of the year following the harvest
• As is true of all Alsace Grand Cru AOC wines, they must vintage-dated and packaged in the traditional Flûte d’Alsace bottle

Welcome to the world, Alsace Grand Cru Rouge!

As with all such updates, this change will need to wind its way through EU authorization; however, as the government of France has granted their approval, the changes will be in force (as scheduled) with the release of the wines of the 2021 vintage. If the EU fails to approve the amendment, the regulation will be rescinded (although this is quite unlikely to happen).

*Previous exceptions to the “only varietal wines made using the noble varieties” rule include Zotzenberg (approved for the use of Sylvaner) and Kaefferkopf (approved for white blends).

References/for more information:

• Journal Officiel de la Republique Francaise May 13 2022-Alsace Grand Cru AOC
• Cahier des Charges-Proposal re Alsace Grand Cru AOC (includes notations of the updates vis-à-vis the previous document)
• Vins d’Alsace—Kirchberg de Barr
• Vins d’Alsace—Hengst

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

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On March 30 (2022), the Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité (INAO) of France published a newly approved use of the word Cru, as it applies to wine regions and wine labels. This move makes the term Cru part of the official hierarchy of wine designations.

Put simply, the term cru may now be used in conjunction with a legally-approved sub-appellation—a Dénomination Géographique Complémentaire (Complementary Geographical Denomination/DGC)—as part of the hierarchy of a wine with an Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) designation.

Only a small percentage of France’s AOCs have previously designated DCGs; some well-known examples include the Bourgogne AOC, Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine AOC, and Côtes du Rhône-Villages AOC. Under the new guidelines, the name of a wine produced from grapes grown in—for example—the La Chapelle Notre-Dame sub-appellation of the Bourgogne AOC may appear on a wine label as follows: Bourgogne–La Chapelle Notre-Dame Cru AOC.

• To use the term cru on a wine label, it must meet the following criteria:
  • The DCG must be legally designated and based on consistency of terroir (a lieu-dit)
  • The DCG must be small in total geographic area (defined as a single locality or no more than ten communes)
  • The wine is subject to a tasting panel and must be deemed to be of exceptional character
  • Approval of the INAO

As any good wine student has no doubt already noted, this may—at least initially—lend some confusion on the use of the term cru, as it is already seen in the many Premiers Crus, Grand Crus, and even the Troisièmes, Quatrièmes, and Cinquièmes Crus of the myriad wines of France.

Here’s to the new crus?

References/for more information:

• https://www.inao.gouv.fr/A-la-Une/mention-cru

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

On February 28 (2022), the EU granted its approval to a new Spanish wine appellation—the Vino de Pago Dehesa Peñalba—as a protected designation of origin/PDO for red wine.

The new appellation is located along the south bank of the Duero River—just to the west of the Ribera del Duero DO—in the central portion of the comunidad autónoma of Castilla y León. The news was announced to the world via its approval and publication in the Official Journal of the European Union.

The Vino de Pago Dehesa Peñalba is approved for red wines based on Tempranillo, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and/or Merlot. Both mono-varietal wines and multi-varietal (blended) wines are produced. The appellation carries some very specific production requirements for its wines; some of these are discussed below:

• Vino Tinto Joven (Young Red Wines):
  • Grapes are hand-harvested and chilled upon arrival at the winery
  • Pre-fermentation cold soak (5-10 °C) is conducted for 5 to 8 days
  • Primary fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks
  • Post-fermentation, the wine is aged on the lees for at least 15 days
  • Micro-oxygenation is carried out at a dosage rate of 15 ml per liter per month for 3 days and 6 ml per liter per month for 8 days.
• Vino Tinto con Envejecimiento (Aged Red Wines):
  • All of the procedures listed above apply, and the wines are aged in 225-liter oak barrels or 5,000-liter wooden vats for at least 12 months (but typically 24 months or longer).

The area inside the demarcated Vino de Pago Deheasa Peñalba zone is an uninterrupted stretch of land situated just south of the Duero River. The warm, sandy, and well-drained soils are punctuated by gravel and pebbles. The area is surrounded by pine forests and well-positioned to enjoy a long, frost-free growing season that in turn helps to create well-ripened grapes with deeply colored skin and a high phenolic content. Well-known wineries in the region include Bodegas Vizar and Abadía Retuerta.

The new vino de pago is named for Peñalba de Duero—a long-abandoned town located along the banks of the Duero River. Viticulture in the area has a documented history dating back to 1751; however, it is believed that vines have been cultivated in the area since the fifteenth century. Throughout recorded history, the area has been variously referred to as Dehesa, La Dehesa, Dehesa de Peñalba, and Peñalba La Verde in addition to Peñalba de Duero. However, all of these names refer to the same place, which has been known as Dehesa Peñalba for at least the last 30 years.

References/for more information:

• Journal of the EU Feb 28 2022-Dehesa Penalba PDO
• Product Spec-Dehesa Penalba via the EC
• Proposal re Dehesa Penalba via Castilla y Leon

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Sparkling wine made in Bordeaux—as produced under the Crémant de Bordeaux AOC—has always been something of an enigma. After all, Bordeaux is known as the land of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

However, traditional method sparkling wine is produced in Bordeaux—using the same slate of grapes as are allowed in the more recognizable dry red and sweet white wines of the region. While the output is small—as little as 2.7% of the region’s total output, for a typical annual output of just over six million bottles—sparkling wines have been made in the area for a little over one hundred years. The specific appellation for bubbly—Crémant de Bordeaux AOC—was originally approved (for white and rosé sparkling wine) in 1990.

Map via the INAO

The white wines—Crémant de Bordeaux Blanc—may be produced using a minimum of 70% (combined) Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Carmenère, Muscadelle, Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Sauvignon Gris; (optionally) accompanied by up to 30% of the accessory varieties (Colombard, Merlot Blanc, and Ugni Blanc). However, a typical bottle of Crémant de Bordeaux Blanc will be based on Sémillon (which accounts for over 60% of the vineyards dedicated to Bordeaux bubbly) and Sauvignon Blanc.

Until recently, Crémant de Bordeaux Rosé was allowed to be made using the red grapes of the region—Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot, and Carmenère—only. However, this has recently changed.

The Cahier des Charges for the Crémant de Bordeaux was updated in November of 2021, and with the publication in the Official Journal of the EU on February 24, 2022, the following change was made—rosé may be produced using a minimum of 70% of the named red grapes; the other 30% may comprise certain white grapes of Bordeaux. The allowed white grapes include Muscadelle, Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Sauvignon Gris. Of these, Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Gris are limited to a maximum of 10% of the blend (each).

According to this article published by Meininger’s Wine Business International in July of 2021, the changes are intended to counteract future issues that may arise from climate change, as well as to allow for the creation of a crisp, “fresher” flavor profile in Crémant de Bordeaux Rosé. The changes will be in force as of the 2021 vintage.

References/for more information:

• Cahier des Charges-Crémant de Bordeaux AOC-update Nov 2021
• Extract from the Offical Journal of the EU—February 24 2022
• https://www.planete-bordeaux.fr/en/who-are-we/presentation-en/our-appellations
• https://cremants.com/en/cremant-de-bordeaux/
• https://www.wine-business-international.com/wine/news/variety-expansion

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

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There are changes underfoot in the Etna DOC and for once, they do not involve the rumbling mountain. Rather, a few updates to the Disciplinare di Produzione for the Etna DOC have been announced (and published in the Gazzetta Ufficiale della Repubblica Italiana on February 3, 2022).

These updates do not impact the current regulations for the bianco/white wines of the region (produced using a minimum of 60% Carricante) nor the rosso/red or rosato/rosé (produced from a minimum of 80% Nerello Mascalese).

Rather, these changes add a bit of specificity (and hopefully, prestige) to the sparkling wines of the Etna DOC. Previously, the region was approved for the production of sparkling wines (both white and rosé) grouped under one classification—spumante—based on a minimum of 60% Nerello Mascalese.

Photo via: sostatresanti.com

Under the new regulations, two styles of sparkling wines are allowed to be produced, both requiring a minimum of 80% Nerello Mascalese:

• Etna Spumante Bianco DOC
  • Grape varieties:
    • Minimum 80% Nerello Mascalese
    • Maximum 20% “other grapes suitable for cultivation in Sicily”
  • Color: “giallo paglierino più o meno intense” (straw yellow, somewhat intense)
  • Aroma: “intenso e caratteristico, talvolta con note agrumate accompagnate” (intense, citrus, yeast)
  • Must be vinified as a white wine using red grapes

• Etna Spumante Rosato/Rosè DOC
  • Grape varieties:
    • Minimum 80% Nerello Mascalese
    • Maximum 20% “other grapes suitable for cultivation in Sicily”
  • Color: “rosato più o meno intenso anche con riflessi aranciati” (intense pink/rose with orange inflections)
  • Aroma: “intenso e caratteristico, con note floreali e speziate accompagnate da un delicato sentore di lievito” (floral/spicy/yeast)
  • May be vinified as a rosé wine using red grapes and/or may be produced using a combination of white and red grapes

• The following standards have not changed, and apply to both styles of Etna Spumante DOC:
  • Production method: must be produced via the traditional method of sparkling wine production (second fermentation in the bottle)
  • Lees aging: minimum of 18 months
  • Sweetness level: Brut or Extra Dry
  • Alcohol: minimum 11% abv

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As with all such updates, this change will need to wind its way through EU authorization; however, as the Italian government has granted their approval, the changes will be in force (as scheduled) with the release of the wines of the 2020 vintage. If the EU fails to approve the amendment, the regulation will be rescinded (although this is quite unlikely to happen).

References/for more information:

• Gazzetta Ufficiale Feb 2022-Etna DOC (see page 110)
• Proposed modifications Etna DOC-November 2021
• Click here for a map of Sicily and the Etna DOC, via Federdoc

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Pinot Noir vineyards along the Kawarau River

On February 1 (2022), the New Zealand Office of Intellectual Property registered Bannockburn as an official geographical indication (GI) for wine production. Bannockburn is now a registered sub-region of the Central Otago GI (as well as a GI in its own right).

In New Zealand—as is done in most of the world of wine beyond Europe—geographical indications do not assign restrictions as to grape varieties or wine styles grown and produced, but rather define just the physical boundaries of a region.

Here are some of the defining characteristics of the newly minted Bannockburn GI:

• The Bannockburn GI is located within the larger Cromwell Basin and defined by the Kawarau River and Lake Dunstan to the north and the high mountains of the Southern Alps—specifically the Cairnmuir and Carrick Ranges—to the east, south and west.
• The southern edge of the area is drawn along a contour measured at 400 meters/1,320 feet above sea level. From this line, the area slopes gently down to an elevation of 195 meters/650 feet, with generally north-facing slopes and terraces.
• Soil types include decomposed greywacke, schist, ancient lakebed sediment (alluvium), quartz (gravel), sand, and loess.
• The location—within the Cromwell Basin and surrounded by mountains—means that rainfall is low and the climate is classified as “truly continental.”’
• Bannockburn GI is the warmest part of Central Otago and further from the sea than most other points in New Zealand.

www.iponz.govt.nz

The leading grape varieties of the Bannockburn GI include Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, and Riesling. Minor plantings include Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, and Grūner Veltliner. As of 2019, the area had total of 145 acres/350 hectares planted to commercial vines.

The first vinifera vines in the area were planted by John Olssen and Heather MacPherson in 1991. The term “Bannockburn” was first used on a wine label to indicate place-of-orign for grapes in 2009. At last count, there were six wineries operating in the area (and several others making wine from Bannockburn fruit). Current producers include Terra Sancta Winery, Felton Road Winery, Mount Difficulty, Carrick Winery, and Akura Winery.

Welcome to the world, Bannockburn GI!

Note: the Central Otago GI is considered to contain five other sub-regions. However, we have not (yet) found any evidence of an effort to declare these areas as geographical indications and as such, these other five sub-regions remain unofficial. For the record, they are: Gibbston; Cromwell, Lowburn and Pisa; Bendigo; Wanaka; and Alexandra.

References/for more information:

• https://www.iponz.govt.nz/about-ip/geographical-indications/register/bannockburn/
• Bannockburn GI-Application via the NZIPO
• Central Otago Wine Region | New Zealand Wine (nzwine.com) (includes a good map of Central Otago and sub-regions)

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org