Dispatch from Empordà: Carignan Blanc is Official

Graphic via: https://www.doemporda.cat/

Graphic via: https://www.doemporda.cat/

Empordà—a Spanish wine region (denominación de origen/DO)—is located in the northern reaches of Catalonia, just to the south of the Banyuls AOC in France’s Roussillon region. Viticulture and wine production in the area surrounding modern-day Empordà can be traced back to Greek settlements in the area (circa 600 BCE), and is known to have flourished throughout the Middle Ages.

Viticulture and winemaking in the area took quite a blow from phylloxera, in the late 1800s, but by the middle of the 20th century vineyards had been re-planted and wine from Empordà was flowing once again. The area first received DO status in 1975, when it was known as Empordà–Costa Brava, in order to take advantage of the area’s reputation as a beautiful beach-side destination and food-and-wine hotspot. While the area’s reputation remains intact, the name of the wine region was changed to simply Empordà DO in 2006.

The Empordà DO is approved for a long list of grape varieties and an equally impressive list of allowed wine styles. These include still (non-sparkling) wines in red (tinto), white (blanco) and rosé (rosado), as well as sparkling wines (vino espumoso), fizzy/slightly sparkling wines (vino de aguja) and fortified wines (vino de licor). Specialties of the region include Garnatxa del Empordà, a sweet, fortified wine made from sun-dried Garnacha grapes, and Moscatell del Empordà, produced using Moscatel de Alejandría and/or Moscatel de Grano Menudo (Muscat of Alexandria and/or Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains).

Photo via: https://www.doemporda.cat/

Photo via: https://www.doemporda.cat/

The white wines of Empordà are in the news this week. Just yesterday (March 3, 2020) it was announced that an amendment to the region’s pliego de condiciones had been approved and published in the Boletín Oficial del Estado de Espana (Official Bulletin of Spain). This proposal had been in the works for several years; and allows for the use of the Cariñena Blanca (Carignan Blanc) grape variety to be used in the wines of the region. The Empordà DO is the first to allow the use of Cariñena Blanca in its wines.

Cariñena Blanca is a white-skinned mutation of Carignan Noir (also known as Cariñena, Samsó, or Mazuelo). By all accounts, it has been grown and used in the white blends of the region for generations —the region even boasts some 100-year-old Cariñena Blanca vines—despite the fact that it was never entered into the list of official varieties for Spain. This has all changed now, as the official list of recommended grape varieties for the DO now includes Cariñena Blanca, in addition to Garnatxa Blanca (Grenache Blanc), Macabeu (Macabeo/Viura), and Moscatel d’Alexandria. Other authorized white varieties include Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, and Xarel·lo

There are currently about 55 wine-producing estates and just over 1,825 hectares/4,510 acres planted to vine in the Empordà DO.  Perhaps one of the estates will produced a varietal Cariñena Blanca in 2020—it could happen!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Welcome to the World, Vino de Pago Vera de Estenas!

Photo of Bodegas Vera de Estenas via: http://veradeestenas.es/

Photo of Bodegas Vera de Estenas via: http://veradeestenas.es/

Spain has a new Vino de Pago! The new geographic indication—Vino de Pago Vera de Estenas—was published in the Official Journal of the European Union on November 4, 2019, and the appellation will be in effect as of November 24, 2019.

The newly-registered Pago is located in the comunidad autónoma of Valencia, and is surrounded by the Utiel-Requena DO. This is the fourth vino de pago to be registered in Valencia. The demarcated area extends over a gentle slope that descends from Sierra Juan Navarro towards the valley of the Magro River and the Estenas Stream.

According to the fresh-off-the-presses documentation, the wines produced in the Vino de Pago Vera de Estenas will include the following:

  • Red Wines:
    • Based on Bobal, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo, and/or Merlot
    • Minimum abv: 12.5%
    • Maximum RS: 4 g/L
    • According to the pliego de condiciones, the red wines should be deep red in color, dry in taste, with aromas of warm red fruit and vanilla when young. Gran Reserva wines should be garnet in appearance and show aromas of ripe red fruit, wood, spice, vanilla, and roasted oak.
    • Red wiines are fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks.
    • Ageing takes place in oak casks with a capacity of 225 or 300 litres. Wines that are aged in oak for less than six months may use the label term “Cask-aged” (Madurado en Barrica); those that are barrel-aged for longer may use the terms “Crianza,” “Reserva,” or “Gran Reserva” in accordance with the general regulations for the wines of Spain.
  • Rosé/Rosado Wines:
    • May be based on on Bobal, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo, and/or Merlot; however, most rosé is produced using Bobal
    • Minimum abv: 12%
    • According to the pliego de condiciones, the rosado wines should be red in appearance with strawberry tones and hints of purple. These wines should have intensely fruity aromas and lively, well-balanced flavors.
    • Rosado wines are fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks.
  • Barrel-fermented White Wines:
    • Produced using Chardonnay
    • White wines are fermented in new oak casks of 225 or 300 liters.
    • Minimum abv: 12%
    • According to the pliego de condiciones, the white wines should have a brilliant straw-yellow color, intensely fruity aromas and a round, full bodied texture.
.

.

It seems there is only one winery currently located within the demarcated area: Bodega Vera de Estenas. However, a group of vineyard owners in the area formed a coalition in order to support and apply for the PDO. If new wineries open in the area, they will be eligible to apply for the rights to use the term “Vino de Pago Vera de Estenas.

Welcome to the world, Vino de Pago Vera de Estenas!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Welcome to the world, Côtes de Provence Notre-Dame des Anges!

.

.

As of August 10, 2019, the Côtes de Provence AOC has a new official sub-region: Notre-Dame des Anges. This makes for a total of five sub-regions assigned to the appellation, including those previously named—Sainte-Victoire, Fréjus, La Londe, and Pierrefeu. The name Notre-Dame des Anges refers to one of the highest peaks in the Massif des Maures. The peak of the mountain is visible throughout the appellation and—for those willing to make the climb—is adorned with the 19th-century Chapel of Notre-Dames des Anges (Our Lady of the Angels).

The defined region consists of ten communes—Les Arcs/Argens, Carnoules, Taradeau, Vidauban, Le Cannet-des-Maures, La Garde-Freinet, Le Luc, Les Mayons, Gonfaron and Pignans—located somewhat in the center area of the Var Department of Southeastern France. The area currently has 9,640 acres (3,900 ha) planted to vine, but for the time being only a portion of the established vineyards have been approved for use of the Notre-Dame des Anges designation. The area is unique from the surrounding terrain due to slope, aspect, and elevation, and well as soils dominated by sandstone, limestone, and schist.

.

.

The Côtes de Provence Notre-Dame des Anges AOC is approved for red and rosé wines. The specifications include the following:

  • Principal varieties: Cinsault, Grenache Noir, and Syrah
    • At least 80% of the blend must be made using principal varieties, and no single grape may comprise more than 80% of the total blend
  • Accessory varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, Clairette Blanc, Mourvèdre, Sémillon, Tibouren, Ugni Blanc, and Vermentino
    • Carignan is limited to a maximum of 10% of the blend
    • Clairette Blanc, Sémillon, and Ugni Blanc are limited to a combined maximum of 10% of the blend—and—the combination of Clairette Blanc, Sémillon, Ugni Blanc, and Vermentino is limited to a maximum of 20% of the blend
  • For red wines:
    • Minimum 12% abv
    • Date of first allowed release: September 1 of the year following harvest
  • For rosé:
    • Minimum 11.5% abv
    • Date of first allowed release:  December 15 of the harvest year

This modification to the Cahier des Charges for the Côtes de Provence AOC was approved by the INAO on February 14, 2019 and published in the Official Journal of France on August 10, 2019. Wines labeled with the appellation Côtes de Provence Notre-Dame des Anges AOC will be allowed as of the 2019 vintage release; however, the modification will still need to seek the final approval of the European Union.

Welcome to the world, Côtes de Provence Notre-Dame des Anges!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Welcome to the World, Vino de Pago El Vicario!

Photo via: https://pagodelvicario.com/

Photo via: https://pagodelvicario.com/

On Tuesday, August 6, 2019 the EU-approved Vino de Pago el Vicario protected designation of origin/PDO wine of Spain came into force.

The newly-registered Pago is located in the comunidad autónoma of Castilla-La Mancha, and is surrounded by the larger La Mancha DO. The registration of the Vino de Pago el Vicario makes a total of 19 Pagos registered in Spain (of which 12 are located in the region of Castilla-La Mancha). According to the fresh-off-the-presses documentation, the details concerning the Vino de Pago el Vicario PDO includes the following:

Location: 86 parcels are approved for use in the wines of the Vino de Pago El Vicario; all of these are located in the municipality of ciudad Real (Castilla–La Mancha, Spain).

Allowed grape varieties: Tempranillo, Syrah, Garnacha Tinta, Cabernet Sauvignon, Graciano, Petit Verdot Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc

Photo via: https://pagodelvicario.com/

Photo via: https://pagodelvicario.com/

Types/styles of wine:

  • Vino blanco parcialmente fermentado en barrica (partially barrel-fermented white wine)
    • Produced from Chardonnay and/or Sauvignon Blanc, macerated on the grape skins for 12 to 24 hours prior to pressing; small amounts of Tempranillo and/or Garnacha Tinta may be used as well
    • At least 15% of the must is barrel-fermented and allowed to rest on the lees (in the barrels) for 4 to 8 months. Barrels must be European Oak and no older than two years of age. The remainder of the must may be fermented in stainless steel.
  • Vino blanco de uva tinta (white wine from black grapes/blanc de noir)
    • Produced using Tempranillo and/or Garnacha Tinta
    • Fermented in stainless steel
  • Vino rosado (rosé)
    • Produced using Petit Verdot
    • Stainless steel fermentation
  • Vino blanco semidulce (semi-sweet white wine)
    • Produced from Chardonnay and/or Sauvignon Blanc, macerated on the grape skins for 12 to 24 hours prior to pressing
    • Fermented in stainless steel
    • 1.2% to 4.5% residual sugar
  • Vinos tintos elaborados con mezcla de variedades autóctonas y foráneas (blended red wines made with indigenous and international varieties)
    • Produced using Tempranillo, Graciano, Garnacha Tinta, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, and/or Petit Verdot
    • Maceration lasts between 5 and 22 days, grapes may be separately or co-fermented, fermentation is followed by barrel aging (no time specified)
  • Vinos tintos elaborados con mezcla de variedades autóctonas foráneas (blended red wines made with indigenous varieties)
    • Produced using Tempranillo, Graciano, and/or Garnacha Tinta
    • Maceration lasts between 5 and 22 days, grapes may be separately or co-fermented, fermentation is followed by barrel aging (no time specified)
  • Vino tinto dulce (sweet red wine)
    • Produced solely using Merlot
    • Maceration lasts between 6 and 15 days, minimum of 4.5% residual sugar

The area is named for the Vicario Dam, located along the River Guadiana. The demarcated area is located about 2 km (1.2 miles) from the river itself and consists of gently rolling hills leading to the banks of the river. The limestone soil is shallow and contains an exceptionally high level of calcium. The proximity to the river (and its temperature-moderating effects) as well as the unique soil of the area help to differentiate the Pago del Vicario PDO from the remainder of the La Mancha DO.

Welcome to the world, Vino de Pago el Vicario!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Congratulations on your Promotion: Tullum DOCG!

.

.

As of June 18, 2019, the Italian Ministry of Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policies (Ministero delle Politiche Agricole, Alimentari e Forestali or MiPAAF) has registered the promotion of Tullum (also known as Terre Tollesi) to be Italy’s 75th DOCG for wine. (Tullum was formerly—since 2008—a DOC.)

Located in Italy’s Abruzzo Region (and centered around the town of Tollo), the Tullum DOCG is just a few miles inland from taly’s Adriatic coastline (within the Cheiti Province). Tullum is the second DOCG in Abruzzo—the first was the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane DOCG, promoted from a former sub-region of the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC in 2003.

According to the Disciplinare (rules and regulations), the Tullum DOCG will produce red, white, and sparkling wines. The standards include the following:

  • .

    .

    Rosso: Minimum 95% Montepulciano grapes, up to 5% other red grapes approved for use in Abruzzo, minimum 13% abv, may be released as early as January 1 of the second year following harvest

  • Rosso Riserva: Minimum 95% Montepulciano grapes, up to 5% other red grapes approved for use in Abruzzo, minimum 13.5% abv, must be aged for a minimum of two years (beginning on January 1 of the year following harvest) to include at least six months in wood
  • Pecorino: Minimum 90% Pecorino, up to 10% other white grapes approved for use in Abruzzo, minimum 13% abv, may be released as early as January 1 of the year following harvest
  • Passerina: Minimum 90% Passerina, up to 10% other white grapes approved for use in Abruzzo, minimum 12.5% abv, may be released as early as January 1 of the year following harvest
  • Spumante: Minimum 60% Chardonnay; the remainder is allowed to be other non-aromatic grapes approved for use in Abruzzo, minimum 12% abv, may be produced in a range of sweetness styles from brut nature to dolce

Welcome to the world, Tullum DOCG! The registration for the Tullum DOCG will need to wind its way through the EU approval process, but with the blessing of the MiPAAF, the designation will be allowed for use on wine labels as of the 2019 vintage (along with some “eligible stock” from previous vintages). We’ll post more information as it becomes available.

Note: As of the latest count, Italy has 75 DOCGs and over 330 DOCs for wine. More are sure to follow!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles, your blog administrator…

News from Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine: Four New Sub-zones Approved

.

.

On Wednesday, June 19, 2019 France’s Institut National de l’origine et de la Qualité (INAO) approved a revision of the Cahier des Charges of the Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine AOC and in doing so, approved four new sub-zones for the appellation. These geographical indications are sometimes referred to as Crus, or Crus Communaux (cru communal zones).

This new announcement means that the appellation now contains seven sub-zones including Clisson, Gorges, and Le Pallet (approved in 2011). These seven sub-zones represent the highest-quality wines (and very limited production) from the large and Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine appellation.

The Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine AOC is located in the Pays Nantais area of France’s Loire Valley, and is known for still (non-sparkling) white wines produced using 100% Melon de Bourgogne grapes. Much of the production is produced in the sur lie style, requiring that the wine be aged on the lees (expired yeast cells) until at least March 1 of the year following the harvest. (A sub-zone designation typically requires longer minimum sure lie aging times as well as other specific standards required for qualification.)

Map of Muscadet via: https://www.vinsvaldeloire.fr/en

Map of Muscadet via: https://www.vinsvaldeloire.fr/en

The new sub-zones are as follows:

Goulaine: Goulaine is the northernmost as well as the largest of the seven crus of Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine AOC. This area is dominated by a series of small hills overlooking the Marais de Goulaine (a swampy area known as the Marsh of Goulaine). Top soils are coarse and sandy; subsoils are mainly metamorphic (gneiss and schist). Vines in the Goulaine sub-zone tend to have early bud break and are often the first vines in the area to be ready for harvest.

Château-Thébaud: The Château-Thébaud sub-zone is located in the southwest portion of the Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine AOC, just to the north of Clisson. The area consists mainly of hills and hillsides, some of them steep and wooded. Many of the finest vineyard sites are located near the Maine River as it flows through this area in a north/northwest direction. Soils are mainly sandy/stony atop granite and gneiss.

Detail of the map of Muscadet via: https://www.vinsvaldeloire.fr/en

Detail of the map of Muscadet via: https://www.vinsvaldeloire.fr/en

Monnières-Saint-Fiacre: The Monnières-Saint-Fiacre cru—also located just to the north of the Clisson subzone—lies just to the east of Château-Thébaud. The vineyards are planted on a succession of hillsides spread over eastern bank of the River Sèvre, extending into the surrounding valleys and woods. The soils consist primarily of sandy loam over a subsoil of gneiss and some clay.

Mouzillon-Tillières: Mouzillon-Tillières is located to the north of the River Sèvre, to the north/northeast of the Gorges sub-zone. It is centered around the Sanguèze River (a 44km-/27 mile-long tributary of the Loire).  The vines are planted on a series of small hillsides and outcrops along both the sides of the river. The soils are mainly composed of sand and clay over gabbro bedrock (gabbro is an igneous rock created by the slow, underground cooling of magma).

Keep those flashcards handy: According to the website of Loire Valley Wines (Vins de Val de Loire), three more areas— La Haye-Fouassière and Vallet (in Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine), as well as Champtoceaux (located within the Muscadet Coteaux de la Loire AOC)—are being considered for sub-zone status.

Please note that while you will be able to see these subzones on wine labels beginning with the 2018 harvest, the new-and-improved Cahier des Charges for the Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine AOC (as linked below) will still need to wind its way through the EU registration process.

Click here for more information on Muscadet (note the details on the Clisson, Gorges, and Le Pallet sub-zones near the bottom of the page).

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

References/for more information: