Category Archives: Testable Material for the CWE Exam

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On March 30 (2022), the Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité (INAO) of France published a newly approved use of the word Cru, as it applies to wine regions and wine labels. This move makes the term Cru part of the official hierarchy of wine designations.

Put simply, the term cru may now be used in conjunction with a legally-approved sub-appellation—a Dénomination Géographique Complémentaire (Complementary Geographical Denomination/DGC)—as part of the hierarchy of a wine with an Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) designation.

Only a small percentage of France’s AOCs have previously designated DCGs; some well-known examples include the Bourgogne AOC, Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine AOC, and Côtes du Rhône-Villages AOC. Under the new guidelines, the name of a wine produced from grapes grown in—for example—the La Chapelle Notre-Dame sub-appellation of the Bourgogne AOC may appear on a wine label as follows: Bourgogne–La Chapelle Notre-Dame Cru AOC.

• To use the term cru on a wine label, it must meet the following criteria:
  • The DCG must be legally designated and based on consistency of terroir (a lieu-dit)
  • The DCG must be small in total geographic area (defined as a single locality or no more than ten communes)
  • The wine is subject to a tasting panel and must be deemed to be of exceptional character
  • Approval of the INAO

As any good wine student has no doubt already noted, this may—at least initially—lend some confusion on the use of the term cru, as it is already seen in the many Premiers Crus, Grand Crus, and even the Troisièmes, Quatrièmes, and Cinquièmes Crus of the myriad wines of France.

Here’s to the new crus?

References/for more information:

• https://www.inao.gouv.fr/A-la-Une/mention-cru

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

On February 28 (2022), the EU granted its approval to a new Spanish wine appellation—the Vino de Pago Dehesa Peñalba—as a protected designation of origin/PDO for red wine.

The new appellation is located along the south bank of the Duero River—just to the west of the Ribera del Duero DO—in the central portion of the comunidad autónoma of Castilla y León. The news was announced to the world via its approval and publication in the Official Journal of the European Union.

The Vino de Pago Dehesa Peñalba is approved for red wines based on Tempranillo, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and/or Merlot. Both mono-varietal wines and multi-varietal (blended) wines are produced. The appellation carries some very specific production requirements for its wines; some of these are discussed below:

• Vino Tinto Joven (Young Red Wines):
  • Grapes are hand-harvested and chilled upon arrival at the winery
  • Pre-fermentation cold soak (5-10 °C) is conducted for 5 to 8 days
  • Primary fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks
  • Post-fermentation, the wine is aged on the lees for at least 15 days
  • Micro-oxygenation is carried out at a dosage rate of 15 ml per liter per month for 3 days and 6 ml per liter per month for 8 days.
• Vino Tinto con Envejecimiento (Aged Red Wines):
  • All of the procedures listed above apply, and the wines are aged in 225-liter oak barrels or 5,000-liter wooden vats for at least 12 months (but typically 24 months or longer).

The area inside the demarcated Vino de Pago Deheasa Peñalba zone is an uninterrupted stretch of land situated just south of the Duero River. The warm, sandy, and well-drained soils are punctuated by gravel and pebbles. The area is surrounded by pine forests and well-positioned to enjoy a long, frost-free growing season that in turn helps to create well-ripened grapes with deeply colored skin and a high phenolic content. Well-known wineries in the region include Bodegas Vizar and Abadía Retuerta.

The new vino de pago is named for Peñalba de Duero—a long-abandoned town located along the banks of the Duero River. Viticulture in the area has a documented history dating back to 1751; however, it is believed that vines have been cultivated in the area since the fifteenth century. Throughout recorded history, the area has been variously referred to as Dehesa, La Dehesa, Dehesa de Peñalba, and Peñalba La Verde in addition to Peñalba de Duero. However, all of these names refer to the same place, which has been known as Dehesa Peñalba for at least the last 30 years.

References/for more information:

• Journal of the EU Feb 28 2022-Dehesa Penalba PDO
• Product Spec-Dehesa Penalba via the EC
• Proposal re Dehesa Penalba via Castilla y Leon

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Sparkling wine made in Bordeaux—as produced under the Crémant de Bordeaux AOC—has always been something of an enigma. After all, Bordeaux is known as the land of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

However, traditional method sparkling wine is produced in Bordeaux—using the same slate of grapes as are allowed in the more recognizable dry red and sweet white wines of the region. While the output is small—as little as 2.7% of the region’s total output, for a typical annual output of just over six million bottles—sparkling wines have been made in the area for a little over one hundred years. The specific appellation for bubbly—Crémant de Bordeaux AOC—was originally approved (for white and rosé sparkling wine) in 1990.

Map via the INAO

The white wines—Crémant de Bordeaux Blanc—may be produced using a minimum of 70% (combined) Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Carmenère, Muscadelle, Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Sauvignon Gris; (optionally) accompanied by up to 30% of the accessory varieties (Colombard, Merlot Blanc, and Ugni Blanc). However, a typical bottle of Crémant de Bordeaux Blanc will be based on Sémillon (which accounts for over 60% of the vineyards dedicated to Bordeaux bubbly) and Sauvignon Blanc.

Until recently, Crémant de Bordeaux Rosé was allowed to be made using the red grapes of the region—Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot, and Carmenère—only. However, this has recently changed.

The Cahier des Charges for the Crémant de Bordeaux was updated in November of 2021, and with the publication in the Official Journal of the EU on February 24, 2022, the following change was made—rosé may be produced using a minimum of 70% of the named red grapes; the other 30% may comprise certain white grapes of Bordeaux. The allowed white grapes include Muscadelle, Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Sauvignon Gris. Of these, Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Gris are limited to a maximum of 10% of the blend (each).

According to this article published by Meininger’s Wine Business International in July of 2021, the changes are intended to counteract future issues that may arise from climate change, as well as to allow for the creation of a crisp, “fresher” flavor profile in Crémant de Bordeaux Rosé. The changes will be in force as of the 2021 vintage.

References/for more information:

• Cahier des Charges-Crémant de Bordeaux AOC-update Nov 2021
• Extract from the Offical Journal of the EU—February 24 2022
• https://www.planete-bordeaux.fr/en/who-are-we/presentation-en/our-appellations
• https://cremants.com/en/cremant-de-bordeaux/
• https://www.wine-business-international.com/wine/news/variety-expansion

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

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There are changes underfoot in the Etna DOC and for once, they do not involve the rumbling mountain. Rather, a few updates to the Disciplinare di Produzione for the Etna DOC have been announced (and published in the Gazzetta Ufficiale della Repubblica Italiana on February 3, 2022).

These updates do not impact the current regulations for the bianco/white wines of the region (produced using a minimum of 60% Carricante) nor the rosso/red or rosato/rosé (produced from a minimum of 80% Nerello Mascalese).

Rather, these changes add a bit of specificity (and hopefully, prestige) to the sparkling wines of the Etna DOC. Previously, the region was approved for the production of sparkling wines (both white and rosé) grouped under one classification—spumante—based on a minimum of 60% Nerello Mascalese.

Photo via: sostatresanti.com

Under the new regulations, two styles of sparkling wines are allowed to be produced, both requiring a minimum of 80% Nerello Mascalese:

• Etna Spumante Bianco DOC
  • Grape varieties:
    • Minimum 80% Nerello Mascalese
    • Maximum 20% “other grapes suitable for cultivation in Sicily”
  • Color: “giallo paglierino più o meno intense” (straw yellow, somewhat intense)
  • Aroma: “intenso e caratteristico, talvolta con note agrumate accompagnate” (intense, citrus, yeast)
  • Must be vinified as a white wine using red grapes

• Etna Spumante Rosato/Rosè DOC
  • Grape varieties:
    • Minimum 80% Nerello Mascalese
    • Maximum 20% “other grapes suitable for cultivation in Sicily”
  • Color: “rosato più o meno intenso anche con riflessi aranciati” (intense pink/rose with orange inflections)
  • Aroma: “intenso e caratteristico, con note floreali e speziate accompagnate da un delicato sentore di lievito” (floral/spicy/yeast)
  • May be vinified as a rosé wine using red grapes and/or may be produced using a combination of white and red grapes

• The following standards have not changed, and apply to both styles of Etna Spumante DOC:
  • Production method: must be produced via the traditional method of sparkling wine production (second fermentation in the bottle)
  • Lees aging: minimum of 18 months
  • Sweetness level: Brut or Extra Dry
  • Alcohol: minimum 11% abv

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As with all such updates, this change will need to wind its way through EU authorization; however, as the Italian government has granted their approval, the changes will be in force (as scheduled) with the release of the wines of the 2020 vintage. If the EU fails to approve the amendment, the regulation will be rescinded (although this is quite unlikely to happen).

References/for more information:

• Gazzetta Ufficiale Feb 2022-Etna DOC (see page 110)
• Proposed modifications Etna DOC-November 2021
• Click here for a map of Sicily and the Etna DOC, via Federdoc

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Pinot Noir vineyards along the Kawarau River

On February 1 (2022), the New Zealand Office of Intellectual Property registered Bannockburn as an official geographical indication (GI) for wine production. Bannockburn is now a registered sub-region of the Central Otago GI (as well as a GI in its own right).

In New Zealand—as is done in most of the world of wine beyond Europe—geographical indications do not assign restrictions as to grape varieties or wine styles grown and produced, but rather define just the physical boundaries of a region.

Here are some of the defining characteristics of the newly minted Bannockburn GI:

• The Bannockburn GI is located within the larger Cromwell Basin and defined by the Kawarau River and Lake Dunstan to the north and the high mountains of the Southern Alps—specifically the Cairnmuir and Carrick Ranges—to the east, south and west.
• The southern edge of the area is drawn along a contour measured at 400 meters/1,320 feet above sea level. From this line, the area slopes gently down to an elevation of 195 meters/650 feet, with generally north-facing slopes and terraces.
• Soil types include decomposed greywacke, schist, ancient lakebed sediment (alluvium), quartz (gravel), sand, and loess.
• The location—within the Cromwell Basin and surrounded by mountains—means that rainfall is low and the climate is classified as “truly continental.”’
• Bannockburn GI is the warmest part of Central Otago and further from the sea than most other points in New Zealand.

www.iponz.govt.nz

The leading grape varieties of the Bannockburn GI include Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, and Riesling. Minor plantings include Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, and Grūner Veltliner. As of 2019, the area had total of 145 acres/350 hectares planted to commercial vines.

The first vinifera vines in the area were planted by John Olssen and Heather MacPherson in 1991. The term “Bannockburn” was first used on a wine label to indicate place-of-orign for grapes in 2009. At last count, there were six wineries operating in the area (and several others making wine from Bannockburn fruit). Current producers include Terra Sancta Winery, Felton Road Winery, Mount Difficulty, Carrick Winery, and Akura Winery.

Welcome to the world, Bannockburn GI!

Note: the Central Otago GI is considered to contain five other sub-regions. However, we have not (yet) found any evidence of an effort to declare these areas as geographical indications and as such, these other five sub-regions remain unofficial. For the record, they are: Gibbston; Cromwell, Lowburn and Pisa; Bendigo; Wanaka; and Alexandra.

References/for more information:

• https://www.iponz.govt.nz/about-ip/geographical-indications/register/bannockburn/
• Bannockburn GI-Application via the NZIPO
• Central Otago Wine Region | New Zealand Wine (nzwine.com) (includes a good map of Central Otago and sub-regions)

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

With the debut of the Sekt Austria PDO, the Austrian Wine Marketing Board has announced a change in the way that the country’s sparkling wines will be classified and labeled. Prior to the change, these wines were labeled using the term Sekt gU—an initialism referring to the term geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung. This change (announced on February 2, 2022 and effective immediately) is designed to draw attention to the fact that these wines—easily recognizable by the red-and-white striped banderole on the capsule—are produced using 100% Austrian grapes.

Three tiers of quality wine—including Reserve and Grosse Reserve—will be produced under the Sekt Austria PDO. Wine labeled under the Sekt Austria PDO designation may be made using any approved sparkling wine production method (including the tank method/méthode Charmat or transfer method); Reserve and Grosse Reserve wines must undergo a second fermentation and less aging in the bottle (according to the traditional method/méthode traditionelle of sparkling wine production).

Photo of Austria’s Thermenregion by Anna Stöcher ©AWMB

Further details of these tiers are as follows:

• Sekt Austria PDO:
  • Grapes must be harvested from a single (federal) state
  • Any approved sparkling wine production method may be used
  • Minimum 9 months aging on the lees
• Sekt Austria Reserve PDO:
  • Grapes must be harvested from a single (federal) state
  • Grapes must be hand harvested
  • Must be produced using the traditional method
  • Minimum 18 months aging on the lees
• Sekt Austria Grosse Reserve PDO:
  • Grapes must be harvested from a single municipality
  • Grapes must be hand harvested
  • Must be produced using the traditional method
  • Minimum 36 months aging on the lees
  • Wines may be labeled with a single vineyard as the designation of origin

Austrian Sekt PDO may be produced using any of the 40 grapes allowed for use in the production of Qualitätswein in Austria and must contain at least 3.5 atm of pressure. Click here for a list of The-Austria-40-wine-grapes-approved-for-use-in-Austria.

Note: Austria will continue to allow the production of Sekt without a geographical indication; such wines may be labeled with the term Austrian Sekt or Austrian Qualitätsschaumwein—without the notation of PDO.

As with all such updates, this change will need to wind its way through EU authorization; however, as the Austrian government has granted their approval, the changes will be in force (as scheduled) with the release of the wines of the 2021 vintage. If the EU fails to approve the amendment, the regulation will be rescinded (although this is quite unlikely to happen).

References/for more information:

• Austrian Wine Marketing Board/Sekt 
• Sekt Austria PDO Classification Pyramid (pdf)
• Collective Agreement – Updates to Austrian Wine Law Feb 2022

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

On November 10, 2021, the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States announced the approval of the Lower Long Tom AVA. When this new AVA comes into force on December 10 (2021), the total number of AVAs in the United States will be 260. Lower Long Tom represents the 22^nd AVA in Oregon, and the tenth sub-appellation of the Willamette Valley AVA.

The Lower Long Tom AVA covers a total of 25,000 acres in portions of Lane and Benton Counties. It is located towards the southwestern edge of the Willamette Valley AVA, tucked along the eastern side of the Coast Mountain Range and about 14 miles (22 km) northwest of Eugene.

The appellation takes its name from the Long Tom River, located along a portion of its eastern boundary. The Long Tom River—a tributary of the Willamette River—flows northward for 57 miles (92 km) in the area between Eugene and Corvallis before joining the Willamette River. The AVA is located along the lower—downstream—portion of the river, north of Fern Ridge Lake.

According to the original petition, the distinguishing features of the Lower Long Tom AVA include its topography, soils, and climate, as discussed below:

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Topography: The area within the Lower Long Tom AVA is comprised of rolling hills, punctuated by a series of (west-east) valleys and ridges created by the tributaries of the Long Tom River. Elevations range from approximately 1,000 feet/305 m asl (along the western edge of the appellation) to approximately 550 feet/168 m (in the center and eastern portions) before dropping to the Willamette Valley floor. The area to the west of the appellation lies within the Coast Mountain Range and contains elevations as high as 3,000 feet/915 m.

 Soils: Bellpine soil (and Bellpine/Jory complex) are the main soils of the Lower Long Tom AVA. Bellpine soil consists of decomposed sandstone atop a sandstone or siltstone substrate. Bellpine soils are shallow and well-drained. Soils of the Bellpine/Jory complex combine decomposed sandstone and volcanic components and tend to have a slightly greater depth and capacity for water retention. In contrast, the soils in the areas surrounding the new appellation are primarily Jory (volcanic) soils, igneous (containing rocks and pebbles), or (to the west) more alluvial in character.

Climate:  The Lower Long Tom AVA lies within the rain shadow of the Coast Range. Prairie Mountain—a particularly tall mountain, reaching 3,422 feet/1,430 m in elevation—is located directly to the west of the appellation, helping to block the cooling marine influence coming from the west. The cool air is thus re-directed to the areas north and south of the region and as such, the Lower Long Tom AVA is somewhat warmer than the surrounding areas.

The Lower Long Tom AVA is home to at least 22 commercial vineyards and approximately 592 acres of vines. The region is home to 10 wineries, including Benton-Lane Winery, High Pass Winery, Antiqum Farm, and Bennett Wine Company.

Pinot Noir is the predominant grape of the Lower Long Tom AVA; other leading grapes include Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Sauvignon Blanc.

Welcome to the world, Lower Long Tom AVA!

References/for more information:

• Federal Register Nov 10 2021-Lower Long Tom AVA
• Lower Long Tom AVA Petition
• Lower Long Tom AVA Exhibits
• https://www.willamettewines.com/about-the-valley/ava-overviews/lower-long-tom/

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Photo of the city walls of Urueña by Nicolás Pérez

On November 4, 2021—after a long and winding road through the regulatory channels (the proposal was first drawn up in 2015)—the EU has registered Vino de Pago Urueña as a new protected designation of origin (PDO) for Spanish wine.

The new appellation, along with its single producer—Bodega Heredad de Urueña—is located in the Autonomous Community of Castilla y León in northwest Spain. The area—within the province of Valladolid—is famous for its medieval stone walls, restored city gates, and concentration of antiquarian bookstores (it has even been designated as a villa del libro (“city of books”).

Photo of the town of Urueña by Nicolás Pérez

The equally famous vineyards of Bodges Heredad de Urueña are located just to the north of the walled city. While the estate will continue to produce a range of grape varieties and styles of wine under the Vino de la Tierra Castilla y León designation, the wines produced under the PDO/Vino de Pago Urueña must be produced under the following guidelines:

• Vino tinto/red wine:
  • Allowed grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Tempranillo
  • Minimum alcohol: 13% abv
  • Description, per the pliego: The red wines are very intense in color. They are cherry or garnet red, with purple tones appearing at the rim. They have a great amount of aromatic complexity due to the combination of grape varieties used and are particularly characterized by their roundness and an absence of sharp edges.
• Vino rosado/rosé:
  • Allowed grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Tempranillo
  • Minimum alcohol: 12.5% abv
  • Description, per the pliego: Urueña rosés have raspberry-pink tones and the bluish notes of the Syrah variety, which occupies the largest proportion of the area under vines. Fresh fruit aromas predominate on the nose, together with some floral and caramel notes. The presence of red fruits is more characteristic of the Tempranillo rosés.

References/for more information:

• Extract from the Government of Spain/Ministry of Agriculture Website
• Extract from the EU Register – Uruena
• Commission Implementing Decision-Vino de Pago Uruena
• Pliego de Condiciones – PAGO URUEÑA
• https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/uruena
• Nuestras Bodegas – Heredad de Urueña (heredaduruena.com)
• Photos Nicolás Pérez via Wikimedia Commons

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org