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Welcome to the World, West Sonoma Coast AVA!

  By admin | May 23, 2022 - 12:28 pm | ,
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Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

On May 23 (2022) the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States announced the approval of the West Sonoma Coast American Viticultural Area (AVA). The newly minted AVA is located entirely within the existing Sonoma Coast AVA and is a sub-appellation of the larger North Coast AVA. The West Sonoma Coast AVA—which encompasses the existing Fort Ross-Seaview AVA—represents the 19th AVA located in Sonoma County.

The West Sonoma Coast AVA hugs the coastline of Sonoma County and exhibits an overall cool, maritime climate often described as cool enough to be marginal. The AVA currently contains more than fifty commercial vineyards (totaling just over 1,000 acres) planted within five to seven miles of the Pacific Ocean. The leading grape varieties include Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Syrah.

According to the original petition to establish the AVA—originally submitted to the TTB in December of 2018 by Patrick L. Shabram on behalf of the members of the association of West Sonoma Coast Vintners—the distinguishing features of the West Sonoma Coast AVA include its topography, geology, and climate, as described below.

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Topography: The West Sonoma Coast AVA is rugged territory, much of it defined by the steep mountains and ridgelines of the California Coast Range. The mountains in this area—often referred to as the Sonoma Coast Highlands—can reach as high as 1,000 feet/31 meters asl. Many of the vineyards are planted on the hillsides and mountain slopes, which are typically in excess of 5 degrees.

Geology: Much of the area within the West Sonoma Coast AVA consists of sedimentary bedrock and soils of the Franciscan Complex (which includes greywacke, shale, and sedimentary conglomerates). Rocks of the Franciscan Complex are not easily eroded, which contributes to the rugged ridgelines and steep slopes of the region. The soils have a high level of sand content, providing excellent drainage and low fertility.

Climate: As evidenced by its location, the West Sonoma Coast is a maritime climate highly influenced by coastal breezes, fog, and cool temperatures—much more so even than the surrounding areas including the Russian River Valley, Petaluma Gap, and the interior areas of the Sonoma Coast AVA. The West Sonoma Coast AVA is truly positioned to be a leader in cool climate viticulture!

When the West Sonoma Coast AVA comes into force on June 22 (2022), the total number of AVAs in the United States will be 262. Of these, 144 will be in California.

Welcome to the world, West Sonoma Coast AVA!

References/for more information:

 Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

One more for Oregon: Introducing the Lower Long Tom AVA

  By admin | November 11, 2021 - 11:56 am | ,
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Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

On November 10, 2021, the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States announced the approval of the Lower Long Tom AVA. When this new AVA comes into force on December 10 (2021), the total number of AVAs in the United States will be 260. Lower Long Tom represents the 22nd AVA in Oregon, and the tenth sub-appellation of the Willamette Valley AVA.

The Lower Long Tom AVA covers a total of 25,000 acres in portions of Lane and Benton Counties. It is located towards the southwestern edge of the Willamette Valley AVA, tucked along the eastern side of the Coast Mountain Range and about 14 miles (22 km) northwest of Eugene.

The appellation takes its name from the Long Tom River, located along a portion of its eastern boundary. The Long Tom River—a tributary of the Willamette River—flows northward for 57 miles (92 km) in the area between Eugene and Corvallis before joining the Willamette River. The AVA is located along the lower—downstream—portion of the river, north of Fern Ridge Lake.

According to the original petition, the distinguishing features of the Lower Long Tom AVA include its topography, soils, and climate, as discussed below:

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

Topography: The area within the Lower Long Tom AVA is comprised of rolling hills, punctuated by a series of (west-east) valleys and ridges created by the tributaries of the Long Tom River. Elevations range from approximately 1,000 feet/305 m asl (along the western edge of the appellation) to approximately 550 feet/168 m (in the center and eastern portions) before dropping to the Willamette Valley floor. The area to the west of the appellation lies within the Coast Mountain Range and contains elevations as high as 3,000 feet/915 m.

 Soils: Bellpine soil (and Bellpine/Jory complex) are the main soils of the Lower Long Tom AVA. Bellpine soil consists of decomposed sandstone atop a sandstone or siltstone substrate. Bellpine soils are shallow and well-drained. Soils of the Bellpine/Jory complex combine decomposed sandstone and volcanic components and tend to have a slightly greater depth and capacity for water retention. In contrast, the soils in the areas surrounding the new appellation are primarily Jory (volcanic) soils, igneous (containing rocks and pebbles), or (to the west) more alluvial in character.

Climate:  The Lower Long Tom AVA lies within the rain shadow of the Coast Range. Prairie Mountain—a particularly tall mountain, reaching 3,422 feet/1,430 m in elevation—is located directly to the west of the appellation, helping to block the cooling marine influence coming from the west. The cool air is thus re-directed to the areas north and south of the region and as such, the Lower Long Tom AVA is somewhat warmer than the surrounding areas.

The Lower Long Tom AVA is home to at least 22 commercial vineyards and approximately 592 acres of vines. The region is home to 10 wineries, including Benton-Lane Winery, High Pass Winery, Antiqum Farm, and Bennett Wine Company.

Pinot Noir is the predominant grape of the Lower Long Tom AVA; other leading grapes include Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Sauvignon Blanc.

Welcome to the world, Lower Long Tom AVA!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Vino Naranja del Condado de Huelva PGI

  By admin | March 2, 2020 - 7:49 am |
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Graphic via: https://docondadodehuelva.com/

Graphic via: https://docondadodehuelva.com/

Spain has one aromatized wine that holds a designated appellation of origin: Vino Naranja del Condado de Huelva. The name translates to Orange Wine of Condado de Huelva—however, this is a flavored wine macerated with actual oranges—not to be confused with the traditional skin-macerated white wines that are known as “orange wine” in many parts of the world. (No one ever said the wine world was void of confusing terminology—and they never will!)

Vino Naranja del Condado de Huelva is produced in the exact same defined geographical area as the slightly-better-known table wines of the Condado de Huelva DO. The region is located in on Andalucía’s Atlantic coast, about 45 miles/72 km northwest of Sanlúcar de Barrameda.

Vino Naranja del Condado del Huelva is produced using a base wine comprised exclusively of the products of the Condado de Huelva DO. The base may be a Condado de Huelva DO white wine, or a mistella (grape must that is muted [fortified] with grape spirits before or during fermentation). The preferred grape variety for these wines is the indigenous Zalema variety; however, the list of allowed grape varieties also includes Palomino Fino, Pedro Ximénez, Moscatel de Alejandría, Colombard, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay.

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To produce the aromatized wine, dried bitter orange peels are macerated with locally-produced grape spirit. This maceration must continue for at least six months; and must comprise at least 200 grams of dried orange peels per liter of spirit. One the maceration is complete; the flavored spirit is combined with the base wine.

Vino Naranja del Condado must next be oak-aged (in barrels of 650 liters or less) for a minimum of two years. This aging is typically done in a solera system, producing a concentrated, complex, and deeply oxidized wine with a dark amber color. The product is made in both dry and sweet styles. Fresh or concentrated grape must from the Condado de Huelva DO is allowed to be added as a sweetener.

Vino Naranja del Condado de Huelva is often served slightly chilled alongside savory appetizers and/or meals. It may also be enjoyed “on the rocks” with or without water or soda water. Many people feel that serving the wine with ice brings out the sweet character of the wine, making it an excellent accompaniment to sweet foods.

Graphic via: https://docondadodehuelva.com/

Graphic via: https://docondadodehuelva.com/

Vino Naranja del Condado de Huelva has been produced in the region for hundreds of years. Many references date its production back to 1770, and list Bodegas del Diezmo Nuevo as one of the original producers. Vino Naranja del Condado de Huelva was granted a protected geographical indication (PGI) of the European Union on March 14, 2017

Alas, It is not yet widely available outside of Europe, but for those lucky enough to be traveling to Spain in the near future—be sure and check it out (and bring us all a bottle)!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Dispatch from Valdepeñas

  By admin | January 17, 2020 - 10:48 am |
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The Valdepeñas DO (located in Castilla-La Mancha, Spain) is making some changes! The EU has recently approved a modification to the Pliego de Condiciones for the region, as announced and published in the January 9, 2020 edition of the Official Journal of the European Union.

The wines approved for production in the Valdepeñas DO make up a long list. Red, white, rosé, and sparkling wines are all produced—and most of these may be made in a range of styles relating to aging (including roble, crianza, reserva, and gran reserva), as well as in differing levels of sweetness (seco, semi-seco, semi-dulce, or dulce).

The red and rosé wines of the Valdepeñas DO are based on Tempranillo (Cencibel) and are also allowed to include Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha, Merlot, Petit Verdot, and/or Syrah. White wines are typically based on Verdejo and may also include Macabeo, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Airén, and/or Muscat (Moscatel).

Image via: http://vinosvaldepenas.com/en/#!/up

Image via: http://vinosvaldepenas.com/en/#!/up

Today’s story, however, applies to just one style of wine, defined on the Pliego de Condiciones as Tinto Tradicional. This “traditional” style of wine—once considered the signature version of the region’s wines—is light red in color (clarete) and produced using a mixture of red and white grapes. Previously, Tinto Tradicional was required to be produced using a minimum of 50% red grapes. With the modification, the new standard requires a minimum of 85% red grapes in the blend.

According to Florencio Rodríguez, Provincial Secretary of the Asociación Agraria Jóvenes Agricultores–Ciudad Real (ASAJA Ciudad Real), the change was needed to in order to modernize the image of the Valdepeñas DO and to keep up with the increasing demand for more flavorful wines with distinct varietal character.

The Valdepeñas DO is almost completely surround by the much larger La Mancha DO. The climate of Valdepeñas is warm/hot continental, and the region is quite dry—the mountains of the Sierra Morena located just to the west (defining the edge of the Meseta Central) provide a significant rain shadow.

The name of the region translates to “Valley of the Rocks” and refers to the region’s unique rock formations and rocky topsoil.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Ramona Valley Redux

  By admin | December 24, 2019 - 9:10 am | ,
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Photo credit: Jan Crocker

Photo credit: Jan Crocker

Today we have a guest post from SWE member Jan Crocker, CSW. Jan earned her Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) certification in 2016 and is currently studying for the Certified Specialist of Spirts (CSS).  Wish her luck!

Now entering its early adolescence as the United States’ 162nd American Viticultural Area (AVA), the Ramona Valley AVA continues to evolve. Not unlike a resilient young teen, though, the region has stared down a few challenges over the last couple of years, and made further progress in its growth.

In my first piece three years ago about the Ramona Valley, I’d mentioned that my husband and I had visited the region four times. Fast forward to fall 2019: We’ve now spent eight outings there, discovering new wineries, returning to those that are “old friends,” and taking in the wild beauty of its distinctive natural landscape.

Before Ramona Redux, however, here’s Ramona Recap: a primer of the region for anyone unfamiliar with it.

The third AVA in the South Coast “super AVA,” the Ramona Valley is in north-central San Diego County, attaining its designation in January 2006. At 33.1 north, it’s 25 miles west of the Pacific Ocean and roughly 35 miles northeast of San Diego. Its altitude – an average of 1,400 feet above sea level – provides for solid diurnal swings; wine grapes benefit from its chilly nighttime lows and toasty mid-day highs. Neighbor community Julian, home to several apple orchards, crisp autumns, and chilly winters with occasional snow, is 22 miles east of Ramona, and is 4,200 feet above sea level.

Photo credit: Jan Crocker

Photo credit: Jan Crocker

Granite, decomposed and rocks alike, is a trademark of Ramona terroir. Its tiny particles provide a subtle sparkle in the soil, and its boulders make their presence known on the likes of nearby 2,800-foot Mount Woodson and on the region’s numerous hills. The proprietors of Vineyard Grant James made that granite part of their winery’s identity, opting to showcase it for their entrance.

The AVA sits among the region’s neighboring mountains and hills, with Mount Woodson, the Cuyamaca Mountains, and Mount Palomar providing a rain shadow from ocean fog and chill. It’s home to a 14 ½-mile stretch of terrain with 89,000 arable acres over 139 square miles – and, according to the proprietors of Barrel 1 Winery and Poppaea Vineyard, “at least 11 different microclimates.”

On average, annual Ramona rainfall reaches a modest 16 inches. Winter evenings often drop into the low 30s, while the mercury often touches the low-to-mid nineties on summer days. (We’ll return to a historically high temperature that’ll likely remain for years in winegrowers’ and winemakers’ memories.)

Photo credit: David Crocker

Photo credit: David Crocker

Southern California’s “soft chaparral,” with ample quantities of sage and rosemary, is the story of Ramona’s flora – on display at the entrance to Woof ‘n Rose Winery. Indeed, those herbs find their way into nearly all of the 41 wines we’d sampled during our most recent stay. It’s little wonder that the components of Ramona’s semi-arid, rather warm Mediterranean climate make it an ideal home for robust, sun-loving grapes from the Rhone Valley and the southern half of Italy – as well as other, equally hardy varietals that prosper from good amounts of sunshine, heat, and breeze.

As for the toasty: The Ramona Valley sizzled in the early summer of 2017, with a 102-degree high the second week of July. (Anza-Borrego State Park, nearly 45 miles east of Ramona, reached 124 degrees that day.) About three weeks earlier, Ramona endured days of devastating heat, with one afternoon at 98. These days highlighted one of the toughest climactic challenges that local winegrowers had faced in years, as one winery lost its entire ’17 harvest. Another, according to Ramona Ranch Vineyards‘ co-owner Teri Kerns, “lost half of its grapes that year.”

Despite its recent challenges, the Ramona Valley AVA has made solid, significant growth since 2016. The region is now home to at least 60 bonded wineries, 22 with tasting rooms. Three new wineries have debuted since 2015: Barrel 1 Winery, Crystal Hill Vineyard, and Correcaminos Vineyard.

Photo credit: David Crocker

Photo credit: David Crocker

Two more concerns, albeit considerably lesser ones, surfaced in the Ramona Valley in fall 2019. On Oct. 28, the Sawday Fire torched 95 acres of terrain between Ramona and Julian; to the relief of the area’s residents and wineries, the flames stayed far from structures and vines alike. No matter: The area’as winery owners and staffers were on stand-by mode that day, ready to vacate their premises if necessary.

A day later, Ramona Ranch Vineyards’ co-owner/winemaker Micole Moore expressed his concern in his Oct. 29 post on Facebook. “Earthquake!” he posted regarding the shallow 3.6-magnitude that rattled Ramona that morning, its epicenter 27 miles northeast at Lake Henshaw.

Obviously, wildfires and quakes are part of southern California life. Still, to have two of Mother Nature’s trademark events of the state occur in as many days left Ramona, for a lack of a better phrase, a bit shaky.

Barrel 1, in the middle of Ramona’s Goose Valley, benefits from some of the region’s most moderated temperatures. “We’re in a valley, in a valley,” mentioned one of the winery’s directors. “That’s why it’s about 10 degrees cooler here than anywhere else.” To that point, Barrel 1 features three white wines in its regular tasting lineup: an opulent, intensely perfumed, luscious Muscat that undergoes complete fermentation, a Viognier aged in stainless steel, and another Viognier that’s matured in neutral oak – a deep-gold beauty that offers rich layers of tropical fruits, peach, tangerine, and honey.

Photo credit: David Crocker

Photo credit: David Crocker

The ascent of sun-friendly white varietals in the region, Ramona Ranch Vineyards’ Kerns pointed out, is the happy by-product of the recent success of the area’s wineries. She mentioned that the main obstacle for making white wines was the price tag of cold-fermentation machines, a formidable $100,000. With enough money saved over the years, winery owners were at last able to produce white grapes that took easily to the region’s terroir. Her “Burlesque” blend is ample proof of Ramona’s promise with whites, a vibrant, fragrant blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Muscat, and Symphony, a crossing of vinifera varieties Muscat of Alexandria and Grenache gris. The winery’s single-varietal Sauvignon Blanc struts its elegant acidity with help from the sturdy granite; it’s a beauty that’d likely impress fans of Bordeaux blanc – and it’s a personal favorite of mine.

In the Grasslands region, proprietor/winemaker Mike Kopp of Kohill Winery follows suit with his estate Sauvignon Blanc. Lemongrass, lime, white pepper, and a hint of sea salt offer a bright counterpoint to the subtly rich Semillon, 25 percent of his nuanced white Bordeaux.

Other Ramona Valley AVA wineries have found surprising success with varietals that’d initially seem to be ill suited for the hot summers and sturdy winds characteristic of the area. Veteran winemaker/proprietor Eric Metz of Lenora Winery, home of focused, bright reds and whites, crafts a fresh, flinty, and citrusy Chardonnay that’d delight fans of Burgundian whites, especially Chablis. Likewise, Vineyard Grant James’ Susanne Sapier’s Chardonnay is similarly vibrant and zesty, with limited aging in neutral oak.

Jan Crocker, CSW - our guest blogger. Photo credit: David Crocker

Jan Crocker, CSW – our guest blogger. Photo credit: David Crocker

Likewise, Albarino has found an excellent, albeit unlikely, home in Ramona. Renderings here lead the way with heady scents and flavors of peach, navel orange, tangerine, pineapple, mango, and passionfruit, with subtle acidity and minerality that bring the ripe flavors front and center. Marilyn Kahle, co-owner and winemaker at Woof ‘n Rose Winery, makes sure her compelling, complex Grasslands Albarino is varietally on point, although the valley’s warm climate and abundant sunshine provide for a different style that’s decidedly different from those from Rias Biaxas’ cool maritime climes. (On the red side of the story, she makes a gorgeous, opulent Alicante Bouschet that provides deep, succulent red and black fruits, baking spices, and a finish that’s long and astounding.)

As with our first extended trip to Ramona in August 2016, Lady Nature was surprisingly kind to us, with afternoons barely reaching 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Many late Septembers in the area deliver afternoons in the mid-90s, so wine fans opt for cool shade under the covered patios which nearly all wineries provide. Woof ‘n Rose, Ramona Ranch Vineyards, and Vineyard Grant James offered us that comfort, as well as stunning views of the region’s terroir.

 

Welcome to the world, Eastern Connecticut Highlands AVA!

  By admin | October 17, 2019 - 9:29 am |
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Map via: www.ttb.gov/wine/ava-map-explorer

Map via: www.ttb.gov/wine/ava-map-explorer

On Friday, October 11 2019, the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) of the United States announced the establishment of the Eastern Connecticut Highlands American Viticultural Area (AVA) via publication in the Daily Federal Register.

The newly-approved AVA is located in Hartford, New Haven, Tolland, Windham, New London, and Middlesex Counties in the state of Connecticut. The Eastern Connecticut Highlands AVA does not overlap any other established AVAs; it is, however, adjacent—and immediately to the north of—the multi-state Southeastern New England AVA (covering parts of Connecticut, Massachusetts, and Rhode Island).

The Eastern Connecticut Highlands AVA encompasses a total of approximately 1,246 square-miles of land and is home to 16 commercial vineyards and 115 acres/47 ha of vines (with 20.5 additional acres/8 additional hectares planned for the near future.

  • According to the AVA petition (originally accepted in August of 2016), the region is differentiated from the surrounding area in terms of topography, soils, and climate:
    • Topography: The area within the boundaries of the AVA sit atop a rock formation—known as the Iapetus Terrane—which is composed of metamorphic rocks that resist erosion. As a result, the area consists of hilly and mountainous terrain with elevations ranging from 200 to 1,000 feet/61 to 305 meters in elevation (as opposed to the broad, flatter lands the surround it).
    • Soils: The soils within the newly-defined AVA contain a large amount of lodgement till—material deposited by glaciers—and can be characterized as thick sandy-to-silty loam. These soils contain higher levels of iron, magnesium, and zinc, and lower levels of potassium than the surrounding areas.
    • Climate: The area within the new AVA has an average annual temperature that is similar to the surrounding areas; however, there are some significant differences, such as warmer overall temperatures during the growing season. In addition, the area has a later last-spring-frost date and earlier first-fall-frost date; these combine to make for a shorter growing season than most of the surrounding areas.

The Eastern Connecticut Highlands AVA is home to at least six bonded wineries, including Lebanon Green Vineyards, Arrigoni Winery, and Preston Ridge Vineyard. The Eastern Connecticut Highlands AVA will be effective as of November 12, 2019; at this time there will be a total of 246 AVAs in the United States.

Welcome to the world, Eastern Connecticut Highlands AVA!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Introducing Burbujas Riojanas—Rioja Bubbles

  By admin | October 1, 2018 - 1:22 am | ,
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Enquiring wine students most likely know that Cava—Spain’s well-known and widely-popular traditional method sparkling wines—can be produced in various parts of Spain. While the majority of Cava DO is produced in Catalonia, in reality the geographical indication for Cava spreads across eight regions of Spain, including La Rioja (and overlapping portions of the Rioja DOCa). While somewhat of a rarity, there are about five wineries that produce Cava within the confines of the Rioja DOCa. They have, in the past, been bottled under the Cava DO (and may continue to be).

However….as of 2019, consumers will be able to drink sparkling wines produced under the Rioja DOCa. That’s right…sparkling Rioja—known as Vino Espumoso de Calidad de Rioja DOCa—is now a thing. This is a big change in the rules and regulations concerning the wines of the Rioja DOCa; part of a wave of modernization and re-organization of the Rioja DOCa that has been brewing for the last few years. You may recall that last year (in 2017), single-village designations and single-vineyard designations were approved for wines produced under the Rioja DOCa.

Espumoso de Calidad de Rioja DOCa may be produced in white (blanco) and rosé (rosado/rosat) styles, and must be produced using the traditional method of sparkling wine production with the second fermentation occurring in the bottle. Any of the grape varieties approved for use in the still wines of the Rioja DOCa may be used in the production of these sparkling wines. The approved grapes include the following white varieties: Viura, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Verdejo, Malvasía, Garnacha Blanca, Tempranillo Blanca, Maturana Blanca, and Turruntés—and these red varieties: Tempranillo, Garnacha Tinta, Mazuelo, Graciano, and Maturana Tinta.

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Further rules and regulations concerning Vino Espumoso de Calidad de Rioja DOCa include the following:

  • The finished wines must contain between 11% and 13% alcohol by volume.
  • All wines using the Espumoso de Calidad de Rioja DOCa must be sur lie aged (in the bottle, following the second fermentation) for a minimum of 15 months.
  • Those wines labeled as “reserva” must be sur lie aged in the bottle for a minimum of 24 months
  • Those wines labeled as “gran reserva” must be sur lie aged in the bottle for a minimum of 36 months
  • These wines may only have a limited amount of sugar, and may only be produced in the following styles: Brut (less than 12 g/L of residual sugar), Extra Brut (less than 6 g/L of residual sugar), and Brut Nature (less than 3 g/L of sugar, no dosage allowed).
  • Sparkling rosés must contain a minimum of 25% red grapes
  • The term “Vino Espumoso Gran Añada” may be used for vintage wines with the vintage date stated on the label.

I am looking forward to trying a sparkling wine from the Rioja DOCa and will be on the lookout for one beginning in 2019. Let us know if you find one!

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles – SWE’s Director of Education and Certification –  jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Conference Preview 2018: NZ SB

  By admin | May 16, 2018 - 11:44 am |
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SB and Aucktalnd, NZ

SB and Auckland, NZ

Today we have a preview of a session to be presented during SWE’s 42nd Annual Conference, to be held on August 15–17, 2018 in the Finger Lakes Region of New York State. Our guest author is Christine Dalton, CSW, who tells us about her upcoming session entitled Cat Pee By Any Other Name Would Smell As Sweet: Understanding Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.

Pick a wine-world underdog, wine that has found success under seemingly insurmountable odds. Perhaps you think of Ribiera Sacra’s delicate Mencías, made from vineyards that were left for dead during the country’s political turmoil and resurrected, only to be re-planted on vertigo-inducing slopes. Maybe your mind goes to the Canary Islands, where vines huddle for shelter amongst powerful winds and Sharpie-colored volcanic earth. Or perhaps you give a nod to the vineyards of Salta, sitting closer to the heavens than us oenophiles on Earth. Though all feats of viticultural wizardry, my choice is perhaps less obvious, purely because it is so obvious. This wine takes up large plots of real estate on grocery store shelves and has earned a reserved parking space on most by the glass lists. Yet even with this success, I consider Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, in all its turquoise- and green-labeled glory, as a most fascinating, yet unlikely champion of the hearts and taste buds of wine lovers the world over.

New Zealand's Coromandel Peninsula

New Zealand’s Coromandel Peninsula

Consider its origin story. New Zealand is very much a New World wine country. Vines were first planted in the early 1800s, even before it was founded as a British colony in 1853, but New Zealand didn’t find its wine footing for over a century. If we zero in on Marlborough specifically, the first Sauvignon Blanc vines that brought the region oenological fame were not planted until 1975. (To put that in context, California, another infant in the long history of winemaking, was already winning international recognition at the Judgment of Paris around the same time.) Before Montana (now Brancott Estate) planted these original vines, the consensus was that grapes could not ripen on the chilly South Island. How wrong that wisdom was, as we’ve all seen in the expeditious rise of this little experiment.

We must also consider the terroir. New Zealand sits alone in an isolated corner of the Pacific Ocean. Its closest neighbor is Australia, which lies approximately 2,000 miles away, and it is consistently pummeled by the maritime breezes bounding off the icy Tasman sea. The islands receive intense bouts of sun laced with some of the highest ultraviolet rays in the world. To intensify the extreme natural circumstances further, the country rests squarely on the boundary between the Australian and Pacific tectonic plates, which creates both geologically diverse soils and up to fifteen thousand earthquakes per year.

Vineyards in Marlborough

Vineyards in Marlborough

Then we arrive at the wine itself. Let us jump in our time machines, travel back a few hundred years and pour a goblet of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc to the most esteemed winemakers of the Loire Valley. Would they recognize it as the grape born of their region? Or would they cast it off as a bastardized version of their time-tested style? The wine’s unique aroma and flavor profile is another enigma of its success. The novice wine drinker may not clamor for flavors of grass and bell pepper, though I doubt she would be horrified by reading these notes on the back of a label. But sweaty, stalky and punctuated by cat pee? It is difficult to imagine the success of a wine marked by these traits, yet here we are, transfixed by this wine from the Land of the Long White Cloud.

Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc is an oxymoron. It transfixes me in its unconventional conventionality. It is born of a grape known across continents, climates and time, yet is entirely idiosyncratic. It is a 20th century “invention” nudged on by a risk-taking winery, but primarily by Mother Nature herself. There were no crossings, no hybrids, no labs; there was just a revelatory eruption of pure New Zealand flavor.

What gives our lovable underdog its edge? What allows the Sauvignon Blanc grape to thrive at the end of the earth? What creates the complexity and concentration of its unique feline flavors? Scientists have a few ideas.

Queenstown, New Zealand

Queenstown, New Zealand

Winemakers and researchers have been working to unwrap its riddles since the early 2000s. The aptly titled New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc Programme is a collaboration between The Universities of Auckland and Lincoln, NZ Winegrowers and local winery partners. They have delved into the science of Sauvignon Blanc and have gained a better understanding of the chemical compounds that make up the sensory attributes of this wine. They have looked at how the unique Marlborough terroir—the cool breezes, the intense sunlight, the native yeasts and soils—creates a Sauvignon Blanc expression different than anywhere else in the world.

Their research has also revealed how much more Marlborough has to offer. To those who peg the region and its wines as one-trick-ponies, taste the differences within. Marlborough’s diversity lies in the baseball-sized river rocks of the northern Wairau Valley. These rocks absorb the sun’s powerful rays and ripen grapes that are rife with ruby red grapefruit and exotic passionfruit. Or try an intensely herbaceous expression from the windblown Awatere, which yields wines with crunchy capsicum and tomato leaves. For a revelatory treat, try an age-worthy example, like Brancott Estate’s Chosen Rows. It would be hard to imagine the Sauvignon Blanc experts of the Old World turning up their noses at a wine vibrating with so much energy and finesse.

Punakaiki,New Zealand

Punakaiki,New Zealand

Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc is an underdog that has already proven its success in its few decades of existence, though the region is just beginning to reveal all it has to offer. At this years’ Society of Wine Educators Conference, my mission is to inject a renewed fascination in Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc into the palates and imaginations of all who attend my seminar, Cat Pee By Any Other Name Would Smell As Sweet: Understanding Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. We will explore the findings of the research program to better understand the wine’s unique aromas and flavors, delve into the differences between its varying subregions and taste the fine examples that have resulted from this heightened understanding of Marlborough and its beloved Sauvignon Blanc.

Christine Dalton, CSW

Christine Dalton, CSW

Christine Dalton is a member of Pernod Ricard Winemakers’ International Graduate Wine Ambassador Program, based in Southern California. As representative of the Pernod Ricard wine portfolio, she has spent time learning and working vintage in Rioja, Spain, Sonoma, California, the Barossa Valley, Australia and Marlborough, New Zealand. Originally from the Washington D.C. metro area, she previously wrote for Wine Spectator magazine as an Assistant Editor, and volunteered at the Astor Center at Astor Wines & Spirits in New York City.

She began formal wine training with an introductory wine course at Cornell University while working toward a dual degree in Government and American Studies. She is a Certified Specialist of Wine with the SWE and also holds a WSET Advanced with Distinction certification.

Christine’s session, Cat Pee By Any Other Name Would Smell As Sweet: Understanding Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, will be offered on Wednesday, August 15, 2018 at 10:30 am as part of the 42nd Annual Conference of the Society of Wine Educators to be held in the Finger Lakes Region of New York State.

Bailey’s and Beyond: The Irish Cream PGI

  By admin | February 28, 2018 - 11:04 am | ,
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Everyone I know loves Bailey’s Irish Cream. In coffee, on the rocks, or in a fanciful cocktail such as the Mudslide, Girl Scout Cookie, or Nutty Irishman—it is just plain delicious.

Bailey’s Irish Cream was the first Irish cream liqueur on the market.  It was created in the early 1970’s by Gilbey’s of Ireland, a large distillery borne out of a gin distillery founded in 1857 by Sir Walter Gilbey.  The name “Bailey’s” was inspired by the name of a local restaurant owned by John Chesterman, who gave permission to use the name. The distillery—Gilbey’s of Ireland—eventually became a division of the even-larger International Distillers & Vintners, which eventually merged in with Diageo (the current producer of Bailey’s).

The Bailey’s brand of Irish cream liqueur may have been the first, and it may be the best-known, but it is certainly not the only Irish cream on the liquor store shelf—other brands include Carolan’s, Cremór, Kerrygold, Molly’s, and St. Brendan’s. Give one of these others a try, and you may find you fall in love with Irish cream liqueur all over again.

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As of 2015, Irish Cream is a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) and recognized as a unique product of Ireland. Irish Cream may be produced anywhere in Ireland (including the Republic of Ireland and the country of Northern Ireland), and may not be produced anywhere else.

Irish Cream is classified as a liqueur under the rules of the European Union, and as such must have a minimum alcohol by volume of 15% and a minimum of 100 g/L of sugar (approximately equivalent to 10%).  Irish cream liqueurs vary in terms of alcohol and sugar, but many are in the range of 17% to 20% alcohol by volume and 20% to 25% sugar.

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In addition to meeting the EU standards for liqueurs, the PGI for Irish Cream requires the following:

  • Irish Dairy Cream: Irish Cream liqueur must contain a minimum of 10% milk fat (which does not sound very appealing), all of which must be from cream produced from milk produced in Ireland. Ireland is known for the quality of its dairy products, and many top-bred Irish dairy cows create the “cream” in Irish cream.
  • Irish Whiskey: Irish cream is required to contain at least 1% by volume Irish whiskey. The remainder of the alcohol content may be from any type of alcohol of agricultural origin (and in most cases is likely to be neutral spirits).
  • Specific Production Techniques: Ireland claims to have created the technique of creating shelf-stable cream liqueurs. Two techniques are allowed for use in the production of Irish Cream. One technique—known as the single-stage method—involves mixing together the spirits, sugar, cream, flavorings and emulsifiers and sending the entire batch through a process of homogenization until the average particle size of the cream globule is reduced to less than 5 microns, preferably less than 2 microns. This will allow the liqueur to remain emulsified. The second method—known as the two-stage method—involves homogenizing the cream (to the same micron-size standard) first and then mixing it into the remainder of the ingredients (sprits, sugars, flavorings, and emulsifiers).
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There are few specifications as to the stabilizers, colorings, emulsifiers, and flavorings that may be used in Irish cream liqueur beyond those typical for food safety, additives, and advertising. While many flavors are produced—Strawberries-and-Cream! Pumpkin spice! Espresso! Salted Caramel! Chocolate-Cherry!—the original Bailey’s Irish Cream Liqueur is reported to be flavored with Irish whiskey, Irish Cream, and chocolate or cocoa. The formulas are typically considered closely guarded secrets, but other flavors may include a bit of honey, caramel, vanilla, almond, coffee, or cinnamon.

The production requirements and product analysis do not make the delicious and delectable Irish Cream liqueur sound very appealing, so we’ll end with a few tasting notes. For starters, here is the official tasting note for Bailey’s Irish Cream: “the perfect marriage of fresh, premium Irish dairy cream, the finest spirits, aged Irish whiskey, and a unique chocolate blend.”  Other often-used descriptions include velvety, creamy, smooth notes of toffee, burnished gold, and honeyed memories of the Emerald Isle. That’s more like it.

References/for more information:

 

 

Guest Blogger: Southwest Sojourn Part 3: Arizona Adventures

  By admin | February 17, 2018 - 11:30 am |
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Today we have a guest post—the third and final in a series—by an author we have all gotten to know by the nom de plume of Candi, CSW. Click here to read the first article in the series, as Candi takes us on a tour of the Grand Canyon, and click here for the second stage as she makes her way through New Mexico. Today, Candi takes us on the final leg of her southwest sojourn with a trip through Arizona—with plenty of local wine along the way!

It was time to leave Santa Fe with good memories and ideas for our next trip there. Such a great destination that we were glad we allowed four nights for exploration. On to the final stop: Scottsdale, Arizona.

We had our longest drive of the trip from Santa Fe to Scottsdale. But it was mostly interstate highways with minimal traffic. We took our time, allowed frequent rest and stretch breaks, and enjoyed the view as scenery transitioned from canyons and mesas to deeper red rocks and pure desert. I couldn’t help but wonder if Saguaro cactus is used for margaritas, like the Prickly Pear of the Yellowstone area.

We had traveled to and through the Phoenix area many times for business and family visits. And, while we have enjoyed the Sedona area as a vacation stop, it seemed that Scottsdale had more of a resemblance to Santa Fe. The area offered an opportunity for more museum exploration and shopping. And, once I found that Scottsdale now has a wine trail, the decision was made.

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Many Arizona wineries are located in remote areas of the state, such as Cochise County. Cochise appears to be one of the southernmost counties, with the Mexican border to the south. (For more details and another perspective, see a 2016 SWE blog post titled “Arizona Wines are gaining recognition — Imbibe and take notice!“) Some wineries have tasting rooms in Cochise County. I can see, however, that it would make sense to take some tasting rooms to the populous areas. Scottsdale appears to have the demographics to be a great location for an urban area tasting room.

Multiple wineries had already come to the same conclusion as I did about Scottsdale. The Scottsdale Wine Trail now features five winery tasting rooms/wine bars. I suppose an ambitious sort would be able to walk to all of them for tasting in a single day. That’s not our style, and the trip planner (me) had to account for temperatures of 90+ degrees, arid weather, and sun. Another opportunity for wise pacing. We chose to allow the morning for a museum, and the afternoon for two wine tastings.

We had checked into our hotel on a Friday evening. Quiet in-room dinner, a very good night’s sleep, then great morning coffee. A full Saturday on the agenda. The weather gods had smiled upon us; temperatures in the 80s to about 90. Cooler than expected equated to walk-friendly and wine-friendly.

We found that, unlike Santa Fe, free, underground, shaded parking is readily available in Scottsdale. Secured our shaded, delightfully cool space. Short walk to the Museum of the West, an affiliate of the Smithsonian. This museum was not widely mentioned in mainstream travel guides, so it may qualify as another “hidden gem”. And a valuable gem it is.

Given that we visited the Museum on a Saturday, I was concerned about crowding. Not at all. Very quiet, plenty of helpful docents. Exhibits of, it seemed, anything and everything Western culture-related. Paintings, pottery, ceramics, wildlife. All of these were well-done and enjoyable.

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But two exhibitions were just outstanding. One featured Western clothing, leather goods, and accessories such as spurs and saddles. All of these were items that either were or could be actually used by ranchers, cowboys, law enforcement, etc. And the beautiful leather tooling! Some of the saddles struck me as works of art.

The second standout featured a vast collection of movie posters and film history. OK. This sounds lightweight and even a bit immature, but the depth and breadth of the display had me taking notes. We have since viewed a western movie or two that have demonstrated great acting, scenery, and a touch of history. Before we knew it, we had spent more than 3 hours exploring the Museum.

Meanwhile, the wine tasting rooms had begun the afternoon hours. We left the Museum of the West a bit reluctantly, wearing our stickers so we could get back in if time allowed. But two tasting rooms were calling, and one must have priorities.

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Old Town Scottsdale, a brief walk from the Museum, features shopping, dining, and the Wine Trail. We did a quick reconnaissance of the shops; nothing compelling for us. On to the all-important afternoon stops.

Airidus Wine Company combines a tasting room and wine bar. The wine is produced in Willcox (Cochise County). Five wines of your choice per tasting; a one-bottle purchase of the higher-end bottlings waives the tasting fee. Fair enough. My tasting included Malvasia Blanca, Rose’ of Mourvèdre and Grenache, Grenache, Malbec and Petite Sirah. Service was excellent, with plenty of information volunteered in response to my geeky questions. My only criticism: while my palate is still developing, I clearly recognized that the Petite Sirah was corked. All of the other wines were purchase-worthy.

But it seemed to me that the reds were the most attractive. Overall impressions: deep, compelling, long finish, oak, varietally-correct fruits. So this frugal soul was drawn to not one, but two bottles. Malbec and Grenache. Plus 2 bottles of their version of casual wines, the Tank Blends. One white (Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay and Malvasia Blanca). One red (Malbec, Mourvèdre, Syrah and Montepulciano). Blends, indeed!

Map of the Scottsdale Wine Trail via: http://www.scottsdalewinetrail.com/

Map of the Scottsdale Wine Trail via: http://www.scottsdalewinetrail.com/

Carlson Creek is another tasting room with wine bar. This venue was very busy, but Wendy, the sole server, was efficient, friendly, informative, and kept moving. She gets credit for noting and understanding my CSW pin. She returned to us frequently so we could learn from each other. What fun!

With a choice of 12 wines, narrowing the field was a challenge. We sampled Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, a Rose’ of Grenache, Sangiovese, Mourvèdre, a GSM blend and Syrah. Okay, maybe I didn’t narrow the field too well; but, I had my trusty designated driver. I was walking a short distance back to the car. I kept hydrated. It was my last wine stop of the trip. I was relaxed and enjoying myself. Did I mention I was on vacation?

Decisions, decisions. The whites were enjoyable, and I can see how a white-only afficianado would have several options. But we enjoy whites, Rose’ (technically a red, but always a bridge wine to me), and reds. The reds of Carlson Creek were even more appealing to me than those of Airidus. Complexity, balance, evolving-over-minutes. Food pairings already in the mind. Evoking memories of a warm to hot climate.

Two bottles waived the tasting. Not. A. Problem. After deliberation, wine one was Mourvèdre, because of the attractive leather aromas and flavors. Could this have been a flashback to the exhibition at the Museum of the West? Possible.

Wine two, Rule of Three as a well-done GSM and for potential food-friendliness. Wine three, our favorite, the Syrah. The deep, intense, varietally-correct Syrah. Yes. If you are a Sryah lover and visit, please, please try this wine.

More water, another short walk, wine returned safely to car in cool space. Yet more water and another short walk to pick up the takeout we’d ordered. The dining establishments were not yet busy and we wanted to exit before the Saturday night crowd began. Dinner secured, all missions accomplished.

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Our final evening of the vacation. Plenty of time to begin packing and organizing for the final day of driving. Hydration, hydration, hydration. And, when we were ready, a great meal courtesy of Cowboy Ciao. This place had come highly recommended; they were correct. One of the best chopped salads I’ve ever had, truffle macaroni and cheese, and a wine pairing of Vivac Sangiovese.

Another good night’s sleep. On the drive home, I began to reflect on the many things that went well on our trip. Key success factors, to use business-speak. Pacing ourselves. Blending culture, shopping, moderate walking, wine tasting. Recognizing when it was wise to end the day and elevate feet. Stretch breaks on the road. Agenda to minimize crowds and noise. These may not be critical items for go-go-go extroverts. But they are for, ahem, aging introverts.

What about the common themes of Southwest wine? Based on my initial impressions, of course. Further study is clearly indicated. How’s that for justification of already considering what to do on the next trip?

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Shared characteristics we experienced were young wineries, many varietals per winery, more reds than whites. Maybe these vintners are still trying to establish a strategy of which grapes grow best, and then plan to focus on those. Maybe not. We also noted more reds than whites, which may equate to warm, arid climate. Pleasant, approachable whites. Clearly more compelling reds. If I had to find comparable areas, the Sierra Foothills for the New World and Spain for Old World would suffice.

Now, we have the post-trip enjoyment of seeing whether our decisions in the short-term reward us as the drinking windows begin to open. For some reason, I am optimistic.

Southwest Salute’, Cheers, and Happy New Year!