Wine, Wit, and Wisdom

Today we have a conference preview from Nora Z. Favelukes. Nora has been one of top-rated speakers at SWE’s Annual Conferences over the last few years, and we are thrilled to have her back again in 2019. In this post, Nora tells us about her amazing adventures in Argentina—and the wines that she’ll be sharing with her very lucky audience during her session “Treasure Hunting in Argentina: Looking for New and Exciting Wines”—to be held this August in Washington DC as part of SWE’s 43^rd Annual Conference.

“For the past 30 years, I have followed the Argentine wine industry as it emerged on the world stage. It evolved from selling all their production in the domestic market to looking-out, emulating international wine styles; to looking inwards, with a fuller understanding of their own regions and terroirs. Today, modern pioneers of this new movement are creating new wine regions in the North, South, East, and West of Argentina with a renewed passion and vision.

Every way you go, producers and winemakers are crisscrossing frontiers in an explosion of creativity expanding into new altitudes, soil mapping, adopting sustainable and biodynamic practices, experimenting with micro-terroirs, Nomblot eggs and micro-vinifications. We cannot discount the influence of new local producers coming to the wine business with open and fresh eyes; new joint ventures between European, American and local wineries; the influence of foreign investments and the impact of the French, Italian and American flying winemakers.

In 2018, Maria Laura Ortiz, renowned Argentine Sommelier and Wine Consultant and I, partnered in a new joint venture, GO TO WINE to assist premium quality South American wineries to export worldwide. In preparation for our upcoming seminar at SWE’s Annual Conference, Maria Laura and I have hunted for those unique treasures that best represent the diversity of the Argentine wine industry of today.”

The Cliffs near Costa & Pampa

Adventures East—South Atlantic Ocean Wines 

On the Shores of the Unthinkable: Costa & Pampa Albariño—Chapadmalal, Buenos Aires: Located 211 miles south of Buenos Aires, Argentina’s capital city and four miles west from the South Atlantic Ocean, Costa & Pampa’s first vintage was release in 2014. The climate, unlike that of mountainous areas, is humid and cold; ideal for short cycle varieties resulting in fresher and delicate wines, with great aromatic complexity and good volume.

“In Chapadmalal, I found not only a region that is geographically similar to that of Champagne in France, but also a farmer willing to take a chance on this amazing experiment who leased 30 acres of his land for us to convert into a vineyard” stated Daniel Pi, Trapiche’s Head Winemaker.

The coastal landscape of Patagonia

Coastal Patagonia’s Only Winery: WAPISA Pinot Noir—San Javier, Rio Negro: “Wapisa” is the indigenous Patagonian word for “whale” who frequent the nearby the coast of our vineyards. Located just 12 miles from the Atlantic Ocean on the banks of the Río Negro, Wapisa is the only winery in this Argentine Patagonian terroir, which bears strong similarities to Bordeaux.

“When we arrived in this area, the land was barren and we had to start from scratch” said Patricia Ortiz, Wapisa’s owner “What started as a gamble, today is a great project with an incredible team that continuously pushes us to keep growing.” 

Wapisa is a proud Partner in Conservation of the  California Ocean Alliance.

La Pampa landscape

Adventures South—Wines of Patagonia’s continental, arid climate

The Raw and Untapped Potential of La Pampa: Bodega del Desierto Desierto Pampa Cabernet Franc—Alto Valle del Rio Colorado, La Pampa: In 2001, when a team of Argentine entrepreneurs with a budding interest in wine, saw the raw and untapped potential of the Alto Valle del Rio Colorado (635 miles southwest of Buenos Aires City) decided just there and then, to become the first wine producers in this region. Their vision was complemented by a qualified and courageous group of experts – all with the same pioneering spirit.

“The Pampean terroir is ideal for Cabernet Franc due to the extreme dryness, the constant wind and the dramatic thermal amplitude” stated Sebastian Cavagnaro, Bodega del Desierto’s Chief Winemaker.

Early frost in the Patagonia Extreme

Patagonia Extreme: Bodega Otronia 45 Rugientes White Blend—Colonia Sarmiento, Chubut: Located in Sarmiento, Chubut at 45°30′ south latitude and 1,150 miles south of Buenos Aires, Bodega Otronia is a pioneer in developing extreme vineyards in the world. Founded in 2011, this state-of-the-art winery will release its first vintage this coming Fall. Due to the frosts during the vegetative cycle, 62-mile winds and the cold and semi-arid climate, Otronia’s 123 acres of vineyards are disease-free and Organic Certified.

“Because of the unique characteristics of our terroir, our wines develop elegant complex aromas with natural acidity and great phenolic maturity” summarized Máximo Rocca, Bodega Otronia’s Commercial Director.

Adventures Northwest—High Altitude Andean Mountain Wines: The Land of the Iconic Torrontés

At the top of the Cafayate Valley

Bodegas Etchart Cafayate Gran Linaje Torrontés—Cafayate Valley, Salta: Founded in 1850 in what was then an unexplored region, Bodegas Etchart is the oldest operating winery in the Cafayate Valley and, the leading producer of Torrontés in the country. At 5,600 feet above sea level, deep sandy soils and extreme thermal amplitude this unique variety to Argentina thrives. “We are constantly working on improving the quality of our wines. From blending wines with same grapes sourced from old and younger vineyards, fermenting with wild yeasts, lowering the alcohol content and increasing the aging potential of our white wines” said Victor Marcantoni, Bodegas Etchart’s Head Winemaker.

Adventures West: Wines of the Andes Mountains

Digging in Gualtallary

It’s the Soil that Makes the Difference: Doña Paula Selección de Bodega Malbec—Gualtallary (Uco Valley, Mendoza): Doña Paula in Mendoza is the test area for a unique study: the Terroir-in-Focus Research Program dedicated to the study of the influence of the climate and soils on Malbec. Founded in 1997, Doña Paula rapidly became one of Argentina’s leading producers and exporters of Estate bottled wines worldwide.  

“The best micro-vinifications are the ones with grapes sourced in Gualtallary from limestone and rocky soils” said Doña Paula’s Chief Winemaker, Marcos Fernandez ,It produces intense wines, with great minerality and sharp tannins.”

Syrah and Garnacha Vineyards

Unusual Blends: Proemio Wines Syrah/Garnacha—Russel, Mendoza: Marcelo Bocardo, third generation winemaker and the descendant of a traditional Italian immigrant family to Mendoza founded Proemio in 2001. This small boutique winery is dedicated to the production of wines that reflect their authentic geographical identity through sustainable and organic agriculture.

“When I purchased this vineyard ten years ago” stated Marcelo Bocardo, Proemio’s Winemaker and Owner. “I found 17 acres planted with both Syrah and Garnacha. I decided there and then to co-ferment the grapes and make this unique blend where the spiciness of the Syrah is enhanced by the vibrant freshness and acidity of the Garnacha.” 

Andeluna Cabernet Franc—Gualtallary (Uco Valley, Mendoza): From its inception in 2003 and under the leadership of the Barale family, Andeluna was designed to become one of Argentina’s top producers. Their vineyards at 4,265 feet above sea level in Gualtallary, Uco Valley – the most sought after wine region in Mendoza – its rocky soils, great thermal amplitude, and sustainable practices under the careful guidance of Manuel Gonzalez Bals it’s Chief Winemaker and the consulting of  Hans Vinding-Diers.

Snow-capped Andes Mountains and vineyards

“I particularly like the area of ​​Gualtallary” stated Manuel, “The loamy-sandy-stony soils and climate, together with the low pH, thick skins and small berries intensify the aromatic expression, freshness, structure and elegance of our wines.”

About the speaker: Nora Z. Favelukes is a pioneer of premium South American wines in the United States. As an influencer, skilled spokesperson, moderator, negotiator and a natural diplomat with years of international experience, Ms. Favelukes understands the inner workings and complexities of the US, South American and European wine markets and is the president of QW US Market Experts, a wine and spirits consultancy. She is also a noted speaker specializing in European and South American wines and the US Wine Market.

Nora’s session, “Treasure Hunting in Argentina—Looking for New and Exciting Wines” will be held on Friday, August 16 at 4:45 pm as part of the Society of Wine Educator’s 43rd Annual Conference, to be held in Washington DC.

Are you a conference speaker that would like to provide a preview of your session? Contact Jane A. Nickles at jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

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Today we have a post from Richard Leahy, a Charlottesville, Virginia-based wine professional. Richard will be leading a session entitled “Virginia Wine: 400 Years Young and World-Class” as part of SWE’s 43rd Annual Conference, to be held this August in Washington DC. Read on as Richard tells us about the little-known history of Virginia wine.

The “Acte Twelve” of the Jamestown Assembly in 1619 mandated the planting of at least ten European grapevines per household, so we are now moving in to Virginia’s fifth century of documented winegrowing.

Twenty five years ago Virginia wine was little more than a curiosity. In 2012, Steven Spurrier, the renowned British wine critic for Decanter, said “My favorite North American wine region is Virginia, because it makes the kinds of wines I like to have a second glass of.” Richard Leahy, author of Beyond Jefferson’s Vines, the definitive book on Virginia wine, will take you through highlights of the Virginia wine story, and with a curated tasting, show you the diversity and quality of Virginia wine as it moves into its fifth documented history.

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This session will highlight some of the fascinating milestones in Virginia wine history, explain the many natural challenges of viticulture in this climate, and review the most popular wine grapes of the state. We’ll explore the ways that Virginia wines demonstrate the state’s unique terroir and take a glimpse into the future of Virginia wine.

You’ll enjoy Chardonnay that is more like that of Burgundy than California and Meritage with the unique spice and violets of Petit Verdot. Attendees will be able to taste why Cabernet Franc has undergone a renaissance in style and quality as Virginia’s most consistent red grape, and enjoy the freshness and balance of local Sauvignon Blanc. (And there’s more!)

After enjoying this class, you’ll be well-prepared to not only enjoy Virginia wines, but to show them (and your new knowledge) off to friends. After all, if Virginia wine was Thomas Jefferson’s dream, let’s toast that 200 years later we can enjoy it today!

Richard’s session— Virginia Wine: 400 Years Young and World-Class—will be held on Thursday, August 15 (2019) at 10:30 am as part of the Society of Wine Educators’ 43rd Annual Conference, to be held in Washington DC.

About the presenter: Richard Leahy is a wine professional based in Charlottesville, Virginia and coordinates the conference program for the Eastern Winery Exposition, the largest wine industry trade show east of the Rockies. He has been writing about wines of Virginia and the East since 1986, and in May 2012 his book Beyond Jefferson’s Vines, the definitive book on Virginia wine, was published to high praise from reviewers and is now available on Amazon.com in a revised second edition. Richard is a member of the American Wine Society and the Circle of Wine Writers, and also has a website and blog (richardleahy.com) focused on wines of the East.

Are you a conference speaker that would like to provide a preview of your session? Contact Jane A. Nickles at jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Today we have a post from Ben Coffelt, CSW. Ben will leading a session entitled “Tiki Time” as part of SWE’s 43rd Annual Conference, to be held this August in Washington DC. Read on as Ben tells us about a very important part of Tiki culture—the history of the Tiki mug.

Tiki mugs used by LA Speakeasy. Photo by Vincent Navarro, via Wikimedia Commons.

The Tiki mug is one of the most beloved and defining aspects of Tiki culture. In the heyday of the Tiki craze, mugs could be found in almost every home in America. Where did the practice of serving elaborate tropical drinks begin and how have they re-emerged?  While some would characterize Tiki mugs as ceramic glasses specifically depicting tikis (Polynesian idols), for the purposes of our brief history, we will be referring to all mugs used to serve Tiki drinks as “Tiki mugs.”

The first ceramic mugs were used by Trader Vic at his eponymous restaurant in the 1940s. While the original motivation for using ceramic mugs is unknown, Tiki expert and author of “The Book of Tiki”, Sven A. Kirsten, points to an evolution of the increasingly elaborate presentation of drinks at Polynesian restaurants at the time. One of the first mugs was used for the Samoan Fog Cutter and the first vessel to feature a representation of a Tiki was on a drink called the Tiki Bowl. These mugs helped contribute to the sense of escapism that Tiki bars channeled. Fueled by an increasing American interest in Polynesia and Hawaii, the mug would grow from this humble start.

Photo via Los Angeles Islander Life Magazine, circa 1960 (public domain)

In 1955, Bob Bryant, a former bartender at Trader Vic’s, opened Tiki Bob’s in San Francisco. This is most likely the birthplace of the first mug to be done in a Tiki idol style. Soon, other Polynesian and Tiki restaurants were having their own mugs made in a greater variety of shapes and done as tikis, coconuts, bamboo, or volcanoes. By the 1960s large manufacturers, such as Otagiri Mercantile Company, began producing them on a commercial scale. Restaurants had their logos added and used them as souvenirs for guests. The trend became so popular that Holland Mold Inc made ceramic molds for people to use at home to create their own Tiki mugs. They often became as important, if not more so, than the drink they held.

By the mid-1970s, Tiki was out of fashion as were the drinking vessels associated with it. Once cherished mugs ended up discarded or donated to thrift stores. Others gathered dust, forgotten on shelves or in cabinets. Classic bars and restaurants closed. Tiki was viewed as old fashioned and discos and nightclubs became the norm.

As Tiki re-emerged in the 1990s it was as a celebrated mid-century aesthetic. Décor and mugs were viewed more as art and pop art pieces, than simple decorations. Vintage mugs became sought after collectibles. Enthusiasts and collectors scoured flea markets for lost gems. The internet revolutionized the ability to hunt down hard to find mugs and offered more information on producers and history than ever before. Ebay currently has 8,000 mugs listed for sale. The website Ooga-Mooga! allow collectors to publicly display their collections and connect with others who are willing to trade or sell mugs.

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Now the mug has returned not just at dedicated Tiki restaurants, but many bars will feature one or two Tiki drinks in themed glassware. Contemporary Tiki bars like Three Dots and a Dash in Chicago and Latitude 29 in New Orleans, feature modern, custom takes on mugs or recreations of classic designs often made by Tiki Farm or Bosko. Beautifully constructed cocktails served in elaborately designed ceramicware are perfect for Instagram. Last fall, approximately one thousand people lined up at Disneyland to try to obtain a new limited release. The mug has come full circle back to a place of prominence in American bar culture.

Ben’s session—Tiki Time—will be held on Wednesday, August 14 (2019) at 10:30 am as part of the Society of Wine Educators’ 43rd Annual Conference, to be held in Washington DC.

Are you a conference speaker that would like to provide a preview of your session? Contact Jane A. Nickles at jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Metekhi Cathedral

Today Jim Laughren, CWE brings us a preview of a session to be presented at SWE’s 43rd Annual Conference, to be held on August 14th through 16th in Washington, DC. Read on as Jim tells us about the land (and wines) of the Republic of Georgia.

There is a land far, far away, nestled in the bosom of mountains high and rugged.  A land connecting kingdoms and nations east and west, it’s valleys once a crossroads of ancient trade routes. Hawks soar among the snow-capped peaks, and crystalline waters tumble and swirl through channels of rock and stone. A land whose hillsides are covered with vines and whose people are both warm and fierce. Silks and tapestries, sugar and spice, teas and porcelain and gold and ivory for countless centuries passed along its roads and rivers, wending in caravans from village to village.

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There is a land far, far away, coveted by many, its position well placed, home to a proud and spirit-filled people. A land invaded countless times, by kings and potentates, by czars and chieftains, by shahs and sheiks and sultans, a land that has been ruled by many even while those born to it planned and fought and strove to throw off the unwelcome yokes of conquest. A land where the earth is like unto a mother, the azure skies a cap of glory on high, hidden monasteries the custodians of faith and future.

There is a land far, far away, called after the sixth generation of Noah, a land old and beloved to its own long even before the days of Mesopotamia, before the ziggurats of Eridu, before Pharaoh walked the banks of the Nile, a land of small shelters and peaceful villages, a land where wine was made within the embrace of the earth, stored and shared much as it is today. A land whose people would be welcomed and greeted afar, for they carried with them the secret of wine, of nurturing the vineyards and bringing forth the magical drink.

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You are welcome to join us as we explore this special land and its many gifts. You are welcome to taste the wines, made as they have been for millennia, from grapes with names unknown to most, with flavors most intriguing, and perhaps, if we are fortunate, with the same joy and appreciation as the defenders of this land, the creators of ghvino themselves feel towards this everlasting gift.

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Jim’s session—Georgia on my Mind—will be held on Friday, August 16 (2019) at 4:45 pm as part of the Society of Wine Educators’ 43rd Annual Conference, to be held in Washington DC.

About the speaker: Jim Laughren, CWE, is a wine writer and educator, a former importer and distributor, and the author of “50 Ways to Love Wine More: Adventures in Wine Appreciation” and “A Beer Drinker’s Guide to Knowing and Enjoying Fine Wine.” He has recently returned from what he terms a “pilgrimage” to the Republic of Georgia and will be sharing impressions, photographs, and, of course, wines from his visit. On August 15^th, from 6:30 to 7:30 pm he will also be appearing at Kramerbooks, 1517 Connecticut Ave NW, Washington DC for a signing of his book, “50 Ways to Love Wine More.”

Are you a conference speaker that would like to provide a preview of your session? Contact Jane A. Nickles at jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org