Wine, Wit, and Wisdom

The harbor of Desenzano del Garda (on the southwestern edge of Lake Garda)

Today we have a guest post authored by Susannah Gold, DipWSET, CSS, CSW. Susannah tells us about the “liquid gold” wines of the Lugana DOC!

Lugana is a name to know. A white wine from the Lake Garda region of Italy made with the Turbiana grape, Lugana is a wine that can be drunk both in the young, fresh style as well as with some age on it.

Lying on the border between the two provinces of Brescia and Verona, the Lugana denomination stretches along the plains of morainic origin to the south of Lake Garda, within the communes of Sirmione, Pozzolengo, Desenzano and Lonato (in Lombardy) and Peschiera del Garda in the Veneto. The denomination is in both Lombardy and the Veneto. One of the only inter-regional DOC wines, some 90% of the vineyard holdings are located in Lombardy.

The “Lugana” Controlled Denomination of Origin (DOC), was instituted in 1967 as the first to be awarded this status in Lombardy as well as one of the very first in Italy as a whole.

Clay soils

The Lugana denomination can essentially be divided up into two zones.  The first—and larger—area is that with firmer clay soils. It is fairly flat and stretches along the hinterland of the lake, including Desenzano, Sirmione, part of the commune of Pozzolengo, and Peschiera. This is the heart of the denomination which produces the most “lacustrine” and mineral style of Lugana.

In the Veneto part of Lugana, there is just one commune, Peschiera del Garda. However, this includes one of the most interesting subzones, that of San Benedetto di Lugana, one of the denomination’s real “crus”.

The second, hillier zone stretches from the famous Monumental Tower of San Martino della Battaglia in two different directions: towards Pozzolengo and towards Lonato. Here the clays are sandier; the hills are more undulating and gentle, with altitudes of no more than 130 meters; the soils are more morainic (especially towards Lonato), with a considerable presence of gravel; the wines are less mineral-drivenl, more acidulous and voluminous.

In Lugana, the microclimate—influenced positively by the temperate breezes from Lake Garda—is mild and fairly constant, with little difference between day- and night-time temperatures. This is a “climatic cradle” that is perfect for highlighting the peculiarities of a special grape like Turbiana

Luca Formentini of Podere Selva Capuzza

Never heard of Turbiana? Not a surprise. It only grows in this area. Related to Trebbiano di Soave—a variety that is quite close geographically speaking, but whose vineyards lie on a different type of soil, of volcanic rather than morainic origin—the Turbiana grape was considered for a long time to be related to (if not actually confused with) the Verdicchio grape variety from Castelli di Jesi in the Marche Region. However, recent studies have shown that it is different from that cultivar in its aromatic characteristics, as well as from a phenological, agronomical, and oenological point of view.

Less high-yielding than most of the other Trebbianos of Italy, Turbiana is a grape that has a medium-sized, compact bunch, with a long, pyramidal shape; the pulp is juicy and loose, slightly acidulous, and neutral in flavor. It is sensitive to rot, oidium and peronospora. When vinified on its own, it shows great versatility both in the classic still versions and in sparkling ones.

Even if the production regulations allow for the presence of up to 10% of complementary white varieties (as long as they are non-aromatic), nowadays the zone’s producers tend to make their Luganas exclusively from Turbiana. Five different styles are permitted: standard Lugana, Superiore, Riserva, Vendemmia Tardiva (Late Harvest) and Spumante (Sparkling).

Susannah Gold

The Lugana production is limited, only about 16 million bottles per year. Much of it is exported to Germany and the U.K but a fair portion arrives in the U.S. as well. See if your local retailer carries some, you will be richly rewarded with this versatile and easy to pronounce wine.

Susannah Gold is the founder of Vigneto Communications, a New York City-based marketing and communications agency focusing on the food & wine industry.

Susannah is one of only a handful of non-Italians in the Associazione Italiana Sommeliers (AIS) and has received her Diploma of Wine & Spirits (DWS) from the Wine & Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a prestigious British program. She has also completed the Certified Specialist in Wine (CSW) and Certified Specialist of Spirits (CSS) exams at the Society of Wine Educators, a school in the United States and has completed her certification as a Spanish Wine Educator at the Wine Academy of Spain. Susannah is also a highly-rated, frequent speaker at SWE Conferences and we look forward to having her present a webinar on the wines of Lugana for SWE sometime very soon!

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Today we have a post from guest blogger Kryss Speegle. Kryss tells us about a recent trip to the Montstant DO. Read on for some insight into the history, the wines, and the region…but be warned this article is going to make you want to run and book a ticket to Spain!

 Marta Carbonell of Josep Grau Viticultor speaks with a quiet and engaging matter-of-factness: “We like high acidity. We love fruit. We hate oak.” Speaking for her own wines, she could easily be describing the Montsant style, and after a three-day visit, sponsored by Wines of Montsant, I’m ready to make this my mantra as well.

Unlike its flashy neighbor Priorat, where the famous llicorella slate dominates the landscape, Montsant is a patchwork of limestone, chalk and sand as well as slate, and elevations ranging from 50 to 700 meters; the wines are fresh and powerful with ferrous minerality and a core of intense fruit.

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Wine has been a significant product of Catalonia since at least the 6^th to 8^th centuries BCE, though vine plantings increased significantly after the establishment of the monastery of Poblet. Italian and Middle Eastern varieties were eventually replaced by primarily with Carinyena (Carignan, also known by its Catalan name Samsó) and Garnatxa (Grenache); a treasury of old vines remains today and red grapes account for 95% of production. Though Garnatxa has slightly higher production, Carinyena is also a star player alone or in blends and a firm rebuke to those who view it primarily as a high-yielding blender. The 100% Carinenya from Cellers Sant Rafel is fresh and even elegant. The minute plantings of white grapes are mostly Garnatxa Blanca and Macabeo, which make wines with a perfumed lift and flavors of baked apple, lemon curd and hawthorn.

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah exist in small plantings but are silent partners at best. A happy exception to this is the use of Syrah for rosé wines; in a single sitting, two lovely examples, one from Coca i Fito (fresh and restrained) and another from Celler Rondanelles (intensely fruity) remind me that rosé complements grilled octopus, braised artichokes, potato chips and just about everything else.

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Previously dominated by workhorse co-operatives, Montsant became a Denominación de Origin (DO) distinct from Tarragona in 2001 and within three years had 26 members across its 1,800 hectares, a testament to producers’ commitment to the region. Some are Priorat vintners looking for a bargain while others are locals who bucked the historical exodus to Barcelona. It’s an uplifting narrative for anyone accustomed to hearing that the world’s great wine regions are all supersaturated with vines or prohibitively expensive.

As the driver in front of us repeatedly stops to point at various vines, our guide from the DO claims that nearly everyone in the area has a few inherited plots — “Once poor farmers, now proud viticulturalists.” The region is also home to a thriving polyculture; marcona almonds, hazelnuts, cherries, and peaches are commercially grown and the slopes are dotted with wildflowers and resinous herbs.

Co-ops are still in the game but, as elsewhere in Europe, are redefining the old label with exciting and pleasurable wines. At Celler de Capçanes, a traditional co-operative found a successful niche in kosher wine production; the Peraj Ha’abib is the mainstay of this line and is lovely. The real excitement, though, is their “La Nit de les garnatxes” collection exploring the diversity of Montsant’s terroirs. Four wines of 100% Garnatxa, each representing one of the region’s four soil types, are presented in some of the  cleverest  packaging I’ve seen yet, wrapped in color-coded comics explaining the soil’s effect on the wine. The wines themselves do an amazing job telling the story of Montsant by drawing out its shades of difference—by turns refined and sinewy, generously fruited and earthy.

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Nearly half of Montsant’s wines are exported with many available in U.S. retailers. For those who want a closer look, the DO’s commercial center is Falset, a self-sufficient town of 2,800 and a good base for exploring. To discover from a distance, see these sites:

• www.domontsant.com/en
• https://www.nytimes.com/2016/11/28/dining/wine-school-montsant.html
• http://www.decanter.com/wine-news/opinion/jefford-on-monday/montsant-wines-profile-spain-381352/
• https://www.wine-searcher.com/regions-montsant

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About the Author: Kryss Speegle works in bulk sales, supplying wines and spirits to customers throughout the United States and around the world. Previously she was O’Neill’s Director of Winemaking, where she managed the company’s extensive varietal wine programs and led a talented team of winemakers.

Prior to O’Neill, Kryss held winemaking and enologist roles at Kenwood and Ravenswood. She has also worked for wineries in Napa, Mendocino, Germany and New Zealand. Kryss has served as a past judge for the San Francisco Chronicle and West Coast wine competitions and has taught wine courses at Santa Rosa Junior College and Napa Valley Wine Academy.

Kryss received a Bachelor’s degree from University of Virginia and a graduate degree in Food Science/Enology from University of California at Davis. While at Davis, Kryss conducted sensory research for Dr. Ann Noble, creator of the Wine Aroma Wheel.

When she’s not in the vineyard or in the production facility, Kryss enjoys cooking, traveling and spending time with her family.

Photo credits: Kryss Speegle