Washington State Welcomes Two New AVAs! (focus on: the White Bluffs AVA)

  By admin | June 17, 2021 - 11:39 am | ,
Leave a comment
Map via the TTB AVA Explorer Map

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer Map

On June 17, 2021, the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States approved two new American Viticultural Areas (AVAs): the White Bluffs AVA and the Burn of Columbia Valley AVA. When these new AVAs come into force—on July 19, 2021—the total number of AVAs in Washington State will be 18.

This article will focus on the White Bluffs AVA; click here for an article focusing on the Burn of Columbia Valley AVA.

The White Bluffs AVA—named for a steep escarpment located along the eastern shore of the Columbia River—is located with Franklin County, about 10 miles/16 km north of the town of Kennewick. The White Bluffs AVA is a sub-region of the much larger Columbia Valley AVA.

The defining characteristics of the White Bluffs AVA include the area’s topography, soils, and climate. These features—as noted by Dr. Kevin Pogue, Professor of Geology at Whitman College and the author of the original petition—are discussed below.

Topography: The White Bluffs AVA sits atop an elevated plateau, as much as 200 feet/61 meters above the surrounding area (known as the Pasco Basin). As a result, the overall elevation of the region varies between 800 feet/244 meters and 1,000 feet/305 meters above sea level. The plateau is divided by the Ringold Coulee and the Koontz Coulee into two relatively flat areas known as the Columbia Flat and the Owens Flat. In addition, the southern edge of the appellation includes a portion of the south-facing slopes of the namesake White Bluffs. 

Map via the TTB Explorer Map

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer Map

Soils: The topsoil of the area—windblown silt (loess) and alluvial deposits from the Missoula floods—is quite similar to the soils in the surrounding areas. However, what lies beneath—a layer of ancient lakebed sediment with a whitish appearance topped by a layer of caliche (calcium carbonate)—is unique. This layer—known as the Ringold Formation—also contains enough clay so that the soil retains different proportions of water and minerals (as compared to those of the surrounding areas). In addition, the Ringold Formation is deep enough so that the roots of the vines planted in the White Bluffs AVA—unlike the vines in much of the rest of the Columbia Valley AVA—do not ever reach the basalt bedrock. 

Climate: Due to the added elevation, the area within the White Bluffs AVA is protected from the cold air on the surrounding valley floor. This makes for a slightly warmer temperature and longer growing season, as compared with the surrounding area. Vines have been planted in the area since 1972 and have never experienced a freeze during the growing season.

The White Bluffs AVA covers a total of 93,738 total acres (146 square miles), with 1,127 acres/456 ha planted to vines. Currently, there are nine commercial vineyards and one bonded winery—Claar Cellars—located within the boundaries of the appellation. The leading grape varieties include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Riesling, and Sauvignon Blanc.

Welcome to the world, White Bluffs AVA!

P.S. The TTB has also announced a new AVA in California—Palos Verdes Peninsula—to be effective on July 19, 2021. Click here for more details. 

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

New Rules (in the New Year) for Cava!

  By admin | June 16, 2021 - 10:33 am | ,
Leave a comment
A typical New Year's Eve in Madrid ©Semmickphoto/123RF.COM

A typical New Year’s Eve in Madrid ©Semmickphoto/123RF.COM

When the clock strikes midnight on December 31 and we roll over into the new year of 2022, the wines of Cava will begin a new era—as a set of updates and revisions to the Cava regulations come into force.

These updates—centered on specificity in geographic indications as well as new aging tiers—have been in the works for years; and were first approved by the Consejo Regulador of the Cava DO (Denominación de Origen) back in 2019. Along with their publication in Spain’s Boletín Oficial del Estado (BOE/Official Gazette of Spain) on June 15, 2021, they are set to come into force as of January 1, 2022.

A new tier of aged wines—tied to some specific qualitative guidelines has been introduced. This tier includes the following designations:

  • Cava de Guarda, requiring at least nine months of again on the lees and that the wine be traceable from the vineyard to the bottle
  • Cava de Guarda Superior, requiring at least 18 months on the lees as well as the following standards:
    • The vines must be at least 10 years old
    • The grapes must be grown organically (granted with a five-year period allowed for transition)
    • Maximum yield: 10,000 kg/ha
    • The wine must be traceable from the vineyard to the bottle
    • It must be vintage-dated

The regulations for Cava Reserva also have been changed; Cava Reserva will now need a minimum of 18 months aging on the lees (up from the previous minimum of 15 months).

The regulations for Cava Gran Reserva (requiring a minimum 30 months of aging on the lees) and Cava de Paraje Calificado (produced using grapes grown in a recognized vineyard and aged on the less for a minimum of 36 months) have not changed.

Map via the CAVA DO: www.cava.wine/en

Map via the CAVA DO: www.cava.wine/en

In addition, these new changes bring some long-awaited specificity to the geographical definition of Cava. This is exciting because it represents the first time that Cava will be allowed to list a specific place-of-origin (aside from just the far-flung “Cava” designation) on the label. These new geographical indications include four basic zones:  Comtats de Barcelona, Valle de Ebro (Ebro Valley), Viñedos de Almendralejo, and Levante.

Here is a bit of detail about each of these zones:

  • Comtats de Barcelona: This zone covers wine produced in Catalonia, representing as much as 95% of the total production of Cava. The area contains five (very terroir-specific) sub-zones: Valls d’Anoia-Foix, Serra de Mar, Conca del Gaia, Serra de Prades and Pla de Ponent.
  • Valle de Ebro (Ebro Valley): This zone—the northernmost of the Cava DO—is tucked between several mountain ranges and lies alongside the Ebro River (overlapping a portion of the Rioja DOCa). There are two sub-zones: Alto Ebro and Valle del Cierzo.
  • Viñedos de Almendralejo: This small area follows the borders of Almendralejo, a town in the Extremadura region. This area is located quite a way inland—close to the Portuguese border—and represents the area furthest southwest in the Cava D.O.
  • Levante: This area—located in eastern Spain on a high plateau in the province of Valencia—follows the borders of the town of Requena. (Note: the name Levante is considered temporary, so we may have another update soon!)

The website of the Consejo Regulador de Cava has some excellent, sub-zone-specific maps.

The Cava DO has also announced that more changes are in the works—specifically, that all top-tier Cava (including Cava Reserva, Cava Gran Reserva and Cava de Paraje Calificado) will be 100% organic by 2025. We will keep an eye on that!

Note: As with all such updates, this change will need to wind its way through EU approval; however, as the Spanish government has granted their approval, the changes will be in force (as scheduled) on January 1, 2022. If the EU fails to approve the amendment, the regulation will be rescinded (although this is quite unlikely to happen).

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

 

 

Dispatch from Amboise (and the Touraine AOC)

  By admin | June 6, 2021 - 10:17 am | ,
Leave a comment
Château d'Amboise

Château d’Amboise

Amboise is a tiny French town situated on the banks of Loire River (about 17 miles/27 km east of Tours) and just a short drive (11 miles/18 km) away from the awe-inspiring Château de Chenonceau.

Despite its small stature, Amboise has a lot going for it. For one, it is home to the Château du Clos Lucé, originally built by the Hugues d’Amboise (nobles of the House of Amboise) in 1471. The Château du Clos Lucé has had several famous occupants, including Leonardo da Vinci who resided in the palace for the last few years of his life. Upon his death in 1519, the great artist was laid to rest in the nearby Chapel of St Florentin. When the Chapel of St. Florentin was razed at the end of the 18th century, Leonardo’s tomb was moved to the grounds of the Château d’Amboise. (At least that is what most people believe; there are some skeptics.)

Grounds of the Château de Chanteloup

Grounds of the Château de Chanteloup

Amboise is also home to what might be the only pagoda ever built on the banks of the Loire—the pagoda of the Château de Chanteloup—and the Parc des Mini-Chateaux—a theme park where you can walk among 40 miniature renditions of the famous castles, gardens, and villas of the Loire.

Amboise is also known for its wine; much of which is bottled under the Touraine-Amboise appellation. Amboise is currently one of the five sub-zones/geographic indications that are allowed to append their name to the Touraine AOC designation—as long as the mandated, specific standards are followed. There are rumors afloat that Amboise will (someday soon) apply for a separate AOC, however, this has not yet approached the national level.

There have, nevertheless, been some recent changes to the rules and regulations concerning the wines of the Touraine-Amboise AOC. These include revisions to the allowed grape varieties, viticultural practices, and character of the finished wine. The most substantive of these changes concern the allowed grape varieties, as follows:

  • Varietal composition of red wines: Must be 100% Côt. They take Côt seriously in Amboise and consider it a specific (and historical) local variation of Malbec. Though previously allowed, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Gamay are no longer permitted to be used in the red wines of the Touraine-Amboise AOC.
  • Varietal composition of rosé wines: May be produced using any proportion of Côt and/or Gamay. Though previously allowed, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc are no longer permitted to be used in the rosé wines of the Touraine-Amboise AOC.
Map of the Touraine AOC (showing the Amboise subzone) via the INAO

Map of the Touraine AOC (showing the Amboise subzone) via the INAO

Touraine-Amboise AOC white wines are required to be 100% Chenin Blanc (this standard has not changed).

Note: For the serious wine students in our audience—the other four subzones of the Touraine AOC are as follows: Mesland, Azay-le-Rideau, Oisly, and Chenonceaux.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Dispatch from Bardolino

  By admin | May 20, 2021 - 12:47 pm | ,
Leave a comment
Map via: https://consorziobardolino.it/

Map via: https://consorziobardolino.it/

Heads up, wine students of the world! In the April 12, 2021 edition of the Gazzetta Ufficiale della Repubblica Italiana (Official Journal of Italy), it was announced that there have been a few changes made in the rules and regulations of the Bardolino DOC. Bardolino—located on the banks of Lake Garde in Italy’s Veneto—is well-known for its lively red and rosé (chiaretto) wines based on the Corvina grape variety.

The main update involves three new subzones of the Bardolino appellation. These new regions—La Rocca, Montebaldo, and Sommacampagna—have been approved for use upon the release of the region’s 2018 vintage. The previously existing Bardolino Classico subzone will remain in place and is unaffected by the changes.

According to the website of the Consorzio di Tutela Chiaretto e del Bardolino, the newly approved subzones represent a historical view of region. These areas have been recognized since the 19th century, when they were documented by a local scholar known as Giovanni Battista Perez. These subzones were not, however, written into the original specification of the Bardolino DOC (first established in 1968).

Here is some information about each of the new subzones:

Bardolino-La Rocca takes up the entirety of the area adjacent to Lake Garda, and represents the ancient district of Bardolino, which has ties to the Roman Empire and was mentioned in the 12th century as a free commune. In the 1200s, the area was expanded and fortified under the “protection” of the Scaligeri of Verona; after the fall of the Scaligeri the area become part of the Republic of Venice.

Map indicating the (previously existing) Bardolino Classico subregion

Map indicating the (previously existing) Bardolino Classico subregion

Bardolino-Montebaldo encompasses the area of the eastern foothills of Monte Baldo Mountain Range. The Monte Baldo Range—part of the larger Garda Mountains—is basically a mid-level ridge running parallel to (and east of) to Lake Garda for about 25 miles (40 km).  The area around the Monte Baldo Mountains is often called “the Garden of Europe” due to the incredible plant biodiversity (and copious beautiful wildflowers) of the area.

Bardolino-Sommacampagna accounts for the rolling hills in the southern reaches of the district.  The area takes its name from the commune of Sommacampagna, located in the southeast of the zone.

Note: As with all such updates, this change will need to wind its way through EU approval; however, as the Italian government has granted their approval, we should begin to see the new subzones appear on wine labels with the release of the wines of the 2018 vintage.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

On the Riesling Radar: New Place-Specific Appellations in Store for Germany

  By admin | April 21, 2021 - 1:00 pm | ,
2 Comments
Graphic via https://www.germanwines.de/

Graphic via https://www.germanwines.de/

Ask any wine student, and they will be eager to tell you: German wines are confusing. When you consider the combination of gothic-style script on labels, overlapping levels of the Prädikat, and a seemingly never-ending list of places-of-origin (only some of which are government-approved and therefore considered official)—most wine educators would agree.

Hang on to your hats, wine lovers, because the categorization and classification of German wines is about to change, and it is yet to be seen whether these changes will make the study of German wines easier, or even more (shall we say) complex.

Before we dive in, take heart: these changes are still in the works. While producers can implement the changes immediately, they are not required to do so until the 2025 vintage—and there is still quite a bit of regulatory work to be done. Nevertheless, here is what has been announced so far:

The hierarchy (and label terminology) for Prädikatswein—based on ripeness levels (must concentration) at harvest—will remain unchanged.

A new system (hierarchy)—based on geography and the philosophy of the smaller the area, the higher the quality—will come into force. This geography-based set of classifications will apply to PDO (protected designation of origin) wines only—both still and sparkling—and may be used for both Qualitätswein and Prädikatswein.

This geography-based hierarchy is not entirely new; current students of wine will recall the four levels of German wine place-of-origin categories—Anbaugebiete (area), Bereiche (region), Grosslagen (village), Einzellagen (vineyard)—currently in use. This new system changes the terminology up a bit, adds a few levels of specificity, AND allows for the regulation of grape varieties and wine styles at the higher levels. (Specific information on what these regulations will be is to-be-determined and is expected to be released over the next few months/years.)

Here is the new categorization of German wine place-of-origin terms, in order from largest (and—theoretically, less specific in qualifications and lowest in quality) to smallest (and—theoretically, with the most specific qualification and highest in quality).

  • Anbaugebiet (area): This refers to Germany’s 13 quality wine regions (Anbaugebiete) and has not changed. Grapes may be grown in any part of the area, and the wine will carry the name of the area—such as Mosel, Rheinhessen, or Pflaz—on the label.
  • Region: Each Anbaugebiet will be broken down in several specified areas (such as those previously referred to as Bereiche or Grosslagen). These regions will span several political areas such as communes or districts.
  • Ortsweine (village): Named for a specific village; must reflect the typical grape varieties and wine style of the village. These wines must be produced from grapes harvested at least the Kabinett-level of ripeness and may not be sold before December 15 of the harvest year.
  • Einzellage (vineyard): These wines must be produced in accordance with the grape varieties and wine styles typical of the vineyard. In addition, all wines at this level of the hierarchy (and above) must be made from grapes that are harvested at the ripeness/must concentration threshold as defined for the area’s Kabinett level grapes (or higher). The name of the Einzellage (vineyard) must appear on the wine label alongside the name of the region. These wines may not be sold before March 1 of the year following the harvest.
  • Erstes Gewächs: This designation is made for a sub-plot of a vineyard and comes with a long list of qualifications, which may include specific grape varieties, methods of production, sensory characteristics, and limits on yield. This category is reserved for dry wines made from a single grape variety only. The quality level may be thought of as the “second-highest ranking” in the area, such as is reserved for Burgundy’s Premier Cru vineyards.  These wines must be vintage-dated and may not be sold before March 1 of the year following the harvest.
  • Grosses Gewächs: This designation may be considered the highest level in the category (similar to the Grand Cru vineyards of Burgundy). The qualifications are also steep—in addition to regulations on grape varieties, production methods, and sensory characteristics—the wine must be dry; and it must be produced from a single vineyard, a single grape variety, and a single vintage year. At this level, white may be sold after September 1st of the year following harvest, and red wines may not be sold until June 1st of the second year after harvest.
    • Smaller plots of land known as Gewannen (singular: Gewann) may also be defined within the Erstes Gewächs or the Grosses Gewächs.

Side note: according to the press release linked below, “Associations that already use the terms Grosses Gewächs and Erstes Gewächs may continue to use them if they meet certain minimum requirements from the wine ordinance, for example with regard to grape varieties, yields, harvest regulations or the taste profile.”

Reference/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

 

 

Dispatch from the Toro DO

  By admin | April 12, 2021 - 4:17 pm |
Leave a comment
Photo of the Toro Vineyards vis dotoro.com

Photo of the Toro Vineyards via dotoro.com

The Toro DO, located on Spain’s Duero River just west of Rueda, has been making wine since pre-Roman times. It is even said that the rich, red wines of the area were a favorite of King Alfonso IX of León back in the 13th century.

Most of the wine produced in the Toro DO is based on the Tinta del Toro grape variety—considered to be a local clone of Tempranillo. This local variant has thicker skins and deeper color than the Tempranillo grapes grown in the neighboring regions of Ribera del Duero and Rioja. These robust grapes help are crafted into the rich, bold, and tannic red wines of the Toro DO. Perhaps this is why the region goes by the name Toro—the bull. 

Until recently, the red wines of the Toro DO were required to contain a minimum of 75% Tinta del Toro. While the remaining 25% was allowed to contain Garnacha, most wines were close to 100% Tinta del Toro.

However as of April 7, 2021—when the revisions were approved and published in the Official Journal of the EU—there have been a few changes made to the Pliego de Condiciones for the Toro DO, and we may soon start seeing some different styles of wine coming from Toro. These recent updates include the following:

Photo via dotoro.com

Photo via dotoro.com

Grape varieties allowed for use in the red wines of the Toro DO: The new regulations allow for the red wines of the area to be produced using a minimum of 75% Tinta del Toro or a minimum of 85% Garnacha Tinta. In either case, the remainder must contain Tinta del Toro and/or Garnacha Tinta—the only two red grapes allowed. The red wines of the Toro DO are known for being medium to full-bodied with gritty tannins and cherry to ruby red (for young wines) or cherry red to terracotta in color (for barrel-aged wines). The aromas are typically bold, redolent of red fruit (strawberry, raspberry), black fruit (blackberry, black cherry, plum), flowers (violet, dried roses), black pepper, cocoa, and vanilla.

Grape varieties allowed for use in the white wines of the Toro DO: White wines comprise a tiny percentage of the production of the Toro DO, however, the standards for Toro Blanco have been updated as well. The changes involve the approval of two new grape varieties: Albillo Real and Moscatel de Grano Menudo (Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains). These two new grape varieties can be used in any combination, alongside the two pre-existing white grapes of the appellation: Malvasía Castellana (also known as Cigüente or Doña Blanca in this area) and Verdejo. The white wines of the Toro DO are known for their aromas of fruit (peach, pear, apricot, green apple), flowers, and a green grass/herbal quality. If barrel aged, the wines may show some oxidation and aromas of wood, smoke, or hazelnut.

Map of the Toro DO and surrounding appellatons

Map of the Toro DO and surrounding appellatons

Grape varieties allowed for use in the rosé wines of the Toro DO: Toro rosato may now be produced using any combination of the area’s authorized grapes (red and/or white): Tinta del Toro, Garnacha Tinta, Albillo Real, Moscatel de Grano Menudo, Malvasía Castellana, and/or Verdejo. The rosé wines of the Toro DO are expected to be “pale to salmon pink in color” with “fresh red and/or black fruit aromas.”

Several other updates were also approved, many of them involving viticultural and winemaking practices for the Toro DO. These include an increase in allowed yield for Tinta de Toro and a removal of the previous limitation on the maximum allowed alcohol by volume (formerly 15 abv%). For more details on these changes, see the publication in the Official Journal of the EU dated April 7, 2021 (attached below).

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

The Triumph of Trepat

  By admin | April 8, 2021 - 9:14 am | ,
Leave a comment

14989542 - trepat black grape, is a native variety of the conca de barbera. catalonia

Trepat is a relatively unknown red grape variety. At last count, there were just shy of 1,000 hectares (2,400 acres) planted in the world. Most—if not all—of these plantings are in Spain, mainly in Catalonia; although there are a few plantings in Valencia and Murcia (where the grape goes by the synonym Bonicaire).

If Trepat has any claim to fame at all, it is due to its use in Cava, one of the leading sparkling wines of Spain. If you’ve been a student of wine for longer than a year, you were most likely taught that Trepat was allowed for use in Cava, but only in rosé. This certainly was true from 1998 until the middle of 2020. However, in June of that year (just in time for the update to be included in the 2021 edition of the Certified Specialist of Wine Study Guide), the Pliego de Condiciones for the Cava DO was updated and the limitation on the use of Trepat was repealed.

Thus, it seems we are witnessing the Triumph of Trepat.  The reason for the change in Cava’s handling of Trepat—as stated in the Official Journal of the EU—is as follows: “In 1998, commercial development of rosé Cava began and the use of the Trepat variety was authorized for making rosé Cava. At present, with demand for rosé wines more than covered, and taking into account the good qualitative assessment of wines made from the Trepat variety, we consider that making white Cava (blanc de noirs) from the Trepat variety is an option of product diversification that does not take away from the quality of the Cava. Therefore, we decided to authorize this proposal so that white Cava may also be obtained from this variety.”

Trepat is a robust grape variety that tends to produce large, compact bunches of thick-skinned grapes. Its lack of popularity (in terms of plantings) may be due to its tendency to early budding and late ripening, making the vines somewhat susceptible to spring frost and harvest time rains.

Red wines produced from Trepat are produced in Catalonia’s Conca de Barberà and Costers de Costers del Segre DOs tend to be pale in color and feature aromas and flavors of red fruit (strawberry, raspberry, red cherry) and sweet spices (cinnamon). A touch of citrus/orange peel bitterness often accompanies the finish.

Cava Pere Mata TrepatTrepat seems to make its best appearances in rosé, both sparkling and still. Several leading Cava producers use the grape in their pink bubbly as well as Trepat rosé (still/non-sparling). One great example is Cava Portell/Vinicola de Sarral, who produces a Trepat-based Portell Rosat Brut Cava as well as a 100% Trepat rosé bottled under Conca de Barberà DO. The Conca de Barberà rosé is described as having aromas of peaches and strawberries along with a crisp, juicy acidity.

Another nice example is the 100% Trepat Cava Rosat produced by Pere Mata; this wine is described as having aromas of “raspberries, cranberries, and hibiscus flowers.” The upstarts of the Spanish sparkling wine world—producers of Corpinnat—are also proponents of Trepat: see Castellroig’s Reserva Brut Rosat for a fascinating example.

Keep an eye out for Trepat…and taste the triumph! 

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

It’s Official: New Grape Varieties Approved for the Bordeaux AOC

  By admin | April 1, 2021 - 6:27 am | ,
Leave a comment
.

.

It’s Official. At long last—over a year and a half after a general assembly of winemakers from the Syndicat des Bordeaux et Bordeaux Supérieur voted unanimously to allow seven new grapes to be used in the wines of the region—the INAO (France’s Institut national de l’origine et de la qualité) has spoken.

Per publication in the Journal Officiel of the Republic of France (dated March 30, 2021), six new grape varieties have been approved for use—in limited amounts—in the wines of the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur AOCs. The seventh grape—Petite Manseng—originally proposed by the Syndicat was not approved at the national level.

  • The six new grapes—which will be making their way into the ground in the next few months—are as follows:
    • Arinarnoa: Named after the Basque words for “light” (arin) and “wine” (arno), Arinarnoa is a Tannat X Cabernet Sauvignon cross created in Montpelier. Arinarnoa is aromatic and known for producing wines that are well-structured, tannic, and richly hued.
    • Castets: A red grape variety believed to be native to Bordeaux, this grape was once widely planted throughout Southwestern France. It is considered something of a “forgotten” variety—but is known to be highly resilient and disease resistant.
    • Marselan: Marselan is a Cabernet Sauvignon X Grenache cross created in 1961 by Paul Truel, who was working in Montpellier France’s Institut National de la Recherché Agronomique (INRA). Marselan is a late-ripening, highly resistant grape known for producing dark red, age-worthy wines with distinctive flavors.
    • Touriga Nacional: Touriga Nacional is widely-planted and well known throughout the Iberian Peninsula—due in part, no doubt, to its use wide-spread use in Port.  It is an exceptionally late-ripening variety and well-suited to warm temperatures. Touriga Nacional can provide good color, excellent structure, and complex aromatics to a red wine blend.
    • Albariño: Albariño is famous for its role in the snappy white wines of Spain’s Rías Baixas DO and (as Alvarinho) in Portugal’s crisp, white versions of Vinho Verde. In the future wines of Bordeaux, it is believed that the grape’s intense aromas will be able to comfortably withstand the potential onslaught of warmer weather.
    • Lilorila: Another highly aromatic white grape, Lilorila is a Baroque X Chardonnay cross. (Baroque itself is a late-ripening, vigorous white grape believed to be native to Southwest France.) Baroque is a principle grape variety of the Tursan AOC, but besides this claim-to-fame, it is planted quite sparingly (total plantings may be as low as 112 hectares/277 acres in all of France).
.

.

Research and experimentation on the new slate of grape varieties was initiated over ten years ago in an effort to lessen the long-term effects of climate change on the wine industry of Bordeaux.

The newly approved grapes have a proven ability to thrive in warmer conditions accompanied by naturally high acidity, late bud-breaking tendency (which can help alleviate problems with spring frost), late ripening, and good resistance to vine diseases. The white varieties are—in particular—intensely aromatic; this can help assuage aroma loss due to warm weather.

There are several limitations to the use of these new grape varieties, which will remain listed as “accessory varieties” on the appellations’ documentation (the Cahier des Charges). The combined acreage of the new white grape varieties may not exceed 5% of an estate’s total land area planted to white grapes. Accordingly, the total acreage of the newly approved red grape varieties may not exceed 5% of an estate’s total land area planted to red grapes. In addition, the new varieties (combined) cannot exceed 10% of the blend in any given wine—and there can be no mention of the new grape varieties anywhere on the wine’s label.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

New for 2021—Standards for Japanese Whisky

  By admin | March 19, 2021 - 1:42 pm | ,
Leave a comment
Miyagikyo Distillery in Sendai Japan

Miyagikyo Distillery in Sendai Japan

While it has been something of a well-kept secret, the truth remains: some of the Japanese whisky sold in your neighborhood liquor stores may not have been produced in Japan. Under (previous) standards, it is possible that your Japanese whisky (whiskey) was a blend containing a base whisky made in Scotland (or elsewhere) or blended with a portion of non-grain-based spirit. In addition, it may have been aged for a noticeably short period of time. (Important note: this does not apply to all—or even most—Japanese whisky, but the possibility is out there.)

However, as of April 1, 2021, a new set of rules, as defined by Japan Spirits & Liqueurs Makers Association, will come into force for its association members. Please note that these rules are not the result of legislation and are therefore not legally enforced by government entities. However, many whisky producers in Japan are indeed members of the association and will therefore be in observance. Producers will have until March 31, 2024 to bring all their products into compliance.

These new regulations include the following standards for Japanese Whisky:

  • Base ingredients: limited to malted grains, other cereal grains, and water extracted in Japan. Malted grains must always be used.
  • Production process: saccharification, fermentation, and distillation must be carried out at a distillery in Japan.
  • Aging: the spirit must be aged in Japan in wooden casks (maximum capacity of 700 liters) for a minimum of 3 years
  • Bottling proof: minimum 40% abv
  • Additives: caramel coloring is allowed
'From the Barrel' Nikka whiskey

‘From the Barrel’ Nikka whiskey

Products in compliance with the new regulations will be labeled with the term “Japanese Whisky” (or “Japanese Whiskey”) with no additional verbiage placed between the two words. In addition, products must comply with the new rules to use any of the following on the label: geographic locations in Japan, pictures of the Japanese flag, names of people that evoke Japan, terms associated with the history of Japan, or the names of Japanese rivers or mountains.

Products that continue to contain sprits not produced in Japan may be labeled as “world blends” or “world whisky.” Alternatively, they may remain unspecific as to origin.

References/for more information:

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Nathan “Nearest” Green, Master Distiller

  By admin | February 25, 2021 - 9:17 am | ,
Leave a comment
Photo of Jack Daniels with George Green (Nearest Green's son) via: https://www.jackdaniels.com/en-us/vault

Photo of Jack Daniels with George Green (Nearest Green’s son) via: https://www.jackdaniels.com/en-us/vault

Within the world of spirits, students and connoisseurs alike quickly learn that the story and history of a spirit, the lore behind the bottle, can be as compelling as the actual beverage. Knowing about the people that spent their lives making the products we love allows us to feel connected to them and the entire tradition around those drinks. However, it is very often the case that we do not have the entire story. It takes the work of historians and writers to uncover the stories behind the stories. It took this kind of work to bring one remarkable man out of the shadows of history and into the light of the present day – Nathan “Nearest” Green or as he was known to his friends and family “Uncle Nearest.”

Nearest Green was born into slavery sometime in the early 1800s. The history of his early life is hard to piece together, but by the mid-1800s he was held by a company called Landis & Green which would hire out Green’s labor. Lutheran Minister Dan Call hired Nearest in the 1850s through this company. Call ran a farm, a successful general store, and a still in Lois, TN, just outside of Lynchburg. From all available accounts, Nearest acted as the head distiller for the operation, which was not an uncommon role for enslaved African Americans throughout America.

After working and running the still for Call for some time, a pre-teen Jack Daniels arrived at the operation intent on learning how to make whiskey. Call referred to Nearest as the “best whiskey maker” he knew, making him an ideal mentor for the young Daniels. The two spent years working side by side, making whiskey throughout the entire course of the Civil War. Nearest’s enslavement formally ended with the passage of the 13th Amendment, and after which he chose to continue working with Daniels and Call. By the late 1860s the whiskey business was thriving and after Call had a crisis of conscience he sold his stake to Daniels which resulted in the creation of the Jack Daniel Distillery. Nearest became its first head distiller, the equivalent to a modern-day master distiller.

Nearest worked alongside Jack Daniels for many years, up until his retirement in the 1880s. His career and success made him one of the wealthiest men in Lynchburg and his dedication to distillation became a family tradition. His sons, George and Eli, went to work for Daniels, as well as several of his grandchildren. Ultimately, over the past century and a half, seven generations of Green’s descendants have worked for the Jack Daniels distillery.

Original office building on the grounds of the Jack Daniel's Distillery (Lynchburg, Tennessee)

Original office building on the grounds of the Jack Daniel’s Distillery (Lynchburg, Tennessee)

Nearest Green’s story was common knowledge to the families of Lynchburg. Past historians also knew of his contributions to Tennessee and American whiskey. Yet it was not until a few years ago that the man and legend of Nearest Green entered the mainstream public consciousness – primarily through the work of author Fawn Weaver. Over the course of a year of research, Weaver assembled the facts and pieces of Nearest’s life, spending countless hours interviewing his descendants and the people of Lynchburg. Through oral history, historic records, and artifacts, we now have a more complete look at the early days of Jack Daniels and the indispensable impact Nearest had upon it.

The legacy of Nearest Green is preserved today in several ways. There’s a non-profit organization, the Nearest Green Foundation, dedicated to preserving and sharing the history of Nearest. There’s also a scholarship program, the Nearest Green Legacy Scholarship, dedicated to helping provide educational opportunities to descendants of Nearest. And, perhaps most famously, the Tennessee whiskey brand, Uncle Nearest, that bears his name in tribute to his achievements as an African American distiller in the nineteenth-century.

About the author: Ben Coffelt, CSS, CSW serves as a Sales Director for the Society of Wine Educators (SWE). Originally from California, Ben Coffelt started his wine and spirits career leading customer tastings and staff trainings at Trader Joe’s. His love of history drives his interests, and he’s always eager to learn about a new place, person, or product. He can often be found sipping rum with his French Bulldog, Hobbes.

References/for more information: