Wine, Wit, and Wisdom

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

On June 3 (2022) the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States announced the approval of the Mount Pisgah-Polk County American Viticultural Area (AVA), located in Oregon. The newly minted AVA is located entirely within the existing Willamette Valley AVA and represents the 23^rd AVA located in Oregon. With the approval of the new AVA, the Willamette Valley AVA now has 11 sub-appellations.

The Mount Pisgah-Polk County AVA covers a total of 5,850 acres surrounding the 835-foot summit of Mount Pisgah, located about 15 miles west of Salem (and just south of the town of Dallas, Oregon).

• According to the petition to establish the appellation—originally submitted in 2018—the distinguishing features of the Mount Pisgah-Polk County AVA include its topography, climate, and soils, as described below.
  • Topography: The new AVA is located within a chain of small hills in the Willamette Valley area. Elevations range from 260 feet to 835 feet asl (at the peak of Mount Pisgah); the areas surrounding the Mount Pisgah-Polk County AVA are all at lower elevations.
  • Climate: The Mount Pisgah-Polk County AVA is somewhat cooler than the surrounding valley floor. The average annual growing degree days (GDD) for Mount Pisgah total 2,543 GDD; the surrounding areas total 2,661 GDD (in the tow of McMinnville, to the south) and 2,903 GD (in the town of Salem, to the east).
  • Soils: Like much of the surrounding area, the dominant soil of the Mount Pisgah-Polk County AVA is sedimentary in nature (to include sandstone and siltstone). While the remainder of the Willamette Valley AVA has a large percentage of soils derived from the Missoula Floods, in the new AVA only 2.1% of the area is so affected. Rather, due to the higher elevation of the area, the soils of the Mount Pisgah-Polk County AVA contain a high percentage of volcanic rocks that were part of an ancient seabed. These rocks are among the oldest rocks within the Willamette Valley, and the Mount Pisgah area is the only spot in the Willamette Valley that combines sedimentary soils with such ancient parent material.

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

At the time of the original petition, there were 10 commercial vineyards (planted to a total of 531 acres of vines) and 2 wineries—Amelie Robert Estate and Ilahe Vineyards—located within the area of the Mount Pisgah-Polk Count AVA. Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay are the leading grape varieties.

Note: The official name of the new AVA reads as follows: Mount Pisgah, Polk County, Oregon AVA. The name includes the name of the county as there are at least three locations in Oregon named Mount Pisgah. As other states also have areas named Mount Pisgah, the term Oregon is also part of the official name of the AVA.

Welcome to the world, Mount Pisgah-Polk County AVA!

On another note: June 3 was a busy day for the TTB, which saw the approval of four new AVAs, including Mount Pisgah. The other three include Rocky Reach (WA), Upper Lake Valley (CA), and Paulsell Valley (CA). When all four of these AVAs are brought into force—on July 5, 2022—the total number of AVAs in the United States will be 266.

References/for more information:

• Federal Register-June 3 2022-Establishment of the Mount Pisgah Polk County Oregon AVA
• Petition to Establish the Mount Pisgah Polk County Oregon AVA
• https://www.amalierobert.com/
• https://www.illahevineyards.com/

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

On June 3 (2022) the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States announced the approval of the Rocky Reach American Viticultural Area (AVA)., located in portions of Chelan and Douglas Counties in Washington State. The newly minted AVA is located entirely within the existing Columbia Valley AVA and represents the 20^th AVA located in Washington State.

The Rocky Reach AVA covers a long, narrow strip of land that straddles a portion of the Columbia River. This stretch of the Columbia River consists of a deep canyon between two sets of rolling hills (the foothills of the Cascade Mountains to the west and Badger Mountain to the east). The new AVA is situated between the Lake Chelan AVA (located a few miles to the north) and the Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley AVA (located a few miles to the southeast).

• According to the petition to establish the appellation—originally submitted in 2018 by Kevin Pogue PhD, Professor of Geology at Whitman College—the distinguishing features of the Rocky Reach AVA include its topography, soils, and climate, as described below.
  • Topography: The area within the Rocky Reach AVA consists of a deep canyon eroded over time by the rapids of the Columbia River. The prime vineyard areas are located along flat-topped terraces that line either side of the river.
  • Soils: Loess (windblown sand and silt) is the leading soil type of the Rocky Reach AVA and other parts of the Columbia Valley. However, unlike the surrounding areas, the soils in the Rocky Reach AVA are topped with gravel and cobblestones. The bedrock of the region is also unique—in the Rocky Reach and Lake Chelan AVAs, the bedrock is silica-rich sedimentary rock. This type of bedrock soil is unique, as most of the surrounding vineyard areas are composed of basalt bedrock.
  • Climate: The deep canyon of the Rocky Reach AVA sits at an elevation that is considerably lower than the surrounding areas. As such, the area within the AVA is significantly warmer, resulting in a longer growing season than the surrounding areas.

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

At the time of the proposal, there were 7 commercial vineyards within the area defined by the Rocky Reach AVA with a total of 117 acres planted to vine. Cabernet Sauvignon is the leading grape variety.

The name Rocky Reach has been applied to this section of the Columbia River since the 1800s. In those days, steamboat captains used the term to describe the 8-mile-an-hour rapids that formed certain times of the year. Successful navigation of the rocky reach required staying within the deepest channel of the river to avoid the rocks just beneath the surface of the water.

Note: June 3 was a busy day for the TTB, which saw the approval of four new AVAs, including Rocky Reach. The other three include Upper Lake Valley (Lake County, CA), Mount Pisgah (Polk Country, OR), and Paulsell Valley (Stanislaus County, CA).  When all four of these AVAs are brought into force—on July 5, 2022—the total number of AVAs in the United States will be 266.

Welcome to the world, Rocky Reach AVA!

References/for more information:

• Federal Register-June 3 2022-Establishment of the Rocky Reach AVA
• Petition to Establish the Rocky Reach AVA
• Rocky Reach AVA – Washington State Wine Commission (washingtonwine.org)

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Photo via: www.abadia-retuerta.com

On May 31 (2022) the Official Journal of the European Union announced the approval of a new PDO wine region for Spain: Vino de Pago Abadía Retuerta.

The newly approved appellation is located in the municipality of Sardón de Duero (Valladolid), in the autonomous community of Castilla y León. Sardón de Duero is situated just to the west of the Ribera del Duero DO. This section of the Duero River has long been considered to be an ideal area for vineyards as part of the informally recognized Milla de Oro (Golden Mile) of wine estates in the area.

The Abadía Retuerta estate is built on the site of the Abbey of Santa María de Retuerta— founded in 1146 by Sancho Ansúrez near the banks of the Duero River. Some parts of the original structure still stand and are considered to be among the most important works of Romanesque architecture in the area.

The Abadía Retuerta estate currently includes a winery, hotel, the Santuario Wellness Spa, and several restaurants. In addition to Vino de Pago Abadía Retuerta, the estate produces a range of varietal and blended wines under the Vino la Tierra de Castilla y León appellation as well as food products such as pine nuts and honey.

The Vino de Pago Abadía Retuerta is approved for dry red wines (monovarietal or blends) produced from Petit Verdot, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Garnacha Tinta, Malbec, Merlot, Graciano, Syrah, and/or Pinot Noir. All red wines must be matured in oak barrels for at least six months. Dry white wines—monovarietal or blends—may be made with Albillo Mayor, Godello, Verdejo, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, and/or Gewürztraminer.

P.S. On this same day (May 31, 2022), the EU also announced the approval of the Vino de Pago Bolandin, located in Navarra. You can read more about the Vino de Pago Bolandin here. With the approval of these two new appellations, there are currently 24 vino de pago appellations in Spain (per the EU).

Welcome to the World, Vino de Pago Abadía Retuerta!

References/for more information:

• Extract from the EU Register-Abadia Retuerta-May 31 2022
• Product Specification Abadia Retuerta
• https://www.abadia-retuerta.com/en/home

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Photo via: pagodecirsus.com

On May 31 (2022) the Official Journal of the European Union announced the approval of a new PDO wine region for Spain: Vino de Pago Bolandin.

The newly approved appellation is located in the autonomous community of Navarra, within the municipality of Ablitas. The area is very close to the southern edge of Navarra, to the east of La Rioja and close to the border shared with Aragon. This places it within the Ribera Baja sub-region of the Navarra DO. 

The 130-hecatare/320-acre Bolandin Vineyard is part of Bodega Pago de Cirsus, which operates a winery, restaurant, and hotel on the estate. Bodega Pago de Cirsus produces a wide range of products, to include (in addition to Vino de Pago Bolandin) olive oil, white truffle oil, and table wines bottled under the DO Navarra.

The climate of the estate—which sits between the Ebro River and the Moncayo Mountains at an average elevation of 395 meters/1,295 feet above sea level—may be described as “extreme continental,” meaning it tends to experience very cold winters and hot, dry summers. The estate benefits from the Cierzo—a strong dry wind that flows to the northwest from the Ebro River Valley—as well as a series of nearby reservoirs that provide water for irrigation as needed.

The Vino de Pago Bolandin appellation is approved for dry red wines and dry white wines; the main grape varieties include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Tempranillo, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Sweet white wines—produced using late harvest (sobremadurada) Moscatel Grano Menudo (Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains) grapes and containing a minimum of 45 g/L residual sugar—are also allowed.

Welcome to the world, Vino de Pago Bolandin!

P.S. On this same day (May 31, 2022), the EU also announced the approval of the Vino de Pago Abadía Retuerta, located in Castilla y León. You can read more about the Vino de Pago Abadía Retuerta here. If we include these two newly-approved appellations, there are currently 24 vino de pago appellations in Spain (per the EU).

References/for more information:

• Pliego de Condiciones Vino de Pago Bolandin
• Vino de Pago Bolandin-Journal of the EU-May 31, 2022
• https://pagodecirsus.com/en/bodega-pago-de-cirsus/finca-bolandin.html

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Map via the TTB AVA Explorer

On May 23 (2022) the TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) of the United States announced the approval of the West Sonoma Coast American Viticultural Area (AVA). The newly minted AVA is located entirely within the existing Sonoma Coast AVA and is a sub-appellation of the larger North Coast AVA. The West Sonoma Coast AVA—which encompasses the existing Fort Ross-Seaview AVA—represents the 19^th AVA located in Sonoma County.

The West Sonoma Coast AVA hugs the coastline of Sonoma County and exhibits an overall cool, maritime climate often described as cool enough to be marginal. The AVA currently contains more than fifty commercial vineyards (totaling just over 1,000 acres) planted within five to seven miles of the Pacific Ocean. The leading grape varieties include Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Syrah.

According to the original petition to establish the AVA—originally submitted to the TTB in December of 2018 by Patrick L. Shabram on behalf of the members of the association of West Sonoma Coast Vintners—the distinguishing features of the West Sonoma Coast AVA include its topography, geology, and climate, as described below.

.

Topography: The West Sonoma Coast AVA is rugged territory, much of it defined by the steep mountains and ridgelines of the California Coast Range. The mountains in this area—often referred to as the Sonoma Coast Highlands—can reach as high as 1,000 feet/31 meters asl. Many of the vineyards are planted on the hillsides and mountain slopes, which are typically in excess of 5 degrees.

Geology: Much of the area within the West Sonoma Coast AVA consists of sedimentary bedrock and soils of the Franciscan Complex (which includes greywacke, shale, and sedimentary conglomerates). Rocks of the Franciscan Complex are not easily eroded, which contributes to the rugged ridgelines and steep slopes of the region. The soils have a high level of sand content, providing excellent drainage and low fertility.

Climate: As evidenced by its location, the West Sonoma Coast is a maritime climate highly influenced by coastal breezes, fog, and cool temperatures—much more so even than the surrounding areas including the Russian River Valley, Petaluma Gap, and the interior areas of the Sonoma Coast AVA. The West Sonoma Coast AVA is truly positioned to be a leader in cool climate viticulture!

When the West Sonoma Coast AVA comes into force on June 22 (2022), the total number of AVAs in the United States will be 262. Of these, 144 will be in California.

Welcome to the world, West Sonoma Coast AVA!

References/for more information:

• Final Rule-May 23 2022-West Sonoma Coast AVA
• Click here for a map of the vineyards of the West Sonoma Coast AVA, via the website of the West Sonoma Coast Vintners

 Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

.

Big news for lovers of all things Alsace! Two (of the 51) Grand Cru AOCs of Alsace have revised their regulations so that they now allow for the production of Alsace Grand Cru Rouge—made with 100% Pinot Noir!

Before these changes—announced via publication in the Journal Officiel de la République Française on May 13, 2022—wines of the Alsace Grands Crus were exclusively white. In addition—with very few exceptions*—only varietal wines produced from one of the noble grapes of Alsace (Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, and Muscat) were allowed to be labeled as Alsace Grand Cru AOC wines.

However, things have evolved and now Alsace Grand Cru Hengst and Alsace Grand Cru Kirchberg de Barr are approved for vins blancs et rouges tranquilles (both white and red wines, still/not sparkling). All other Grand Cru AOCs sont réservées aux vins blancs tranquilles (are reserved for still white wines).

.

Alsace Grand Cru Hengst covers 53 hectares/131 acres in an area south of the Haut-Rhin commune of Wintzenheim (near Colmar). Vines have been planted here—at altitudes of 260–350 meters/853–1,150 feet asl, along a steep hillside sloping to the southeast—since the 9^th century. The soils—consisting of clay and marl flecked with limestone—help to enable the ripening of the Pinot Noir grapes of the region, known to produce wines with silky tannins and lively flavor.

The region’s Pinot Noir vineyards must have a minimum planting density of 5,500 vines per hectare and red wines must have a minimum of 12.5% alcohol by volume. The Alsace Grand Cru Hengst AOC was first approved in 1983 for white wines; red wines will be allowed as of the release of the 2021 vintage.

.

Alsace Grand Cru Kirchberg de Barr covers 40 hectares/99 acres located on a steep hill (with an incline of almost 30°) overlooking the Bas-Rhin commune of Barr. The vineyards enjoy an ideal south/southeast aspect and an average elevation of 220–350 meters/722–1,150 feet asl. The soil consists of thick deposits of clay, limestone, and marl interspersed with gravel (that helps to retain warmth). The area has a unique sun capture and a slightly warmer temperature than surrounding areas (as the cold air flows downhill). All of this combines to create an ideal micro-climate for Pinot Noir.

The region’s Pinot Noir vineyards must have a minimum planting density of 5,000 vines per hectare and red wines must have a minimum of 12% alcohol by volume. The Alsace Grand Cru Kirchberg de Barr AOC was first approved in 1983 for white wines; red wines will be allowed as of the release of the 2021 vintage.

All wines produced under the category of Alsace Grand Cru/Rouge must adhere to the following new standards:

• They must undergo malolactic fermentation (maximum allowed malic acid content is 0.4 grams per liter)
• They must be dry (maximum allowed level of fermentable sugars is 2 grams per liter)
• They must be aged until (at least) October 1 of the year following the harvest
• As is true of all Alsace Grand Cru AOC wines, they must vintage-dated and packaged in the traditional Flûte d’Alsace bottle

Welcome to the world, Alsace Grand Cru Rouge!

As with all such updates, this change will need to wind its way through EU authorization; however, as the government of France has granted their approval, the changes will be in force (as scheduled) with the release of the wines of the 2021 vintage. If the EU fails to approve the amendment, the regulation will be rescinded (although this is quite unlikely to happen).

*Previous exceptions to the “only varietal wines made using the noble varieties” rule include Zotzenberg (approved for the use of Sylvaner) and Kaefferkopf (approved for white blends).

References/for more information:

• Journal Officiel de la Republique Francaise May 13 2022-Alsace Grand Cru AOC
• Cahier des Charges-Proposal re Alsace Grand Cru AOC (includes notations of the updates vis-à-vis the previous document)
• Vins d’Alsace—Kirchberg de Barr
• Vins d’Alsace—Hengst

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

.

On March 30 (2022), the Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité (INAO) of France published a newly approved use of the word Cru, as it applies to wine regions and wine labels. This move makes the term Cru part of the official hierarchy of wine designations.

Put simply, the term cru may now be used in conjunction with a legally-approved sub-appellation—a Dénomination Géographique Complémentaire (Complementary Geographical Denomination/DGC)—as part of the hierarchy of a wine with an Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) designation.

Only a small percentage of France’s AOCs have previously designated DCGs; some well-known examples include the Bourgogne AOC, Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine AOC, and Côtes du Rhône-Villages AOC. Under the new guidelines, the name of a wine produced from grapes grown in—for example—the La Chapelle Notre-Dame sub-appellation of the Bourgogne AOC may appear on a wine label as follows: Bourgogne–La Chapelle Notre-Dame Cru AOC.

• To use the term cru on a wine label, it must meet the following criteria:
  • The DCG must be legally designated and based on consistency of terroir (a lieu-dit)
  • The DCG must be small in total geographic area (defined as a single locality or no more than ten communes)
  • The wine is subject to a tasting panel and must be deemed to be of exceptional character
  • Approval of the INAO

As any good wine student has no doubt already noted, this may—at least initially—lend some confusion on the use of the term cru, as it is already seen in the many Premiers Crus, Grand Crus, and even the Troisièmes, Quatrièmes, and Cinquièmes Crus of the myriad wines of France.

Here’s to the new crus?

References/for more information:

• https://www.inao.gouv.fr/A-la-Une/mention-cru

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org