Category Archives: Testable Material for the CWE Exam

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And then there were 77: with the recent registration and publication of the Canelli DOCG, Italy now has 77 wines that can claim the Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) title.

The Canelli DOCG is approved for sweet, frizzante wines produced from 100% Moscato Bianco (Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains) grapes. This style of wine—produced in the larger Asti DOCG where it is known as Moscato d’Asti—is already well-known and widely popular.

The Canelli DOCG—formerly a sub-zone of the larger Asti DOCG—is the 19^th DOCG to be approved in Piedmont, cementing the area’s claim to the most DOCGs of any region of Italy. (The number two place goes to Veneto, currently home to 14 DOCGs.)

The area covered by the Canelli DOCG covers 18 communes within the provinces of Asti and Cuneo; this makes the region quite a bit smaller than the larger, surrounding Asti DOCG (which is spread over the area now covered by the Canelli DOCG as well as an additional 5 communes).  There are currently just over 40 estates eligible to produce Canelli DOCG, and it is estimated that annual production will—for the next few years—be just over 500,000 bottles. It is, however, anticipated that the establishment of the new Canelli DOCG will drive some growth in the wine’s popularity and subsequent production.

• In accordance with the regulations of the Canelli DOCG, hand harvesting is mandatory, yields are strict, and the vineyards must be planted on the area’s rolling hills at elevations between 540 feet/165 m and 1,640 feet/500 m. Other regulations governing the wines of the Canelli DOCG include the following:
  • 100% Moscato Bianco (Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains) grapes
  • Frizzante (lightly sparkling) with a maximum of 2.5 atmospheres of pressure
  • Minimum alcohol level: 4.5% by volume; maximum 6.5%

Residual sugar is not specifically mandated; however, there are standards for minimum potential alcohol at harvest (11.0%) and maximum abv in the finished product. As a result, the average wine will contain approximately 8% residual sugar.

Sounds delicious…welcome to the world, Canelli DOCG!

References/for more information:

• Disciplinare-Canelli DOCG-in Italian
• Canelli DOCG registration-EU Official Journal-June 2023

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

The Cariñena Denominación de Origen (DO Cariñena) is a well-established wine region located along the Heurva River in Aragón (an autonomous community in northeastern Spain). Originally established in 1932, the DO Cariñena produces a range of wine styles—including tinto, blanco, and rosado in versions from dry-to-sweet; plus sparkling wine, semi-sparkling wine (vino de aguja), and fortified wine (vino de licor).

All of these wines are allowed to be produced using a long list of grapes, sorted into those considered “principal“ and those considered “secondary.”  In order to use the label term “Superior,” the wine must contain a minimum of 85% principal grape varieties (variedades de uva principales). It comes as no surprise that Cariñena is listed among the appellation’s principal grape varieties.

Cariñena—a vigorous, high-tannin red variety—is a grape of many names; in France, it is known as Carignan; in Catalonia, it is known as Samsó; and much of the world knows it as Mazuelo. It is believed that Mazuelo was the original name, derived from the town of Mazuelo de Muñó (located in Burgos [Castilla y León]). It is further believed that the locally preferred name Cariñena derives from the town of the same name (one of the 16 towns of the Zaragoza Province included within the confines of the DO).

The white mutation of the grape—redolent with citrus aromas and often used in white blends—is known across Spain as Cariñena Blanca, Mazuelo Blanco, or Samsó Blanco. As it stands to reason, in France it goes by Carignan Blanc. Loyal readers of this blog might recall that Cariñena Blanca was only quite recently added to the official list of approved varieties in Spain, and that the Empordà DO was the first appellation to allow its use in the PDO wines of the region. (At the time, I received many comments relating that it seemed odd that it was not year approved in the Cariñena DO—agreed!)

However, it seems that the Cariñena DO has come around and—as of February of 2023—Cariñena Blanca has been approved for use (as a secondary variety) in the white wines and sparkling wines of the appellation (fortified wines must be produced solely from principal varieties).

It is believed that viticulture in Aragón began in the area near the town of Cariñena. The area was formerly a Roman town known as Carae, whose inhabitants of Carae were known to have enjoyed a locally produced wine mixed with home as far back as the third century BCE. Documentation concerning planting restrictions on vineyards dates back to 1696.

The Cariñena DO contains a diverse range of soil types and is characterized by low rainfall, extreme temperatures, and a strong, dry, northerly wind known as the cierzo.

Note: The complete list of principal grape varieties of the DO Cariñena includes the following grapes in addition to Cariñena: Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha Tinta, Merlot, Syrah, Tempranillo, Chardonnay, Garnacha Blanca, and Macabeo. The list of secondary varieties includes the following (in addition to Cariñena Blanca): Juan Ibáñez (Moristel), Monastrell (Mourvèdre), Vidadillo (Vidalillo de Almonacid), Muscat of Alexandria (Moscatel de Alejandría), Parellada, Sauvignon Blanc, and Verdejo.

References/for more information:

• EU Journal regarding Carinena DO 2023
• Pliego de condiciones Cariñena DO updated 2023
• The Cierzo Wind— https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cierzo

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

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News flash from Spain: After previous approval by the Government of Andalucía (Junta de Andalucía), the Spanish Ministry of Agriculture (Ministerio de Agricultura, Pesca y Alimentación) has published a new-and-revised Pliego de Condiciones for the Jerez-Xérès-Sherry DO. While these changes represent some significant updates to the time-honored production requirements of Sherry, they do not encompass all of the changes that were expected; other updates are still awaiting approval.

The changes to the Jerez-Xérès-Sherry DO include the following:

New grapes allowed: In addition to the traditional three varieties (Palomino, Pedro Ximénez, and Moscatel de Alejandría), the following grape varieties are now approved for use in Sherry: Beba, Perruno, and Vigiriega. These grapes were common to the region prior to phylloxera.

Introducing…Fino Viejo: Fino Viejo is a new category of wine, representing biologically aged wines with an average of seven years of solera aging; these wines must show substantial oxidative character.

Minimum sugar levels have been lowered: The minimum required sugar content has been lowered (from 5 grams per liter) to 4 g/L.

Official sub-zones have been listed: Sub-zones, referred to as Pagos or Unidades Geográficas Menores de la Zona Delimitada (minor geographic units of the delimited zone) have been defined. There are over 100 pagos currently so designated. Click here for a list and a map of the pagos, via the website of the consejo regulador.

Note: As with all such updates, this change will need to wind its way through EU authorization; however, as the government of Spain has granted their approval, the changes are considered to be in force. If the EU fails to approve the amendment, the regulation will be rescinded.

References/for more information:

• Pliego de Condicones Jerez-Xerez-Sherry updated March 2023

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

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News flash from the Government of Andalucía (Junta de Andalucía), the Spanish Ministry of Agriculture (Ministerio de Agricultura, Pesca y Alimentación), and the European Commission: some substantial updates have been made to the rules and regulations regarding the Manzanilla Sanlúcar de Barrameda DO.

These changes relate to the widely reported and much-anticipated revisions that are underway for the larger Jerez-Xérès-Sherry DO. However, these updates—concerning Manzanilla—stand on their own. (For the record, the expected updates to the Jerez-Xérès-Sherry DO are still awaiting publication on the website of the Ministerio de Agricultura, Pesca y Alimentación and approval of the EU/European Commission.)

The substantive changes to the Manzanilla Sanlúcar de Barrameda DO include the following:

• The name “Manzanilla/Manzanilla DO” is added as a protected term—equivalent to the still-applicable “Manzanilla Sanlúcar de Barrameda DO”.
• The minimum required sugar content has been lowered (from 5 grams per liter) to 4 g/L.
• The requirement for Manzanilla products to be fortified (vinos generosos) remains; however, the language has been updated to reflect the term fortificación, rather than the archaic term encabezado (as used previously).
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  Map of the Jerez-Xérès-Sherry DO and Manzanilla DO via https://www.sherry.wine

  A minimum 7-year oak aging period has been specified for Manzanilla Pasada (this replaces the much less specific requirement for prolonged maturing).

• Palomino (aka Palomino Fino or Listán Blanco) is the only grape now allowed for use in Manzanilla DO. (This means that Pedro Ximenez and Moscatel are no longer approved.)
• The new document confirms the standard that grapes used in the production of Manzanilla DO may be grown anywhere within the confines of the Jerez-Xérès-Sherry DO, but specifies that the product must be aged (in oak barrels for at least two years) within the confines of the municipality of Sanlúcar de Barrameda.

The location of Sanlúcar de Barrameda—on the Atlantic coast and adjacent to the Guadalquivir River—provides an ideal (warm and humid) environment for intense flor yeast activity. As stated on the updated pliego de condiciones for the Manzanilla DO, la proximité de la mer et le niveau élevé d’humidité favorisent une activité intense et prolongée de la levure, qui confère au vin Manzanilla des caractéristiques particulières. (“The proximity to the sea and the high humidity are conducive to intense yeast activity over a long period of time, giving Manzanilla wines their unique characteristics.”)

References/for more information:

• EU Journal-Manzanilla Updates March 2023
• Pliego de Condiciones Manzanilla DO-updated 2022

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

Now—as of December 2022—it seems like the grape modifications are marching onward, as three appellations located on Bordeaux’s Left Bank—Médoc AOC, Haut-Médoc AOC and Listrac-Médoc AOC—have embraced the changes as well.

These three appellations are all approved for red wines only (although there are rumors that the Médoc AOC may soon adopt the production of white wines). As such, the classic list of red Bordeaux grapes in these appellations—Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Merlot, Petite Verdot, and  Carmenère—has been supplanted with Arinarnoa, Castets, Marselan, and Touriga Nacional.

As is true with the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur AOCs, the new grapes are allowed to comprise a maximum of 5% of the vineyard area of any estate and no more than 10% of the final blend of any wine. Besides these limitations (and the still-concise list of approved grapes), the wines of all three appellations—Médoc AOC, Haut-Médoc AOC and Listrac-Médoc AOC—have no other rules concerning the number (or amounts) of grapes in the blend.

Stay tuned! More changes are in the works.

Note: As with all such updates, this change will need to wind its way through EU authorization; however, as the government of France has granted their approval, the changes are considered to be in force. If the EU fails to approve the amendment, the regulation will be rescinded.

References/for more information:

• Cahier des Charges Medoc AOC-Dec 2022
• Cahier des Charges Haut-Medoc AOC-Dec 2022
• Cahier des Charges Listrac-Medoc AOC-Dec 2022

The rumors have been circulating for more than a year, and as of December 10 (2022) it’s official: a glass of Voltis (or at least a bit of Voltis in your Champagne) might be in your future.

Back in August of 2021, the Growers’ Association in Champagne (Syndicat Général des Vignerons de la Champagne, or SGV) voted to allow limited plantings of the Voltis grape variety—a fungus-resistant, interspecific hybrid grape variety—for use in the wines of the Champagne AOC. As of November of 2022, the proposal was approved by France’s Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité (INAO), and the newly revised Cahier des Charges was published in the Journal Officiel de la République Française (Official Journal of the French Republic) on December 10, 2022.

Voltis contains DNA from Vitis vinifera, Vitis berlandieri, Vitis rupestris, and Vitis muscadinia. It was created via a collaboration between the INAO (Montpellier, France) and the Julius Kühn Institute (Siebeldingen, Germany). Classified as a fungus resistant PIWI variety (Pi = Pilz [fungus]; wi = widerstandsfähig [resistant]), Voltis is believed to be entirely resistant to powdery mildew and highly resistant to downy mildew.

Voltis is the first interspecific fungus resistant grape to be allowed for use in a French appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC) product, and just the second hybrid grape so allowed—after Baco Blanc (Baco 22A), which is allowed for use in the brandies of the Armagnac AOC. The Voltis grape is part of a group of experimental grapes being reviewed throughout France as d’intérêt à fin d’adaptation (“of interest for the purpose of adaptation”) that are intended to allow for the expansion of organic viticulture (based on reduced need for chemical herbicides and fungicides) and to respond to the challenges of climate change.

Voltis produces medium-sized and moderately compact bunches. The berries are medium-sized, thick-skinned, and somewhat neutral in flavor.

For the time being, Voltis will be allowed in the wines of the Champagne AOC on a ten-year trial basis. Voltis may comprise no more than 5% of the vineyard area of any estate. This update follows on the heels of a similar change recently seen in Bordeaux. 

Cheers to Voltis!

Note: As with all such updates, this change will need to wind its way through EU authorization; however, as the government of France has granted their approval, the changes are considered to be in force. If the EU fails to approve the amendment, the regulation will be rescinded.

References/for more information:

• CDC_Champagne updated with Voltis
• The Voltis Grape on the Catalogue des vignes cultivées en France
• The Voltis Grape (on the PIWI International website)

Post authored by Jane A. Nickles…your blog administrator: jnickles@societyofwineeducators.org

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Gigondas—located just to the north of Vacquerayas and Beames-de-Venise in France’s Southern Rhône Valley—has historically been known for its cathartic waters (Eau Purgative de Montmirail), its dramatic location at the foot of the jagged mountains of the Dentelles de Montmirail, and its rustic wines (red and rosé) based on Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre.

All of this remains true, but as of the 2023 vintage, Gigondas can boast another claim to fame: white wines! The newly approved Gigondas Blanc designation applies to dry white wines based on the Clairette Blanc grape variety.

• The regulations regarding these wines include the following:
  • Principal grape (cépage principal): Clairette Blanc must comprise a minimum of 70% of the blend (many wines may be 100% Clairette)
  • Complementary grapes (cépages complémentaires): Bourboulenc, Clairette Rose, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, blanc and gris, Marsanne, Piquepoul, and/or Roussanne may be included up to a maximum of 30% (combined)
  • Accessory grapes (cépages accessoires): Viognier and/or Ugni Blanc may be included up to a maximum of 5% (combined)
  • Minimum of 12% abv
  • Maximum of 3 g/L (approximately 0.3%) residual sugar

Map of the Gigondas AOC via the INAO (click to enlarge)

White grapes have been grown in Gigondas since antiquity.  However, when the original AOC for the region was granted back in 1971, it applied to red and rosé wines only. This meant that any white wine produced from grapes grown in the area would have to be labeled under a more generic appellation, such as the Côtes du Rhône AOC, Côtes du Rhône-Villages AOC, or the Vin de Pays (IGP) Vaucluse.

It is estimated that the region currently has about 16 ha/40 acres dedicated to white grapes, spread out over about 30 different owners. This is certainly a drop-in-the-bucket compared to the region’s 1,180 hectares/2,900 acres of red grapes. However, it is believed that amount of white wine made in the region may soon overshadow the region’s rosé, which currently accounts for a mere 1% of the total production.

The updated Cahier des Charges for the Gigondas AOC was published in the Journal Officiel de la République Française (Official Journal of the Republic of France) on September 23, 2022. Welcome to the world, Gigondas Blanc!

References/for more information:

• https://www.gigondas-vin.com/en/2022/09/15/the-gigondas-appellation-now-applies-to-white-wines/
• Cahier des Charges Gigondas AOC-September 2022
• Avis relatif à l’ouverture d’une procédure nationale d’opposition pour la demande de modification du cahier des charges relatif à l’appellation d’origine contrôlée « Gigondas » – Légifrance (legifrance.gouv.fr)